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Monochrome
Bianchet is a relatively young high-end brand founded by Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa-Bianchet, and based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Since 2021, the brand has been offering modern tonneau-shaped watches powered by architectural openworked tourbillon movements. Early 2025 marked the launch of an important model for the brand, the UltraFino, its first ultra-thin model, its first […]
Monochrome
The name Toric at Parmigiani Fleurier carries great importance. It was, after all, the very first made by founder Michel Parmigiani when he decided to fly solo. An elegant watch characterised by its gadroons and knurled surfaces, it underwent a significant update last year with the launch of the new Toric collection. But more than just an […]
SJX Watches
Massena Lab’s latest collaboration is a steampunk regulator wristwatch created together with Vianney Halter. Blending the best of both their respective styles, the Old Soul is an unusual yet appealing proposition for collectors looking to get a sampling of the independent watchmaker’s best known works. The Old Soul displays the time regulator-style, with the hours, minutes, and seconds on separate registers. But it indicates the minutes with a clever trick: a “floating” minute pointer on a clear sapphire disc. Inside is a vintage Minerva movement that’s been dressed up for the occasion but still recognisable as an early-20th century calibre. Initial thoughts The Old Soul a continuation of the collection that began with the Old School made together with Luca Soprana. If Massena Lab founder William Rohr’s aesthetic sensibilities prevailed with the earlier watch, it is Mr Halter’s signature style that dominates the Old Soul. The Old Soul is unquestionably quirky - both as a whole and in the details. The watch looks like a regulator, but lacks the traditional vertical sub-dial arrangement. It also lacks a central minute hand, featuring instead a “floating” diamond-shaped pointer. The “floating” hand is a nifty optical illusion but it’s a straightforward concept that replaces the hand with a clear disc. Inside the piece ticks an equally unexpected movement, a “new old stock” Minerva cal. 17.22. According to Massena Lab, it was the discovery of a fo...
Teddy Baldassarre
Solar watches are an eco-friendly alternative to traditional quartz watches with lithium battery-powered movements. Watches with solar-powered movements still maintain the accuracy and reliability of quartz technology, which makes them much more precise than any mechanical watch. Here's a brief history of solar technology in watchmaking and a selection of notable solar watches on sale now. Solar Watch Technology - A Brief History In the late 1960s, the Swiss watch industry was on the precipice of a technical revolution that would ultimately threaten the very existence of traditional mechanical watchmaking while simultaneously ushering in the dawn of mass-produced electronic watches. By the 1970s, quartz movements had won out over a handful of other early technological approaches to producing electronic watches (you can delve a bit more into that history here), giving rise to the era now known known within the industry as the Quartz Crisis. Experiments with using solar power to charge watches, however, go all the way back to the '60s, to the development of the first solar-powered movement by American engineer Roger Riehl. This technology was introduced to the market in 1972, with the first prototype called the “Synchronar” and the first production piece, the Synchronar 2100, released later that same year. Priced at nearly $500 (about $3,200 in today's money), the Synchronar 2100 was considered something of a luxury product and struggled to compete in...
Fratello
In a fast-paced world, slow and steady progress is not often the chosen growth path for small watch brands. However, Traska has chosen this path and, as a result, has cultivated a passionate and dedicated following that loves the brand and its strategy. I have been keeping an eye on Traska over the past couple […] Visit Hands-On: The Traska Commuter 38 - A Daily Driver That Leaves A Lasting Impression to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Offering acres of blue on one's wrist, this commemorative Zenith chronograph is a ceramic tour de force.The post This Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph in blue ceramic is electric appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A few months ago when Seiko unveiled their Jaws watch, I didn’t really think much of it. Jaws is one of the most popular movies ever made, and it’s celebrating a big anniversary this year. In a world where watch brands collaborate with all kinds of silly entities for all kinds of silly reasons, it seemed like a pretty normal release. Then, just in the last week, Seiko announced a trio of watches bearing the Datsun name. OK, a Japanese car – a cult classic car at that – doesn’t require a whole lot of mental gymnastics to figure out. But then yesterday, when I opened Instagram over my morning coffee and saw the new Seiko “Pepsi” watches, reader I have to admit: it broke my brain a little. At first I thought it must be a prank or a joke. Maybe Seiko’s account got hacked and one of these new AI engines built an entire marketing campaign around the most on-the-nose “collaboration” yet? But no, a little digging revealed that the two new Seiko 5 Sports watches with blue and red Pepsi bezels were indeed an endeavor bearing the name of the number 2 cola in the country. We’ve been referring to bezels in this colorway as “Pepsi” bezels for longer than I’ve been involved in the watch industry, as a hobbyist and certainly as a professional. It certainly never occurred to me that one day the beverage company would sign on as what amounts to an official partner with a watch brand. But it’s a testament to the ultra-corporatized watch world we’re all livin...
Time+Tide
Emerging brands are working hard to be present in these slow weeks when most of the industry is on vacation.The post New releases from Minase, Bremont, Konstantin Chaykin × Behrens and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In a surprising move from the conservative watchmaker, Rolex has quietly set up Rolex Quantum SA, a new entity dedicated to atomic timekeeping, the most precise form of timekeeping ever invented by man. Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour will sit on the board of Rolex Quantum, with engineer Fabien Droz serving as director of the venture. With Rolex Quantum, the watchmaker plans to develop and sell atomic clocks, conceivably for industrial or scientific purposes. Being somewhat removed from the core Rolex offering of wristwatches, the atomic clocks will be developed separate from the main Rolex brand. The new venture strengthens the brand’s ties with CSEM (Swiss Center for Electronics and Microtechnology), the Swiss technical institute most famous in watchmaking for having developing silicon component for watch movements. The venture will benefit from Rolex’ broad industrial research and development capabilities, while also leveraging CSEM’s experience with atomic timekeeping. The establishment of Rolex Quantum was first reported by Swiss newspaper Arcinfo. Neuchâtel timing Despite the cutting edge nature of its work, Rolex Quantum will be located on historic grounds, namely on the same street as the Neuchâtel Observatory, which is current home to CSEM’s atomic timekeeping laboratory. The location also has historical resonance as the city has long played a role in watchmaking and chronometry over the years. Abraham-Louis Breguet was born there and the obs...
Monochrome
Founded by Georges Eberhard in 1887 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Eberhard & Co. had established itself as a purveyor of innovative, technically advanced chronographs by 1919. Although the independent brand is well-known among Italian collectors, and its Chrono 4 model, with four separate counters inspired by the dashboard of race cars, might resonate with some readers, […]
Time+Tide
This artisanal gem-set Imperiale combines lavish métiers d'art with a unique, slow-moving complication.The post Chopard gracefully slows down the pace with the stunning new Imperiale Four Seasons appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
When it was launched last year, MING’s 37.02 Minimalist represented several firsts for Ming Thein’s independent Malaysian brand. For starters, it was the brand’s first watch made at MING’s facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Ironically, though, the watch could not bear the “Swiss Made” label because the design and engineering were executed in Kuala Lumpur. […]
Deployant
For the 2025 season of the Tour de France Tudor sponsored team will be racing. And to celebrate, Tudor releases the Pelagos FXD Yellow.
WatchAdvice
A chronograph that blends sporty functionality with refined Italian elegance. This is the Octo Roma Chronograph: a timepiece that feels as good on the wrist as it looks. What We Love The beautiful blue Clous de Paris dial adds texture and depth while remaining versatile for everyday wear. The watch is very comfortable to wear and fits slimmer wrists perfectly thanks to short lug-to-lug distance. Distinctive Octo Roma design blends sporty functionality with refined Italian elegance. What We Don’t The date window colour is not matched to the dial, slightly disrupting the cohesive aesthetic. The caseback winding rotor could be skeletonised for a more modern and engaging view of the movement. Lume application could be stronger for enhanced low-light legibility during evening wear. Overall Rating: 8.4/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 First introduced in 2012, Bvlgari’s Octo collection showcased the brand’s architectural design and mechanical mastery. This collection stood out proudly thanks to its distinctive case design, where the round bezel with an eight-sided profile gave it a distinctive silhouette. The Octo collection, however, quickly became known for so much more than this signature design. Breaking records became the norm for the collection, as the brand kept pushing the boundaries of watchmaking through the Octo Finissimo timepieces which debuted in 2014. Three years later, in 2017, Bvlgari introduced the late...
Fratello
Fabian “Spartacus” Cancellara is a Swiss cycling legend who not only won multiple world and Olympic championships but also wore the Tour de France’s yellow leader’s jersey for 29 days and won eight stages. The last time Cancellara raced in France was in 2016, and this year, he returns to the biggest bike race in […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Yellow” to read the full article.
Monochrome
As most of you might know as of now, Tudor is now deeply involved in cycling, not only as one of the sponsors of a team, but actually the brand is the sole sponsor of a racing crew, partnering with cycling legend Fabian Cancellara to create the Tudor Pro Cycling Team. Tudor unveiled a special […]
Fratello
Chronoswiss is by no means the biggest name in watchmaking, but the brand from Lucerne is always instantly recognizable. For instance, it has a reputation for using the biggest crowns in the business. Joking aside, Chronoswiss’s use of XL onion crowns, coin-edge bezels, and regulator-style dials in bold and bright colors made the brand stand […] Visit Hands-On With The Full-Titanium Chronoswiss Pulse One Sand: An Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch With A Twist to read the full article.
Fratello
Let’s be thankful that, in the watch world, “evolution” doesn’t always mean “getting larger.” Take the new 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (FC-776SAL3H6) as an example. This watch’s predecessor debuted in 2016 in a 42mm case. It was an important introduction because it was the market’s most affordable mechanical perpetual calendar watch when […] Visit Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture to read the full article.
Monochrome
The original Farer Aqua Compressor Endeavour from 2017 was a surprise from the small British brand. Not only did it have an impressive 300-metre water-resistance rating, but it was also a bona fide super compressor – its caseback compressed against a gasket as water pressure increased with depth, forming a tighter seal. The latest trio in […]
Worn & Wound
When it comes to watches from big, corporate owned brands, it’s sometimes hard these days to find designs that feel fresh and inventive. This just the way of the watch world. Particularly in an environment where it might be difficult to sell a watch (Swiss exports are down, tariff threats loom, etc) you can forgive the biggest brands for playing it safe, putting products on the market that they know will sell to their core customers. They might not be the most creative watches ever devised, but if they exhibit a “first, do no harm” mentality, that’s probably a win in the eyes of many brands. One of the things I’ve always appreciated about Rado is that it feels like they’ve been given a longer leash, and the opportunity to fully embrace what makes them unique among Swatch Group brands. Rado is, at their core, about materials, and they lead with design. Sure, the Captain Cook is a staple, and there are other watches in the Rado catalog that have a hint of the generic, but when I think about the brand, the watches that come to mind feature colorful ceramic and interesting shapes. The Anatom has been a favorite of mine since Rado reissued it a few years ago. It’s an 80s cult favorite, and the modern reinterpretation holds up remarkably well and offers a unique spin on the integrated bracelet sports watch trend. Rado has just announced a trio of new Anatoms in bright colors that should appeal to enthusiasts who might be after something colorful and a bit whims...
Monochrome
MeisterSinger is famous for its portfolio of single-handed watches, and the latest 24H Enamel Edition is no exception, but a white enamel dial, single revolution every 24 hours and the ability to moonlight as a compass helps it really stand out. The philosophy of the brand is to slow down a bit and appreciate time […]
SJX Watches
As the Hong Kong auctions have wrapped, we move to the final sales of the spring season in New York City. Phillips will offer a healthy mix of new and old, common and rare, across 144 lots. The sale includes many of the expected top-of-the-line offerings, with the headline lot a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold, and staples like a pair of ref. 5004s. But there are plenty of interesting watches to be down catalog too, including some fresh faces and value buys. Highlights include the best of English watchmaking made by Charles Frodsham a century apart, the auction debut of American independent Keaton Myrick, an unusual F.P. Journe Résonance, along with a Cartier pocket watch made by complications specialist THA. We round up these and a few more from The New York Watch Auction: XII, which takes place from June 7-8, 2025. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. Lot 11 – A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “2022 Best of Show, Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este” Since 2012, A. Lange & Söhne has been a sponsor of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, a classic car shown that takes place in spring on the picturesque shores of Lake Como. Each year, the owner of the event’s best car is presented with a unique Lange watch. While past winners have received a fairly conventional Lange 1 Time Zone, the brand upgraded the prize in recent years to a striking 1815 Chronograph. In 2022, the winner was Andrew Pisker with a Bugatti 57 S from 1937. He received th...
Monochrome
TAG Heuer keeps strengthening its links with motorsport and the history of racing… Among other initiatives, LVMH and TAG Heuer just signed a major deal with Formula 1, and the brand has just become the first title partner of the Monaco Grand Prix, which is now the Formula 1 TAG Heuer Grand Prix de Monaco. […]
Fratello
This year is a special one for TAG Heuer. After more than two decades, 2025 marks the brand’s return as the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1. Additionally, for the first time in history, the Grand Prix de Monaco will have a title sponsor. TAG Heuer will present the race and has created a new limited-edition […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction encompasses excellent complications at a range of price points. Highlights at the top end include the controversial Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a massive Jaeger-LeCoultre exotic tourbillon, a skeletonized Credor chronograph, and a special-order Patek Philippe that was presumably a gift from parent to son. Also on the block are fine pocket watches for the Chinese market on the first day of the sale, while the second and third sale days include notable examples of independent watchmaking. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX takes place from May 23-25, 2025. The full catalogue, and more, is available on Phillips.com. Lot 839 – A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In 2004, A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Double Split, a chronograph with both split-seconds and split-minutes–a feat previously only accomplished in pocket watches. Never one to stand still, Lange added split-hours into the mix with the Triple Split in 2018. The case is the brand’s typical fare, with distinctive stepped-out lugs, and continues its tradition of placing the split-button in the case band, rather than in the crown, as is the convention for wristwatches. This rose gold variation, of which only 100 were made, is matched with a handsome blue and silver dial. To create the Double Split, Lange built on the landmark L951 movement of the Datograph, adding a pair of rattrapante mechanisms, one for seconds and the other, minutes. From there, Lange added an hour...
Monochrome
More than 80 years after its initial release, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s novel Le Petit Prince or The Little Prince remains as popular as ever. As one of the most active brands in the field of pilot’s watches, and knowing Saint-Exupéry’s career as an aviator, IWC has long partnered with The Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Youth Foundation […]
Worn & Wound
Never one to shy away from their heritage as a British watchmaker, Fears has cooked up yet another savvy partnership that highlights their ability to innovate while holding down a cohesive aesthetic. This time, however, the collaboration isn’t with another watchmaker or boutique. Rather, it comes to us in the form of a watch built for “A Great British Odyssey” in which ultra endurance athlete Angus Collins will attempt to become the first person to complete an unsupported, solo row around mainland Great Britain. Fears has signed on as Collins’ official timekeeping partner, and has designed and produced a purpose-built timepiece for the task-a special version of their Brunswick 40mm, the EXPERIMENTAL 01. A savvy British watch fan may pause here and say, “hang on-since when does Fears do tool watches?” The EXPERIMENTAL 01 is the brand’s first foray into the ultra-utility category of timekeeping since the 1970s, and though it’s based on the structure of the Brunswick 40 (originally launched in October 2022), it also features eight highlighted improvements that make it purpose built for Collins’ task: a fixed bar attachment (laser-welded onto the lugs), a satinised case finish, 300 meters of water resistance, a glare resistant dial, Grade X2 Super-LumiNova on the hands and appliques, ultra-contrast hands, an MN Elasticated strap, and rigorous in-house precision time testing. Style-wise, the EXPERIMENTAL 01 draws heavily from its source material, the B...
Teddy Baldassarre
While the El Primero movement architecture may serve as the face of the Zenith brand, it is the Defy collection that remains its soul. The Defy represents an historically significant ethos for Zenith, a creative foundation that is just as important to the Swiss brand’s past as it is to its future. Originally meant to be a showcase of innovation and ideas, the Defy collection serves dual purposes: to preserve and celebrate innovations of the past in the “Revival” subfamily, and to continue innovating for the future in the series’ other branches. In 2022, the brand took a big step toward the future of the collection with the release of the Zenith Defy Skyline, a watch that simultaneously looked to build on successful elements of the past and also to capitalize on the integrated-bracelet sport watch trend that had taken hold of the industry. The Zenith Defy collection has roots in the 1960s and ‘70s, when many of the brand’s most iconic and exciting references were released (you can read a more in-depth history here). Many of these have been reborn in the form of modern Revival references, allowing a new generation of enthusiasts to discover them again, or for the first time. These designs weren’t afraid to take risks, from the shape of the case, to the bracelet integration, right into the dial colors and textures. The Defy name quickly came to signify a huge amount of character, and that’s on full display within the brand’s current stable. In finding a mo...
Monochrome
Czapek embraces the trend for more compact, unisex watch sizes and has clearly understood that the days when diamonds and gemstones were considered exclusively feminine adornments are well behind us. Released in 2024, Czapek’s Promenade collection is, in CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel’s words, “a canvas for creative expression” with beautiful dials that riff on the […]
Fratello
Today, we’ll briefly examine two new Certina DS-1 Big Date Collection variants. While we’ve typically covered some of Certina’s sportier watches here on Fratello, it’s important to remember that models like the DS-1 form the foundation for a brand. Watch nerds aside, pieces like this sell in large numbers. The DS-1 Big Date was introduced […] Visit Hot Take: Two New Certina DS-1 Big Date Watches With Matte Cases to read the full article.
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