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Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Apr 17, 2021

Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Review

Pros: Vintage vibes anyone?8 Day power reserve – In-house Calibre P.5000Beautifully and symmetrically laid out dial Cons: Boutique only PieceFor wrists smaller than 6.5inches, the 45mm case will be too big Would have loved to see more of the P.5000 movement on the case-back Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10  The Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, released in 2019 is a tribute and recognition of their past. It is based on the first Radiomir that was released in 1936. The first Radiomir project was developed in 1936 at the request of the Command of the Submarine Group of the Italian Royal Navy, for the commandoes of the Assualt Vehicle Flotilla. This first edition was one of the first specialised diver’s watches in history.  Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The latest Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992 is not a one-to-one recreation of the original 1930’s Radiomir, but rather a vintage-inspired design from the original model using modern-day movement, materials, and aesthetics.  Design: The Radiomir 8 days is presented in a 45mm case that has quite a unique finish to it. This is the first Panerai watch (along with the Radiomir California PAM 931) to feature what the brand calls Patina steel. The steel case has been given a matte finish, all thanks to a special coating that is applied from a chemical treatment process.  Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The 45mm casing comes with detachable wire lugs...

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Five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Patek Philippe but some Apr 13, 2021

Five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders

With 40 brands presenting at Watches & Wonders, there are a lot of novelties to like – and many you may have missed. It was no secret most consumers were heavily awaiting releases from Rolex, Tudor, and Patek Philippe, but some of the most interesting watches came from brands you may not be as familiar … ContinuedThe post Five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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5 New Unisex Timepieces Presented At Watches & Wonders 2021 From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Nomos, Cartier, Chanel, And Vacheron Constantin Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Unisex watches are Apr 13, 2021

5 New Unisex Timepieces Presented At Watches & Wonders 2021 From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Nomos, Cartier, Chanel, And Vacheron Constantin

Unisex watches are the future. As watches continue the trend to smaller sizes, unisex styles are a natural progression allowing brands to market their watches to more people. Martin Green highlights 5 sensibly sized watches from Watches & Wonders 2021 that he thinks will look good on the wrists of all genders.

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 12, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar

Shortly after launching the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A in green, Patek Philippe is taking the covers off something far more serious in terms of mechanics – the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar. Clearly inspired by vintage perpetual calendar watches like the refs. 3448 and 3450 (and a dial that’s modelled on a vintage Calatrava), the ref. 5236P is ranks as amongst the most notable Patek Philippe calendar watches of recent years – both in terms of design as well as its newly-developed movement. Bearing a close resemblance to the ref. 5235 Annual Calendar – an under-appreciated watch that I regard highly – the new ref. 5236P is equipped with a built-from-scratch calendar module that’s as complicated as some entire perpetual calendar movements. And it is powered by a refined and improved version of the uncommon cal. 31-260 micro-rotor movement that was so far only found in the ref. 5235. The cal. 31-260 PS QL in the new ref. 5236 An under-dial view of the calendar mechanism with the four co-planar discs at top Initial thoughts While clearly inspired by historical designs, the ref. 5236P manages to be different – and the most compelling perpetual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. The design heritage is clear: the ref. 5236P shares the same case style as the ref. 5235 annual calendar (which I like). Admittedly the ref. 5236P perhaps a bit too big to be as elegant as Patek Philippe’s most refined cases, but the size combined with the distinctive design m...

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F.P. Journe Introduces the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Apr 12, 2021

F.P. Journe Introduces the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary

Just as the new Octa Automatique is slated to join the catalogue, F.P. Journe is marking the 20th anniversary of the model with the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary. The 99-piece limited edition harks back to the original Octa Réserve de Marche of 2001, then the brand’s entry-level watch. Like the 2001 original, the 20th anniversary edition has a grained, yellow gold dial with a silver sub-dial. And more notably, it is powered by the cal. 1300.3 – but with the bridges and main plate in rhodium-plated brass, just as it was on the original. One of the original Octa Reserve prototypes The prototype movement Initial thoughts The Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary is modestly novel, but will appeal strongly given how it revokes the first-generation model. Given the current outsized desirability of F.P. Journe’s early watches with brass movements, this will be a hot watch. Nips and tucks Though seemingly identical to the original model, the new Octa Automatique is subtly different in terms of design, and substantially different in movement construction. The displays have been rearranged and enlarged to suit the predominately larger case sizes offered by F.P. Journe today. While the original was 38 mm, the standard sizes are now 40 mm and 42 mm. As a result, the date display is slightly larger than before, while the hour numerals are also bigger. Because the date has grown in size, the power reserve display now sits marginally lower than where it used to be. A subtle detai...

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Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Apr 10, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

First revealed in 2015 inside the Harmony Grande Ultra-Thin Complication Chronograph, the cal. 3500 is a thin, split-seconds chronograph movement with a beautiful construction and novel peripheral winding mechanism. After a brief hiatus, the cal. 3500 has returned at Watches & Wonders 2021 with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Cleaner and more formal in style than the Harmony of 2015, the new Traditionnelle split-seconds boasts the same gorgeous cal. 3500, and because it’s a Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) edition, a solid platinum dial. Vacheron Constantin is on a roll with the CEP watches in 2021, with the Traditionnelle split-seconds being the second CEP edition for the year, after the elegant and quirky American 1921. Initial thoughts I was wowed by the cal. 3500 when it made its debut in the Harmony split-seconds chronograph in 2015, and found it a shame that the movement disappeared from the catalogue. The cal. 3500 deserved to be revived, and now it has been. Beautifully traditional in its construction and endowed with intricate and elegant details, the cal. 3500 is one of the finest modern-day chronograph movements. Beyond its aesthetics, it is also exceptionally thin at just 5.2 mm high, making it a feat of construction. And it is also innovative with its peripheral winding mechanism, which is admittedly not new but almost never found on classically handsome movements. The cal. 3500 The Traditionnelle sp...

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INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona Time+Tide
Tudor s Black Bay Chonograph Apr 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona

The new, all-steel Tudor Black Bay Chronograph seems to me like the sweet middle ground between two iconic watches.  I have a strained relationship with the Rolex Daytona – not that I can get one at retail – and feel it’s a bit too loud and well, Rolexy, even if I admire the quality. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H. Moser and Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye SJX Watches
H. Moser Apr 9, 2021

H. Moser and Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye

After introducing the amusingly quirky Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/ last week, H. Moser and Cie. continues with its minimalist approach to design in a more serious-minded manner with the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye. Available in two variants each with equally stunning natural stone dials – blue Falcon’s Eye and reddish-brown Ox’s Eye – the new tourbillon features rich colours and textures that are a departure from Moser’s conventional aesthetic. Both dials are variants of Tiger’s Eye, the quartz mineral best known as golden brown but also found in other colours. Being a natural material with a prominent grain, each dial, and consequently each watch, is technically unique. The Ox’s Eye variant, with a red dial and red gold case. Initial thoughts The new tourbillon is based on an existing reference, which is already a mesmerising watch. However, for those seeking something different from the usual fume dials that’s still quintessentially Moser, the Tiger’s Eye certainly fits the bill. Mineral stone dials were the in-thing in the 1970s and 1980s – often found in with ultra-thin watches on mesh bracelets – and seem to be enjoying a resurgence today. But few have implemented semiprecious stones as beautifully as Moser has here, with its signature minimalist look providing the perfect canvas for the unique natural material. I find both variants equally attractive. The Falcon’s Eye is more contemporary in its blue and white g...

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HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is the sweet upgrade of a winning formula Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Apr 8, 2021

HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is the sweet upgrade of a winning formula

When new novelties arrive, more often than not consumers are presented with familiar frameworks paired with new dial tones. IWC design language is iconic within the industry, so for me to say this new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 looks entirely different would be a bit of a stretch. But this is actually great news. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is the sweet upgrade of a winning formula appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Patek Philippe Unveils the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5990/1R in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Apr 8, 2021

Patek Philippe Unveils the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5990/1R in Rose Gold

Patek Philippe’s most coveted model line, the Nautilus was the focus of the four new launches at Watches & Wonders 2021. In addition to the ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial, the second new Nautilus for men is the Nautilus Travel-Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1R-001, a rich combination of a rose gold case with a deep blue dial. An ultra-luxe travel watch (that’s still a bit more affordable than the recent Greubel Forsey GMT Sport), the ref. 5990 has been one of the most complicated models in the Nautilus line since its introduction in 2014. First launched in stainless steel with a black dial, the ref. 5990 was an instant hit due to its good looks and practicality – and the fact that it’s a Nautilus. Initial thoughts In rose gold case with a blue dial, rendered in a shade of blue similar to that of the original ref. 5711/1A, the new ref. 5990/1R-001 is a good-looking timepiece that no doubt looks and feels like a luxury-sports watch, albeit more luxury than sports. If the steel ref. 5990/1A wasn’t not luxe enough, this ought to do the trick. Leaving aside the fact that it’s a Nautilus, hence an ultra fashionable watch that’s near impossible to get, the ref. 5990 is appealing in its intrinsic qualities, regardless of material. Despite the complications, the ref. 5990 is actually svelte, just 12.53 mm high, making it one of the slimmer flyback chronographs on the market – and it also incorporates a second time zone function. Add to that the fine finishing of...

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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Apr 8, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

Tudor’s first-ever solid-gold dive watch is making its debut at Watches & Wonders 2021. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K has a case in 18k yellow gold – in a sleek, brushed finish – along with a gold-flecked green dial. (And the Fifty-Eight 18k is launching alongside the more affordable Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 with a sterling silver case.) And despite being ultra-luxe for Tudor, the Fifty-Eight 18k is very much like the rest of Tudor’s offerings in being a value proposition, with a retail price of a bit over US$18,000 – a solid deal for a solid-gold dive watch. Initial Thoughts If there is one thing this year’s Watches & Wonders has made abundantly clear, it is that green is the new flavour of the day. The Fifty-Eight 18K is one of many green watches being launched – but doubtlessly the best value proposition – and Tudor opted for a dark, rich green that complements the case metal. Stylistically, the new Fifty-Eight models are polar opposites. The sterling-silver 925 is reserved and subtle, while the 18K clearly has greater visual impact. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K comes with two straps: alligator leather and fabric The Fifty-Eight 18k is expensive for a Tudor, with a retail price of US$18,340. That’s over US$15,000 more than last year’s navy blue version in steel. But – and this is a big but – when compared with the precious-metal dive watches made by practically every other brand, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is a bargain in relative te...

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HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must presents a statement piece with a blast of colour Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Must presents Apr 7, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must presents a statement piece with a blast of colour

Too often in watchmaking the focus is only on the technical and the very expensive. Yes, it’s critical for the watch industry to continue to innovate, but complication for its own sake serves a very limited number of ends. Sometimes I wish there were more watches that just focused on being fun, lighthearted and affordable, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must presents a statement piece with a blast of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A in Olive SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A in Olive

Perhaps the world’s most desirable wristwatch, the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A became even more sought after when was made known earlier this year that the model would be discontinued. To give it a proper send-off, the brand is now unveiling the final iteration of the Nautilus in steel, this time with an olive green dial. The base model, if it can be called that, is the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014, but the model will also be available with a diamond-set bezel as the Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001, which is notable for being the first time Patek Philippe is setting diamonds on a steel men’s watch. The Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014 And the Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001 Initial thoughts Green seems to be the new blue, and Patek Philippe is very much on board the bandwagon with its new Nautilus ref. 5711/1A – though it’s arguable Patek Philippe is helping start the trend just because the Nautilus is, well, the Nautilus. Already impossible to get, at least at the affordable retail price, the steel Nautilus will definitely be the rarest in green, out of all three variants (the others being the original blue dial, and the later white dial) and thus the most covetable. In essence, the new Nautilus is just a facelift. The case, movement, and bracelet remain the same – the only change is the olive green dial, which retains the signature, horizontal-stamped pattern. But given the impending discontinuation of the ref. 5711/1A, the mere fact there’s a new model has sent everyone into ...

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Hey, wow, what a surprise, we’re doing Watches & Wonders a little differently this year Time+Tide
Apr 7, 2021

Hey, wow, what a surprise, we’re doing Watches & Wonders a little differently this year

Anyone that’s paid more than a passing glance to Time+Tide stories, social media posts and videos over the years knows one thing. We do things a little differently over here. Especially at watch fairs. It’s not entirely by design. We are more often than not as chronically over-caffeinated as we are understaffed. Luckily for everyone, the … ContinuedThe post Hey, wow, what a surprise, we’re doing Watches & Wonders a little differently this year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Breitling we have all been waiting for – the Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper Time+Tide
Breitling we have all been Apr 6, 2021

The Breitling we have all been waiting for – the Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper

I don’t think I have ever been more excited (in recent times) by a Breitling novelty. The manufacturer has a rich heritage, undoubtedly, but in past years I have not found myself tempted to add one of their watches to my personal collection. I admire and respect their iconic designs, like the Navitimer, but never … ContinuedThe post The Breitling we have all been waiting for – the Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind collection takes flight with striking camouflage dials Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki X-Wind collection takes Apr 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind collection takes flight with striking camouflage dials

There’s no shortage of icons in the realm of pilot watches with aviation forming a key part of human achievement over the last century. There is arguably no stronger example of watches being used as indispensable tools, a notion which is increasingly romanticised as the humble watch becomes more of a style accessory over the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind collection takes flight with striking camouflage dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Personal Wristwatch Of Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti: Made By Mido And Now Up For Auction Quill & Pad
Mido Apr 5, 2021

Personal Wristwatch Of Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti: Made By Mido And Now Up For Auction

Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti was a fanatic for details with the mind of a sculptor. His visions on four wheels still grace the most elite concours d’elegance around the world. And his personal Mido watch on a bespoke gold bracelet is set to be auctioned by Stanislas Machoïr on Saturday April 17, 2021. Martin Green shares a few more details about this priceless artifact here.

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How our 27-year-old US Editor traded his way to a spectacular watch collection on a budget Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s Apr 4, 2021

How our 27-year-old US Editor traded his way to a spectacular watch collection on a budget

For a 27-year-old who isn’t the son of an oligarch, Zach Blass has amassed a serious watch collection. Highlights in his watch box include an A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down, a Rolex Submariner, a Blancpain 1185F, two Grand Seikos (the Snowflake SBGA211 and Spring SBGA413), a Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue, three Kuronos … ContinuedThe post How our 27-year-old US Editor traded his way to a spectacular watch collection on a budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Studio Underd0g makes the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g Mar 31, 2021

Studio Underd0g makes the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant

Sustainability, veganism and organic materials may be the way forward, but they’re still a foreign language to many of the larger players in the watch industry. But microbrand Studio Underd0g is displaying a more progressive mindset after making the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant skin. Just like a bespoke wristwatch, … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g makes the world’s first ever watch with a dial made from eggplant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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New And Nostalgic: Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph In Lime Gold And 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 In Bronze Half-Hunter Case Quill & Pad
Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Mar 30, 2021

New And Nostalgic: Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph In Lime Gold And 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 In Bronze Half-Hunter Case

The new Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 vibes in a decidedly cool color scheme dominated by proprietary Lime Gold, while the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 comes in a bronze case oozing with the warm look and feel of a gold-colored material of bygone days. Both look great, and Sabine Zwettler is still not sure which version she finds more appealing.

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Goldtech: Alessandro Ficarelli on the Future of Gold According to Panerai Revolution
Panerai Panerai Mar 30, 2021

Goldtech: Alessandro Ficarelli on the Future of Gold According to Panerai

Panerai, the Italian masters of undersea naval exploration, excel at the art of the well-executed dive watch, a genre typically associated with sturdy cases made from steel, titanium and the like. But Panerai’s distinctive cushions can also be found in a sophisticated array of high-tech materials, as well as one perhaps even more surprising, gold. Or rather, Goldtech.

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The Naked Watchmaker explains what it takes to make a movement a COSC-certified Chronometer? Time+Tide
Mar 29, 2021

The Naked Watchmaker explains what it takes to make a movement a COSC-certified Chronometer?

Ever since our story on the inner workings of COSC here, via an in-depth article by The Naked Watchmaker, our thirst for horological knowledge remain. More specifically, what it takes to make a movement a COSC-certified Chronometer? And what is the intrinsic value of the certification?  We caught up with Peter Speake the co-founder of … ContinuedThe post The Naked Watchmaker explains what it takes to make a movement a COSC-certified Chronometer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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