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Results for Côtes de Genève

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Côtes de Genève

Parallel-striped decoration on bridges and rotors; the Swiss (or Glashütte) finishing marker.

DOXA Introduces their Latest Clive Cussler Limited Edition Diver Worn & Wound
Doxa Introduces their Latest Clive Jul 15, 2026

DOXA Introduces their Latest Clive Cussler Limited Edition Diver

Having lived so far away from us, I have very few memories of my grandfather before his passing. Other than the fact that he was a regular at the local Legion in rural Indiana and liked having westerns on the TV, my memories are mostly sensory: the smell of tobacco, the first sip of beer he let me have when I was still a kid. I can only imagine he, too, considered me a stranger who just happened to share a last name and a few chromosomes here and there. Even still, every year, he would give me a Clive Cussler book. He knew I was a reader, but he was not. My guess is that, in some ways, he wanted me to read the books he would have read, to tell the stories he would have liked. He just never got around to it, I suppose. This is my first memory of Cussler’s books. And while I have read a few of them, mostly when I was younger as a sort of favor to my grandfather, I don’t remember many of the plots. I remember more of who Cussler was as a person: born in the Midwest between the wars, a veteran, and later an author and maritime explorer. My grandfather shared some of those same biographical details, but their lives diverged somewhere in adulthood. Cussler felt like a parallel version of the life my grandfather could have lived – had debt, circumstance, and the family farm not gotten in the way. I was reminded of all of this when DOXA released the new SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler, a limited edition introduced on what would have been Cussler’s 95th birthday. Cussler brought ...

Five New(ish) Watches I Liked at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago Worn & Wound
Vulcain Cricket Titanium  There’s just Jul 15, 2026

Five New(ish) Watches I Liked at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago

This year’s edition of the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago is in the books. As always, the Chicago show played host to a huge variety of brands that covered every imaginable genre of watch, price points up and down the spectrum, and truly offered something for every taste. And as is the case with every Windup these days, it was an opportunity for many brands to debut brand new watches for an audience hungry for something special. There was no shortage of limited edition releases and entirely new watches timed for unveiling at Windup this year, as well as a bunch that launched recently and were getting their first public look.  This list is by no means exhaustive, but here are five watches I saw at Windup in Chicago over the weekend that are either brand new or almost new that really stood out to me. Let me know in the comments what I may have missed – even with three days to wander around, I’m sure there are watches I simply didn’t get a chance to see.  Vulcain Cricket Titanium  There’s just something so charming about the Vulcain Cricket. Alarm watches are an anachronistic niche within an already anachronistic hobby. Setting a mechanical alarm on your watch when simply saying the words “Siri, set an alarm for…” feels like an act of rebellion in the digital age. I’m not sure how many owners of modern (or vintage) Crickets actually use the alarm function for practical purposes (it’s one of the great parlor tricks at a watch meetup, of course) but knowing...

First Look - The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red Monochrome
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red Jul 15, 2026

First Look - The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red

Since its streamlined redesign in 2022, the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance has become the independent watchmaking brand‘s signature expression of one of the rarest mechanical phenomena in watchmaking. Without altering the movement, later editions have offered variations in colour and materials used, from the Manufacture Green and Ice Blue models to the warm rose gold […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Guido Terreni (Chief Executive Officer, Parmigiani Fleurier) Hodinkee
Parmigiani Fleurier Jul 15, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Guido Terreni (Chief Executive Officer, Parmigiani Fleurier)

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the leader behind one of the strongest turnaround stories in the industry in recent years. Guido Terreni joined Parmigiani Fleurier as CEO in January 2021 from Bulgari and has overseen a dramatic transformation in the design, style, and fortunes of the brand founded by master watchmaker and restoration expert Michel Parmigiani in 1996, with backing from the Sandoz Family Foundation. Under Terreni's guidance, Parmigian Fleurier has been transformed. Striving to convey the concept of "private luxury," the brand has released a series of surprising, elegant, technically innovative, and yet restrained timepieces under its Tonda PF and Toric model lines.  The brand has done nothing less than reimagine and reinterpret classic complications, including the GMT and, most recently, the Tonda PF Chronograph Mysteriéux, which stole the show, for many, at this year's Watches and Wonders.  In a wide-ranging conversation, Terreni unveils the philosophy behind the brand's discreet aesthetic and the structure behind its manufacture and organization. We discuss retail, production, and design concepts aimed at taking Parmigiani Fleurier to the next level in the hyper-competitive luxury space.   There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an epis...

Introducing - The new Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Green Lum Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Green Lum Jul 15, 2026

Introducing - The new Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Green Lum

Known mostly for its military-inspired and pilot’s watches from the BR-01 and BR-03 series, the emblematic circle-within-a-square design, Bell & Ross has long mastered the use of luminescent materials, either to amplify functionality or to create striking models. All marketed under the Lum series, this ample use of Super-LumiNova has become a signature and is […]

The March LA.B AM2 XS Series Cracks Every Dress Code With Ease Fratello
Jul 15, 2026

The March LA.B AM2 XS Series Cracks Every Dress Code With Ease

One thing that makes a watch series interesting to me is variety. I love it when a series can transform like a chameleon without losing its recognizability. The March LA.B AM2 collection does exactly that. The watches’ shapes and details make them instantly recognizable. Even though the brand has introduced a string of different versions, […] Visit The March LA.B AM2 XS Series Cracks Every Dress Code With Ease to read the full article.

Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer Fratello
Jul 15, 2026

Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer

It has been almost a year since my last article, so no pressure at all! “It has to be an epic comeback,” I told myself as one month flew into another. There were many watch candidates with unusual stories, but getting back to writing became harder and harder each week. As it usually goes, that […] Visit Retrospective: My One-Of-One Pragotron × UDC Porsche 911 SC Coffee Timer to read the full article.

Insight: Bidirectional versus Unidirectional Winding SJX Watches
Jul 15, 2026

Insight: Bidirectional versus Unidirectional Winding

One of the quieter debates still ongoing in the horological world revolves around the difference in winding efficiency between unidirectional and bidirectional winding mechanisms. There are two schools of thought on the subject: some watchmakers remain convinced that a bidirectional winding mechanism is the clear winner in terms of efficiency, while a second group claims there are no real performance gains over simpler unidirectional winding mechanisms. Harvesting energy The basic idea behind automatic watches is to harvest energy from the wearer’s natural arm movements to wind the mainspring. The rotor is an unbalanced mass (its axis of rotation doesn’t coincide with its center of mass) that is subject to both gravity and the inertial forces exerted by the wearer. As the watch moves through different positions, the rotor spins in unpredictable bursts, generating substantial kinetic energy. A winding mechanism then turns the fast revolutions of the rotor into slower but more torque-heavy turns that wind the mainspring. Common transmission ratios cited by horological textbooks range between 1:110 and 1:180 — meaning that the barrel click wheel only makes one turn for every 110 to 180 turns of the rotor. In short, the winding mechanism transforms the erratic kinetic energy of the rotor into potential elastic energy, stored inside the mainspring’s coils. A short history Much like any sub-genre of horology, the history of automatic winding is lengthy and nuanced. This ...

Swatch Asks the Importance Questions: Introducing the What If…Jelly? Collection Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Jul 14, 2026

Swatch Asks the Importance Questions: Introducing the What If…Jelly? Collection

This was supposed to be the summer of the Royal Pop. Still the biggest cultural moment for watches of the year, the Royal Pop launch did not exactly go as anyone anticipated, and it created perhaps the wrong kind of crossover moment for all involved. I’ve come to think that the product itself, a colorful pocket watch sharing a silhouette with the Royal Oak, is a lot of fun and a genuinely good and smart idea, but the rollout was so epically poor it will take a long time for the sour taste in all of our mouths to be washed away.  I’m not quite sure what the current availability of Royal Pops actually is in the various Swatch boutiques that are designated to sell them. I’ve seen exactly one in the wild, at Windup Chicago over the weekend, worn on the wrist of an attendee on an aftermarket strap of some kind. It’s safe to say, though, that it has not yet caught on as a Labubu-like sensation the way that Audemars Piguet and Swatch likely hoped that it would.  So, like Swatch themselves, I’m forced to ask “What if…?” What if the Royal Pop had been earmarked for a summer 2027 release instead, and that this year’s big launch was actually the one that came across the transom last week? The new “What If…Jelly?” is one of my favorite types of Swatch releases: those that remind us that what the brand does best are not the intra-group collabs like the MoonSwatch or big hype pieces like the Royal Pop, but the colorful, purely original designs that could only b...

Hands-On: The Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni 'Brunito Steel' Hodinkee
Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni Brunito Jul 14, 2026

Hands-On: The Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni 'Brunito Steel'

It has been a long time since a Panerai has made it onto the list of my favorite watches from a Watches and Wonders showing, but there's one particular model that many of my other colleagues and I have continued to talk about since we first got a glimpse of it in April. I'm talking about the Luminor 8 Giorni, reference PAM01733, in a uniquely finished steel case that Panerai is calling "Brunito steel." Put crudely, this Brunito steel case feels like the distressed-jeans equivalent of the Luminor collection. The large 44mm steel case gets a layer of black PVD treatment, but the final effect is then accomplished through a brushing process by hand. The tendency of black PVD coatings to eventually wear out is an advantage here, as the different monochromatic hues ranging between the bright silver of the base steel and the dark black PVD coating now give the case a look of distressed metal aged over time. The finishing is throughout the entire case, from the inside of the lugs to the caseback and the distinctive crown guard that has become an iconic design element of the Luminor silhouette. Yes, even the strap buckle achieves the same treatment.  The handwork also means that each watch is unique, with subtle differences in brushing and fading. I've only seen one in person, so I can't tell you just how different one might be from the next. Though the main draw to this model is the aesthetic, this Luminor's dive watch heritage is not just for show, as it maintains a proper 300-m...

Watch Spotting: The Wild Watches Of World Cup 2026 Hodinkee
Patek Philippe 5905R Getty Images Unsurprisingly Jul 14, 2026

Watch Spotting: The Wild Watches Of World Cup 2026

Watch Spotting sports is hard. Unless you're trawling through Instagram accounts and wire photo feeds looking, you're not going to see a lot of watches at the World Cup. FIFA rules prohibit jewelry on the field during play. But then again, any footballer worth their salt has tens of millions of Instagram followers, so it's easier to see what they're wearing during the tournament. Erling Haaland of Norway, a Breitling ambassador, of course, was wearing his Chronomat B01 Erling Haaland Limited Edition. Getty Images. Like tens of millions of others, I've been drawn in by the World Cup. It's been massively exciting, especially this year. And through it all, yes, I've been glancing at the wrists. My first Watch Spotting during the World Cup came while watching the match between Türkiye and the US at a small-town bar in Wisconsin (where it just so happened that a lot of the bar staff were from Türkiye, so shout out to Bayside in Fish Creek and the team, Omer, Ruki, and the rest). But the first thing I noticed was that the Turkish team's Italian manager, Vincenzo Montella, was wearing a Patek 5905R. After cruising Getty, I also saw that, like any good Italian, he owns a Nautilus and a Daytona. So down the rabbit hole I went. Türkiye's manager, Vincenzo Montella, flashing his Patek Philippe 5905R. Getty Images. Unsurprisingly, the teams that have stuck around the longest give us the most chances to see some different watches. There's Kylian Mbappé, a Hublot ambassador, whose l...

The Ice-Cold Anti-Summer Watch: Hands-On With The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium Fratello
Straum Jul 14, 2026

The Ice-Cold Anti-Summer Watch: Hands-On With The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium

The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium adds a new dial treatment to the brand’s Jan Mayen platform. Its white perimeter gradually gives way to bright silver at the center, creating what Straum calls a reverse fumé. The result is a dial that appears to be caught right as it freezes from the outside in. This is […] Visit The Ice-Cold Anti-Summer Watch: Hands-On With The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Watches, Brands, And Styles We Like But Would Probably Never Buy Fratello
Jul 14, 2026

Fratello On Air: Watches, Brands, And Styles We Like But Would Probably Never Buy

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss watch brands, models, and styles that we like but would probably never buy. To be clear, this episode isn’t about picking on anyone or anything. Instead, there are other reasons these pieces aren’t on our wrists and may never be. This podcast player […] Visit Fratello On Air: Watches, Brands, And Styles We Like But Would Probably Never Buy to read the full article.

First Look - The new Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition, Developed with the French Navy Monochrome
Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Jul 14, 2026

First Look - The new Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition, Developed with the French Navy

Yema seems to be focused on combining its historic dive watch designs with more sophisticated mechanics, especially since the arrival of the manufacture CMM.20 micro-rotor calibre. Following the Navygraf Slim CMM.20 and the Navygraf Pearl CMM.20, the French brand now introduces a more specialised interpretation of its vintage-inspired diver. Made together with the French Marine […]

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian is Volcanic Class SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian Jul 14, 2026

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian is Volcanic Class

Amongst Cartier’s crowd favourites launched this year is a new take on its elegant aviator’s watch, now upgraded with a mesh-link bracelet. The standout is the Santos-Dumont LM Obsidian that matches the yellow gold case and bracelet with a dial that is actually volcanic glass. This sticks to the classic Santos-Dumont template with a slim case containing an even slimmer Piaget movement, but the dial gives this a distinctly different feel from the conventional versions of the model. And unusually given the dial material, this is regular production. Initial thoughts Even though the original 1904 Santos was conceived as a professional’s “tool” watch of sorts, the modern-day Santos-Dumont is undoubtedly a dress watch, but one with a little flair. The form case and screws on the bezel set it apart from the average dress watch that is usually plain. This takes the design to another level with the bracelet and obsidian dial. The bracelet is a little showy since it is entirely yellow gold, but the links are fine enough that it still feels elegant. Similarly, the dial is high contrast but arguably passes as a dress watch. The case is compact and slim, so this still passes as a dress watch, one that is both ostentatious and elegant. If anything, I would have wished it was one size larger. This, along with the other variants of the Santos-Dumont on a bracelet, is in the “LM”, or “large model”, format. At under 32 mm in diameter, the case size is reminiscent of a vint...

Hands-On: the Split GMT Worn & Wound
Citizen s movement factory earlier Jul 13, 2026

Hands-On: the Split GMT

The longer I navigate my watch journey, the more I realize it’s a bit like dating. You get a press kit and metaphorically swipe left or right in a very judging-the-book-by-its-cover type of way. The aesthetics are often the first thing to draw you in and make you curious or to turn you away. In either case, as a good journalist, I’m usually compelled to read the press release and gather a bit more information, skim the profile if you will. I can fully admit aesthetics are highly subjective, but substance is vital. Still, I can’t fully assess a watch without going hands-on. Images can either disappoint or not quite do justice to a design, and the promises spelled out in specs need to be put to the test. Seeing a watch is the real make or break moment to determine if we’re a perfect match. I recently went through this dating ritual with Split watches, a London-based independent brand making its U.S. debut with a new GMT. A few things really stood out to me when I first received the announcement. The look of the watches was interesting, combining unique design elements, shapes, and colors. Reading about the vision behind the design was poetic, drawing from elements of music and nature – two of my favorite sources of inspiration. The watches are powered by the Miyota 9075 true GMT movement – calibers I’ve developed even more appreciation for after visiting Citizen’s movement factory earlier this year.  Beyond the watches themselves, I was equally impressed wit...

Hands-on - The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Date, a Truly Purposeful Three-Hour Dive Watch Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Date Jul 13, 2026

Hands-on - The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Date, a Truly Purposeful Three-Hour Dive Watch

Dive watches are, by nature, rather conservative instruments. Since the 1950s, the basics have barely changed: a robust water-resistant case, luminous hands and markers, and a rotating bezel, often undirectional, graduated over 60 minutes. Blancpain played a big part in setting up these design codes with the Fifty Fathoms during the 1950s. Seventy years later, […]

A Century Of Automatic Watch Movements With Fortis And John Harwood Fratello
Fortis Jul 13, 2026

A Century Of Automatic Watch Movements With Fortis And John Harwood

There is a particular type of movement inside almost every mechanical watch you own, and it does something so fundamental to how we experience watchmaking today that it has become entirely invisible. Of course, that is precisely the point: it winds itself. It harvests energy from your wrist as you move through your day, topping […] Visit A Century Of Automatic Watch Movements With Fortis And John Harwood to read the full article.

The Hermès Cape Cod Gets A Masculine Makeover In Titanium For The First Time Fratello
Hermes Jul 12, 2026

The Hermès Cape Cod Gets A Masculine Makeover In Titanium For The First Time

A few weeks ago, I mentioned that the Hermès H08 is one of the best summer watches available under €10k. Had I waited a week, this new titanium Cape Cod might have challenged for that spot. The Cape Cod has been part of the Hermès lineup since 1991 and celebrates its 35th anniversary this year. […] Visit The Hermès Cape Cod Gets A Masculine Makeover In Titanium For The First Time to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (38.5mm) Vs. Baltic HMS 002 Fratello
Baltic HMS 002 Good morning Jul 12, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (38.5mm) Vs. Baltic HMS 002

Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Seiko released three new models in its Presage Cocktail Time collection. With a 38.5mm diameter, they are smaller, feature a less in-your-face date window at 4:30, and come in three color options. All in all, it’s a nice new offering from Seiko at the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (38.5mm) Vs. Baltic HMS 002 to read the full article.