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Deployant
While there is no doubt the central tourbillon is a complication in its own right, the complication to relocate it to the center yields little benefit from a time telling technical perspective. Then again, the whole spiel of a more accurate time keeping using a tourbillon is controversial as well. Ultimately, a tourbillon timepiece is an aesthetic pursuit and that should limit the scope of one's judgement of this timepiece.
SJX Watches
Earlier this year Hublot dropped the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami with its spinning, smiling flower. But the watch was surprisingly all-black – even set with black diamonds – seemingly antithetical to the artist’s splashy, polychromatic style. Now the watchmaker has taken the idea to its logical conclusion (or perhaps there will be more) with the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow. It’s essentially the same watch but rendered in full colour and clear sapphire, an upbeat – and pricey – timepiece that exemplifies the quintessential aesthetic of both Hublot and Murakami. Initial thoughts The all-black Murakami edition was a stellar success – it sold out within a day – and Hublot already had plans at the time for a follow up; in fact, its spokesperson said so during the launch of the original version). Repetition isn’t always exciting for fortunately the new edition is certainly perfectly executed for what it is, while also being a far smaller run. Most importantly, it looks different enough – the chromatic opposite in fact – to make it compelling even for someone who owns the first version. The new look is even more striking, since the transparent case creates an open aesthetic that allows the coloured stones to shine – a case in another material would arguably have diminished the impact of the rainbow gemstones. Notably, the latest version is also true to the both the artist and brand. While a sapphire case isn’t novel, it’s...
Time+Tide
The stainless-steel Omega Ploprof (a French contraction of “Plongeur Professional” i.e. professional diver) is now discontinued, leaving the titanium case as the only new option at retail. What’s more it is now a “heritage model” making me suddenly feel rather old. The Ploprof is big, chunky and looks like it would be more at home … ContinuedThe post Farewell to the Omega Ploprof in steel – the tooliest of tool watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While the most high profile lot at Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is surely the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 made for the 170th anniversary of Tiffany & Co., there are a handful more watches in the sale that are notable for different reasons. One is unquestionably the tourbillon pocket watch George Daniels made for Edward Hornby in 1971 for its sheer horological merit. And another notable watch sits at the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of horological quality – it’s a standard Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch – but it is historically important, having been owned by Ralph Ellison, the novelist best known for Invisible Man. The 2021 New York Watch Auction takes place on December 11 1 (lots 1-81) and December 12 (lots 82-165) at 432 Park Avenue, New York. The rest of the catalogue is available here. Lot 102: George Daniels The Edward Hornby Tourbillon Pocket Watch One of eight similar watches, all equipped with a one-minute tourbillon, this was made in 1971 for Edward Hornby, a lawyer who collected watches. Made during the period of 1969 to 1973, the eight watches were the first of Daniels’ own creations. Almost all were made for English collectors, save for one that Daniels made for his daughter, Sarah Jane, and another for German chemist Thomas Engel. Named after its first owner like all the other watches in the series of eight, the Hornby watch is typical Daniels, and consequently, also very much Breguet in style. Entirely hand made by Daniels,...
SJX Watches
A self-taught guillocheur who conceived an engine-turned motif of his own, Joshua Shapiro was an educator before switching careers to focus on his eponymous brand, J.N. Shapiro. His latest creation is the Infinity Tantalum, a limited edition wristwatch in his typical, classical style but in unusual metals – the guilloche dial is palladium while the chapter ring and case are tantalum (while a portion of the proceeds going to a medical charity). And more unusually, J.N. Shapiro is making both the tantalum components in house. Initial thoughts While Mr Shapiro’s design looks conventionally traditional, it incorporates a handful of details unique to his brand. One is the open-tipped Breguet hands, and the other is the font for the Arabic numerals, which was custom designed for J.N. Shapiro. Here the novel combination of metals give Mr Shapiro’s watch an entirely different look, especially in the version with a grey-coated dial. It’s an attractive look that’s less Breguet-inspired than his earlier watches. And the use of tantalum for the case would also give the watch a pleasing heft, which will give it an appealing tactile feel. The ruthenium-plated dial with rose gold accents At US$33,000, the Infinity Tantalum is pricier than Mr Shapiro’s past models, though it is in line with the convention of tantalum cases being significantly pricier due to the challenges of fabrication. The metal wears out tooling several times more quickly than gold, requiring frequent repl...
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Hodinkee
Jon goes hands-on with the latest Rolex Explorer II and Cole has a charming budget-friendly alternative.
Time+Tide
When I was bingeing Squid Game – the record-breaking Netflix series that has become a global phenomenon – I paused the show more than I would have liked trying to figure out which watch lead actor Lee Jung-jae was wearing. To be honest, I still don’t know. But the next best thing would be to figure … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Luminox Commando Raider is an unusually bright Luminox, which has mostly opted for black or darker colored dial variants. It provides a more vibrant variant for those who appreciate a little more fanfare but maybe less appreciated by those who want more tactical accessorizing. That said, the bright green is not a blocker for those who prefer a tactical color, since there is also a black strap variant.
Revolution
More than just selling watches, Etienne Malec wants to create well-designed, high-quality mechanical watches with price points that appeal to a new generation. Here, we cast the spotlight on his brand, Baltic Watches, and present our collaboration with them - a pulsometer chronograph that is a fantastic value proposition.
Time+Tide
This week, many members of the watch community noted that, once again, Omega has incrementally raised the pricing on one of their bestselling models, the Omega Seamaster 300M. While some wondered if this was a move to capitalise on the lack of availability of competing divers like the Rolex Submariner, the truth is likely far … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Omega raises pricing for Seamaster 300M divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Sapphire crystal. Known for its durability and high transparency, it’s the number one choice for top watch brands around the world, providing a window for the beautiful dials that are on display. However, recently, brands have been experimenting with the material to be more than just a window. Instead, they want to create a full … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY Zero-G and 21 Double Tourbillon are clear-cut winners in sapphire crystal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Martin Green is a big fan of the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chronograph and to date the blue-dial model has been his favorite. But that's now been supplanted by the White Hawk, which he thinks gives this military-inspired watch a more urban touch.
Time+Tide
If you asked me which watch brands the mass marketplace needs to pay greater attention to, Parmigiani Fleurier would genuinely be on my list. In watchmaking, there are at times silent heroes who don’t get their due – even though they work with or supply movements to more household name brands. If you are a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The one-off Parmigiani Fleurier La Rose Carrée flexes the horological might of the manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Ulysse Nardin has been manufacturing pocket and marine chronometers since the 1800s. The company supplied more than 50 navies, institutes and astronomical observatories through the decades. In 2021, Ulysse Nardin celebrates 175 years of watchmaking with Marine Torpilleur timepieces featuring COSC-certified automatic movements, complications and enameled dials.
SJX Watches
Launched in 2016, Globemaster Annual Calendar has remained under-appreciated, despite the distinctive design that combines several elements from historical Omega watches – most notably the “pie pan” dial of the Constellation – and perhaps more importantly, a practical complication. Originally available in the same muted colours as the base-model Globemaster, the Annual Calendar has been refreshed with dials in striking colours and in different metals, including a striking burgundy and of course an olive green. The burgundy dial in a two-tone case Initial thoughts The Globemaster Annual Calendar is an interesting proposition. The complication is unusual – it’s the only annual calendar offered by Omega – while the design is vintage-inspired but quirky. But the Annual Calendar has been overlooked perhaps because of the brand’s wide-ranging catalogue that is packed with more famous models like the Speedmasters, and also because of its old-school case design and restrained colours. So the new trio is certainly a good addition to the line, especially since each of the new colours are striking and relatively unusual. The olive-green version immediately stands out, not only because it’s the year’s most fashionable colour, but also the fact that the shade is perfect – it’s restrained but rich. And it’s in steel, which makes it the most affordable of the variants. Most interesting in terms of aesthetics is the two-tone version. The pairing of a burgundy dia...
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Deployant
Finally, the moment that many have been waiting for. After almost two seemingly long years, it appears that there has been some progress for the travel enthusiasts, in the form of Vaccinated Travel Lanes (“VTLs”). That means, it is also time for us to bring out our dual time zone watches. It is always goodRead More
Time+Tide
We are nearing the end of Dubai Watch Week 2021, but we are approaching the finish line strong. The day remained packed with Horology Forums, Collectors Lounge sessions, Creative Hubs, Masterclasses and more. Later on in the evening things kicked into a higher gear, fitting when you consider the topic of discussion was the 40Hz … ContinuedThe post DUBAI DIARIES: “In Dubai, you could fall asleep on the street with your Richard Mille and it would be there when you wake up” – Pierre Biver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
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Quill & Pad
The Zeitwerk was the watch that encouraged George Cramer to start following A. Lange & Söhne more closely, but it still took years before he finally got to handle one in the metal. And he became instantly addicted.
Quill & Pad
To mark the fiftieth anniversary of the United Arab Emirates, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons worked with Bovet to create an exceptional version of the 19thirty that stands out in its use of color. Martin Green thinks the green-and-orange color combination works so well he wonders why it isn't seen more (and why he didn't think of it himself).
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SJX Watches
Urwerk’s entry-level – and most wearable – model from has just got more interesting at Dubai Watch Week with the new UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket, the first metal bracelet for the UR-100 line, and an integrated bracelet at that. Bracelet aside, the UR-100V also gets a new look – muted shades of grey and almost monochromatic – giving the watch a sleek, clean look that’s handsome. Initial thoughts While an integrated bracelet is now the fad for high-end watches, it is relatively unusual for Urwerk. The latest UR-100 is clearly different from the typical Urwerk. Though the brand has installed bracelets on its watches in the past, they were few in number and restricted to the top-of-the-line models like the UR-210. Despite the new(ish) look, the UR-100V is still very much an Urwerk, because the open dial with wandering hours is instantly recognisable. And the bracelet is smartly done with a minimalist style, so it doesn’t get in the way of the design. In fact, the restrained, all-grey palette will be familiar to long-time fans of the brand. The sand-blasted case and bracelet in shades of grey call to mind earlier models like the UR-105 that was finished similarly, as well as the more recent UR-100 Gunmetal. When this arrived in my inbox, I instantly found it attractive, but I thought the construction of bracelet was too simple. In the photos, it lacks the complexity of Urwerk’s signature cases that are finely machined. But after seeing it in the metal I am co...
Deployant
In a wonderful twist in events in time for the 250th anniversary of Urban Jürgensen in 2023, independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen has acquired the brand with some investors and will be CEO effective immediately. Press Release and commentary in italics. Editorial Commentary This is superbly exciting news for Urban Jürgensen enthusiasts, especially hard core collectors,Read More
Quill & Pad
As might be expected from a collaboration between De Bethune and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the UAE Hawk is absolutely stunning. In essence, it’s a DB27 Titan Hawk in a seven-piece limited edition but it is a touch more classical. What are the other differences? Martin Green takes a closer look.
Deployant
It was the 1970s and the emergence of sports watches is nigh. In anticipation of this trend, one of Switzerland’s most prestigious watch manufacturers, Vacheron Constantin, launched the Reference 222 in honour of its 222nd anniversary. The Reference 222 featured the aesthetic and technical attributes of sports watches and guaranteed 120 m of water resistance.Read More
Deployant
Greubel Forsey adds the new Balancier S2, to their lineup, featuring a more contemporary aesthetic with a new case, new finishing but with the same caliber.
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