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Results for Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève)

23,640 articles · 175 videos found · page 267 of 794

INTRODUCING: The dark horses of 2020 are Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Infinity Editions in 38mm and 42mm Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux s Laureato Infinity Editions Sep 3, 2020

INTRODUCING: The dark horses of 2020 are Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Infinity Editions in 38mm and 42mm

Girard-Perregaux was established in 1856 in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, thanks to the marriage of Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux. The workshops origins were actually as early as 1791, but were not acquired by Girard-Perregaux completely until 1906. Though its history and heritage is in line with brands such as Patek Philippe (1839), … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The dark horses of 2020 are Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Infinity Editions in 38mm and 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bernhard Lederer Debuts the Central Impulse Chronometer Prototype SJX Watches
Aug 25, 2020

Bernhard Lederer Debuts the Central Impulse Chronometer Prototype

A member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since its founding in 1985, Bernhard Lederer is a veteran of independent watchmaking. Though known amongst collectors for having founded the brand BLU in 2002, Mr Lederer is more of a watchmaker’s watchmaker, supplying movements and complications via his company MHM (short for “Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie et Micromécanique”). Born in Germany but based in Switzerland for decades, Mr Lederer’s technical prowess is on full view with his latest creation – the Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC). Seemingly a mere three-hand wristwatch on the front, the CIC is a actually a significant accomplishment – and undoubtedly one of the most notable watches of 2020 from a technical perspective. The movement is equipped with a natural escapements as well as dual gear trains. The construction is familiar – Mr Lederer describes it as a tribute to the late George Daniels and his landmark Space Traveller pocket watch – but improved and refined with the addition a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism for each going train. Initial thoughts With seemingly everything already having been done in watchmaking, it is not often that we encounter a genuinely interesting – and improved – twist to an already uncommon escapement. Here Mr Lederer rejuvenates the centuries-old idea of the natural escapement, but elevated by the added complexity and performance gains of twin remontoir going tr...

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The Golden Age Of Rolex Movements: 4-Part Series Looking At Breakthroughs, Golden Years, And Predictions For The Future Of The World’s Most Iconic Watch Brand Quill & Pad
Rolex Movements 4-Part Series Looking Aug 17, 2020

The Golden Age Of Rolex Movements: 4-Part Series Looking At Breakthroughs, Golden Years, And Predictions For The Future Of The World’s Most Iconic Watch Brand

In 2019 we ran an interesting four-part series by Tim Mosso of Watchbox fame detailing the history, present, and future of Rolex movements. Tim put hours and hours’ worth of research into this oeuvre, and now, as we settle into a slow, post-lockdown summer, we thought it well worth drawing your attention to this series in case you missed it first time round. Enjoy!

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The curious case of the Gevril Tribeca: 5 reasons why it is the king of homage watches Time+Tide
Aug 7, 2020

The curious case of the Gevril Tribeca: 5 reasons why it is the king of homage watches

Homage watches within the enthusiast community can be quite a contentious topic at times. Are they rip-offs? Cash cows? Sell-outs? Unoriginal? The reality is opinions can vary, but the true metric or equaliser of any watch to an extent is how they perform on the grey or second-hand market. While the objective of most homage … ContinuedThe post The curious case of the Gevril Tribeca: 5 reasons why it is the king of homage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic Jul 27, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet

Often, it is incremental and deliberate design progress - slow to the point that the casual observer might not even notice it - that creates the best products. Tiny changes, layered on one another year after year, are the key to creating an unmistakable visual identity that stands the test of time. It’s a blueprint that … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Auction Watch: Unique Daytona “Zenith” Becomes Most Expensive Modern Rolex SJX Watches
Zenith Becomes Most Expensive Jul 11, 2020

Auction Watch: Unique Daytona “Zenith” Becomes Most Expensive Modern Rolex

Having just set the record for a modern Rolex wristwatch two years ago when a unique, platinum Daytona ref. 16516 with a Zenith movement sold for US$871,000, Sotheby’s broke its own record with yet another one-off Daytona in platinum that sold for HK$25,375,000, or about US$3.27 million, fees included. The Daytona became the most valuable modern Rolex despite having been relatively under the radar prior to the sale. While the platinum Daytona sold in 2018 was widely published in the press and social, today’s example was not covered by any of the key horological publications. And it was depicted with a bizarre turquoise leather strap in catalogue photos, though the strap was replaced with one in a neutral shade of tan during the preview exhibition. The famous five Both were part of a five-piece run of Zenith Daytona watches with platinum cases made at the request of former Rolex chief executive Patrick Heiniger in 1999. The late Heiniger reputedly kept one for himself, and gifted the others to key business partners. The watch sold in 2018 for instance was a wedding gift a member of the family that was a longtime Rolex retailer in Italy. All share the same model reference 16516, but each was unique in having a different dial made of an exotic or precious material. The example sold in 2018 had a dark mother of pearl dial, which was also found on the standard-production white gold Daytona of the period. In contrast, the platinum Daytona that just sold at Sotheby’s has a ...

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You’re Invited: Webinar – Highlights from Hong Kong Watch Auction: X SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2499/100 Jul 3, 2020

You’re Invited: Webinar – Highlights from Hong Kong Watch Auction: X

Starting slightly later than usual, the auction season in Hong Kong starts in the second week of July, with Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X happening on July 10 at the JW Marriott. The situation makes attending the sale in person difficult for most of us, so you’re invite to join myself and Thomas Perazzi, Phillips’ head of watches in Asia, for a webinar on July 6. We will discuss the highlights of the 269-lot sale, which is led by a Patek Philippe ref. 2499/100 and a possibly-unique ref. 3448 in white gold. Schedule The webinar will take place on July 6, 2020 at 04:00 pm GMT+8 (Singapore, Hong Kong, Beijing). And for other time zones: 06:00 pm GMT+10 (Sydney) 10:00 am GMT+2 (Berlin, Frankfurt, Milan, Geneva, Zurich) 09:00 am GMT+1 (London) 04:00 am GMT-4 (New York, Boston) 01:00 am GMT-7 (Vancouver) Registration is required to attend, and you can register right here.  

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Cartier Introduces a Pair of Grand Complications (and a Mystery) SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces May 22, 2020

Cartier Introduces a Pair of Grand Complications (and a Mystery)

Since its debut in 2008, the Cartier Fine Watchmaking (FWM) collection has been the jeweller-watchmaker’s flagship range of timepieces, incorporating highly complicated movements into watches designed in traditional Cartier style, albeit in very large cases. This year’s Fine Watchmaking line-up is made up of four watches – led by the uber-complex Grand Complication Skeleton – all presented in the round Rotonde de Cartier case. Initial thoughts I have held the Cartier FWM collection in high regard – it is testimony to the brand’s haute horlogerie prowess, which most tend to underestimate or are unaware of. So it was a bit disappointing to see FWM recede slightly starting in 2018 as Cartier focused instead on its historical, time-only watches – such as this year’s Tank Asymétrique – which have been resurrected as the Cartier Privé collection. The debut of this quartet of watches is a pleasing return to form for FWM, though it should be pointed out none of the are entirely new in terms of movements. The “mystery” complication of Cartier has been found in several FWM models in the past, but it never fails to astound. The mystery hours, for instance, are simple, time-only watches but have a great deal of visual allure. And the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton revives one of the most complicated movements ever developed by Cartier, while being visually stimulating with its open-worked dial that exposes the intricate and complex move...

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Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 “Rainbow” – Again SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces May 20, 2020

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 “Rainbow” – Again

Just in April this year, Breitling unveiled the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Rainbow, a limited edition of just 250 pieces that it sold out within a few hours according to Breitling chief executive Georges Kern. With the presses for the 250 barely cool, Breitling has announced another rainbow-theme diver, the Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II. This time, the limited edition is 1,000 pieces – but with a charitable twist: 500,000 Swiss francs from the sale of the new edition will go to charities that support healthcare workers. The bulk of the sum has already been donated, split evenly amongst six charities in six countries that are amongst the hardest hit by the COVID-19 pandemic. Initial thoughts Issuing an almost-identical edition after the initial home run is not cool. It feels a bit too blatant. That said, it is substantially redeemed by the generous donation, which is equivalent to about 10% of gross revenue from the new “Rainbow II”. It is encouraging to see watchmakers leverage on their brand equity to aid relief efforts. As for the watch itself, the Rainbow II is actually a better looking watch. While the first edition had had a black dial and bezel, the new edition employs a blue dial and bezel that I find to be even more striking. The primary attraction is of course the rainbow-graduated hour markers that inject a playful element into what’s otherwise a serious-looking retro dive watch. While the rainbow markers may be divisive – I lo...

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8 deadly new Sinns from 2020, including dress watches (yes, really), refined pilots and divers Time+Tide
Sinn s from 2020 including May 17, 2020

8 deadly new Sinns from 2020, including dress watches (yes, really), refined pilots and divers

Sinn is a brand that is stealthily emerging from the shadows. The Frankfurt-based manufacturer favours slow incremental changes to their product line, making their watches better every year, but never reinventing the wheel as they go about it. This year, the new collection has looked to improve on a few older references, as well as … ContinuedThe post 8 deadly new Sinns from 2020, including dress watches (yes, really), refined pilots and divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hublot, you’ve come a long way baby. 16 photos that show just how far the brand has come in 15 years Time+Tide
Hublot you’ve come May 5, 2020

Hublot, you’ve come a long way baby. 16 photos that show just how far the brand has come in 15 years

One fact that seems to have been roundly overlooked in recent years is the slow, steady, but really quite emphatic, elevation in Hublot’s yearly releases. In terms of technical complexity, case design and overall finishing. The Hublot of 2020 is not the brand that Jean-Claude Biver re-introduced to the world 15 years ago with the … ContinuedThe post Hublot, you’ve come a long way baby. 16 photos that show just how far the brand has come in 15 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Limited Editions SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 24, 2020

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Limited Editions

Hot on the heels of the Santos-Dumont XL hand-wind, Cartier has dropped four limited edition variants of the same at Watches & Wonders 2020, each dedicated to one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s most significant aircraft. Within just a decade, the pioneering Franco-Brazilian aviator designed and piloted diverse methods of conquering the skies, from balloons and dirigibles to heavier-than-air aircraft. The four flying machines commemorated by the new limited edition Santos-Dumont watches each represent a different milestone in his career, starting with his first balloon, the Brésil of 1898, to his greatest feat, the La Demoiselle plane of 1908.   Increasing in edition size as the price decreases with the preciousness of the case, all four editions are mechanical, powered by the ultra-thin 430 MC found in the Santos-Dumont XL, which is actually a Piaget 430P. Though they share the same movement, the editions are not all the same size. The first three are in the large Santos-Dumont case, with dimensions of 43.5 mm by 31.4 mm, perfectly appropriate for a modern-day dress watch, offering just the right balance between elegance and presence. The last and most expensive edition, on the other hand, is platinum and XL size, meaning it is 46.6 mm by 33.9 mm. Santos-Dumont XL in platinum (extreme left), and the trio of large-size editions Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil” Limited to 100 pieces, “Le Bresil” is named after Santos-Dumont’s first flying machine, a hot-air balloon not...

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Nick’s 5 favourite new watches from the first quarter of 2020, including Audemars Piguet, Bulgari and H. Moser & Cie Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Bulgari Apr 18, 2020

Nick’s 5 favourite new watches from the first quarter of 2020, including Audemars Piguet, Bulgari and H. Moser & Cie

For anyone reading this in April 2020, you’ll agree that it’s a strange time to be alive. Somehow, we have already seen three months of 2020, a point that has felt both incredibly fast and agonisingly slow to pass. As the interconnected health and economic crises continue to unfold around the world, the news cycle … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 5 favourite new watches from the first quarter of 2020, including Audemars Piguet, Bulgari and H. Moser & Cie appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Zenith’s 2020 Collection for men, a flyover with CEO Julien Tornare Time+Tide
Zenith s 2020 Collection Apr 16, 2020

Zenith’s 2020 Collection for men, a flyover with CEO Julien Tornare

With the sell-out success of the Revolution ‘Cover Girl’ Limited Edition, and the astonishing Midnight Collection for women launched in January, Zenith are officially on a hot streak. When I put that to CEO Julien Tornare, just before we started rolling camera, he said something quite unforgettable. “When I took over [at Zenith] two and … ContinuedThe post Zenith’s 2020 Collection for men, a flyover with CEO Julien Tornare appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Akrivia AK-06 SJX Watches
Akrivia Apr 3, 2020

Up Close: Akrivia AK-06

Akrivia, and by extension its founder Rexhep Rexhepi, became a star in independent watchmaking with the launch of the Chronometre Contemporain in 2018, a unique version of which went on to sell for 360,000 Swiss francs at charity auction Only Watch. While its success was recent, the brand was actually founded in 2012, having made its debut with the AK series, characterised by a wholly-different aesthetic, one that Rexhep himself describes as a startup’s attempt to make an impression. The bridge between the twin collections of Akrivia – the contemporary AK series and the classical Chronometre Contemporain – is the AK-06. It’s powered by a variant of the movement found in the Chronometre Contemporain, but enhanced by doing away with the dial to reveal the under-dial mechanics, but installed inside an AK-style case, albeit one that’s been redesigned and streamlined. The AK-06 in titanium (left) and steel Beyond being a blend of both Akrivia styles – the best of both worlds if you like the case design – the AK-06 is perhaps historically significant, being the last of the first-generation Akrivia models, since Rexhep has indicated the AK series will eventually feature a wholly new case design. But whatever you think of the case, the movement of the AK-06 is absolutely marvellous. In fact, it is arguably more compelling than the similar calibre in the Chronometre Contemporain, because with the AK-06 all of its engaging mechanics are revealed on the front. AK case...

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Phillips Perpetual Introduces City Hunter 2 Jacket for Charity SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Apr 3, 2020

Phillips Perpetual Introduces City Hunter 2 Jacket for Charity

Phillips Perpetual has just unveiled its sartorial collaboration with The Armoury – a special edition of the City Hunter 2 jacket, a bestseller at the menswear retailer founded by Mark Cho (who once had the misfortune of buying a stolen F.P. Journe and then wrote a story about it). More importantly, the entirety of the proceeds from the sale of the jackets go to the COVID-Solidarity Response Fund set up by the World Health Organisation (WHO). As the London-based watch boutique of the eponymous auction house, Phillips Perpetual offers a selection of timepieces available for immediate purchase, a proposition meant to fill the gap between the traditional bi-annual watch auctions according to its founder James Marks, a hedge fund manager turned watch specialist. The Phillips Perpetual x The Armoury City Hunter 2 is its first offering beyond watches – and will support a good cause. A meld of several traditional European hunting jacket styles, the City Hunter 2 jacket is made of knitted jersey, essentially tightly-woven wool that is slightly stretchy and notably robust. The jacket is unlined and has a “seamless construction” where the fabric panels are joined edge to edge, giving it a relaxed fit. It’s usually available in dark blue, grey, or olive green with matching stitching, but the Phillips Perpetual version is in dark grey-houndstooth fabric with a contrasting white stitching. And perhaps more pertinently, Francois-Paul Journe himself wears a City Hunter jacke...

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INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life Time+Tide
Chanel J12 X-Ray Mar 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life

Transparency is almost always a good thing, be it in political donations, corporate bonuses or who your local member of parliament is having lunch with. It is a concept that Chanel has adopted as a motif in their watchmaking department, seen in the Boy.Friend Skeleton, their remarkable Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch (an almost US$800,000 skeletonised … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chanel J12 X-Ray is the clarity you need in your life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019? Time+Tide
Seiko Mar 7, 2020

Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019?

Editor’s note: Seiko dropped what seemed like an innumerable amount of limited edition timepieces in 2019, and that got us thinking – which one was best? That’s a much tougher question than it sounds, but this SLA033 dive watch surely has to be in the running. A revival of the prolific 6105, a watch made … ContinuedThe post Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: RJ-Romain Jerome Declares Bankruptcy SJX Watches
Hublot manager Mr Arpa was Feb 27, 2020

Business News: RJ-Romain Jerome Declares Bankruptcy

RJ Watches, better known as Romain Jerome, has just gone bankrupt. Announced almost exactly a month after De Grisogono met the same fate, the bankruptcy of RJ Watches SA is the consequence of its majority shareholder, a company controlled by a member of the Saudi royal family, deciding to “stop investing in the company”. Though RJ was never a major watchmaker – its peak revenue was around 20 million Swiss francs – the brand was often in the headlines thanks to its shrewd and occasionally ridiculous marketing. Founded in 2004 and named after the two sons of its founder, Alain Bajulaz, RJ started out making mechanical golf-counter watches, but swiftly took a drastic new direction after Yvan Arpa was appointed chief executive in 2006. By then owned by the Saudi investor, RJ enjoyed a brief period of turbocharged, and in hindsight unsustainable, growth under Mr Arpa. A former Hublot manager, Mr Arpa was a fervent marketer of the most preposterous ideas that were somehow weirdly compelling. Amongst his creations were the rusty-looking Titanic DNA watches and timepieces sprinkled with actual Moon dust. Perhaps the masterpiece was a rusty-Titanic double tourbillon that had no hands and did not tell the time. The 2008 collaboration between Romain Jerome and Cabestan producing the Titanic DNA tourbillon – and now both brands are no more The case has a stabilised and protected rusty-look finish Mr Arpa and the company parted ways in 2009 amidst a lawsuit, and he went o...

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Breguet travel watches and the spirit of exploration – the Hora Mundi ref. 5717 Time+Tide
Breguet travel watches Feb 15, 2020

Breguet travel watches and the spirit of exploration – the Hora Mundi ref. 5717

Editor’s note: Breguet has a remarkable history of producing clocks and watches that were designed for travel. Whether it’s the marine chronometers made to set sail across the world’s oceans, or the more conventional GMT wristwatch, the brand has always understood the human urge to seek what is over the horizon. With the Hora Mundi … ContinuedThe post Breguet travel watches and the spirit of exploration – the Hora Mundi ref. 5717 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman Feb 15, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman

Of all the Swiss watch manufacturers, Audemars Piguet has had one of the longest and most storied histories since their founding in the Vallée de Joux in 1875. For their entire period of operation, Audemars Piguet has been a family-run watchmaker, affording them an independence from the commercial pressures of conglomerates and allowing the brand … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: Swatch Group Takes Legal Action Against COMCO SJX Watches
Hamilton According Feb 13, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Takes Legal Action Against COMCO

Just before the new year, Swiss competition regulator COMCO, also known by its German acronym Weko, announced a provisional suspension of ETA’s right to sell movements to third-party brands. Once the dominant supplier of mechanical movements in Switzerland, ETA and its parent Swatch Group have been embroiled in a decades-long dispute with COMCO over the movement maker’s allegedly anticompetitive practices. Now the dispute between Switzerland’s largest watchmaking group and COMCO has taken a fresh turn with the Swatch Group filing a complaint with the Swiss federal court on January 20, demanding a repeal of COMCO’s decision to suspend sales, a move first reported by Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ). An example of an ETA movement with upgraded features that ETA only supplies to sister brands; seen here inside a Hamilton According to the competition agency, the suspension of sales is meant to further weaken ETA’s market power as a major movement supplier, while allowing space for other movement suppliers to ramp up production and build their order books. The suspension remains in force until summer 2020, when COMCO will reach a final verdict on ETA’s rights and obligations. COMCO did allow a narrow exception to the ban, allowing ETA to sell its movements to small- and medium-sized watch brands that are existing clients. But the exception came a stipulation: Swatch Group has to treat all clients equally, which means selling movements to one small brand...

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Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 5, 2020

Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements

French startup Semper & Adhuc is making its debut with a familiar proposition: affordable, time-only watches, but with a historically conscious twist – each watch is powered by a homeless vintage movement. Also unusual is the fact that while the movements are Swiss, namely the A. Schild AS 1012, every other part of the watch, including case, dial, and hands, is made in France. The brand was started in 2016 by watchmaker Colin de Tonnac, who spent several years at Patek Philippe in Geneva before setting up Semper & Adhuc in Bordeaux. The inaugural line-up is made up of three minimalist watches with quirky details and form cases, but the most interesting bit is the slightly romantic rationale behind the movement inside. Saving abandoned movements All three models are powered by the same calibre, the hand-wound AS 1012 produced by A. Schild, a Grenchen-based movement maker that was once one of Switzerland’s largest. Produced from 1936 to 1960, the AS 1012 is an unusual movement because it is, or rather was, an oval form calibre destined for ladies’ watches, explaining the compact size of about 13 mm by 15 mm. It has 17 or 21 jewels depending on the version, and a 36-hour power reserve. Examples of the AS 1012 and its variants The AS 1012 was inexpensive and robust, making it popular enough that millions were produced. And after the Quartz Crisis, a good number of the movements – likely the majority of them – were in watches that were no longer desirable. That wa...

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