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eBay Finds: A Very Cool Wittnauer, a Classic Diver from Seiko, and Funky Longines Comet Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko 4522-8000  Next up 4 days ago

eBay Finds: A Very Cool Wittnauer, a Classic Diver from Seiko, and Funky Longines Comet

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Favre Leuba Chronograph  Got a nice one to start off this week, this vintage Favre Leuba chronograph. The chunky 35mm cushion case is gold plated, and is in excellent condition. Nice edges and original brushed finish with stainless steel back. The back has the cool Favre Leuba hourglass logo engraved. It has a really nice chocolate brown dial with gold hands and applied gold hour markers. The subdials are also the same color brown, with red accents on the 3 o’clock dial. The large winding crown is also signed with the hourglass logo as it should. The gold and brown combo gives it a rich look. The watch is powered by the venerable Valjoux 23 manual wind chronograph movement. I have a chronograph with the same movement, and I can tell you that it is as buttery smooth as they come. The movement is clean and the watch runs well per the seller.  View auction here Grand Seiko 4522-8000  Next up is a fantastic vintage Grand Seiko 4522-8000 hi-beat dress watch. The 36mm steel case is the epitome of Seiko’s “Grammar of Design” aesthetic, with broad flat planes, razor sharp edges, and a mix of brushed and polished finishes. Often these have been polished, and even the slightest...

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Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne 4 days ago

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen

The watches of A. Lange & Söhne very rarely gets a chance to step out of the stoically traditional design language the brand has established since its relaunch in 1994, but one collection from the brand offers a unique respite from it all. Lange's Lumen series is now in its 16th year since the introduction of the Zeitwerk "Luminous" back in 2010, with its inaugural display of smoked sapphire, blacked-out details, and, of course, luminous numerals for the hour and minute discs. But while that model was the first to be executed, the following Grand Lange 1 Lumen in 2012 was the first model officially given the name "Lumen." Last month, at Watches and Wonders, Lange introduced the seventh Lumen in the lineup, with the new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen. Following the absolutely bonkers Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in Honeygold released in 2025 for the Datograph's twenty-fifth anniversary, this new glow-in-the-dark take on the very complicated Lange 1 model marks a pattern of increasing complication (and resulting price points) for the Lumen series. A closer look reveals that there's a lot going on, and for nerds, it's certainly a feast for the eyes. In person, the cold, austere look of the chunky, 41.9mm case in platinum immediately struck me, as it was a welcome return to the combination of a smoky, black look with white metal from the past two Lumen iterations in Honeygold (that Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon and its predecessor, the Zeitwerk). For a design ...

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Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Fratello
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Another 4 days ago

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

Another Friday, another list. This week, we search for the best alternatives to the classic Cartier Tank Louis Cartier. This industry icon dates back to 1922 and has become one of the most imitated watches in the world. That’s more than enough reason to look at a list of five alternatives that didn’t just copy […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier to read the full article.

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First Look: Seiko 5 Sports Field Series SJX Watches
Seiko 5 Sports Field Series 4 days ago

First Look: Seiko 5 Sports Field Series

Seiko is reinforcing its entry level collection with the 5 Sports Field Series, a range of new models with compass bezels available in a range of dial colours from instrument-like white to brown, which seems to be a popular colour at the moment. While substantively similar to existing Seiko 5 Sports models and equally well priced, the Field Series watches feature serrated compass bezels with a glittering hobnail motif that is both functional — for enhanced grip — and attractive. Left to right: HDB009, HDB008, HDB006, and HDB007. Image – Seiko Initial thoughts The Seiko 5 Sports collection is perhaps the ultimate gateway to watch collecting. It’s the rare entry level watch that could be someone’s last watch as easily as their first. Not everyone is a collector, and some people just want a watch that does what is asked without asking for much in return. The Seiko 5 Sports fits the bill, while opening the door to the larger world of mechanical watches. The Seiko 5 is tangibly appealing in several respects, being one of the most affordable mechanical watches from a fully integrated manufacture. With Seiko, there’s no wondering who made what — the brand even formulates its own luminous compound for the hands, hour markers, and bezel pip instead of relying on the same suppliers as everyone else. Seiko also understands the aesthetic history of the wristwatch because the brand helped write it. This explains some of the subtle details like the tiny serifs on the hour ...

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Introducing: The Armoury And Naoya Hida & Co. Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers" Hodinkee
Naoya Hida 5 days ago

Introducing: The Armoury And Naoya Hida & Co. Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers"

What We Know Usually, we only get one round of Naoya Hida & Co. releases each year, as the company manufactures so few watches per year (though that number is increasing) that one round of releases of 10+ models with around 10 watches per model per year is about the maximum. So imagine my surprise when we got a press release about a new collaboration between Hida-san and his retailer, The Armoury, to be released after the initial wave of releases. They've collaborated before (their "Lettercutter" is one of Hida's most beloved watches). This new release, the Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers," is by far the most unusual and imaginative Naoya Hida watch yet. The watch uses a high-polish stainless steel Type 4 case (36mm by 42.9mm lug-to-lug, 11mm thick) with a central seconds hand, keeping the dial free for artistic expression. Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury, and designer Elliot Hammer say that they were inspired by decorative ornithological dials, botanical motifs, and nature scenes.  As ornithology is the study of birds, my thought immediately went to "singing bird boxes," but hey, I didn't make the watch, so no one asked me. Hammer, who travels to Japan often, said he was taken by their attention to space and timelessness, and in the press release says, "if there are feathers, there must have also once been a bird." Rationale for the design aside, Naoya Hida & Co. has the benefit of a talented in-house engraver, Keisuke Kano, and used the bead-blasted Argentium silver di...

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Mixed Materials: Girard-Perregaux’s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph 5 days ago

Mixed Materials: Girard-Perregaux’s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph

Girard-Perregaux (GP) has expanded the Laureato Chronograph collection with an on-trend two-tone model with a brown dial. For fans of the Laureato — or 1970s-inspired sports watches in general — the new steel-and-rose gold reference strikes a balance between casual and luxurious. While not a limited edition, GP intends to start production with a small run of just 50 pieces. Initial thoughts Earth-tone dials seem to be having a moment. As more watch brands continue to explore brown dials and earth tones, GP has jumped in with its own interpretation. Brown can be a difficult colour to pull off, but the glittering hobnail texture of the Laureato’s dial lends this casual colour a degree of luxury and keeps it from looking dull. The new two-tone variant features the same dimensions as its stablemates, with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 12.16 mm. But at a time when watches seem to be getting smaller, the 42 mm size feels larger than ever. Of course, size has its perks — the large dial opening reveals a richly detailed dial, and the 18k rose gold bezel has plenty of personality at this scale. For those who find the size intimidating on paper, the integrated rubber strap should remove much of the perceived bulk on the wrist. Rubber hasn’t always been considered a luxury material, but today it’s an industry staple, and an appealing alternative to the weight of steel or precious metal. The everyday luxury chronograph The Laureato Chronograph is fundamentally a ...

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Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Omega Constellation ‘95 Fratello
Omega Constellation ‘95 5 days ago

Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Omega Constellation ‘95

In this new series, we will focus on (neo-)vintage watches that can now be found at interesting prices on the secondary market. We will select watches we have come across in our searches for nice pieces or simply those we think could fulfill a certain desire or role in one’s collection. For this first installment, […] Visit Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Omega Constellation ‘95 to read the full article.

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Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph Among 5 days ago

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph

Among the great surprises from Watches & Wonders 2026 was the Monaco Evergraph from TAG Heuer. The new model not only brought some welcome aesthetic changes to the iconic square chronograph, but also benefits from a core rethinking of the chronograph mechanism itself.  The Evergraph’s movement is notable in many respects, but the most interesting is the use of bi-stable compliant structures for the chronograph mechanisms. Initial thoughts This year’s Watches & Wonders was marked by some interesting developments — not least some renewed emphasis on technical substance from a subset of brands. While mainstream luxury still dominates the market, there was a shift toward thoughtful engineering and incremental innovation that could be felt across many releases. One such remarkably technical release was the Evergraph from TAG Heuer.  While there’s no shortage of chronographs coming to market — from solid entry-level pieces to low-volume artisanal offerings — few are as genuinely forward-thinking as the Evergraph and its innovative TH80-00 movement. The TH80-00 was created by TAG Heuer in partnership with Vaucher Fleurier — a specialist noted for its expertise in chronographs — over a period of four years. TAG Heuer chose the longer road of developing a movement from ground up and not just applying its novel flexure chronograph mechanism to an existing base.  As a result, the brand had a clean slate to incorporate signature elements like the nine o’clock crow...

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Bravur Introduces the Grand Tour Sprinter Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bravur 6 days ago

Bravur Introduces the Grand Tour Sprinter Chronograph

Bravur, the Swedish watch brand that has developed a very specific niche dedicated to cycling themed watches, has announced their latest in that ongoing series, the Grand Tour Sprinter. To this point, most of Bravur’s cycling watches have been limited releases tied to specific races. A cycling race, it turns out, really lends itself to creative watch design, as it allows a brand like Bravur to take advantage of the unique jersey colors associated with specific races as well as easy to recognize timing and texture nods that cyclists will immediately recognize but would be very subtle (and unobtrusive) for everyone else. The Grand Tour Sprinter is a little different. Rather than taking inspiration from any particular race, the Sprinter pulls from a racing concept and an important individual on any competitive cycling team.  A sprinter on a cycling team plays an important role reserved for the race’s final moments. Over the course of a long race, the sprinter is held back and protected by the rest of the team. Near the end of the race, the sprinter is repositioned with assistance from the rest of the team to make a break for it at the 1 kilometer mark. Timing the sprinter’s final run and orchestrating that moment is critical in a close race.  The Grand Tour Sprinter is a chronograph with many subtle and not-so-subtle nods to cycling and the role of the sprinter that is very much in keeping with previous Bravur watches in the same vein. Like other watches in this serie...

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Over the Hill: Understanding High-Tech Ceramic on the Material’s 40th Birthday Worn & Wound
Rado 6 days ago

Over the Hill: Understanding High-Tech Ceramic on the Material’s 40th Birthday

Material innovation is increasingly becoming a core pillar within the watch industry. Whether borrowing and reconfiguring materials from different industries or composing your own from the ground up, it is clear materials matter when it comes to both technical feats and aesthetics achieved in watchmaking today. Sometimes, I like to think of these cutting-edge materials as mile markers on the highway of horology. I am always considering the world 50 or 100 years from now, when the watches of the present will become the watches of yesteryear, when what we consider modern will become vintage. I believe that the application of new materials will be a mark of this era of watchmaking that will serve as a milestone moment in the ever-unfolding history of horology. For Rado, the story starts with a sapphire crystal. While the brand was not the first to use this in place of acrylic or other weaker options, it was among the early adopters. However, Rado took it a step further by patenting a sliding water-sealed mechanism with a tension-fit construction. Here, the thick, faceted sapphire crystal was secured under high pressure into the oval-shaped hard metal case with a specialized gasket, designed to be exceptionally tight. Its effectiveness sparked further curiosity – what if this same scratch resistance and robustness could be applied to other parts of the watch or the watch in its entirety? With that guiding principle, the quest that would lead to the creation of high-tech cera...

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Holocaust Survivor’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual To Go Up For Auction Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6 days ago

Holocaust Survivor’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual To Go Up For Auction

We have covered quite a few historical stories about Rolex here on the Fratello site. Today, we have another, this time about a special gold Oyster Perpetual that belonged to Holocaust survivor Kurt Kahn. Let’s dive in. Some watches merely tell time, while others tell stories. Very rarely, one encounters a piece that does both […] Visit Holocaust Survivor’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual To Go Up For Auction to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The Watch That Shouts My Name And The Other 100th-Anniversary Rolex Oyster Perpetual Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Once I 6 days ago

Hands-On With The Watch That Shouts My Name And The Other 100th-Anniversary Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Once I saw it, I couldn’t unsee it. The special Jubilee dial of one of two anniversary Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches displayed the brand name repeatedly, but I just saw my name written over and over. This watch that literally had my name on it in a most obvious way. So, is the OP with […] Visit Hands-On With The Watch That Shouts My Name And The Other 100th-Anniversary Rolex Oyster Perpetual to read the full article.

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Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic 37 MM SJX Watches
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic 37 6 days ago

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic 37 MM

One of the quieter hits from Watches & Wonders was Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Automatic 37 mm, a watch that would probably have grabbed more headlines were it not for its visual similarity to the well-known 40 mm model. In pictures, it’s difficult to tell the sizes apart, but on the wrist the difference could not be more stark. Available in three versions in two different case materials — all regular production models — the 37 mm Octo Finissimo is powered by a new micro-rotor calibre that, while smaller than its sibling, manages to stretch the power reserve to 72 hours. Initial thoughts I’ve always appreciated the unique aesthetic of the Octo Finissimo, especially the matte titanium look that debuted in 2017. In some ways, it feels like the Royal Oak or Nautilus of my generation — an elegant sports watch with a distinctive voice. It’s a contemporary design that feels like it has staying power. This aspect of the Octo Finissimo should not be understated. The deluge of generic-looking integrated bracelet sports watches we’ve witnessed over the past five years proves that it’s very difficult to create a differentiated design within this format. For Bulgari, the development of the Octo Finissimo — with its wide bracelet and short-pitched links — was like capturing magic in a bottle. Unfortunately, the square shoulders of the 40 mm case ride up over my ulnar styloid (wrist bone) causing the case to sit at an odd angle — never flat and straight as intended ...

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Why this Watch: the Fears Redcliff Onyx for Collective Horology Worn & Wound
Raymond Weil May 5, 2026

Why this Watch: the Fears Redcliff Onyx for Collective Horology

“Why This Watch?” focuses on a member of the watch enthusiast community and digs into their decision making process for why they’ve collected a particular watch. We all have reasons, justifications, and sometimes even purpose behind our collecting decisions, and this series aims to identify them through watches that might be a little unusual, off the beaten path, or special in some way to the owner.  Today, Fernando Cervantes tells about his Fears Redcliff Onyx for Collective Horology. Fears is a favorite among many of us here at Worn & Wound, so we were excited to hear Fernando dig into why and how this watch landed in his collection. Turns out, there’s a fun backstory to it that ties it directly to the Worn & Wound community. Who are you, and how’d you get into watches?  My name is Fernando Cervantes, I used to be a Senior Software Engineer, but just last week I got promoted to Engineering Manager – what I thought would be a straightforward change turned out to be anything but – turns out managing is hard! My dad used to work for many, many years as a regional bank manager, he used to have many nice watches given as gifts by either the bank or fellow coworkers – as a kid, I vividly remember them going through them – Must de Cartier, Rolex, and closer to the end of his career, Raymond Weil. Surprisingly, the only one he kept was a Raymond Weil Tango. He was never too much of a watch guy, but it was enough to keep watches in the back of my mind as I gre...

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Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2) Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Observatory-style watch Photo courtesy May 5, 2026

Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2)

There's no shortage of watches this auction season—more than 1,200 lots across the major houses—but volume isn't really the story. At Christie's and Sotheby's, the focus feels different this time around, moving past the hype-driven pieces of the early 2020s and back to some genuinely compelling and surprising watches. Last week, we published part one of our preview—today, we're finishing it up with part two. Christie’s I would argue that Christie's always has one of the more subtle and yet impressive catalogs. There are some truly fantastic pieces here and, as always, we'll start at the top. Lot 134, a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. Photo courtesy Christie's. If you're looking for a watch that my friend and current "Bring a Loupe" writer Weston Cutter called an "immediate knee-weakener," you need to sit down for this one. Lot 134 is a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. The watch is powered by a 13-ligne 13VZAS movement that was highly modified for precision as a time-only watch, with a large subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock and a blank subdial at 3 o'clock. Bold numerals, bold design, it's the kind of thing you dream about if you collect early watches, and the estimate is a hilarious CHF 50,000 to 100,000. It should go for way m...

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Introducing – Panerai Gets Technical with the New Submersible GMT PAM01495 Monochrome
Panerai Gets Technical May 5, 2026

Introducing – Panerai Gets Technical with the New Submersible GMT PAM01495

While Panerai strayed on the safe and relatively accessible side of things at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, with historically inspired designs, vintage details, and clean displays (see the Luminor PAM01731 and Luminor Destro PAM01732), the brand’s latest release sits clearly on the other end of the spectrum. Big and bold, highly technical, modern looking […]

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Hands-On With The Kiwame Tokyo Mune — Raising The Roof In Style Fratello
Kiwame Tokyo May 5, 2026

Hands-On With The Kiwame Tokyo Mune — Raising The Roof In Style

Kiwame Tokyo launched two new models, and I got a chance to go hands-on with them. Meet the Kiwame Tokyo Mune in two colorways. These watches subtly nod to Japanese roof architecture. As I tend to be skeptical about thematic watches, my first thought was, “Do these hold up if you strip away the backstory?” […] Visit Hands-On With The Kiwame Tokyo Mune — Raising The Roof In Style to read the full article.

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Introducing – The new MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition, with Enamel Dial Monochrome
Meistersinger Unitas 1Z Edition May 5, 2026

Introducing – The new MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition, with Enamel Dial

Time does not need to be dissected into seconds to be meaningful. This distinctive idea has been essential to MeisterSinger for 25 years. The brand’s single-hand watches deliberately slow the reading of time, changing the focus from precision to perception. To mark its anniversary, MeisterSinger looks back at one of its earlier and most important […]

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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 26 Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces May 4, 2026

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 26

There are a small handful of events where you just know you’re going to see new watch releases. Watches & Wonders, obviously. Our own Windup Watch Fairs, as well. And, as of late, missions to space of one kind or another tend to inspire brands with watches themed to space exploration, usually in partnership with organizations that have a stake in the mission. Oh, and F1 weekends in the United States. You can pretty much count on at least one of any number of brands tied to an F1 team to uncork something as interest in the sport peaks around races in one of our local time zones.  This past weekend saw the return of the Miami Grand Prix, and right on cue Tudor was ready with a new watch to mark the occasion. This one, the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 26 is a direct follow up to last year’s Carbon 25, and like that watch is also a bit of a coproduction with Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team. Tudor began their partnership with the team relatively recently, in 2024, and have already released two limited edition watches, as of this weekend.  The Carbon 26 sees Tudor returning to the carbon fiber Black Bay Chrono case introduced last year, but in an updated dial color. This one borrows from the yellow, black, and white livery of the VCARB 03 car, with a white main dial, black subdials, and yellow accents throughout.  The case remains the same, measuring 42mm in diameter with a fixed tachymeter bezel along with screw down pushers and crown. It has the familiar lines of a Black ...

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Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch Hodinkee
Tudor Monarch It ain't always May 4, 2026

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch

It ain't always Black Bays and Pelagi at Tudor. At least, not all the time. Since the brand returned to the U.S. market in 2012, Tudor's success has been rooted in the broad appeal of watches like the Heritage Chronograph, the Pelagos, and, of course, the Black Bay. These are heritage-coded, conventional watches that nailed the price point, specs, and aesthetic demanded by the enthusiast market at the time. In the preceding decade, we saw that formula become a playbook as the Pelagos and Black Bay evolved into increasingly specific slices of that original concept. But what about the Tudors that fall outside of the playbook? Remember the North Flag or the Fastrider? What about the Black Bay P01? While the playbook has successfully executed moves for left-side crowns, silver cases, and channel lugs, not all of the brand's explorations into other formats have been smash hits. And it's not merely a question of having a historical footing, sure, the North Flag and Fastrider were quite modern, but the P01 was a functional deep cut from the brand's archives. As a watch brand, a music act, heck, as just about anything in our oh-so-branded world, it can be hard to operate outside of "your lane". That can include what is actually your lane or what has become your lane in the current context of a given brand's media. For 2026 at Watches and Wonders, Tudor stuck to the playbook, offering refinement, additional specs, new bracelets, and the like – except for one watch, the Monarch. A...

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