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Hacking Seconds

Stop-seconds lever for precise time-setting. WWII military origin, Rolex Cal. 1570/1575 non-hacking lineage, Cal. 3135 standard.

12 Of Our Favorite Sector-Dial Watches, From Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 17, 2026

12 Of Our Favorite Sector-Dial Watches, From Affordable to Luxury

As their name implies, sector-dial watches are recognizable for their vintage-inspired dial layout, with radial lines and concentric circles dividing the dial’s essential visual data - the hours, minutes, and seconds - into distinct segments. It’s a style that first made its way into watch design in the 1930s and ‘40s, the heyday of Art Deco, and at the time was almost certainly aimed at delivering an instrument-like legibility rather than any kind of stylish ornamentation. Today, however, the sector dial is enjoying a bit of a quiet renaissance mainly for aesthetic reasons, on a diverse array of timepieces. Whether the watch it adorns leans more toward “military tool” or “dressy accessory” in its appeal, the sector dial’s streamlined, subdivided look has proved to be anything but dated. Here are a dozen of our favorites on the market now.  [toc-section heading="Seiko 5 Sports SRPH29"] Price: $315, Case Size: 39.4mm, Thickness: 13.2mm, Lug to Lug: 48.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic 4R36 Seiko’s 5 Sports line takes its cues from a classic model from 1963, the Seiko 5 Sportsmatic, whose five named attributes include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case made of durable materials. The value-oriented series speaks to military mavens and aviation enthusiasts with the SRPH29 model, which straddles the line between a v...

A Closer Look At COSC’s New Excellence Chronometer Certification Fratello
Feb 17, 2026

A Closer Look At COSC’s New Excellence Chronometer Certification

Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) is the largest Swiss independent testing facility for watch movements. Founded in 1973, this non-profit foundation aims to guarantee the precision of Swiss watches through a neutral, independent, and rigorous method. Watches with movements that passed the tests can be called “COSC-certified chronometers,” accurate to within -4/+6 seconds per […] Visit A Closer Look At COSC’s New Excellence Chronometer Certification to read the full article.

COSC Upgrades Standards to Certify More Than Timekeeping SJX Watches
Rolex Feb 13, 2026

COSC Upgrades Standards to Certify More Than Timekeeping

Interesting news just out of Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the venerable Swiss chronometer testing body, which has just announced a major revamp to its testing to honour the COSC’s standard’s 50th anniversary. Excellence Chronometer, COSC’s new and improved certification program, goes beyond the ISO 3159 norm that has defined its tests for decades. Instead of just testing movements, Excellence Chronometer will require completed, cased watches to run within -2/+4 seconds a day, as well as pass wear simulation and magnetism tests. Initial thoughts While COSC remains the primary chronometer testing body in Switzerland, thanks largely to Rolex, its protocols have been due for an update for some time now. With the rise of alternative and in-house precision testing programs, the standard chronometer certification can sometimes feel left behind. Rolex’s own Superlative Chronometer certification first requires a COSC certificate, but then makes sure the watches run at -2/+2 seconds per day after further in-house testing. The METAS Chronometer program also requires the standard COSC certificate, but guarantees a regulation of 0/+5 seconds per day and a great resistance to magnetic fields. Seeing that COSC slowly updates and imposes more stringent criteria is a good sign, but it may still not be good enough. With the rise of advanced internal certification programs, it looks like some brands submit their models to COSC testing just to make sure they can...

The Petrolhead Corner – Three-in-a-Row For Porsche, As The Penske Factory Team Wins The Rolex 24 At Daytona 2026 Monochrome
Rolex 24 Jan 31, 2026

The Petrolhead Corner – Three-in-a-Row For Porsche, As The Penske Factory Team Wins The Rolex 24 At Daytona 2026

It seems like a trend that endurance races are won with only seconds between the podium finishers. We’ve seen it in this year’s Dakar, where Luciano Benavides won the Bikes class with just two seconds difference over second-place man Ricky Brabec. We’ve seen it in last year’s Rolex 24 at Daytona, where the entire podium […]

Why I Bought The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time I Jan 30, 2026

Why I Bought The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time

I had to drive from Amsterdam to Brussels in 2015 to see the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time with deadbeat seconds in the metal. It was worth it. Both the three-handed Geophysic True Second and Universal Time impressed me a lot, especially the travel watch with a world-map dial and a practical complication. Upon learning […] Visit Why I Bought The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Vostra Vector: A Retro-Futuristic Chronograph That’s Built To Be Worn Fratello
Jan 18, 2026

Hands-On With The Vostra Vector: A Retro-Futuristic Chronograph That’s Built To Be Worn

There’s a certain kind of satisfaction that only a chronograph can offer - the tactile click of the pushers, the sweep of the seconds hand, the quiet excuse to time things that probably do not need timing at all. You know exactly what I mean; we all do it. The problem is that many chronographs […] Visit Hands-On With The Vostra Vector: A Retro-Futuristic Chronograph That’s Built To Be Worn to read the full article.

Jacob & Co.’s God of Time is the World’s Fastest Tourbillon SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Jan 14, 2026

Jacob & Co.’s God of Time is the World’s Fastest Tourbillon

To celebrate founder Jacob Arabo’s 60th birthday, Jacob & Co. has upped the ante for the tourbillon with the God of Time that’s styled on the Greek myth of time, but more importantly features the world’s fastest turning tourbillon that completes one revolution every four seconds – making it 15 times quicker than a conventional one-minute tourbillon. Initial thoughts The God of Time watch is a true showpiece of modern, extravagant high horology, blending both striking visual decoration and engineering prowess. The theme of time and its associated deity is built around the record setting tourbillon, the fastest of its kind. While we’re familiar with the perpetual quest for the thinnest watch, apparently the race towards the fastest tourbillon is also a thing. Much like most Jacob & Co. watches, the God of Time is loud and a large 44.5 mm in diameter. The leitmotif of Greek mythology is present in the thick case as well, which is modelled on an Ionic pillar. The size is a consequence of the movement, which is enormous – inside are four mainsprings – due to the energy requirements of the tourbillon. The hand-crafted figure of Chronos is remarkably detailed - truly in the spirit of ancient Greek statues. The dial is interesting, as the eye is drawn to both the Chronos figure and the unusually fast tourbillon, but falls short in legibility, though that’s clearly not the point here. The God of Time is one of those watches where time-telling is less important tha...

Introducing: Two New Meteorite-Dial Variants Of The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Fratello
Gerald Charles Jan 14, 2026

Introducing: Two New Meteorite-Dial Variants Of The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0

The Gerald Charles Maestro line expands with two new Maestro 2.0 Meteorite models, both featuring dials cut from Muonionalusta meteorite. For the first time, the brand combines this material with a small-seconds display inside the familiar asymmetric Maestro case. The project began modestly, driven by the idea of placing a meteorite dial inside the Maestro […] Visit Introducing: Two New Meteorite-Dial Variants Of The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring² Fratello
Dec 18, 2025

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring²

Our friends over at Monochrome and Habring² are building quite a history together. Their first collaboration, in 2021, celebrated Monochrome’s 15th anniversary. The online watch magazine and the Austrian watchmaking couple teamed up once more in 2023. Their sophomore release, a split-seconds chronograph, raised money for charity. Today, we get a third collaboration in the […] Visit Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring² to read the full article.

TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco is an Impressive Achievement in Additive Manufacturing Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer s Latest Monaco Nov 19, 2025

TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco is an Impressive Achievement in Additive Manufacturing

Dubai Watch Week is upon us, and TAG Heuer is using it as a launching pad for for a new version of what is objectively one of the most impressive watches they’ve ever made. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 builds on the Monaco Split-Seconds that was introduced at Watches & Wonders in 2024. That one, you’ll recall, had a movement fashioned largely from titanium and weighed in at just 85 grams. The retail price at the time was a head scratching CHF 135,000, but it was also an incredibly impressive caliber and feat of engineering. Rattrapante chronographs like this are indeed quite rare, and certainly one with a caliber made of titanium is unheard of and adds additional layers of complexity to whole endeavor.  The new Air 1 version of the watch is still 85 grams, but it achieves that weight even with new solid gold components in the case. The design of the case, still in the iconic Monaco square, has been substantially reworked and inspired by design and manufacturing processes that are part of the Formula 1 landscape. The case has effectively been hollowed out, with intricately skeletonized case flanks designed to maximize the weight to performance ratio. TAG Heuer achieves this through a process they refer to as Selective Laser Melting (SLM). This is an additive manufacturing process that is typically applied in aerospace, medical, and automotive manufacturing, and like other forms of 3-D printing it’s essentially a cheat code in achieving otherwise impossi...

First Look – The new Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde Voyager Edition Monochrome
Nov 17, 2025

First Look – The new Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde Voyager Edition

Founded by former A. Lange & Söhne watchmakers Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, indie watchmaking atelier Kallinich Claeys has quickly become one of the most interesting names in contemporary Glashütte watchmaking. Their debut watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde, introduced a clear design approach and a thoughtfully constructed, in-house movement with central seconds and a linear power reserve […]

Hands On: Petermann Bédat’s Reference 1825 Does More with Less SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat Oct 15, 2025

Hands On: Petermann Bédat’s Reference 1825 Does More with Less

Petermann Bédat has just unveiled its third model, the Reference 1825, which arrives two years after the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The brand’s simplest watch to date, the 1825 is three hands but far from basic. In fact, the 1825 illustrates the cliche that less is more. Founded by duo Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, the brand departs from current fashion with the 1825, which has a restrained aesthetic front and back, though the movement incorporates enough subtle flourishes to make it distinctive and distinguished. The proliferation of open-dial time-only watches with overwrought finishing makes the quiet presence of the 1825 stand out. The cal. 233 of the 1825 Initial thoughts The recent enthusiasm for independent watchmaking has tended to focus on time-only watches of a specific sort, with open dials, exposed movements, and lots of finishing techniques. Naturally, independent watchmakers and brands have delivered in response to that demand. In comparison, the 1825 is old school in style and form, almost plain in fact, but I like it precisely because of that. The 1825 is appealing on two levels. One is tangible – it is an appealing watch on the wrist and clearly executed to a high level. The other is philosophical – I applaud Petermann Bédat for not going with current fads. The 1825 isn’t imaginative or radical, it is simply a simple watch of high quality that feels like it was conceived and executed by sincere, competent watchmakers. All ele...

Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGB005 “Violet Dawn” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Oct 1, 2025

Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGB005 “Violet Dawn”

Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, Grand Seiko revealed the SLBG003, which turned out to be one of the most impressive watches of the whole show. Housing the new 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, the UFA (Ultra-Fine Accuracy) movement is certified to an almost incomprehensible +/- 20 seconds per year, or roughly 3 seconds per month. That makes it, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate movement powered by a mainspring. It’s a truly impressive horological achievement.  Of course, as soon as a brand like Grand Seiko introduces an entirely new platform like the UFA, enthusiasts are on pins and needles waiting to see what comes next. It’s not that we can’t appreciate what we have in front of us, but particularly with Grand Seiko, we know that variants are coming in the form of new dial options and case materials. If you had asked me in the Spring when we’d see the first derivation on the UFA line, I probably wouldn’t have expected to see a new watch so soon, but last week Grand Seiko dropped the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005, nicknamed the “Violet Dawn” for its deep purple dial. It’s always interesting to see what new watches in a new sub-collection come to pass, not just for what it says about where the line is going, but perhaps where it’s not.  The SLGB005, like its predecessor, is what we’d probably call a small-medium size by today’s standards, measuring a conservative 37mm. Unlike the titanium SLBG003, however, this watch is clad in a st...

Brew Introduces the Metric Digital Blend, an Analog-LED Espresso Timer Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces Sep 29, 2025

Brew Introduces the Metric Digital Blend, an Analog-LED Espresso Timer

Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer has been making “coffee timers” for years now. It’s a well established if not definitional part of his watch brand. Inspired by coffee culture, most Brew watches over the years have some mechanism to highlight the passing of 30 seconds, considered by most to be the  ideal amount of time needed to pull the perfect espresso shot. I think just about everyone, including Jonathan, would agree that this timing mechanism works well as a brand signature, but that, for the most part, owners of Brew watches purchase them without thinking that they will definitely use it for coffee timing. It’s like buying a chronograph with a tachymeter scale – it’s there, you may even know exactly how to use it, but your enjoyment of the watch doesn’t derive from actively timing laps. That said, there are certainly some collectors, and perhaps professional baristas, who find real practicality in these coffee timers. But you’ll sometimes hear a common refrain: the analog means of timing a 30 second interval might not be the most user friendly in a pinch.  Enter, the Metric Digital Blend, one of the most surprising watches we’ve seen this year. Housed in a familiar stainless steel Metric case, the Digital Blend is Brew’s first ana-digi watch, a throwback to the 1980s, and perhaps a truly useful espresso timer. Taking advantage of an LED display, the Digital Blend’s 30 second timer can be activated at the push of a button, with a helpful visual aid ...

Roger W. Smith Debuts the Series 6 SJX Watches
Roger W. Smith Sep 24, 2025

Roger W. Smith Debuts the Series 6

After several years with no additions to its line up, Roger W. Smith recently revealed the Series 6. Essentially a variation of the Series 4 triple calendar, the Series 6 is a time and date – hours, minutes, and seconds, plus the brand’s own “travelling date” that takes the form of a peripheral pointer under the main dial. Much of the watch is familiar, including the architecture of the movement and finishing, but the Series 6 does enjoy several upgrades over earlier watches, including the latest version of the single wheel co-axial escapement. Initial thoughts The Series 6 is quintessential Roger W. Smith in look, feel, and execution (and price). The aesthetic is familiar and certainly well loved, while the quality of execution is high. While its watches may not be hand “made,” they are certainly hand finished and the Series 6 illustrates that with its engine-turned dial, hand-made hands, and hand-engraved movement. The under-dial mechanism for the date and keyless works are especially beautiful, despite being concealed. I imagine this approach to the hidden parts is not merely a watchmaker’s vanity; I expect an open-dial version to come along in due time – if it has not already been ordered by a client. The Series 6 also demonstrates the advances made by the brand in terms of manufacturing. Equipped with modern equipment like CNC mills, Roger W. Smith watches today are far, far, far more refined than its earliest creations. Like the brand’s other watche...

Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection Fratello
Trilobe Sep 14, 2025

Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection

Trilobe is a brand we’ve featured on Fratello before, and I was fortunate to go hands-on with the collection last April at Watches and Wonders. The Parisian brand specializes in watches with a distinctive time-telling display. A series of rotating discs shows hours, minutes, and seconds. It’s a wonderfully straightforward concept that now achieves a […] Visit Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection to read the full article.

Citizen Celebrates 30 Years of High-End Watches With Paper-Dial Duo SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s Elegante But unlike Sep 12, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 30 Years of High-End Watches With Paper-Dial Duo

Citizen marks 30 years of its up-market The Citizen collection with two limited-edition watches featuring washi paper dials inspired by Japanese nature. Both use solar-powered quartz movements accurate to ±5 seconds per year, housed in titanium cases treated with ultra-hard Duratect coatings. Initial Thoughts Citizen’s somewhat clumsily named The Citizen sub-brand is 30 years old but little known outside Japan and enthusiast circles. Most The Citizen watches are distinguishable by an eagle crest on the dial, as well as their obvious quality. While the line has since grown to include mechanical watches, which are quite good, it remains a quartz-first brand – which is good as its quartz offerings are excellent and amongst the most advanced in the world. While often compared to the Grand Seiko cal. 9F models, The Citizen’s quartz offerings have more functions, and thus have more in common with the three-hand Seiko Astron 3X models, or Casio’s premium G-Shocks. These share solar charging, a perpetual calendar, and a power saving made which pauses the hands to save energy while not in use, like F.P. Journe’s Elegante. But unlike GPS-reliant Astrons and G-Shocks, Citizen’s high end quartz movements are fully autonomous, and accurate to within five seconds per year with a maximum deviation of two seconds per month during normal use. More important still, The Citizen’s traditionally styled offerings are much easier on the eyes than any G-Shock or modern Astron, stri...

The Rebellious Watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus SJX Watches
Sep 12, 2025

The Rebellious Watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus

While the industry resumes normal operations following Geneva Watch Days, we’re taking a quick detour to the Italy to see what Ondřej Berkus has been up to. The Deadbeat Seconds 2.0 is the latest delivery from the self-taught watchmaker and is a good example of how far his watchmaking has come in recent years. As the name suggests, the DS 2.0 is the second watch Mr Berkus has made in this style, but like all of his creations, the two are remarkably different in execution. Initial thoughts There’s a reassuring degree of predictability to the luxury watch industry. It’s a conservative industry built on tradition, which reinforces unspoken norms about what counts as a high end watch. The result is conformity; most watchmakers march to a similar beat and stick to their respective niches. This uniformity helps customers understand the products, but as a consequence many of the products can be criticised as homogenous and impersonal. In contrast, the watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus is refreshingly human. He has no formal website, and conducts business via Instagram. He does not release collections, and no two pieces are entirely alike; each watch is created in dialogue with a collector. A self-taught watchmaker, Mr Berkus manages to pull this off thanks in part to his distinctive approach to finishing. While most contemporary independent watchmakers focus on simple movements executed to a high level, Mr Berkus flips the script, and strives to deliver watches that are unique...

First Look – The Robot-Themed Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R Edition Monochrome
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R Edition Sep 2, 2025

First Look – The Robot-Themed Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R Edition

As its name suggests, the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R is an evolution of the dial-side split-seconds chronograph presented in 2021. You might be wondering what lies behind the cryptic R.U.R acronym? Well, the word “robot” comes from the Czech “robota,” meaning “forced labour” or “serfdom,” and it was popularised by another famous Czech-born personality with […]

Greubel Forsey Returns to the Nano Foudroyante SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Returns Aug 28, 2025

Greubel Forsey Returns to the Nano Foudroyante

Launched last year as a concept watch of sorts – and the brand’s first-ever chronograph – the Nano Foudroyante now joins Greubel Forsey’s regular production catalogue, albeit in a small-run limited edition as is convention for the brand. The new Nano Foudroyante retains all of the key elements of the original Experimental Watch Technology (EWT) version – we examined that watch in-depth earlier this year – including the miniaturised lightning seconds mounted on the tourbillon cage. The design also remains the same, but gains colour in the form of a blued seconds scale and blued steel hands, while the case is now entirely in white gold. Initial thoughts The Nano Foudroyante is essentially a cosmetic variation on the original, but it looks notably different, though it feels the same; the watch is dense, heavy, and clearly high quality. The blue accents and faux-fabric rubber strap give the sort of informal, but not quite sporty, appearance that is popular today. In contrast, the original EWT version of the watch was old-school complicated watchmaking in its monochromatic grey-and-silver livery. The two versions still look pretty similar, however, and I would have hoped Greubel Forsey did more to set this apart from the EWT version. Alternatively the EWT iteration could have been made more radical or extreme, which is not a bridge too far for a “experimental” limited edition. That said, the watch is still technically impressive with its novel approach to the fo...

Massena Lab and Vianney Halter Team Up for Steampunk Regulator SJX Watches
Massena Lab Aug 26, 2025

Massena Lab and Vianney Halter Team Up for Steampunk Regulator

Massena Lab’s latest collaboration is a steampunk regulator wristwatch created together with Vianney Halter. Blending the best of both their respective styles, the Old Soul is an unusual yet appealing proposition for collectors looking to get a sampling of the independent watchmaker’s best known works. The Old Soul displays the time regulator-style, with the hours, minutes, and seconds on separate registers. But it indicates the minutes with a clever trick: a “floating” minute pointer on a clear sapphire disc. Inside is a vintage Minerva movement that’s been dressed up for the occasion but still recognisable as an early-20th century calibre. Initial thoughts The Old Soul a continuation of the collection that began with the Old School made together with Luca Soprana. If Massena Lab founder William Rohr’s aesthetic sensibilities prevailed with the earlier watch, it is Mr Halter’s signature style that dominates the Old Soul. The Old Soul is unquestionably quirky - both as a whole and in the details. The watch looks like a regulator, but lacks the traditional vertical sub-dial arrangement. It also lacks a central minute hand, featuring instead a “floating” diamond-shaped pointer. The “floating” hand is a nifty optical illusion but it’s a straightforward concept that replaces the hand with a clear disc. Inside the piece ticks an equally unexpected movement, a “new old stock” Minerva cal. 17.22. According to Massena Lab, it was the discovery of a fo...

Interview – At The Heart Of The Tour de France With Sylvain Dolla, CEO of Tissot Monochrome
Tissot Widely regarded as Jul 26, 2025

Interview – At The Heart Of The Tour de France With Sylvain Dolla, CEO of Tissot

Widely regarded as the pinnacle of road cycling, the Tour de France demands everything from its riders. In 2025, the 112? edition covered approximately 3,338.8?km over 21 stages. Every second matters. Traditionally, fans remember the legendary 1989 showdown where Greg?LeMond edged Laurent?Fignon by just 8?seconds, the narrowest margin ever, with precision timing the heartbeat of […]

The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Returns with an Appetite and a Tourbillon Worn & Wound
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Jul 3, 2025

The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Returns with an Appetite and a Tourbillon

Many watches are designed to perform specific tasks or serve specific purposes beyond telling the time. Divers have bold markers and ratcheting bezels, pilot watches are oversized and might include a second time zone, track watches feature chronographs or tachymeters, etc, and then, there’s the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eaters. Featuring a giant eyeball for the hour hand, a spinning set of teeth for the seconds, and a double-sided arm that’s giving a one-finger salute, they don’t seek to fulfill a practical purpose. Instead, I’d classify them as “memento absurdum,” which is to say, objects that remind you of the absurdity, whether in life or watch collecting. If you’re thinking, “Now, wait a second, didn’t they just come out with a new Time Eater like a few days ago?” you’d be correct. A 42mm model with a navy blue chapter ring and a darker silver than previous versions, it was a handsome, if iterative, addition. But the Time-Eater is back once again, this time with a substantial change: it now has a tourbillon. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen Louis Erard use a tourbillon movement, specifically the “affordable for a tourbillon” BCP T02 by Olivier Mory, which appeared on a few of their Alain Silberstein collabs. The Time-Eater Tourbillon (TET from here out) is basically a reedition of one of the first two Time-Eaters, which was initially introduced in either a 39mm case with a purple chapter ring, or a 42mm case with a green ch...