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Results for Movement vs Caliber

3,035 articles · 507 videos found · page 28 of 119

Introducing – The Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition with New Old Stock Dial and Movement Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition Jan 18, 2024

Introducing – The Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition with New Old Stock Dial and Movement

A visually faithful re-edition of a vintage dive watch, the classic version of the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster – which we reviewed here – combines the charm of an old watch with the ease-of-use of a modern watch, built with contemporary features and materials like sapphire crystal. And in all fairness, this is a perfect package […]

Head to Head: Sporty vs Dressy GMT Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 31, 2023

Head to Head: Sporty vs Dressy GMT Watches

The traveler’s watch. The last truly useful sport watch today. The GMT watch has, as much as its sibling the dive watch, remained a cultural icon and a best-seller for brands both big and small. Every collector wants – or at least has considered – a GMT watch of some kind. There is good and bad news to that end. The good news is that watch brands have labored to create GMT watches of all sorts to appeal to every breed of watch enthusiast. The bad news is that money doesn’t grow on trees. Of all the classic watch archetypes, the GMT has always straddled that line between ritzy and rough, and we can separate them into two stylistic buckets: dressy and sporty. While the line between the two is often blurred and the definitions themselves somewhat subjective, we thought it would be fun to see how this useful complication has found its way into watches of all kinds. So without further ado, this is your Sunday Smackdown: GMT Edition. The traveler’s watch. The last truly useful sport watch today. The GMT watch has, as much as its sibling the dive watch, remained a cultural icon and a best-seller for brands both big and small. Every collector wants – or at least has considered – a GMT watch of some kind. There is good and bad news to that end. The good news is that watch brands have labored to create GMT watches of all sorts to appeal to every breed of watch enthusiast. The bad news is that money doesn’t grow on trees. Of all the classic watch archetypes, the GMT h...

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Collection with a La Joux-Perret Movement Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Collection Dec 15, 2023

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Collection with a La Joux-Perret Movement

Frederique Constant is well-known for its wide portfolio of manufacture movements, ranging from classic time-only to high-end tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Still, not all watches from FC are powered by these internally developed and assembled calibres. Specifically, most of the brand’s entry-level models rely on Sellita movements. A new collection, which has just been presented, […]

YEMA Launches a Kickstarter to Support a Manufacture Caliber in New Superman Bronze References Worn & Wound
Yema Nov 10, 2023

YEMA Launches a Kickstarter to Support a Manufacture Caliber in New Superman Bronze References

Watch brand YEMA has long been synonymous with French elegance and their latest model, the Superman Bronze CMM.10 is no exception. Utilizing crowd-funding through Kickstarter, YEMA has produced a limited edition watch that is as architectural in design as it is reliable when it comes to performance. Available in two sizes (39 and 41mm) and two dial color options (gradient blue and lacquered black), potential customers have the choice of a watch that best suits their individual preferences. Both dials are a striking contrast to the bronze, adding a balance of warm and cool tones that pair well with the rugged design of the Superman model. The watch itself has undergone a few changes from the original Superman models, most notable in the subtle upgrades to the dial, including the iconic “shovel” second hand has been replaced with a lollipop sweep hand, creating a more harmonious overall design. The timepiece now proudly exhibits French engravings and features the new “MANUFACTURE FRANÇAISE” signature thoughtfully placed at the 6 o’clock position. This change reflects YEMA’s updated brand positioning, resulting from their decision to internalize the manufacturing of components for the CMM.10 caliber. Speaking of the CMM.10 caliber, this movement promises 70-hours of power reserve and is rated to -3/+5 seconds per day is made from non-magnetic alloys to keep it from being impacted by magnetic forces during daily use. YEMA says that they worked in collaboration wit...

Omega Introduces a New Ceramic Compound to their Collection and Puts a Titanium Movement in the New Planet Ocean Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces Oct 25, 2023

Omega Introduces a New Ceramic Compound to their Collection and Puts a Titanium Movement in the New Planet Ocean

The Lightness Wars continue today with the release of the new Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey, a ceramic dive watch with a GMT complication that isn’t just another ceramic sports watch. The new reference is filled with technological advancements on the materials and watchmaking fronts that Omega claims give it an improved strength to weight ratio compared to prior watches made from similar materials. Omega’s first big innovation here is the use of silicon nitride ceramic for the case, a lighter ceramic compound that is also very robust. Omega claims it is two times lighter than the Zircon ceramic used throughout the rest of their catalog, and according to their spec sheet the watch weighs in at 107 grams. The color of the case is a cool grey, and seems clearly intended to evoke the tactical lightweight feel of titanium. The other (and perhaps more significant) feature of the new Seamaster is that the dial and movement are both made from titanium, which goes a long way to reducing the total weight of the watch. The movement inside is the Master Chronometer Calibre 8906, which of course has been given the full METAS treatment.  All that titanium on the inside and fancy ceramic on the outside will hopefully lead to featherweight wearing experience, because this watch is big by any standard. The case measures 45.5mm in diameter and 17.4mm tall. The lug to lug measurement is 51.5mm, which seems almost reasonable given the hefty diameter. It’s a Planet Ocean, so water re...

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator Worn & Wound
Maen Oct 9, 2023

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator

MAEN Watches has relaunched their vintage inspired Skymaster 38 chronograph over the weekend, adding three new updated references to the collection, including a surprising limited edition. The Skymaster feels like a watch right in MAEN’s wheelhouse: a sports watch with an aesthetic that’s clearly inspired by the past, but executed at an incredibly high level with a surprising level of detail, all at a price point that makes these watches tough to ignore. I spent some time recently with MAEN’s Brooklyn 36 reference, an old school triple calendar, and was pleasantly surprised at the level of refinement on a watch that comes in at well under $1,000. The Skymaster, now in a MKIII version, contains many similar small details. There are two big changes with this third edition of the Skymaster 38. First, the watch now runs on the new Sellita SW510Mb manually wound movement, and the case has gone through a series of little adjustments to properly house it. Previous versions of the Skymaster used automatic movements, so the inclusion of a manually wound caliber here represents a significant change, and really plays into the heritage angle of a release like this.  Secondly, in addition to offering a 12 hour bezel, MAEN is now making the Skymaster with an optional tachymeter bezel as well. The more prominent tachymeter bezel changes the appearance of the Skymaster dramatically, and should prove popular with collectors who are after a more traditionally styled racing chronograp...

Collective Horology Introduces their Latest Limited Edition, a Collaboration with Montblanc Featuring a Gorgeous Minerva Caliber Worn & Wound
Montblanc Featuring Oct 3, 2023

Collective Horology Introduces their Latest Limited Edition, a Collaboration with Montblanc Featuring a Gorgeous Minerva Caliber

Collective Horology, the private watch club/independent brand retailer/producer of thoughtful limited editions, is back with their latest release in an ongoing series of collaborations. This time, they’re working with Montblanc, tapping into the brand’s association with the historic Minerva manufacture, maker of some of the most important chronograph calibers in the history of watchmaking. The 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05 is a high end “What if…?” hypothetical come to life, and a great showcase for a truly special movement. As with all Collective limited editions, this one is something more than a reissue or a tweaked colorway. It exists to tell a specific story about the brand in a way that can often only be done from the outside.  According to Collective, the seed of inspiration for the P.05 came from Eric Wind, or more specifically a watch in his case at the 2022 Windup Watch Fair. That year, Eric brought a Minerva stopwatch to the show, and it reminded Collective founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin of Minerva’s sporting roots, opening up a series of entirely new design possibilities. The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph that Collective and Montblanc came up with drew on the sportier design cues from that stopwatch, including the colors, finishing techniques, and the case material (robust stainless steel, of course). The end result is a chronograph that has many key vintage inspired design elements that are core to Montblanc and Mi...

Marco Lang Open Sources His Movement and Constructions SJX Watches
Sep 12, 2023

Marco Lang Open Sources His Movement and Constructions

As a gifted and passionate watchmaker, Marco Lang is committed to preserving his legacy for future generations. This extraordinary commitment involves providing unrestricted access to all the construction data related to every component of his Zweigesicht-1 timepiece on his website. This open-source initiative aims to assist future watchmakers in servicing Marco’s watches for generations to come. The beginning of independence When a watchmaker, especially an independent one, makes the commitment to ensure that his creations will remain fully functional and cherished by generations to come, it truly demonstrates the depth of his devotion and altruism toward both his present and future clientele. Marco Lang embarked on his journey as an independent watchmaker when he founded his modest workshop in Dresden in 2003, in collaboration with Mirko Heyne and Lothar Zieger, which eventually became known as Lang & Heyne. In 2019, he once again chose the path of an independent watchmaker, this time working entirely on his own. He found a delicate balance between idealism and art, a topic he delves into in this article he penned for us during the year he decided to embark on this new chapter. Marco Lang in his workshop, located within his home. Photo – Marco Lang The subsequent year marked the introduction of his inaugural creation under the “Marco Lang” signature, the double-faced Zweigesicht-1, housing the remarkable calibre ml-01. The calibre ml-01 With all 18 pieces of the ...

Lorier Updates their Hydra and Hyperion Lines with New Watches Featuring the Miyota 9075 “Flyer” GMT Caliber Worn & Wound
Rolex Jul 24, 2023

Lorier Updates their Hydra and Hyperion Lines with New Watches Featuring the Miyota 9075 “Flyer” GMT Caliber

A few years ago, one of the most discussed topics on watch forums, Instagram, and indeed in the Worn & Wound office, was the huge opportunity and desire among enthusiasts for a new crop of affordable GMTs with local jumping hour capability. For a time, it seemed that small watch brands could not keep up with demand for so-called “caller” GMTs with independently set 24 hour hands, but these watches are in fact massively inconvenient for travel, even though, in most cases, they were marketed and sold as watches tailor made for crossing time zones. A watch with an hour hand that reads local time and can be jumped quickly without hacking the movement is the ultimate in terms of travel functionality (with or without the ability to track home time, in my opinion), and there was a time not too long ago where it was thought that a watch with this feature deployed by microbrands in watches under $1,000 might be nothing less than a paradigm shift in the hobby. Well, we’re fully there, folks. The Miyota 9075 exists, and has been popping up in new watches from some of our favorite small brands for the better part of a year, and now Lorier has dropped it into a pair of GMT equipped watches, finally making them the dedicated travel companions many hoped they could be.  The Hyperion is what Lorier describes as “the archetypal GMT,” fitting a well established mold of classic travel watches by Rolex and others. It has deep vintage vibes, with a red and blue 24 hour bezel, gilt a...

Bulova Relaunches the Jet Star, with their High Frequency Precisionist Movement, in Three Striking Dial Variants Worn & Wound
Bulova Relaunches Jul 20, 2023

Bulova Relaunches the Jet Star, with their High Frequency Precisionist Movement, in Three Striking Dial Variants

Good design always comes back in cycles. Whether it’s the revival of midcentury furniture or Neoclassical architecture, there’s an undeniable truth when it comes to design: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.  Watch brands are surprisingly good at acknowledging – even celebrating – past designs, only making small updates for better performance or tweaking the finer details to refine the overall product. Bulova’s release of their reimagined Jet Star is one such example of this. Taking inspiration from the archival 1970’s Jet Star, the new Bulova 1973 Jet Star has made incremental updates to the overall design, preserving what works and making small improvements along the way. The stainless steel case remains as angular and interesting to the eye as the original, but has since been updated with a trio of colorways for a variety of options. Customers can now choose between a sporty steel timepiece with red and blue accents, a gold-toned Jet Star with rich brown and gold tones, or a not-so-subtle red and steel model. While the aesthetic of the watch could be right out of the 70’s, the internals of this watch are anything but retro. Utilizing a Precisionist movement, this quartz caliber vibrates at a remarkable 262kHz, making for a gorgeously smooth second hand that sweeps across the dial, similar to a mechanical watch. This unparalleled accuracy punches well above the weight class and price point of the Jet Star. Each of the three references in this collection ...

Tissot Puts a Powermatic 80 Movement in their Smallest PRX Worn & Wound
Tissot Puts Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Puts a Powermatic 80 Movement in their Smallest PRX

It’s not exactly breaking news, but it seems that integrated bracelet sports watches hold just as dominant a place in the market as they did a year ago, and a year before that. They are coming at us from every angle: the entry level, the high end, and somewhere in between, and with each new release, it feels more and more like this isn’t a “trend,” as so many (including myself) have described it in the past. It’s becoming increasingly clear that what we’re looking at is a product category as broad as “dive watches” or “dress watches.” That means integrated bracelet sports watches are just going to keep coming, not just at every price point, but in every size.  And that brings us to the newest release from Tissot, a PRX in a 35mm case and equipped with an automatic movement. The PRX has been available in 35mm for about a year, but only with a quartz movement. An integrated bracelet sports watch in a smaller than normal case size makes a ton of sense, and by all accounts the 35mm PRX was a big hit. The very nature of an integrated bracelet sports watch means that, most of the time, it’s going to wear a bit larger than a watch with a strap or traditional bracelet. The cases for these watches, often somewhat architectural and heavily faceted, have a ton of wrist presence. And the silkiness and drape of the bracelets (when they’re done right) makes comfort a truly defining feature in this category – a watch that’s too big can spoil the whole experie...