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Results for Caliber 9SA5

633 articles · 2,305 videos found · page 24 of 98

Hamilton Ventura and Elvis: A Comprehensive Guide and History Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Jan 30, 2024

Hamilton Ventura and Elvis: A Comprehensive Guide and History

One of the most enduring associations between a world-famous star and a legendary timepiece is the one between Elvis Presley and the world's first electric watch, the Hamilton Ventura. A bold horological gamble when it debuted in 1957, the Ventura is now a mainstay of Hamilton's sprawling portfolio of watch families, and the influence of the King of Rock 'n' Roll on its modern incarnations continues to this day. Read on to discover more about the Ventura and the musical icon who made it famous. Origins: The World’s First Electronic Watch (1957) Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, during an era in which the United States was a world leader in timepiece production, the Hamilton Watch Company has played a key role in American watchmaking and innovation throughout the 19th and 20th Centuries - even though the company itself migrated its production to Switzerland in 1969 and became part of the Swiss Swatch Group in 1984. By the early 1950s, Hamilton joined other watchmakers, in the United States and around the world, in the quest to conquer the newest frontier of portable timekeeping – making a wristwatch with a fully electric movement.  It was Hamilton’s U.S.-based competitor, Elgin, which originally took the lead in such a project, along with the family-owned French watchmaker Lip. Elgin’s “Watch of Tomorrow,” which was unveiled as a prototype in Chicago on March 19, 1952, was powered by Caliber 725, a movement with no mainspring or winding mechani...

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eBay Finds: A Classic Zodiac Sports Watch, an Affordable Seiko 5, and a Rare Favre-Leuba with the Full Kit Worn & Wound
Zodiac Sports Watch Jan 19, 2024

eBay Finds: A Classic Zodiac Sports Watch, an Affordable Seiko 5, and a Rare Favre-Leuba with the Full Kit

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Zodiac Aerospace GMT Starting this week off with a killer vintage Zodiac Aerospace GMT. Zodiac is definitely well known for their Sea Wolf divers, but the lesser-known Aerospace is a fantastic piece. It features a two-tone black and gray 24 hour acrylic bezel insert that is in great condition. The gloss black dial is crisp and clean, as are the steel stick hands. The GMT hand is painted red to stand out. The original crown is signed with the Zodiac symbol as it should be. The Zodiac caliber 75 automatic movement is clean and the seller states it currently runs well and keeps time. The watch comes on a cool vintage riveted oyster style bracelet that looks great with the watch even though it’s not original. View auction here Vintage 1953 Bulova Next up is a brilliant vintage Bulova dress watch with fancy lugs. The 27mm wide yellow gold fill case is excellent with no wearthrough that I can see in the pictures. The fancy lugs have a knotted look and are really unique and cool. The dial is the classic butler silver color with applied arrows and Arabic numerals and a sub-seconds at 6 o’clock. The dial looks original to me and is in excellent condition, paired with the original gold daup...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances Jan 15, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates

Many in the watch community are predicting that 2024 will be year where we see a wider adoption of avant-garde and modern design as the pendulum continues to swing away from vintage inspired classicism. This is a good thing, and worth celebrating. But there will always be a market for elegant, classic designs. The kind that have been nailed down and perfect for decades, and define the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mentality. There isn’t a brand out there that is more in tune with this style of watchmaking than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Similar to Rolex, they iterate slowly, and don’t adhere to the (false) notion that buzzy new releases are required as part of an industry cycle. They just kind of do their thing, and it almost always results in a beautiful object. Their latest, the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, is familiar in many ways but has several small changes that make it even more refined.  Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra thin watches are a niche of a niche unto themselves. For years, even before the current Thinness Wars really took shape, JLC has been adept at getting the best possible performance from impossibly thin movements, and taking advantage of their diminutive dimensions by housing them in exceedingly well designed watches that take full advantage of their size. For the new Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, JLC’s Caliber 938 has been reworked slightly to increase the total power reserve to a healthy 70 hours without drastically changing the movement...

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21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 1, 2024

21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026

The definition of an everyday watch can, of course, be highly subjective, based on one’s individual needs, tastes, and budget (I have met people who rock A. Lange & Söhne, F.P. Journe, and even Richard Mille as their “everyday” brands). But most of us can get behind Teddy’s idea that an everyday watch is one that combines versatility with specifications suited for day-to-day needs; it can be dressed up or down, is highly legible in most conditions, and is water resistant enough for worry-free daily wear (i.e., rated to at least 50 meters). As a timepiece that will spend much more time actually on the wrist than in a safe, it should also be affordable. Hence, our selection of the 21 best everyday watches starts under $500 and tops out under $10,000. Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the recently introduced NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish: blue, yellow, green, turquoise, and black. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for...

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Dec 21, 2023

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today.  1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...

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Breitling Unveils a New Capsule Collection of SuperOcean Divers Inspired by the Scottish Highlands Worn & Wound
Breitling Unveils Dec 14, 2023

Breitling Unveils a New Capsule Collection of SuperOcean Divers Inspired by the Scottish Highlands

In 2020 Breitling presented their throwbackiest watch to date. Yes, I made up that word. From its distinct concave bezel to its form fitting mesh bracelet, the SuperOcean Heritage ‘57 very much looked the part, yet had a very contemporary sizing of 42mm. Since then, this watch has been offered in multiple color variants, which included a very impressive rainbow colorway that featured a black dial and multicolored hands and indices.  Being so wildly different from their other SuperOcean models, including the standard Heritage line, I do not believe it got the attention it deserved. Despite being 42mm, the Heritage ‘57 was only 9.9mm thick. Its profile was impressive, and the lug thickness matched the bracelet thickness perfectly. It must have been a joy to wear.  Breitling is now introducing four new versions of the Heritage ‘57 dubbed the Highlands Capsule Collection. These new pieces have been downsized to more traditional vintage proportions and many will be jumping for joy at the 38mm diameter and short 42mm lug to lug length, making this one truly unisex. Somehow, they have even managed to shrink the thickness down to only 9.35mm and maintain the 100m of water-resistance. Inspired by the Scottish Highlands, there are four land-and-sea inspired dial colors available: beige, green, mustard, and blue. They all feature stainless steel cases and scratch-resistant ceramic bezels rimmed in 18k red gold. Powering these watches will be the Breitling Caliber 10 (a modifi...

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12 Yellow-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 8, 2023

12 Yellow-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury

Yellow is a color meant to draw attention: there’s a reason it’s used in road signs, stoplights, and to highlight important text passages. When yellow is used on a watch dial, you can usually be sure that it’s a watch that is meant to be anything but understated and subtle - whether the tone is a bright, matte “signal” yellow or a more elegant, shiny-surfaced gold or champagne tone. Here are a dozen yellow-dialed watches that span the gamut from sporty to luxurious - and from affordable and easily accessible to expensive and ultra-exclusive.  Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish, including the standout yellow version above. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for better ergonomics on the wrist. The bracelet has what Citizen describes as a “mountain-shaped” design thanks to its individually curved links; the center links and the bezel are both sleekly polished. The self-winding...

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Maurice de Mauriac Sees Red with the New L1 Red Lightning Worn & Wound
Nov 22, 2023

Maurice de Mauriac Sees Red with the New L1 Red Lightning

They say lightning doesn’t strike twice – but what about Red Lightning? Zurich-based Maurice de Mauriac has once again ignited the horological scene with their latest creation, the L1 Red Lightning. Known for being the choice of creatives worldwide, the brand has reimagined their L1 series with a red makeover that makes a bold statement. While the L1 Red Lightning’s predecessors were known for their clean aesthetic and a more pure design, this new iteration of the classic has just a bit of rock ‘n roll infused into it. In fact, it was Swiss musician, Crime, who first gave inspiration to Maurice de Mauriac for the vibrant change to the L1. And now, everyone can enjoy the bold addition to their line-up.  While the red dial might be the most obvious feature of this watch, let’s not forget about the broad appeal that Maurice de Mauriac has in the market. The L1 Red Lightning boasts a stainless steel case with a black DLC coating, providing a sleek and durable exterior. The visible back and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides showcase the meticulous craftsmanship. With a diameter of 39mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 46.6mm, the watch strikes a balance between presence and wearability. This L1 is powered by the automatic La Joux-Perret G100 caliber, ensuring precision with a generous power reserve of 68 hours. With a water-resistance at 10 ATM, it’ll fit into most regular-use situations (or, perhaps, a crazy night out with a Swiss pop star!)....

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The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Taps into Japanese Skateboarding Culture Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Nov 14, 2023

The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Taps into Japanese Skateboarding Culture

For those of you who only know the Tony Hawks of the world when it comes to skateboarding celebrities, might I introduce you to Yuto Horigome.  Born in Tokyo on January 7, 1999, Yuto began skateboarding at six, influenced by his father. Rising through the ranks of Japanese competitions as a teenager, he moved to the U.S. after high school and quickly excelled in Street League Skateboarding, winning three 2018 stops within a year of his debut. Horigome achieved numerous milestones, including being the first Japanese skateboarder to win the X Games in 2019 and securing the World Championship in 2021, and in 2023, he became the first Japanese skateboarder to triumph at the historic Tampa Pro contest in the United States. With a resume like this, it’s no wonder that Seiko has released their latest Seiko 5 Sport in collaboration with the skateboarding wunderkind. This automatic GMT is the perfect balance of Seiko’s trademark style with a nod to the Tokyo that Horigome-san knows and loves.  For starters, the 42.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet are coated in black which works nicely as the backdrop for the blue and purple bezel, inspired by Tokyo sunsets. The exhibition back’s Hardlex crystal is decorated with Yuto’s signature for an added personalized touch. Underneath the crystal, one can see the 4R34 caliber at work. This is a limited edition model with a limited production run of just 2,700 pieces. Each unit will be serialized, and the retail price is $520. Ava...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Worn & Wound
Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Nov 10, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M

Oris has a seriously capable modern diver on their hands with the Aquis. What’s more, they’ve created an original design that’s easily associated with the brand in the process. Oris have dabbled into more niche diver territory with things like the Aquis Depth Gauge, but never into extreme realms. Until now, that is. This year, Oris has upgraded the Aquis Pro from a 1000M diver, to a 4000M diver. The change doesn’t make much practical difference for most of us, but adds a heap of bragging rights to the Aquis name as it joins some elite company in the world of ultra-deep divers. The new Aquis Pro is a statement from Oris, and places the watch within a unique niche of the dive acth genre in the process.  Ultra deep dive watches are a strange breed. Not only are they tricky to design and build, they’re also quite hard to pressure test properly without highly specialized equipment. We’ve seen brands go as far as building their own apparatus to validate depth ratings, particularly as they go beyond 3,000 meters, or 10,000 feet. In the case of the deepest divers, like the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep and the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, which both go well beyond 10,000 meters, or 30,000 feet, pressure testing is rigorous and complex, and can even involve real world validation strapped to the exterior of vessels traveling to the depths of the sea. $6200 [VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Case Titanium Movement Oris caliber 400 Dial Blue wave degrade L...

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MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator Worn & Wound
Maen Oct 9, 2023

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator

MAEN Watches has relaunched their vintage inspired Skymaster 38 chronograph over the weekend, adding three new updated references to the collection, including a surprising limited edition. The Skymaster feels like a watch right in MAEN’s wheelhouse: a sports watch with an aesthetic that’s clearly inspired by the past, but executed at an incredibly high level with a surprising level of detail, all at a price point that makes these watches tough to ignore. I spent some time recently with MAEN’s Brooklyn 36 reference, an old school triple calendar, and was pleasantly surprised at the level of refinement on a watch that comes in at well under $1,000. The Skymaster, now in a MKIII version, contains many similar small details. There are two big changes with this third edition of the Skymaster 38. First, the watch now runs on the new Sellita SW510Mb manually wound movement, and the case has gone through a series of little adjustments to properly house it. Previous versions of the Skymaster used automatic movements, so the inclusion of a manually wound caliber here represents a significant change, and really plays into the heritage angle of a release like this.  Secondly, in addition to offering a 12 hour bezel, MAEN is now making the Skymaster with an optional tachymeter bezel as well. The more prominent tachymeter bezel changes the appearance of the Skymaster dramatically, and should prove popular with collectors who are after a more traditionally styled racing chronograp...

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Oris Introduces a New Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph with Major Case Refinements Worn & Wound
Oris Introduces Sep 19, 2023

Oris Introduces a New Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph with Major Case Refinements

As the wave of vintage-inspired watches stretches into its second decade, it’s easy to forget who was at the forefront. Among them was Oris and its Divers Sixty-Five, a collection that has grown to encompass myriad configurations. Customers are spoiled for choice with steel, bronze, and two tone watches in various sizes and with dials ranging from demure to outright fun. Up until 2019 (not counting the Brashear limited edition a year earlier), the Divers Sixty-Five had always been just that: a diver. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph has always been quietly competent, but today Oris updates the model. Spoiler: there’s a lot to like. First and foremost, Oris has massaged the case to 40mm, a more palatable size for the mainstream with finer proportions. Thickness is down from 17mm(!) to a more manageable 15.4mm. Gone also are the overtly vintage accents on the bezel edge and throughout the dial. You won’t find any fauxtina lume or gilt text here. Instead, what we have is a truly monochromatic dial and bezel layout. One gets the impression that this is a more serious, if somewhat austere, watch with its foot firmly planted in the modern era. What hasn’t changed is what’s inside: behind the sapphire exhibition caseback beats Oris’ caliber 771 (Sellita 510 base) providing 48-hours of power with automatic and manual winding. You have central chronograph seconds, continuously running seconds at nine o-clock, and a thirty minute counter at three. Water resistance...

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Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Rado Brings their Ongoing Work Sep 18, 2023

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions

When two masters in their respective industry collide, something magic is sure to happen. That’s exactly the feeling one gets when looking at Rado, the Master of Materials, and Le Corbusier, the master of design, as the two legacies meld into a release of new references. Adding three new colorways selected from the 63-shade Architectural Polychromy palette to the distinct True Square collection, we’re seeing a heightened look at craftsmanship and design that shows the sum is often greater than its parts. Rado has long had a relationship with the Foundation Le Corbusier for their True Thinline set of watches, but these three new releases from the brand are the first to utilize the sportier design of the True Square silhouette. This design is marked by a high-tech ceramic case coming in at a comfortable and discreet 37 x 43.3 mm, perfect for nearly any wrist size. The real beauty of this watch is the balance of technical precision and everyday use, mixing a Rado caliber R420 quartz movement with high-tech innovative ceramic that Rado has become known for within the industry. For the three colorways themselves, each taken from the Architectural Polychromy, they’re a sleek and subtle scheme that fits perfectly against the backdrop of both Le Corbusier’s and Rado’s Swiss heritage. This collection includes Natural Umber, Iron Grey, and Ivory Black. The use of ceramic perfectly matches the tonal qualities of these three references, as Rado has perfected color blending w...

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21 Best Tissot Watches for Men, from Under $600 to $2,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Aug 20, 2023

21 Best Tissot Watches for Men, from Under $600 to $2,000

Founded in 1853 by the father-son team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, Tissot is today one of the largest Swiss watchmakers in the world, with a versatile and varied collection of timepieces for men and women, from dressy to sporty to high-tech, all offering one of the industry’s best value propositions across the board (every watch we showcase here comes in under $2,000). With such a breadth of options, it's difficult to compile a list of the standouts, but for this (admittedly very subjective) compilation of the 21 best Tissot watches we strove to include just about all of Tissot's major collections, with an emphasis on men's watches with mechanical movements, particularly spotlighting the variations on the proprietary Powermatic Caliber 80. (For those who find themselves enthralled by one or more particular models on this list, most are available right here at TeddyBaldassarre.com; just follow the shopping links.) TISSOT SEASTAR Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 Price: $1,075, Case size: 46mm, Thickness: 16.3mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 600 meters, Movement: Automatic Powermatic 80.111 Tissot's ruggedly attractive Seastar family of dive watches, which debuted in the 1960s, welcomed its most robustly engineered member in 2021. The ISO-certified Seastar 2000 entices deep-sea enthusiasts with its integrated helium release valve at 9 o’clock, unidirectional dive-scale bezel with en...

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The Latest King Seiko Limited Edition Calls on Japanese Craft Traditions for Inspiration Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko challenged one another while Aug 16, 2023

The Latest King Seiko Limited Edition Calls on Japanese Craft Traditions for Inspiration

Some things are as sure as the rising sun, and in the Land of the Rising Sun, that means nature-inspired dials from Seiko…King Seiko, to be exact. As friendly divisional rivals in the 60s and early 70s, the workshops of King Seiko and Grand Seiko challenged one another while pushing the technical and aesthetic envelope of Japanese watchmaking. While some consider GS victorious as the KS name was sunsetted in 1975, the reality is that both were instrumental in establishing Seiko’s mid-century identity. More recently, Grand Seiko has spun off as a high-end, independent brand, and the King Seiko nameplate was rebooted in February of last year as a more premium offering within Seiko. Today, we take a look at a watch that isn’t entirely new yet brings an interesting flourish to the recently resurrected collection. The SJE095’s specifications are reasonable for the average wrist: 38.6mm x 45.8mm x 10.7mm, 5 bar water resistance, and powered by in-house caliber 6L35 (28,800 vph, 45 hour power reserve, +15/-10s a day) with a date complication and boxed sapphire crystal. Like the other SJE and SPB-reference King Seikos, it features a striking stainless steel case, sharp angles, and expansive flat surfaces, attributes of the original 1965 KSK on which the entire modern KS line is based. This new dial features a self-repeating pattern of circles and fine lines known as kiku tsunagi-mon. This particular design holds special significance in Japanese culture for several reasons....

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Tissot Adds New Dial Options to their 35mm PRX Powermatic 80 Collection Worn & Wound
Tissot Adds New Dial Options Aug 8, 2023

Tissot Adds New Dial Options to their 35mm PRX Powermatic 80 Collection

In a move that’s sure to excite watch enthusiasts, Tissot is adding two new colors to the celebrated PRX Powermatic 80 35mm: fan-favorite Ice Blue and a PVD Gold. The PRX landscape has never looked more diverse, and those who prefer an automatic movement in the more approachable size can now choose between six flavors: Black, Green, Blue, White Mother of Pearl, Ice Blue, and Gold. It’s hard to believe that it has already been two years since Tissot reintroduced the PRX, a watch with origins from 1978. With its angular case and integrated bracelet, it’s right on trend and has been a calling card for those looking to get into the integrated sports watch game without selling a kidney. Over time, the lineup has grown to include quartz and automatic watches in both 40mm and 35mm. By gradually adding size, color, movement options, and even a chronograph, Tissot has earned its place on the shortlist for affordable yet satisfying sport watches. These new PRX 35mm watches are powered by Tissot’s Powermatic 80. Based on the ETA 2824-2 caliber, the Powermatic’s improved spring barrel efficiency and lower beat rate of 3Hz allow for an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. Unlike their 40mm counterparts, however, the new 35mm PRX watches boast near-universal wearability. This is largely attributed to the way the first bracelet link extends as it meets the case. A 6mm reduction in lug-to-lug distance from 51mm to just under 45mm (44.9mm to be exact) makes this a completely dif...

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Doxa Sub Review: The Iconic Dive Watch You Should Know More About Teddy Baldassarre
Doxa Aug 4, 2023

Doxa Sub Review: The Iconic Dive Watch You Should Know More About

If you're seriously into dive watches, you probably know that the Doxa SUB is one of the most important and influential members of that popular genre, but if your interest in underwater timepieces and their history is more casual, you may not be aware of Doxa's unique spot in that pantheon of pioneers that includes household names like the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Here is a brief history of the Doxa SUB and a rundown of where the watch renowned for bringing orange dials to the watch world stands today.  Bound for Glory Doxa founder Georges Ducommon, a native of the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle and one of his family’s 13 children, came to watchmaking early in life. He began an apprenticeship with an established local watchmaker in 1880, and within less than a decade had developed the skills, creativity, and resolute confidence to start his own business. He founded Doxa in 1889, naming it after a Greek word meaning “glory,” a bold harbinger of the successful future Ducommon envisioned for his brand. That success came in fairly short order, with Doxa pocket watches winning accolades at World’s Fairs in Belgium, in 1905, and in Italy, in 1906. With automobile racing becoming a popular pursuit in the early part of the 20th century, Ducommon filed a patent in 1907 for a caliber with an eight-day power reserve, which became standard equipment in the dashboard clocks of Bugatti race cars. After Georges Ducommon’s death in 1936, Do...

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The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Nomos Gets Aug 4, 2023

The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors

Any watch enthusiast who has been around the corner once or twice has no doubt discovered Nomos, Germany’s worst-kept secret in distinctive design and excellent quality and finishing for its price. Nomos’ unapologetically Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic may not be for everyone, but it’s easy to admire how far this Glashütte-based watchmaker has come in just over three decades. Today we look at the Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38, a watch that is new inside and out. The Ahoi is the sportiest line in the catalog, which admittedly isn’t saying much. But it does have crown guards and 200m of water resistance, considered by Nomos as “suitable for diving.” To that end, the winding stem features a red ring that is only visible when the crown is unscrewed, a reminder that full water resistance is only guaranteed when the crown is entirely secure. The case is pleasantly thin at 9.9mm thanks to a new movement – more on that in a moment. And the lug-to-lug distance has been reduced to 48.7mm, compared to 51mm on the standard Ahoi. Other nice details include a contrasting orange second hand, double-sided anti-reflective coating on the domed crystal, and a waterproof textile strap suitable for diving. Inside, the new Ahoi is powered by the DUW 6101 for the first time. Developed by Nomos and introduced in 2018 with the Neomatik line, this caliber is both beauty and brains. The rotor and bridges get some love with ribbing polish and perlage, and the movement utilizes Nomos’ re-imagine...

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Bulova Relaunches the Jet Star, with their High Frequency Precisionist Movement, in Three Striking Dial Variants Worn & Wound
Bulova Relaunches Jul 20, 2023

Bulova Relaunches the Jet Star, with their High Frequency Precisionist Movement, in Three Striking Dial Variants

Good design always comes back in cycles. Whether it’s the revival of midcentury furniture or Neoclassical architecture, there’s an undeniable truth when it comes to design: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.  Watch brands are surprisingly good at acknowledging – even celebrating – past designs, only making small updates for better performance or tweaking the finer details to refine the overall product. Bulova’s release of their reimagined Jet Star is one such example of this. Taking inspiration from the archival 1970’s Jet Star, the new Bulova 1973 Jet Star has made incremental updates to the overall design, preserving what works and making small improvements along the way. The stainless steel case remains as angular and interesting to the eye as the original, but has since been updated with a trio of colorways for a variety of options. Customers can now choose between a sporty steel timepiece with red and blue accents, a gold-toned Jet Star with rich brown and gold tones, or a not-so-subtle red and steel model. While the aesthetic of the watch could be right out of the 70’s, the internals of this watch are anything but retro. Utilizing a Precisionist movement, this quartz caliber vibrates at a remarkable 262kHz, making for a gorgeously smooth second hand that sweeps across the dial, similar to a mechanical watch. This unparalleled accuracy punches well above the weight class and price point of the Jet Star. Each of the three references in this collection ...

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Seiko dive back into 1965 (and 2017) with the SJE093 Time+Tide
Seiko dive back into 1965 Jul 10, 2023

Seiko dive back into 1965 (and 2017) with the SJE093

The Seiko SJE093 is a faithful recreation of the 62MAS from 1965. It can be seen as an updated version of the SLA017 from 2017 with a more accurate case size. The 6L37 movement introduces Seiko’s new range of slimline calibers. To say that Seiko can sometimes be predictable would be a fair statement, as … ContinuedThe post Seiko dive back into 1965 (and 2017) with the SJE093 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Seiko Announces Jul 5, 2023

Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch

How many times can you go back to the well? If you’re Seiko, and the well is the 62MAS, the answer, apparently, is as many times as you’d like. Or, six. By my rough count, that’s how many re-editions of the historically important Seiko diver we’ve seen since 2017, when they began to really lean into the iconography of their first professional dive watch with the SLA017 along with the SPB051, setting a template for both limited edition, higher priced versions of the 62MAS reedition for collectors, and a more value oriented approach for everyday watch enthusiasts, an approach that was arguably perfected with the SPB143 and its many, many variants. Now, just announced, Seiko has revealed a new re-edition of the 62MAS that might be the closest yet to the aesthetic of the original, with a higher end movement that brings the watch into luxury territory.  The headline here is that the case size of the new SJE093 is the closest approximation yet to the original watch from 1965. It gets the diameter exactly right at 38mm, and, crucially, comes in at just 12.5mm thick. Those are nearly identical measurements to the original 62MAS, and a whole lot more slender than the reissues, and it’s thanks to a new caliber making its debut in this very watch.  The new caliber is the 6L37, which shares an architecture with the 6L35, but has been upgraded to be more durable and resistant to shocks. Seiko says this caliber was made expressly for divers. The “L” series movements are ...

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CronotempVs & TAG Heuer Collaborate To Celebrate 60 Years of the Carrera With New Carrera CC Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Collaborate Jul 4, 2023

CronotempVs & TAG Heuer Collaborate To Celebrate 60 Years of the Carrera With New Carrera CC

The collectors group known as CronotempVs has revealed their latest project, and it’s with none other than TAG Heuer in conjunction with the 60th anniversary of the famed Carrera chronograph. The open collaboration done with the collector community uses the modern 42mm Carrera case, and dials in plenty of special details in the process on the dial and the movement. The watch is called the Carrera CC (CronotempVs Collectors), and it takes inspiration from the 1974 Carrera ref. 1153BN, aka the ‘Yachting’ so named for the orange segments within the minute totalizer.  CronotempVs and TAG Heuer have created a fitting modern tribute to the 1153BN with the Carrera CC, incorporating the same character of the original in the modern Carrera chassis. This is not the 39mm ‘glassbox’ template that we were quite fond of when we saw it in Geneva (and are currently working on our long term review), but it does bring the caliber TH20-00 into the equation via the modern Carrera case we’ve come to know and (maybe) love. This platform  captures a specific fan favorite reference and highlights its versatility, as well as the timelessness of the design language as a whole. The original 1153BN was presented in a cushion case, with a dark blue dial and orange accents, and these are the starting blocks of the Carrera CC. The contrasting chapter ring and orange accents have been put to use brilliantly here, at once honoring the original while taking it into a new direction altogether....

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Ming Updates their 37.05 Moonphase with More Lume and a Completely Reworked Dial Worn & Wound
Ming Jul 3, 2023

Ming Updates their 37.05 Moonphase with More Lume and a Completely Reworked Dial

Ming is back with an updated version of their 37.05, which you might remember was announced in late 2021 as the brand’s first watch with a moonphase complication. Ming has given the 37.05 Series 2 (which they’ve nicknamed the “Ad Astra”) a series of whimsical refinements that play on the inherent romance of a moonphase complication. Those aesthetic tweaks are, of course, uniquely Ming in nature, making use of their expanding proficiency with a variety of materials, and a rather ingenious use of high powered luminescent material.  You’ll immediately notice that the big change to the new 37.05 is with the dial. Ming has gone from a textured blue dial with a subtle moonphase indicator at the 6:00 position to an anthracite dial with prominent brushed finishing. Star shaped holes have been added to the dial, which fill in with lume as the moonphase disc rotates underneath. The 37.05 still uses a sapphire upper dial, which is where you’ll find hour markers, the moon “mask” which is used to define the phase of the moon, as well as plenty of inlaid HyCeram lume to provide a bit of a light show when fully charged. Ming notes that the stars on the sapphire upper dial have HyCeram lume applied to both the upper and lower surfaces for increased visual depth.  The 37.05 Series 2 is powered by the manually wound Sellita SW288-1, which is the same caliber used in the prior moonphase, and has been extensively reworked and decorated in the same fashion. The bridges have b...

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eBay Finds: NOS Full Kits, Classic Divers, & Unknown Chronos Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen CASD Starting Jun 29, 2023

eBay Finds: NOS Full Kits, Classic Divers, & Unknown Chronos

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Nivada Grenchen CASD Starting this week off with a classic chrono-diver, the amazingly named Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver. I mean, could the name be any better? As great as the name is, the watch is even better. The Chronomaster is a timeless masterpiece, with simple, functional design that looks as good as it is functional. There are many different iterations of the Chronomaster, with different dials, hands and movements, but I feel this one is the best. Clean black dial with two black subdials and the broad arrow hour hand. The steel case measure about 38mm (seller doesn’t state this, but I have the same watch), and looks unpolished, with nice sharp edges on the beveled lugs. This example is powered by the buttery smooth Valjoux caliber 23 manual wind movement, which is a joy to use. The elapsed time aluminum bezel insert is in excellent condition, and the watch even comes on a Nivada signed bracelet! Seller states the watch keeps time and works properly, but there is some patina on the dial, so keep that in mind. View auction here. Hema Chronograph Another chronograph, but this one has a much bolder look to it. This circa 1960’s Hema (yeah, I’ve never heard ...

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An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch Worn & Wound
Tudor Throwback Jun 29, 2023

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch

We’ll have a lot more on our favorite lots from this year’s Only Watch sale next week, but on this day of big Tudor news, we’d be remiss not to mention their contribution to the 2023 edition of the charity auction, a solid gold chronograph inspired by their very first automatic chronograph. The Tudor Prince Chronograph One brings some luxury flair to the auction from the tool watch specialist, in a format that the brand had all but abandoned by the time they relaunched in the US over a decade ago. In addition to being a literal unique piece (as all watches in the Only Watch sale are) this one sports a new caliber that is honestly kind of hard to believe even exists in 2023.  The 12, 6, 9 chronograph display here is a familiar sight to anyone who has dabbled in enthusiast centric chronos – it’s the hallmark layout of the vaunted Valjoux 7750, an ubiquitous caliber if there ever was one, used by more brands than we can possibly count over the years, including, of course, Tudor. The Tudor Prince Chronograph line that made use of these movements as well as the earlier “Big Blocks” dating to the late 1970s have always been collector favorites, coming in a variety of colorways over the years. It differs sharply from modern Tudor chronographs that use their in-house caliber with a 3,6 9 layout that seems to beg for comparisons to the Daytona, which of course is made by Rolex, Tudor’s sister brand. Now that classic layout is back, sort of, with what Tudor describe...

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