Two Broke Watch Snobs
Marathon Introduces A New Steel Navigator. But Is It Worth The Price?
A look at the new Marathon Navigator pilot's watch, featuring a fully blasted steel case with a screw-down crown and 100m of water-resistance.
11,831 articles · 59 videos found · page 272 of 397
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A look at the new Marathon Navigator pilot's watch, featuring a fully blasted steel case with a screw-down crown and 100m of water-resistance.
Time+Tide
At last year’s Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre dazzled attendees with their Stellar Odyssey collection accompanied by a mesmerising stall. This year, they calmed us back down with an exploration of their beauty and history, as exemplified by a spectacular hologram and water display at the centre of various craft demonstrations. Take a deep breath and … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on the origins of the Reverso and why the golden ratio is central to its success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Welcome to A Week In Watches, episode 45! This week, we were inundated with collaboration watches, and they are as diverse as they are interesting. From a $110 Timex, to a $26,000 Czapek, there’s a little something for everyone here. The most humble release of the week comes from Timex and our friends at Huckberry, who brought back a classic form the ’90s, the Ironman Flix watch. It’s a jolt of energy next to today’s modern ultra smart devices, and it’s a perfect workout companion even without all the bells & whistles of something like an Apple Watch. Another big theme this week (and recent years, come to think of it) is big colors and dial textures. We’ve got blue wave dials, lava red dials, and rose engine turned dials all making their way into a trio of releases from Czapek, Straum, and Atelier Wen, and their respective collab partners. Finally, we say congratulations to our friends at Norqain for hitting their 5 year anniversary, who celebrated with a selection of 5 new watches. We take a closer look at their version of an openworked dial, and wish them continued success in their journey. Here’s hoping we get more lume dials sometime soon. Next weekend, we’ll be coming at you from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair, and if you’re in the Bay Area, we hope to see you there. For more details on this year’s event, head over to windupwatchfair.com and get a look at the schedule for each of the days, as well as the extensive list of brands you can look f...
Quill & Pad
Brittany "Nico" Cox is fascinated by looking at philosophical problems from a tactile perspective, and automata are a practical application of these ideas. Cochlea, a unique piece automaton, is the first in a series of ten animated imaginary animals she is creating.
Time+Tide
What do two new British watches, a steam train and a Scottish gynaecologist all have in common? Well, the first two are easy. The last one, however, may take some explanation. But before we dive in to that gem of a story, let’s take a look at a couple of special edition watches from the … ContinuedThe post Zero West launches two railway-inspired watches that pay homage to a world-famous locomotive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Tanner T. shares a tidy three watch collection that spans from some all-time classics, to some newcomers on the scene. There’s plenty of style here to enjoy, and even a reminder not to take ourselves too seriously. Best of all, this collection could come in under budget at the right spec. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. I must admit this was a challenge, not because I am spoiled for choice (which we all are these days as watch enthusiasts), but because I actually aspire to not be a collector. Wearing and enjoying a single piece day in, day out is something I pursue and practice. There’s something rewarding about a watch so satisfying and inherently capable that it requires no stablemates. Now for the rest of us who live in reality and want to experience more, here are three watches that comprise a solid trio and share unique aspects about what keeps collecting interesting. Oh, and they all fit well under five thousand of your hard-earned buckaroos. Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat ($2610 in small, $2740 in large) Cartier’s reputation as the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers” is another way of suggesting they’re your favorite watch company’s favorite watch company (the folks at Jaeger LeCoultre are gonna love that). The storied maison has been on an incredible run over the last few years with reimagined hits li...
Worn & Wound
Horage is a bit of an oddity in the watch world. Most brands build for years and years to be able to produce even a simple three-hand movement, should they even choose to go that route, and they tend to demand a high price. Horage has been working on theirs since its inception and has maintained a goal of industrialization over high prices starting with the K1, which had a silicon escapement and a modular complication system back at launch. Though it didn’t get the attention it deserved initially, it did inevitably ascend the horology ranks and prove its viability, as the K1 serves as the basis of Bremont’s ENG300 calibers. Eventually, Horage added the micro-rotor wound K2, featured in the Supersede. Another rarity, in addition to being thin, as micro-rotors tend to be, the K2 also featured modular design allowing for complications without increasing the base movement’s thickness by much, as well as a silicon escapement, 72-hour power reserve, and within chronometer accuracy. Another movement that would be impressive coming from a large luxury group, let alone an independent brand like Horage. While neither are small feats, today we’re looking at a watch with a movement that is perhaps even more impressive. The Lensman 1 features the K-TOU caliber, which is Horage’s in-house, Swiss-made tourbillon. Yes, you read that right. And the watch, despite featuring such a rare and exotic complication, comes in at under $10k. There’s a lot more to the watch as well, whic...
Worn & Wound
Now in its ninth year, and fourth in San Francisco, the Windup Watch Fair has become a fixture of the San Francisco watch community. Every April, enthusiasts, collectors, and newbies alike gather to shop and talk watches-and this year, there are even more events to participate in! Not only are there over 60 brands to check out at the Fair, we have for the first time in SF, a full slate of FREE panels and programming. We’ve put together a full rundown of special events below, but first, let’s remind everyone of the basics. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support of our presenting partners and, most importantly, our Lead Sponsors. This year’s Lead Sponsors include Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. All of these brands will have a significant presence within the Fair, with dynamic booth spaces and special events. We’re also beyond excited to be joined by over 60 presenting brands this year, which is double the size of last year’s events. The full roster of brands includes: And as a reminder, the event location and hours are as follows: Terra Gallery – 511 Harrison Street, San Francisco, CA 94105 Friday, April 28: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, April 29: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, April 30: 12PM – 5PM Throughout the days, attendees can expect food trucks, a full cash bar, dedicated lounge spaces, outdoor space, as well as sponsored giveaways from Bespoke Watch Project and Fils...
Deployant
A chance encounter ended up with the new Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans on my wrist. I was surprised at how much I liked the watch.
SJX Watches
Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Accutron Here we have a beautiful Accutron with a cool, space-age design. As if the now classic caliber 218 tuning fork movement isn’t futuro enough, the dial and handset on this one take it to the next level. The champagne dial has a radial brushed finish and thin yet bold radial lines for hour markers. The unpolished steel case is simple and round, but with a nice beveled bezel and sharp chamfers on the angled lugs. The bold red hour and minute hands along with the black second hand complete the space-age look. Signed crown at 4 o’clock…as it should be. Seller states the watch runs and keeps time. Vintage Accutrons don’t get much better than this! View auction here. Eagle Star Diver Here’s a vintage diver I haven’t seen before. I have a couple of vintage Eagle Star Squale divers from the 1960’s, but it looks like Eagle Star kept going into at least the 1980’s! This diver has a great look, and is in fantastic condition. The steel case has the classic Submariner style with the crown guards, and looks to be sharp and unpolished. The black dial has large lume Arabic numerals and a simple date window at 3 o’clock. The hands are black and white with lume p...
Worn & Wound
The late ’90s were a simpler time when it came to activity devices. There were no smart or connected watches, just simple, straightforward timers from brands like Timex and Casio. They could time you, and even keep track of laps, but they couldn’t track you the way these things do today. If you miss devices like that, you’ll be thrilled about this latest collaborative effort between Timex and our friends at Huckberry, who are bringing back the Ironman Flix watch, complete with that sweet Indiglo dial. The nostalgia hits hard with this one, like digging up that Walkman that still works, or even the Talkboy you absolutely needed that one Christmas. Tech wasn’t afraid to have some personality back in the ’90s and early ’00s, and the original Timex Ironman Flix was no exception. The Timex Ironman Flix gets the same Ironman labeling as the original, a nod to its pedigree in helping train triathletes thanks to it’s expansive 100 lap memory (!), and memo mode where you could store some (brief) notations on your activities. This may seem paltry by today’s super high-tech smart wearable devices, but this was impressive stuff for such a small device not long ago. Further, this boils your activities down to their basics, and encourages a far more straightforward approach to working out… just doing it. The Ironman Flix is a breath of fresh air, and I should know, it was my sole running companion for a week. With every major new Apple Watch release I tend to spend a f...
Time+Tide
Walking into the IWC booth at this year’s Watches & Wonders, you were instantly transported into the 1970s, surrounded by iconic shapes from design geniuses of the time. To efficiently navigate this landscape that likely resembles the inside of Dieter Rams’ brain, you need a competent guide, and who better than IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr? … ContinuedThe post IWC’S Chris Grainger-Herr talks heritage, innovation and the importance of details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
When you go to Watches & Wonders, you hope to have an experience like the one Zach Weiss and I did with De Bethune. The Geneva based brand was actually not exhibiting at the show, but had space in the Beau Rivage hotel, right on the lake, along with a dozen or so other independent brands, all taking good advantage of the watch world absolutely descending on the city for an entire week. I have long been an admirer of De Bethune, but always from afar. They are not the easiest indie to get your arms around, both literally and figuratively. The watches are very rare and hyper specific in their design language, and for a long time I had the sense that they might appeal to exactly the 200 or so people per year that are able to obtain a new piece, no more no less. But then the last three years happened, and every independent brand took off like a rocket ship, and since De Bethune watches kind of look like rocket ships to begin with, their rise was perhaps even steeper. The DB Eight Monopusher We were there, ostensibly, to see two watches. The brand’s latest novelties both happen to be more classically styled than the avant-garde pieces they’ve become known for. The DB Eight monopusher chronograph is about as classic as it gets. The case design, with those flared lugs, is based on the DB1, the very first De Bethune, also a chronograph. This one, though, has a brand new caliber and is fashioned from grade 5 titanium as opposed to solid gold. While the aesthetic of the watch is ...
Worn & Wound
Hublot and tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi are back again for another entry in the Sang Bleu collection, a series of watches named for Plescia-Buchi’s tattoo studios located in Los Angeles, Zurich, and London. The Sang Bleu watches always incorporate complex geometry and the watch design equivalent of the intricate line work that is core to Plesia-Buchi’s design language. These design elements translate remarkably well to a watch, if you’re at all inclined toward the abstract, at least. Up until now, the Big Bang has been Plesia-Buchi’s preferred canvas, but that changes here with a selection of watches using the barrel shaped Spirit of Big Bang as a starting point. As with previous Sang Bleu watches, the new editions seen here are marked by a series of facets throughout the case that create a compelling, sculpted look. The overlapping geometric shapes have a grid-like consistency and at some angles appear to take on the appearance of armor. Hublot has given Plescia-Buchi a great deal of freedom to work outside the normal constraints of the Spirit of Big Bang case shape. While that case is the clear inspiration for these watches and certainly falls under its larger umbrella, the lines of the case have been reworked to a certain extent, and the impression it gives from the front is quite a bit different in these Sang Bleu watches. The dial is sapphire and provides a view to the skeletonized chronograph movement underneath it. Time is read by rotating disc “...
Worn & Wound
“Just a Minute” is one of our video segments where we take you through the ins and outs of some of our favorite products in just a minute! We’ve been doing this format for quite a while and our followers keep asking for more so here we are! Today, we’re taking a quick look at the “True” GMT offering from BOLDR Supply Co; the Odyssey Freediver GMT. A great piece from a trusted brand that has quite a bit to offer. “Just a Minute” is one of our video segments where we take you through the ins and outs of some of our favorite products in just a minute! We’ve been doing this format for quite a while and our followers keep asking for more so here we are! Today, we’re taking a quick look at the “True” GMT offering from BOLDR Supply Co; the Odyssey Freediver GMT. A great piece from a trusted brand that has quite a bit to offer. The post Just A Minute with BOLDR Supply Co’s Odyssey Freediver GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
One of the most compelling new releases at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Rolex Perpetual 1908, brand’s most serious take on the dress watch in decades. Elegantly sized and surprisingly thin, the 1908 is equipped with the all-new, automatic cal. 7140. Perhaps the most significant debut from Rolex in recent years, the 1908 replaces the ill-fated Cellini. Named after the year Rolex was founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the 1908 is significant not so much for what it is – a dress watch with exceptional quality of manufacture – but simply because it is the first new collection of watches from Rolex in decades. Importantly, the 1908 is the first model in the new Perpetual collection, which implies that Rolex will be introducing more watches like this in time to come. Initial thoughts In my view, the Cellini collection always felt underdeveloped. The models introduced in 2017 had potential, but they shared too much in common with their sportier siblings, both in terms of movements and dimensions, leaving them feeling too clunky to be an alternative to the entry-level dress watches from traditional haute horlogerie brands. The 1908, on the other hand, feels like a proper effort. Compared to the outgoing Cellini models, almost every detail has been tangibly upgraded to some degree. In the hand, the 1908 feels like a Rolex – the tactile feel of quality is quickly apparent. Despite being fairly svelte at 9.5 mm high, the case of the 1908 has the solidity of an Oyster case – th...
Time+Tide
In a world where heritage is often a deciding factor when it comes to credibility, Tissot’s long-standing existence is certainly a plus. The brand has never strayed from looking back at its catalogue and re-releasing a winner – the PRX is the only proof of that you’ll need – but the way Tissot intertwines their … ContinuedThe post How Tissot weaves history into their collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Hello, it’s me, Kat Shoulders, your friendly neighborhood photographer. As the Media Production Manager here at Worn & Wound, I tend to be more behind the scenes, but I have a goal this year to be a little more active with the editorial team as much as I can. I was honored to get to join the team this year at Watches & Wonders and had a freaking blast at my first show. I’ll admit it was a bit overwhelming at first, but by the time I was boarding my flight back to the states I really did not want to come back home. Being in Geneva felt like I was in the center of the watch world. Where it was ok to flaunt and talk about your watches as much as you wanted to or walk up to someone and ask what watch they were wearing. It was truly an experience that has put me on a bit of a high since I left and I find myself a bit more engaged in the watch release world again. It’s tough working in this industry sometimes – you get a bit jaded when it comes to new watches. Watches & Wonders really lifted my WIS spirits and it was lovely to get behind the camera to shoot many of the novelties at the show. I shot more watches than I can recall at Watches & Wonders but I had a few standouts that I’d like to give some special attention to. These are pieces that for some reason or another just really stood out to me and gave me all those warm fuzzy feelings inside. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds The new JLC Reverso Tribute Chrono was certainly a favorite among many...
Time+Tide
The Ressence Type 8 is the independent brand’s entry-level timepiece at CHF 12,500 Type 8 offers purely the essentials, just the hours and minutes via their proprietary ROCS system The Ressence Type 8S Sage dial joins the previous Type 8C Cobalt Blue as the second entry into the Type 8 line A clear requisite for … ContinuedThe post Ressence give their entry-level Type 8 a distinct sage-green treatment with new Type 8S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Fratello announced their latest limited edition last week, a collaboration with Straum, a Norwegian brand on the rise who made some noise a few years ago with the Opphav, a stainless steel integrated bracelet sports watch made for an affordable price with a dynamic textured dial. The new collaborative watch with Fratello is notable in that it appears to be a true collaboration, with Straum making rather significant changes to their design at Fratello’s request. This is somewhat rare in the world of collaborative watches, and in this case has resulted in a rather compelling edition with a fiery red dial and some key refinements made from the brand’s earlier watch. The Fratello x Straum Jan Mayen Limited Edition is named for a Norwegian island that the brand has tapped for inspiration when it comes to the striking red dial. Fratello describes it as “lava red” fumé, appropriate given Jan Mayen is home to the Beerenberg volcano. Ridges emanating from the dial’s center replicate flowing lava, and the effect is achieved via a stamping process followed by several steps of painting and surface finishing treatments. The dial text is minimal, just the brand’s logo and wordmark at 12:00, allowing the unique texture to truly take a starring role. There are several small details beyond the new dial design that differentiate the new LE from Straum’s earlier Opphav. First, the case size has been slightly reduced, from just shy of 41mm to 39mm. At the same time, the bezel...
Time+Tide
Humans are strange creatures. We flock to what’s “hot” and turn our noses up at what’s “not” in order to feel a part of something. It happens all the time. In fashion, in cars and most definitely in watches. We stick with the hits (even when we can’t buy them!) and ignore the rest. For once … ContinuedThe post The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Fresh off the oven of the recent Watches & Wonders 2023, we take a deep look at the novelties and select six great watches below US$5,000.
Time+Tide
Lion tamer, Professor of Advanced Mathematics, Alaskan crab fisherman… Truth be told there are many jobs that I’d be really, really bad at. But another profession where I’d also fail abysmally would be working as a buyer for a multi-brand watch retailer. The reason I’m aware of this additional shortcoming is due to my experience … ContinuedThe post How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Take a look at some of the most famous pilot’s watches of all time, and ask yourself what they’re missing. It won’t appear obvious at first, but once you’ve realised then it will seem like a glaring omission forever. The answer is of course the word “pilot” itself, which is entirely due to Zenith registering … ContinuedThe post How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Diver’s watches rank among the most popular timepieces, which is not surprising considering that they combine cutting-edge features with bold, sporty looks. At Watches and Wonders 2022 Montblanc joined the ranks of sports watch manfacturers with a refreshing take on the diver’s watch called the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date.
Time+Tide
Norqain is celebrating their 5th anniversary, and 5 years of their brand-debuting Independence collection Three have solid coloured dials (green, brown, and MOP), two are skeletons All COSC-certified, and each feature their new bracelet with on-the-fly micro-adjustment At this very moment Norqain, the press, and their partners are rocking out in Zermatt, Switzerland for the … ContinuedThe post Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A big part of the appeal of micro-brands* rests in their ability to exercise a greater level of general creativity to bring a specific vision to life, something we’ve always found value in around here. We’ve seen some pretty sophisticated stuff take shape, from unique hand sets and dials, to wandering hours and composite cases. One brand in particular has proven rather adept at implementing what I have no issues calling exotic engineering solutions to their watches, and that brand is Formex. With “roots in high-end watch manufacturing” that should come as no surprise, and while the brand’s own aesthetic has undergone some pretty wild transitions, they seem to have landed in a cohesive space with their latest generations of watches in the Essence, Reef, and Field collections. *Okay, Formex isn’t exactly a micro-brand. They are attached to that noted “high-end watch manufacturer” in a way that very, very few brands (large or small) are. This allows them access to engineer solutions for things like quick adjustment mechanisms in a manner that almost zero micro-brands can. Formex is a small (but not really) manufacturer that produces their own watches, which take full advantage of that fact. The micro-brand or small-independent nomenclature doesn’t neatly apply here, but given the price points that Formex tends to play in, I view them along the same lines as more traditional micro-brands the likes of which we frequently discuss around here. $1790 [VIDEO] Ow...
Time+Tide
Watch fans were eagerly awaiting Watches & Wonders, with over 40 brands presenting their new novelties at the fair. But, for one brand, there was exceptional anticipation – and that brand was IWC. In our watch-bubble, murmurs spread like wildfire that would be the year that IWC would revamp their beloved Ingenieur watch. Fortunately, IWC … ContinuedThe post Our favourite IWC releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Modern mechanical chronograph movements have mostly been conceived according to two standardised recipes. One is the vertical clutch approach exemplified by the the sporty, performance oriented cal. 4131 inside the Rolex Daytona, while the other is the classical, lateral coupling architecture used by the celebrated L951.1 in the Lange Datograph. Sticking with a successful architecture is no bad thing, after all, chronographs are complicated enough in their basic form. However, there are some chronographs that stand out for being truly original, like the F.P. Journe Centigraphe and its cal. 1506. Constructed like no other chronograph on the market, the Centigraphe seeks to measure times with a resolution of 1/100th of a second with a unique movement that is modern in its approach yet subtly references the work of John Harrison. In many ways it encapsulates the philosophy of François-Paul Journe, which prizes original, creative watchmaking that pays tribute to historical greats. The cal. 1506 Despite its achievements, the Centigraphe is overshadowed by the brand’s signature watches, namely the Resonance and Tourbillon Souverain, and remains one of of F.P. Journe’s less-known offerings. Paradoxically, the Centigraphe should be more recognised than most other F.P. Journe watches because has a tangible link to the world of celebrity with its Formula 1 provenance, having been conceived at the suggestion of Jean Todt, the former boss of Ferrari’s Formula 1 team. Although...
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.