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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

The Citizen’s Latest Gets Indigo Washi Paper Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s cal 9F movement Jul 31, 2026

The Citizen’s Latest Gets Indigo Washi Paper Dial

Next month Citizen’s The Citizen collection brings a new look to its exceedingly accurate high-end quartz watches. Still accurate to five seconds a year, or better, with a perpetual calendar and scratch-resistant titanium case, this limited edition introduces an indigo-dyed washi paper dial, produced using traditional craft methods. Initial thoughts Citizen’s The Citizen collection, which celebrated 30 years of questionable naming just last year, remains somewhat obscure even amongst watch enthusiasts. That’s unfortunate, as it has nothing to do with the quality of the watches, which are excellent and often handsome. And while the line now includes mechanical watches, high-end quartz is where The Citizen really shines. No two examples are the same. Though frequently compared to Grand Seiko’s cal. 9F movement family, I would argue The Citizen’s A0 line of solar quartz movements are of a different breed, more comparable to Seiko’s cal. 3X Astron movements or even Casio’s high-end G-Shocks. These share solar charging, a perpetual calendar, and a power-save made that pauses the hands to save energy when the watch is not in use. However, The Citizen’s aesthetic differs widely from those of the Astron and G-Shock, favouring the sharply reserved style that has defined chronometry-focused Japanese watchmaking for decades. The other key difference is autonomy. Unlike Astrons and G-Shocks, which can vary by as much as 15 seconds per month without network synchronisat...

Do New Dials And Colors For Hamilton’s Khaki Navy Scuba Lineup Do The Trick? Fratello
Hamilton s Khaki Navy Scuba Jul 31, 2026

Do New Dials And Colors For Hamilton’s Khaki Navy Scuba Lineup Do The Trick?

When I hear the name Hamilton, dive watches aren’t the first things that come to mind. The Swiss brand with American roots is mostly known for its great lineup of military field watches. On top of that, the classic Ventura and the Intra-Matic Chronograph are among its more famous offerings. That said, the Khaki Navy […] Visit Do New Dials And Colors For Hamilton’s Khaki Navy Scuba Lineup Do The Trick? to read the full article.

One of the Smallest Automatic Rectangular Watches - Orient FNRAP004W0 WatchRider
Ming reliable Jul 30, 2026

One of the Smallest Automatic Rectangular Watches - Orient FNRAP004W0

Finding a truly small automatic watch is surprisingly difficult. Finding one in a refined, vintage-inspired “tank” (rectangular) silhouette is almost impossible in modern horology. That’s what makes the Orient FNRAP004W0 in rose gold such a special gem. Having owned and worn this piece for many years, I can confidently say it remains one of the most charming, reliable, and unique watches in my collection. The Secret in the Back Perhaps the most impressive feature is what you cannot see from the top. For me, the absolute standout feature of the Orient FNRAP004W0 is what happens when you take it off and flip it over. Most watchmakers assume that anyone wanting a small, dressy tank watch does not care about what is inside, usually opting to drop in a cheap, battery-powered quartz movement. Orient, true to its Japanese horological roots, took the harder path. Inside this tiny case beats an in-house Japanese automatic movement( Cal. 55742). The fact that Orient engineered a self-winding mechanical engine to fit inside such a slender, 11.95 mm-thick frame is a quiet flex of their watchmaking prowess.  Art Deco Charm While the technical feat under the hood earns respect from watch enthusiasts, the external design is what wins hearts on a daily basis:  The Warmth of Rose Gold: The rose gold-plated stainless steel case gives the watch an understated, warm elegance. It avoids the flashiness of yellow gold, making it easy to style whether you’re dressed up for an even...

Did Longines Give The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve A Modern Makeover? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Longines Give Jul 30, 2026

Did Longines Give The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve A Modern Makeover? (Hands-On)

Longines have created a new spin on a heritage design, but have they done enough to give the unique watch a modern kick? Let’s find out! What We Love: A modern but non-generic colour & finish Universal, easy-wearing dimensions Unique heritage-inspired complication What We Don’t: Questionable lume Movement finishing somewhat lacking How new can an ‘old’ watch be? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Heritage revivals have become a huge part of the modern watch industry. Everywhere you look, there’s another release that’s either an exact copy of, or inspired by, a design from a bygone era. While these watches have returned to varying degrees of success, they typically all share one common thread: they put their fingers on the pulse of the watch community to see which past designs have proved wildly popular, then remaster them accordingly. Longines, however, has started to behave a little differently. While the brand has found plenty of success bringing back watches from its vast archive (case in point, the Ultra-Chron) they use them as a celebration of its brand identity, inviting the watch community to celebrate alongside it. That doesn’t mean chasing what’s popular, but rather embracing what makes Longines so distinctive in a sea of sameness. Perhaps the best example of this is the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve. Inspired by a design from 1959, the watch was brought bac...

Hands-On: the Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak both launching Jul 30, 2026

Hands-On: the Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection

Raymond Weil celebrates its 50th anniversary this year, Weil founding his eponymous brand in 1976. And the brand’s first integrated-bracelet watch is a nod to the seventies era of experimentation: where, in the face of impending quartz dominance, watchmakers produced bold designs like they had nothing to lose. This was the era of the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, both launching the concept of the luxury sports watch—in essence, a classier and far pricier interpretation of the Go Anywhere, Do Anything ethos that once took its inspiration from military and field watches. Only this time, going anywhere is to Monaco or St. Moritz, and doing anything is jumping off the back of a yacht into the waters of Bali.  Fifty years later, the integrated bracelet watch has never been more popular. Perhaps it’s the trickle-down effect from the cachet of those two OGs, which have taken off so much that people are willing to snap up an anniversary Nautilus desk clock, or storm your nearest Swatch store for a plastic Royal Oak. Or it’s the promise of a certain inherent and integrated toughness, eschewing the notion that we won’t ever reach 1,000-ft deep-water depths and still make it back to the boardroom. In fact, skip the beach-to-boardroom mentality. This category is all upscale by comparison, and the A.R.T. series — which, according to Raymond Weil, stands for “art, refinement, and timekeeping,” with the latter perhaps seeming redundant — captur...

Introducing: The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Edition Hodinkee
Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Jul 30, 2026

Introducing: The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Limited Edition

What We Know A funky new dial is probably the least surprising thing to come from Ming these days, but somehow, the new Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor still feels like a compelling play on the brand's two-hander 37-series design. This time around, Ming doubles down on its Malaysian roots for a collaboration with Malaysian pewter brand Royal Selangor. What we get is a dramatically hammered pewter dial, made by Royal Selangor in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The grooves and scales of the hammering are quite exaggerated for the size of the dial, which offers an uninterrupted surface for the hammering without any printing or applied markers. With this expansive, highly textured dial, Ming's usage of the top sapphire crystal as an alternative place for dial markings is very useful, with the underside of the top sapphire crystal engraved and infilled with Super-LumiNova X1 for a luminescent track with hour markers and Ming's logo at the top that floats above the hammered pewter surface. It's complemented by the distinctive blued 37-series handset, also coated with a generous amount of Super-LumiNova. The luster of the dial is framed by the more demure look of a fully-brushed grade-2 titanium case, with a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 11.05mm, and a compact lug-to-lug of 44.73mm. Engraved on the periphery of the exhibition caseback is Ming and Royal Selangor branding, and through the sapphire crystal, the automatic Sellita for MING SW300.M1 is seen in full view. Yes, on paper the movemen...

Ming Introduces the 37.06 Royal Selangor, a Limited Edition with a Hammered Pewter Dial Worn & Wound
Ming Introduces Jul 30, 2026

Ming Introduces the 37.06 Royal Selangor, a Limited Edition with a Hammered Pewter Dial

The latest from Ming is a collaboration that I think most enthusiasts could never have predicted, but makes quite a bit sense when you take a few steps back and look at the participants from a high level. The new 37.06 Royal Selangor is a new limited edition made in partnership with Royal Selangor, the well known pewter manufacturer, by some accounts the largest in the world. Both brands have roots in Kuala Lumpur, and the collaboration took shape after Ming Thein helped a client collect his camera, reskinned by Royal Selangor in Malaysia. Thein and Royal Selangor CEO Yong Yoon Li shared a meal, and that was enough to generate the seeds of a collaborative watch. Pewter is not commonly used in watchmaking. Used since antiquity to craft a variety of objects including decorative metal items and tableware of all kinds, it is an alloy that is largely made from tin, which is highly malleable and has a low melting point. That makes it relatively easy to work with compared with some metal alloys, but the process is necessarily undertaken largely by hand, which opens up all kinds of craft opportunities which is what Royal Selangor excels at. Pewter does not generally tarnish or corrode, but it does develop a patina after long periods of use.  The 37.06 Royal Selangor features a pewter dial with a hammered texture, similar to those used in Ming watches in the past. According to Ming, the filing, polishing, and finishing of pewter is all traditionally done by hand, even now at a tim...

First Look - The Sicura Hexa 400 Marks the Return of a Forgotten Swiss Tool Watch Name Monochrome
Jul 30, 2026

First Look - The Sicura Hexa 400 Marks the Return of a Forgotten Swiss Tool Watch Name

Few now remember the Swiss watchmaking name Sicura. Founded in Grenchen in 1939, the brand enjoyed success during the 1960s and 1970s under Ernest Schneider, producing affordable, unconventional watches that combined unusual functions with bold styling. Sicura experimented with everything from compressor-style divers and jump-hour displays to LED watches, solar-powered and multi-function tool watches, all […]

Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400 Fratello
Jul 30, 2026

Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400

In the past decade, we have seen many once-defunct Swiss brands return to the watch industry. A few recent returnees that come to mind are Gallet and Universal Genève. Today, another legendary brand joins the ranks. It’s the return of the classic Swiss brand Sicura. Under the leadership of the famous Ernest Schneider in the […] Visit Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400 to read the full article.

Introducing - The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor, with Hammered Pewter Dial Monochrome
Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Jul 30, 2026

Introducing - The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor, with Hammered Pewter Dial

Founded in 2017 by photographer Ming Thein and headquartered in Kuala Lumpur, Ming is a design-driven independent watch brand distinguished by a contemporary aesthetic in which minimalism, luminescence and layered construction all play defining roles. For the latest release, Ming strays from its usual course, turning to traditional craftsmanship for the dial of the new […]

Introducing - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, A Glassbox Inspired by Japanese Racing Heritage Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Jul 30, 2026

Introducing - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, A Glassbox Inspired by Japanese Racing Heritage

Three years after the launch of the original 42mm Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa by Bamford, TAG Heuer renews its collaboration with a new limited edition, this time based on the brand’s modern 39mm Carrera Glassbox Chronograph and inspired by Team Ikuzawa’s iconic Roadmaster stopwatches of the 1970s and 1980s. The story of Team Ikuzawa […]

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast Fratello
Bianchet Jul 30, 2026

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast

I will admit it: when Bianchet first launched quietly in 2017, the idea of another openworked tourbillon watch wasn’t overly intriguing. Then again, as a traditionalist, I tended to dismiss watches like this in the past. But, as they say, the past is the past. Now, I enjoy more theater in my timepieces. Painstaking finishing, […] Visit The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast to read the full article.

The Rolex Presidential: Everything you need to know and the Marilyn Monroe drama WatchRider
Rolex Presidential Everything you need Jul 30, 2026

The Rolex Presidential: Everything you need to know and the Marilyn Monroe drama

Few wristwatches in the world carry the immediate visual impact and prestige of the “Rolex Presidential.” If you’ve noticed a sudden surge in search traffic around this iconic timepiece, you aren’t alone. Driven by record-high precious metal values, celebrity endorsements, and a resurgence in classic luxury aesthetics, the world’s most famous status symbol is having a major moment online. First Things First: “Rolex Presidential” Isn’t Its Real Name Let’s start with a little horological trivia to impress your friends: Rolex has never officially sold a watch called the “Presidential.” The watch’s actual name is the Rolex Day-Date, introduced in 1956. It earned its famous nickname because: It came on a specific, three-piece semi-circular link bracelet that Rolex officially named the “President” bracelet. It quickly became the go-to accessory for the most powerful world leaders on the planet. Also, Rolex has a strict “no peasants allowed” rule for the Day-Date: it is made exclusively in 18k gold (yellow, white, or Everose) or 950 platinum. You cannot buy a stainless-steel Day-Date from Rolex. If someone tries to sell you a steel one in an alley, run. Why Is the Search Volume Skyrocketing? Exclusive Precious Metals:With gold market values reaching historic peaks, owning solid gold horology represents both a luxury flex and a tangible asset. Pop Culture Dominance: From executive boardrooms to sports stars and viral social media unboxings, ...

Casio A1000SP-7: The Premium Digital Classic now with Sapphire and Full Metal WatchRider
Casio A1000SP-7 Jul 29, 2026

Casio A1000SP-7: The Premium Digital Classic now with Sapphire and Full Metal

Casio has added a new model to its Vintage range for July 2026, and the A1000SP-7 is more than another colour change. It keeps the familiar rectangular digital display but surrounds it with a stainless-steel case, a solid metal bracelet and, most importantly, a sapphire crystal. This is the specification that makes the new model stand out among Casio’s classic digital watches. Sapphire crystal is the main attraction Sapphire is much more resistant to everyday scratches than acrylic or normal mineral glass. It is not impossible to damage, but keys, desk edges and normal daily wear are far less likely to leave scratches on it. Sapphire is still unusual on an affordable digital Casio, so this upgrade gives the A1000SP-7 a real advantage rather than a change that exists only for decoration. The crystal also plays a part in the design. Casio has applied a striped vapor-deposition treatment to its underside. Below it sits a brass dial with a sunray finish. Together, these surfaces create visible depth around the digital screen, with the pattern changing as light hits the watch from different angles. The result is more interesting than a flat silver face while remaining easy to wear with almost anything. Full stainless-steel construction The case and bezel are made from stainless steel. Casio also fits a solid stainless-steel band with a one-touch three-fold clasp. Hairline-brushed and mirror-polished surfaces are combined across the band, giving it a mix of matte and shiny are...

Citizen Introduces the Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Jul 29, 2026

Citizen Introduces the Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition

It’s devilishly easy to be reeled in by the promise of a limited edition item. The allure of exclusivity, the potential for appreciation, the collectability factor: all perfectly reasonable excuses to cash in on a limited watch. Still, most enthusiasts (myself included) are understandably frustrated when these cool limited models come at a hefty price tag or feel like unobtainium due to double-digit production volume. Enter watches like the new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip”, which, while technically limited at 12,000 units, promises a more affordable and obtainable entry into the limited edition collectible world, while still retaining some of that “exclusive” magic.  Citizen’s Tsuyosa collection has made quite the name for itself as a bold, sub-$1,000 line of automatic watches. Most of the models involve loud colors and subtle, minimalist design, making them great choices for everyday wear, or a new enthusiast’s first mechanical watch. The Time Slip joins two other skin diver-adjacent Shore models in the Tsuyosa line. Like the non-limited previous models, it boasts 100 meters of water resistance within a 40mm stainless steel case. Inside, a caliber 8210 automatic movement powers the stop second and date (with a “cyclops” style magnifying window) functions. It’s a neat little package that allows for the robust longevity of a mechanical movement, but even with a unidirectional bezel and added legibility features like luminous hands and indices, it d...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Jul 29, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices

This week on The Business of Watches, we take stock at the halfway point of the year for watch auctions. Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas, Europe and Middle East, gives us his take on what's driving the interest of the top watch collectors these days. It's a pivotal time, with the watch auction market setting record sales results at most of the top auction houses despite global economic challenges and geopolitical tensions and conflicts.  Remi Guillemin at the rostrum in Geneva.Photo courtesy Christie's  The last time the market was this hot was in the post-COVID era of 2021 and 2022. Guillemin believes this time is different, and he tells us why references from F.P. Journe and Cartier, and (surprise!) pocket watches, are driving the market these days and how that's a fundamental shift from the hype watch driven boom post-pandemic. He also shows us some of the watches in his personal collection and reveals the grail he's still chasing.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes 0:36 Remi Guillemin (Christie's website - scroll for bio) 1:00 Auctions: The Five Result...

Video: Meet The Artisans De Genève And Discover Their Exceptional Craft Fratello
Jul 29, 2026

Video: Meet The Artisans De Genève And Discover Their Exceptional Craft

Artisans de Genève is an independent watchmaking workshop offering handcrafted timepiece customization and restoration services. AdG is neither associated nor affiliated with the makers/brands of those timepieces. Artisans de Genève carries out work at the sole request of its customers, on their timepieces, for their private use only. The Artisans de Genève are a group […] Visit Video: Meet The Artisans De Genève And Discover Their Exceptional Craft to read the full article.

Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions Monochrome
Montblanc Jul 29, 2026

Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions

Earlier this year, Minerva stepped out from the shadow of Montblanc to reclaim its independent, stand-alone branding and celebrated the occasion by releasing two limited editions of the Unveiled Secret. Presented in compact 39mm cases with wine-red accents and a new, inverted in-house monopusher chronograph calibre exposed in all its magnificence on the dial, rest […]