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Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch: the battle between the classic and contender Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch Mar 29, 2021

Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch: the battle between the classic and contender

Grand Seiko has been around for over 60 years, but within the last decade the brand is slowly (yet exponentially) growing its presence throughout the watch community and the world. The brand is known by enthusiasts for their high-value craftsmanship, offering more black polished components than most Swiss brands – and at a fraction of … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch: the battle between the classic and contender appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

GoS Imagines Aurora Borealis in Guilloche and Super-Luminova SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Mar 29, 2021

GoS Imagines Aurora Borealis in Guilloche and Super-Luminova

A Swedish watchmaker founded by knife maker Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren, Gustafsson & Sjögren (GoS) is best known for incorporating pattern-welded steel, better known as Damascus steel, in its watches. But GoS also frequently works with fellow watchmakers and artisans, à la MB&F; but at a more affordable level. Its latest watch is a five-way collaboration that combines traditional guilloche, generous Super-Luminova, and hand-made glass: the Norrsken, Swedish for northern lights, the seasonal light display seen over the North Pole. Initial thoughts The Norrsken is a departure from mainstream watchmaking, but even stands out against the increasingly crowded independent watchmaking scene. It is made up of familiar elements, like the guilloche dial and Black Badger “lume”, but of high quality and combined in an interesting, novel manner. Produced by a well-known guilloche specialist, the dial is artisanal but excellent. Similarly, the case also looks to be just as well-executed, with the bezel available in either polished or Damascus steel; though the latter makes the most sense given GoS’ speciality. And the movement comes from Schwarz Etienne (a brand that has enjoyed greater success with its movements in watches other than its own), but equipped with a micro-rotor crafted from Damascus steel. The green Damascus steel dial, seen here in a prototype And the Norrsken lives up to its name, managing to evoke northern lights, or aurora borealis, in...

5 Perennially Treasured Rock Songs About Time (With Videos) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Mar 28, 2021

5 Perennially Treasured Rock Songs About Time (With Videos) – Reprise

“Time” is a topic often explored by artists, although it doesn’t even hold a candle to “love.” However, “time” is Elizabeth Doerr's topic, so her ears perk up when she catches a particularly poignant song about it. Recently, she has begun to think a bit more about these songs as both they and she (gracefully) age. Here she shares five cool songs about time with some background.

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel “High Jewellery” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Mar 26, 2021

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel “High Jewellery”

A watch that combines the famous octagonal case with an innovative movement, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked is unquestionably the most technically interesting time-only Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak. And then there’s this bejewelled version that’s certainly a lot more extravagant, but at the same time shows off the details and finishing of the movement better. Initial thoughts This watch is the ultimate black-tie watch – time-only and eminently classical in size at just 37 mm. In fact, it’s quite a bit smaller than the 41 mm standard model, making it a discreet fit under a cuff that will probably be secured by diamond-set cufflinks. It’s also dressed up with a glossy crocodile strap and a lot of generously sized, baguette-cut diamonds – a technically-inclined watch that takes its bling seriously. But this is not just another octagonal watch with diamonds. The movement relies on a novel technical concept for better timekeeping, but its technical merits are usually overlooked because it is installed inside a “hot” watch. And this particular version of the movement is more attractively executed here than on the standard models. Because movement here is plated in silvery rhodium – no doubt to match the dazzling whiteness of the diamonds – it’s more appealing than on the non-jewelled versions that have a dark grey ruthenium finish that’s almost black. While the finishing of the two is essentially identical, the dark finish obscures much ...

Omega Unveils De Ville Trésor Hand-Wind SJX Watches
Omega Unveils De Ville Trésor Mar 26, 2021

Omega Unveils De Ville Trésor Hand-Wind

Inspired by a mid-century gentleman’s watches, the Trésor is a newish sub-collection of Omega’s longstanding De Ville line. Just announced alongside the new Seamaster 300, the latest addition to the range is the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds, the most pared-back version to date. Also new is the slightly more complicated, but equally elegant, De Ville Trésor Power Reserve. Tresor Small Seconds (left) in Sedna gold, and Tresor Power Reserve in yellow gold Initial thoughts The new Trésor is unique in Omega’s catalogue for its movement and dial. It’s one of the very few Omega watches without a rotor, with the other more famous model that’s also hand wind being the Speedmaster Moonwatch. The manual-wind movement is apt, feeling at home on a dress watch and well suited for its vintage-inspired style of the Trésor. The cal. 8927 in the Small Seconds The new models illustrate the improving design of the Trésor line up, at least for watch enthusiasts who appreciate traditional design. The model range started with a format familiar for Omega – centre seconds and the date at six – but the new Trésor is focused, with all superfluous functions removed. Also gone is the patterned dial, giving the watch a cleaner appearance. With its simpler aesthetic, the new models gain a stronger identity, differentiating the Trésor from the rest of the catalogue, and even its fellow De Ville watches. Though the new design is progress, it’s still not perfect, yet. The desig...

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGD207 Spring Drive 8 Day Masterpiece is a bejewelled head-turner in a platinum case Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGD207 Spring Drive 8 Mar 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGD207 Spring Drive 8 Day Masterpiece is a bejewelled head-turner in a platinum case

While Grand Seiko watches invariably have more of a claim to being works of art than practically all other brands at their price point (and beyond), the Grand Seiko SBGD207 is on a whole other level. Masterpiece is not a term the brand throws around lightly. The Masterpiece collection within Grand Seiko’s catalogue represents their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGD207 Spring Drive 8 Day Masterpiece is a bejewelled head-turner in a platinum case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; Marks the 10th Anniversary of the Legacy Machine SJX Watches
MB&F; Mar 24, 2021

MB&F; Marks the 10th Anniversary of the Legacy Machine

Though MB&F; was founded on the premise of avant-grade expressions of the watch case with its Horological Machines, the brand has an equally successful, and far more traditional, collection of watches with conventional round cases, the Legacy Machines (LM). It’s hard to believe, but the LM collection is a decade old now (and MB&F; itself is almost 16 years old). For the LM’s 10th anniversary, MB&F; has created ultimate version of the LM1, the watch that launched the series. Short for Legacy Machine X – with the final letter being a Roman “10” – the LMX incorporates diverse elements from the past decade’s watches as well as several new ideas, resulting in a familiar but all-new “machine”. So it has the familiar twin sub-dials for two time zones, but now inclined. Likewise, the LMX features a vertical power reserve indicator, but now made more elaborate with a spherical display. And all of that is contained within a thinner case that’s similar to that first seen on the LM Thunderdome triple-axis tourbillon. The LMX in pink gold Initial thoughts Compared to the original LM1, the LMX is indeed heavily upgraded inside and out, with a sleeker styling that includes a more three-dimensional dial, as well as a newly-developed, triple-barrel movement with weeklong power reserve. By most measures, the LMX is an excellent evolution of the original LM idea – and an impressive watch in its own right – but it does feel less adventurous than it should be for a milest...

6 key differences between the new Omega Seamaster 300 and the previous generation Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster 300 Mar 23, 2021

6 key differences between the new Omega Seamaster 300 and the previous generation

When it comes to Omega dive watches, the Seamaster 300 is an enthusiast favourite. Yes, the Diver 300M collection is hugely popular, but for those who aren’t after a contemporary design and prefer the softer and more balanced designs of the Omega archives, then the Seamaster 300 is where you may well eventually find yourself. … ContinuedThe post 6 key differences between the new Omega Seamaster 300 and the previous generation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black SJX Watches
Hublot Mar 23, 2021

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black

With no physical launch event this year, Omega unveiled its new watches in a prerecorded video that concluded with a cameo by its brand ambassador George Clooney. The line up was compact, indicating there will be more new models later in the year. There was only a single Seamaster Diver amongst the new offerings, and it was the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, Seamaster Black Black is typical of Omega in its quality and technology. It’s almost entirely ceramic on the outside, made up of components sintered, sculptured, and sanded with precision. And the Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement within boasts all of the brand’s technical innovations. For a bit under US$9,000, it is a fair deal for the quality and materials. But the all-black look is dated. The pioneer of the look was the Big Bang All Black of 2006, one of Jean-Claude Biver’s opening acts at Hublot. Its success created a wave of all-black watches that lasted for about a decade. And the novelty of the coloured ceramic will be quickly lost if additional variants in other colours of ceramic are introduced, as happened with the Dark Side of the Moon. Black ceramic The dial, bezel, case middle, and case back of the new Seamaster are all black ceramic, specifically zirconium dioxide, or ZrO2. The dial is etched with laser, creating an alternating polished and matte finish, with the polished elements standing out in slight relief. And to prese...

Curated Vintage Vacheron Constantin with Les Collectionneurs SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mar 23, 2021

Curated Vintage Vacheron Constantin with Les Collectionneurs

Traditionally considered one of the “holy trinity” in haute horlogerie, Vacheron Constantin vast, rich archive of historical timepieces. For several years now, Vacheron Constantin has carefully mined that history, curating a compact collection of vintage watches each year for Les Collectionneurs, restored vintage watches offered at its boutiques. Les Collectionneurs includes Vacheron Constantin timepieces from the last century that span the brand’s repertoire, from the mega-rare complicated references to more affordable time-only watches – all sympathetically restored and backed by a two-year warranty. A selection of Les Collectionneurs watches are on usually show at a handful of boutiques around the world, and a 16-piece line up recently landed in Singapore. From now till March 31, 2021, the watches will be available at the Vacheron Constantin boutique in Marina Bay Sands, alongside Diptyques, an exhibition exploring the brand’s historical watches created in collaborations with other artists, jewellers, and designers (which are drawn from the brand’s museum and not for sale). Here’s a look at highlights from the Les Collectionneurs line up in Singapore. Ref. 4414 “Heure Universelle” pocket watch Completed in 1949, this yellow gold pocket watch is equipped with the world time mechanism invented by Louis Cottier. Unlike a GMT watch that tells the time in a second location, a world time use a simple but clever pair trick to show the time in all 24 time zo...

INTRODUCING: The all black everything Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Mar 22, 2021

INTRODUCING: The all black everything Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black

The fan favourite Omega Seamaster Diver 300m is getting more than a facelift in 2021. That’s right, the watch best known for appearing on the wrist of 007 will now be available in full ceramic in the all-new Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black. And that repetition in the name is for emphasis. This watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The all black everything Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 GMT Watches For Traveling In Style And On A Budget Quill & Pad
Mar 22, 2021

3 GMT Watches For Traveling In Style And On A Budget

One of the things Martin Green enjoys most about vacations is having as little to worry about as possible. That means for a watch he is looking for a versatile, leisurely partner that is as suitable for hiking as it is for drinks and dinner afterward. And while he generally likes to travel in style, his travel watch shouldn’t be too expensive for more of a care-free experience on vacation. Here he looks at three budget contenders for the wrist on your next holiday, whenever that may be.

WatchBox Commentary On Hodinkee Takeover Of Crown & Caliber And State Of The Pre-Owned Market Quill & Pad
Mar 20, 2021

WatchBox Commentary On Hodinkee Takeover Of Crown & Caliber And State Of The Pre-Owned Market

In 2020/2021, the pre-owned landscape has experienced a seismic shift called consolidation, led by the acquisition of online vintage and pre-owned dealer Analog/Shift by Watches of Switzerland in late 2020 and more recently Hodinkee purchasing Crown & Caliber. Elizabeth Doerr converses with pre-owned watch specialist WatchBox's CEO Justin Reis for views on the Hodinkee takeover and the current pre-owned market.

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” in Platinum and Green SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” Mar 19, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” in Platinum and Green

Conceived as a home-like atmosphere – and located in more discreet locations than traditional boutiques – AP Houses are key to Audemars Piguet’s retail strategy. And now the handful of AP Houses around the world have their own exclusive edition, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in platinum with a smoked green dial. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 15202 is an iconic design, and one of the genuine instances where the label is applied correctly. It’s also thin and elegant, while having a substantial presence. And the cal. 2121 inside is an old but impressively sophisticated calibre. But the Jumbo is also one of the hottest watches today, and its desirability has long become disconnected with its intrinsic qualities. Being platinum, the latest version is extremely expensive, but also extremely attractive. The weight and lustre of the metal – especially combined with the fine case finishing of the Royal Oak – gives it tremendous tangible appeal. And the green dial, while not novel (it isn’t a modern-day invention but H. Moser is today’s best practitioner of the smoked finish), looks good. The new Jumbo is, in short, a beautiful watch that’s going to be rather hard to obtain. House exclusive There are seven AP Houses around the world, including in New York, London, Hong Kong, and Bangkok, which will be the only venues to obtain the new Jumbo. Production will be limited to 100 watches in the first year, which means each AP House should get about two a...

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mar 18, 2021

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands

Christie’s Education, the learning division of the auction house, has just launched Behind the Curtain: Watchmaking Houses, a series of virtual classes catered to beginner enthusiasts that profile the most important watch brands – essentially the names that are typically the most sought after at watch auctions. Conducted by Geneva-based watch expert Antoine Géraud, the weekly courses cover the history, important watches, and key personalities at Patek Phillipe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier. Each lecture is 75 minutes, and recordings of each session will be available for seven days after the class should participants wish to revisit. The programme is essentially a crash course, making it ideal for beginners who want to learn more about key brands. And the length of the lectures seems ideal – punchy and brief, but enough to convey the necessary knowledge. The Patek Philippe ref. 5101P 10 Day Tourbillon Alongside the watch history classes is a separate programme covering the biggest names in jewellery, taught by historian Vanessa Cron. Just like the watch classes, these will go into the stories behind names like Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, and Cartier. With jewellers often being watchmakers as well, burgeoning watch enthusiasts might find the jewellery classes useful too. An Audemars Piguet Grand Complication pocket watch that sold at Christie’s in 2019 The price of a single class is HK$1,200, or about US$150. The ...

Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership with Marvel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership Mar 18, 2021

Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership with Marvel

Audemars Piguet just announced many of the year’s new launches during Inside AP, a virtual presentation anchored by chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias and head of complications Michael Friedman, which also included something more intriguing – a partnership with Marvel and its band of superheroes. Hinted at when I interviewed Mr Bennahmias in 2019 – the announcement originally slated for a June 2020 – the tie up was decades in the making. According to Mr Bennahmias, he had envisioned a tie up with Marvel, the film studio and comic-book publisher that owns characters like Spider-Man, Iron Man, as well as the Avengers and X-Men, some 15 years ago. He only managed to set it in motion in 2017, thanks to American actor Don Cheadle, best known for playing War Machine in the Iron Man and Avengers film series. Friends with Mr Bennahmias for a decade, Mr Cheadle set up a meeting with Marvel executives that year, and also took part in today’s Inside AP presentation. Francois-Henry Bennahmias (left) and Don Cheadle Coming soon to a watch near you. Image – Marvel Studios Mr Bennahmias noted the Marvel partnership was inspired in part by the Fantasy watches of Gerald Genta that featured Disney characters like Mickey Mouse. Coincidentally, Marvel is now owned by The Walt Disney Company, making it a realisation of his ambition in more ways than one. More details about this tie up will be revealed in April during an event in Los Angeles. Stay tuned.  

De Bethune’s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets a Blued Meteorite Dial SJX Watches
De Bethune s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets Mar 17, 2021

De Bethune’s Ultra-Thin DB28XP Gets a Blued Meteorite Dial

Introduced to commemorate the 10th anniversary of De Bethune’s signature watch, the DB28XP is a pared-back, slimmer and more wearable take on the original model, though still instantly recognisable with its trademark pivoted lugs. Now De Bethune unveils the most exotic variant of the watch to date, the DB28XP Meteorite. It retains many of the elements the brand is known for, but the highlight is a brilliantly blued meteorite dial. Meteorite dials are common, even on inexpensive watches, but De Bethune’s meteorite is unlike any other in watchmaking. Though the material is just like any other meteorite, it has been heat-treated, creating a blue oxidisation that gives it a special blue sheen. Initial thoughts De Bethune is one of my favourite independent watchmakers – I love the Kind of Two Tourbillon from earlier in the year. Innovation is its raison d’etre, and the new DB28XP Meteorite exemplifies that, both technically and aesthetically. While heat-blued titanium is a De Bethune hallmark, heat-blued meteorite takes the look to a whole new level. The gold-studded “starry sky” dial captures the cosmos on the wrist. Though the look is very different, the DB28XP Meteorite has all of the wearability of the standard model. It has sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to cling to the wrist, while also being more compact than the original, full-size DB28. The brand has previously utilised the blued meteorite in the Dream Watch 5 and Kind of Blue Meteorite – both sp...

Introducing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad Mar 16, 2021

Introducing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad

Blancpain’s iconic dive watch introduced in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms was named after the maximum depth then considered to be safe for divers, about 91 m. The Fifty Fathoms also claims the title of being the first purpose-built dive watch, though Rolex contends that its Submariner came first. Produced in a great many iterations, the Fifty Fathoms has become highly collectible in good number of variations, including those bearing the “No Radiations” logo – used in the early 1960s to indicate that radioactive radium was no longer used for the luminescence of the dial. That watch has now been revived by Blancpain as the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad, a limited edition that channels the spirit of the 1960s original, but executed in modern-day Blancpain quality. An example of the vintage Fifty Fathoms “No Radiations” Initial thoughts A staple of Blancpain’s line up, the Fifty Fathoms has been revived in various guises over the last few years, with the latest “No Rad” being the latest of several vintage remakes. The abundance of Fifty Fathoms limited editions – all similar but slightly different – have diminished its uniqueness somewhat, but the “No Rad” is nonetheless compelling. For one, the design has some provenance: the vintage “No Radiations” is a rare watch that’s exploded in value on the secondary market. And the “No Radiations” dial is quaint and quirky, but also historically significant in the transition from radium to tritium, c...

Breitling Debuts Watch Subscription Programme SJX Watches
Breitling Debuts Watch Subscription Programme Mar 16, 2021

Breitling Debuts Watch Subscription Programme

The subscription model – where customers pay for access, but not necessarily ownership – is familiar, and increasingly prevalent. Spotify and Netflix are amongst the best known examples, but subscriptions are now found in fashion – a new wardrobe weekly – and even automobiles, with Porsche Drive that offers a new car every month. And now also in watches: Breitling becomes the first major watch brand to offer a subscription with BreitlingSelect. More accurately, BreitlingSelect is a combination of a subscription and instalment payment plan. It starts with the wearer rotating amongst a handful of trial watches over a year, while paying a monthly fee. But at the end of the year, the total fee paid can be put towards buying one of the watches worn during the trial. Initial thoughts Watch subscription isn’t novel. New York-based ElevenJames launched with much fanfare in 2013, before shutting down quietly five years later. There have been plenty more similar services offered in several of the world’s major watch markets, but few have been sustainable. Consumers quickly realise it makes more sense to save for a watch, rather than paying subscription fees, which are by nature hefty since the timepieces being subscribed to are luxury watches. Breitling clearly believes that its subscription service can buck that trend. The crucial difference between BreitlingSelect and everything that has come before is the brand – BreitlingSelect is being offered by the watch manufa...

De Bethune Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video) Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching Mar 15, 2021

De Bethune Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video)

De Bethune highlights that there is more than one way to rotate a watch, using its floating lug system to perfection in the new DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. Look out, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching the blue tourbillon escapement beating away in high-def macro video is simply captivating: you'll want to watch it over and over and over.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 and SLA049J1 Limited Edition Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 Mar 15, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 and SLA049J1 Limited Edition

Prospex is the largest growing Seiko line-up with buyers flocking to add pieces from the collection to their wrist. Highly robust and value-driven, these watches can be more affordable than their competitors with little to no sacrifice in the quality of fabrication. While many will refer to this watch as a new entry into the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 and SLA049J1 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Mar 15, 2021

Review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds

Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds In a world dominated by round wristwatches, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso stands out as among the most recognisable non-round timepieces in the market. Deemed by many connoisseurs as a must-have watch in any collection, the success of this reversible, rectangular watch is not just down to its timeless design, butRead More