Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Gets A Green Dial
The second design of the series sees a splash of color in a limited edition of 150 pieces.
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Hodinkee
The second design of the series sees a splash of color in a limited edition of 150 pieces.
Worn & Wound
Whenever Bulgari introduces a new Serpenti, we see a familiar chorus of articles and reactions, often but not always from male members of the watch media, opining on the possibility of a “Serpenti for men”. We don’t like to gender watches around here and firmly believe that anyone can wear anything they’d like, but there’s also no point in denying that the Serpenti, for its entire history, has been aimed squarely at the ladies market, and that the watch itself, insofar as it resembles a piece of fine jewelry, possesses a certain inherent femininity. So the thought experiment of what a Serpenti that is truly gender neutral or even designed for a male wrist has persisted (even though it’s perfectly fine for some watches to just be what they are). Today, through a collaboration with MB&F;, we get an answer, kind of. The Bulgari x MB&F; Serpenti is an audacious reimagining of the core Serpenti idea, which is to interpret the body of a snake as a time telling device. MB&F;, of course, is the perfect collaborator for an endeavor like this. They’re no strangers to taking the essence of a living thing and turning it into a horological work of art. After frogs and bulldogs, the snake seems like a comfortable next step in populating the MB&F; zoo. The new creation, unlike a Serpenti Tubogas that is meant to wrap around a wrist, is worn like a traditional watch, at least in the sense that it consists of a case with a strap mounted to either end of it. That case though...
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to deny the outward appeal of a field watch. Tactical but not overly macho, mature but not boring-the traditional field watch “style” is eminently wearable for combatants, explorers, mountaineers, and the regular old civilian crowd. Classics like the Hamilton Khaki Field, Bulova A-11 “Hack”, Seiko Alpinist, Rolex Explorer, and many, many more, are icons of the category, and it’s hard to feel like there’s much more to be innovated or improved upon. The TUUL Filthy 13 is keenly aware of the history of the field watch. Its very name is a derivation of the “Dirty Dozen”-both the 1967 war movie about a squad of delinquent soldiers, and the twelve Swiss watchmakers commissioned to build a watch to help win World War II for the Allied forces in 1945. The Filthy 13 is a reference to Private Jake McNiece, the thirteenth member of the real-life military unit, left out of the film based on the squad’s feats-a cheeky signal of the Brooklyn-based company’s dedication to preserving the history and resilience of the field watch, while carving their own convention-breaking niche. I was given the opportunity to test out the Filthy 13, and was immediately drawn in by the well-laid out history and inspiration behind the watch. My first field watch was a Timex Weekender Indiglo given to me by my grandfather-a watch I still have and wear frequently-and I regularly pine after the Hamilton and Seiko 5 lineups. At first glance, the Filthy 13 is a well...
Hodinkee
Four years after the two brands' first collaboration, two of watchmaking's best designers get creative with an icon.
Monochrome
Incredible things can happen when you put Bulgari’s designer extraordinaire and director of watchmaking, Fabrizio Buonamassa, and MB&F;’s visionary founder and creator, Max Büsser, in the same room. Joining forces for the second time, the dynamic duo has envisioned a new habitat for Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti that sheds its familiar feminine universe and takes possession […]
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Time+Tide
MB&F; shows off a new spin on the Bulgari icon.The post The Bulgari Serpenti becomes a horological machine with a little help from MB&F; appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
MB&F; turns 20 this year, and is celebrating in style with a number of new releases planned. The first was the launch of the Legacy Machine Longhorn editions just under a month ago, and today the brand has partnered with Bulgari to unveil the Bulgari x MB&F; Serpenti, a new take on the Italian jeweller’s iconic Bulgari creation. Available in three separate limited editions of 33 pieces each in titanium, rose gold, and steel (pictured above, left to right), the Serpenti takes on the provocative form of a serpent’s head, with the time read via rotating domes inside the creature’s “eyes”. Initial thoughts I’ve always appreciated the Bulgari Serpenti, arguably the only successful watch model to break with conventional bracelet design. So I was intrigued to see the brand’s collaboration with MB&F; dispense with the iconic spiral-shaped bracelet and focus instead on the serpent’s head. The intrigue of this Serpenti is centered on its case, which is understandably complex to create, given its flowing, organic shape and the need for enough precision to seal all five oddly shaped sapphire crystals well enough to earn a 30 m water resistance rating. With hinged lugs front and rear, the Serpenti will likely wear well on most wrists, despite its 18 mm thickness and 53 mm case length. The Serpenti is brought to life by a bespoke movement born from the HM10 Bulldog. Like its predecessor, the time is read via the “eyes” which are comprised of paper-thin aluminium domes; ...
Monochrome
Brellum is a recent comer to the watch scene, founded by watchmaker Sébastien Muller in 2016. With a limited annual production of around 300 watches and an emphasis on chronographs with chronometer-certified movements, the brand’s direct sales policy (no intermediaries) means that Brellum can keep its prices in check. One of the first models we […]
SJX Watches
A tribute to Seiko’s first-ever pocket watch dating to 1895, the Presage Craftsmanship Series SPB495 boasts a white fired enamel dial with elongated Roman numerals, a style typical of pocket watches during the turn of the century. As is tradition for the Presage Craftsmanship series, the fired enamel dial is produced in the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa in the traditional way, firing the enamel glaze in a high-temperature kiln, while staying accessible with a retail price of US$1,400. Initial thoughts Seiko has released numerous re-creations of its first wristwatch, the Laurel of 1913, including the recent Presage “Porter Classic” SPB449. However, with the SPB495, the brand now goes back even further to its first pocket watch, which is marking its 130th anniversary this year. Notably, this uses the revamped Presage case that’s a little smaller and slimmer than earlier generations. The case is still a little big for a dress watch, but acceptable and also necessary due to the size of the movement. The dial is typical of 19th century pocket watches and extremely classical, even by the standards of the classical Presage series. It’s basically another option for someone who appreciates the cost-performance offering of the Presage. Staying in the usual sweet spot for pricing of the Presage Craftsmanship Series, the SPB495 is priced competitively at US$1,400. Although it’s pricier than the base-model Presage offerings, the price is more than justified by the fired enam...
The post Some Of The Best Watches For Every Wrist Size appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Time+Tide
Just because Daniel Wellington calls its watches minimalist doesn't mean they are. But if so, what does 'minimalism' mean?The post The difference between minimalism and laziness in watch design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Unless you have been living under a rock for the last few weeks, you must have heard of the latest artificial intelligence (AI) software from China: DeepSeek. The perfect 6 watch collection – picked by DeepSeek We have previously toyed around with a few AI chatbots, notably ChatGPT and Meta AI. Given that DeepSeek isRead More
Fratello
It has been a while since we covered Panerai’s Luminor Due collection. Mike wrote an article in 2019 when the brand went from the OPXXXIV to the new P.900 movement. He was a fan of the simpler Luminor Due models, mainly because of their dial design, the crown system, and the case shape. We thought […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day to read the full article.
Time+Tide
If you needed any more proof that US$1,000 can get you a great mechanical watch, this list of affordables is it.The post 15 of the best mechanical watches under $1,000 that define value proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Ceramic is a material that has been used in watches for decades. It comes with some significant advantages over more traditional stainless steel. However, there are also a couple of issues to consider. Recently, I spent a significant amount of time with the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic RAAF (ref. IW3281-02). This is a modern interpretation […] Visit Looking To Buy A Ceramic Watch? Here Are The Benefits And Potential Downsides to read the full article.
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Monochrome
Chasing land speed records might seem futile and pointless to most, but there’s a genuine upside to mankind’s thrive for ever more, ever better, ever faster. Of course, it can come at a cost, either financial or physical, but at some point down the line, we can benefit from the innovations and developments needed to […]
Time+Tide
These minimalist watches have slim cases and unassuming dials, but are uncompromising when it comes to design, making the most of the least.The post 16 of the best minimalist watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Before Rolex chucks CFB in the bin, Zach has a proposal for the Crown...The post Rolex calls it quits on the Carl F. Bucherer brand, but I have a proposal for the Crown… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The President and the Senior VP of Seiko Watch Corp join Ben for a candid chat about their histories with Seiko, bringing Grand Seiko to the US, and much more.
Worn & Wound
Thomas Schnelle’s journey began in northern Germany, where he pursued studies in toolmaking. After completing his technical college education, Schnelle found himself at a crossroads. While he contemplated studying design, a lack of confidence initially held him back. It was at this juncture that fate intervened, leading him to Chronoswiss, then owned and operated by Gerd-Rüdiger Lang in Munich. Chronowiss and Lang could be a long story in itself since Lang had mentored and influenced a lot of the next generation of watchmakers and brands. In 1991, 21-year-old Schnelle approached Lang, and it paid off when Lang entrusted the young newcomer with a significant project – creating a series of 99 escapement models. Schnelle officially started his career in the watchmaking industry as a supplier to Chronoswiss, later becoming a freelancer for the Bavarian brand. In 1995, Schnelle completed his watchmaking studies in Würzburg, and had the honor to be recognized as Germany’s best young watchmaker in competition. He continued to work as a freelancer for Chronoswiss until 2012, when Lang sold the company to the Ebstein family in Switzerland. Schnelle also repaired Cartier Tank watches for nearly 20 years for the Richemont group. He even took on side projects like milling air stream chambers for Infineon, and offering his technical design services. In August 2024, I visited Schnelle at his home atelier in Munich, and his workshop was filled with photographs, technical de...
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Monochrome
The IWC Ingenieur collection has long been one of the pillars of the Schaffhausen-based brand’s reputation, even if the spotlight often seems to shine brighter on the emblematic Pilot series. In recent years, IWC collections like the Pilot, Portugieser, Portofino, and, to a lesser extent, the Aquatimer have steadily introduced new references, leaving the Ingenieur line seemingly in the shadows. For a […]
Worn & Wound
The post Just A Minute With The New Tissot PRX 25mm appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
We've put together a Greatest Hits album of musical watch collaborations that continue to chart in the minds of enthusiasts.The post The Time+Tide Team picks their favourite musical watch collaborations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
If a dog is a man’s best friend, can a watch be his second-best friend? What boxes would this watch need to tick? Well, let’s not idolize material goods quite to that degree. But still, having a watch that can confidently accompany you through everything life throws your way can certainly create a deep appreciation […] Visit Introducing: The Alpina × Fratello Alpiner Extreme Regulator to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Though I’m still confused on the pronunciation of Porsche (is it porsch or porsh-uh?), there is no mistaking the impact the brand has had on the automotive and design worlds. And, what the hell, let’s throw the watch world in, too, for good measure. Since 1972, with the release of the first all-black chronograph, Porsche Design has been producing watches that might take the sting out of not being able to afford a brand-new 911. Now, with their latest iteration, the Chronograph 1–F.A.T. 2025 Edition, we see both the evolution of Porsche Design’s timepieces while also a nod to their own heritage. Taking the design principles of Ferdinand Porsche, the design team built almost an inversion of the original Chronograph 1 from the 70’s. While they have maintained 40.8mm black titanium carbide case, they’ve inverted the design with a white dial. Not only is this a first for Porsche Design’s watches, but it also serves a functional purpose: the dial is completely coated in white Super-LumiNova, making it readable in total darkness. This is one example of how the Chronograph 1 – F.A.T. sits right at the meeting point between form and functionality. It’s the hidden Easter eggs of this watch that show how proud Porsche is of their heritage. Take, for instance, a Porsche 962 silhouette on the hour counter and a subtle “962” on the 6 o’clock subdial. One of my favorites is the F.A.T. International logo appears under the date, while the English day display replace...
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