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Announcements: Hodinkee Australia And New Zealand Is Live Hodinkee
May 4, 2026

Announcements: Hodinkee Australia And New Zealand Is Live

At Hodinkee, we have always believed that watch collecting is a global language, but one that is spoken with many different local accents. From the paved paths of Geneva to the neon-lit boutiques of Ginza and the steamy streets of New York City, the love for a mechanical heartbeat remains the same, yet the way we live with our watches is shaped entirely by the world around us. Today, we are thrilled to announce the next chapter in our journey: the official launch of Hodinkee Australia & New Zealand. The ANZ watch community has long been one of the most sophisticated and passionate in the world. For years, we've watched from New York as the Aussies and Kiwis became some of our communities' most ardent enthusiasts, known for a taste profile that is as rugged as it is refined. To bring Hodinkee to the region, we have partnered with Switzer Media + Publishing. With over 30 years of history, Switzer is one of Australia's most trusted names in media, already stewarding iconic titles like Harper's BAZAAR, Esquire, and Men's Health. This partnership functions as a local element from day one.  Speaking from my own perspective, with the continued success of Hodinkee Japan, I'm thrilled to be working with Jamie and the team at Switzer Media to offer a more locally relevant and engaging edition of Hodinkee for watch enthusiasts across Australia and New Zealand. The watch community in Australia and New Zealand is engaged, highly knowledgeable, and always an active part of the global c...

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SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva SJX Watches
May 4, 2026

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva

During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like AHCI and Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town. Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-011 In-Line Perpetual Calendar With A New Warm Silver-Gray Dial Fratello
Patek Philippe Ref 5236P-011 In-Line Perpetual May 4, 2026

Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-011 In-Line Perpetual Calendar With A New Warm Silver-Gray Dial

History (almost) repeats itself. One of my favorite releases from Watches and Wonders 2021 was the Patek Philippe ref. 5236P-001 In-Line Perpetual Calendar. One of my favorite releases from this year’s edition is the Patek Philippe ref. 5236P-011 In-Line Perpetual Calendar. The difference is a single number and a different dial color. The complicated yet […] Visit Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-011 In-Line Perpetual Calendar With A New Warm Silver-Gray Dial to read the full article.

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Hands On: Patek Philippe’s Celestial Goes to Space SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Celestial Goes May 4, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe’s Celestial Goes to Space

Perhaps the most surprising launch from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 was the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001. The ref. 6105G arrives over a decade after its predecessor, the ref. 6102 (2012), which in turn replaced the ref. 5102 (2002). While the prior model was an incremental evolution over the original, the ref. 6105G is a drastic redesign with its spaceship-inspired aesthetic and 47 mm (!) white gold case that wears unexpectedly well. The ref. 6105G is also an upgrade in mechanical terms with the addition of an elegant and simple sunrise and sunrise display that’s smartly implemented on the date ring, and driven by a clever compliant mechanism. And the ref. 6105G has another trick up its sleeve, a mechanism that accounts for summer and winter time (also known as daylight saving time), which shifts the time display as well as the date ring backwards or forwards as the seasons change. Initial thoughts Put simply, the ref. 6105G is weird but cool. Some of Patek Philippe’s recent experiments with design have been so-so in attractiveness, but the ref. 6105G scores well, maybe even the best amongst the brand’s adventurous designs. It’s unlike any other Patek Philippe ever with its huge case and integrated rubber strap, but it is appealing. Even though the star chart complication is a historical one descended from the Henry Graves Jr. “Supercomplication”, it feels like a perfect match for the sci-fi case. The case is huge at 47 mm, but the ...

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The Gübelin Ellipse: The Often Forgotten Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet Retailer’s Own Timepieces Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Retailer’s Own Timepieces It May 1, 2026

The Gübelin Ellipse: The Often Forgotten Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet Retailer’s Own Timepieces

It took a few years of being a watch enthusiast before I came across my first double-signed watch dial. I remember it was a Universal Geneve White Shadow with the word “Türler” written near the six o’clock position. Having never seen one before, I typed in a quick Google search to see what this had meant and, hours of research later, I came out a new watch collector––one with an eye and appreciation for double-signed watches. Up there with the likes of Cartier, Türler, Tiffany and Co., Mesiter, Trucchi, and other renowned jewelry retailers, Gübelin is a name any collector will frequently stumble upon when shopping for watches of this variety. When I came across this example of a solely Gübelin-branded timepiece, I knew I had to pick it up (especially for the >$100 price tag). This sent me down a rabbit hole of research similar to what the double-signed watches did. I wanted to understand the Gübelin brand and what it did for the world of horology, and I find it only necessary to share what I was able to find with all of you. Brief History of Gübelin Taking roots in 1854, Gübelin started in Lucerne as an independently run watch shop specializing in repairs and sales. The owner and lead watchmaker, Mauritz Breitschmid, would later agree to a partnership deal with young apprentice (and later son-in-law) Eduard Jakob Gübelin, sparking what would become decades of successful international business. As time went on, Gübelin became a powerhouse of the jewelry m...

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News – Rolex Quietly Updates the Datejust 41 and 36 in 2026 with new Roman Numeral Dials Monochrome
Rolex Quietly Updates May 1, 2026

News – Rolex Quietly Updates the Datejust 41 and 36 in 2026 with new Roman Numeral Dials

We’ve long come to understand that, during Watches and Wonders (where it releases almost its entire collection for the year), Rolex communicates only on certain of its novelties. What the brand considers the most important, the most relevant and the deepest updates. But, there’s very often more to the story than just what’s been presented […]

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Hands-On: The Citizen Eco-Drive Photon Keeps The Brand Ahead Of Their Light-Powered Competitors Hodinkee
Citizen Eco-Drive Photon Keeps May 1, 2026

Hands-On: The Citizen Eco-Drive Photon Keeps The Brand Ahead Of Their Light-Powered Competitors

A little over a month ago, Citizen celebrated the 50th anniversary of Eco-Drive with a massive bash in New York and a few new releases. The most striking, and unlike anything they had released in the past, was the new Photon. Aptly named, of course, because of the very particles—oh wait, or is it waves?—that power Eco-Drive movements. And before we get any further, these aren't solar watches like most watch movements that could be considered a "competitor" on the market. They are powered by any light around you, whether it's your office lights, home lights, or yes, the big bright ball in the sky that's starting to peek out more and more in New York. If you want to know more about Eco-Drive, our friend Griffin recently published a story about the technology (and its history) here. But this watch requires a slightly different history lesson. If you take a look at the dial below, you'll see it has a very unusual design. It's also out of the ordinary for Citizen, which prides itself on creating watches that can pass for any other watch aesthetically and don't require slits in the dial to transmit light (a problem other brands have struggled to engineer around). The new Citizen Eco-Drive Photons are two watches measuring 39.6mm by 9.9mm with integrated bracelets, all of which are made of Super Titanium with Duratect coating. One features a titanium carbide finish, while the other, with a two-tone dial and case band, uses a DLC finish. Each is limited to 5,000 pieces and ava...

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Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One SJX Watches
Voutilainen May 1, 2026

Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One

Mathieu Cleguer makes his debut under his own name, with the intricate Inspiration One. The relatively young movement constructor is well known in the industry but has not produced watches under his own name until now. Having worked for various movement specialists — including a stint at Akrivia — Mr Cleguer launches Cleguer Horology with a thoroughly impressive debut featuring a proprietary escapement.  Initial thoughts Although the market for artisanal time-only watches has becoming increasingly crowded, sometimes a new creation comes along that genuinely stands apart. This is the case with Cleguer Horology’s Inspiration One — a watch that that is surprisingly refined and technically imaginative for a new maker’s debut. Mathieu Cleguer is representative of a new class of independent watchmakers who are not ‘watchmakers’ in the traditional sense. Instead, he is an engineer, with the training and experience to bring fundamentally new concepts to life, so long as he can find the manufacturing partners and bench watchmakers to help realise his vision. It’s a fundamentally different background than what we’re used to seeing — George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe started their careers doing hands-on restoration work long before they designed movements of their own. But times have changed, and the emergence of engineer-led brands is a new trend made possible by the depth of the supplier network in Switzerland. For the visual design of...

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Summiting Mountains With A Tudor Heritage Ranger Fratello
Tudor Heritage Ranger I have May 1, 2026

Summiting Mountains With A Tudor Heritage Ranger

I have always believed that the best watches don’t merely time. Just as importantly, they also tell stories. Some carry the quiet rhythm of daily life, while others absorb something more visceral — altitude, effort, risk, and reward. When I spoke with Amarveer Brar, it became clear that his Tudor Heritage Ranger ref. 79910 belongs […] Visit Summiting Mountains With A Tudor Heritage Ranger to read the full article.

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Hands On: Ressence Type 11 SJX Watches
Ressence Type 11 Among May 1, 2026

Hands On: Ressence Type 11

Among the independent brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders, Ressence was a standout. The design-forward Belgian independent took a major step forward with the Type 11, powered by the brand’s first proprietary calibre, the RW-01. The Type 11 is tangibly appealing and priced well considering both its unique design and technical content. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Type 11 and its RW-01 movement, I had the same feeling as when Urwerk launched the EMC back in 2013. At the time, the EMC felt like the start of a new era for a brand that had, up to that point, primarily put its proprietary modules atop widely available off-the-shelf calibres. The EMC proved Urwerk was willing to rethink the movement in its entirety to realise a specific vision. The RW-01 reveals Ressence is moving in that same direction. After 15 years of adapting its Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) modules to ETA-derived calibres, the brand has taken the next step in its development and partnered with an adept supplier to construct a proprietary movement uniquely suited to its signature design. The new calibre was engineered with Ressence’s ROCS module in mind. The movement layout appears purpose-built for winding and setting via the case back, lacking an ordinary stem, and dual serially coupled mainspring barrels extend the power reserve to 60 hours — quite long considering the mass of the ROCS module. While I would have been delighted to see a free-sprung balance, I...

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Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Aeruse Blue Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Apr 30, 2026

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Aeruse Blue

If there's a watch that seemingly stole the hearts of many collectors this year at Watches and Wonders, it's definitely Chopard's new blue-dialed L.U.C 1860 dress watch. The funniest part is that the new model is really only a dial color change. That's it. And yet, among a sea of new designs and complications, Chopard managed to pull off something much larger than its description on paper, and ended up being one of my personal favorite releases from the show. If you're familiar with the previous, now-discontinued salmon dial version of the L.U.C 1860 released back in 2023, well, chances are you already know much about this watch. But its identical specs are very much a good thing, as I think Chopard has really hit a home run with the 1860 as a proper, compact, and thin (8.2mm) dress watch amongst its larger L.U.C. movement-powered siblings.  The 36.5mm case in Chopard's Lucent Steel alloy is very safe in its design, with smooth, curved lines and a fully-polished, rounded bezel and top lugs. While there aren't any little extra design touches that add any additional flair, the sides are vertically brushed to create a bit of contrast. Is the case boring as a result? Certainly not in my eye, as its subdued character works well in the 36.5mm format and, most importantly, it serves as a very nice frame for a spectacular dial. That dial, produced by Chopard's in-house dialmaker Metalem, is an absolute home run. And it surprises me to say this, given that I typically don't care a...

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Hands-on – The New Hajime Asaoka Tsunami Edition Blanche, A Subtle Evolution of a Modern Classic Monochrome
Ming ly simple especially Apr 30, 2026

Hands-on – The New Hajime Asaoka Tsunami Edition Blanche, A Subtle Evolution of a Modern Classic

Some watches impress instantly, while others reveal themselves slowly. The Tsunami by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka looks disarmingly simple, especially at first glance: a compact, time-only watch with classical proportions, a sort of high-end Japanese Calatrava, as sleek and discreet as it can be. Spend time with it, and it opens up, becoming a […]

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Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial Hodinkee
Naoya Hida Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial

What We Know It's spring, which means it's time for Naoya Hida's annual trunk show, where the brand tours the world to showcase its new watches. If you're in town for one of their few stops (like next week in New York), you can treat it like any tailor's trunk show and find out if the watch is a good fit. And every year, Hida-san and his team unveil a few new styles. In fact, you can see the ten releases on offer below. Some are familiar; others have small tweaks (the Type1 is now the Type1E because of the new domed crystal that makes it 10.9mm). But there are three watches that are so distinctly new that it's worth talking about. Let's go in numerical order, starting with a watch that is essentially just a dial revision, but it's a dramatic one at that. The Type2 series has been around for six years now as the brand's central seconds movement, followed by revisions in 2021 and then the coveted collaboration with The Armoury in 2022, called "The Lettercutter." I know a lot of people fought to get that piece, but there's a new Type2C-2 that's going to get some attention. While a big draw for Naoya Hida is the hand-engraved German or Argentium silver dials (in fact, that's where a lot of the price goes), they've pivoted here to their first-ever porcelain dial. The watch, powered by a Cal. 3020CS manually-wound movement with 45-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate, is cased in 37mm by 11.4mm stainless steel with a 44.8mm lug-to-lug. The glass is a curved sapphire crystal with...

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Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” Hodinkee
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

What We Know Ahead of this weekend's Miami Grand Prix, Tudor has announced the Black Bay Chrono "Carbon 26," a follow-up to last year's Carbon 25. While Tudor's ties to motorsport date back to the late 1960s with the Tudor Watches Racing Team, its current partnership with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls team began in 2024, and they have been quick to make the most of it, with two limited editions in two consecutive seasons. The Carbon 25 marked the first limited-edition release from that relationship, with the Carbon 26 continuing the same approach in 2026. At its core, the update centers on a revised color scheme reflecting the livery of the VCARB 03 car. The watch retains a 42mm carbon fiber case with a fixed tachymeter bezel, along with a titanium caseback, crown, and pushers with a black PVD finish. The dial remains "racing white," now with yellow accents and carbon fiber subdials. The carbon fiber case, introduced last year, carries over unchanged. It replaces the steel case used in standard Black Bay Chronographs, while keeping the same 42mm diameter, fixed tachymeter bezel, screw-down crown, chronograph pushers, and overall case profile. Inside is the Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813, an automatic chronograph with a column wheel, vertical clutch, silicon balance spring, and a 70-hour power reserve. It is COSC-certified, and it also meets Tudor's more rigorous standards of -2/+4 seconds per day. The Black Bay Chrono "Carbon 26" is priced at $8,625, produced in a...

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A Big Update for the Christopher Ward Sealander Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sealander Apr 30, 2026

A Big Update for the Christopher Ward Sealander

With Christopher Ward, we spend a lot of time talking about the Loco and Bel Canto, and rightly so. Those are both watches that have radically reshaped how we think about the brand, and set expectations for new releases at an impossibly high level. But realistically, it’s the Sealander that is the defining watch in the Christopher Ward catalog. It’s existed for a long time and is almost a brand unto itself. But the core of the line has been relatively unchanged for several years at this point and was due for a refresh. That comes this week, as the brand has launched what they describe as a “comprehensive re-engineering” of the Sealander GMT and Sealander Automatic that includes both subtle aesthetic updates as well as significant mechanical improvements.  The Sealander GMT adds a 42mm case size to the existing lineup that includes 36mm and 39mm sizes. The case has retained its fluid, classic sports watch lines, but the bezel angle has been shifted to be less angled than previous iterations of the watch.  Dial options include white and sky blue in all three case sizes, with a pistachio option available only in 39mm, and a black dial available in 39mm and the new 42mm size. The dials are polished lacquer and now include longer indices and a GMT hand that has been redesigned to be more proportionate and is also fully lacquered. The “Sealander” wordmark also appears on the dial, at 6:00, for the first time. The Sealander GMT is powered by the Sellita SW330-2 cali...

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