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Introducing: The Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019
The brand's unique contribution is a vintage-influenced, manually wound flyback chronograph that uses a historical column-wheel movement.
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Introducing the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue for Only Watch 2019
A young Francois-Paul Journe created his sixth ever watch in 1987; it was an “astronomic planetary watch”, a pocket watch with faces on each side. Over three decades later that has been reimagined as the Astronomic Blue, a prototype grand complication made for Only Watch 2019. Mentioned by Mr Journe in an interview late last year, the Astronomic Blue is a hand-wound wristwatch with astronomical functions on two faces, as well as a minute repeater and tourbillon with remontoir d’egalite. The complications total 18, and are powered by a movement made up of 758 parts, making it more complex than the Sonnerie Souveraine. The astronomic planetary watch of 1987, signed “Journe à Paris” Like the preceding F.P. Journe watches made for Only Watch, namely the tourbillon and split-seconds, the Astronomic Blue has a tantalum case and mirrored blue dial like that found on the Chronometre Bleu. The case is 44mm in diameter and 13.75mm high, making it comparable in size to the discontinued Sonnerie Souverain and recent Tourbillon Souverain Vertical. Remembering 1987 As with many of Mr Journe’s early creations, the pocket watch was inspired by both Abraham-Louis Breguet and George Daniels, a quality that is echoed in the Astronomic Blue. Like the George Daniels Space Traveller, the front shows sidereal and mean solar time on two symmetrically arranged sub-dials, while the reverse has a ring-type annual calendar and equation of time indicator, which is reminiscent of the...
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Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717
Editor’s note: Trust Breguet to take the comparatively uncomplicated act of adding a second time zone into something extra. Rather than your typical GMT hand scenario, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 demonstrates a very cool, very technical twist on the complication. Read on for Sandra’s review … The remarkable Hora Mundi ref. 5717 … ContinuedThe post Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The 3 faces of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Ultra Thin Enamel collection
A few weeks ago we spent some quality time with a few friends and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest Master Ultra Thin pieces, with eye-catching guilloché enamel dials. Well, before the watches were locked away for the evening in their display cases, we took the opportunity to get up close and personal with these beauties. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra … ContinuedThe post The 3 faces of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Ultra Thin Enamel collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The incredible history of the Breitling Emergency
We take another look at the history of one of the most unique and potentially life-saving watches out there, the Breitling Emergency.The post The incredible history of the Breitling Emergency appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Why I lie about the number of watches I own
Editor’s note: Cam wrote this snappy little opinion piece for us last year, and you know what - we still don’t know how many watches he owns. More than two, and less than 20 … we think. I think we’ve all found ourselves in a similar situation. You’re at a BBQ, surrounded by friends and … ContinuedThe post Why I lie about the number of watches I own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Doubling down on two-tone – the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G;
Two years can be a long time in the life of a product – long enough for it to go from controversial to comfortably accepted, or even loved, as its challenging elements become softened by familiarity. That’s certainly true for two of the watches introduced by Tudor in 2017, which attracted attention and controversy in … ContinuedThe post Doubling down on two-tone – the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018
Quartz often gets a bad rap as the ugly duckling of the watch world. With pejoratives such as “soulless”, and “the quartz watch is entirely dependent on its battery and it has the dedicated ambition to commit suicide as soon as possible”, it takes a beating. And while the latter quote was by a not-insignificant … ContinuedThe post These are 6 of the best quartz watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original?
Editor’s note: It’s an tricky question, but the new Railmaster makes a compelling case for the ‘yes’ camp … Yesterday, we showed you the Seamaster Railmaster, a modern incarnation of the classic professional model. But it wasn’t the only Railmaster released last year. No, there’s also this watch, the limited edition 60th anniversary commemorative watch … ContinuedThe post Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton
Architectural is a word that gets thrown around a lot in watch writing, and when you look at a watch like this Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton you can see why. The clear, expansive view provided allows the wearer to look down at a tiny, and industrious city, busily whirring away. And if we continue the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Haven Watch Co. Introduces the Chilton Chronograph
Based in the American Midwest, Haven Watch Co. makes its debut with the Chilton, an eye-catching, hand-wound chronograph that’s a blend of retro design elements and affordably priced. The watches takes inspiration from the 1970s, perhaps the golden age of sports watches, and specifically, the funky designs and bold colours of the era’s regatta timers. Despite the incongruent combination of design features, the watch is refreshing and captures the bold, experimental spirit of the 1970s. Beyond the design, the Chilton is notable for being the first watch on the market powered by the new, hand-wound, “compax” chronograph movement from Sellita. While the movement is Swiss made, the external components like the case and dial are made in Asia, and the watches are put together in the United States. The Chilton is available on either a blue or white dial with a “compax” layout, both of which feature the same regatta-style 30-minute register that is divided into 10-minute segments. It doesn’t have an actual countdown function, of course, but vintage aesthetics, and not utility, motivate the design. The chronograph counters are small and far apart, just as it was on vintage chronographs, albeit ones that came long before the 1970s. And if the chunky hands look familiar, they are similar to those found on the Universal Geneva Compax “Nina Rindt”. The vintage styling also explains the decimal scale on the blue dial and pulsometer scale on the white. T...
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Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept
Like all good stories filled with plot and intrigue, this one involves acquiring a pressure testing machine, and the decision to design a dive watch with it. Just like that, the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept was born. In case you’re not familiar with Ming, they’re a relatively young brand that’s been making a lot of … ContinuedThe post Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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VIDEO: The 2019 Montblanc 1858 releases go back to nature
When Montblanc’s 1858 collection burst onto the scene back in 2015 it heralded a bold new direction for the brand, adding a no-nonsense, outdoorsy sensibility to what had, until that point, been a fairly buttoned-up collection of watches. Since that initial drop, the 1858 has gone from strength to strength, and their 2019 slate of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 2019 Montblanc 1858 releases go back to nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold
Just the other day, Sandra was opining about the changing face of two-tone, and today this fine example of modern bi-colour watches hits the proverbial desk. The Record collection is Longines’ line of dressy daily wearers that offer a great entry point into some pretty serious mechanical watchmaking. And that’s because every single watch in the … ContinuedThe post Mixing business with pleasure in the form of the Longines Record in steel and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G was unveiled at Baselworld 2018 to much fanfare, as it marked the debut of the perpetual calendar complication in the iconic Gérald Genta-designed watch. It still retains its signature looks, with the embossed blue dial, integrated bracelet and 40mm size. It’s also got a pleasing degree of heft … ContinuedThe post Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market
The watch auction market has hit serious momentum over the last four or five years, with record-breaking results being produced every season. While a portion of the soaring prices can be attributed to macro factors - such as democratised information on vintage watches through the explosion of sites that cover the topic - this isn’t the whole … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Artisans de Genève Introduces the Daytona “La Barrichello”
Anyone who followed Formula 1 in the 1990s to the early 2000s would remember Rubens Barrichello as effective driver. Though the Brazilian did not win any championships, he notched up 11 wins and 68 podium finishes. Like many fellow Formula 1 drivers, Mr Barrichello likes watches and was once an Audemars Piguet ambassador; the Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello II of 2006 was one of the hottest watches of the era. Unsurprisingly, Mr Barrichello is apparently a fan of the Rolex Daytona – arguably the auto racing watch – explaining his collaboration with Artisans de Genève, a Swiss outfit that specialises in customising Rolex watches. They gave his Rolex Daytona a makeover to create “La Barrichello”, a strikingly and heavily modified Cosmograph Daytona with an open-worked movement. Notably, Artisans de Genève just last year performed a similar custom job on a Daytona belonging to Juan-Pablo Montoya, another F1 driver who was active in the sport at the same time as Mr Barrichello. Both drivers’ skeletonised watches are novel in a good way; much of Artisans de Genève’s other creations are modern Daytonas modified to look like vintage “Paul Newman” Daytonas, which is arguably less interesting. Creative differences “La Barrichello” started out as the all-steel Daytona ref. 116520, which is the preceding generation of Daytona that was first introduced in 2000 before being replaced by the ref. 116500LN (distinguished by its ceramic bezel) in 2...
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INTRODUCING: An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph to celebrate The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversary
It’s a truism to say that the watch industry loves an anniversary, and while mostly it’s the watch brands doing the celebrating, this time it is a retailer celebrating the big 4-0. Boy, are they celebrating in style. The Hour Glass is one of the major retail figures in the Asia-Pacific region, with more than … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph to celebrate The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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RECOMMENDED READING: The rise of patina
One of the longest and most sustained watch ‘trends’ in recent times is that of vintage and retro styled pieces. In fact, you could argue that it’s now a bona fide category in its own right. And underlying this entire movement is the concept of patina. Sure, retro design plays a part, but the real … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The rise of patina appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Thin end of the wedge – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
The first watch I saw at Baselworld 2019 was the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. I saw it at a preview dinner before the fair proper, and honestly, it kind of ruined me for other watches at the fair. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is just so impressive. Not only is it … ContinuedThe post Thin end of the wedge – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Omega now rules the deep seas with the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional
Big news overnight from the house of Omega – they can now claim the lofty (well, the opposite actually) title of deepest diving watch ever. Just how deep are we talking here? How about 10,928 metres? That’s the depth Victor Vescovo took his submersible, Limiting Factor into the Mariana Trench. And on that sub, was the Omega … ContinuedThe post Omega now rules the deep seas with the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Skip the waitlist – 10 of the best steel sports watches you can buy right now
Ten years ago, this phenomenon only existed in the uppermost echelons of the watchmaking world – the waiting list. There’s a lot of wild speculation around why waitlists for certain models exist, with some suggesting market forces, and others suggesting less passive forces. Regardless of their cause, they don’t appear to be disappearing anytime soon, … ContinuedThe post Skip the waitlist – 10 of the best steel sports watches you can buy right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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What it’s like to live with the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer
As we all know, the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer is a very rare watch, made by a manufacturer that prides itself on keeping rarity at the core of what it does. What makes this specific H. Moser & Cie Pioneer rare is that of the hundreds of watches Time + Tide Watches Founder Andrew … ContinuedThe post What it’s like to live with the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019
This year, Zenith is lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the El Primero automatic chronograph, which is being marked with the release of the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival. This is a very cool watch for a number of reasons, but first, let’s look back a half century. The birth of the El … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Why the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival is one of the best reissues of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Not your granddad’s Patek – the Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A
Editor’s note: One of the funny quirks of the English language is that there’s no word that rhymes with orange. Certainly, Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A doesn’t, but don’t let that fool you, because this (very) fine fellow, with its orange details and neon strap option, is as orange as the sunset over Miami … … ContinuedThe post Not your granddad’s Patek – the Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The stealthy, sexy, surprising Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo family has been shattering records left, right and centre since its introduction in 2014. But the watch that really captured the hearts and minds of fans and critics alike was the Octo Finissimo Automatic - initially offered in sandblasted titanium, and shortly after in distinctive steel and gold versions. Well, this year … ContinuedThe post The stealthy, sexy, surprising Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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5 of the hottest Jaeger-LeCoultre watches of 2019
Editor’s note: There’s word on the street that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2019 collection is in town. And that word is from us, because we’re throwing a party to celebrate the fact, tonight. If you’re a fan of enamel or the Master Ultra Thin collection, you should be all over these watches. Watch below and you’ll see why … ContinuedThe post 5 of the hottest Jaeger-LeCoultre watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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RECOMMENDED READING: 1969 – the year that changed watchmaking forever
In the history of the 20th century, few years are as loaded with cultural weight as the year 1969. It’s defined in our collective memory as the year of Woodstock and the Moon Landing, but it’s also a year of great significance for watches. Chris Hall has done the heavy lifting here for QP Magazine, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: 1969 – the year that changed watchmaking forever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Spending some quality time with the Rolex 116710 BLNR Batman
Editor’s note: Our resident Canadian correspondent Justin is a man of some fairly intense and deeply held passions - at least when it comes to watches. His proclivities for bold straps and quirky indies are immediately apparent if you take even a quick glance at his Instagram. His love for the already iconic (and already … ContinuedThe post Spending some quality time with the Rolex 116710 BLNR Batman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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People are clearly still polarised by the Tudor Black Bay P01 – which team are you in?
Chatter about controversial watches happens everywhere from the halls of Baselworld to the comments section of Instagram, but the fury is often short-lived. A couple of notable exceptions released in 2019 included the 11.59 Collection by Audemars Piguet, and for different reasons – the Tudor P01. When we posted a pic of it on Instagram … ContinuedThe post People are clearly still polarised by the Tudor Black Bay P01 – which team are you in? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.