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Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 10, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325

When Grand Seiko (GS) made its return in 1998, the inaugural SBGR001 model was powered by the 9S55, the first modern-day GS calibre. Now the brand is marking the 25th anniversary of the 9S movement family with a pair of limited editions. The Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH311 and the Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGR325. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 has a patterned dial, while the more affordable SBGR325 has a dial with a brushed finish. Both are modelled on the original model of 1998 and sport the same 37 mm case. SBGH311 (left) and SBGR325 Initial thoughts With their 37 mm cases and clean styling, the new 9S pair hark back to the GS watches made from the late 1990s to mid 2000s. That is unsurprising since they are meant to commemorate the first model with the 9S movement, which made its debut in 1998. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 does have a fancier pattern dial, but one that is relatively subtle in its shades-of-grey texture. As a result, they will appeal to anyone who wants a smaller, simpler GS watch. Another upside of the relatively simpler execution are the prices, which place the pair amongst the most affordable self-winding GS watches. The SBGH311 is US$6,600 and the SBGR325 about 20% less. SBGR325 Old-school size The SBGH311 has a textured dial in silvery grey inspired by clouds that’s matched with a blued-steel seconds hand. And the “GS” emblem is gilded in a nod to the fact that this is an anniversary edition. Not...

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The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Jan 6, 2023

The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith

This past year was quite a journey for my collection, with new additions and trades – as I am known for every now and again. While I have been bad about it the last few months, with consecutive new watch addition honeymoon periods, typically I try to avoid wearing the same watch two days in … ContinuedThe post The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces the Prospex SPB333, “White Birch” for Less SJX Watches
Grand Seiko White Birch” Initial thoughts Dec 20, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SPB333, “White Birch” for Less

As is its habit, Seiko is marking the 110th anniversary of its first-ever wristwatch with a series of limited editions starting with the recent Presage SBP359. Now the Japanese watchmaker unveils the Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary” based on its “turtle” dive watch but featuring a patterned dial reminiscent of the popular Grand Seiko “White Birch”. Initial thoughts When Seiko first announced limited editions for the 110th anniversary, I was expecting a reissue of the original Laurel wristwatch, which turned out to be spot on. But as a longtime fan of Seiko dive watches, I was hoping for something based on the “Turtle” for the occasion. Well, I am happy to say that the SPB333 does not disappoint. Though it is easily recognisable as a “Turtle”, it is clear that thought went into the styling. Its designers used the classic diver as a template for gentle experimentation and the result certainly delivers. The dial is beautiful and certainly fancier than that on the average Seiko diver. Though ostensibly inspired by glaciers, the textured dial certainly brings to mind the popular “White Birch” pattern found on several Grand Seiko models. This level of dial decoration on a “tool” watch places the SPB333 on my Christmas wish list. Pattern aside, I do have some bones to pick with the dial design, specifically the date window between four and five o’clock. I find date windows on Seiko divers are far better in the cust...

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Auction Watch: The Unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001 Dec 9, 2022

Auction Watch: The Unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001

On very rare occasions does Grand Seiko create unique versions of its watches. But it has done so with a unique version of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon – the one-off reference SLGT001 – that will go under the hammer at Phillips’ New York auction December 11, with some proceeds from the sale going to a children’s charity. Anyone who read our earlier in-depth, two-part story on the Kodo (part I covers the watch and part II its technical features) will understand the the impressive technical achievement that is its movement. The SLGT001 has all of that, but in a unique execution specifically for the auction. Engraved “Unique Piece No. 1/1” on the back, the SLGT001 is instantly recognisable as a one-off. While the standard version of the model has a monochromatic grey palette, the SLGT001 is set apart by its colour: heat-blued and gilded components against rhodium-plated bridges. Most of the screws are blued steel, while the three-armed tourbillon carriage is blued titanium. And the SLGT001 is also distinguished by its case material. Unlike the standard model that has a case made up of both titanium and platinum, this is entirely in Brilliant Hard Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that boasts a brighter, more silvery hue than most titanium alloys. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the SLGT001 will go to the Children’s Heart Foundation. Besides benefiting a good cause, the winning bidder will also get a trip to Japan to meet the team behind...

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HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY023 GS9 Club USA Limited Edition is yet another GS we wish was standard production Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGY023 GS9 Club USA Dec 2, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY023 GS9 Club USA Limited Edition is yet another GS we wish was standard production

I know many of us jest at the frequency with which Grand Seiko releases limited editions. To be fair, plenty of other brands are guilty of repeated limited-edition novelty debuts. But, on the other side of the coin, how can we fault them? We often see people go crazy for limited editions, especially Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY023 GS9 Club USA Limited Edition is yet another GS we wish was standard production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Enough Birch: The Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there is far more dial-ground to cover in Evolution 9 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there Nov 14, 2022

Enough Birch: The Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there is far more dial-ground to cover in Evolution 9

Evolution 9 was born to usher in a new era and tier of Grand Seiko watchmaking. It brought forth their most faceted case yet, with the most alternating hairline-brushed and Zaratsu distortion-free, mirror-polished surfaces. There were broader and sportier hands and indices, plus notably next-gen movements like the high-beat 9SA5 calibre. But while we have … ContinuedThe post Enough Birch: The Grand Seiko SLGH019 proves there is far more dial-ground to cover in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Hand-Wind Spring Drive “Asaborake” SBGY011 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Nov 10, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hand-Wind Spring Drive “Asaborake” SBGY011

Having launched several elegant and concise time-only watches this year, Grand Seiko has unveiled something once again simple but still unusual: the first regular-production, manual-wind Spring Drive 44GS, the Heritage Collection SBGY011 “Asaborake”. The SBGY011 combines two of the best elements of Grand Seiko (GS), namely the hybrid Spring Drive movement and the distinctive 44GS case. While the combination has been seen before, the SBGY011 brings something new to the table because the movement is manual wind, instead of self-winding as most Spring Drive calibres are. Initial thoughts I appreciate the SBGY011 because it retains the key features of the original, namely the 44GS case, silver dial, and hand-wind movement – but reinterpreted to incorporate contemporary elements such as the Spring Drive movement and patterned dial. Combined with the 44GS case, the silver dial gives the SBGY011 an aesthetic that’s close to the vintage 44GS of 1967. In fact, it’s essentially a modern, more technically-capable version of the original, which also contained a hand-wind mechanical movement. In fact, the SBGY011 is only the second hand-wind Spring Drive watch with a 44GS case, and the first and only one that’s not a limited edition. The hand-wind movement matters because the 44GS case is exponentially more attractive when it’s thin; in this case it is only 10.5 mm high. In comparison, a typical automatic Spring Drive is around 13 mm thick. Notably, despite being a regul...

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In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 17, 2022

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...

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The Grand Seiko SBGW291 and SBGW293 condense dazzling dials into 36.5mm cases Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW291 Sep 25, 2022

The Grand Seiko SBGW291 and SBGW293 condense dazzling dials into 36.5mm cases

The 44GS case has been a staple in Grand Seiko’s line-up for a long time, with the Japanese luxury giant paying tribute to its 55th anniversary with multiple new releases over the past 12 months. This newest duo, the Grand Seiko SBGW291 and SBGW293, also fall into that category, being placed in Grand Seiko’s Heritage … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGW291 and SBGW293 condense dazzling dials into 36.5mm cases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? Time+Tide
Seiko become worth $1200? Resale Aug 28, 2022

How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200?

Resale value is a can of worms like no other, turning the discussion of wristwatches from a matter of taste into an investments debate. On one end of the spectrum are people who are happy to buy watches at their retail price, because they’ve got no plans to sell them as soon as they’re paid … ContinuedThe post How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” Seiko Aug 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa”

Seiko is launching a new Australasian Limited Edition from the Prospex range that is inspired by one of the most stunning holiday destinations in Australia – Noosa in Queensland. The colourway for this timepiece is the seemingly always on-trend black and blue but adds popping bright yellow accents. The dial has a very subtle texture … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” Seiko Aug 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus”

Seiko has gone beyond the green and gold to release two watches inspired by Australia’s natural environment that will be limited to the Australasian market. We’ll tackle the first of these now: the Prospex SRPJ35K “Eucalyptus”, but you can read our first impressions of the Prospex SBP347J “Noosa” right here. Both watches are released along … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Daniel Craig’s Omega Seamaster from No Time to Die to be auctioned for charity Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster from No Time Jul 29, 2022

Daniel Craig’s Omega Seamaster from No Time to Die to be auctioned for charity

When you ask many collectors what got them into watches, you’ll often hear them attribute the spark to James Bond. The charismatic secret agent is intricately tied to timepieces, wearing various watches from Rolex, Seiko, Heuer, Pulsar, and, more recently, Omega across the six decades and 25 films of the James Bond franchise. As a … ContinuedThe post Daniel Craig’s Omega Seamaster from No Time to Die to be auctioned for charity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Birch family Evolution 9 Jul 12, 2022

Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family

Evolution 9 represents a new era of design for Grand Seiko, pushing the envelope both externally and internally. The most prolific Evolution 9 design is the SLGH005 “White Birch”, but since 2021 the Grand Seiko Birch family has rapidly grown – expanding into new materials, movements and dial colours. So, here is an overview of … ContinuedThe post Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 are complicated additions to the Evolution 9 collection Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGC249 Jun 28, 2022

The Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 are complicated additions to the Evolution 9 collection

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection greatly expanded at this year’s Watches and Wonders, with no less than five new additions. Among those we find today’s offering - the Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 Spring Drive Chronograph GMTs. The idea isn’t exactly novel for Grand Seiko; in fact, one of the models celebrates the 15th anniversary of … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGC249 and SBGC251 are complicated additions to the Evolution 9 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial Time+Tide
Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up Jun 19, 2022

VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial

The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way Seiko know how - with a selection of gorgeous reissues. The latest off the block … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jun 14, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz

Long a leading player in the arena of high-end quartz watches, Grand Seiko’s flagship offering is the 9F quartz movement that is built with an attention to detail comparable to that of its mechanical calibres. Beyond the almost-artisanal production, 9F movements are all about accuracy – the standard movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year. Now Grand Seiko a limited edition equipped with a specially-adjusted 9F calibre, the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary SBGP017 “Blue Clouds”. Signified by the star emblem on the dial, the movement within is regulated to run within five seconds a year – an average of less than a half second deviation a month. Initial thoughts Watches with colourful, textured dials are almost the norm at Grand Seiko, which has rolled out enough limited editions that such watches seem almost more common than their plain dial counterparts. The SBGP017 dial has a familiar texture, so at first glance it seems like yet another Grand Seiko limited edition. But a closer look reveals the fact that the SBGP017 is unusual. For one, it’s quartz. Grand Seiko quartz watches rarely have patterned dials and when they do, the dials typically have motifs made up of repeating symbols. In contrast, the abstract pattern found on the SBGP017 is similar to that found on Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive models. Put another way, the SBGP017 is an atypical Grand Seiko limited edition because it’s quartz but has the aesthetic of a me...

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Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports GMT SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports GMT

Having received a facelift in 2019, the Seiko 5 Sports collection draws on the ubiquitous and much loved “SKX” dive watch for its styling, but is lighter on features and easier on the wallet. Now Seiko has unveiled the Seiko 5 Sports Style GMT, which looks even more like an SKX thanks to its five-link bracelet. But its key feature is actually a major function upgrade: the two-tone bezel and 24-hour hand make it a dual-time zone travel watch. The SSK003 with a blue-and-black bezel and red GMT hand Initial thoughts Though similar to the base-model Seiko 5 Sports, the GMT distinguishes itself by virtue of design. It possesses the same overall look but boasts more refined stylistic details like the five-link bracelet and bezel with smart typography, which gives it a more upscale look than the standard model. At the same time, the GMT has a bit more flair than an actual SKX diver (which is a nevertheless is a more accomplished dive watch) as a result of its dual time zone function. I like the added colour contrast between the 24-hour hand and dial, as well as the subtly two-tone bezel. And even though it has more elements due to the extra function, the design and details are restrained. And it’s worth mentioning that while the bracelet has the same Jubilee-esque aesthetics as that of the SKX diver, it has been upgraded with solid end links, which means it should feel less dinky that the SKX bracelet. All three versions are executed well The only downside of the watch i...

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Grand Seiko Reveals the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Reveals Mar 30, 2022

Grand Seiko Reveals the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Unveiled in 2020, the Grand Seiko T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon was a surprisingly complicated movement from a watchmaker that has historically focused on no-nonsense, everyday watches. In interview with us last year, Seiko chief executive Akio Naito promised not to “keep people waiting for too long” and he has kept to his promise. Just two years after the T0 concept was revealed, its commercially available counterpart  version has arrived in the form of the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003. With a case that’s a mix of platinum and titanium, the SLGT003 has a movement that’s slightly different from the T0 concept. Its cal. 9ST1 retains the all-important constant-force mechanism integrated into the tourbillon cage, though the movement overall has been trimmed down slightly in both size and artistic expression – though it still has an aesthetic that is extreme by Grand Seiko standards. Initial thoughts The SLGT003 is a lot of watch: a skeletonised movement combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism accompanied by a dead-beat seconds. And it also has twin barrels and a power reserve indicator. The SLGT003 is intriguing and impressive is to say the least. The amalgamation of several complications perfectly showcase the brand’s newfound prowess in complicated watchmaking, elevating the brand to another level entirely, one comparable with independent watchmakers. And it also marks a milestone for a watchmaker from Asia. But the design is over th...

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WATCHES & WONDERS: Grand Seiko 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Grand Seiko 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Grand Seiko 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja Time+Tide
Seiko Black Series makes Mar 23, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja

It should come as no surprise that a second round of additions to Seiko’s Black Series have arrived, given the instant success of the first few watches. The series perfectly pulls off that stealthy, tactical look without sacrificing legibility or needing third-party modifications, and the four new watches are each full of character that will … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches with “Glacial Ice” Dials SJX Watches
Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches Mar 21, 2022

Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches with “Glacial Ice” Dials

Sticking to a tried-and-tested formula, Seiko has united a trio of its bestselling dive watches into a thematic collection. This year’s offering is the Prospex Save the Ocean Special Editions, a trio of dive watches (the refs. SPB297, SPB299, and SPB301) featuring textured dials modelled on the surface of polar ice. As with past Save the Ocean editions, part of the proceeds from the sale of the new models will be donated to ocean conservation organisations. Initial thoughts Easy to like because of their vintage-inspired style and affordability, Seiko’s “Modern Re-interpretation” dive watches have just gotten better with the new trio, thanks to interesting, textured dials in pleasing colours. Even amongst the countless iterations of the same models, the new arrivals still manage to distinguish themselves, especially the models in light blue and white, both uncommon colours for dive watches. Interestingly, the new watches might look identical to past versions save for the dials, but they are not. All three feature steel cases that have a “super-hard coating”, which was absent in earlier models, explaining why the new models cost more than last year’s military-style special editions. While Seiko’s schedule of frequent new launches are a little tedious to keep up with, the proliferation of such watches is probably justified, simply because they are mass produced and affordable, making them easily accessible for almost anyone. As such, new versions in co...

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Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword #3: The Grand Seiko challenge Time+Tide
Grand Seiko challenge Welcome Mar 5, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword #3: The Grand Seiko challenge

Welcome to the Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword! For those joining us for the first time, each week we will post a new crossword for you to solve with clues that revolve around a particular watch-focused theme. Knowing that most of you come to the site each day on your mobile phones, we settled on having … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword #3: The Grand Seiko challenge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition Time+Tide
Seiko SLA055J1 Save Feb 28, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition

Seiko’s Save The Ocean series has been a favourite among the brand’s fans for years, with the charitable contributions and environmental associations delivering a host of fun new dial variations of established watches. While those Save The Ocean editions have definitely been a great option for anyone looking for something a little more unique straight … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports x Worn & Wound 10th Anniversary Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko brands each celebrating Feb 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports x Worn & Wound 10th Anniversary Limited Edition

Seiko loves to celebrate anniversaries. The 140th anniversary of the Seiko Corporation brought forth a ton of commemorative limited-edition novelties, for both the Seiko and Grand Seiko brands, each celebrating the rich history of the vertically integrated manufacture. But today’s new Seiko limited edition, while celebrating an anniversary, is not for their own. In honour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports x Worn & Wound 10th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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