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Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SBGW323 pairs the hue of the purple kiri flower with the brand's famed Mt. Iwate dial texture - all within a 36.5mm 44GS case.The post Grand Seiko’s 36.5mm 44GS gets a purple “Kiri” dial with the new SBGW323 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Since 1991, Jaeger-LeCoultre has marked each new decade of the Reverso with a special edition, beginning with the Soixantième, which celebrated the model’s 60th anniversary. Introduced in 1931, the Reverso remained a time-only watch until this milestone edition became the first to feature complications. A decade later, the Septantième showcased the brand’s expertise in movement […]
Worn & Wound
Last year, I had the privilege of sitting down with Benoit de Clerck to talk about all things Zenith. At the time, Benoit was just a few short months into his tenure as CEO of Zenith, and Watches & Wonders was only barely in the rearview, but de Clerck made it very clear that he was already looking ahead, not just generally, but towards something very specific, and very exciting. “I’m working hard on something new next year, which - obviously - I like, because it’s very unique, and we’re producing very small quantities and all that. And, I can’t tell you much more, but next year we’re celebrating our 160th year and we will come up with something that the collectors will be very, very, very happy with.” Well, now, nearly a year later, we know what that “something new” is, and de Clerck was absolutely right - because it is something to be very, very happy with. I’m talking, of course, about the new Zenith G.F.J. G.F.J., in this case, stands for Georges Favre-Jacot, the name of the man who founded Zenith some 160 years ago, but it might as well stand for ‘Great F***ing Job’ because Zenith has knocked it out of the park with this one. At the heart of the G.F.J. is a revived version of the calibre 135, a historically significant and long-dormant movement, designed by Ephrem Jobin in the years after World War II and produced from 1949 to 1962. The Calibre 135 was widely used by Zenith at that time, but especially prized is the 135-O variant created...
Monochrome
Grand Seiko introduced the Tokyo Lion’s bold, angular case design in 2019 and since then, additional editions have multiplied its aesthetic -limited and regular production-the most recent being the 2024 Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 Tokyo Lion and the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275. This year, the Grand Seiko Sport collection expands by unveiling a […]
Worn & Wound
I love a worldtimer complication, if only because it allows me to envision a timeline in which I’m a spunky world traveler who isn’t afraid of losing my passport or getting lost in the desert. Something about seeing the names of all the places I haven’t been to (yet) on my watch is a surefire cheer-up when the world inside my apartment starts feeling a little small. Pair that global functionality with mature, elegant styling, and you have the new NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer. Measuring at a democratic 40mm with an equally accessible 20m lug width, the Worldtimer’s stainless steel case is kept slim and simple-so slim, in fact, that it claims to be one of the world’s thinnest worldtimer watches. NOMOS Glashütte’s proprietary caliber DUW 3202 neomatik movement is to thank for 4.8mm of the impressive 9.9mm total thickness of the watch and is still robust enough to offer the NOMOS swing system with DUW regulation and 100m of water resistance. And while all of this is remarkable in its own right, the German brand has more than impressive mechanical achievement up its sleeve with the Worldtimer. Functionality is straightforward, and while the dial layout is a bit different from the enthusiast favorite Worldtimer NOMOS has been making for years, the pushbutton ease of cycling through world time zones will be familiar to anyone who has experienced one of those earlier watches. Just press the pusher at 2 o’clock until your current time zone is a...
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Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a series of Reverso timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2025 that are sure to pull the heartstrings of any Reverso lover.
Monochrome
Select members of Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle and Patrimony families have been invited to join in the 270th-anniversary celebrations. Eight references from both families have been singled out for the special treatment and flaunt dials decorated with a unique motif created for the 270th anniversary of the brand. As important as the dial, the manufacture calibres […]
Deployant
Our next appointment is at Hermès. And as with our Live from WWG25 series this week, we bring you for our visit and you see this live from the PalExpo.
Time+Tide
The prolific observatory chronometer calibre is back.The post Has the Zenith G.F.J. actually achieved perfection? Maybe, and the Calibre 135 certainly helps. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Much to the chagrin of my fellow automotive enthusiast friends, I am not an ardent Formula 1 follower-I prefer motorsports of the all-wheel drive variety, coated in mud in the Finnish wilderness. Still, the allure of the screaming engines, blinding speed, and pure bling of Formula 1 isn’t lost on me. Millions of fans worldwide are captivated by the sport and its entrants for a reason-and TAG Heuer, the official timekeeper of Formula 1, has nine new references to match that ever-growing fervor. In celebration of the colorful 1986 origin of the brand’s Formula 1 Collection, the new models feature bright hues and a reimagined design. Three of the nine pieces feature the more “classic” dial colors of black and white or blue on a steel bracelet. The remaining six are limited edition colorways: black and red, black and yellow, blue and black, white and green, white and red, and green and red. According to TAG Heuer, each model pays direct homage to the 1986 collection in design and function. However, key changes reflect contemporary taste-instead of the original 35mm, the new cases (constructed of sandblasted steel or TH-Polylight depending on the model) measure 38mm but retain the sporty aesthetic that the line is known for. The original shield-shaped markers have also been modernized, appearing now as applied and Super-Luminova-treated indexes. The “Mercedes”-style hands carry on, as does the chunky 60-second scale bezel, date window at 3 o’clock, and agg...
Video
![[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/03/GS_WW_UFA_021WR.jpg)
Worn & Wound
2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...
Worn & Wound
Reinventing the wheel can be overrated-sometimes, expanding on an already-beloved design is the best way to drum up excitement. The original Heuer Carrera-released in 1963 as Jack Heuer’s horological love letter to the 1950s Carrera Panamericana Road Race held in Mexico-would develop as a symbol of motorsports success over the following decades, frequently gifted to victorious drivers at huge events. As the current official timekeeper of Formula 1, the Swiss company is continuing that legacy of motorsports prowess with new watches in the Carrera Day-Date collection, keeping the elements that have made the watch an icon, while pushing the design ever forward. With six new models and ample features, the Day-Date collection can seem as daunting as an F1 circuit at first. Five of the models, though, are mechanically identical, with differences ranging from materials to color schemes-these are the “regular” Day-Date pieces, while the Date Twin-Time represents a distinct complication. First, let’s take a look at the new Day-Date references. Each Day-Date features a fine-brushed and polished steel 41mm case with a steel polished crown at 3 o’clock, a beveled and domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, and a steel screw-down case back that touts a 100m water resistance. A Calibre TH31-02 automatic movement pulses inside each Day-Date, and a day-date window sits at the 3:00 position. White Super-LumiNova additionally coats the hour and mi...
Monochrome
The Big Crown Pointer Date, an important piece in the history of Oris since 1938, has lived through various iterations over the years, evolving with the times to introduce changes and improvements but always faithful to the spirit of the original. In 2021, Oris introduced a 38mm Big Crown Pointer Date model powered by calibre […]
Monochrome
For many years, the only two Nomos models that offered traveler-oriented functions were the Zurich Weltzeit (a.k.a Zurich Worldtimer) and the Tangomat GMT, which had airport codes to denote the 24 time zones. This year at Watches and Wonders, the Glashütte-based brand presents a new movement to power its Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer series, which […]
Monochrome
Montblanc‘s appreciation for Minerva‘s heritage drives its evolution as a watchmaker. The brand embraces Minerva’s time-honoured craftsmanship and savoir-faire by celebrating traditional techniques while exploring the possibilities of modern horology. This commitment is again evident in the newly unveiled 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar, a timepiece poised to become a standout addition to Montblanc’s collection with […]
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Teddy Baldassarre
The year 2025 marks 160 years since the founding of Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland, back in 1865. As watchmaking brands are wont to do, Zenith is commemorating this milestone by putting forward a watch for the occasion that’s representative of its storied history, as well as its own contemporary identity. Now, as Watches & Wonders 2025 kicks off, we are clear on how the brand aims to celebrate the occasion, and its chosen vehicle is a new collection inspired by Zenith’s own founder, complete with an update on its storied Caliber 135, which breathes fresh life into an old favorite movement. These are the conditions in which the rising star of the G.F.J. collection joins Zenith’s constellation. At the tail end of the 19th century, the mounting competition within the watch industry brought about a new standard of gauging the accuracy of movements, and watchmakers began employing observatory trials to signal to customers that their products were as accurate as possible. This was also at a time in which highly accurate timepieces were necessary for successful marine navigation. Before the COSC certification standards that are so rigidly defined today were coded, individual movements would be sent to observatories, where they would undergo testing procedures, as well as competitions for chronometry prices. Zenith details that it had been routinely entering chronometry trials as early as 1897. And, because a bit of healthy bragging is appropriate with brag-worthy achieveme...
Fratello
Since 2021, Nomos has been steadily expanding its Club Sport Neomatik collection. The first reference was the 42mm Date, which came on a new three-row bracelet. Each year since then, a new size has joined the brand’s sportier collection. You can now choose between the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik in 34, 37, 39, and 42mm […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Makes A Fantastic Landing to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 2022, we went as far as to consider the Tudor Black Bay Pro GMT the best tool watch we have seen that year, impressed by its cool design, ultra-robust construction and fair price. A perfect adventure watch, solid and legible, with a GMT complication for travellers – a do-it-all, wear-it-everywhere. This year, this Tudor […]
Monochrome
The Streamliner collection was introduced by H. Moser & Cie in 2020 and was an overnight success. Its groovy integrated cushion design was fresh, original and brilliantly executed. Since its inception, we’ve seen a wide range of time-only, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and chronograph models, and even several fascinating skeletonised iterations. Moser also loves to play […]
Deployant
Live handling photographs of the new Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon. A brand new tourbillon from Czapek with interesting features.
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Monochrome
Since its introduction in 1932, many consider the Calatrava reference 96 as the paragon of an elegant dress watch. Although the collection has expanded in different directions, fans of the classical, timeless, time-only, ultra-slim, manual-winding dress watch will be pleased to learn about the latest Calatrava released during Watches & Wonders 2025. With its vintage-inspired […]
Time+Tide
IWC's integrated sports/engineer's watch gets a slightly larger 42mm case and bracelet made totally from black ceramic.The post The IWC Ingenieur arrives in full ceramic for the very first time (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s a big year, literally and figuratively, for the Black Bay. This year, Tudor has introduced the all new Black Bay 68, continuing with a naming convention that began with the Black Bay 58 all those years ago. The new Black Bay 68 fills out the range of vintage inspired Black Bays with an all new size for the range, coming in at 43mm. According to Tudur, the new size was created to meet demand from customers who wanted a dive watch with a larger footprint. After the Black 58 and Black Bay 54 (both under 40mm) and the longstanding “standard” Black Bay coming in at 41mm, the Black Bay 68 represents genuinely new ground for the collection in terms of size, and signals that the small watch trend that many say started with the Black Bay 58 might be coming to an end. If you’re familiar with the various forms of the Black Bay, there won’t be too many surprises here. The case is stainless steel with a unidirectional black bezel, with dial options in blue and silver. The dials are subtly domed and have a barely-there radially brushed finish, and are matched with large lume filled hour markers. The hands are the now familiar “Snowflake” style launched in 1969. While the case is 43mm, the important thing to note about these watches is that they are proportionally identical to the Black Bay 54 and Black Bay 58. So, in spite of the larger size, they wear in a way that feels quite familiar if you’ve spent any time at all with either of those earlier Black Bays. Accor...
Fratello
For a long time, Zenith kept us guessing about what its celebratory 160th-anniversary release would be. But if you know something about Zenith, the social media posts hinted at something special related to the brand’s rich history in observatory chronometer competitions. With the release of the Zenith G.F.J., the watchmaker from Le Locle brings its […] Visit Zenith Celebrates Its 160th Anniversary In Style With The New G.F.J. to read the full article.
Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier’s main novelty for Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Toric Perpetual Calendar. Following the route map charted by CEO Guido Terreni for the brand, the Toric Perpetual Calendar embodies understated luxury and refined minimalism. Like other models in the Toric collection, the new QPs are housed in precious metal cases featuring the signature […]
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