Hodinkee
Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Orange Sapphire
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Time+Tide
Watching this miracle restoration of a burnt-out Omega is the most satisfying thing you’ll do all day
From rags to riches or hero to zero, the redemption narrative is one of the most powerful storytelling arcs there is. And it turns out to be just as effective when applied to inanimate objects, too. How else to explain the dizzying success of tool-restoration videos on YouTube in which the rusted up carcass of an … ContinuedThe post Watching this miracle restoration of a burnt-out Omega is the most satisfying thing you’ll do all day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Thin-Wristed Man Scammed by “Miracle Pills” Promising Size Enhancement
Read all about the internet's latest cautionary tale here! "Results may vary..."
SJX Watches
Highlights: Watches Owned by Eric Clapton and Hiroshi Fujiwara at Sotheby’s
Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is a major event – 266 lots is sizeable – but boasts a surprising lineup of historically significant watches in a variety of genres, from establishment brands to independent watchmaking (including a dozen F.P. Journe), and even museum-quality, enamelled automata. Now we turn to an unusual group of watches from the collections of two well-known watch collectors: musician Eric Clapton and Japanese streetwear guru Hiroshi Fujiwara (who last year designed a watch for TAG Heuer). The all important name on the certificate The ex-Clapton watches have been consigned by the current owners, who number just two. The first consigned all the Rolex sports watches, which he bought direct from Mr Clapton. And the second is a prominent collector from the Southern Hemisphere who consigned the trio of custom-dial Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned by Mr Clapton, a set of watches the owner accumulated primarily at auction. On the other hand, the watches from Mr Fujiwara’s collection come from the man himself. Mr Fujiwara consigned three watches, including a matched pair of ref. 5970 with “Tiffany” dials. We round up eight highlights from these celebrity-owned offerings. The full catalogue and sale registration are available on Sothebys.com. The ex-Clapton Often spotted wearing notable watches, modern and vintage, Eric Clapton has long been known to be a watch aficionado (and also an accomplished collector of Ferrari). Mr Clapton has ...
Revolution
Color, Material & Finish: How the G-SHOCK Became a Cultural Icon
The father of the Casio G-SHOCK, Kikuo Ibe shares with Revolution how the watch he had designed in 1983 to be an indestructible tool, rose to become a global cultural phenomenon by appealing to watch lovers from all walks of life, using three principals: color, material and finish.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver 42mm
The manufacture's entry level tool watch now comes in a smaller size.
Hodinkee
Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller
Everything you ever wanted to know about the most advanced Rolex tool watch in the world.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Understanding Nautilus Madness (With Some Help From Thierry Stern, Himself)
Green dials, steel bracelets, and the weird confluence of legacy and hype.
Time+Tide
My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love…
My Vacheron Constantin is actually a watch I inherited rather than bought. When my grandfather passed, nobody in my family was aware the watch existed. My father found it amongst a few other watches in his bedside drawer (including his daily Tag Heuer 1500, which I now own as well). When I got the text … ContinuedThe post My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hasselblad 503Cw with CFV II 50C: a new digital back with a 25 year old camera
We used the latest Hasselblad CFV II 50C digital back with a vintage 503CX, a camera which was made a quarter century ago. How does it work? We tell all.
Time+Tide
Goldsmith & Complications celebrates boutique opening with horological sculpture collab with the Chicago Cubs
As we have seen with the success of our Don’t Feed the Hype series, there is a strong hunger for more unique and different horological creations. The usual suspects have had their moment, with constant impressions to the mass marketplace. Don’t get me wrong, these big name brands continue to deliver quality products. But it … ContinuedThe post Goldsmith & Complications celebrates boutique opening with horological sculpture collab with the Chicago Cubs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Exquisite Pocket Watches in Singapore
A vintage watch dealer based in Singapore, 2ToneVintage is staging an exhibition that goes down a road less travelled in modern watch collecting – vintage pocket watches instead of the usual fare of wristwatches. The exhibition is open to the public from now till September 30, 2021, but registration is required due to venue capacity limits. Titled The Beginning, the show is made up of several dozen impressive specimens that represent the diversity of pocket watches, ranging from an Ilbery enamel for the Chinese market to a one-off Audemars Piguet grand complication to a Patek Philippe world time with a cloisonné dial. A timeline on the walls of the exhibition charts the development of watchmaking Most of the watches on show belong to Ali Nael, an oil trader who switched careers to found 2ToneVintage. Consequently, a good portion of the exhibition reflects his taste in timepieces – many of the timepieces are mid 20th century watches with elegant two-tone dials in champagne or pink gold. Examples from the early- to mid-20th century dominate the exhibition, with Patek Philippe being the most numerous. The watches largely fall into two categories: simple, time-only watches with delicate details or enamelling, and the highly complicated. Time-only The time-only examples include the Patek Philippe ref. 650 “Flying Saucer” – named after its wide, flat bezel – from 1937 that has a handsome. two-tone contrasting dial. And standing out against the classical style of ...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Wyvern GMT Chronometer offers a stylish take on the most useful watch complication
I love a good GMT. Who doesn’t? As a guy who works for an Australian watch website, while being based in New York City, there really is no better complication for me. That function has become so important in my daily life that I now analyze and evaluate every single GMT that gets released. All … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Wyvern GMT Chronometer offers a stylish take on the most useful watch complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: IWC’s true blue special edition supports the Laureus Foundation
In a world where the daily struggles of life may seem too much to bear, sports can routinely provide a much needed escape. This escape carries with it even more importance for youth, as it provides a safe space that can protect them from an environment where violence, discrimination and poverty pervades. With this in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: IWC’s true blue special edition supports the Laureus Foundation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Study shows that a love of luxury watches is proof of superior virility
EDITOR’S PICK: A recent story in the Calgary Herald suggests that men’s testosterone levels can predict certain forms of business success. Researchers from the University of Bristol note that “among male executives, circulating testosterone has been linked with a number of subordinates and among male financial traders, with daily profits.” So we thought it was … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Study shows that a love of luxury watches is proof of superior virility appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![Business News: Watchbox Takes Majority Stake in De Bethune [Updated]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/de-bethune-DB28XP-Starry-Sky-8.jpg)
SJX Watches
Business News: Watchbox Takes Majority Stake in De Bethune [Updated]
Watchbox, one of the world’s largest retailers of pre-owned watches, has just announced that it’s taken a majority stake in De Bethune, an independent watchmaker that’s recently enjoying a revival in its fortunes. The deal closed on August 31, according to Patrik Hoffmann, the former chief executive of Ulysse Nardin who’s now the head of Watchbox Switzerland. According to Mr Hoffmann, De Bethune now has just four shareholders, down from a dozen or so previously, with Watchbox holding the largest stake. While Watchbox now has board representation, its investment is largely passive says Mr Hoffmann. Both of De Bethune’s key men will remain in their equity stakes as well as management roles: Pierre Jacques as chief executive and cofounder Denis Flageollet as its technical and watchmaking head. And Mr Hoffmann adds will be no change in terms of De Bethune’s products. “Denis sees the brand DNA so clearly,” continues Mr Hoffmann, “So it would be a big mistake to change that… [since] few brands have the same clearly-defined DNA.” The road from 2002 As the saying goes, history doesn’t repeat itself, but it rhymes. De Bethune was originally cofounded in 2002 by a vintage watch dealer active in the late 20th century, Davide Zanetta, a truly original character who was legendary in his time. Mr Zanetta sold his majority share of the brand in 2017 after many years of losses. One of the investors who bought into the brand in 2017 was Steven Rostovsky, a pre-own...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Kids now struggle with analogue watches, could this be the answer?
A few years back I was very disheartened by the news that some British schools were beginning to replace analogue clocks with digital ones. The Times Educational Supplement reported that the reason behind this was that some pupils were now struggling to read traditional clocks and needed a digital clock to be able to tell … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Kids now struggle with analogue watches, could this be the answer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Go faux it or faux pas? @timepeacer customizes his Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue
Vintage watches and retro aesthetics have been dominant forces in the watch marketplace. A well and evenly patinated watch is an extremely valuable commodity, and these sorts of references can fetch incredible hammer prices at auction or among the many vendors who deal in vintage watches. But considering the high price tags for these properly … ContinuedThe post Go faux it or faux pas? @timepeacer customizes his Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Instrumentum is a titanium tough and future-proof debut
The Arken Instrumentum ref. 1020 might be exactly what you’re after if you are feeling the need for something rugged and fiercely contemporary. With the strong looks of a resilient tool watch, the 300m depth rating of this debut tough guy means it’ll take a beating and live to tell the tale on your post-pandemic … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Instrumentum is a titanium tough and future-proof debut appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
G-Shock mania at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics as top athletes vote with their wrists
We’ve seen quite a collection of watches captured on the wrists of various athletes at the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, everything from Rolex, F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and more. But I suspect if I were to poll the larger watch community, and ask which watch in your collection would you wear if you were competing, … ContinuedThe post G-Shock mania at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics as top athletes vote with their wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Dragon Gate Trilogy
According to Chinese legend, a carp that could jump the falls at the Dragon Gate of the Yellow River would transform into a dragon. The tale inspired the latest from Kees Engelbarts, a Dutchman who’s one of the most prominent engravers in Swiss watchmaking. The Dragon Gate Trilogy is a three-piece set of watches, each featuring a unique, hand-engraved and enamelled decoration that charts the carp’s transformation from fish to dragon. They are presented in an equally lavish box that’s hand made by a French cabinet maker and decorated by an award-winning lacquer artisan. Initial thoughts Over his two decades in watchmaking, Mr Engelbarts has created wristwatches of surprisingly diverse variety. Last year’s skeleton tourbillon was airy and organic, while the Dragon Gate Trilogy is decidedly more decorative. The trio is certainly not for everyone, though I do like the middle of the three watches, which depicts the carp in the midst of its transformation. The dial is striking and dramatic. The transformation dial But while the style is subjective, the quality of Mr Engelbart’s work is objectively excellent – unsurprising given that he’s long been a go-to engraver for a number of independent watchmakers, including veteran Svend Andersen. Mr Engelbart’s creations are truly high-quality artisanal work. The engraving is finely detailed and three dimensional, while being enhanced by Mr Engelbart’s clever use of exotic materials. The carp dial, for instance, feature...
Quill & Pad
Gincredible! How And Why Gin Went From Murderous Swill To 007-Level Cool – Reprise
In eighteenth-century England, a typical sign outside a gin shop read, “Drunk for a penny. Dead drunk for twopence. Clean straw for nothing.” But by the twentieth century Sir Winston Churchill reported that, “The gin and tonic has saved more Englishmen’s lives, and minds, than all the doctors in the Empire.” Ken Gargett fills his glass and takes a look at the evolution of gin. Cheers!
Time+Tide
Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal
The pandemic has really taken a toll on businesses around the world, with many consumers locked down and unable to visit storefronts in person. In terms of watches, this has proved a real shame as it is always fun to pop into your local boutique and go hands-on with some novelties in the metal. Fortunately, … ContinuedThe post Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tutima Introduces the M2 Seven Seas S
Historically a supplier of timepieces to the German military and police, Tutima now offers a broad line of “tool” watches. The latest from the Glashütte-based brand is the M2 Seven Seas S, the first version of its dive watch with a steel case (prior models are all titanium). Initial thoughts Tutima’s M2 line of sports watches are all big and solid, with chunky but streamlined cases modelled on the ref. 798 chronograph the brand once supplied to the German military. While simple, they are effective tool watches. The Seven Seas S sticks to the same formula, except in steel. That means it’s heavier, which might not be for everyone given the size. But the steel has the upside of a brushed finished with some polished accents, giving the case and bracelet a more varied look than the uniform sandblasted finish of the titanium model. But the best thing about the Seven Seas S is the version with a yellow dégradé dial, which darkens to a green-black at its edges. It’s an unusual and striking finish that sets the Seven Seas S apart from most of the competition. The only drawback with the new Seven Seas is the ETA 2824 inside. It’s robust and easy to service, but has a short power reserve of just 38 hours, which means it’ll probably stop if off the wrist for more than a day. Power reserves of 50 to 70 hours are now the industry norm, even at the entry level, so this disadvantages the Seven Seas. The Seven Seas S is relatively affordable and fairly competitively price...
SJX Watches
Harry Winston Unveils the Project Z15
Launched in 2004, the Project Z is Harry Winston’s flagship series within its Ocean line of sports watches, defined by the aluminium-zirconium alloy used for the cases known as Zalium. Traditionally dominated by chronographs and dual time zones, as is typical for a sports watch, the Project Z collection now is now joined by one of the most unusual models to date, the Project Z15. The new model boasts a gently upgraded design and novel mechanics, especially for a sports watch – a regulator-style time display with retrograde seconds, set against a skeletonised dial inspired by New York City’s Art Deco architecture. Initial thoghts Like its elder siblings, the Project Z15 is masculine in style but muted in colour, all about symmetry and clean, geometric lines, which results in a techno-industrial look that’ll appeal to someone who wants an interesting but understated sports watch. The new Z15 is a first for the brand in having a regulator-style display, which means the hours, minutes, and seconds hand indicated on separate axes arranged in a vertical line. The layout is not only vertically symmetrical, it improves readability, as much as possible for an open-worked, regulator dial. Most notable is the retrograde 30-second display, which means the seconds hand returns to zero twice a minute, creating near-constant action on the dial. Interestingly, the skeletonised bridges on the dial finished with a simple, linear graining, giving the face a look that brings to min...
Quill & Pad
Montblanc Meisterstück Spike Lee Special Edition: Highlighting A Love Of Writing
I’m not sure it’s possible to experience a Spike Lee film without being changed in some profound way. Lee loves writing with a pen, and Montblanc's new fountain pen in his honor is crafted in classic black resin with a sleek cap and decorated with Lee’s signature eyeglasses. Purple, the artist’s favorite color, also figures prominently.
Time+Tide
Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best?
Let’s get ready to rumble in this horological battle with Rolex as the weapon of choice. In one corner, wearing his customary skinny jeans is Wiz Khalifa. The rap superstar has always been open about enjoying blinged-out wristwear. “So many rocks up in my watch I can’t tell what the time is,” he happily admitted … ContinuedThe post Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Sotheby’s ‘Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers’ Online Auction
Sotheby’s latest online sale is in a quirky combination of luxury watches and high-end sneakers – some of which cost more than the watches. Fortunately the large majority of the 164 lots are horological, with a selection of watches that’s diverse and interesting, led by a couple of heavyweight top lots. The heavyweights are quite literal, both complicated watches in platinum from brands widely regarded as benchmarks in contemporary watchmaking: an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with a platinum case and bracelet, along with the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Luminous “Phantom”. The sale also includes more esoteric watches that might be overlooked, including as a retailer-edition Patek Philippe Calatrava with ruby markers, and a Grand Seiko “First” remake in platinum. The Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers auction is live online from now until June 8, 2021. The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available here. Lot 8201 – F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Platinum Introduced in 2004, the F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain was the successor to the original Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. Like the original, the Tourbillon Souverain combined both a tourbillon regulator and constant force mechanism in a quest for accuracy. Its most obvious distinction against its predecessor was the small seconds at six linked to the remontoir mechanism. The Tourbillon Souverain itself was replaced in 2019 by something bigger and vertical, making it increasingly uncomm...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400
I do love a good 38-40mm vintage-infused diver’s watch and, while some have come and gone from my box, they always tickle my fancy. But I also enjoy a touch of bling in my tool watches. Nothing against monochrome sharpness and the pure white print on a matte black dial, but like a watch-addicted magpie, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Tudor Black Bay GMT One
Tudor’s entry into Only Watch 2021 is typical – a reinterpretation of one of its current models – but at the same time strikingly unusual. The Black Bay GMT One is a dual time zone with a heavily aged finish on the case and bracelet, along with an open back showing off a movement similar to that found in the recent Black Bay Ceramic. Initial thoughts Tudor’s watches are ordinarily excellent quality and tremendous value, though most are styled within certain aesthetic confines. The brand gets to do things differently at Only Watch, and the Black Bay GMT One is probably the most interesting to date. Most Tudor watches look shiny and new, and even those that acquire a patina remain pristine under the crystal. The GMT One is purposefully aged, even on the dial and movement, which gives it a lived-in look that’s appealing in a sports watch. Granted, the aged bracelet seems a bit much – I’d wear it on a strap – but given that there’ll only be one of these and it’ll sell for about US$350,000 that’s a moot point. Lastly, it’s notable that the GMT One is powered by a Master Chronometer movement, perhaps a reference to the strategic genius of the similar movement found in the Black Bay Ceramic. Slightly worn The GMT One has a case steel and bracelet that are identical to that found on the standard model, except for the surface treatment. Both are finished with a black coating that is then partially and randomly worn off via tumble polishing, creating an aged-...