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Results for Jumping Hour

1,066 articles · 43 videos found · page 24 of 37

Italian Indie Gagà Laboratorio Introduces Two New References Worn & Wound
Jun 9, 2025

Italian Indie Gagà Laboratorio Introduces Two New References

We covered the introduction of Gagà Laboratorio back in August of last year, and have remained curious about how this new independent brand with Italian roots would evolve. Their first models, the Labormatic Bauhaus and Labormatic Cinquanta, paired a highly considered case design defined by dramatically flared lugs with a creative timetelling format that riffs heavily on the classic jump hour. Each watch represented the flipside of the same coin: the Bauhaus subtle and minimal, the Cinquanta more light and colorful. The brand’s latest releases are a new pair of Labormatics that follow a similar theme.  First up, the Labormatic Champagne. This watch was conceived as something of a counterpoint to the minimalist design ethos of the Bauhaus model. The Champagne, as the name of the watch implies, is celebratory where the Bauhaus is subdued, trading clean and cold grays for vibrant gold tones, including deeply textured dial base. On this reference, as with the Bauhaus, time is told via a digital hours window at the 12:00 position and an analog minute display.  Gagà Laboratorio has also introduced the Labormatic Azzuro, which can be understood as a complement to last year’s Cinquanta. Both watches are inspired by Italian design from the 1950s, which was a notably colorful period following the tumult of World War II. The pastel blue tones seen here look great with the rich, wine red chosen for the stylized Arabic numerals in the hour and minute tracks. Once again, the hou...

My Story of Buying a Pre-Owned Rolex Day-Date 36 in Platinum with “Glacier Blue Wave Arabic Dial”: a Caveat Emptor Scare but a Happy Ending Quill & Pad
Rolex Day-Date 36 Jun 7, 2025

My Story of Buying a Pre-Owned Rolex Day-Date 36 in Platinum with “Glacier Blue Wave Arabic Dial”: a Caveat Emptor Scare but a Happy Ending

Niclas has arranged to meet the seller of a platinum Rolex Day-Date at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris. If all goes well, the watch transaction should be completed within an hour the he would catch the next flightto Stockholm. What makes him nervous is that the deal is to be done in cryptocurrency. But that's not what went wrong.

Introducing - The NYC-Special Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jun 3, 2025

Introducing - The NYC-Special Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle

Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10 series was first introduced in 2016, and since then, the line has been known for its original design and 240-hour power reserve and an in-house movement that exposes its mechanism through a skeletonized display. Over the years, the series has been interpreted in various materials and sizes, including titanium, ceramic, carbon […]

Gunsmith Dewey Vicknair Returns with Second Handmade Watch SJX Watches
May 28, 2025

Gunsmith Dewey Vicknair Returns with Second Handmade Watch

A year ago, we covered a self-taught watchmaker who built his first piece by watch, Dewey Vicknair. Now the American gunsmith has completed his second watch, a regulator with a jump hour function that’s once again hand-made. He published a comprehensive photo essay detailing the steps in manufacturing the watch, which is a worthwhile read for anyone interested in a contemporary, yet fully manual watchmaking process.  Initial thoughts The story of Mr. Vicknair is unlike most independent watchmakers. Now in his mid-fifties, he long ago built his reputation as a maker and restorer of firearms before turning to watchmaking. Self-taught, Mr. Vicknair is definitely a quick study; he adapted his metal-working skills to horology and produced his first watch swiftly. Even more interesting, perhaps, is the way he creates his own tooling. From a vertical drill press to various cutters and even custom tweezers for bending the hairspring overcoil, Mr. Vicknair seems able to build any tool to cater to his requirements.  Artisanal watchmakers usually use restored vintage machines when making watches, but it is very rare that they develop the tools themselves. Mr. Vicknair’s extensive experience as a gunsmith gives him an excellent understanding of machinery that cannot simply be taught in watchmaking schools. His work is clearly that of a very talented mechanical craftsman who just happens to have mastered watchmaking – after having mastered gunsmithing.  The watch itself is pre...

Introducing: The New CIGA Design Legend Of Serpent Fratello
May 27, 2025

Introducing: The New CIGA Design Legend Of Serpent

CIGA Design produces watches that are different from the norm. It’s immediately apparent that this isn’t the typical timekeeper with central hour and minute hands. The round, UFO-like cases also stand out in a futuristic way. Now we see two new models that represent a departure from prior pieces. The Legend of Serpent editions use […] Visit Introducing: The New CIGA Design Legend Of Serpent to read the full article.

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40 Odyssey Edition And Experimental 01 Fratello
Fears Brunswick 40 Odyssey Edition May 18, 2025

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40 Odyssey Edition And Experimental 01

As watch fans, we’re used to brands and timepieces being attached to impressive feats. Some examples are jumping from planes, diving to ridiculous depths, and shooting off into space. Now Fears has opted to sponsor the Great British Odyssey, an attempt by record-setting ocean rower Angus Collins to row unassisted around the United Kingdom. The […] Visit Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40 Odyssey Edition And Experimental 01 to read the full article.

Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock Fratello
Apr 24, 2025

Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock

I feel a strong sense of nostalgia for the old flipping scoreboards I remember from my childhood. That’s probably why I adore digital jump-hour watches and quartz flip clocks so much. When I first saw the Plato Clock, patented in 1903, I froze in amazement. I believe I’m pretty strong when it comes to controlling […] Visit Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock to read the full article.

Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition Fratello
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Apr 23, 2025

Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition

The Montblanc 0 Oxygen series celebrates explorers and mountaineers. These robust watches often feature worldtimer functionality and a second 12-hour time display. Today’s 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition does too, but it also brings impressive dial-making techniques and advanced materials. With a name like Montblanc, it makes sense that the brand pays […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition to read the full article.

Notes From a Very Busy Day at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Cartier Apr 15, 2025

Notes From a Very Busy Day at Watches & Wonders

Wednesday April 2, 2025 5:30 AM: 9Hotel Paquis  I’m awake for day two of Watches & Wonders an hour before my (first) alarm, which was probably an hour earlier than it needed to be anyway. Am I refreshed? I am not. My internal clock is still on east coast time, which means if I were back home I’d be settling in on the couch getting ready to stream some movie that I’ve seen a million times and am comfortable falling asleep to. Maybe Prometheus, a favorite among members of the watch media for reasons I can’t quite articulate.   8:30 AM: the shuttle to Palexpo We are at a new hotel this year deeper into the red light district which is the second or third stop on the shuttle line. By the time the shuttle gets to us, it’s quite crowded, standing room only. A shorter trip though, which is welcome.  I always find myself wondering who these people on the shuttle are. The answer, almost certainly, is that they are retailers. Retailers are everywhere – they outnumber media by a significant percentage. Watches & Wonders is an important business event for retailers, hence the suits. European retailers are almost always wearing Cartier. American retailers are almost always wearing those sneakers that look like dress shoes.  A note on shuttle etiquette: when you board a crowded shuttle, move as deep into the center as possible. Don’t stand by the door – it makes it more difficult for people to board at the next stop. 9:30 AM: Palexpo I’m at a table in a section of ...

Tudor’s Black Bay Pro, Now in Opaline White SJX Watches
Tudor s Black Bay Pro Apr 7, 2025

Tudor’s Black Bay Pro, Now in Opaline White

Tudor has given its Black Bay Pro a new look with an “opaline” white dial, fulfilling a long-standing enthusiasts’ wish. This new model replaces the black dial launched in 2022, while retaining the same 39 mm case and 24-hour fixed bezel. It’s equipped with a pale orange GMT hand that stands out prominently against the “polar” white dial. Initial thoughts Three years after its initial release, the Black Bay Pro remains one of the strongest value propositions in the sub–US$5,000 segment of dual time zone watches. Priced at US$4,375 on a steel bracelet, the Black Bay Pro is a true GMT with an independently adjustable local hour hand. Plus it features a solid bracelet with a micro-adjust clasp and a high-spec in-house movement. Naturally, the fact that it’s reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer II “polar” doesn’t hurt. The only drawback is the 14.6 mm case that is a little too thick for its compact diameter. Fortunately, Tudor does offer a better proportioned dual time zone with the Black Bay 58 GMT, but that’s only available in black and burgundy for now. Opaline dial The domed white dial is the star of the show. Like the original model, it features applied luminous ceramic-polymer hour markers. Here the markings are in black on a matte white dial, matched with an orange GMT hand. Apart from the dial, the watch remains identical to the earlier Black Bay Pro. It features a 39 mm case housing the COSC-certified MT5652 movement, which operates at 28,800 beat...

H. Moser Goes “Pop” with their New Stone Dial Collection Worn & Wound
H. Moser Goes “Pop” Apr 4, 2025

H. Moser Goes “Pop” with their New Stone Dial Collection

It’s well understood at this point that stone dials are experiencing a renaissance in all corners of the watch market. In fact, it might almost be kind of boring to point this out as we continue to see new spins on these dials released on an almost weekly basis. So it would be tempting to say that H. Moser is jumping on the stone dial bandwagon with their new Pop collection, the centerpiece of their Watches & Wonders 2025 strategy. But I don’t think that’s quite fair. Moser, for their part, has been ahead of the curve on stone dials. They’ve released a handful of extremely limited watches with dials crafted from jade, falcon’s eye, and other stones in recent years. And with the Pop collection watches, they’ve done something genuinely creative, combining multiple stones in each dial in unexpected ways across three different models.  The Pop collection exists in the Endeavour line, and makes use of all three watches on the platform: the Endeavour Small Seconds, Endeavour Tourbillon, and Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept. There are six groups of three watches, each making use of a combination of two stones. The stone pairings are Burmese jade and pink opal, lapis lazuli and lemon chrysoprase, and turquoise and coral. Each pairing is executed in two ways, with one stone being dominant in each. So, for example, there’s a Small Seconds model with Burmese jade in the main dial and pink opal in the sub seconds, and another with the opposite. For the tourb...

Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Q-Repeater Collection Monochrome
Chronoswiss Q-Repeater Collection Gerd R Mar 31, 2025

Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Q-Repeater Collection

Gerd R. Lang, the founder of Chronoswiss, developed a distinctive design language featuring old-school regulators, jumping hours, knurled bezels, large onion crowns and screwed lugs. In the hands of the Ebstein family since 2012, Chronoswiss has maintained the regulator and other traditional displays but injected new life into its collections with a bold mix of […]

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition Fratello
Gerald Charles Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition

In celebration of its quarter-century anniversary, Gerald Charles presents the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. This is a jump-hour watch with an in-house-designed caliber. Naturally, the new timepiece features the brand’s signature baroque case shape, but it is fully modernized with Grade 5 titanium construction. We’ve covered the majority of new releases from Gerald Charles […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition to read the full article.

Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V Magic T “Hunter Green” SJX Watches
Urwerk Unveils Jan 31, 2025

Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V Magic T “Hunter Green”

Urwerk refines its entry-level offering with the UR-100V Magic T Hunter Green that showcases a metallic ash green dial matched with a sandblasted case and bracelet. Entirely in titanium, the new UR-100V is sleek, matte, and lightweight. The new model remains mechanically identical to the standard UR-100V, and retains the distinctive satellite disc hour display, where the hour indicator advances along a curved 120-degree track graduated for 60 minutes. Initial thoughts Building on the ongoing expansion of the UR-100V series, the Magic T “Hunter Green” adopts the same sanded, shot-blasted titanium case as the original Magic T - but now rendered in metallic ash green. Though the new model has more contrast, it still retains the muted, low-key aesthetic found on the all-grey original. While the model itself has appeal, Urwerk has arguably introduced too many iterations of the UR-100, each distinguished by only subtle variations, since the model’s debut in 2019. This has made the model line confusing, and leaving each individual edition less distinctive. As with other UR-100 models, the “Hunter Green” is an entry-level model in the Urwerk catalogue and priced CHF58,000, or a third of the recent flagship UR-230 Polaris. This and other UR-100 models provide enthusiasts with the chance to experience Urwerk’s signature complication and advanced case making at a relatively accessible price. Restrained green Apart from the green finish, the “Hunter Green” remains id...

Explained: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Jan 22, 2025

Explained: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time

Perhaps Louis Vuitton’s most famous complication, the Spin Time is a three-dimensional jump hour that was historically synonymous with the original, chunky Tambour case. Now Louis Vuitton has revamped both the complication and case to create the Tambour Taiko Spin Time. More compact and elegant than its predecessor, the Tambour Taiko is an expertly detailed case matched with restrained “dolphin grey” livery. Also employed in the new Convergence, the new case is home to an equally new family of in-house movements that will be the foundation of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking. All of the Tambour Taiko Spin Time models – there are four in all, plus two gem-set variants – are equipped with movements from this family. The line-up starts with the 39.5 mm base model, while the rest are all 42.5 mm. They include the Spin Time Antipode with a novel world time function, and the top-of-the-line Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon combining the jumping hours complication with a central tourbillon. All feature the signature Spin Time display of jumping cubes that indicate the current hour with a contrast-colour face. From left: Spin Time, Spin Time Air, Spin Time Antipode, and Spin Time Flying Tourbillon (not to scale) Initial thoughts Though I like very much the original, chunky Tambour, the redesigned case has a more subtle, refined appeal. The Tambour Taiko is far more wearable and boasts a noticeably higher level of finishing and detail, though it does lose some of th...

Introducing: The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Collection Fratello
Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Jan 21, 2025

Introducing: The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Collection

Jump-hour watches are a fascinating branch within the world of horology. They often only show you the exact information you need when you look at your watch - the hours, the minutes, and sometimes the seconds. In 2009, Louis Vuitton, with the help of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, introduced the Spin Time, […] Visit Introducing: The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Collection to read the full article.

Bovet Introduces Retrograde Perpetual with Sapphire Dial SJX Watches
Bovet Dec 18, 2024

Bovet Introduces Retrograde Perpetual with Sapphire Dial

Bovet’s latest creation, the Récital 21, is a perpetual calendar with retrograde date presented in a modern style. The large, 44.4 mm titanium case contains tinted sapphire dial that reveals the calendar mechanism with twist: the retrograde date hand is damped so it gradually returns to the origin rather than jumping instantaneously. Initial thoughts Bovet is best known for its large complications, some of which are elaborately and intricately styled. The Récital 21 is classic Bovet, but in a slightly more approachable format. It’s a complicated watch but in a more contemporary package, especially with the sapphire dial and luminous markings. The case is (slightly) more wearable, though it has the signature sloped “writing desk” case, which is not for everyone but distinctive nonetheless. As is typical for Bovet, the movement is in-house and impressively spec’ed. Notably, it incorporates the patented co-axial double seconds (that’s visible on the front and back), and a five-day power reserve. Sapphire dial The polished titanium case is 44.4 mm in diameter. In the usual Bovet style, the case slopes downwards from 12 to six o’clock, hence the “writing desk” nickname. Though large, it has short lugs for wearability. Offered in green, blue, or brown tint, the sapphire crystal dial reveals the calendar module that’s enhanced by a damping mechanism that deliberately slows the date hand during its return. All of the calendar indications can be adjusted via ...

Zenith’s 1/100th Second Chronograph Inlaid with Tiger’s Eye SJX Watches
Zenith s 1/100th Second Chronograph Dec 10, 2024

Zenith’s 1/100th Second Chronograph Inlaid with Tiger’s Eye

Zenith has given its 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 21 an unusual attire – pusher protectors and a dodecagonal bezel in tiger’s eye mineral stone. Matched with a dial featuring tiger stripes and green accents, the Defy Extreme Jungle retains the trademark double balance wheels of the model. The movement features a conventional timekeeping balance operating at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), and a smaller regulator for the chronograph that beats 10 times as fast, 360,000 beats per hour or 50 Hz, enabling the chronograph to record times with a resolution of up to to 1/100th of a second. Initial thoughts I have long thought that the Defy Extreme was too similar to other, more famous oversized sports chronographs, that is, until I actually got to try on the Defy Extreme Jungle in person. The new Defy still evokes other designs, but it is finely executed, with the minerals stone inlay being notably well done. At the same time, the tiger’s eye elements add some originality to the design, so this easily stands out as the most interesting model in the Defy line. The tiger’s eye components, especially since they are prominently positioned, are likely more fragile than the same on the equivalent titanium model, but they add texture and colour so are arguably worth the sacrifice of practicality. At US$26,900, the Defy Extreme Jungle is pricier than the average Zenith chronograph, but still a reasonable proposition given the exotic material and 1/100th of a second movement. Tige...

Vyntage Horology Debuts Time-Only in Tantalum and Onyx SJX Watches
Dec 3, 2024

Vyntage Horology Debuts Time-Only in Tantalum and Onyx

Vyntage Horology is a micro brand established by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East watch retailer giant best known for organising Dubai Watch Week. Vyntage has so far focused on small-run limited editions, with the latest being the Purity Tantonyx. The 24-piece edition is a time-only executed in a novel combination of exotic materials: a tantalum case with a polished black onyx dial. Inside is a manual-wind La Joux-Perret LJP7380 with a 90-hour power reserve that’s rotated 45 degrees from the usual position, giving the watch its signature four o’clock crown. Initial thoughts On its face, the Tantonyx seems like a familiar proposition from a micro brand. But a couple of things set this apart from the typical offerings in this segment. For one, the materials are unusual, especially at this price point. Granted, the tantalum case and onyx dial make this substantially more expensive than the base model Vyntage watch, but the pricing remains reasonable. The attention to detail in the execution also stands out. It’s obvious in the domed bezel and recessed seconds register (thanks to a two-part dial), but more notable in the finishing of the case, which has brushed flanks and polished tops for contrasting surfaces that are rarely done with tantalum due to its hardness. However, the design is a missed opportunity in terms of minimalism in my opinion. Though the dial is already clean – the model name is Purity after all – I would have gone a step further and eliminate...