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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe worldtime ref 2523 Yesterday

Hands On: Victor Kullberg Tourbillon Pocket Chronometer

Phillips’s upcoming sale The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII is packed with spectacular watches, including some already well known to collectors like the extra complicated La Royale by Louis Audemars, an unsual Patek Philippe worldtime ref. 2523, and the Golay Fils & Stahl astronomical watch. But among the finest is a simple watch that tracks only the time and state of wind, yet is comprised of several hundred parts: Victor Kullberg No 6583. Behind those three hands is a one-minute tourbillon equipped with an Earnshaw detent escapement, a massive free-sprung compensation balance, anti-magnetic helical balance spring and reverse chain and fusee, making it one of the most elaborate three-hand watches imaginable. Even at its high estimate of US$102,000, this pocket chronometer amounts to something of a steal, especially in an auction where multiple steel sports watches carry much greater estimates. The cult of the chronometer Swiss and English horologists disagreed on a great many things, from the ideal shape and material of escape wheels to the definition of a chronometer. To the Swiss, the title of chronometer was bestowed based on merit as a timekeeper. Any watch could be one if it kept good time, especially with a trusted, independent attestation of its accuracy. Watches submitted to observatory trials — or tested according to the ISO 3159:2009 standard today — are chronometers by this reckoning. England was dominated by the cult of the [marine] chronometer, unsurprisin...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th-Anniversary Watches 4 days ago

Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th-Anniversary Watches

A surprise party is probably the last thing anyone turning 50 would want. Those celebrating five decades would rather be surrounded by loved ones who understand their wishes and enjoy a good dinner with a nice selection of wines. That’s likely what Patek Philippe had in mind when the iconic Nautilus reached its 50th anniversary. […] Visit Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th-Anniversary Watches to read the full article.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Audemars Piguet Retailer’s Own Timepieces It 5 days ago

The Gübelin Ellipse: The Often Forgotten Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet Retailer’s Own Timepieces

It took a few years of being a watch enthusiast before I came across my first double-signed watch dial. I remember it was a Universal Geneve White Shadow with the word “Türler” written near the six o’clock position. Having never seen one before, I typed in a quick Google search to see what this had meant and, hours of research later, I came out a new watch collector––one with an eye and appreciation for double-signed watches. Up there with the likes of Cartier, Türler, Tiffany and Co., Mesiter, Trucchi, and other renowned jewelry retailers, Gübelin is a name any collector will frequently stumble upon when shopping for watches of this variety. When I came across this example of a solely Gübelin-branded timepiece, I knew I had to pick it up (especially for the >$100 price tag). This sent me down a rabbit hole of research similar to what the double-signed watches did. I wanted to understand the Gübelin brand and what it did for the world of horology, and I find it only necessary to share what I was able to find with all of you. Brief History of Gübelin Taking roots in 1854, Gübelin started in Lucerne as an independently run watch shop specializing in repairs and sales. The owner and lead watchmaker, Mauritz Breitschmid, would later agree to a partnership deal with young apprentice (and later son-in-law) Eduard Jakob Gübelin, sparking what would become decades of successful international business. As time went on, Gübelin became a powerhouse of the jewelry m...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Jaeger-LeCoultre teams up Apr 28, 2026

Jaeger-LeCoultre teams up with Marc Newson again for a trio of masterpieces

Three clocks that each bring a new concept and idea to the table from the mind of Marc Newson and the workshop of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Tudor Monarch Apr 27, 2026

Hands-on – The Tudor Monarch, an Unexpected yet Successful Return

This year was a big one for the Rolex group, as the Crown was celebrating the 100th anniversary of its emblematic Oyster case, while Tudor turned 100 years, being founded in 1926. With this in mind, expectations were high, and some predicted fireworks of novelties, huge innovations, entirely new collections all around… And the celebrations […]

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Otsuka Lotec Apr 24, 2026

Hands-on – The Otsuka Lotec No.8 Refines Jiro Katayama’s Industrial Language

We wouldn’t go as far as to say that there’s something fundamentally different about the way Jiro Katayama approaches watchmaking. After all, industrial design, be it cars, instruments, or machinery, has inspired and defined quite a few independents. Still, most start from horology and branch outward, yet the mind behind Otsuka Lotec comes directly from […]

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Citizen Celebrating 50 Years Apr 21, 2026

Photo Report: A Week In Japan With Citizen Celebrating 50 Years Of Eco-Drive

We're not paying enough attention to Citizen. Or, at least, I haven't been. Sure, the occasional Aqualand or Promaster might sneak through my net, but if I'm being totally honest, going into my week spent exploring Japan with Citizen in celebration of 50 years of Eco-Drive, Citizen is not a brand I'd ever felt much urgency to think about. It seemed too ubiquitous, too familiar, to register as something enthusiasts were meant to seriously consider. That perception is probably common for a reason. For plenty of people, Eco-Drive was the watch you first saw in a mall case, on a relative's wrist, or that was explained to you by someone excited about it being powered by the sun. Citizen has sold Eco-Drive watches on an enormous scale, and that kind of visibility can sometimes obscure what's actually interesting about them.  Eco-Drive's popularity is substantial. Since its introduction in 1976, Citizen estimates that the technology has prevented the use of roughly 100 million watch batteries. Stacked end to end, that's the equivalent of about 3,600 Mount Everests. But it turns out that achievement only scratches the surface. What I hadn't appreciated is that ubiquity and serious watchmaking aren't mutually exclusive. Beneath the scale and familiarity is a product backed by a half-century of innovation and, what surprised me most, a watch that still involves a meaningful amount of hand assembly. The original Eco-Drive watch, the Citizen Crystron Solar Cell, from 1976. A "reflect...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Chopard L.U.C Chopard Strike One Apr 20, 2026

Introducing: The New Chopard L.U.C. Chopard Strike One In Titanium (Live Pics)

What We Know Among the more attractive releases from Watches and Wonders this year is the new Chopard L.U.C. Strike One Titanium, now with a beautiful new dial treatment. In ethical 18k rose gold with salmon-colored galvanic treatment, with a hand-guilloché central medallion with a honeycomb motif, the Strike One is a watch that may fly under the radar for some. Not a minute repeater, not a grande et petite sonnerie, but rather a beautiful watch that chimes once at the top of the hour (a sonnerie au passage), it's still got a very romantic quality about it. Despite being a chiming watch, Chopard has (as they usually do) minimized the size as much as possible with a 40mm by 9.86mm case in Grade 5 titanium. That light metal should help emphasize the chime's sound, with the hammer on the dial side visible through an aperture for the full experience. Even better, the gong is made of sapphire and is connected in a monobloc construction (one piece) to the dial crystal to emphasize sound transmission. The dial itself is capped by a snail-shaped chapter ring and has rhodium-plated hour markers and hands, plus anthracite-colored printed transfers. This is all powered by the L.U.C. 96.32-L. With a two-barrel construction and micro-rotor, you get 65 hours of power reserve, automatic winding, and a 4Hz beat rate, all chronometer-certified by COSC, with Poinçon de Genève-certified quality. Chopard really shows bigger brands how to do it when it comes to finishing, so this is the kin...

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D Deployant

Deployant

Patek Philippe s 7047G Apr 20, 2026

WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors These three watches were selected because each represents a different approach to high‑end mechanical construction. Grand Seiko’s SBGZ011 demonstrates the Micro Artist Studio’s work with Spring Drive and overtly hand‑finished case and dial. Patek Philippe’s 7047G is an ultra‑complicated minute repeater masquerading within the dimensions and subtlety of a simple time‑only watch. A. Lange & [...] The post WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

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T Two Broke Watch Snobs

Two Broke Watch Snobs

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Apr 17, 2026

I Can’t Get Over the New Titanium TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph

The TAG Heuer Monaco has lived somewhere in the back of my mind for years. It's one of those watches I've never owned, but could never fully shake either. Maybe it traces back to its cameo in the later seasons of Breaking Bad, or maybe it's just that unmistakable square case doing something irrational to me every time I see it. Either way, TAG Heuer just gave me a reason to think about it a lot more. The brand has announced a refreshed Monaco Chronograph in Grade 5 titanium, featuring a new in-house chronograph movement and three colorways launching this month. The post I Can’t Get Over the New Titanium TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph appeared first on Two Broke Watch Snobs.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Apr 16, 2026

First Look – The New Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points

Since the third generation of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas arrived in 2016, the Maison has expanded the collection with everything from simple three-hand models to perpetual calendars and tourbillons. Yet for a watch originally designed with travel in mind, a basic second time zone display was missing. This was addressed in 2018 with the Overseas […]

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Parmigiani Fleurier Apr 16, 2026

Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux 'Mineral Blue' Reinvents The Central-Counter Chronograph

On the back of the brand's creative GMT Rattrapante and Minute Rattrapante, the brand launches an in-house chronograph with an impressive secret.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Bremont Races Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Races to the Moon with the Space-Themed Supernova Chronograph

Because of the Artemis II launch earlier this month, the moon is all the rage again. That’s why the timing for Bremont’s Supernova Chronograph feels so auspicious: not only because it was designed with the stars in mind, but because it might actually go to the moon itself.  To promote the Supernova-which is an entirely new family, and not just a single release-Bremont is partnering with the aerospace company Astrolab, which is planning to send a FLIP (FLEX Lunar Innovation Platform) rover to the moon’s surface. In a future spacefaring reality, the Flexible Logistics & Exploration (FLEX) rover can traverse lunar and Martian terrain, delivering cargo with a 30-kg payload. That’s more than enough room to fit a Supernova, which will net Bremont as the first watch permanently placed on the moon’s surface. The Supernova Chronograph ticks the boxes of a terrestrial sports watch: with 100-meter water resistance, stainless-steel construction, and an integrated bracelet and optional rubber strap, it carries a bold presence that seems much tougher than the current lineup. The primarily brushed case, measuring 41mm and featuring smaller polished contrasts, is cushion-shaped, harkening to the midcentury enthusiasm for space exploration. The black bezel is made from ceramic and cut into ten sides.  The Supernova’s dial features contrasting triangular arrows and a geometrically aligned waffle pattern. On the main dial they’re both black, but in the subdials the triang...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux Apr 14, 2026

First Look – The New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux (Inc. Video)

Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF collection adds another notch on its belt of “hidden complications” with the launch of the Chronograph Mystérieux. Following in the footsteps of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante and the Minute Rattrapante, this third complication is a monopusher chronograph. By reimagining the chronograph in the refined, pure aesthetic language of the Tonda […]

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F Fratello

Fratello

Vacheron Constantin s […] Visit Introducing Apr 14, 2026

Introducing: Three New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Complications

Just as Stevie Wonder is the musician’s musician, Jaeger-LeCoultre is the watchmaker’s watchmaker. But what is meant by this? Well, for starters, Jaeger-LeCoultre is a prolific movement manufacturer that supplies other high-end brands. Famously, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-thin caliber 920 powered the big three ’70s sports watches - Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, AP’s Royal Oak, and Vacheron Constantin’s […] Visit Introducing: Three New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Complications to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 100th Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 100th Anniversary Edition Reference 134303

Rolex might have always been discreet, but it was and still is one of the leaders of innovation in watchmaking. Surely, some of these features were not meant to make headlines or to break records, but under their relative discretion and incremental evolution, many have changed the face of the industry and how we interact […]

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

IWC s Pilot Venturer Vertical Apr 13, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with IWC’s Pilot Venturer Vertical Drive, a New Kind of Space Watch

Space is having a huge moment right now, and if you’re at all like me, you’ve been transported to a time in your youth when you were soaking up anything space exploration related as much as the sun. Well, IWC is going to keep space at the forefront of everyone’s mind here at Watches & Wonders as they’ve just released their Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, their first watch engineered and certified for spaceflight.  I actually got to see this watch back in February while I was out in Los Angeles with IWC at Vast’s headquarters. Vast is the company building what is set to become the first commercial space station, Haven-1. And that context matters, because this isn’t just a “space-inspired” watch. The Venturer Vertical Drive was designed for actual use in orbit, and it’s already been certified for flight in partnership with Vast.  Historically, space watches have basically just been modified aviation watches, but IWC took a different approach here. Instead of adapting something that already existed, they started from a much simpler question: what does a watch actually need to do in space? The answer led to a few decisions that feel genuinely new, starting with the most obvious one - there’s no crown. From an outsider’s perspective, this feels almost like a flex (and it kinda is). But the way that IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr explained it during our live presentation was that in a zero-gravity environment, as astronauts are moving through tight spac...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

IWC s Foolproof Take Apr 13, 2026

In-Depth – The Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar ProSet, IWC’s Foolproof Take on the QP

IWC Schaffhausen has a very unique history when it comes to perpetual calendars. Naturally, this immediately brings to mind one particular figure: Kurt Klaus. His remarkable perpetual calendar module has left a mark on the history of watchmaking, notably as one of the most user-friendly systems ever created, where all adjustments can be made simply […]

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Casio n allows us Apr 10, 2026

Interview – Adrian Bosshard, CEO of Rado, About the Mastery of Ceramics and the New Integral Collection

When it comes to ceramics, Rado is the brand that comes to mind. Rado presented its first ceramic watch in 1986, just 40 years ago… This anniversary marks not only a technological breakthrough, but also the beginning of a long-standing expertise that has become a signature. This special occasion allows us to sit down with […]

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F Fratello

Fratello

Apr 8, 2026

The New Bianchet UltraFino Maserati - One Of The Better Car-Watch Collaborations I’ve Seen In A While

Honestly, I usually take car-watch collaborations with a pinch of salt. Too often, they feel like the easy and somewhat lazy option. Add a logo, pull in a color, mention “performance” a few times, and somehow, that’s meant to be a job well done. While that may be enough for the marketing side of things, […] Visit The New Bianchet UltraFino Maserati - One Of The Better Car-Watch Collaborations I’ve Seen In A While to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Hautlence Sphere Series 4 Since Apr 6, 2026

Introducing – The New Hautlence Sphere Series 4

Since its recent revival under the MELB Group (owner of Moser and Agenhor too), Hautlence has focused on unconventional time displays with mechanical animation rather than traditional indications. The Sphere, first introduced in 2022, quickly became the brand’s signature series, combining a multi-axis spherical jumping hour with a retrograde minute. The new Sphere Series 4 […]

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Apr 6, 2026

SJX Podcast: Understanding Collector Psychology

Why do watch debates get so heated, so fast - and why does no one ever change their mind? On episode 34 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon sits down with King Flum, collector and author of the ScrewDownCrown Substack, to dig into the psychology behind the arguments that define online watch communities. Drawing on research from psychologists including Jonathan Haidt and Dan Kahan, the conversation covers why our preferences form before we start thinking, why smarter collectors tend to construct more elaborate - not more objective - arguments, and why an attack on your watch can feel like an attack on you personally. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Rexhep Rexhepi Apr 5, 2026

Up Close: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback RRCHF

Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s latest creation is the first complication solely under his own name, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF). Very much embodying his defining style both in terms of aesthetics and execution, the RRCHF nonetheless illustrates the evolution of his approach to watchmaking, particularly in the subtle, fine details of the movement. With a three-register layout that brings to mind historical pocket watches, the RRCHF has a fired enamel with a modern twist in the form of sapphire counters. The movement, on the other hand, reflects Mr Rexhepi’s love of symmetry and fine decoration, while also incorporating a useful bonus in the form of an instantaneously jumping minute register. Initial thoughts After having enjoyed unparalleled success with his time-only creations – exceptionally elaborate but still three hands – Mr Rexhepi is executing a plan he has long talked about: realising his interpretation of the important complications in watchmaking. The RRCCHF is perhaps only the start of the plan, but it is a magnificent chronograph. Conceptually, it is similar to one of the great chronographs, the Lange Datograph, but sans date. While the Datograph, way back in 1999, sought to essentially replicate the intricacy of a pocket watch movement with elaborate exaggeration, the RRCHF is clearly a modern creation, yet imbued with numerous traditional and historical elements. The overall style is now familiar; it echoes the design of the Chrono...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Longines Hydroconquest Vs Apr 5, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: The New Longines Hydroconquest Vs. The Oris Aquis Date

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! We hope you have your Sunday breakfast, a cup of coffee, and an open mind at hand because we need your opinion! Today, we’ll pit the latest Longines Hydroconquest against the Oris Aquis. This, then, is a battle of sub-€2,500 dive watches. Both watches come in different […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: The New Longines Hydroconquest Vs. The Oris Aquis Date to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase Apr 4, 2026

The ABCs of Time – The Five Most Complicated Wristwatches Ever Made

When I think of an affordable complicated watch, something like the Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase comes to mind with a full calendar, chronograph, moon phase and 24-hour time (as a day/night indicator). That’s amateur level, however, when it comes to grand complications and the five most complicated watches on this list of this ABCs […]

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F Fratello

Fratello

Mar 27, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The Dennison ALD Dual Time “Shades” Dial

Emmanuel Gueit has done it again. His designs for Dennison are a hit, and now there’s a new catchy, slightly moody “tune” that will be on your mind once you’ve been exposed to it. Dennison introduces the ALD Dual Time “Shades” Dial, a nuanced and refined evolution of the brand’s Dual Time collection. The dials […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Dennison ALD Dual Time “Shades” Dial to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Nomos Club Campus Full Rose Mar 26, 2026

Introducing – The New Nomos Club Campus Full Rose and All Olive Editions

The Club Campus collection is Nomos Glashütte’s accessible, robust mechanical watches, designed with a younger audience in mind and made with the same in-house rigour as the rest of the catalogue. Since its introduction in 2017, the concept has remained, with clean Bauhaus-inspired construction, playful California-style dials, and a rotation of fresh colours. For 2026, […]

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Longines HydroConquest 300m Diver Mar 26, 2026

First Look – A New Generation of Longines HydroConquest 300m Diver, in 39mm and 42mm

Born in 2007, the HydroConquest is Longines‘ classic 300m, modern dive watch. While the Legend Diver is there to evoke the past, the HydroConquest is meant to be a contemporary offering, mixing strong diving credentials with a daily-oriented, sleek design. Until now, we’ve come to know the watch in this form here, when it benefited […]

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Mar 23, 2026

First Look – The Watch Ho & Co x Selten Jui Bauhinia in Pink and Purple Mother-of-Pearl

The original Jui came out last year as a collaboration between Hong Kong-based Watch Ho & Co(mmunity) and microbrand Selten, and it did not stay under the radar for long. It was one of those watches that quietly hit the sweet spot, with a detailed dial and a strong concept at a price that felt […]

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Mar 22, 2026

Buying Guide – The Joy of the Snap, With 5 of Today’s Finest Retrograde Watches

I’ve always been a big fan of watches that have something moving on the dial, other than the smooth and consistent running of hour, minute and second hands. Whether it’s a dial-mounted balance wheel, a tourbillon escapement or even a winding rotor, I just love to see some type of action that goes beyond pure […]

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