22,264 articles · 2,196 videos found · page 26 of 816
Time+Tide
The notion of gendered watches is an outdated one, but not as far as Chanel's Monsieur is concerned.The post The Monsieur de Chanel evolves in a refreshingly unapologetic direction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
My original idea when I was asked to contribute to this series was to focus on my favorite watch acquisitions of the year, explain why they’re noteworthy, and describe my thought process behind purchasing or trading for each. While I was writing about my Universal Geneve Ref. 842116 Tank and Seiko 6139-6002 Pogue, I couldn’t help but notice how far my collection has come over the last year or so. Since the purchase of my first wristwatch in 2012, it’s always been my goal to cultivate watch boxes filled with both timeless classics and rare oddities. Looking at my collection as this year concludes, I’m proud to say I’ve never changed this philosophy. It was with this realization that my plans for this article began to transform into a conversation about watch collecting identity. While 2024 has been quite the successful year for my collection and I, it’s also the year that I went from being an affordable watch collector to being …an affordable watch collector. You see, the watch collecting hobby is filled with subjective terminology. Words and phrases like “rare,” “new old stock,” “like-new old stock,” “budget-friendly,” and of course “affordable” frequently see usage on online auction platforms, social media, forums, and advertisements. While these are often used as buzzwords for sellers wanting their post to be boosted in search algorithms or by collectors wanting to flaunt their new purchase, I’ve always been fascinated by how pliable...
Worn & Wound
If you don’t get what you’re looking at, don’t worry. You’re not alone - in fact, that’s sort of the point. A quick glance at the new L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is more likely to incite questions than offer answers, but the latest masterpiece from Parmigiani Fleurier, timed to release last week in time for founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, presents us with a watch unlike anything we’ve seen from the brand in recent years. The general architecture of the watch will be familiar to those conversant in Parmigiani’s chosen language - the straight squared-off lugs and pastel pallet are reminiscent of the Toric watches released earlier this year - but it won’t take long to realize that there’s something fairly significant missing from the celebratory watch: a dial. The Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is also the latest entry in a series of Minute Repeater wristwatches to deliberately de-emphasize the visible display of time we’re all so used to. Recent examples of this trick have come from H. Moser & Cie., whose Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black opted for a clean Vantablack dial with nothing but a visible tourbillon; and Biver, whose 2023 OnlyWatch entry replaced its visible dial with a beautiful scene rendered in stone marquetry. But just because we’ve seen versions of this before, doesn’t mean the impact is any lessened here. In fact, this implementation is among the best I’ve encountered, and more than holds its own, while a...
Fratello
During Watches and Wonders this year, the world learned about Angelus’s marvelous monopusher chronograph, the Instrument de Vitesse. Now, I must admit, I got a sneak peek of the watch last year. That was the first time I could handle it, and it exceeded my expectations. At the time, one could choose between ebony- and […] Visit Hands-On With The Angelus Instrument De Vitesse Indianapolis Blue to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I had the privilege of writing about the last Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Salm0n release for Worn & Wound in September. Serendipitously, Studio Underd0g was in Montreal the following week with the RedBar traveling road show. It was a real treat to see and handle their watches in person finally. They even had one of their Pizza watches and their Moser collaboration. The latter was quite exquisite, as was the new Salm0n, but part of me hoped that Studio Underdog wasn’t moving upscale, leaving behind what got them there in the first place: affordable, whimsical chronographs that make you smile when you look down at your wrist. When I learned that Seagull had announced a new minimum order quantity of 10,000 units for their ST-19 series movements, I became concerned about Studio Underd0g’s most popular model, the 01SERIES. This worry was heightened by the brouhaha that followed the collaboration with Moser and the decision to use Sellita-based movements in their 03SERIES. Fear not, as Studio Underd0g has successfully contracted Seagull to create an exclusive and enhanced version of their caliber called the ST-1901B. This reaffirms their commitment to providing mechanical chronographs priced under $1,000. For those unfamiliar with the history of the ST-19 column-wheel chronograph movement, its origins are Swiss. In 1961, Venus sold its machinery, tooling, and blueprints for the Venus 175 caliber to the Tianjin Watch Factory. They then upgraded the original 17-jewel movement to ...
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SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking has been important in the auction space for some time now, both in terms of repute and value. The recent Geneva auctions, for example, saw a new record set for the most expensive timepiece made by an independent – over US$8.32 million with fees for the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité prototype “15/93”. Now as the auction season moves to Hong Kong, we bring you some of the interesting examples of independent pieces watching up going on the block at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction on November 22-24. It’s a two-part event: first Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional sale of varied offerings. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 111 – Masahiro Kikuno Tourbillon 2012 Part of the TOKI sale are timepieces crafted by Japanese independent watchmakers. One such piece remarkable is this unique wristwatch with a tourbillon regulator from Masahiro Kikuno, a low profile but talented craftsman. An up-and-coming independent watchmaker, Masahiro Kikuno is one of the youngest members of the AHCI. The auction debut for Mr Kikuno, the present wristwatch was firstly presented at Baselworld 2011, along with a similar one encased in silver. The watch is unmistakably hand made and original in many respects, ranging from the fluid 18k gold case to the patterned dial to the movement architecture. Although executed in the traditional way, the movement has an unusual construction, ...
Time+Tide
Czapek makes its classical chronograph more sporty with a new dial texture and a tachymeter scale.The post The Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads refreshes Czapek’s classically modern high-beat chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Elegant and distinctly 1970s in style, the Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Paris is modelled on an oversized quartz wristwatch once owned by Andy Warhol. Originally known as the Black Tie Vintage Inspiration, the model has now been renamed thanks to Piaget’s recently inked partnership with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, making it the first timepiece bearing the name of the American artist. Part of Piaget’s catalogue for a decade, the new Andy Warhol wristwatch gains a reworked bezel decorated with Clou de Paris, replacing the stepped bezel on the preceding version. The latest iteration sports a blue meteorite dial, but the model can be customised via Piaget’s “Made to Order” programme that includes a variety of mineral stone dials as well as dial and case options. The original version with a stepped bezel, here with a malachite dial Initial thoughts Andy Warhol was a watch collector who own over 300 timepieces – all of which were sold at Sotheby’s after his death – including seven by Piaget. One of them as a chunky yellow gold watch with powered by the Beta 21, a pioneering Swiss quartz movement. Piaget is making the most of this association by renaming the Black Tie model and expanding the options offered to clients. Piaget does several things well, including ingenious, record-setting ultra-thin movements, but it really excels at elegant, retro dress watches like the Andy Warhol. While the original Black Tie model was essentially a remake of th...
Monochrome
It isn’t every day that Patek Philippe introduces an entirely new collection, especially a new range of elegant sports watches. But here it is, and it is called the Patek Philippe Cubitus. Three years after discontinuing the celebrated stainless steel blue Nautilus 5711 – or two years, if we include the farewell Olive Green and Tiffany […]
Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso breaks down and highlights some of his favorite timepieces from Geneva Watch Days 2024, including the Longines Legend Diver, De Bethune DBxs Aérolite, Oris Aquis Chronograph, Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite, and more!
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Quill & Pad
There is one wine producer that has taken on almost mythical status in recent years: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. And one of its wines, Romanée-Conti, stands out above all others. Many wine lovers, perhaps most, consider it to be the very best wine in the world. Ken Gargett is one of them.
Monochrome
It wasn’t so long ago when LVMH, the French luxury powerhouse, announced shifts in top management positions. In January 2024, the group announced the creation of a new entity, LVMH Watches, as well as its CEO, Frédéric Arnault, the son of the Group’s owner Bernard Arnault and ex-CEO of TAG Heuer. As a consequence, Julien […]
Quill & Pad
Angelus offers the Instrument de Vitesse in classic black or ivory dials, each limited to a ridiculously low 25 pieces. Martin Green thinks that the black dial with copper-colored numerals and railroad track with red details looks fabulous.
SJX Watches
Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a patent for the tourbillon on June 16, 1801. On the birthday of his celebrated invention, Breguet launches the facelifted, rose gold iteration of the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345. The brand’s most formidable tourbillon, the Double Tourbillon is a remarkable timepiece that blends forward-thinking mechanics with traditional craftsmanship, all presented in a striking, oversized case. Initial thoughts While the newest iteration of the Double Tourbillon collection is not actually new (the original version was launched four years ago), the complication never ceases to amaze. The watch is an impressive demonstration of artisanal skill, with open worked movement revealing a plethora of decorated surfaces, each showcasing a different finishing technique. The three-dimensional calibre is built upon an 18k rose gold main plate that’s been engine turned with a new wave guilloche developed by Breguet. And the reverse of the watch reveals the bridges of the movement that are entirely hand engraved with a detailed scene of 19th century Paris. Beyond the artisanal finishes, the movement is a highly technical affair. It features no dial, with the movement forming the face. Not only does it include two tourbillon regulators, each with its own going train and barrel, but half of the movement itself is geared to rotate once every 12 hours. The watch is large for the classic Breguet style, but the chunky case is i...
WatchAdvice
We spend a week with the new Santos De Cartier Large brown dial released at this year’s Watches & Wonders and see how this timeless piece wears in the hustle and bustle of daily life. What We Love The timeless design Ingenious quick change and quick link system The slim profile on the wrist What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet The brown dial may not be to everyone’s tastes A see-through caseback would be a great addition Overall Score: 8.75/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 As far as watch releases go, there are few brands that garner global attention come the first day at Watches & Wonders. One of these is Cartier. The second biggest watch brand by sales in the world and a brand synonymous with luxury, Cartier always manages to surprise with both their “everyday” pieces, as well as their Cartier Privé, and High Jewelry collection from their Maison Mètiers d’Arts. So this year I was excited to see first hand what the Maison would bring out, and hopefully, get my hands on these as I’ve not reviewed a piece from Cartier before. One of these pieces was the Santos De Cartier Large with a 70’s vibe brown gradient dial, and being something very different to what I’m used to wearing, was keen to put it on the wrist Related Reading: Cartier Drops Their New Santos Collection Initial Thoughts I always write down my initial thoughts when first handling a new watch. It’s a great way to effectively “Judg...
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Time+Tide
This was a big week for watch releases, with high-profile motorsports-inspired watches and yet more MoonSwatch variants.The post New releases from Longines, De Bethune, Louis Vuitton and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Recently revived by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Gérald Genta has just taken the covers off the Gentissima Oursin. Comprising three watches inspired by a 1994 model, the Oursin is a gently reworked take on the original, retaining the round, pebble-like case covered in studs and subtly facetted sapphire crystal. Though compact like the original, the modern-day Oursin is instead cased in titanium but fitted with solid-gold studs. Initial thoughts In contrast to last year’s Mickey Mouse minute repeater, the Oursin is simple in terms of the movement, but it stands out for the complexity of the case construction as well as the striking design that is quintessential Genta. Though the revived Oursin faithfully recreates the original, subtle improvements have been made to the design, most notably with the reworked lugs tucked under the case, giving it a seamless outline. Another upgrade is the Zenith Elite movement within that replaces the ETA of the original. The new Oursin, however, remains similar in size to the original at 36.5 mm. I personally would have wanted something a little bigger, because the compact dimensions make the watch feel more decorative and ornate. The Oursin starts at CHF22,000 in titanium with white gold studs, with the version featuring diamonds on the studs priced at CHF32,000. While not quite a value proposition, the prices are fair considering the construction as well as brand. Quintessential Genta French for “[sea] urchin”, o...
Worn & Wound
Jacques Bianchi Marseille has teamed up with Fratello Watches to create a new iteration of their already popular JB200 PoulPro. The new variant released today is now dubbed the JB200 PoulPro “Night Diver”, due to its new nocturnal layout consisting of a black PVD case and a fully lumed dial, both features being a first for Jacques Bianchi. Fratello is known for creating high quality and entertaining watch enthusiast content, and more specifically their infatuation with the Speedmaster that started with their founders creation of the #speedytuesday hashtag. Fratello has even collaborated with Omega due to the hashtag’s marketing success, and they’ve since branched out to create watch collaborations with many other watch brands just like this new Jacques Bianchi release. The JB200 diver was only just reissued in 2021, and it garnered some outstanding success due to demand from vintage watch lovers who were quite fond of the original from the early 1980s. The new “Night Diver” variant seen here is similar in many ways to the reissue, maintaining the 42mm case and 13.3mm thickness, as well as a lug to lug of 47mm. The JB200 is relatively well proportioned on the wrist, although it does have a slightly heftier appearance when comparing to the benchmark Rolex Submariner 124060 with a 12mm thickness. Much of the fit disadvantage is offset by the rest of the specs, especially the lug to lug measurement which can at times be more important than the actual case size....
Time+Tide
Stealthy, retro-futuristic, unashamedly masculine and powered by a tasteful in-house movement, this Chanel hits different.The post The Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition is the most masculine watch Chanel has ever produced appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac in 1997, and helmed by twins Massimo and Leonard Dreifuss since 2021, has carved out a niche as one of the more playful and eccentric modern independent watch brands. Their watches are known for their use of color and materials, even extending to the plethora of strap and bracelet options available. There are a total of 113 options on their website, to say you are spoiled for choice would be an understatement. New for 2024 is a mountain of a watch, inspired by a mountain of a man. When everyone else is making them smaller, MDM is making them big. The Maurice de Mauriac Chrono Modern Big Date Deep Blue is a large name for well… a large watch. Since we are on the subject, might as well get the measurements out of the way, as there are 2 available sizes. Large and extra-large. The former is 45mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug width of 53mm, while the latter is 48mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug width of 56mm. The cases seen here with a blue dial are titanium (the watch is also offered in bronze and steel). Inspired by 6’4”, 320 pound Swiss wrestler Samir Leuppi, these watches are meant for big wrists like his and Maurice de Mauriac does not dispute it. These are definitely not for the timid of wrist. One of the wonderful benefits of a larger watch is uncanny legibility, exemplified here with big bold Arabic numerals at the outer minute track and a big date complication at 12:00. The other distinguishing feature of this watch is the ornate knurled b...
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Quill & Pad
None of these three champagnes are considered as prestige releases – for Taittinger, that would be their brilliant Comtes de Champagne – and consequently they are priced well below, each coming in at around one-third of the price of Comtes. You can’t go wrong. They are all beautiful champagnes and will reward drinking now or time in the cellar.
Monochrome
We’ve said it on numerous occasions, but watchmaking isn’t limited to Switzerland or even Europe. There is potential all around the globe, sometimes in the most unexpected places. Japan, for that matter, is one of the most fascinating spots for watches, including independent, creative horology. Names such as Minase, Hajime Asaoka (and Kurono) or Kikuchi […]
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this first installment, Andrew provides an overview of the major players and accomplishments from the early days of British watch and clock making. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster. Many people believe that the origin of modern-day watchmaking came from the Swiss, but it all started in England back in the early 17th century. The 1620s saw a desire by clock and watch makers to establish a dedicated company as a representative body, but this was met with opposition from the other livery companies – guilds or associations in the City of London to regulate and protect the interest of their members – in particular the Blacksmiths. The Worshipful Company of Clockmakers eventually received its Royal Charter on 22nd August 1631. The Charter created a corporate body for all the Clock and Watch makers in the City of London and within a radius of ten miles around, with regulatory powers covering England and Wales. It specified that the new Fellowship should be governed by a Master, three Wardens and ten or more Assistants who would form a Court. The first Master was David Ramsay, former Chief Clockmaker to King James I. Left to right: engraved dial plate with indications for time of day, annual calendar, sign of the zodiac, day of the...
SJX Watches
One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...
Fratello
Next year will mark 30 years since Cartier released the Must de Cartier Tank Art Deco. Maybe I should feel embarrassed that I don’t recall ever seeing it before. But the moment I spotted it last week, I instantly fell in love. If it weren’t quartz and in the ballpark of €10,000, it would be […] Visit #TBT Visual Glory With The Must De Cartier Tank Art Deco Ref. 1616 to read the full article.
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