1,479 articles · 54 videos found · page 26 of 52
Monochrome
For its latest collaboration watch, NYC-based design studio Massena LAB is teaming up with venerable, alarm-specialist watchmaker Vulcain, bringing its own take on an emblematic model, the Cricket Nautical. This watch, which relied on the brand’s signature chiming complication, was one of the first of its kind, merging diving credentials with the alarm feature that […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Germany’s Nomos Glashütte has built its avid following on an adherence to minimalist, Bauhaus-style simplicity in its watch designs, and it has the Red Dot awards to prove it. In all of its similar but subtly distinct product families — particularly the Tangente, the brand’s acknowledged flagship — Nomos has approached complications with great care, mostly focusing on the understated and utilitarian. Sometimes, however, even the most restrained watchmaker wants to have some fun, to make a watch with an added function that isn’t really necessary or even practical but adds an indisputable cool factor. Such is the case with the Tangente 2Date, unveiled earlier this year, which, as its cheeky name implies, is the first Nomos watch that displays the date in two different ways. And even though that sounds like an idea from the Department of Redundancy Department, don’t knock it until you’re tried it — as I had the opportunity to do recently, with Nomos sending me a review model of the Tangente 2Date with a sunray-brushed blue dial. Case: Like all Nomos watches, particularly those in the flagship Tangente collection, the 2Date is recognizably Bauhaus in its aesthetic. The 37.5mm case is practically bezel-free, with just the narrowest hint of one framing the wide dial opening. At just 6.75mm high (6.65 on the version without a sapphire caseback), the case weighs lightly on the wrist and slips easily under a shirt cuff. The lugs are thin and angular, from the front...
SJX Watches
High-end chronograph movements of today tend to have in common a vertical clutch and column wheel. Such “performance” chronographs are typically also automatic, and practically every high-end watchmaker, from Audemars Piguet to Vacheron Constantin, has its own take on the modern “performance” chronograph. The chronograph movement as we know it today is actually a fairly recent invention. Despite being common in today’s chronograph constructions, the vertical coupling, or at least its concept, is decades-old. The Pierce cal. 130/134 launched in the 1930s is regarded as the first commercially available wristwatch with a vertical clutch. There are examples of even older stopwatches that relied on crude forms of the vertical clutch, but most were either prototypes or small-batch production. But the large-scale use of the vertical clutch only started in the late 1960s, when Seiko debuted the cal. 6139. Launched in 1969, the Seiko cal. 6139 was a vertical clutch movement produced on an industrial scale. Not only was it among the first-ever automatic chronographs, but the cal. 6139 also was objectively the most advanced amongst them. Compared to the modular construction of the Breitling-Heuer Chronomatic Caliber 11 and the fairly classical architecture of the Zenith El Primero, the Seiko cal. 6139 was endowed with a vertical clutch and a novel construction all around. It was, however, an industrial, no-frills movement at heart. The one that started it all – the cal. ...
Monochrome
Some of the most spectacularly finished watches come from Lang & Heyne, a small high-end watchmaker from the outskirts of Dresden. Especially the Anton Manufaktur Edition, with its tourbillon that seems to float in thin air, is a feast for the eye. We visited Lang & Heyne to give you a view inside the manufacture.
Monochrome
David Candaux, an independent watchmaker and member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since 2019, is regarded as one of the most talented creators in contemporary horology. To understand and appreciate his work, it is important to remember his professional journey and the philosophy that infuses his timepieces with unique character, and the […]
Monochrome
Young collaborative project/brand SpaceOne continues its exploration of watchmaking through a parallel galaxy… Last year, the bold and modern SpaceOne Jumping Hour emerged from the visionary mind of Théo Auffret, a Parisian independent watchmaker crafting intricate timepieces like the Tourbillon Grand Sport and Guillaume Laidet, the man spearheading the revival of Nivada, Excelsior Park and Vulcain. […]
Monochrome
Jacques Bianchi is a French watchmaker based in Marseille. He’s been in the business for over five decades, working with the French military and names like Jacques Cousteau. A notable piece was the JB300 diver from the 1990s, produced in a total run of 1,000 for the French Army’s combat divers. The new JB300 isn’t […]
Fratello
Seiko is a brand that many consider the gateway drug to entry-level mechanical watches. It is also a rare example of a watchmaker that produces anything from affordable timepieces to expensive and high-end watches. The Seiko “Turtle” exemplifies the brand’s ability to punch hard in the affordable segment. The Seiko SRPE93 (formerly known as the […] Visit Does The Seiko Turtle Still Punch Above Its Weight? to read the full article.
Monochrome
A new collaboration between our Dutch fellows from Fratello and independent watchmaker Czapek has just landed. Following their first and successful collaboration, which was a green take on the brand’s luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Antarctique Passage de Drake, the Dutch magazine is back with its signature Viridian Green colour, but on […]
Monochrome
Once upon a time, antique timepiece restorer and master watchmaker Michel Parmigiani was encouraged by the Sandoz family to create a manufacture. Known as Parmigiani Fleurier, the fully independent manufacture produced exquisite high-end watches, over thirty in-house movements and fascinating table clocks equipped with automata. With the arrival of CEO Guido Terreni in 2021, the […]
SJX Watches
Founded by a Japanese transplant to Switzerland, Aigaki is making its debut with the impressive Direct-Impulse Tourbillon. Though relatively youthful, brand founder Takahiko Aigaki is a watchmaker of the old school who developed the watch and then makes almost all of it by hand. Produced almost entirely in Takahiko Aigaki’s own home-workshop with hand-operated tools, the Tourbillon is characterised by its hand-engraved silver dial and a finely-finished movement combining unique architecture with a proprietary escapement. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Aigaki on Instagram for several months, having become intrigued by the unusual in-line architecture of the movement, and its symmetrical direct-impulse escapement. Initially, only the movement components were shown, but even this sneak peak was enough to pique my interest. Now that the watch has been unveiled, I feel like it was worth the wait. The Tourbillon is a compact, 37 mm timepiece with a clean aesthetic and domed crystal that lends it something of a vintage feel. On its face, the appearance is simple, but the watch instantly conveys the sensation of a finely-crafted object, especially when you turn it over. But even on the front, the details of the dial give away the fact that it is hand-made. Interestingly, there is no ink or paint used on the dial. All of the dial markings and elements are hand-engraved using traditional tools; the brand name is engraved with a hand-operated pantograph. The Tourbillon is v...
SJX Watches
The latest from Ressence is a departure from the usual cosmetic variation. Created for its Tokyo retailer Shellman, the Type 8 Indigo features a dial inlaid with indigo-dyed Japanese silk thread that’s been tightly packed into shallow recesses on the dial surface to form a swirling motif. This watch is one of several editions conceived by Shellman that are cumulatively known as the Indigo project. Each is a collaboration with an independent watchmaker that sports a blue dial, in a nod to the traditional Japanese indigo dyeing technique. Initial thoughts The Type 8 was originally the entry-level model within the brand’s catalogue, fulfilling founder Benoît Mintiens’s wish to make his distinctive watches more accessible. At CHF25,000, the Type 8 Indigo cost almost double the basic Type 8. So it is no longer entry level, but the price is justified by the hand-made dial that takes two days to complete according to Ressence. Importantly, the silk-inlaid dial looks good and complements the brand’s aesthetic perfectly. While the Ressence is not typically known for traditional decoration crafts, the dial decoration adds a little more variety to the brand’s watches, which are typically minimalist and hyper modern. At the same time, this is also more interesting than Ressence’s recent limited editions, most of which have been simple dial variations. Indigo-dyed silk Being based on the standard Type 8, the Indigo edition retains the same titanium case that’s 42.9 mm in...
Monochrome
Two years after introducing the Type 8, its most minimalist time-only watch, Belgian independent watchmaker Ressence expands the concept with the launch of the new Type 9. Like all Ressence creations, the latest model incorporates the brand’s patented ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System) display module, with time indicated via revolving sub-dials – the so-called “beyond […]
Monochrome
About a year ago, Georges Kern, also known as the CEO of Breitling, made a resounding announcement for the watch community; the acquisition of historic brand Universal Genève and its planned return as a watchmaker in 2026. A brand known for its innovative designs and movements, benefitting from a certain aura in the collecting community, […]
Monochrome
Japanese watchmaker Orient is one of those rare brands that produce in-house models at very affordable prices, rivalling and often beating Japanese juggernauts Seiko and Citizen with value propositions. The best-selling Bambino series is clearly very popular, particularly the recent 38mm collection. The latest two pieces don’t break the mould, but do introduce fresh dial […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Seamaster Diver 300M has been a cornerstone of Omega's dive watch legacy since its introduction in 1993. This year, the Swiss watchmaker refreshes the beloved collection with a duo of vintage-inspired models, blending classic aesthetics with modern performance.
Teddy Baldassarre
Angelus is a watchmaker that many younger enthusiasts likely regard as a newcomer to the scene but actually brings to the table a rich heritage going all the way back to 1891 — as a maker of watches as well as some of the industry’s most legendary movements. Angelus calibers were used, for example, in the earliest Panerai Radiomir watches from the 1940s. Based in Le Locle, Switzerland, the firm was one of the first watchmakers to adopt the two-pusher chronograph design that had first been explored by Breitling. Its ChronoDato model, launched in 1942, and its successor in 1948, the ChronoDatoLuxe, remain among the most legendary grails for vintage chronograph collectors. When Angelus resurfaced in 2015 — now owned by the prolific Swiss movement-maker La Joux-Perret, which is part of Japan’s Citizen Watch Group — the timepieces it chose to re-establish itself in the 21st-Century marketplace proved perplexing to many longtime collectors and armchair brand historians. Watches like the somewhat bizarre-looking, sci-fi-influenced U10 Tourbillon and the huge, skeletonized U50 Diver Tourbillon seemed to indicate that the revived Angelus brand was jettisoning much of its vintage appeal to explore more avant-garde frontiers. Starting in 2022, however, with the much-praised release of the ChronoDate models, heavily inspired by the 1942 ChronoDato, Angelus has signaled a renewed interest in mining its mid-century archives, particularly in its chronograph sweet spot. The ...
Worn & Wound
Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, founded Brellum in 2017. Unlike many new brands, they did not pursue crowdfunding but adopted a more traditional approach. The first model released by Brellum was the Duobox, which was covered by Worn & Wound here. Since then, we have reported on several other releases by the brand. However, despite this coverage and similar attention from other outlets, Brellum does not appear to have the same visibility or market presence as many competitors. That is the impression I have, at least. Since 2017, they have quietly expanded into multiple product lines, exhibiting strong and distinctive brand coherence. They have successfully established their brand identity in such a way that their models are instantly recognizable as Brellum watches. In an industry as prolific, diverse, and prone to imitation as ours, achieving a high level of brand consistency is more challenging than one might expect, particularly if your designs are conservative. However, their watches do possess some flair, and all feature high-grade chronometer-certified movements. For 2024, Brellum is introducing a smaller version of their most popular model, the Duobox, along with a new chronograph movement in their collection. Introducing the Duobox 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. This watch is essentially a 39mm version featuring subdials at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. Many consider this arrangement more aesthetically pleasing than the standard ETA/VJ7750 dial layo...
Monochrome
Brellum was founded in 2016 by Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker who set up shop in Porrentruy, Switzerland. With a limited production of around 299 watches a year and an emphasis on chronometer-certified movements, Brellum’s policy of direct sales to avoid middlemen allows the brand to keep its prices in check. One of this independent […]
Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann (1826-1855) was one of the founding fathers of Glashütte’s proud watchmaking tradition. However, his death in 1855 marked the extinction of the brand that was acquired by watchmaker Christine Hutter in 2008. Having forged its own identity with 16 in-house calibres and a commitment to Schönstes deutsches Handwerk (the most beautiful German craftsmanship), […]
Deployant
DEPLOYANT GoS, a Sweedish watchmaker specialising in Damascus steel collaborates with fashion designer Martin Key to create this new watch.
Monochrome
With Patrik Sjögren, the Master Watchmaker at the helm and Conny Persson, the Bladesmith producing the intricate hand-forged Damascus steel, the Swedish watchmaking brand GoS continues to amaze. Infusing Scandinavian folklore, nature themes and traditional crafts into their creations, GoS watches are distinguished by their intricate patterns and story-telling details. The new GoS timepiece is […]
Monochrome
Chronoswiss, founded in 1983 in Munich by the late Gerd Lang, acquired renown for the celebrated watchmaker’s regulator models and distinctive design language. Now in the hands of Oliver Ebstein, with headquarters in Lucerne, the brand’s traditional regulators have been given a 21st-century visual punch and reinterpreted with vivid colours and textures. Pushing the envelope, […]
SJX Watches
The first wristwatch ever sold by François-Paul Journe is now the most expensive timepiece made by an independent watchmaker: the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” just sold for CHF7.32 million (equivalent to US$8.36 million), including fees, at Phillips in Geneva. Delivered in 1993 to an astute Parisian collector, the watch was the second wristwatch ever made by Mr Journe. He retained possession of the first wristwatch, which now resides in his museum. As far as François-Paul Journe is an important watchmaker, Tourbillon “15/93” is an important watch – a fact proven by the hefty price. Despite the headline number, the bidding for Tourbillon “15/93” was unexpectedly truncated. As soon as auctioneer Aurel Bacs opened the bidding at a mere CHF1 million, Paul Boutros shouted a CHF5 million bid, causing a stir in the room. Mr Boutros, the watch department chief for the Americas, was bidding on behalf of a client on the phone who is perhaps the world’s biggest F.P. Journe collector. The huge opening bid quickly eliminated all other bidders – there were a half dozen other phone bidders – save for one gentleman in the room who has good taste and an impressive collection of independent watchmaking. The gentleman in the room made two more bids but bowed out (though he did win another notable timepiece during the sale), leaving Mr Boutros’ client to walk away with the watch for CHF6 million hammer, which is CHF7.32 million with fees. Th...
Hodinkee
Second made and first sold, this Tourbillon Souverain is now the most expensive Journe and the most expensive wristwatch by an independent watchmaker.
Monochrome
Jiro Katayama, a car designer turned self-taught, independent watchmaker from Japan, is quickly gaining popularity with his brand, Otsuka Lotec. Despite the brand’s limited distribution – exclusively within Japan – enthusiasts worldwide are drawn to Katayama’s craftsmanship and industrial-meets-steampunk watch aesthetic. Travelling to Japan to secure one of his coveted timepieces, be it the retrograde […]
SJX Watches
A storied example of artisanal independent watchmaking, The Oval was the masterpiece by Derek Pratt (1938-2009), perhaps the greatest unknown watchmaker. Pratt began work on the Oval in 1982 as his magnum opus, the ultimate realisation of his aesthetic and technical vision. While his work for Urban Jürgensen is perhaps his best known, Pratt was an independent watchmaker with a diverse repertoire, including working with George Daniels on the co-axial escapement. Amongst his creations was a replica of John Harrison’s H4 marine chronometer. These projects, as well as the fact that the Oval was mostly hand made, meant the pocket watch took some two decades to complete. Although it’s a sizeable watch, the Oval is finely detailed, reflecting the high level of Pratt’s craft and the years he invested in creating the watch from scratch. Beyond its artisanal execution, the Oval also stands out for its technical achievement. Besides a detent escapement, the Oval also contains a horological first – a constant force mechanism integrated within the tourbillon – along with a thermometer, power reserve display, and moon phase on the dial. We took an in-depth look at the Oval in 2021, thanks to its current owner, Dr Helmut Crott. But now as the Oval heads to the auction block at Phillips, it’s worth one last look before it disappears into a collection. A two-decade odyssey A contemporary and friend of George Daniels (1926-2011), Pratt was one of the most talented horologists o...
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Schaffhausen is the quintessential example of a watchmaker that set out to become famous for one thing but ended up being famous for something else. Founded in 1868 by American expat Florentine Ariosto Jones, the International Watch Company devoted itself chiefly to luxuriously decorated pocket watches in its early years but when the military needs of a European continent at war came calling in the 1940s, Jones’ firm shifted its production to focus on decidedly no-frills, robust, utilitarian wristwatches for use in the cockpits of planes. Fast forwarding to today, most watch enthusiasts still regard IWC first and foremost as a leader in the pilot’s watch genre. But that wasn’t always the case, and in fact, IWC’s 21st-Century collection is about as diverse as that of any watch brand out there. For a newbie to the brand, however, that diversity — and even the diversity within the vastly expanded Pilot’s collection itself — can prove daunting, especially when attempting to choose which IWC watches offer the price-to-value ratio that would motivate one to pull the trigger on a purchase. In this latest article in our recently inaugurated Price of Admission series, I will attempt to help you make sense of IWC’s modern collection from an entry-level pricing standpoint, homing in on the best models to consider as one’s “first” IWC watch. PILOT’S WATCHES: IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic 36 ($4,350) It’s appropriate to start our exploration with the Pilot...
Monochrome
This summer, indie watchmaker Romain Gauthier announced the end of the titanium-case-rubber-strap editions of its contemporary, aesthetically and horologically pleasing C by Romain Gauthier watch line, which was first launched in 2021 as the Continuum and now comprises two sub-collections. The Freedom collection is reserved for titanium-cased watches on straps and titanium bracelets, while the […]
Quill & Pad
In its simplest form, the equation of time is defined as the difference between the time displayed by the position of the sun (as by a sundial) and the mean time displayed by any modern clock or watch. But that's just the beginning. Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains more.
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.