WristBuzz
The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition Is the Weirdest One Yet, and That's the Point
Oris closes out its Muppets trilogy with The Great Gonzo, and the ProPilot X platform finally meets a character as unhinged as the watch itself
Results for Crown Guard Types
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WristBuzz
WristBuzz
Chopard's L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph Returns in Prussian Blue, Limited to 25 Pieces
The beloved vintage-inspired chronograph gets a new dial color, and it's a serious upgrade from the forest green original.
WatchRider
Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 Automatic GMT Takes On Seiko’s 5 Sports GMT
Timex has given the Deepwater Meridian 200 a new job. The 42mm diver-style watch is now an automatic GMT, with a fourth hand and a bidirectional 24-hour ceramic bezel instead of a conventional elapsed-time scale. The colour references are black TW2Y63900, blue TW2Y64000 and green TW2Y64100. Black is the most restrained choice, blue has a cooler nautical character, and green brings the most personality without turning the watch into a novelty. Each version pairs its dial with a coordinating bezel, so the colour feels deliberate rather than decorative. Announced on 31 July 2026, this is genuinely new rather than a model that has quietly lived on retailers’ shelves for months. The personality is familiar, but the specification changes are enough to make this more than a new colourway. Black TW2Y63900. Image: Timex. Blue TW2Y64000. Image: Timex. Green TW2Y64100. Image: Timex. A diver for someone who avoids deep water I am afraid of deep water but rather fond of diver-style watches, which is a little like loving hiking while avoiding cliffs. I like their neat engineering, their tough appearance, and the fact that I can admire a 200-metre rating without personally testing it anywhere below the shallow end. Timex specifies 200 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, screw-on case back and a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The black dial has luminous hands and markers, a magnified date, and a red GMT hand. The steel case is 42mm across, 14.5mm thick and 48...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Khaki
Chopard came out of Watches and Wonders this year swinging by simply introducing a new colored dial in the L.U.C. 1860, and perhaps it was a great indicator that sometimes, a show-stealer need not be a new mechanical innovation, but rather a refinement of an already great watch. But I would be remiss not to also talk about another release I loved seeing from the brand this year—also really just a new colorway in a limited run of 250 pieces—that I think has not gotten nearly enough love. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One ref. 168574-3013, in ceramicized titanium with a khaki green dial, marks a decade since the Time Traveler One's original introduction back in 2016. While the overall design of the worldtimer hasn't really changed, the brand hasn't held back in its use of different colors and metal variations for the model, leading to a varied back catalog for this single watch. This new version, with its combination of matte grey, green, and yellow, stands out quite a bit in Chopard's L.U.C lineup. It's the only L.U.C currently in production with a travel complication, and its understated, slightly rugged look literally contrasts with the generally polished, dressy executions of the other L.U.C models. That industrial vibe is thanks to the all-matte, sandblasted dark grey look of the ceramicized grade 5 titanium used for the 42mm by 12.09mm case, including both crowns—the one at 2 o'clock sets the local time and the date, while the crown at 4 o'clock adjusts the cit...
WristBuzz
Every bracelet needs a micro-adjust: a summer rant to the watch industry
It is July, my wrist has grown two millimetres since Tuesday, and my clasp is not ready. a serious question, delivered with love: why is on-the-fly micro-adjust still a Rolex + tudor + Omega perk instead of an industry standard?
WatchRider
DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler Takes the Adventure Icon into Titanium
DOXA has returned to the world of novelist, explorer and shipwreck hunter Clive Cussler with its lightest tribute yet. Released on July 15—the day Cussler would have turned 95—the SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler is limited to 300 pieces and recasts the original 1967 SUB 300 in Grade 5 titanium. DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler. Image: WatchRider. A titanium dial with hidden history The most unusual detail is not the metal case but the dial. DOXA constructs it from two superimposed Grade 5 titanium plates. The upper plate is laser-cut, creating a layered relief, while the sandblasted finish gives the grey surface an appropriately industrial character. Black lacquered hands preserve contrast and the oversized orange minute hand supplies the familiar DOXA signal colour. The dual-plane titanium dial and two-scale bezel. Image: DOXA. The date disc and the numerals 15, 7 and 31 appear in orange, spelling out Cussler’s birth date: July 15, 1931. The unidirectional bezel is equally busy for a reason. Its polished outer scale shows DOXA’s no-decompression depths in orange, while the brushed inner track carries a conventional 60-minute scale in black. DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler. Image: DOXA. Familiar SUB 300 proportions, less weight The cushion-shaped case measures 42.5 mm across, 45 mm lug-to-lug and 13.4 mm thick. Grade 5 titanium is used for the case, bezel, screw-down crown and screw-down caseback, while an anti-reflective glass-box sapphire crystal preserves the domed profi...
Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Updates their Spin on the Field Watch with the 02SERIES GEN2
In our over-saturated world of often austere dive watches and overwrought Explorer-likes, Studio Underd0g’s lineup is a continued breath of fresh, colorful air. The British brand’s signature style takes playful color schemes and theming, and applies them to rock-solid mechanical underpinnings to create a series of sporty timepieces that are instantly distinguishable from anything else on the market. Their 02SERIES of field watches, originally launched in 2023, has proven massively popular, with its “floating” numerals and deliciously bright seven-layer dials, topped off with a sapphire disc for depth effect. Joining that line is the GEN2 wave, which sees two new colorways, a slimmer case design, and some more mechanical tricks. The GEN2 is housed in a familiar 316L stainless steel case, slimmed down to 11.5mm in thickness, a 37.5mm diameter measurement, and a 18mm lug width. This makes it, deceptively, slightly bigger in diameter than the original 02SERIES watches, but noticeably thinner, giving it a lighter profile on the wrist despite the size difference. Inside beats the stalwart Sellita SW200-2 M manual-winding movement with hacking, though the power reserve has also been tinkered with, now offering 63 hours of off-the-wrist time before the hands stop. The two-part case construction, screw-down case back with jellyfish motif, and signed crown add touches of refinement to the otherwise fairly simple 02SSERIES GEN2 watches, and all come with a matching, colorway-...
WristBuzz
First Look: The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 'Pool' Dial (Ref. IW324902)
IWC's compact 35mm Ingenieur gets a summer-ready Pool blue dial with the familiar grid pattern. Cal. 47110 automatic (Cartier 1847 MC base), 100m water-resistance, integrated steel bracelet. €11,100, part of the permanent collection.
Worn & Wound
Max Maertens Dishes on His Creative Process in Designing the New MB&F; HM12
I first met Max Maertens at Dubai Watch Week last year. The young designer already has a storied career under his belt, working on projects with brands like Chopard, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and MB&F;, where he started out as an intern. Here, something clicked. For several years, Maertens firmly fell in the “F” or “friends” category of the brand, collaborating with MB&F; and L’Epée on the T-Rex clock before being given free rein to create the TriPod and the Orb. But his legacy with MB&F; is only just getting started. Through these projects on several horological objects, the brand’s founder Max Busser saw something special and took him under his wing as his protégé and future successor. Today, we see Maertens’ first take on a more traditional MB&F; wristwatch – well…. sort of. Making its grand entrance is the HM12 Guardian, the next chapter in the brand’s horological machines. It started with a “simple” brief (though we all know, nothing MB&F; does is simple. “I was in Max’s office, and he said to me, ‘wouldn’t it be cool to create a watch that’s also a robot’s head?’ And somehow, immediately in that moment, a vision popped in my mind of how it should look,” recalls Maertens. “In the end, I would say this final concept of the HM12 is about 80% of what I had in my mind from that first idea.” Yes, the concept still originated from the mind of Busser himself, but the design of the new HM12 Guardian – a wristwatch with a “very...
SJX Watches
Max-imum cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian”
After more than 20 years, avante garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. It combines a Horological Machine with a high-end shaped movement, flying tourbillon the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a designer. That Maertens did the har...
SJX Watches
MAXimum Cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian” is a Robot Watch-Clock
After more than 20 years, avant-garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. The HM12 is a Horological Machine containing a high-end shaped movement featuring a flying tourbillon, nestled in the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and founder Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection Brings An Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch To The Swiss Value Brand (Live Pics)
What We Know Raymond Weil has been on a roll as of late, gaining plenty of credibility with the enthusiast crowd with models like its classic sector dial Millesime, the elegantly shaped Toccata, and the watch-nerdy and sold-out limited edition chronograph The Fifty, marking its half-century anniversary. For its next trick, the Geneva-based family-owned brand is jumping into a crowded and competitive category, the integrated bracelet sport watch. Meet the A.R.T. collection, Raymond Weil's take on a stylish yet practical, take-you-just-about-anywhere, Swiss-made watch. With a steel case, the A.R.T. is 38 millimeters in diameter and 9.95mm thick. The case, bracelet design, and finishing represent a step up for the accessible brand, with polished bevels, an elegantly curved shape, and chamfered center links on the H-link integrated bracelet, which Raymond Weil says is a first for the brand. The round, smooth brushed bezel achieves a distinct design and shape from the faceted, polished cutout features at 3, 6, 9, and 12, while eschewing bolts or screws. The case is gently curved with bevels emphasizing angles at the sides and integrated lugs. With a push/pull-stamped and fluted crown, the watch offers 100 meters (330 feet) of water resistance, adding to its practical appeal. The 38mm A.R.T. comes in three sunray-finished dial colors: metallic blue, a black dial the brand calls 'graphite,' as well as a 'sage grey' dial. There are two bicolor versions with a gold bezel ...
Worn & Wound
Get in Line: the Swatch x Audemars Piguet “Royal Pop” Arrives this Weekend
Well, it’s here. After a great deal of speculation, Swatch and Audemars Piguet’s new “Royal Pop” collaboration has been unveiled. Only a few years ago, a partnership between Swatch, known mostly for inexpensive, colorful quartz watches that often serve as a gateway to a life of watch enthusiasm, and Audemars Piguet, a “Holy Trinity” brand that makes the Royal Oak, one of the most exclusive and coveted watches in the world, would have felt impossible. But the MoonSwatch changed all that, and now it seems like just about anything is possible in the world of high/low collaborations. The first thing to point out is the very obvious fact that this is not a wristwatch. These are, in fact, pocket watches, in bioceramic Royal Oak shaped cases. There are eight watches in total in two different styles, and they are powered by manually sound SISTEM51 movements. The Royal Oak design motifs are easy to identify here. Each has the expected “Petite Tapisserie” dial that the Royal Oak is known for, as well as an 8 sided bezel. They even included the hexagonal screws. Let’s go through the multiple variants of the Royal Pop. First we have the “Lépine” style case, which has a crown located at the 12:00 position. There are six colorways of the Lépine style case: Otto Rosso (pink and red), Huit Blanc (white with rainbow accents), Green Eight (green on green), Orenji Hachi (navy with orange accents), Blaue Acht (lime green and light blue) and Ocho Negro (black and ...
WristBuzz
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre: JLC's Quiet Sports-Watch Move
The Master Control Chronomètre line lands with an integrated bracelet, a brand-new High Precision Guarantee, and three models. Here's how JLC is positioning against the steel-sports-watch crowd without ever using the words "sports watch".
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G
Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G
Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Gorgeous Vintage Hamilton, Some Weird Digital Watches, Plus a Few Killer Chronographs
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Seamaster Chronograph Ok, got a great one to start this week, a gorgeous vintage Omega Seamaster chronograph. This one dates to 1968 from the serial number on the movement. It has a tonneau style steel case that is 38mm wide, and is unpolished with nice crisp edges and the original brushed finish. Even the caseback Hippocampus medallion looks sharp. The original high dome acrylic crystal is in good shape, can’t see any cracks although it could use a polish. It is signed on the underside with the Omega logo as it should be. The reverse-panda three register dial is black with white subdials, and it looks to be perfect and original. White stick hands with lume and an orange sweep chono hand with black subdial hands complete the look. The large winding crown is also signed. This gem is powered by the famous and robust Omega caliber 861 movement, the same one used in the second generation of Omega Speedmasters. The movement is clean and runs and works well per the seller. The watch comes on the original bracelet, signed and in great shape. This watch is fabulous, and rare to see at auction. View auction here Dot Matrix Seiko Digital Watch This one was too cool to pass up,...
WatchAdvice
Reviewing The Ballon Bleu de Cartier: A Unique Take On Your Classic Round Watch
In a world of round watches, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier stands out thanks to its unique design, as only Cartier can! What We Love: The unique style that is very Cartier The great-looking dial that stands out on the wrist Ease of wearing at 36mm for a variety of wrist sizes What We Don’t: The double-folding friction clasp could be upgraded to a push button in this model While unisex, some with larger wrists will most probably need to upgrade to the 42mm The crown was slightly harder to access to change the time for me Overall Rating: 8.25 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When people think of Cartier watches, the first thing that usually comes to mind is a maker of shapes. The brand has built much of its identity around distinctive case designs rather than traditional round watches, with icons such as the Santos, Tank, Tortue, Crash and Cloche, to name a few, all standing out as examples of Cartier doing things a little differently. That approach to design has long set the Maison apart from many other watchmakers who tend to lean more heavily on classic round cases. So when Cartier introduced the Cartier de Ballon Bleu in 2007, it represented something slightly different for the brand. On paper, it’s a round watch, which might sound straightforward enough, but as with most things Cartier, it’s not quite that simple. Rather than just producing a traditional circular case, Cartier added its own distinctive twist with the n...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Omega DeVille, a Vintage JDM Seiko Diver, and a Funky Hamilton Chronograph
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Wyler Dynawind Got some great Finds for you this week, beginning with this super cool and seldom seen vintage Wyler Dynawind. The stainless steel case is made in an octagonal shape, with nice angled lugs that match. The case appears unpolished, with sharp corners and clearly legible caseback engravings. No mention of the case size, but I’d guess it’s in the 35mm range. The black dial has really unique chevron shaped steel inlays on either side, complementing the angles of the case perfectly. Steel dauphine hands and no date window complete the angular, symmetrical design. The crown is signed with the Wyler “W” logo as it should. No movement pictures but it runs per the seller. The watch is on a vintage steel stretch band, but this would look sharp with a nice black croc strap in my opinion. View auction here Vintage Seiko DX Next up is a lovely vintage Seiko DX in superb condition. The 36mm steel case is unpolished, with sharp edges and original brushed and polished finish. The case has integrated lugs that attach to the original steel bracelet with a Seiko signed buckle. The dial is a beautiful, two tone bullseye design, with silver in the middle and a blue outer ...
Monochrome
Introducing - SJX Watches Teams Up with Habring2 and Drops two Chrono-Felix Medicus
Let’s set the scene and see what happens when you mix some great ingredients together. On one side, take one of the best-kept secrets on the independent watchmaking scene, one of the sole guardians of Austrian watchmaking, Habring². Next, bring into the equation our friends at SJX Watches, a highly respected watch media (named after […]
SJX Watches
Complicated Collectors: Cecil Clutton
The 1908 Itala came alive on the Silverstone grid with a sound like controlled thunder. Cecil Clutton, known to his friends as Sam, settled into the bucket seat, his hands finding their positions on the massive steering wheel. He was 63 years old; the car was a year older. Around them, sleeker machines like the Bugatti Type 35 and ERAs growled in anticipation. The other drivers wore modern racing kits; Clutton wore a tie. He dropped the clutch. The 12-litre engine roared as the rear wheels bit into the tarmac. Through Copse Corner, the car drifted wide, and Clutton held the line by feel; the steering wheel transmitted every message from the road surface through his palms. With Clutton at the wheel, the Itala crossed the line in third place; eminently respectable for a car that predated the First World War by six years. But Clutton was no ordinary racing driver, having been appointed a Commander of the Order of the British Empire for work rendered to the Crown Estate; his family founded the real estate firm Cluttons in the late 18th century. The CBE acknowledged his professional achievements in surveying, but by then his influence extended far beyond property management. He had already served as President of the Vintage Sports-Car Club from 1954 to 1957, published foundational texts on vintage motoring, established himself as a leading voice in the British Organ Reform Movement, and begun building what would become recognised as one of Britain’s finest collections of prec...
SJX Watches
Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade
Historically a complication associated with Svend Andersen, the pioneering independent who cofounded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the world time has been reworked and added to the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph movement to create the Rattrapante Mondiale. One of the most complicated offerings from Andersen Genève, the Rattrapante Mondiale features a clever two-level world time disc display while the cal. 179 inside is entirely finished by hand. Though the octogenarian Mr Andersen is now largely retired, Andersen Genève continues his artisanal approach to watchmaking that’s exemplified by the Rattrapante Mondiale. Initial thoughts Andersen Genève has produced a great many world time watches, but the Rattrapante Mondial is one of the most impressive. The movement is recognisably complicated, while the level of execution is high, especially for the movement and dial. Much of the work is also artisanal, as is typical for Andersen, which still operates out of Svend Andersen’s original premises. The Rattrapante Mondiale is appropriately sized for the design and movement, while the case styling is simple and good enough. Unusually, it’s a “destro” case with the crown on the left side and world time knob on the opposite side. The brand says it made left-handed cases for some one-off commissions in the past, but here it feels a little too much like an unnecessary affectation. It is also reminiscent of the Patek Philippe ref. 5373P...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex “Kame” Australasian Edition
Launched at the Seiko x Watch Advice event in October, the new Seiko Prospex Sea “Kame” Australasian Edition was a hit, and now it’s time for an Owner’s Perspective Review! What We Love An Australasian edition with design cues from North Queensland – the colours are great! The ease of wearing, even for a “larger” watch Value for money at under A$1,000 What We Don’t The pin buckle has a habbit of sticking out a little and catching on my pocket The bracelet could be more refined for a divers watch The steel strap minder looks good, but it’s not as functional as a rubber one would be Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 When it comes to Seiko, there are many iconic models in the catalogue, but few hold as much love arguably as the Prospex, and even more so, the “Turtle” with its turtle-shaped case, dive bezel and offset crown at 4 o’clock. Models like the Captain Willard, named after Martin Sheen’s character in the cinema classic “Apocalypse Now” are sought after and collectable. Just walk down a popular beach, and the likelihood is you’ll see several Seiko Turtles strapped to wrists. I was on the Gold Coast a few weeks ago, with the new “Kame” strapped to my wrist, and I saw no less than about 5 other Seiko Prospex Turtles on other wrists. Although none were quite as good-looking (in my opinion) as the new Australasian limited edition “Kame”. One reason I bought it at our e...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Rolex Blue Dial Watches
When you think of Rolex, the first colors your mind usually conjures up are green and gold, long the emblematic colors of the Swiss power brand and its world-famous “crown” logo. (Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf is said to have settled on these colors because they symbolized wealth and success.) Blue, on the other hand, is not a color that most watch aficionados readily associate with Rolex, though many will associate it with other watch brands, like Breguet, Breitling, and Rolex’s own little brother, Tudor. However, when Rolex does decide to do blue - whether it’s for dials, bezels, or some combination of both - it does so in a way that really speaks to the brand’s avid fan base. Over the years, some blue-dialed Rolex watches, in fact, are not only popular but have become recognized as classics. Here are seven Rolexes with blue dials - some discontinued and collectible, others still available in the current collection - that have demanded enthusiast attention. (Price estimates for the discontinued models on the list are courtesy of WatchCharts.) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41, Ref. 126334 ($11,100) Rolex released the Datejust in 1945, and the model is today regarded as one of the world’s most classically elegant dress watches. The Datejust brought two now-familiar elements to the world of watch design, one of which can be found throughout the watch industry, the other being still closely associated with Rolex. The first was the addition of a date disp...
Teddy Baldassarre
15 Best Purple-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury
Purple is the color of royalty, and it appears that a Purple Reign has started to quietly take over the watch world in recent years, with violet hues finding their way to an increasing number of dials, from a somewhat surprisingly diverse range of watch brands. Like their predecessors in green, red, and orange, purple dials are still, in fact, something of a novelty; many of the timepieces featured below are intended for a niche, limited audience. Nevertheless, the rise of purple tones on watch dials is worthy of notice, and almost certainly here to stay for a while, Here we’ve gathered 15 of our favorite purple-dial watches in ascending order of price, from under $500 to over $85K. Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Sunray Purple Dial Price: $475, Case Size: 37mm, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of mechanical timepieces, including the NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer a variety of them, with a subtle sunburst finish, including the purple dial watch above. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for better ergonomics on the wrist. The bracelet has what Citizen describes as a “mountain-shaped” design ...
Worn & Wound
Timex Launches “Timex Atelier” with the New Marine M1a
Timex is continuing its experiment with higher-end horology with its latest release, the Timex Atelier Marine M1a, which the brand describes as a spiritual successor to the Giorgio Galli series and the first watch in the new Timex Atelier line. The Galli series garnered attention for being “luxury Timex,” with minimalist design, higher-grade cases - like the titanium Giorgio Galli S2Ti - and, biggest of all, that prestigious “Swiss-made” label. Timex says the Marine M1a is the “next chapter” in the brand’s history as it continues to build watches in Switzerland with higher-end materials and movements than typical Timex watches. In the case of the Marine M1a, that means a 41mm skeletonized stainless-steel case with an iron-plating coated midcase, a brushed-steel bracelet, a ceramic bezel, Superlominva-filled indices, and an enamel dial. The watch is powered by a Catena SA100 automatic movement finished with Geneva stripes and perlage that you can get an easy look at through the watch’s exhibition caseback. It’s a bit more conservative in design than the retro-minimalism of the Galli watches, and, in the words of Timex’s chief creative director, Giorgio Galli himself, was “not designed to impress at a glance,” but to “be discovered, slowly, over time.” There are many details to discover over time. A signed crown, silver-applied indices, a movement rotor engraved with “Timex Atelier.” But the watch isn’t just aesthetic-oriented - with a...
Worn & Wound
MB&F; Debuts the LM101 EVO
There’s a style of watch that I’ve grown particularly fond of over the last few years, and I sometimes find it hard to articulate why. The high end, exotic independent on a rubber strap calls to me like the Sirens. There’s something about the mix of high and low that appeals to me, I think, as it does with everything else I like, from Monty Python to the films of Bong Joon-ho. I also just find a good rubber strap to be one of the most comfortable ways to wear a watch, particularly (but not exclusively) in the warm weather months. And so I’ve nursed a years-long appreciation for Hublot (who basically invented this idea) and have a watch box disproportionately tilted to watches that give me the same feeling (a pair of Arcanauts, and a Bel Canto that lives on rubber year round spring to mind). It should not be surprising, then, that MB&F;’s EVO line has become a personal favorite. The EVO series of watches take Legacy Machine pieces (conceived as MB&F;’s collection inspired by classical watchmaking) and give them a sporty treatment, replacing leather straps with rubber, and adding water resistance and screw down crowns. It makes a ton of sense to create “everyday wear” versions of these watches (if you’re spending into the six figures on these pieces, I imagine you’d want to wear them more frequently, right?) and making them more casual and sporty in appearance is such a natural idea it’s almost hard to believe these haven’t existed from the beginning. N...
Worn & Wound
Dennison Doubles Down on Their Stylish Stone Dials (Real Shots)
Minimal, quartz, stone dial dress watches with “TV-cases” would have been a hard sell with watch enthusiasts just a few years ago, but you wouldn’t know it from Dennison’s rapid rise in popularity. The historic British brand, twice revived, has been one-to-watch in the last year, having launched the ALD line of watches fitting the description mentioned above just last October (2024) to great success. Perfectly timed for the seemingly capricious swings of the enthusiast zeitgeist, the combination of a 60s/70s shaped case, clean, expansive stone dials, effortless style, and approachable price point made them an easy sell for those who wanted to dabble with an aesthetic that was previously the domain of luxury jewelry watch brands. Less than a year since launch, Dennison is back and, quite literally, doubling down on their inaugural line’s success with the ALD Dual Time. An extension of the first line, as the name suggests, the Dual Times can tell the time in more than one location, but do so in a decidedly direct and retro method. They have two movements. Positioned on either side of the dial, with independent crowns on either side of the case, these twin quartz tickers (though it should be noted there are no seconds hands) allow for differences down to the minute. Convenient for the rare 15 or 30-minute timezone change, or perhaps tracking a friend who is always 10 minutes late, this layout is as easy to read as it is visually dynamic. The close proximity of the t...
SJX Watches
Striking New Hues for the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual
The recently launched 222 in steel may be the watch of the hour, but Vacheron Constantin continues to build out the Overseas line with a facelift for the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V that gets new dials in burgundy and pink gold, both with pale blue accents. While the new pair are built on old bones, they remain competitive and appealing thanks to the extremely slim profile, great dials and well-appointed bracelets. Initial thoughts While the fad for integrated bracelet sport watches has cooled off, the genre remains remain popular and new contenders emerge every day, compelling established players to reinvent themselves. The Overseas Perpetual Calendar is definitely an established player in this segment and competitive with most of the market, at least for now. The thin movement inside has a proven track record by virtue of its age (the basic architecture debuted in 1967). Moreover, the Overseas perpetual also deserves praise for being very good looking, especially with the new burgundy dial. The blue accents work surprisingly well against the burgundy, though less so against pink gold. That said, the age of the movement is significant. It was easy to ignore the movement when the same was true of its peers. That is changing; Audemars Piguet overhauled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with an all-new movement earlier this year, which features an entirely crown-set calendar. While I think the difficulty of setting perpetual calendars with pushers is exa...
Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Jet Star Review: Retro Design Meets Cutting-Edge Precision
The Bulova Jet Star is one of those watches that leaves no room for doubt as to the decade from which its distinctive design originates. Revived in 2023 to commemorate the original's 50th anniversary, in a trio of diverse colorways, all the modern Jet Star models vibe “‘70s throwback” in a major way, with their unconventional, turtle-shaped cases and boldly colorful dials. However, they’re also very avant-garde in ways that their predecessors simply weren’t able to be, particularly in their use of Bulova’s high-frequency Precisionist calibers, their elevated level of finishing, and the almost three-dimensional degradé effect enhancing their dials. Scroll down for a closer look at each of the 50th anniversary Bulova Jet Star watches. Bulova Jet Star Case And Bracelet The modern Jet Star case is more angular and multifaceted than the curvilinear “turtle” shape of its 1970s predecessor. Strictly speaking, the case is octagonally shaped and topped with a round bezel that hugs the domed sapphire crystal. Measuring 40mm in diameter, approximately 45mm lug to lug, and 12.5mm thick, it boasts an array of polished and brushed finishes that accentuate those multiple, subtle edges and surfaces and lend the Jet Star an air of luxury in addition to its unmistakable retro charm. The lugs themselves are relatively short, with a 20mm lug width to accommodate the bracelet (on the two steel versions) or strap (on the gold-tone model and the steel limited edition). The crown...