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Monochrome
One of the most classical and complex yet satisfying complications to master is, of course, the Perpetual Calendar. It was Patek Philippe who first put a perpetual calendar pocket watch movement into a wristwatch in 1925, but the history of the Quantième Perpétuel, as it’s called in French and explains why it’s often abbreviated to […]
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite stories in independent watchmaking over the last few years has been the evolution of Garrick, the Norwich based brand specializing in meticulously finished, custom made watches. In a relatively short time, the brand has transformed itself into something of an experimental haute horlogerie specialist. The first Garrick watch I can recall writing about was the S4, upon its announcement, which represented the entry point into the brand at around £4995 (in 2021). That watch was, and is, impressive, with a great deal of hand-work and a dizzying level of customization possible. But it would have been tough to predict that just four years later Garrick would be playing at another level entirely, flirting with GPHG honors, and offering bespoke watches that, if made by other, larger brands or more established watchmakers, would likely have price tags sailing into the six figures. The new S3 Deadbeat Seconds release feels like a statement of purpose from Garrick. It is, as the brand puts it, “the pinnacle of Garrick ownership.” The watch itself is effectively a combination of two ideas the brand has been playing with over the last few years, the S3 Mk II (the GPHG finalist from last year featuring a completely openworked dial, focusing on the brand’s finishing capabilities), and the deadbeat seconds complication, as seen in the S2 Deadbeat. The new watch, then, features a deadbeat complication but is given an aesthetic treatment similar to the S3 Mk II, w...
Worn & Wound
The post Just a minute with the Brew X Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Being the cradle of watchmaking, France is bound to have some good watchmakers - and it does.The post 19 of the best French watch brands keeping the historic craft alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Today, we’ll go hands-on with the new Ianos Dytis, the final diver in a trilogy of watches from this independent brand. Because of its more compact size, the Dytis may prove to be the most popular yet. This doesn’t take away from prior releases, but the trend toward smaller watches is clear. I remember seeing […] Visit Hands-On With The New Ianos Dytis Divers to read the full article.
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Monochrome
Watches & Wonder is just behind us… and that means a huge number of new watches for us to cover in articles and videos, and for you to discover. And now, we are planning for the second year, an event where you can get some hands-on time with some of these new timepieces if you […]
Teddy Baldassarre
If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...
Time+Tide
The Swiss brand continues its value-packed releases with a complicated take.The post Raymond Weil’s Freelancer Complete Calendar brings complications to the masses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It’s nice to review a truly affordable watch like the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik every so often. After all, entry-level mechanical timepieces are great for daily wear and can provide a start for new collectors. Sternglas does these watches well and adds thoughtful details, including attractive dials with uncommon lume colors. Today, we’ll look at the […] Visit Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Edition Marine to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...
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Worn & Wound
The next stop in our ongoing celebration of 10 years of Windup, the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco, is now right around the corner and if you’re like us, you’ve only got one thing on your mind: what watches am I going to see? Whether you are planning to stop at specific brands on your tour of the Fort Mason venue, or your plan is to wander through the nearly 90 different watch and EDC brands, today we’re highlighting a selection of standout projects from our Lead Sponsors. As always, Windup is free and open to the public, thanks in large part to these brands who continue to support the enthusiast community. You can see all of these brands and more at the 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 2: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 4: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public You can see every sponsor on the Windup Watch Fair website. While you’re on the site, be sure to sign up for Windup updates to make sure you continue to get the latest info in advance of and throughout the Windup weekend. Here’s that sneak peek at the watches of our 2025 Lead Sponsors in San Francisco! anOrdain anOrdain is proud to celebrate the crafts of watchmaking and fired arts by introducing the Model 2 Porcelain. The Model 2 offers a true porcelain dial that was developed in-house after years of research aided by master potters in Stoke-on-Trent, England. Each dial is lovingly handcrafted by p...
Teddy Baldassarre
There have always been thin watches, and always watchmakers who have dedicated their craft to reduce the essentials of timekeeping, as well as other additional complications, into as slimmed down and wearable a package as humanly (and horologically) possible. Lately, however, as 21st century technological developments impact watchmaking as they have every other industry, it seems there are more exceptionally thin watches than ever before -some of them aimed at a customer simply seeking an elegantly understated and luxuriously lightweight timepiece for regular wear, others almost defiantly unobtainable to all but a few, but intended to boldly shatter records for both thinness and complexity. We offer some of both types in our roundup of ultra-thin watches below (which we're defining as 10mm thick or under, based on average watch sizes), in ascending order of case thickness, starting from the top with the current category record holders. Under 2mm Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari (1.75mm) In the world of high horology, Richard Mille has been pushing the envelope in the areas of materials, technologies, and (let’s face it) prices for quite some time. In 2022, the brand probably best known for making the watch that tennis champ Rafael Nadal wears to play in Grand Slams entered a new partnership with Ferrari, and the result was, to many watch enthusiasts’ surprise, the current record-holder for world’s thinnest watch. The RM UP-01 Ferrari is an almost unimaginable 1.7...
Hodinkee
Single-handed and enamel-dialed, the Souscription 2025 pays respectful homage to Abraham-Louis Breguet's most accessible masterpiece.
Teddy Baldassarre
Graduation season is just around the corner, and, given the title of this article, I’m pretty sure you can already tell where I’m going with this. Whether you yourself are about to don a cap and gown, or you know a graduate who’s preparing to celebrate the end of one chapter and the beginning of a new one, a watch makes a great gift to mark a transition from one phase of life into the next. It’s a tale as old as time (or, at least, as old as watches). So, to give you some graduation gifting inspiration - or, in case you need to provide some loved ones with a little guidance on the graduation gift you might want - I’ve rounded up various watches at (I hope) every price point with grads in mind. Some key elements I’ve looked for in making this list are practicality, versatility, and styles of watches that could make a one-and-done collection in themselves for those who are new to watches, or those beginning a collection. And if you aren’t celebrating graduation season yourself, but are in need of a nudge to celebrate some other key moment in your life - well, you’re welcome here, too. Under $500 Casio Vintage ABL100WE-1AVT Price: $79.95 Case: 37.9mm. Water Resistant: Yes. Movement: Quartz battery Going by ascending order on price feels like the most obvious way to order this guide, so I will begin with a watch not just under $500, but under $100. For those who are possibly just dipping their toes into the idea of wearing a watch regularly (this is t...
Monochrome
This year, one of the most important names in the watch industry is celebrating its 250th anniversary. I’m of course talking about Breguet, the brand created by the all-important Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1775, Quai de l’Horloge in Paris (even though he was Swiss, A.L. Breguet worked most of his life in Paris except during the […]
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Time+Tide
The new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 celebrates the brand's 250th anniversary with a watch inspired by its 1790s pocket watches.The post The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 single-handedly kicks off the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It’s 2025, and dress watches are in! But that doesn’t mean you have to dust off your tuxedo. In fact, it’s quite the opposite: the dress watch’s link to formal attire has never been less relevant than it is today. Dress watches - both in the stricter definition and in adjacent style - are gaining […] Visit Fratello Talks: Is 2025 The Year Of The Dress Watch? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
In our current age of disingenuous AI and copyright controversies, sometimes the best way to beat a design thief is to…imitate them right back? In perhaps the cheekiest move we’ve ever seen a watchmaker execute in response to an influx of copycat designs from no-name brands, Studio Underd0g has done just that. Instead of taking the legal route-an endeavour that is time-consuming, costly, and largely pointless in today’s world of mass-production and dropshipping-the British watchmaker has employed a tactful play of horological judo, and produced two new models inspired wholeheartedly by the very designs stolen from them. Enter the Av0cado and Guacam0le, just as colorful, cheerful, and charismatic as the rest of their lineup, with an extra dollop of good humor on the side. Take one look at the knockoffs from a myriad of random “brands” and you’ll see what Studio Underd0g is talking about. The color schemes, design cues, and even text details are shamelessly ripped straight from the authentic watchmaker’s catalog. This is, of course, the sharp side of the double-edged sword for a brand with a visual style as instantly recognizable as Studio Underd0g’s, even given their relative youth as a company; when you create a style that resonates with so many people, you’re bound to have imitators. They haven’t cut any corners with the Av0cado and Guacam0le, though, despite the comedic backstory. Both are in direct response to a company called Proxima’s k...
Monochrome
The Seiko Presage Style60s collection has become a classic for the Japanese watchmaker. Inspired by the Crown Chronograph of 1964, even though we’re talking about time-and-date or GMT models in general, this collection brings vintage flair and casual style at reasonable prices. Recently, Seiko released a pair of new models – SRPL07 and SRPL09 – […]
Monochrome
Last year, Zenith presented the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, a masterful mix of a complete calendar complication with the brand’s high-frequency chronograph movement and a surprising history. Housed in a compact 38mm case to replicate the proportions of the iconic round-shaped A386 from 1969, the three stainless steel models were well received. Today, Zenith introduces […]
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Time+Tide
Zenith's complicated take on the icon gets a new, pinky hue.The post Zenith swaddles the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in elegant rose gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Panerai has unveiled the new Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition PAM01699. This tool-ish 47mm titanium watch is a limited edition of 35 pieces worldwide. However, as its name and €50K+ price suggest, the whole package includes much more than a heavy-duty timekeeper… The relationship between Panerai and the Italian Navy is a key part […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Formex introduced the Essence line in 2018, and two years later, the go-anywhere-do-anything, sporty casual model was fitted with a Muonionalusta meteorite dial, marking the beginning of the Space Rock series that recently saw the addition of the Essence Space Gold reference with a meteorite dial in salmon, achieved via a rose gold deposition through […]
Fratello
About three weeks have passed since this year’s Watches and Wonders, so it’s time to reflect on some of the great introductions we saw during the fair. It’s easiest to divide these into two groups. The first are the watches we admire from a distance, meaning they will likely never be part of our collections […] Visit Getting A Perspective On The New Tudor Black Bay Pro With The White Opaline Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
The Montblanc 0 Oxygen series celebrates explorers and mountaineers. These robust watches often feature worldtimer functionality and a second 12-hour time display. Today’s 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition does too, but it also brings impressive dial-making techniques and advanced materials. With a name like Montblanc, it makes sense that the brand pays […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition to read the full article.
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