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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Aug 5, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon

Originally a series of highly-complicated, extra-large watches for men, the Royal Oak Concept line up has grown to include a handful of women’s watches, including the brand-new and extremely striking Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon. Powered by a hand-wound tourbillon movement, the Royal Oak Concept for women combines the traditional, faceted Concept with the granular Frosted Gold finish conceived by an Italian jeweller for Audemars Piguet, along with a distinctive new dial style of stacked, concentric rings. Initial thoughts When this arrived in my inbox I was quite taken by the styling. Thanks to the shapes and simple finishes, the dial and hands have a clean geometric style that works surprisingly well with the angular Concept case. And the tourbillon serves a higher, aesthetic purpose, with the cage continuing the concentric-ring motif of the dial. With the men’s Concept watches being so large they don’t really fit well on most wrists (especially due to the integrated strap), the women’s Concept at 38.5 mm in diameter probably sits well on most wrists, male or female. Given AP’s mastery of case finishing and the typically high quality of its dials, I expect the watch will be gorgeous in real life. But also given AP’s aggressively high pricing for its watches, I expect this watch to be extremely expensive (prices were not available at press time). Stepped rings The most unusual feature of the new watch is the dial design, a first for the Roy...

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook bronze collection review, with blue, green and brown dials Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook bronze collection Aug 4, 2020

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook bronze collection review, with blue, green and brown dials

By now, you should be familiar with the Rado Captain Cook collection, inspired by a historical Rado reference from the golden age of dive watches. This year, the collection has launched three new references, announcing the Rado Captain Cook bronze for the first time ever. This warmly toned coloured metal complements the already vibrant array … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook bronze collection review, with blue, green and brown dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: A History of the Pulsations Chronograph SJX Watches
Aug 3, 2020

In-Depth: A History of the Pulsations Chronograph

In 1816, Louis Moinet accomplished a first in watchmaking: a timepiece that could precisely track elapsed time. Measuring periodicity on demand had been accomplished before, but the French watchmaker’s invention gave it the functionality and exactness that we expect today. In assessing prototypes, we often tend to forgive their shortcomings and rosily reminisce, rewriting flaws as charms. Moinet’s timepiece, however, was a prescient opus. The layout of the dial had the now-familiar large central hand and elapsed time in subdials. Two pushers controlled the start, stop and reset functions, the power reserve lasted over 30 hours, and the mainspring could be wound while the timing mechanism was engaged to allow for longer timing runs. Most impressive, though, was its precision. Louis Moinet’s compteur de tierces of 1816. Image – Louis Moinet Named the compteur de tierces, or “timer of thirds”, Moinet’s invention ran at 216,000 beats per hour, measuring time down to one-sixtieth of a second. To allow for this ambitious exactitude to be utilised, the central chronograph hand completed revolutions once per second – such that the user could easily see which sixtieth of a second the period in question ended on - and the watch had an extra sub-dial for tracking elapsed seconds in addition to those for the minutes and hours. Whys and wherefores An impressive story, except that it’s missing something. Why did Moinet build it? And what did he use it to measure? A...

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original is a bulletproof diver with a brutal point of difference Time+Tide
Aug 3, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original is a bulletproof diver with a brutal point of difference

Just when you thought it was safe to go in the water with your diver of choice, there’s yet another iteration to consider, and it lurks not only in the deep, but in our marketplace, where you can buy it as of today… Dive watches are perhaps the best served category of watches in the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original is a bulletproof diver with a brutal point of difference appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 of the best smart watches released in 2020, including Timex, Hublot and Bausele Time+Tide
Bausele Most watch enthusiasts are Aug 2, 2020

6 of the best smart watches released in 2020, including Timex, Hublot and Bausele

Most watch enthusiasts are guilty of – at one point or another – scoffing at the advent of the smart watch, confident that they would be a fad. And more confident still that they would never appeal to one with a love for ‘real’ watches. But that hasn’t been the case for most. Whether you … ContinuedThe post 6 of the best smart watches released in 2020, including Timex, Hublot and Bausele appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exploring the 10 Grand Seiko models exclusive to the US market Time+Tide
Grand Seiko models exclusive Jul 31, 2020

Exploring the 10 Grand Seiko models exclusive to the US market

With the United States being one of the largest importers of Swiss watches, it should come as no surprise that Grand Seiko wants to try to grab a larger share of the market. To tackle the US, Grand Seiko has a dedicated team in America - Grand Seiko America - to introduce the wonders of the … ContinuedThe post Exploring the 10 Grand Seiko models exclusive to the US market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Time+Tide
Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Jul 30, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition

The Longines Record Collection is an important pillar of the brand today, representing the clean classicism that is embodied by the brand. The Heritage Collection is popular with the vintage enthusiast, just as the Sport Collection is a favourite of the adventurous type, and the Record Collection is designed to be an everyday companion and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are contenders for the hottest divers of 2020 Time+Tide
Seiko SPB151J Jul 30, 2020

VIDEO: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are contenders for the hottest divers of 2020

One of the most iconic Seiko dive watches of all time is the 6105, a watch that was worn on the wrist of Martin Sheen as he starred as Captain Willard in the blockbuster film Apocalypse Now. This year, Seiko have announced the release of the Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J, two new references based … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are contenders for the hottest divers of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The democratisation of ceramic bezels is complete, you can now buy one for $10 Time+Tide
Jul 28, 2020

The democratisation of ceramic bezels is complete, you can now buy one for $10

It’s been the case for centuries. Pioneers of industry pour plenty into R&D;, stretching themselves thin to find that one small breakthrough that will separate them from the rest. It’s hard to imagine a modern TV without YouTube connectivity, a modern car without ABS, or a modern phone without the world at your fingertips, but … ContinuedThe post The democratisation of ceramic bezels is complete, you can now buy one for $10 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Ref. 103231 is where Bulgari’s two worlds meet Time+Tide
Bulgari s two worlds meet Jul 28, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Ref. 103231 is where Bulgari’s two worlds meet

Bulgari has, for more than a century, been regarded as one of the finest luxury jewellery makers on this blue marble we call earth. Their expertise, attention to detail, passion and visionary design has resulted in some of the most stunning pieces of jewellery and objet d’art imaginable. As such, throughout the 20th century, the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Ref. 103231 is where Bulgari’s two worlds meet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic Jul 27, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet

Often, it is incremental and deliberate design progress - slow to the point that the casual observer might not even notice it - that creates the best products. Tiny changes, layered on one another year after year, are the key to creating an unmistakable visual identity that stands the test of time. It’s a blueprint that … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is American-style Pepsi, bigger, bolder Time+Tide
Ball Watch Company Jul 25, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is American-style Pepsi, bigger, bolder

Editor’s note: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II USA-only edition is available now in the Time+Tide marketplace, alongside the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original, a vintage-styled diver with some similar muscle.  The Ball Watch Company is a brand founded on the principles of practical and robust solutions to timekeeping problems. They were established in the United … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is American-style Pepsi, bigger, bolder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000 Time+Tide
Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze two giant Jul 25, 2020

Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000

Legends are made quickly in the microbrand world. In the case of the Halios Seaforth Bronze, news of its popularity could barely keep up with the speed at which it sold out, and while rumours of a second production run have been teased since January, second-hand Seaforths in bronze have been selling for more than … ContinuedThe post Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SNR045J is like a Rolex “Hulk” Submariner on steroids Time+Tide
Rolex Hulk” Submariner Jul 25, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SNR045J is like a Rolex “Hulk” Submariner on steroids

The first time I held the Seiko Prospex SNR045J in my hands, I laughed, turned to my left, and said to Deputy Editor Nick Kenyon, “What on earth is this?” To describe the limited edition dive watch as evocative is more than an understatement – it conjures up many, many thoughts in my mind, scrambles … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SNR045J is like a Rolex “Hulk” Submariner on steroids appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t like your Granny’s glasses… Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t Jul 23, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t like your Granny’s glasses…

The summer watch is a category as important as pilot’s watch or doctor’s watch, but without the historically derived definition that comes from a serious professional context. A loose definition might include a watch that needs to be robust, waterproof and easy to read after five Aperol Spritzes, but it also needs to be fun … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t like your Granny’s glasses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m in satin-polished stainless steel is simply extraordinary Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m Jul 22, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m in satin-polished stainless steel is simply extraordinary

LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week may have been only seven months ago, but it genuinely feels like it could’ve been last century. Cast your mind back those long, long … long seven months, though, and there seemed to be a general consensus among punters and professional hacks alike that there was one novelty that eclipsed all … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m in satin-polished stainless steel is simply extraordinary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Sex, booze and life insurance with the Tikker “death watch” Time+Tide
Jul 21, 2020

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Sex, booze and life insurance with the Tikker “death watch”

At 3am, the world can seem like a bleak place. Staring at the bedroom ceiling unable to sleep, I find myself wrestling with a familiar stampede of anxieties. All the usual suspects are present and correct: the financial headaches, the career regrets, the mounting horror that my “double crown” is, in fact, a nascent bald … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Sex, booze and life insurance with the Tikker “death watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner? Time+Tide
Omega Planet Ocean Vs Jul 20, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner?

Since 1948, Omega have been perfecting their formula for conquering the sea. What began as a splash-proof dress watch, quickly spiralled into a race for innovation amongst Switzerland’s finest as to who could plunge the deepest depths and still tell the time. The Seamaster line is Omega’s crown jewel in technical achievement and design, with … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Jul 20, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) teamed up with online menswear purveyor Mr Porter to create a wristwatch for the upcoming retro spy film The King’s Man, where the heroes are mainly sharply-dressed spies with canes and signet rings. Set in the years before the First World War, the film doubtlessly called for a watch that is seemingly period-correct – yet obviously one that would appeal to the today’s consumer. The result is the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch, a razor-thin, 4.25 mm wristwatch that takes inspiration from a vintage ultra-thin pocket watch. Initial thoughts At a glance, the watch might seem like a conventional but handsome dress watch. But the case design is outstanding – and compared to JLC’s recent creations, dramatically different.  The case is round with a wide, double-stepped bezel, a feature that gives it an old-school, classic feel. And the stepped bezel also adds presence so that the case doesn’t look too flat. And more unusually, the crown is at 12 o’clock and protected by a triangular bow. And the reason for the crown position is the fact that the watch is essentially a pocket watch with lugs. The origins of the design lie in a 1907 Jaeger-LeCoultre pocket watch, nicknamed “couteau” – French for “knife” – after its thin case with a sharp edge. That said, the “couteau” pocket watch is arguably more widely associated with Cartier, which relied on LeCoultre movements for its watches, which were made by the European Watch & C...

HANDS-ON: The new Longines Flagship Heritage proves that black and gold truly never gets old Time+Tide
Longines Flagship Heritage proves Jul 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: The new Longines Flagship Heritage proves that black and gold truly never gets old

While much of the Longines Heritage collection released this year has been brand new pieces, we have also been treated to an update to an existing model, the Longines Flagship Heritage black dial. The previous expression was released last year to rave reviews from the watch world and featured a charming cream-coloured dial, the warmth … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Longines Flagship Heritage proves that black and gold truly never gets old appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Steel Bulgari Octo Finissimo has started to hit boutiques, game on Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo has started Jul 17, 2020

The Steel Bulgari Octo Finissimo has started to hit boutiques, game on

Editor’s note: Andrew didn’t know it at the time, but LVMH Watch Week in Dubai was the only major watch event in the first half of 2020. What he also didn’t know, but had a strong feeling about, was what the best luxury steel sports watch of the year would be. He picked it early, … ContinuedThe post The Steel Bulgari Octo Finissimo has started to hit boutiques, game on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Play it cool: the rules of “stealth bling” and what they mean for your watch Time+Tide
Jul 17, 2020

Play it cool: the rules of “stealth bling” and what they mean for your watch

“To be truly elegant one should not be noticed.” So said Beau Brummell, who despite ultimately dying as a syphilitic loon, is still regarded as the biggest single influence on contemporary men’s style. This recognition stems, in part, from Brummell creating the forerunner to the modern suit. But equally significant was his insistence that dressing … ContinuedThe post Play it cool: the rules of “stealth bling” and what they mean for your watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale is peak heritage watch perfection Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale Jul 15, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale is peak heritage watch perfection

As a person who writes about and reviews timepieces all day every day, and as an avid enthusiast of horology since my mid-teens, there really isn’t too much that surprises me anymore in the watch world. Very few watches have the ability to stop me in my tracks, or, for lack of a better word, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale is peak heritage watch perfection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Collection Jul 15, 2020

VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, it should come as no surprise that the Longines Heritage Collection has gone from strength to strength over the last few years. An early sign of the success that was to come was the Longines Heritage Diver 1967 in 2015 (a watch that was kindly donated to the Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection, including a more toned Odysseus Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 14, 2020

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection, including a more toned Odysseus

From A. Lange & Söhne, we’ve learned never to predict what might be next. In this clip from our Watch Fair & Chill coverage of Watches & Wonders 2020, you’ll see exactly what we mean. When a wristwatch can cost as much as a house or a McLaren supercar, there are a certain amount of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 A. Lange & Söhne collection, including a more toned Odysseus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Jul 11, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour

This year, Daniel Craig will star as James Bond for the final time in the upcoming No Time To Die film, a blockbuster that is sure to be action packed and offer a much needed reprieve from the dystopian movie that is our current reality. On his wrist for this film will be a watch … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The top 5 Omega James Bond watches of all time as chosen by you Time+Tide
Omega James Bond watches Jul 10, 2020

The top 5 Omega James Bond watches of all time as chosen by you

Editor’s note: Earlier this week, we asked a question on Instagram stories, what is your favourite Omega Bond watch from the last 25 years? Imma jump in here just to say, uh, wut? Where is the Spectre Seamaster 300 Limited Edition (my clear favourite Bond watch)? Where is Pierce’s watches? Any of them! It seems you … ContinuedThe post The top 5 Omega James Bond watches of all time as chosen by you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.