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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Timex 1995 Intrepid Reissue: The Affordable Sailing Watch You Didn’t Know You Needed Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex 1995 Intrepid Reissue Apr 10, 2025

Timex 1995 Intrepid Reissue: The Affordable Sailing Watch You Didn’t Know You Needed

Timex, as usual, is still on a roll, bringing back some of its best hits from the past few decades. The brand’s recent reissues-like the Marlin and Q Timex-have become cult favorites, but now, Timex is going deep into the archives for something a bit more unexpected: the 1995 Intrepid Reissue. This isn’t just any retro throwback; it’s a nod to a time when sports watches were as much about functionality as they were about style. Designed for sailing and water sports enthusiasts, the Intrepid is back with a 46mm case, a highly legible white dial, and a history that’s a little more interesting than your average watch revival.

The Entry-Level Urwerk UR-101 Gets the T-Rex Treatment SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-101 Gets Mar 19, 2025

The Entry-Level Urwerk UR-101 Gets the T-Rex Treatment

Modelled on the first-ever Urwerk wristwatch, the UR-101 T-Rex is the independent watchmaker’s latest entry-level model. Priced at CHF38,000 before taxes, or about US$43,000, the UR-101 combines the brand’s signature wandering hours display with an aged bronze case finished with a scale-like guilloche. Initial thoughts Urwerk doesn’t do vintage-inspired watches often, and when it does the result is restyled enough to make it clearly modern. This is in keeping with the brand founders’ ethos, which looks forward rather than back. That’s the case with the UR-101 T-Rex. Though it takes the same form as the vintage original, it’s recognisable as a new creation. The vintage-inspired concept is appealing, as is the sub-US$50,000 price. While I like the idea of a revival, I find the “T-Rex” pattern a bit too aggressive. A polished finish that replicates the original would have been unimaginative, but more subtle engine turning would be an interesting counterpoint to the avant-garde style of the watch. That said, since the UR-101 is a limited edition of 100 pieces, I can safely assume that new variants are planned for the future. The tab on the back releases the crown to set the time Vintage inspired The new UR-101 is Urwerk’s second historically-inspired watch after the UR-102 “Reloaded” of 2023 that was similarly based on the brand’s early creations. Like its predecessor, the UR-101 retains the form of the vintage original, but is scaled up to 41 mm wide ...

The Highly Anticipated M.A.D.2 is Here Worn & Wound
MB&F; ’s total revenue Mar 18, 2025

The Highly Anticipated M.A.D.2 is Here

The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.2 is finally here. This is, perhaps, the most inevitable release of the year. It’s like starting your series of space operas with “Episode IV,” you know that at some point V is coming (and, indeed, I-III, but we’ll save that conversation for another day). Following up one of the most discussed watches of the last few years is certainly no easy task, and the M.A.D.2 comes to market at a very different time than its predecessor, at least in terms of what’s desirable at the moment.  At this point, we all know the story: Max Büsser, in an effort to make something for his friends and collaborators who could likely never afford the high priced watches they helped him create, created a small batch of watches with an inverted rotor and an unusual time telling apparatus read from the side of the case. The M.A.D1 became a viral hit in the watch community, spawned a bunch of variants, and an improved “S” model just last year. Along the way, the M.A.D.Editions project became a brand unto itself, generating around 20% of MB&F;’s total revenue in 2024. And in the three short years since the first M.A.D.Editions watches appeared, the appetite for avant-garde and experimental designs at approachable price points has increased dramatically. In other words, M.A.D.Editions is no longer the only game in town (but they’re still the only affordable way to get a little bit of that Max DNA in a watch without spending tens of thousands of dollars, or mor...

Join Worn & Wound and Arken for a Pre-British Watchmakers’ Day Get Together in London! Worn & Wound
Feb 25, 2025

Join Worn & Wound and Arken for a Pre-British Watchmakers’ Day Get Together in London!

British Watchmakers’ Day is fast approaching! On March 8, over 40 UK based brands will exhibit in London’s Lindley Hall as part of the event in support of the The Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers. And, once again, Worn & Wound will be there. Managing Editor Zach Kazan and Media Manager Devin Pennypacker will be on hand to document all of it. They’ll be talking to brands and enthusiasts all day, and will be getting a look at many of the exclusive limited editions that for the second year in a row promise to be a highlight of the event.  If you’re in London that weekend, we hope you can join us on March 7, the night before the big event, for a get together at a London pub beginning at 6:00 PM. Hosted by Worn & Wound and Arken, this will be a fun, casual opportunity for enthusiasts and collectors to come together ahead of British Watchmakers’ Day. So join Zach, Devin, and Arken’s Kenneth Lam for drinks, light refreshments, and plenty of good watch talk. We hear that Ken might even have a sneak preview of a special watch that will be making its big debut the very next day, so don’t miss out.  Please use this link to RSVP. Space is limited, so make sure you RSVP soon, and please register separately for any guests. Details on the event location will be provided to attendees prior to the get together. We can’t wait to see you there! The post Join Worn & Wound and Arken for a Pre-British Watchmakers’ Day Get Together in London! appeared first on Worn & ...

Quench Your Thirst On The First Day Of Dry January With Two Rolex GMT-Master II “Root Beer” Models Fratello
Rolex GMT-Master II “Root Beer” Jan 1, 2025

Quench Your Thirst On The First Day Of Dry January With Two Rolex GMT-Master II “Root Beer” Models

Talk about acquired taste. Root beer sure is. Its peculiar flavor comes from the sassafras tree. I like it, but others think it tastes like rusty water. The Rolex GMT-Master (II) “Root Beer” is like that too; you either love it or don’t. I’ve always been a fan of the watch. Although I’m usually not […] Visit Quench Your Thirst On The First Day Of Dry January With Two Rolex GMT-Master II “Root Beer” Models to read the full article.

Watch Collecting Regrets? I’ve Had a Few, But Not too Few to Mention: They Include Selling too Soon and Failing to Buy Quill & Pad
Aug 10, 2024

Watch Collecting Regrets? I’ve Had a Few, But Not too Few to Mention: They Include Selling too Soon and Failing to Buy

You can like everything, but you can’t buy – or keep – everything! Inevitably, the choices involved lead at times to regrets; for GaryG, along with many of his pals, the sadness is much more often about pieces they sold too soon or failed to buy rather than pieces they were sorry about buying in the first place. Here's a story of shoulda, woulda, coulda.

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko we’ve been lusting over Aug 3, 2024

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds

Watch budgeting is a funny thing. For most collectors, it involves a significant amount of mental gymnastics as money is moved in and out of an imaginary bank. We say things like “sorry, no funds in the watch bank” when our friends are selling a watch we don’t want to buy. But when Jomashop is offering a deal on that Seiko we’ve been lusting over, funds are magically ready for immediate withdrawal. Sometimes this is because we’ve recently sold some watches and actually have a positive balance in the watch bank. But often, we buy that new Seiko on “credit” with a self-promise to liquidate the current collection to restore financial balance.

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces the Rallymaster III, Inspired by the Lawn Courts of Wimbledon Worn & Wound
Jul 5, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces the Rallymaster III, Inspired by the Lawn Courts of Wimbledon

I don’t know about you, but after seeing Challengers, I’ve been on a tennis kick lately. Having discovered the sport late in life, I’m now ravenously consuming all things tennis. So when I heard that Maurice de Mauriac has partnered with Racquet Magazine for the next iteration of their Rallymaster, I had to take a look. Like previous models, the Rallymaster III combines vintage elements with a clever eye for details, thanks to designer Carlton DeWoody’s playful touch points throughout the watch. With Wimbledon being the inspiration for this model (previous points of reference included Roland Garros and the US Open), there is a level of retro charm to this one that carries the theme throughout the watch. Most notably in this new reference, we have an olive-green dial that’s reminiscent of lawn courts and the use of 18-carat gold, giving the watch an overall elegant finish while still being playful. I’m particularly fond of the tennis ball indices and the seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, which features 20 second increments (the traditional tennis serve time). Finally, playing into British design language, DeWoody incorporates tan-colored straps to complete the ‘green over tan’ look, a favorite among British vintage and luxury car enthusiasts. Of the overall design, DeWoody says, “I aimed to bridge past and present, reinterpreting classic design with a contemporary lens. The colorful sub-dials and patterning of yachting and racing dials were the perfect insp...

Introducing: The Thought-Provoking Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Di Rosa Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Jun 25, 2024

Introducing: The Thought-Provoking Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Di Rosa

It’s not the name of the watch that sparked off wild thoughts. No, it’s the watch’s look. The dial of the Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Di Rosa shows a 12-armed character named “Ah! Ah! Ah!” Hervé Di Rosa is a French artist who loves to travel the globe “in search of the mysteries of creation […] Visit Introducing: The Thought-Provoking Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Di Rosa to read the full article.

Reviewing The New Santos De Cartier Brown Dial WatchAdvice
Cartier Brown Dial We spend Jun 21, 2024

Reviewing The New Santos De Cartier Brown Dial

We spend a week with the new Santos De Cartier Large brown dial released at this year’s Watches & Wonders and see how this timeless piece wears in the hustle and bustle of daily life. What We Love The timeless design Ingenious quick change and quick link system The slim profile on the wrist What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet The brown dial may not be to everyone’s tastes A see-through caseback would be a great addition Overall Score: 8.75/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 As far as watch releases go, there are few brands that garner global attention come the first day at Watches & Wonders. One of these is Cartier. The second biggest watch brand by sales in the world and a brand synonymous with luxury, Cartier always manages to surprise with both their “everyday” pieces, as well as their Cartier Privé, and High Jewelry collection from their Maison Mètiers d’Arts. So this year I was excited to see first hand what the Maison would bring out, and hopefully, get my hands on these as I’ve not reviewed a piece from Cartier before. One of these pieces was the Santos De Cartier Large with a 70’s vibe brown gradient dial, and being something very different to what I’m used to wearing, was keen to put it on the wrist Related Reading: Cartier Drops Their New Santos Collection Initial Thoughts I always write down my initial thoughts when first handling a new watch. It’s a great way to effectively “Judg...

Vintage Watches: The Omega CK976 With A Glorious T17 Movement Fratello
Omega CK976 Jun 9, 2024

Vintage Watches: The Omega CK976 With A Glorious T17 Movement

Today, we’ll look at a charming little Omega CK976. It’s a lovely watch on the outside, but the inner workings are just as notable if not more so. This tank from 1939 is equipped with the caliber T17, a movement worthy of a place in anyone’s vintage collection. When considering vintage Omega watches and their […] Visit Vintage Watches: The Omega CK976 With A Glorious T17 Movement to read the full article.

Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities Fratello
HYT May 27, 2024

Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities

One of the biggest recent watch surprises happened the day before Watches and Wonders 2024. Impressively, the watches even captivated all four of the Fratello team members who were there. Normally, a watch release provokes much debate among us. However, the enthusiasm for the four different HYT T1 watches presented on the banks of Lake […] Visit Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities to read the full article.

Vertex Commemorates D-Day with the M36 Worn & Wound
Casio n May 20, 2024

Vertex Commemorates D-Day with the M36

This coming June 6 marks the 80th anniversary of D-Day. Vertex, the UK based watch brand headed by Don Cochrane, supplied 1,776 watches to British forces on D-Day, and to commemorate the occasion the brand has released a new reference. The M36 feels very much like a watch that Vertex could have produced at any time, but it makes particular sense in the context of the D-Day anniversary. It’s impossible to look at a watch in this style (and these proportions) from a brand with the history of Vertex and not think about the past.  The M36 was conceived as a watch that would borrow significantly from vintage military issued timepieces. To a certain extent, all Vertex watches do this. It’s in the brand’s DNA and is inescapable in the watches they make. But the M36 goes a few steps further. The case, for one, is a compact 36mm in size, which is true to the vintage watches that Vertex would have supplied, and makes the new watch a solid option for virtually anyone today. The sapphire crystal is box shaped as opposed to domed, which gives it an additional layer of vintage charm, and the straightforward dial layout with large Arabic numerals and a railroad minutes track are right in line with WWII era watches.  The watch runs on a workhorse automatic Sellita caliber and is equipped with an anti-magnetic Nivarox hairspring. The crown screws down, and provides 100 meters of water resistance. There’s also plenty of molded X1 Super-LumiNova on the dial, which if it glows anyth...

Jumping Hours With The Monsieur De Chanel Superleggera Intense Black And Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Fratello
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Apr 22, 2024

Jumping Hours With The Monsieur De Chanel Superleggera Intense Black And Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25

You’ve probably seen all the Watches and Wonders 2024 recap articles and read how this year’s releases weren’t the most exciting ones. But, as I’ve already stated in my “favorites” article, that certainly doesn’t mean there weren’t any releases worth mentioning. Today, I’d like to highlight two watches we haven’t yet covered here on Fratello. […] Visit Jumping Hours With The Monsieur De Chanel Superleggera Intense Black And Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 to read the full article.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph Ti49, an Impressive Lightweight Take on the Integrated Bracelet Chrono Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Mar 19, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph Ti49, an Impressive Lightweight Take on the Integrated Bracelet Chrono

Don’t look now, but it feels like luxury watch brands are finally beginning to discover what many in the enthusiast community have known for quite some time, namely that titanium rules, and that given the proper attention, it can clean up pretty nicely and actually look quite refined. We recently saw Zenith debut their Chronomaster Sport in titanium, and it’s not really a surprise that their sportiest watch translates particularly well in the material. Now, just weeks later, Girard-Perregaux has unveiled a new Laureato Chronograph reference in titanium, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49.  While Girard-Perregaux has had other titanium Laureatos in their catalog, this is the first time the classic case profile has been presented in grade 5 titanium. That’s important, because the Laureato case is essential to understanding the watch. The chronograph case measures 42mm in diameter and is just 12mm tall, and the case is gentler and curvier than other integrated bracelet sports watches that were introduced in the same era (the Laureato was introduced in 1975). In steel, the Laureato Chronograph has an imposing heft, and you feel every ounce in that watch’s wrist presence. In titanium, the chronograph presents very differently, and has that shockingly light feeling that people who swear by titanium have always known and loved.  What’s special about this watch is that, similar to the Zenith linked above, Girard-Perregaux has paid special attention to the dial, picking a co...

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Worn & Wound
Hublot Mar 9, 2024

Arken Launches their First Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day

As an avid lover of tool watches, there aren’t many brands that have caught my attention in the last few years quite like Arken. Part of the explosion of small independent watch brands coming out of the UK, Arken has been on my mind since the release of their first watch, the Instrumentum, in 2021. The Instrumentum was followed up by the Alterum last year and now Arken is releasing their first-ever limited edition; a new variant of the Alterum inspired by the Year of the Dragon - a popular source of inspiration over the last few months with everyone from Hublot to JLC getting in on the action. In technical terms, the Alterum Year of the Dragon is the same watch we were introduced to last year, and which is now starting to pop up on people’s wrists as delivery gets underway. The Year of the Dragon comes in the same 200m water-resistant 40mm grade 2 titanium case and is equipped with the same modified Miyota 9015 movement as the standard production variant (all of which you can read more about in Thomas Calara’s post introducing the watch back in June). The dial of the Year of the Dragon is where the differences between this limited edition and the standard model start to show themselves. The Year of the Dragon opts to replace the frosted black and anthracite dials of the standard release with a more exciting deep red, three-dimensional, textured, “blasted dragon scale” motif. I’ve never seen a dial quite like this before, and while the name alone would be enou...

Perpetually Yours: A Leap Day Guide to our Favorite QPs Worn & Wound
Feb 29, 2024

Perpetually Yours: A Leap Day Guide to our Favorite QPs

Once again, Leap Day is upon us. This is an important day for watch lovers, particularly those of us who admire complicated watches, as it gives those lucky enough to own a perpetual calendar an opportunity to observe them doing the thing they’re meant to do. Unlike the vast majority of watches with any kind of calendar complication, a perpetual calendar has already identified 2024 as a leap year, and will summarily display the first day of March without the need to advance the date. This, of course, is quite a mechanical feat, and one that only comes every four years, so it’s absolutely worth celebrating an event that is as rare as the Summer Olympics, a United States presidential election, and a new Bad Boys movie, all of which, for better or worse, we’re getting this year.  This Leap Day, we celebrate the perpetual calendar by selecting a few of our absolute favorites. Our selections below represent many different approaches to the perpetual, from rigorously simple to intentionally complex, formal to sporty, and many places in between. The perpetual calendar might not be the most accessible of complications, but we can still appreciate them, particularly when they’re having their big, quadrennial moment.  Zach Weiss  I feel very strongly about perpetual calendars. I fawn over them. I look them up late at night when I can’t sleep and drool about the possibilities of knowing not just the day, or the date, or the month, or the phase of the moon, but knowing al...

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part III – What We Value in Watches Worn & Wound
Nov 6, 2023

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part III – What We Value in Watches

In previous installments of “Selling Points,” contributor Nathan Schultz has examined the features of a watch that supposedly add value but aren’t necessarily needed, and watch related “deal breakers” that are widely expected in higher priced watches, but have little appeal to value conscious collectors. Here, in the third volume of the series, we open the topic up the wider roster of Worn & Wound contributors by asking what seems like a simple question: What do you value in a watch? Nathan Schultz Years ago, someone in a forum posed the following question: what do you look for in a watch? It’s a simple question, and my answer was equally straightforward. I quickly chimed in that I sought out the best spec per dollar ratio. Afterall, that was how I approached my entire life. I wanted the most reliable car for a reasonable monthly payment and the tastiest pizza on a Friday night without breaking the bank. It only made sense I would apply the same formula to watch collecting. Other responses did not share the same frugal sentiment. They focused on things like provenance and design- things I could have cared less about at the time. Looking back at that time when a sub $300 NH35 powered diver was all I needed, my simplified answer represented a preliminary phase in my horological journey. Since then, my opinions (some unpopular, if you have read the first two articles in this series) have become more complex. I still appreciate watches that offer capable specs for ...