Time+Tide
The MB&F; x L’Epée 1839 Albatross brings Jules Verne to life
Steampunk, but in the most MB&F; and L'Epée way possible.The post The MB&F; x L’Epée 1839 Albatross brings Jules Verne to life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
MB&F; and L’Epee 1839 Introduce Steampunk Airship Clock
MB&F;’s sculptural clocks made by L’Epee 1839 have ranged from sci-fi spiders to robots. And now the pair have debuted their most elaborate and expensive desk clock to date, the Albatross. Inspired by the airship of the same name in the Jules Verne novel Robur the Conqueror, the steampunk Albatross does more than tell the time. The clock also incorporates an hourstriker as well as a propellor automaton that activates alongside the hourstriker. Initial thoughts The Albatross is more interesting mechanically than MB&F;’s past collaborations with L’Epee, which were mostly about the form of the clock. This, on the other hand, incorporates mechanics into the design with the propeller automaton linked to the hourstriker. Coupled with the chiming and spinning propellors, the sheer size – 60 cm high and some 17 kg – makes the Albatross a truly impressive object. But the Albatross costs about CHF120,000 before taxes, which is a big number even considering its complexity. While the impressive mechanics and careful construction of the clock arguably justify the price, the price tag puts it in competition with a lot of compelling watches, at least for a watch collector. For someone looking for an impressive desktop object or the ultimate in home decor, this has arguably less competition. Jules Verne’s airship Made of steel, brass, and aluminium, the Albatross contains two separate movements. The first is a twin barrel, eight-day movement for the timekeeping and hourstriker...
Monochrome
Introducing - The L’Epée 1839 X MB&F; Albatross, the Friends’ Most Audacious Co-Creation Ever
In 10 years, MB&F; and L’Epée 1839 (recently acquired by LVMH) have created no fewer than 15 clocks, all more impressive and creative than the next. Far from the dust-collecting clock you’ll find on your favourite aunt’s mantlepiece, the collaboration between these two watchmakers has resulted in robots, octopods and sci-fi vessels from another world. […]
SJX Watches
L’Epée 1839 Unveils Racing Car Clock with Built-In Cigar Lighter
Only recently taken over by LVMH, L’Epée 1839 is celebrating its 185th anniversary with the T35, a clock shaped like a 1920s racing car, specifically the acclaimed Bugatti Type 35, which set several records and won numerous Grand Prix. But the T35 is more than a clock – the removable engine block is actually a cigar lighter. Initial thoughts L’Epée 1839 is known for both its own clocks and the many collaborations with brands like MB&F; or Chanel. Although they are actual time-telling devices, L’Epée’s creations are usually elaborate kinetic sculptures which also happen to be built around clockwork. This is the case with the T35 as well. In itself the movement is not very advanced, but the T35 is more of an interactive kinetic sculpture rather than a serious chronometer. Bringing to mind the New York taxi clock made for Tiffany & Co., the T35 is a desktop timekeeper with clever details that allow the owner to interact with, like turning the steering wheel to set the time. The built-in lighter feels kitschy on its face, but is actually a logical and useful addition to the clock given the context. Such a clock will inevitably sit on a desk or coffee table, and cigars are a probable vice for many of the potential owners. A racing machine The T35 takes the shape of a classic racing car with aluminium bodywork on a steel chassis. The bodywork is available in classical racing colours: French racing blue, British racing green, Obsidian black, and Rosso Corsa. The elo...
Fratello
Hands-On With A Horological Poem - The Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Blue
You may have never heard of the French poet René Char (1907–1988), but I’m sure you have heard of some of his friends. He counted among them Albert Camus, Pablo Picasso, and Martin Heidegger. Char’s poems were filled with strange phrases and surreal, provocative images. Trilobe, a Parisian watch brand founded in 2018 by Gautier […] Visit Hands-On With A Horological Poem - The Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Blue to read the full article.
Fratello
This Monday Is A Rest Day In The Tour De France - Time To Check Out The Bravur La Grande Boucle IV
At Swedish watch brand Bravur, they’re really into cycling, and that craziness has materialized in plenty of watches with a cycling theme. The new Bravur La Grande Boucle IV is a steel chronograph in the long-running Grand Tour Chronograph collection. This chronograph subtly tries to capture the spirit of the Tour de France, nicknamed La […] Visit This Monday Is A Rest Day In The Tour De France - Time To Check Out The Bravur La Grande Boucle IV to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Ressence Gets into the Full Lume Dial Game with the Type 5 L
If you’ve spent any time on the watch internet over the last few weeks, it should be no surprise that it’s dive watch season. Hardly a day goes by right now that some new dive watch doesn’t pop up on our radar, or come across our Instagram feeds. Now - with the release of the Type 5 L - Ressence has joined in, harnessing the sheer awesomeness of copious lume to make what may be the coolest version of their Type 5 diver yet. When the Ressence Type 5 was first released in 2015, it was unlike anything else on the market. With its bulbous architecture, oil-filled case, and signature Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) displaying the time, the Type 5 was about as fun as a watch could get. The Type 5 L pushes it even further and is a nice reminder that dive watch design doesn’t have to be static - there are still plenty of pages in the dive watch playbook to explore. On a technical level, the Type 5 L is exactly the watch we’ve seen over the last near-decade, but the technical side of things only tells part of the story. What sets the Type 5 L apart is its fully luminous dial. Without the glow, the Type 5 L looks awfully similar to the gray Type 5G from 2017. It shares the same 46mm wide, 15.5mm thick grade 5 titanium case; the same ETA 2824/2 calibre modified with a ROCS 5 module and magnetic transmission showing hours, minutes, and running seconds (plus oil temperature for good measure); and the same 100 meter water resistance. But it’s a whole other story ...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345 in Rose Gold
Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a patent for the tourbillon on June 16, 1801. On the birthday of his celebrated invention, Breguet launches the facelifted, rose gold iteration of the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345. The brand’s most formidable tourbillon, the Double Tourbillon is a remarkable timepiece that blends forward-thinking mechanics with traditional craftsmanship, all presented in a striking, oversized case. Initial thoughts While the newest iteration of the Double Tourbillon collection is not actually new (the original version was launched four years ago), the complication never ceases to amaze. The watch is an impressive demonstration of artisanal skill, with open worked movement revealing a plethora of decorated surfaces, each showcasing a different finishing technique. The three-dimensional calibre is built upon an 18k rose gold main plate that’s been engine turned with a new wave guilloche developed by Breguet. And the reverse of the watch reveals the bridges of the movement that are entirely hand engraved with a detailed scene of 19th century Paris. Beyond the artisanal finishes, the movement is a highly technical affair. It features no dial, with the movement forming the face. Not only does it include two tourbillon regulators, each with its own going train and barrel, but half of the movement itself is geared to rotate once every 12 hours. The watch is large for the classic Breguet style, but the chunky case is i...
Monochrome
First Look - A New Rose Gold Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge”
Abraham-Louis Breguet is often regarded as one of the founding fathers of modern watchmaking. Through numerous inventions and the so-called unmistakable signs, he firmly imprinted his mark on the industry. On this date, June 26th, 1801, A.L. Breguet patented what would become his most famous invention, the tourbillon regulator. As a tribute to the genius […]
SJX Watches
Business News: LVMH Acquires Clockmaker L’Epée 1839
Known for its three-dimensional clocks ranging from the Batmobile to a Chanel sculpture, L’Epee 1839 has carved out a niche for itself as the clockmaker to leading watch and luxury brands. Now it becomes part of LVMH, the luxury conglomerate that owns Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. The acquisition expands the portfolio of the LVMH Watches Division to encompass an entirely new product category that is small but lucrative and also high profile. Clocks are increasingly a must-have offering for major luxury brands. One of L’Epee’s most recent creations was the Louis Vuitton Montgolfière Aéro clock (pictured above). Another of L’Epee’s creations, the Tiffany Taxi. Image – Tiffany & Co. Business as usual LVMH has acquired the parent of L’Epee, Swiza, which also makes clocks under the Swiza and Matthew Norman brands. Arnaud Nicolas, who has been chief executive and creative director of L’Epee since 2009, will continue leading the company. Despite the change in ownership, the clockmaker’s work for other brands, which have included MB&F; and Ulysse Nardin, will continue after the acquisition. However, L’Epee will certainly work with more brands in the LVMH stable, having already created clocks for Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., and Hublot. “L’Epée has initiated a number of watchmaking partnerships that we will maintain and develop with Arnaud Nicolas [chief executive and creative director of L’Epee],” says Frédéric Arnault, the chairman of LV...
Time+Tide
The Breguet Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge celebrates tourbillon day
There's no better way to celebrate Breguet's most important innovation than with the brand's most extreme take on the complication.The post The Breguet Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge celebrates tourbillon day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph ‘La Gara’ dial
The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph "La Gara Dial" is a classic design and an elegant addition to the Mille Miglia collection. For those who appreciate the romance of the open road and the tick of a classic motorsports chronograph, the "La Gara Dial" is a fitting tribute to the legacy of the Mille Miglia race. Perhaps a nice memorabilia particularly for participants of the race. But for regular watch fans, the watch may appear less competitive in its price category, primarily dragged down by its choice of movement.
Worn & Wound
An Icon Turns 100: A Century of the Montblanc Meisterstück
For over a century, Montblanc’s Meisterstück fountain pen has left an indelible mark on the world of pens. As a pen guy myself, it’s hard to overstate this fact. Since its introduction in 1924, the Meisterstück, aptly translated as “masterpiece” in German, has long been the hero product among a series of hero products from the German brand. To put it mildly: when you close your eyes and think of Montblanc, you’re undoubtedly thinking of a Meisterstück. This year, the brand is celebrating their 100th anniversary. A milestone for any company, it’s especially exciting to ring in the centenary with the Meisterstück due to its intersection of style, performance, and luxury. Origins and Evolution of the Meisterstück To understand the Meisterstück, we must first understand the company background of Montblanc. In the early part of the 20th Century, Montblanc didn’t have the same cachet as it does today. The market was inundated and while the brand was known as a reliable pen, it wasn’t the luxury brand we know and love today. In fact, Montblanc wasn’t even Montblanc then. The founding company was called Simplo and produced a variety of writing instruments at price points that were more economical to keep up with market competition. But Simplo had big plans and in 1924, the Meisterstück was added as the hero product which defined their luxury category. In a short time, the Meisterstück would be the springboard which would launch a range of luxury goods...
Fratello
Taking A Spin With The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV To Start The Last Week Of The Giro D’Italia
The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV is a chronograph from the Grand Tour series of the cycle-crazy Swedish brand. The color of the sub-dials and the central chronograph seconds hand clearly state, “I am a Giro d’Italia Watch” (please read this in your best Italian accent). Since the famous stage race is in its final […] Visit Taking A Spin With The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV To Start The Last Week Of The Giro D’Italia to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The March LA.B Bonzer Bronze Edition
French brand March LA.B was founded in 2008 by three partners with a strong focus on retro design and a passion for surfing. With roots in Los Angeles and Biarritz (hence the LA.B acronym), March LA.B is not the easiest brand to pigeonhole. Its repertoire of shaped watches and surf watches have a twang of […]
Fratello
#TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget
It has wide, massive lugs, a Grand Seiko vibe, a mechanical hand-wound movement, a date with magnifier, and no lume, just the contrasting beauty of the sunburst dial and polished hands and indexes. Oh, and let’s not forget an attractive price tag. You might say these things make this Seiko Cronos Self Dater a perfect […] Visit #TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget to read the full article.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. After two battles featuring Rolex and Tudor, it’s time to move on to something else. This week, we put two classic dress watches up against each other. Both came out at Watches and Wonders, and both impressed journalists and watch fans alike. Robert-Jan’s pick […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green to read the full article.
Fratello
Trilobe Introduces The Stellar Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Series
Trilobe is a brand that impresses watch fans more and more with every release. This year is no different for the young Parisian watchmaker. Building on the success of the Les Matinaux collection, Trilobe introduces its first complicated watch. The Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Series is its first take on a moonphase watch. But if […] Visit Trilobe Introduces The Stellar Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise Series to read the full article.
Fratello
L.U. Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Beauties In Lucent Steel
It’s been a lot of fun to witness the resurgence of Chopard over the past several years. It has transformed into a brand I look forward to hearing from during Watches and Wonders. For 2024, L.U. Chopard has brought us two gorgeous pieces in Lucent Steel. These watches, with their sector dials, will likely prove […] Visit L.U. Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Beauties In Lucent Steel to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Chopard goes green again for the L.U.C XPS Forest Green
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024, this verdant Chopard is an elegant blend of traditional and modern aesthetics.The post Chopard goes green again for the L.U.C XPS Forest Green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bilancia ‘La Collina’: Sensational Syrah Wine from Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
The gem in the Bilancia wine treasury is six hectares known as Roy’s Hill. This is where the Syrah vineyard known as La Collina is planted. And in Ken Gargett's opinion, it is sensational!
Revolution
Louis Vuitton’s High Watchmaking Novelties 2024 With Michel Navas, La Fabrique Du Temps LV
Join Wei, Eleonor, and Michel Navas, Co-founder and Master Watchmaker of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, as they explore the brand’s latest high watchmaking novelties of 2024. For over two decades, Louis Vuitton has been steadfast in its pursuit of excellence in watchmaking-an endeavor steeped in both tradition and innovation. With a commitment to […]
Revolution
LVMH Watch Week 2024 Exclusive: Gerald Genta & Daniel Roth Revival By La Fabrique Du Temps LV
In a landmark move reflective of its commitment to heritage and innovation, LVMH announced in 2023 the revival of two revered independent watch brands: Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta. Under the expert guidance of La Fabrique Du Temps Louis Vuitton, these iconic brands are set to reclaim their positions at the forefront of haute horlogerie. […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The Brilliant And Affordable Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NY0120-01EE And NY0129-58LE
I wrote an article on the best Seiko watches under €500 a few weeks ago. The Japanese brand used to rule the “affordable watch” category, especially with diving watches. But with Seiko slowly moving upmarket, that territory is now open for other brands to conquer. An obvious pick is Citizen. The fellow Japanese brand offers […] Visit Hands-On: The Brilliant And Affordable Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NY0120-01EE And NY0129-58LE to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Business News: Singapore Retailer Cortina Opens Service Centre
Cortina Holdings has just inaugurated Horology Services, the Singapore retailer’s first after-sales service centre. Situated at the Capitol mall, the centre encompasses a sizeable 142 sq m and serves as the retailer’s principal location for maintaining and repairing the timepieces of the brands represented by Cortina as well as its subsidiary, Sincere Fine Watches. Vertically integration of SAV Since its founding in 1972, Cortina has grown into one of the world’s largest watch retailers, with a presence concentrated in Southeast Asia, with branches as far as Hong Kong, Taiwan and Australia. In 2020, Cortina bolstered its network by acquiring Sincere, which is best known for its Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) specialty stores focused on independent watchmakers like Parmigiani and Greubel Forsey. The new service centre is thus a natural progression in cementing Cortina’s status as a leading retailer by enhancing the client experience before and after a purchase. The limited edition Cartier Baignoire made for Cortina’s 50th anniversary in 2022. Comfortably furnished and equipped with a private room for one-on-one consultations, Horology Services was conceived to meet international standards for service centres. The centre is equipped with the full suite of equipment and tools, and staffed by a full team of watchmakers and technicians, who are either certified by watchmaking schools or watch brands. As a result, the centre can provide the full range of services, st...
Worn & Wound
The New Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Celebrates a Big Anniversary by Updating a Mid Century Classic
It’s like we always say: every year is an anniversary year. As surely as the sky is blue and the tax bill comes every spring, watch brands will celebrate major (and not so major, to be honest) anniversaries with new watch releases. This year, Longines is celebrating what is actually a fairly big milestone for their Conquest collection, which turns 70 in 2024. This line is pure mid century elegance, which in my opinion never really went out of fashion, even if sportier watches have been the focus of the watch world for much of the last decade. The Conquest watches immediately evoke a period of time when you could wear a fedora unironically, and smoke cigarettes indoors. A simpler time, before we felt the need to place watches into distinct categories, and they were just watches. You get a little taste of that with the new Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, as well as a very cool execution of a common complication. The new reference seen here is a reinterpretation of a watch that made its debut in 1959 and featured a power reserve indicator in the center of the dial, which functioned with two rotating discs. The modern version uses the same principle as the watch from the 50s, with a power reserve indicator tied to an uncoiling disc marked with a baton shaped indicator that tracks the movement’s power over the course of its 64 hours of running time. Seeing the power reserve at the center of the dial seems remarkably intuitive, and Longines, for their part, take c...
Time+Tide
Bausele & seconde/seconde/ team up on a perspective-shifting dive watch that’ll scare (or delight) surfers
seconde/seconde/ teams up with Australia's very own Bausele on a "bipolar" dive watch with a trick seconds hand.The post Bausele & seconde/seconde/ team up on a perspective-shifting dive watch that’ll scare (or delight) surfers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Bvlgari Launches Two Octo Finissimo Models At LVMH Watch Week - One In Yellow Gold, The Other In 904L Steel
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo isn’t a watch that really needs a lot of color to stand out. Its extremely flat and geometric design already makes it one of the most original watches to wear. However, for this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Bvlgari is launching two colorful versions of its 10-year-old icon. The first is a […] Visit Bvlgari Launches Two Octo Finissimo Models At LVMH Watch Week - One In Yellow Gold, The Other In 904L Steel to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Franck Muller Adds Manga Dragons to the Cintrée Curvex
Now best known for its extravagant and occasionally provocative timepieces, Franck Muller tapped on a Japanese artist who specialises in manga-style paintings for the Cintrée Curvex Ryoko Kaneta Dragon Limited Edition. This collaboration, which will only be available at the brand’s stores in Asia, transforms the mythical beast into a playful character with doll-like features typical of Ryoko Kaneta’s work, with 12 dragons on a turquoise dial bearing the brand’s signature oversized Arabic numerals. Initial thoughts Unlike most dragon-themed watches that take themselves seriously, the Cintrée Curvex dragon edition leaves behind the traditional, regal portrayal of the creature as seen in Parmigiani’s automaton clock or the recent Breguet Classique. Instead it’s a fun timepiece that blends the trademark Franck Muller style with contemporary Asian art and a trendy colour palette. A look through Ms Kaneta’s portfolio shows her aesthetic has been successfully ported over onto the watch, with the dragon characters sharing the manga-doll appearance of her characters. Unlike most character-theme collaborations that feature bold figures at the dial’s centre, the manga dragons are integrated into the numerals, evoking the traditional concept of dragons navigating through the clouds. That said, I would have liked Ms Kaneta to add her touch to the branding on the dial for a more complete visual makeover. With a price of around US$13,400, this limited edition is somewha...
Fratello
What A WWII-Inspired Military Watch Means To A 21st-Century Enthusiast
Why you own a particular watch is a deeply personal affair. No one should tell you what you should collect and wear, nor should anyone suggest how you should live your life. You like what you like, and you do what you want to do. That’s why, in this article, I will only tell you […] Visit What A WWII-Inspired Military Watch Means To A 21st-Century Enthusiast to read the full article.