Results for Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève)

eBay Finds: A Pair of Vintage Seamasters, a Nice Citizen Bullhead Chrono, and a Funky Jump Hour

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille The Seamaster DeVille line was Omega’s dressier version of their sporty Seamaster. This example looks much like the Geneve line they put out, with its simple round case and thin bezel with straight skinny lugs. Very clean and classic 1960’s dress watch look, especially with the gold cap case. The 34-35mm case is in nice shape, and the gold cap is holding up strong. The original silver dial looks good, with a few specks here and there. The watch has the correct and original crown, and also comes with the original seven-row beads of rice bracelet! Seller states the watch runs and keeps time, so you’re all set for your next cocktail party! View auction here 1970s Initial Dynamic  Here’s a wild one for you, a vintage 1970’s direct read/jump hour from Initial Dynamic. Don’t worry if you’ve never heard of them, I haven’t either! But that doesn’t mean this isn’t a super cool looking watch. Check out that oval ‘dial’, with the awesome direct read window on the left, and matching date window on the right. The chrome plated case is excellent, with sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The strap looks original to me, with a cool met...

When the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is More Than an Entry-Level Watch

A no-frills time-only watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is now the brand’s entry-level model that’s available in a variety of dial styles and sizes, including the sought-after “Bubbles” dial. But Rolex has been making watches for long enough that the Oyster Perpetual from many moons ago is now a six- or seven-figure watch. Two of these special Oyster Perpetuals figure prominently in Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. They are final two lots on the last day of the sale: lot 218 is the Oyster Perpetual ref. 6098 “Galaxy”, and lot 219 is the Oyster ref. 6102 cloisonné “La Caravelle” with bombe lugs. The Oyster ref. 6098 “Galaxy” The Oyster ref. 6102 “La Caravelle”. Both are time-only watches with Oyster cases, but the opposite of no-frills. They date from the 1950s, when Rolex was experimenting with a diverse range of dials for the Oyster Perpetual (and perhaps the recent 1908 in platinum is a return to form?) The “Galaxy” gets its name from the star-shaped indices on the glossy black dial, while “La Caravelle” refers to the cloisonné enamel dial made by a leading enameller of the period, Margueritte Koch. Today’s Oyster Perpetual with the “Celebration” dial of coloured bubbles Star-crossed Rolex watches with star dials are marvellous watches (which is why it was the inspiration for our Habring² Erwin “Star”). The most famous and expensive type of Rolex with such a dial is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar. Less widel...

Review: the new Hermès CUT

At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, Hermés released a new model lineup which they call CUT. We got our hands on one, and here is our review.

New: Beauregard Ulysse

An interesting collaboration, perhaps somewhat unexpected, between Beauregard and Vianney Halter. Presented at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024.

Just Because – The Battle for the World’s Thinnest Watches (incl. Video)

Some of the standout highlights of the 2024 Watch Week in Geneva undoubtedly revolved around ultra-thin watches. Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC now reigns as the world’s thinnest mechanical wristwatch, boasting an astonishing 1.70mm profile. Meanwhile, Piaget clinched the record for the thinnest tourbillon ever with its Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, measuring a mere 2mm! […]

Introducing – The New Roger Dubuis Excalibur Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon

Just unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva, the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Orbis in Machina places the tourbillon at its core, evoking a design reminiscent of the 2022 Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon DBEX1025. With knights in shining armour gone searching for a different place, this timepiece presents a fresh aesthetic, featuring contrasting concentric […]

Introducing – Montblanc Goes Deep-Diving with the Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810m

Montblanc introduced its white star logo in 1913, an emblem which has graced the caps of its fountain pens and, later, the crowns of its watches. While the logo is universally recognised, some folk might not know that it represents a stylised bird’s eye view of the snow-capped peak of Mont Blanc and its six […]

First Look – The New Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad, Decked Out in Lightweight Titanium

At this year’s Geneva edition of Watches & Wonders, Ulysse Nardin is introducing a new version of its Freak S with aesthetic updates that make the ingenious, complex, unorthodox watch even more compelling. Introduced by Ulysse Nardin in 2001 under the visionary leadership of the late Rolf Schnyder, the original Freak sparked a wave of […]

Just Because – All the new Rolex Models of Watches and Wonders 2024, Live from the Show (incl. Video)

Today was the opening of the most important event of the year for the watch industry, Watches and Wonders Geneva. Among all the brands present at the show, Rolex is always a highlight and its watches are some of the most new releases. We’ve already covered in separate articles the new GMT Master II with […]

First Look – The Epitome of Discreet Luxury, The new Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier in Lucent Steel

A compact, elegant, and sublimely discreet L.U.C Qualité Fleurier heralds two firsts for Chopard. It is the first watch to receive the coveted seal since Chopard became the sole guardian of the Qualité Fleurier Foundation in 2022, and it is also the first watch of this elite family to be made in Lucent Steel. The […]

Cartier at Watches & Wonders 2024: The new Privé Tortue and Santos-Dumont Rewind steal the show

Pre-Owned Picks: A Neo-Vintage Audemars Piguet, A Limited Edition Breitling Navitimer Rattrapante, And A Late ’80s Rolex Sea-Dweller

Plus a wild card entry from Bell & Ross.

‘Ataelier Haute Complication’ Dual Time by Vladimir Négault: A François-Paul Journe Disciple Making Sensational Watches with a Polarizing Design and Inventive Complications

Vladimir Négault, founder of Ataelier Haute Complication, a relatively new independent watchmaker based in Geneva who is making some of the most interesting and inventive watches Ian Skellern has ever seen.

The Sports Section: The Secret Tudor 'Hockey' Black Bay Chrono You've Never Seen (Until Now)

A commemorative watch for hometown Genève-Servette in a real underdog story.

Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review

Raymond Weil, founded in 1975 by its eponym and now owned and operated by the Bernheim family, is one of only a handful of independently owned Swiss watchmaking companies, alongside historic, prestigious maisons like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The Geneva-based company, however, occupies a different niche than those two high-horology powerhouses, having firmly established itself as a purveyor of “affordable luxury”  - producing well-designed watches with wide appeal that nevertheless rarely gain attention in the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. That all changed in 2023, however, when the sublimely refined design of the brand’s Millesime Small Seconds model took the coveted Challenge award in the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève (GPHG), the watch world’s equivalent of the Oscars. With its sober but meticulously embellished sector dial and slender case, the watch represents a throwback to a style of understatedly elegant dress watch that few seem to be making anymore. I had a chance to wear one for a couple weeks for a hands-on review. (To get Teddy's video take on the watch on our dedicated Reviews channel, click here.) Case: The round stainless steel case of the Millesime (the term comes from the world of fine wine, and appropriately translates to “vintage”) will settle perfectly into many enthusiasts’ sweet spot, at 39mm in diameter, and its thickness of just under 11mm (10.9mm, to be super-precise) will ensure that it set...

CWC 1980 Royal Navy Diver Re-Issue: A Tough Watch With Real Military Heritage

Get a detailed look at the CWC 1980 Royal Navy Diver re-issue. Read more for specs and a full review with original photos.

In-Depth: The Wild, (Mostly) Complete Story Of John Lennon’s Lost Patek Philippe 2499

A Geneva court ruled Yoko Ono is the owner of one of the world's most valuable watches, but that's only the beginning of a story of extortion, theft, and a watch that traveled around the world. Now that we know where it is, will we ever see it?

Chopard’s fiery first Australian limited edition is an Alpine Eagle designed by must-know First Nations artist Shal

Inspired by the beauty of Australian landscapes, this "Sunburnt Red" Alpine Eagle is unlike any other.The post Chopard’s fiery first Australian limited edition is an Alpine Eagle designed by must-know First Nations artist Shal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Philippe Dufour Simplicity Prototype No. 000 in Pink Gold

With “indies” all the rage now, auction catalogues usually have a generous helping of independent watchmaking. Amongst the many offerings from the genre this season, a handful stand out, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity prototype no. 000 in Phillips’ Geneva watch auction that takes place on November 3 and 4, 2023. This is one of three prototype watches Mr Dufour made for the 2000 Basel fair when the Simplicity made its debut. Two of them were in white gold with a silvered guilloche dial – Mr Dufour himself frequently wears one of them – and the last was this watch, which is pink gold with a white lacquered dial. Initial thoughts Today Philippe Dufour has grown beyond the personality and is essentially a brand, an evolution that arguably took place after the 20th anniversary Simplicity was launched 2020. In contrast, this Simplicity prototype, along with the first 200 examples Mr Dufour made, encapsulates the artisanal beginnings of the man and his brand. At the time of the Simplicity’s launch, and for more than a decade after, Mr Dufour found neither fame nor fortune, given that he only made a handful of Simplicity watches each year and sold each for about US$40,000. The early watches are perhaps purer creations that capture the essence of Mr Dufour’s vision, which was to pay tribute to the heyday of Vallee de Joux watchmaking. Mr Dufour, of course, managed to do it slightly better, explaining why his creations are often regarded as having the best m...

Real-World Diving With The Seiko Prospex The 1968 Automatic Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Limited Edition SLA055 – Reprise

As a fan of the extraordinary Seiko Prospex 1000, Dietmar Fuchs took the limited version of the reinterpretation of a famous Seiko diving watch diving and shares his real-world experience with it here.

The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Is A Future Classic

Coming off the first 90’s-inspired collaboration with Zodiac Watches is a new player in the lineup. The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag edition is chock full of 90’s nostalgia goodness. Inspired by the sights and sensations of gearing up and hitting the laser tag area, this watch features a ton of unique design cues that neither Worn & Wound nor Zodiac have done before. While our presentation of the watch is pure laser tag-induced fun, it’s a surprisingly versatile timepiece that’s sure to bring some color into your collection. Let’s take a closer look. Coming off the first 90’s-inspired collaboration with Zodiac Watches is a new player in the lineup. The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag edition is chock full of 90’s nostalgia goodness. Inspired by the sights and sensations of gearing up and hitting the laser tag area, this watch features a ton of unique design cues that neither Worn & Wound nor Zodiac have done before. While our presentation of the watch is pure laser tag-induced fun, it’s a surprisingly versatile timepiece that’s sure to bring some color into your collection. Let’s take a closer look. The post The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Is A Future Classic appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag is a raver’s dream

Decked out in photoreactive laser traces, the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf collaboration is one of the most fun releases of the yearThe post The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag is a raver’s dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Franck Muller Vanguard Beach is a summery sports watch inspired by the sea

An Asia-Pacific exclusive, this colourful new Franck Muller collection arrives just in time for Southern Hemisphere summer.The post The Franck Muller Vanguard Beach is a summery sports watch inspired by the sea appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package

For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Alpina has released two regular -production tribute versions of the tank-style Alpiner The Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years offers vintage looks with modern appointments Two dial variants are available: two-tone silver (US and international), and black (international only) For Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is looking back with the release … ContinuedThe post The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Not new, but still great: Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante

We take a second look at the rather amazing Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante. We had a close look at the watch again in Geneva this year.

Breaking News: Rolex Acquires Watch Retailer Bucherer

In a surprising move, Rolex has just announced the takeover of Bucherer, the Swiss watch retailer that is the largest seller of Rolex watches worldwide. Long the odd one out amongst luxury watch brands for not having its own retail network – hitherto Rolex owned just one store in Geneva – Rolex now owns the world’s biggest watch retailer outside of China and Hong Kong. Though headquartered in the quaint mountain town of Lucerne, Bucherer is a global giant with 100 points of sale in Europe and the United States, with Rolex and Tudor represented in half of them. A Rolex retailer since 1924, Bucherer boasts annual sales of almost CHF2 billion, with almost two-thirds of that from the sales of Rolex and Tudor watches. As a result, Bucherer is the largest retail partner for Rolex, accounting for almost 10% of Rolex’s estimated CHF10 billion in turnover. It was no coincidence that Bucherer was the first retailer in the world to embark on the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme. Bucherer will remain as an independent business after the takeover, which has to be approved by competition authorities. The terms of the sale were undisclosed. A logical surprise Although the news of the takeover was unexpected, it is a logical progression of events. Established in 1888, Bucherer has been in the hands of its founding family since then, with the company currently led by Jorg G. Bucherer, grandson of founder Carl F. Bucherer. Now almost 90 years old, Mr Bucherer is an industry legen...

Now in the Shop: 3 Summer Ready Ceramic Sea Wolves from Zodiac

Typically only used in higher watches, ceramic cases are a luxury not seen in the price range of these offerings from Zodiac. Based on the popular Super Sea Wolf design, these three watches forego their stainless steel cases for a fun and casual white ceramic. Let’s take a closer look at these brand new, summer-ready divers that still retain their tool watch specs even though they’re housed in different case. Typically only used in higher watches, ceramic cases are a luxury not seen in the price range of these offerings from Zodiac. Based on the popular Super Sea Wolf design, these three watches forego their stainless steel cases for a fun and casual white ceramic. Let’s take a closer look at these brand new, summer-ready divers that still retain their tool watch specs even though they’re housed in different case. The post Now in the Shop: 3 Summer Ready Ceramic Sea Wolves from Zodiac appeared first on Worn & Wound.

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph

These are the kinds of midweek surprises I can get on board with. TAG Heuer has revealed a new Carrera Skipper chronograph in the 39mm chassis we saw (and loved) earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. This is a regular production variant of the Carrera that makes excellent use of the sublime Skipper colorway we first saw in the late ‘60s, and most recently in the 2017 limited edition Carrera Skipper for Hodinkee. The color scheme feels right at home in the modern Carrera shoes, with plenty of small details to discover along the way. Best of all, it doesn’t feel like a vintage recreation, it feels purely modern through and through, taking full advantage of the new ‘glassbox’ design of the Carrera.  The latest Carrera sports a range of blue, green, and orange hues in a reflection of the original colorway which made the watch so distinctive. The base dial is a deep blue with contrasting seafoam hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and multicolor minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, which splits the counter into 5 minute segments to more accurately find your position going into the start of a yacht race. The final five minutes, as well as the timing seconds hand, are rendered in orange, denoting their importance to the operation. There is a running seconds hand within a third, almost hidden sub dial appearing at 6 o’clock, which isn’t framed and thus is the same color as the base of the dial. Only the indexes and the hand itself give its position away. The unique new ‘gl...

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon”

The Geneva spring auction season kicks off soon and as expected, most of the weekend’s highlights are the usual timepieces from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, including one that is a mix of both, the Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch made by Philippe Dufour. But one of the season’s most intriguing lot is altogether different – the Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” that’ll go under the hammer at Antiquorum. Both intriguing and quirky, the ref. 1252 “Chameleon” is essentially a sculptural bracelet that happens to have a small, manual-wind movement installed. While such bracelet wristwatches are common for jewellers like Cartier and Bulgari, the “Chameleon” is decidedly unconventional for Patek Philippe. Made in the late 1940s, this example of the “Chameleon” is only the second one known. The first example resides in the Patek Philippe Museum as inventory no. P-107. The “Chameleon” is perhaps more object than timekeeper. It has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000 – arguably not so much for a sculptural Patek Philippe of which only two are known, or a pricey, oddball ladies’ watch. But it is unquestionably interesting and perhaps one of the most intriguing objects on the block this weekend. The “Chameleon” is lot 450 and has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000. Its archive extract has been ordered and is pending according to Antiquorum. For more, visit Antiquorum.com.  

Editorial: Happenings Around the Halls of Watches & Wonders

With the demise of Baselworld shortly before the pandemic and the evolution of SIHH into Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the Geneva fair is now the most important watch event on the planet. Having just closed, W&W; recorded massive visitor numbers and unexpectedly buoyant sentiment amongst industry executives. Despite the implosion of Credit Suisse the week before and assorted troubles around the world, sentiment at the fair amongst industry insiders was robust, catching most by surprise. Brands executives indicated orders from retailers were good as was interest from clients, and expressed optimism for the coming year. Pessimism was hard to find, although a handful of well-placed individuals high up in important brands quietly pondered what things would look like in six months – the health of components suppliers to the industry will provide a clue. The irony is that brands run by such thoughtful individuals are usually the best placed to weather any downturn. Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour (left), who is also the chairman of the W&W; foundation Everyone wants a look To anyone who was at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the most tangible fact was the enormous and occasionally unmanageable crowd. According to its organisers, visitors numbered 43,000, compared to just 22,000 last year. Unsurprisingly, the celebratory mood of the organisers was clear in the closing announcement for the event. However, the preparations for the jump in visitors were clearly insufficient because ...