Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Royal Oak Supposedly Worn By Chanel Designer And Goth Lord Karl Lagerfeld
I donned my best all-black outfit to size it up at Phillips HQ in Geneva before it heads to auction this Friday.
Results for Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève)
23,569 articles · 172 videos found · page 240 of 792
Hodinkee
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Come behind the scenes with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Catherine Rénier at the BEST booth of Watches and Wonders
Anyone that’s attended a major watch fair – Baselworld, SIHH, Watches and Wonders, less so Geneva Watch Days – knows that the scale and grandeur of these shindigs pushes the bounds of belief. Impossible is nothing when it comes to the extravagant architecture and wild scope of vision that brands unveil to help get their … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Come behind the scenes with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Catherine Rénier at the BEST booth of Watches and Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece Unique
François-Paul Journe is perhaps the most successful living independent watchmaker – so successful that some of his watches have entered the same “hype” territory occupied by watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – which might mean that casting about for an overlooked F.P. Journe watch is a fool’s errand. But the brand does have a few hidden gems in amongst its past offerings, with the Zodiaque being one such watch. And Phillips’ upcoming Geneva sale has a one-off version that I had never seen in person until recently, the Zodiaque “Children Action” – which will be sold to benefit the titular children’s charity. The original Zodiaque. Image – Phillips The original Zodiaque debuted in 2004, just five years after the brand was founded, in a limited edition of 150 pieces. Despite its distinctive aesthetic and esoteric complication, the Zodiaque never enjoyed the success of its peers at the time, perhaps because of that very complication, which indicates the signs of zodiac with an annual calendar ring. Remember that in the years after the brand’s founding in 1999, F.P. Journe was merely a startup founded by a talented watchmaker with a peculiar personality; his watches weren’t exactly flying off the shelves. Yet Mr Journe still created this one-off watch for a good cause, which eventually became a yearly affair with the brand contributing unique watches to several charities, including subsequent timepieces for Children Action and of course the rec...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Hands-on with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, SBGW285 and SBGE277
This past Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko dropped a ton of really cool novelties. There was the Evolution 9 chronographs and GMTs, the white lion high jewellery piece and, of course, the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. But that first wave of releases wasn’t enough for the Japanese manufacture. While not technically Watches and Wonders … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hands-on with the Grand Seiko SBGW283, SBGW285 and SBGE277 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MEET THE TEAM: Zach (and Andrew) share their top 5 picks from Watches & Wonders
When I went to Geneva for Watches & Wonders, the best way to describe the journey would be a horological food coma of bliss. Never before had I engaged with so many brands and timepieces at once, a delectable 40-brand course meal for a week straight. Of course, with such a wide menu of watches … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Zach (and Andrew) share their top 5 picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders
A couple of years ago, when I first started @timepeacelove, my Instagram page dedicated to my passion for watches, I made a joke to my wife saying, “Hey, maybe one day I’ll get the chance to experience Watches and Wonders in Geneva.” I would have never thought that day would come, but my experience last month … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Yes, I flip watches. So what’s the big deal?”
EDITOR’S NOTE: We recently ran the first parts of our Watch Confessions series in which Time+Tide interviewed anonymous members of the community to get them to share their darkest watch-related secrets. In this latest instalment, which you can read about in Issue 4 of NOW magazine, one man explains why he chooses to flip watches with … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Yes, I flip watches. So what’s the big deal?” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Go Behind The Scenes of Our Watches & Wonders Coverage
HODINKEE staff photographer Tiffany Wade turns her camera on the quieter moments of our big trip to Geneva.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph
Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers and Greubel Forsey
There has been a lot to cover of late and leading up to Watches & Wonders Geneva there is plenty more on the horizon. So today I want to highlight two new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers that recently launched, as well as the new Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe that launched earlier today. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers and Greubel Forsey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green
Jaeger-LeCoultre are seemingly incapable of producing a watch that doesn’t melt the hearts and wallets of watch enthusiasts worldwide, as they have proven again with the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in a glowing green. The watch comes in three dial colours with matching straps including deep blue and luscious burgundy, but this green machine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Chinese Artisans Team Up Under the Aegis of Celadon
Having commissioned a series of double-crown, cloisonné world time wristwatches from Andersen Genève, Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee now turns to Chinese artisans for his latest collaborative project. The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century is the work of AHCI member Lin Yong Hua and Xiong Songtao, a third-generation enameller who created the cloisonné dial. Initial thoughts The watchmakers are proficient at making – and marketing – métiers d’art, but Chinese watchmakers are fairly new entrants to the high-end of this field, making the Century an unusual offering. The Century is an entirely different animal from the low-end watches that are often associated with the made-in-China label. Both in terms of the dial and movement, the Century takes things to another level, while possessing a refined, clean style. The entire dial is cloisonné enamel comprised of an impressive amount of gold wire to form the intricate motif. In fact, the fine cloisonné work resembles brush strokes from afar. It’s certainly appears to be top class work in both complexity and quality. And the movement is comparable in quality, which is unsurprising since it was developed by Mr Lin, who is best known for his quirky, hand-made wristwatches. The finishing is excellent, as evidenced by the rounded bevelling on the three-quarter plate. But while the Century does well in intrinsic quality, it seems to lack identity. While the watch is well designed and finely made – especially con...
SJX Watches
Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022)
A distinctive gentleman whose trademark outfit always called for multiple scarves looped around his neck, Giovanni Zavota was one of the old-school Italian dealers who shaped vintage watch collecting of the late 20th century, having sold some of the most important wristwatches – amongst them a steel ref. 1518 and the platinum ref. 2499. He passed away on 15 January, aged 69. I would see him each time I went to Geneva for the auctions and he was clearly an original character. He was most comfortable conversing in Italian, which I speak none of, so we only spoke briefly a few times. But one occasion that stands out in my memory is when I encountered him in Italy and he was wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a cloisonné dial – and a matching bracelet – on one wrist, and on the other he had on a crisp and enormous Longines Lindbergh. Two watches of different style and disparate value, yet each interesting and important in its own way – a sure sign the man had good taste and understood historical significance. Giovanni Zavota. Photo – Auro Montanari A testament to his place in the world of vintage watches – specifically the pre-internet world – was the turnout at his funeral, which took place on January 18 in Collecchio, a small town just south of Parma where he had spent his summers as a boy. Almost a hundred people turned up, including family and old friends, but also a large contingent that exemplified the Italian-centric, late-20th century world of vinta...
Hodinkee
Beginner's Guide: A Complete Newbie Overdoses On Patek Philippe
In order to understand watches, I knew I had to understand Patek. So I went to Geneva for a tour of the brand's mothership museum. Lesson one: Don't show up late to a place that's all about timekeeping.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Vacheron Constantin is starting the year in a big way with the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. A double-faced grand complication, the Bacchus is part of the brand’s annual collection of one-of-a-kind timepieces. The Bacchus ranks amongst the most complex watches produced by Vacheron Constantin, thanks to the cal. 2755 GC16 that’s made up of over 800 parts. Though the Geneva watchmaker has used variations of the same calibre in past watches, the Bacchus is unusual even amongst its siblings because of its case decoration, which includes both hand engraving and gem setting, forming a grapevine motif in relief on both sides of the case. The star chart display on the reverse of the Bacchus Initial thoughts The Bacchus is the sort of grand complication that makes a statement, belonging in the same category of watch as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon. It’s extremely large, very complex, and impossible to miss on the wrist. Though a one-off creation, the Bacchus is not the first two-faced grand complication from Vacheron Constantin. In fact, several past models, notably the Phoenix of 2018, have contained variations of the same calibre found in the Bacchus. But the Bacchus has a unique decoration, in fact one of the most elaborate to date. The minute repeater is activated by turning the bezel, leaving the case free of a traditional slide Vacheron Constantin’s grand complications are frequently engraved, but Bacchus seems to be the first – or at least...
Time+Tide
Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus
Earlier this year, Patek Philippe announced that the Nautilus, the most sought-after watch in the entire world, was being retired. The acclaimed reference would have one final victory lap – which many of us believed was a pair of Nautilus watches with olive-green dials, one with a diamond bezel. VIP collectors chased after the duo, … ContinuedThe post Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG
A member of Switzerland’s diplomatic corps for some two decades – he was the Swiss Consul General in New York City until 2007 – Raymond Loretan was tapped to become the President of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Just before the 2021 awards ceremony took place in Geneva, we sat down with Mr Loretan to get his thoughts on how the GPHG has evolved and where it is going. Raymond Loretan making the opening speech at the 2021 GPHG ceremony. Photo – GPHG Benjamin Teisseire: You have overseen profound changes at the GPHG since you took over as president in 2018. Is everything going as planned? Raymond Loretan: So far yes. We created the Academy last year and it represents a big change in paradigm for the Grand Prix. It worked well with the 350 members but with some glitches, which we have now learned from. This year, it worked even more smoothly with over 500 members of the Academy. No technical issues with the digital platforms and academicians were involved at all stages in the selection process. But the goal is to double this number of academicians in the next two to three years. That’s because it is the way to assert the three principles on which the Grand Prix is built. First of all is the Neutrality that has been questioned in the past. With this new way of working, this important pillar will be guaranteed. The second one is Universality. The more people coming from all over the world, the better this diversity will be represented. And it...
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches
Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1
Widely regarded as important, the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch was a landmark when it was unveiled in 1992. The first wristwatch to incorporate a grande et petite sonnerie, widely regarded as the pinnacle of complications, the Grande Sonnerie is indeed a feat of miniaturisation, construction, and finishing. And now the very first example is slated to go under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. Initial thoughts Originally conceived as a homage of early 20th century Swiss watchmaking – the very sort of watches Mr Dufour worked on early in his career – the Grande Sonnerie revered today for many reasons, but it really is all about two accomplishments. The wristwatch (left), and its pocket watch counterpart One is miniaturisation – this was the first ever wristwatch grande sonnerie. Prior examples were all pocket watches and correspondingly large. And the second, arguably more important quality, is its movement finishing. Mr Dufour decorated each component of the movement exceedingly well. So well, in fact, that this is arguably better finished than even the finest examples of grande sonnerie pocket watches made by brands like Patek Philippe. In the metal the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch is eminently classical, and also fairly large at 41 mm in diameter. In fact, when it premiered in 1992 the Grande Sonnerie would have been massive – the typical men’s dress watch was barely 35 mm then. The Grande Sonnerie is almost a pocket watch with lugs...
Revolution
4 Dufours: Contemporary Watchmaking’s Most Important Creations
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has revealed that its upcoming sale this fall, The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV, will feature not one but four extraordinary Philippe Dufour creations. Wei gives us the proper run down while the auction house came through Singapore for their Geneva Watch Auction: XIV showcase.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Limited Edition collection celebrates the real Top Guns
IWC rarely shy away from a limited edition, especially not when it’s in celebration of military icons. New to the IWC catalogues is a batch of Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Editions that celebrate three F/A-18 Super Hornet flying squadrons of the US Navy - the Royal Maces, the Tophatters, and the Blue Angels. The dial As … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Limited Edition collection celebrates the real Top Guns appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Available in the Shop: All the way with the Tudor Black Bay
The Tudor Black Bay is universally loved and offers incredible diversity and great value. Incredibly the line is also less than 10 years old. We explore how this heritage diver hasn’t just ended up on the wrist of David Beckham, but also come to dominate the great Geneva-based brand’s catalogue and evolve beyond its retro-diver roots.
Time+Tide
A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal
The thrum of the horizontally opposed twin engine spins into a whine when the traffic lights go green. It’s a beautiful spring day in Sydney and the old BMW motorbike is in its element as I wind along a coastal road, with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean flanking the cliffs. I look down and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula SuperSport brings real Super-compressor Diver funtionality
Super-compressor styled divers exist in many microbrand catalogues. The wearability of the design and the integration of the timing bezel are two of the main reasons they are so popular. However, many of these examples lack the real functionality their vintage-inspired references had. That’s why when a brand goes to the extra lengths to create … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula SuperSport brings real Super-compressor Diver funtionality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Explainer: the new Louis Moinet Space Revolution
We take a comprehensive first look at the new Louis Moiner Space Revolution. A watch which is currently a candidate at the category of “Tourbillon” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2021. Based on one to one discussions with Jean-Marie Schaller, owner and creative director of Louis Moinet, using press release photographs. FirstRead More
Quill & Pad
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time
Trilobe, in collaboration with French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, created a clock with an aesthetic designed to jar you awake for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction. And Trilobe's Nuit Fantastique, currently competing in the Petite Aiguille category of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, represents the next step in aesthetic direction for Trilobe. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look at both.
Hodinkee
John Mayer On Watches: My Thoughts On The Bell & Ross BR126 Chronograph, By John Mayer
Here, John tells us about a watch he encountered for the first time while sitting on the jury of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve, and while it didn't take home an award, it was the one piece that really stuck with him.
Hodinkee
Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller
Everything you ever wanted to know about the most advanced Rolex tool watch in the world.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world?
EDITOR’S PICK: “Audemars on my wrist, bustdown. We poppin’ bottles like I scored the winning touchdown….” As Meek Mill demonstrated in I’m a Boss, rappers have long held a deep fascination with luxury watches. But given their massive followings and proclivity for namedropping brands in their lyrics, do hip-hop’s big names influence consumers’ buying habits. To … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON – The Farer Segrave Monopusher Chronograph delivers a big eye with a colourful twist
Pride is not an emotion I often overplay when it comes to my Britishness, but last week while dipping in and out of appointments around Switzerland’s prettiest city for Geneva Watch Days I was brimming with the stuff – emanating predominately from my left wrist. You’ll be hard pressed to find a place where the … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON – The Farer Segrave Monopusher Chronograph delivers a big eye with a colourful twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.