Hodinkee
Introducing: The Longines HydroConquest GMT
For the first time, Longines' modern dive watch gets a GMT.
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Hodinkee
For the first time, Longines' modern dive watch gets a GMT.
Worn & Wound
Longines’ polarizing dive watch collection, the HydroConquest, has received a major overhaul from the Swatch Group brand, featuring a GMT compilation for the first time since 2007. This is still a true dive capable watch through and through, integrating the GMT component in a more subtle manner than you might imagine. As we’ve come to expect from Longines recently, this new collection is kicking off with a plethora of earth tone color schemes, and multiple strap options. There is some retro-inspiration happening here, but this one doesn’t feel like a throwback. If you weren’t fond of the 5 stars of the dial of the Zulu Time, this might be the one you’ve been waiting for. The new HydroConquest is built within a steel case that measures 41mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, and places a large rotating bezel assembly front and center. Rather than placing the 24 hour scale on the bezel, they’ve reserved this element for the watch’s diving ambitions, and it is graduated to the minutes as you might expect. The 24 hour scale is moved to the rehaut at the perimeter of the dial, and is bi-color to separate the halves of the day. It’s a graceful implementation that retains enough functionality to be practical, though perhaps not quite as quick to read at a glance compared to other GMT watches. Moving into the dial things get a bit more interesting still, with some unusual but welcome decisions being made that help this watch stand on its own. First, the dial ...
Time+Tide
The Blancpain Ladybird Colors collection has been expanded with this rainbow gradient reference. It comes with five colours of alligator leather straps, so you can tone the playfulness up or down depending on your mood. The case is made from 18k white gold, and is set with 59 diamonds. When Blancpain released the Ladybird in … ContinuedThe post The new rainbow Blancpain Ladybird Colors offer a playful sense of glamour with a 100-hour power reserve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The new Swatch Bioceramic What If? collection imagines their 1983 debut was square instead of round. It merges ‘80s style with modern eco-friendly materials such as bioceramic. Four watches are available in green, black, grey and beige. The exploration of alternate and parallel universes has definitely become one of the most interesting pop culture trends … ContinuedThe post The new Swatch Bioceramic What If? collection reimagines their round 1983 debut as square appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Norqain Neverest Glacier returns with two rocky-faced references. The 41mm GMT model and 40mm three-hand model are decorated with rose gold running through their cracked surfaces. 10% of the sales will go to the Butterfly Help Project, housing and educating the families of sherpas who died on Mount Everest. As a brand focused on … ContinuedThe post Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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At this point, Watches & Wonders 2023 feels like it was both yesterday and a year ago. Ultimately, it’s well away in the rear view mirror. Four months later, however, it becomes clear which novelties were the big standouts. It’s the ones still stuck in your mind after the excitement of the fair has passed, … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Chronograph arguably won Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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After two years of waiting, fans of the Arken Instrumentum have finally received a followup from the microbrand. At the time, it was one of the best-specced titanium divers around for the money, and the new Arken Alterum has a lot to live up to. Now that titanium has become a lot more prevalent in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Alterum is a dive-ready GMT in lightweight titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Longines museum in St-Imier showcases the brand’s illustrious history in the form of 500 timepieces, navigational instruments and timekeeping devices. Unfortunately, in this luckily fictitious scenario, the museum is on fire! Daniel Hug, Longines Head of Brand Heritage, can only save three watches before the whole place goes up in smoke. “Oh my God!” … ContinuedThe post The Longines Museum is on fire! Which three watches should be saved? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Unobtanium. It is a word many collectors use these days, with more and more references fitting this gloomy bill. It sucks to know that when certain brands release new watches, your chances of getting one at retail are quite slim, short of a long buyer’s history or a big dose of luck. So the question … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual lacquer dials continue to attract an A-list crowd – a definitive list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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So. I have detailed the first stop of my trip to Japan with Grand Seiko at the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi – the home of all things 9S mechanical. Then we returned back to Ginza from Morioka, and swung by the Seiko Museum Ginza to get intimate with the history of the corporation and the … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 3: The Seiko House Ginza (Wako Main Building) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The WHAT IF…? idea is a versatile one, concerned with wishful thinking, hopes of market-changing releases, and nostalgic pleas. Sometimes, however, it might as well be called WHY NOT…?, and this is the case today. In a recent writers’ meeting, there was discussion of G-Shock, and more particularly the proposition of a solid gold one, … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… Casio made the gold G-Shock a (more) regular thing? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
“So marvelous, so delicate was the bouquet, it seemed an impertinence to go further and taste this miraculous liquid; and yet, on the palate it almost made one regret the waste of time the moments spent in taking in the perfume.” Ken Gargett didn't write that, but he feels the same way about the fabulous wines of Burgundy. Find out here why this is the golden age for this region.
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At lunchtime on Wednesday, two men and a woman walked into the Piaget store in Paris’ Rue de la Paix, situated just around the corner from the Place Vendôme. The trio were described by eyewitnesses as being “smarty dressed” – the men wearing grey suits and the woman in a green dress. Once inside the … ContinuedThe post Gun-toting thieves steal up to US$16 million worth of watches and jewellery from Piaget store in Paris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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We are really feeling the heat of summer in the Northern hemisphere, and it seems that the watch industry feels the same. Compared to last week, this one has been rather quiet as far as new watch releases – which makes sense considering most people in Europe are taking holidays. However, some long-awaited timepieces, especially … ContinuedThe post New releases from Tissot, Christopher Ward and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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To solid caseback, or exhibition caseback, that is the question. Or at least it was the question Fergus raised when they wrote the latest Making the Case column, arguing for solid casebacks to make a comeback. We thought the solid versus exhibition caseback dilemma would be very divisive, and after taking the query to Instagram it is … ContinuedThe post AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Rolex discontinuing the modern Milgauss. An auction record for a vintage version. It's time to ask: What in the world is up with the 'scientist's watch'?
Time+Tide
Once upon a time, when Chat GPT made its debut and artificial intelligence became a point of mainstream discussion, we decided to let former president of the USA Donald Trump take a stab at writing a review of the Rolex Submariner. Well, an artificial intelligence pretending to be Trump that is. We do not have … ContinuedThe post We asked Chat GPT to review the Doxa SUB 300 in the voice of Matthew McConaughey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Wear your watch on your left wrist. Don’t pair a diving watch with a tuxedo. Match the colour of your watch strap with the leather of your shoes… There are plenty of purported “watch rules”, most of which are widely ignored (often with some justification). But now there’s a niche issue that’s getting people on … ContinuedThe post TikTok is going crazy about people wearing Apple watches at weddings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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First of all I’d like to apologise for the punny title – it was simply too tempting. Slated to take place from August 16-23, the EveryWatch charity auction is a collaborative effort between Edinburgh’s Lyon & Turnbull auction house, fellow enthusiasts over at Scottish Watches, and nine independent brands whose great generosity is set to … ContinuedThe post Only Watch out – EveryWatch is the new piece unique auction in town appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The expression do not bite the hand that feeds you is an international turn of phrase. In the same vein, you never want to piss off the person who cuts your hair. It is good to keep your barber happy to ensure you always get the clean haircut you are looking for – rather than leave the … ContinuedThe post Jake Paul tips his barber with a US$11K Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There are those rare times when the watch industry seemingly comes together to do something great, causing even the most devoted online trolls to retreat beneath their virtual bridges and save us from their dubious wisdom. One such occasion is the Only Watch charity auction, running since 2005 and created to benefit those affected by … ContinuedThe post Borna’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Wandering hours has become an essential part of Urwerk's DNA. Unlike any other brand out there, they have explored, lived through, and lost sleep over wandering hours. Over the years, Urwerk have introduced different varieties of this way of displaying time, of which the UR-120 is one of the most spectacular.
Worn & Wound
I have to start this review by being honest about something: I don’t spend a lot of time thinking about calendar watches. I just don’t. When I think “calendar watch,” for some reason that I can’t quite put my finger on, my mind jumps to “perpetual calendar,” even though a watch with a simple date function is also technically a calendar watch as well. My curse, I guess, is that I immediately start thinking about a complication that is, for the most part, completely out of my reach. So when someone says there’s a cool new calendar watch to check out (I can count on one hand the number of times this has actually happened) I’m usually less interested than if someone were to, for example, suggest we go out and get dumplings at the Chinese restaurant down the street, or go see Oppenheimer for a second time, or some combination of those two things. The other problem, because I tend to associate the very idea of calendar watches with the most complex watches in production, is that when talk turns to calendars, I think of very expensive service costs. A local watch friend once owned a vintage triple calendar made by one of the most respected and admired Swiss brands. It broke, and the bill was, how can I put it this…kind of brutal. Again, not something I want in my life. This line of thinking, of course, is deeply unfair, and a bias that I freely admit and am trying to break out of. A new watch from MAEN, a Swedish brand with a Dutch name, reminded me rece...
Time+Tide
Despite what some marketing departments would have you think, there’s almost never such a thing as a centuries-old watch brand with an unbroken history. Whether it’s a change of ownership, bankruptcy during the Quartz Crisis, or a pivot to an entirely different technology, consistent survival as a watch brand requires adaptation. Raketa don’t come up … ContinuedThe post From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
You could say there are one of a few ways to make a dive watch stand out – a unique design, a superior movement, an unbeatable price/value ratio, or all of the above. Unfortunately, unique often means expensive, even though the brand cannot always truly justify the why. Often, it’s the fact that something is … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Helicon paints the sunset with the 62 Master Blue Hour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Ball Roadmaster First Responder is designed to save lives on the wrists of paramedics and first responders. The inner bezel can be turned by twisting the outer bezel, reducing the need to fiddle with other timing devices. The scales on the chapter ring allow for calculating pulse and breaths per minute. Demanding situations call … ContinuedThe post The Ball Roadmaster First Responder shows that mechanical watches can even save lives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Only Watch auction not only benefits a great cause (Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research), but it’s also an event that really lets watchmakers run rampant and show off their horological chops. It’s almost like the watch world’s version of the Met Gala, where designers can truly cut loose, free of the bonds of commerce, and … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
We’re back with a fresh episode of A Week In Watches, covering news from Norqain, Oris, Vulcain, and of course, Linde Werdelin. Additionally, it wouldn’t be a new week without a new collaboration to discuss, and this time it comes courtesy of our friends at Massena LAB and Revolution Magazine in the form of a new, mostly original take on the Uni-Racer Chronograph. Elsewhere, Oris returns to the baseball field to honor the great Milwaukee (okay, and Atlanta) Brave, Hank Aaron with a new colorway of their Big Crown Pointer Date. Another unique configuration of an existing watch released this week is a new Octo Moonphase from Linde Werdelin, who still have a knack for killer case architecture and open dial work. A favorite release this weeks comes from Vulcain, who is once again bringing back the Nautical Cricket, a diving alarm watch with a gnarly inner bezel which includes a full decompression table. This is a historic watch that’s more than just a novelty, it’s got some serious pedigree under its belt that dates back to the early ’60s. Plus, it offers two caseback options, a move we rarely see at this price point. Keep an eye out for more on that one coming soon. Until then, enjoy this week’s episode below. A quick note on a programming change with A Week In Watches: this series will be moving to a bi-monthly format, allowing us more time to bring you a broader selection of curated news, at an even better production quality. A lot of work goes into creating the...
Time+Tide
Will Patek Philippe ever introduce a Nautilus ref. 5811/1A? Will Rolex ever debut a Submariner in RLX titanium? These are questions with uncertain answers. But one thing that is certain is #watchfam having strong opinions. Nothing gets by watch enthusiasts and, with each new release, a flurry of passionate comments on Instagram is inevitable. So, … ContinuedThe post We asked you for your controversial watch opinions – here are some standouts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Timepiece repairs can be expensive and often take a long time, so you generally want to avoid damaging a watch. Here John Keil lists five common things you may not be aware of that can damage a watch and how to prevent them.
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