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Results for Display vs Solid Caseback

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Display vs Solid Caseback

Sapphire window vs engraved metal. Haute-horlogerie standard since 1985 vs the Submariner / Daytona / Speedmaster heritage.

Honeygold Takes Center Stage Across the Case and Dial in This Lesser-Known A. Lange & Söhne Collection, the Cabaret Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne May 18, 2026

Honeygold Takes Center Stage Across the Case and Dial in This Lesser-Known A. Lange & Söhne Collection, the Cabaret

It’s been a few years since we last saw A. Lange & Söhne fold one of its lesser-known collections back into its catalog: the Cabaret. Making a comeback, the newest addition marks the only rectangular model among the brand’s current offerings. It also puts the maison’s proprietary alloy, Honeygold, on full display across the case as well as the dial for only the second time, with the first being the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” from 2020. The rectangular case shape of the Cabaret is certainly unique for A. Lange & Söhne, who’s become synonymous with more traditional round designs like its instantly recognizable Lange 1. However, for me, despite the highly wearable 29.5mm x 39.2mm x 10.3mm proportions, the material composition and finishings of this model are really the star of the show. Here, you have the pleasing alloy – not quite yellow gold, not quite white gold, not quite pink gold but a soft and beautiful shade all its own – featured in its original form across the case and dial accents. The material is also used for the dial but has received a black-rhodium treatment.    At first glance, this looks like just another handsomely executed A. Lange & Söhne dial, but upon closer inspection, there are more layers to unpack (literally). The result is four subtle elevations on the dial giving it interest and depth. This dial composition consists of three parts: the main dial plus two auxiliary dials for the seconds and the power-...

Hands On: Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final May 12, 2026

Hands On: Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition

Urwerk bids farewell to the Spacemeter with UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition. As the final series of the UR-10, the 25-piece limited edition features a dark blue dial that differentiates it from the black and silver editions released previously. The watch is otherwise identical to its predecessors, and features an instrument panel-like display that tracks the progress of the Earth around both the sun and its own axis. Initial thoughts The ‘almost conventional’ display of the UR-10 represents a departure for Urwerk, which made its name in satellite wandering hours complications. Like the quirky and impressive EMC, the UR-10 proves Urwerk’s space-age aesthetic works in a variety of formats. But the Spacemeter’s time on Earth was relatively short, having been launched less than a year ago. The limited production of just 75 pieces (25 in each of three colours) should reward collectors, but I’m hopeful the ergonomic case and bracelet will come out of retirement to house different complications in the future. The UR-10 borrows a number of stylistic cues from the UR-100, but the case construction is entirely novel. The 45.4 mm case is essentially a bi-level construction — stainless steel on the bottom for a stable weight balance, and titanium on top for a continuous look from case to bracelet. The two materials contrast slightly on the winglets on either side of the case, where they are fastened with bolts. This construction is similar to that of the original Pate...

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne May 8, 2026

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen

The watches of A. Lange & Söhne very rarely gets a chance to step out of the stoically traditional design language the brand has established since its relaunch in 1994, but one collection from the brand offers a unique respite from it all. Lange's Lumen series is now in its 16th year since the introduction of the Zeitwerk "Luminous" back in 2010, with its inaugural display of smoked sapphire, blacked-out details, and, of course, luminous numerals for the hour and minute discs. But while that model was the first to be executed, the following Grand Lange 1 Lumen in 2012 was the first model officially given the name "Lumen." Last month, at Watches and Wonders, Lange introduced the seventh Lumen in the lineup, with the new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen. Following the absolutely bonkers Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in Honeygold released in 2025 for the Datograph's twenty-fifth anniversary, this new glow-in-the-dark take on the very complicated Lange 1 model marks a pattern of increasing complication (and resulting price points) for the Lumen series. A closer look reveals that there's a lot going on, and for nerds, it's certainly a feast for the eyes. In person, the cold, austere look of the chunky, 41.9mm case in platinum immediately struck me, as it was a welcome return to the combination of a smoky, black look with white metal from the past two Lumen iterations in Honeygold (that Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon and its predecessor, the Zeitwerk). For a design ...

Introducing - New Editions of the MeisterSinger Pangaea with Textured Dials Monochrome
Meistersinger Pangaea Apr 23, 2026

Introducing - New Editions of the MeisterSinger Pangaea with Textured Dials

While not the only brand to offer watches with a single-handed time display, MeisterSinger (since 2001) is the only one to have built its entire identity around this concept. Rooted in early watchmaking traditions, long before minutes and seconds dominated the dial, the brand’s approach prioritises perception over precision. A slower, more deliberate reading of […]

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

Introducing - Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Apr 17, 2026

Introducing - Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date

Jaeger-LeCoultre revisits one of its most important contemporary tourbillon movements with the new Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date. While the underlying Calibre 978 is familiar to collectors, the latest iteration restructures the movement’s architecture. Featuring a partially openworked dial, the tourbillon, signature jumping date mechanism, and 24-hour display come to the fore. Paying homage […]

First Look - The New Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Apr 16, 2026

First Look - The New Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points

Since the third generation of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas arrived in 2016, the Maison has expanded the collection with everything from simple three-hand models to perpetual calendars and tourbillons. Yet for a watch originally designed with travel in mind, a basic second time zone display was missing. This was addressed in 2018 with the Overseas […]

Introducing - The Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic, a Slimmer and More Refined Update Monochrome
Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Apr 16, 2026

Introducing - The Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic, a Slimmer and More Refined Update

When Alpina showcased the Startimer back in 2011, it revisited its early 20th-century pilot’s watches. A part of the catalogue ever since, the appeal was simple. Clear cockpit styling, solid specifications, and a price that did not push things too far. At the centre of this collection sits the Startimer Pilot Automatic, the uncomplicated three-hander […]

Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch SJX Watches
Tudor Ascends Apr 15, 2026

Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch

Tudor celebrates 100 years with the surprising Monarch. Historically one of the more obscure models in the brand’s catalogue, the earlier generation of Monarch was retired in the early 2000s. Now the name makes its return, but in an entirely different form, with the latest iteration bearing an unexpected emphasis on movement finishing and quality – with a display back that shows off Tudor’s first-ever decorated in-house movement. Initial Thoughts It is no secret that Tudor had its fair share of hit and misses in terms of design, especially during the 1990s. The original Monarch arguably fell into the latter category as an unfortunate blend of sporty and elegant design elements, which resulted in a rather unappealing and mostly forgotten product.  The new Monarch, on the other hand, has almost nothing to do with his ancestor, save for the name. The new timepiece reimagines the beloved if quirky California dial, improves greatly in terms of movement finishing and manages to blend well both classy and sporty elements.    At first sight one might be tempted to assume the Monarch is a dress timepiece, but elements like the metal link bracelet, angular overall profile and screw-down crown give it a sporty, rugged edge.  Tudor made an interesting choice with the dial colour, going for a brushed sand-hued piece paired with black applied indices. The California configuration paired with the small seconds at six o’clock is dressy, but the angular case makes for a thoroug...

Watches & Wonders: Roger Dubuis Debuts an All-New Perpetual Calendar Caliber Alongside a Sporty Version of its Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Roger Dubuis Debuts an All-New Perpetual Calendar Caliber Alongside a Sporty Version of its Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

Roger Dubuis’ latest releases at Watches and Wonders are steeped in the brand’s history. For the occasion, the maison introduces two complicated pieces – a perpetual calendar and day-date calendar – each in the brand’s patented biretrograde display. Prior to founding his namesake maison, Mr. Roger Dubuis was a prolific watchmaker for several brands, from Patek Philippe to Longines. One such project came in 1989 when he and fellow watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht collaboratively pioneered and patented their famous biretrograde display, which reworked the traditional concept and made it more streamlined. This approach eased assembly and improved the stability and readability of the hands on the ecliptic retrograde counters. Soon after, the pair engineered a double retrograde perpetual calendar module, which was notably used in a timepiece for Harry Winston. A year after the brand’s official founding, Roger Dubuis introduced its own biretrograde display timepiece and later the perpetual calendar complication in its iconic Sympathie and Homage collections. Today, we see the next evolution of these concepts highlighted in a rather modestly sized 40mm version of its Excalibur line. The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is notably powered by an entirely new movement: the RD850. Here, the maison builds upon the work set forth four decades ago with a self-winding caliber built from 435 components in-house at Roger Dubuis’ Geneva manufacture. A key functional i...

Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 6105G-001 Celestial Sunrise And Sunset Fratello
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 13, 2026

Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 6105G-001 Celestial Sunrise And Sunset

At Watches and Wonders 2026, Patek Philippe expands its astronomical watchmaking with the Celestial ref. 6105G-001. The new model builds on the existing Celestial line, which has long focused on representing the night sky through a rotating sky chart and lunar indications. This latest reference adds a new complication to the series with a display […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 6105G-001 Celestial Sunrise And Sunset to read the full article.

Introducing - The new, Surprisingly Modern Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G Monochrome
Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G Apr 13, 2026

Introducing - The new, Surprisingly Modern Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G

On the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2026, Patek Philippe unveils a new astronomical complication with the reference 6105G-001, standing out with its surprisingly modern design. Derived from the Celestial, it features a multi-layered dial with several stacked discs that rotate independently to display the night sky with the apparent movement of the stars as […]

Introducing - Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Presents the new AB-05 Skylight Series Monochrome
Apr 8, 2026

Introducing - Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Presents the new AB-05 Skylight Series

Over the past few years, Qian GuoBiao, an independent watchmaker working in Dongguan, China, known as “the tourbillon doctor“, has established a quite disciplined design language, shaped by his background in the restoration and application of traditional hand-finishing. His earlier watches focused on clarity, proportion and the display of mechanics, incorporating visible balances without resorting […]

Introducing - New Editions of the Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Since Apr 8, 2026

Introducing - New Editions of the Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph

Square chronographs are rare, and inevitably, any watch in this category gets compared with the iconic TAG Heuer Monaco. Since its debut in 2008, the Averin Chronograph by Union Glashütte has occupied similar territory, combining a bold, geometric case with a sporty chronograph display. Earlier versions looked to form their own identity and relied on […]

Hands-On With The Santos De Cartier Brown Dial WatchAdvice
Cartier Brown Dial We spend Mar 31, 2026

Hands-On With The Santos De Cartier Brown Dial

We spend a week with the Santos De Cartier Large brown dial to see how this timeless piece wears in the hustle and bustle of daily life. What We Love The timeless design of the Santos Ingenious quick-change bracelet and quick-link system The slim profile on the wrist What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet The brown dial may not be to everyone’s tastes A see-through caseback would be a great addition Overall Score: 8.75/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Reviewing The New Santos De Cartier Brown Dial As far as watch releases go, few brands garner global attention on the first day at Watches & Wonders. One of these is Cartier. The second biggest watch brand by sales in the world and a brand synonymous with luxury, Cartier always manages to surprise with both their “everyday” pieces, as well as their Cartier Privé and High Jewellery collection from their Maison Mètiers d’Arts. WATCH EDUCATION: A Look Into How Cartier Creates Its Iconic Pieces Back in 2024, I was excited to see first-hand what the Maison would bring out, and hopefully, get my hands on these, as at the time, I had not reviewed a piece from Cartier before. One of these pieces was the Santos De Cartier Large with a 70’s vibe brown gradient dial, and being something very different to what I’m used to wearing, I was keen to put it on the wrist Initial Thoughts I always write down my initial thoughts when...

How Do You Like Your Rotor - Central, Micro, Or Peripheral? And What About A Hammer? Fratello
Mar 29, 2026

How Do You Like Your Rotor - Central, Micro, Or Peripheral? And What About A Hammer?

Is there such a thing as a best rotor? A pragmatic watchmaker might say a heavy central one that winds the mainspring the most efficiently is the best. A collector of traditional watches with similar movements might say that nothing beats a solid micro-rotor. And I know people with a deep fondness for technical watchmaking […] Visit How Do You Like Your Rotor - Central, Micro, Or Peripheral? And What About A Hammer? to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Surprisingly Creative Nordic Marine Instruments Lunør Fratello
Mar 25, 2026

Hands-On With The Surprisingly Creative Nordic Marine Instruments Lunør

One of the most intriguing natural phenomena is the aurora borealis, also known as the northern lights. Witnessing this display of colors in the sky is on the bucket lists of many travel lovers. I haven’t seen the spectacular green, red, and purple night skies, but I know from friends that they are mesmerizing. The […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprisingly Creative Nordic Marine Instruments Lunør to read the full article.

Tissot Visodate Automatic Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Visodate Automatic Review Tissot Mar 17, 2026

Tissot Visodate Automatic Review

Tissot traces its long history back to 1853, when it was founded in Switzerland’s Jura Mountains by the father-son watchmaking team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot.  Today part of the Swatch Group, Tissot can lay claim to several watchmaking milestones throughout its history, including the first pocket watch to display two time zones in 1853; the first watch built to resist magnetism, the Antimagnetique, in 1930; and the first tactile-screen multifunction digital watch, the T-Touch, in 1999, years before the smartwatch would come into existence. Today, Tissot markets more than 4 million watches per year to more than 160 countries and is known for producing what its parent group terms “midrange market” watches that are prized for their price-to-value ratio.  Tissot’s 1950s-era Visodate was among the first fleet of watches to introduce an integrated date complication, but the line’s contemporary renditions have continuously flown under the radar within the enthusiast community – until today, that is. New for 2026, the brand has given the collection a complete overhaul, revamping the Visodate to be more everyday-carry friendly than ever without sacrificing its quintessential retro flair.  [toc-section heading="History And Context"]  Vintage 1950s Tissot Visodate Advertisement The original Tissot Visodate hit shelves in 1953, marking 100 years since Tissot’s founding. It was not the first wristwatch with a date display in a window - that woul...

Introducing - Indie Brand Akhor Launches the Lumiere Blanche Editions Monochrome
Mar 16, 2026

Introducing - Indie Brand Akhor Launches the Lumiere Blanche Editions

Geneva-based independent brand Akhor presented its inaugural Le Temps en Équilibre collection in 2025, built around a patented dual-disc display system, and it was immediately recognised for its innovative dial concept and proprietary movement. The new Lumière Blanche editions expand the concept with a new artistic direction, where white becomes the central design element. The […]