Time+Tide
The new Christopher Ward C60 Trident Biscay looks back across six decades of diving
Tom gets hands-on with the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Biscay, a 1960s-inspired dive watch collection in steel and marine-grade bronze.
Results for Moebius Watch Oils
21,506 articles · 216 videos found · page 278 of 725
Time+Tide
Fratello
Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm
The Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm is a clear example of watch evolution. It’s proof that progress is less about changing the design than refining what is already there. The 39mm case, its proportions, design, and overall presence on the wrist remain unchanged. Why change a winning “team” when the 39mm Essence is the brand’s […] Visit Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Straum Expedition
What We Know Straum has launched a new take on their integrated bracelet sports watch this week, shifting the focus from evoking nature to getting out and exploring. Fittingly named, the Expedition is the first watch in a new collection which Straum is calling "Built For". This will stand as a second pillar in the brand's offering, alongside the "Inspired By" collection, under which umbrella all the brand's previous releases fall. The most obvious visual cue that something here has changed is the redesigned dial, which swaps the deeply textured, colorful approach of previous Straum releases for a much more utilitarian vocabulary. With bright orange accents, huge amounts of lume, and subtly grained but largely flat dials, the emphasis is less on pure aesthetic appeal and more on legibility and practicality. The same approach has been taken with the case, which has been redesigned, but again, in largely subtle ways. The Grade 5 titanium case — which measures 38.2mm across, 45.7mm lug-to-lug, and is 11mm thick — has been reworked with broader case flanks, a stepped bezel, and a significantly enlarged screw-down crown meant to be usable in the cold or with gloves on. All together, the Expedition is decidedly new, but still clearly and recognizably a Straum. By default, the new watch comes fitted with a black FKM strap, though a new fully Grade 5 titanium case is also available for a modest upcharge, and since the watch uses Straum's strap system, any pre-existing straps an...
Worn & Wound
Ming Introduces a New Take on the Worldtimer, the 57.05 Comet
It’s somewhat hard to believe (well, hard for me to believe, anyway) but 2026 marks the ninth year of Ming. If you had told me in the earliest days of the brand in 2017 that less than a decade later they’d factor in as one of the more important independent watch brands of their era, I’m not sure how I’d have reacted. For me, the early days were a tough sell. Ming had trouble meeting demand for their watches in those first years, which can be a good problem to have of course, but can also lead to all kinds of issues with would-be customers as the expectations game gets played out in public. They’ve solved for that largely with smart planning, and a release strategy that sees a mix of accessible pieces with more haute horlogerie oriented fare, all with a design language that is immediately recognizable and all their own. To celebrate their ninth anniversary, Ming has introduced 57.05 Comet, a watch that features a worldtimer, one of the brand’s favorite complications, in an interesting new way. It’s also the latest watch in their fifth-generation design language, which incorporates a genuinely unique take on their own flying blade lugs, twisted with deep Art Deco tropes. According to Ming, the 57.05 takes its name from the de Havilland Comet, which aviation enthusiasts will recognize right away as the world’s first commercial jet airliner. The watch, like many worldtimers, is meant as both a useful aid to travelers and an ode of sorts to a more romantic e...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Maison Alcée x MB&F; Nostromo
What We Know Maison Alcée jumped headlong into the watch community consciousness in 2023, winning the GPHG 'Audacity Prize' in recognition of the brand's unique do-it-yourself, high horology, clock-building kits. Championed by Ben, who served on the GPHG jury that year, the French husband-and-wife team of Alcée and Benoit Montfort went on to craft a highly successful LE collaboration with Hodinkee (with lume!) that quickly sold out. Now Alcée and Benoit are back with another collaboration that takes their clock-making kit to the next level. Collaborating with MB&F;, who have long supported Maison Alcée by showcasing and selling their work at their Mad Gallery locations, the Maison Alcée x MB&F; Nostromo leans hard into the well-established alien aesthetic the Geneva-based creative force is known for. Adding to the intrigue is that this clock was designed by MB&F;'s Creative Designer, Maximilian Maertens. He's the young German who is slowly and purposefully starting to take the lead on some of MB&F;'s pieces, as Max Büsser begins to step back and give up a bit of creative control over the collective brand project he founded more than two decades ago. So what makes this Maison Alcée kit interesting and different? It's certainly expressive of the MB&F; design language, with the arched base legs or feet giving it an extraterrestrial personality. Maertens says he's a fan of and inspired by the late Swiss artist H.R. Giger (check out the wild Giger Museum in Gruyères if y...
Hodinkee
Dispatch: Diving With Force Blue And Luminox For Reef Restoration In Miami
Luminox is honoring its partnership with Force Blue by releasing a new Pacific Diver reference designed around the pair's shared mission to protect and rehabilitate the world's oceans. Luminox has a long history of working with branches of the US Military since their founding in 1989, but their relationship with Force Blue is a bit different. To better understand their mission and get a first look at a new watch built around the partnership, I hopped on a plane down to Miami with fins and mask in hand, ready to dive with the team. Many brands claim working relationships with military outfits, each with varying degrees of formality. Whether it's a licensed relationship to use military trademarks, or even individual service members using their personal watches, the link between a brand and the act of service can be difficult to judge at a glance. For Luminox, that connection was baked in from the get-go. In 1992, founder Barry Cohen worked with Assistant Research, Development, Test and Evaluation (RDT&E;) Officer Nick North to develop a watch specifically for the Navy SEALs using their tritium tube-based Luminox Light Technology (LLT). The Navy SEAL watch was the first stone in what would become a broad foundation of work with special forces and law enforcement groups worldwide. It's a foundation that Mondain would continue to lean on after acquiring a stake in the brand in 2006 and full ownership in 2016. Today, Luminox maintains a licensing relationship with the US Navy SEA...
Fratello
Tantalizing Tantalum: The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò
Truth be told, the original Atelier Wen Inflection already felt like a statement. A young brand executing an integrated-bracelet sports watch in 99.9% pure tantalum, pairing it with grand feu enamel, and backing it with a customized Girard-Perregaux movement was ambitious. Now comes the Inflection Shuò, a collaboration with New York-based Massena Lab that elevates […] Visit Tantalizing Tantalum: The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Bell & Ross BR-X5 Meteorite
With the introduction of its BR-01 model in 2005, Bell & Ross took flight with its graphic, cockpit-inspired design language, translated into the brand’s signature circle-within-a-square geometry. In 2019, the brand ventured into less military, more urban terrain with its BR-05, a luxury integrated sports watch. As with the transition from the BR-01 to the […]
SJX Watches
The Ming 57.05 Comet Springs Forward
Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Ming has introduced the 57.05 Comet, a DST-compatible worldtimer with a clever two-piece bezel. The Comet also upholds the long tradition of worldtimers with decorative dials, in this case with a dynamic interference pattern that changes throughout the day. Initial thoughts There are few complications that embody jet-set optimism like the Cottier-style worldtimer, with its noble ambition to create a unified view of the time everywhere on Earth. This inspiration is ever-present in the 57.05 Comet, which takes its name from the world’s first passenger jet, the de Havilland Comet. Interestingly, the worldtime format was partially obsolete even before Cottier came up with his ingenious display in 1931, due to adoption of what we now call Daylight Saving Time (DST) in several Western countries around 1918. I’ve always resented the fact that DST significantly reduces the effectiveness of one of the most elegant complications in watchmaking. Some brands have proposed solutions to this issue, but often the result is overly complex or visually cluttered. Ming’s solution is so intuitive it seems obvious in retrospect, with a two-piece bezel that moves DST observers 15 degrees counterclockwise in the summer to align with the correct hour. Summer mode is indicated by a cut-out in the mobile section of the bezel that reveals a (slightly) luminous red indicator. To be clear, it’s not a perfect solution, since different countries begin and end DST obse...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Ming's New 57.05 'Comet' Worldtime Is Out Of This World Innovation
What We Know It feels like Ming has another hit on its hands here. The new 57.05 "Comet" immediately looked like a cool watch before I even looked at the press release, but once you dig into the specifics, it's pretty impressive, with all the usual Ming flair to boot. That means, yes, there's a pretty cool dial (that has a touch of vintage inspiration). There's an intensely stylized case. There's lume used aplenty (and creatively), and yes, there's innovation in a new patent-pending daylight saving time (DST) world time adjustment system. Let's start from the outside and work our way in. The 316L stainless steel case measures 40mm by 10.3mm with a 47.8mm lug-to-lug. This is a part of Ming's 57 Series design language, so it's got triple-stepped lugs (requiring nine individual components for the lug construction). The next step is the world time bezel. That's where the magic really starts. With a normal 24-hour world time display, you can get by just fine. Yes, not all DST adjustments happen at the same time (if they happen at all), but adjusting for any of them is a problem. Ming has arranged all cities with DST on the outer bezel; non-DST cities are on the inner bezel. You can rotate the outer bezel one click (15º) to move only the DST cities forward by one hour against the 24-hour scale. The bezel will stay fixed in either position, but if you're trying to figure out whether or not DST is engaged or not, you can just look at the small aperture between eight and nine on t...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Maison Alcée x MB&F; Nostromo, an Alien-Like Creation to Build Yourself
Just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, MB&F; has teamed up with Maison Alcée to release a wonderful build-it-yourself mechanical desk clock. Celebrating the 15th anniversary of MB&F;’s M.A.D. Gallery, the two brands have collaborated on Nostromo, an alien-like creature that reflects MB&F;’s passion for extraterrestrial design and Maison Alcée’s dexterity in producing DIY desk clock […]
Hodinkee
Business News: Middle East War Forces The Escapement To Cancel Abu Dhabi Event And Move To Las Vegas
Organizers of The Escapement, a planned gathering aimed at attracting thousands of watch collectors and enthusiasts, featuring major independent brands and scheduled for November in Abu Dhabi, canceled the event due to corporate travel restrictions related to the ongoing military conflict in the Middle East. They say they will now stage the three-day show in Las Vegas in February, 2027. Neeshu Hajra, a U.S.-based luxury event-planning executive who is among the shareholders of the group organizing the event, said some watch brands and executives would have been unable to attend the show at the Etihad Arena in Abu Dhabi due to travel policies affected by the ongoing war in the region. The Escapement will now hold its inaugural event next year at the T-Mobile Arena in Las Vegas from February 5 to 7. "Our decision was mainly made due to corporate travel policies that affected certain brands and the ability to come. Ultimately, because this is our inaugural edition, we want to make sure that we have the strongest showing and the best surface area for success," Hajra said in an interview. "The community experience in its totality, both leading up to the event and on site, led us to really believe in Vegas," he added. Biver watches is one of the many brands expected to exhibit at The Escapement. The event's cancellation and rescheduling underscore the challenges and disruptions to global business and the watch industry amid military conflicts in the Middle East and Ukrai...
Fratello
Streaking Through The Heavens With The New Ming 57.05 Comet
Well, you never know what you’ll find when opening an email from Ming. This time, it’s the new 57.05 Comet, a stirring take on a worldtimer with a couple of party tricks up its sleeve. While I haven’t seen this watch in the metal, I’ve certainly spent enough time with the brand’s other offerings to […] Visit Streaking Through The Heavens With The New Ming 57.05 Comet to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - By Popular Choice… The new Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver “Fan-Selected” HBC011
Last year marked the 60th anniversary of the first-ever dive watch created by Seiko, the now-emblematic 62MAS model. Still a great source of inspiration for the brand, its clean and purposeful design has been modernised to be the basis for the creation of the contemporary yet retro-inspired Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver 300m. Last year, the […]
Monochrome
Just Because - Carved in Titanium, the Fully-Engraved Urwerk UR-1001 Amadeus
There’s nothing conventional at Urwerk, and hardly any watch feels classic. Even the watch with the most traditional display of the time, the UR-10 SpaceMeter, remains some sort of a horological UFO for the wrist. And when you move from the wrist to the pocket, the brand becomes even more expressive, as exemplified by the extraordinary […]
SJX Watches
Longines Masters The Monopusher
The Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher is a compelling showcase of the brand’s industrial expertise and increasingly compelling value proposition. The watch pairs 1930s charm with a thoroughly modern manually wound monopusher chronograph. The advanced calibre is complemented by a richly textured dial — in soft blue or warm silver — that features period-inspired pulsometer typography and applied numerals. Initial thoughts The Master Monopusher is illustrative of the industrial transformation that has taken place over the past decade at Longines. Like its rival Tudor, Longines has aggressively moved to incorporate advanced features like silicon hairsprings to create distance between itself and the ever-growing roster of brands that rely on more generic movement platforms that are widely available from suppliers like Sellita and La Joux-Perret. A decade ago, Longines’ latest and greatest monopusher chronograph had an industry-standard Nivarox hairspring, and was adjusted by means of a generic curb-pin regulator. Power reserve was a reasonable — but unimpressive — 54 hours. Fast-forward to today, and every one of these details has been meaningfully upgraded, giving consumers and collectors a reason to choose a mainstream powerhouse over an independent start-up. The advanced technical content results in an attractive value at US$3,900, a price that undercuts rivals like Montblanc that offer similar monopushers. Furthermore, that’s less money — in both ...
Worn & Wound
Indies NYC is Getting Charitable with a New Initiative Supporting Watchmaking Schools
In 2024, Jon Cruys – a collector and RedBar veteran among other pursuits in the watch industry – embarked on his next horological endeavor and founded a new twist on the traditional watch fair called Indies NYC. Unlike typical tradeshows, Indies NYC does not sell exhibition space to the brands who showcase there. Instead, it scouts independent watchmaking talent who deserve greater visibility and creates a space where they can display their talents, passion, and, of course, creations in New York City. What began as an intimate, invite-only salon highlighting a small handful of independent brands has grown in short order. The next event is set for October 15 of this year and will include a whopping 20 brands. Still, the essence remains the same – a place for artisan watchmakers and collectors to chat and connect over a shared love for the art of watchmaking. But here’s the real headline: in addition to expanding the biannual salon, Indies NYC is charting into new territory with a charitable component. The event has just introduced its “1% for the Next Generation” initiative, which will go live at the upcoming October installment. This new program helps to bridge the gap between the education of future watchmakers and the growth of independent watchmaking. Beginning this October, 1% of the profit from every watch sold through Indies NYC will go to a watchmaking school chosen by the artisan watchmaker behind the piece. The new next gen program will initially i...
Monochrome
First Look - The Updated Longines Master Collection now gets Light Blue Dials
The Longines Master Collection is, without a doubt, one of the brand’s most important ranges, with the mission to mix traditional mechanical watchmaking and everyday usability. The brand’s one watch collection, if you will. First presented in 2005, it has been entirely revamped earlier this year with revised cases, new dial patterns, reshaped hands and […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Beta "Frogger" (Live Pics)
What We Know If you thought Doxa was done for the summer, well, we've got one more for you, and it's a good one at that. Made in collaboration with San Diego–based jeweler and watch dealer Belmont Watches, Doxa has reinvented the Sub 300 Beta, bringing a decidedly military execution to its most fashion-forward model, directly inspired by San Diego's longstanding military history. If you're slightly surprised to hear that last part (maybe because when you think of San Diego you think of beaches, surfing, golf, the Padres, or the San Diego Zoo), trust me when I tell you that San Diego is a proper military town, with a significant Navy, Marine, and Coast Guard presence. It is also — most importantly for this watch — the home of Naval Amphibious Base Coronado, and with it, SEAL Team 1. This watch pays homage to that team's predecessors, the Navy Underwater Demolition Team (UDT), better known as Frogmen, from whom the ranks of the original SEAL Team 1 were populated. So, what does that look like? Well, in this case, it means reinterpreting the existing Doxa Sub 300 Beta with a fatigue-esque kelp-green grained dial, a handset straight off the Doxa Army (as seen recently on our own limited edition with Doxa), and a first-of-its-kind (for Doxa) fully sandblasted stainless steel case and bracelet. Like other watches in the Sub 300 Beta lineup, the "Frogger" is thinner than you'd expect from a Doxa diver, at 11.95mm, but otherwise retains proportions similar to the 300T, measu...
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher Review: Defiantly Retro and Under $4K
The new Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher is a mechanically complex watch in a dressy package and an accessible price point.
Monochrome
First Look - Omega Refreshes the Speedmaster 38mm Collection, Including a Moonwatch-Like Black No-Date (with Video)
When talking about the Speedmaster, most watch enthusiasts will immediately think about “The One”, the legendary Moonwatch Professional model. An evolution of the concept launched in 1957, the first watch worn on the Moon, and the only watch ever approved for NASA’s missions to the Moon, this iconic watch is only one element of a vast collection […]
Worn & Wound
Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition
You know, I actually wasn’t going to write about this watch. An $18,000 vintage inspired dive watch from a brand that doesn’t hold a ton of personal relevance to me was just not super high on my list of priorities as Geneva Watch Days prep is now in full swing (this time next week, I will be surviving on CHF 10 Coke Zeros). But, over the weekend the collective watch internet kind of lost its mind over the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition, so I shifted my to-do list around a bit and, well, here we are. Of course, there have been a lot of memes and jokes about this watch sharing a certain similarity to the Seiko 62MAS and the many, many reinterpretations and reissues of that watch over the years. I’m frankly less interested in those aesthetic similarities than I am in the very conceit of this watch, what it illuminates about Blancpain, and the way it fits into the neverending conversation around price sensitivity that we’ve been having for months as we see MSRPs shoot higher and higher. But what I’ll say about the appearance of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition is simply that, at this point, 70 years on from the advent of this type of watch, I don’t think any brand really owns the aesthetic identity of something so generic. Lots and lots of watches from all kinds of brands look like this, just like lots and lots of watches look like a Speedmaster, or a Calatrava. The design tropes of these wat...
Fratello
The New Straum Expedition: Built For Those Who Crave Adventure
Are you looking for a watch representing the overwhelmingly beautiful scenes of Norwegian nature? Straum has you covered with the Jan Mayen line. But what if you want a watch to actually wear on an adventure or expedition to experience Norwegian nature firsthand? That’s where the new Straum Expedition comes in. The new Expedition is […] Visit The New Straum Expedition: Built For Those Who Crave Adventure to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All-Titanium, Now With Leather Straps
Small changes can go a long way, but when a watch goes from bracelet-only (sort of) to a leather strap, it can go a very long way. Especially when said watch is a true pioneer in the field, with historical relevance and iconic design importance. Sounds like a bold claim, but when it comes to the […]
Deployant
New: Henri Grandjean Magician Atrivm in Red and Green Sapphire
Discover the Henri Grandjean Magician Atrivm in red and green sapphire. Explore the CHF 990,000 mysterious triple-axis tourbillon watch specs.
Fratello
The Evolution Of “Ultimate Simplicity” - Introducing The Minase Mastercraft J3
As time passes, you often accumulate stuff. Visualize what’s in your attic, and you’ll know what I’m talking about. Now, Minase is doing the opposite. The new J3 is a model inspired by the M3, but instead of adding details to that watch, Minase removes what it deems unnecessary. You’re looking at the evolution of […] Visit The Evolution Of “Ultimate Simplicity” — Introducing The Minase Mastercraft J3 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Jacques Bianchi x Olympique de Marseille OM200, a Natural Connection
French brand Jacques Bianchi comes from a military diving background dating back to the 1980s and 1990s, with its watches promising superior legibility and a practical design. The JB200 Diver was initially developed for the French Navy’s diving units, and that case has since become the foundation for the brand’s modern dive watches. The watch […]
Fratello
Why I Bought The Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710
This summer, I finally realized a lifelong dream — owning a Rolex GMT-Master II. More specifically, I always wanted Rolex’s famous pilot and traveler’s watch with a red-and-blue bezel. As fate would have it, I bought mine the same year Rolex discontinued that configuration from the current catalog. That decision didn’t influence my purchase, though. […] Visit Why I Bought The Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710 to read the full article.
Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier And The Collector’s Path Beyond The Obvious Brands
The journey of a watch collector often unfolds like the passage of time itself. In many ways, it is sequential, but it is often marked by profound moments of discovery. For so many of us, we begin our collecting journey by learning about the well-known names. Brands such as Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe rise […] Visit Parmigiani Fleurier And The Collector’s Path Beyond The Obvious Brands to read the full article.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Four Captivating Watches With Inverted Movements
For those with a passion for mechanics, like surely many us have, there’s something magical about seeing a watch movement run. Seeing a whole bunch of minuscule parts working in perfect harmony to tell time, and well beyond just the passing of hours, minutes and seconds, just never gets old. With the vast majority of […]