Deployant
New: Singer Reimagined Caballero – new proprietary movement
Singer reimagined releases its first proprietary movement: the Calibre-4 Solotempo in a new lineup which they call Caballero.
Results for Caliber 3861
987 articles · 95 videos found · page 27 of 37
Deployant
Monochrome
First Look – The Stunning, Contemporary Chopard L.U.C Quattro – Mark IV in Ice Blue & Platinum
When Chopard launched the L.U.C Quattro in 2000, powered by the ultra-thin, manually wound Calibre 98.01-L, it announced itself as a serious force in the world of haute horlogerie. Calibre 98.01-L was the second movement developed entirely in-house by the Chopard Manufacture, following the groundbreaking Calibre 96.01-L, an innovative microrotor design created in collaboration with […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph, A Warm New Face for Minerva’s Reversed Marvel
Minerva, founded as H. & C. Robert in 1858 in the Swiss Jura village of Villeret and renamed Minerva SA in 1929, remains one of the great guardians of traditional chronograph craftsmanship. Its first chronograph movement, the Calibre 19-9, debuted in 1908, and for over 165 years, its workshops have produced some of the finest […]
Time+Tide
The most underrated Zenith watches that show the brand’s watchmaking might and design diversity
From the Academy to the Calibre 135...The post The most underrated Zenith watches that show the brand’s watchmaking might and design diversity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – A More Compact 40mm Version of the Norqain Independence Skeleton
Norqain, the young, independent Swiss brand, produces contemporary, adventure-oriented watches. Many of the brand’s most popular models belong to the Independence collection, including the high-tech carbon fibre Wild One, conceived in collaboration with Jean-Claude Biver, the Skeleton Flyback Chrono featuring a proprietary manufacture calibre, and Norqain’s first skeletonised model. In line with current market watch […]
WatchAdvice
World’s First Rolex Land-Dweller Review In The Wild!
In a world first (correct me if I’m wrong), we have got our hands on the new Rolex Land-Dweller and road tested it for a week out in the wild! What We Love The movement innovation in the new Calibre 7135 The look and finish of the Flat Jubilee is stunning Comfort on the wrist is hard to fault What We Don’t Lack of microadjust on the bracelet due to the clasp design Accessibility to buy will be a challenge Style cues may not be to everyone’s taste Overall Rating: 9.125/10 Value For Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 10/10 What is now becoming something of a common and unfortunate issue, the new Rolex releases were leaked about a week out from Watches & Wonders this year. We had seen teasers obviously on Rolex’s social media, but then someone leaked the images, and this got the watch world buzzing. Unfortunately, these images would never have done the new Rolex models any justice whatsoever, thanks to their poor quality. However, it gave us enough to see what the new models were, and for me, piqued my curiosity as to what they would look like in person. The one thing I’ve learned with the Rolex is, and this is coming from someone who owns several pieces and actually loves the brand, you can never judge a book by its cover with them. And this year was certainly no different – the turquoise dial Daytona is actually quite stunning in the metal and on the wrist, the rose gold GMT with the Tiger Iron dial is now one of those pieces I have a...
Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Review
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” was released back in 2023 and has since been regarded as one of the finest vintage reinterpretations on the market. This mostly for two reasons, the first simply being that it was not a limited edition unlike every iteration dating back to when the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Second, they nailed the case proportions as well as the irresistibly charming domed sapphire crystal aka ‘Glassbox’. The original Heuer Carrera was the debuted back in 1963 as the brainchild of none other than Jack Heuer. Since then TAG Heuer has become one of the quintessential “chronograph brands” out there but it was the 2023 release of the Carrera Chronograph“Glassbox” that felt like a full-circle moment. The vintage-inspired design and 39mm case size coupled with contemporary finishing and manufacturing capabilities makes for one of the best chronographs on the market. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" Case The case size here is near-universally praised due to the nice and wearable proportions that balance that old school chronograph aesthetic with modern finishing techniques. Measuring 39mm wide and 13.86 mm thick with a 45.7mm lug-to-lug measurement (with 100 m of water resistance), the Glassbox is a compact package that makes a pretty strong statement. Sure, the original was 36mm and while I believe a re-edition in that case size would be a hit amongst a small enthusiast base (pe...
Monochrome
First Look – The Zenith Chronomaster Original Dons a Handsome Blue Dial
The year 1969 marked a before and after in watchmaking with the release of the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Zenith’s El Primero calibre, a high-frequency integrated chronograph, was the first to cross the finish line. Initially used to power three models, the round A386, with its tri-colour counters, became the undisputed brand icon. In […]
SJX Watches
Omega’s Small-But-Mighty Movement in the Aqua Terra 30 mm
Omega’s latest Aqua Terra is a competent women’s watch with a brand-new calibre that is both compact and proficient. Equipped with the new cal. 8750/8751, the Aqua Terra 150M 30 mm launches with a healthy mix of metal variations and dials across 12 models that will surely expand in time. Initial Thoughts Despite scarce coverage in watch media, watches made for, and marketed to women are very important to the industry. And, women have rewarded brands that put in the effort with enormous success. The Lady-Datejust, for instance, is often rumored to be Rolex’s highest volume model. While Omega offered an Aqua Terra 30 mm in the past, the Constellation has arguably the brand’s champion in the segment for the last few years. The new Aqua Terra 30 mm might look similar to its predecessor, but it stands out for the new cal. 8750/8751 that is a Master Chronometer-certified movement. Building a movement that can consistently meet Master Chronometer standards, while being small and thin, is an achievement on its own. All else being equal, larger movements perform better than smaller ones; the difference is significant enough that the ISO 3159 chronometer standard that form the COSC testing standards has less stringent requirements for movements 20 mm and under. Options Omega’s watches are often, and fairly, criticized for being unnecessarily thick, but that isn’t the case here, thanks in part to the new caliber. All steel and two-tone models are 10.6 mm tall (10.7 mm for...
Time+Tide
The Breitling Top Time B31 could be the top dog under US$6,000
The new Breitling Top Time B31 distills the model down to time and date essentials, with colourful contrast dials and a new 78-hour calibre.The post The Breitling Top Time B31 could be the top dog under US$6,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s Temporis is a Unique Double Complication
Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin’s programme dedicated to one-off and special-order watches. The latest to emerge from the workshop is the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, a large, complicated watch with an intricate calibre and an unusually modern, clear sapphire dial. The look is more contemporary than usual for a Les Cabinotiers grand complication, thanks to both the sapphire dial with its off-centre displays and a monochromatic grey finish on the movement. An evolution (and stylistic upgrade) of the solid-dial Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds from 2022, the Temporis is underpinned by a base movement that features a minute repeater and tourbillon; on top sits a traditionally constructed split-seconds chronograph mechanism that is paired with the calibre in an unconventional manner. The layers inside the cal. 2757 S of the Temporis Initial thoughts Twenty twenty-five has been good for Vacheron Constantin in terms of complicated watches – the brand started the year with the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and has followed up with the Temporis. In comparison to the Solaria with 41 functions and a price tag in the mid-millions, the Temporis is simple and affordable, but still impressive. Though it is largely identical in terms of the movement to the 2022 model with a solid dial, the Temporis offers a lot more visually with its open dial. Though the look is modern – compare this to the baroque B...
WatchAdvice
The New Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Collection Time Only Review
Breitling has updated their SuperOcean Heritage Collection, and with a range of seemingly small but big changes, we’ve taken the time-only models and put them to the test! What We Love The case refinements across the range The small nods to the vintage 1957 model The new in-house B31 Calibre What We Don’t The overlapping of the rubber strap under the wrist Fewer choices when it comes to the colour combinations in rose gold The domed crystal can reflect the light on the darker dials a little Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Earlier this month, Breitling released the new look SuperOcean Heritage Collection with a suite of changes that, while looking like small incremental changes, all added up to noticeable differences across the entire range. We had a first look at these upon release, and were fortunate enough to get our hands on them for some time prior, so the whole team was able to see the changes themselves in person, and what they meant for the wearer of the new models. Sam and I flipped a coin to see who would review the time only and who would review the new chronographs. This was a coin toss with no loser, as each was a good a choice as any, and I scored the time only. So stay tuned for Sam’s review of the Chronograph in a few weeks time. Breitling’s New SuperOcean Heritage Collection Kicks Up A Swell! Initial Thoughts I’ve always said, press photos and renders don’t always do the wat...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Maen Manhattan 37mm Ultra-Thin, Smaller but with a Big Impact
Maen, a relatively young brand from Sweden with Dutch roots, has combined two of its popular Manhattan models into a compact and sleek 37mm integrated sports watch that highlights the best of both collections. Based on consumer demand, the current Manhattan 37mm automatic has been slimmed down with an ultra-thin case and hand-wound calibre like […]
Monochrome
Introducing – Omega Launches The Seamaster Aqua Terra 30mm Collection with New Master Chronometer Movements
Omega releases a new sub-collection of its Seamaster Aqua Terra in 30mm cases with metal bracelets spread across 12 references. A classic all-rounder, the 30mm Aqua Terra models are powered by two new in-house automatic movements. Designed to fit the smaller case size, calibre 8750 and 8751 are the smallest and slimmest co-axial Master Chronometers […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic, now Available in Compact 38mm Cases
One of the earliest dive watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has long been one of the most emblematic models available on the market. In 2007, the classic Fifty Fathoms Automatique (ref. 5015) arrived with its large (even oversized) 45mm case and calibre 1315 – two fundamental elements of the permanent collection. And this size has […]
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A
Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive U.F.A (SLGB003) sets a new benchmark in mechanical watchmaking with an astonishing ±20 seconds per year accuracy. Wrapped in a new slimmer Evolution 9 case and finished with a dial inspired by winter in Shinshu, it’s a masterclass in subtle innovation and timeless elegance. What We Love The Calibre 9RB2 delivers an incredible +/- 20 seconds per year, redefining what is possible from a mainspring-powered mechanical movement The new 37mm case size makes the timepiece highly wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The beautifully textured dial captures Grand Seiko’s unique blend of craftsmanship and storytelling. What We Don’t While very comfortable, the standard three-link bracelet feels a little too plain for a release of this calibre. For a groundbreaking caliber, the caseback view feels a little subdued. For such a significant release, the design feels a little too in line with previous Evolution 9 models. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Grand Seiko was first established in 1960 as a sister brand to Seiko, created to combat the Swiss watchmakers and their high-end luxury timepieces. While Seiko made affordable everyday timepieces, It was Grand Seiko’s role to create unique, innovative pieces that would cater to the luxury and high-end watchmaking market. Among the many different innovations and stunning dial aesthetics, one key aspect that truly makes Grand S...
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only
Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription
Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Surprisingly Attainable Horage Autark Tourbillon
We’ve covered independent Swiss watchmaker Horage many times in the past few years, including several of its in-house movements from automatics to micro-rotors to tourbillons. The latest Autark Tourbillon separates itself as it’s truly a rare feat in watchmaking, combining a micro-rotor and tourbillon within the in-house K-TMR calibre. It’s all wrapped in Grade 5 […]
Time+Tide
Naoya Hida releases the Type 6A perpetual calendar, rivalling equivalent Patek Philippe models (at least in price)
Naoya Hida presents their most complicated watch yet, powered by a Habring and Dubois-Dépraz perpetual calendar calibre.The post Naoya Hida releases the Type 6A perpetual calendar, rivalling equivalent Patek Philippe models (at least in price) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold
The recently resurrected Daniel Roth brand has added a second regular production model to its catalogue, the Extra Plat Rose Gold. It’s powered by the same DR002 movement found in the Extra Plat Souscription, a 20-piece limited edition in yellow gold with a solid case back, now with a sapphire case back to show off the handsome, shaped calibre inside. Image – Daniel Roth Initial Thoughts It’s no secret that Louis Vuitton has been making inroads into independent watchmaking, through collaborations with leading independents and the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Louis Vuitton has taken a more direct approach by reviving one of the first modern independents, and it seems to have paid off. Ironically, despite being the product of a luxury giant, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat is comparable to many offerings from niche makers, which can be seen as praise of the former or reproval of the latter. Image – Daniel Roth In another contradiction, the Extra Plat’s 7.7 mm height isn’t exactly extra-flat by the standards of a two-hand, manually wound dress watch. For comparison, the original Extra Plat Automatic from 1990 was 6.7 mm thick, and the manual version was only 6 mm. This can be attributed to the new movement, which is thicker than those in historical Extra Plat models, but constructed and finished to a much higher standard, while also being an in-house calibre (the originals were powered by Frederic Piguet). Image – Daniel Roth The new regular production has more mainst...
Fratello
Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
What happens when you take the 2755 QP movement out of the 2017 Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 (ref. 80172/000R-B406), update the design so it caters to an audience with a more contemporary taste, and put it in the sportiest of watch designs available? You get the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface. This limited-production watch is […] Visit Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The S3 Deadbeat Seconds becomes Garrick’s most expensive watch, but is it worth it?
A hand-wound calibre on full display, with plenty of hand-finishing... But does the Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds justify its price?The post The S3 Deadbeat Seconds becomes Garrick’s most expensive watch, but is it worth it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Yema Skin Diver CMM.20
Yema continues to refine its catalogue by raising the bar on quality and craftsmanship, unveiling fresh iterations of one of its most iconic models. Still drawing inspiration from the original 1960s diver series, the French watchmaker introduces new versions of the Superman Skin Diver, now equipped with its proprietary CMM.20 micro-rotor calibre, in a move […]
Monochrome
First Look – Vacheron Constantin Unveils the New Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
Vacheron Constantin celebrates its grand 270th anniversary this year. For a brand with such an illustrious and storied past, an anniversary of this calibre means rolling out the big guns. To commemorate the date, Vacheron Constantin unveils a new high-end manufacture calibre combining a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. Limited to 127 pieces and presented […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Sellita-Powered Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with Colourful Dials
Alongside the green and terracotta Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 housed in a 40mm case with a sleek, polished bezel instead of the classic coin-edge design, Oris also introduces a trio of new, simpler versions of its emblematic watch. And while these lack the high-performance Calibre 403 movement and replace it with a Sellita […]
Monochrome
First Look – An Upgraded Movement and Design for the Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar
Released in 2016 with a price tag of EUR 8,000, Frederique Constant’s Perpetual Calendar Manufacture was one of the most affordable QPs on the market. Powered by FC’s in-house calibre FC-775, the perpetual calendar appeared in the Slimline family and the sportier Highlife collection. For Watches & Wonders 2025, the perpetual calendar returns in a […]
Monochrome
First Look – Chopard Celebrates 25 Years of the Quattro with a Refreshed & Compact L.U.C Quattro
The ultra-thin, 3.7mm Calibre 98.01-L, certified by both the Poinçon de Genève and COSC, was the second developed by the Chopard manufacture and followed the groundbreaking Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L, which was created in collaboration with Michel Parmigiani and laid the foundation for future movement development. The manually wound 98.01-L featured Chopard’s so-called Quattro technology: a […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Updated Oris Big Crown Pointer Date In New Sizes And Colors
The Big Crown Pointer Date is a true staple in Oris’s history. It has been in the brand’s collection continuously since 1938. In 2021, Oris introduced a new and refined version of its beloved Big Crown Pointer Date. This 38mm watch featured the impressive Oris Calibre 403, a smooth bezel, and a cleaner dial layout. […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Oris Big Crown Pointer Date In New Sizes And Colors to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Day 5328G
Patek Philippe introduces a new and powerful manual-winding calibre for the equally new Calatrava 8 Day Ref. 5328G. As you have gleaned from the name, the new twin barrel movement delivers an impressive 192-hour or 8-day power reserve. While the watch is officially a Calatrava, it shares traits with the more casual aesthetic of the […]