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Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Military-Inspired Diver OPS SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces May 27, 2024

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Military-Inspired Diver OPS

Ulysse Nardin just dropped the Diver Net OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS, a pair of military-inspired sports watches made from sustainable materials. Dressed in olive drab and black, the two watches utilise recycled steel and carbon composites, and even nylon straps made from fishing nets. Though the emphasis on sustainability and styling are clearly modern, the basis of the watches is historical: the design is modelled on the shipborne marine chronometers Ulysse Nardin was once famous for. The Diver X Skeleton OPS with its open dial Initial Thoughts Ulysse Nardin opted for more restrained aesthetics for the new Diver Duo, instead of the brighter colours found on past models. The Diver Net OPS in particular has a low-key, functional look. Notably, the trademark “X” motif on its dial – which you either love or hate – is not particularly obvious. I find the “X” too bold on some other designs, but here it works better with the military-esque look of the dial. However, both the materials and movements found inside the two watches reflect the brand’s focus on advanced, industrial watchmaking. The Diver Net OPS, for example, is an entry-level model but still equipped with an in-house movement with a silicon hairspring and free-sprung balance, along with a diamond-coated escapement. The Diver Net OPS And the use of recycled materials is also interesting. The carbon composite parts of the case are offcuts from the aircraft manufacturing, which according to the brand red...

eBay Finds: A Rare Vintage Swatch, Two Cool Bulovas, and a Classic Seiko Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bulova s May 24, 2024

eBay Finds: A Rare Vintage Swatch, Two Cool Bulovas, and a Classic Seiko Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage 1987 Swatch  First up this week is a cool vintage Swatch. I love how these 1980’s gems are back in style! Now, this “X” model is one I didn’t know was a thing, but apparently the X-rated, or Straight Edge or even Gen-X thing this watch represents is quite popular! This particular model goes for quite the premium over other Swatch models I’ve seen. Anyway, this example is in excellent original condition and hails from 1987, and comes on the original plastic strap. If you’re in the market for the coveted “X” Swatch, here’s your chance for one at auction rather than an exorbitant ‘buy it now’ price. View auction here 1970s Vintage Bulova Here’s an unusual vintage Bulova Sea King with the neat whale logo. The dark blue dial has really unique faceted cross markers in applied steel, along with bold steel stick hands. The dial also has the classic Sea King whale logo which I’ve always liked. The 32mm steel case is unpolished with sharp edges on the thin lugs. No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs and keeps time. The bracelet is a nice period-correct steel band that suits the watch perfectly, even though it is not Bulova branded. Nice vint...

A New Book Highlights Rare Watches and Thirty Years of European Watch Company Worn & Wound
May 21, 2024

A New Book Highlights Rare Watches and Thirty Years of European Watch Company

Being a watch collector sometimes means acquiring many other things that are tangentially related to the hobby. We talk about this stuff all the time on Worn & Wound. It’s not just the watch “stuff” that you’d expect, either. Things like straps, storage, and tools of course will naturally accumulate as a collection grows, but there are seemingly endless additional rabbit holes one can fall down that in one way or another support a watch collecting habit. Anyone who has been to a Windup event (or any large watch meetup for that matter) has surely noticed all of the collectors with nice cameras slung over their shoulders. You have to document these things somehow, right? And the bounds of enthusiasm stretch to things like sneakers, apparel, writing instruments, and EDC related gear, all areas we’ve explored in these pages, and all areas that have embraced watch collectors and that watch collectors, in turn, have welcomed. And then there are the books. Certainly many in this community have built libraries of watch reference volumes over the years. There are many to choose from, and some offer rare glimpses of watches with beautiful photography that gets you as close as you can to a dream watch short of owning it.  Last week saw the release of a new volume that borrows on three decades of tradition and knowledge for a book that is packed with information on some of the rarest watches. The Connoisseur’s Guide to Fine Timepieces is inspired by the life’s work of A...

Timex and The James Brand Launch their Latest Collaboration: a Traveler’s GMT in Titanium Worn & Wound
Timex May 21, 2024

Timex and The James Brand Launch their Latest Collaboration: a Traveler’s GMT in Titanium

Timex has been on a roll as of late, with multiple successful collaborations with Keith Haring, Jackie Aiche, Seconde/Seconde, and the Peanuts gang to name a few. We recently featured the World-Famous Tennis Player Time x Peanuts on Worn & Wound. Their latest collaboration appears to be an effort to step it up a notch and they have clearly succeeded in doing so.  Introducing the fully titanium Timex x James Brand GMT. And it is not just any GMT, it is a proper traveler’s type, with an independently adjustable local hour hand. Envisioned by renowned Italian watchmaker and Timex Chief Creative Director Giorgio Galli and designed by the team at The James Brand, this all-new co-branded GMT watch has the analog soul of the classic field watch. Why James Brand? They believe that the things you carry say something about you. They design tools that are practical, not tactical, with a modern and minimalist design aesthetic that never feels out of place but is still clearly “James Brand.” That principle has been carried over in the brand’s previous watch releases and continues with this new GMT. This barrel-shaped watch measures 41mm in diameter and has a lug width of 20mm, which is a great size for strap swapping. Likewise, the accompanying titanium bracelet and rubber strap have quick-release spring bars for easy changes. Powering this timepiece is the Miyota 9075 automatic 24 jewel movement, which has a power-reserve of 42-hours, and it can be admired through the screw-d...

eBay Finds: A Pair of Vintage Seamasters, a Nice Citizen Bullhead Chrono, and a Funky Jump Hour Worn & Wound
Citizen Bullhead Chrono May 10, 2024

eBay Finds: A Pair of Vintage Seamasters, a Nice Citizen Bullhead Chrono, and a Funky Jump Hour

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille The Seamaster DeVille line was Omega’s dressier version of their sporty Seamaster. This example looks much like the Geneve line they put out, with its simple round case and thin bezel with straight skinny lugs. Very clean and classic 1960’s dress watch look, especially with the gold cap case. The 34-35mm case is in nice shape, and the gold cap is holding up strong. The original silver dial looks good, with a few specks here and there. The watch has the correct and original crown, and also comes with the original seven-row beads of rice bracelet! Seller states the watch runs and keeps time, so you’re all set for your next cocktail party! View auction here 1970s Initial Dynamic  Here’s a wild one for you, a vintage 1970’s direct read/jump hour from Initial Dynamic. Don’t worry if you’ve never heard of them, I haven’t either! But that doesn’t mean this isn’t a super cool looking watch. Check out that oval ‘dial’, with the awesome direct read window on the left, and matching date window on the right. The chrome plated case is excellent, with sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The strap looks original to me, with a cool met...

Hublot Introduces a Trio of New Big Bang Unico Chronographs for Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Hublot Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Hublot Introduces a Trio of New Big Bang Unico Chronographs for Watches & Wonders

If I were asked to pick the quintessential Hublot watch, the choice would be easy. It’s the Big Bang Unico. Just about every watch brand has a model that can be pointed to as a sort of platonic ideal. That watch tells you pretty much everything you need to know about the core of a brand. For Hublot, it’s the Big Bang Unico, and Hublot knows it. The Big Bang Unico is to Hublot what the 458 was to Ferrari, a pure distillation of the brands’ essence into something that you can (mostly) drive in the real world. The Big Bang Unico Ceramic, well that’s more like a 458 Speciale - mostly the same thing, but with a little extra oomph. For Watches & Wonders this year, Hublot is continuing to iterate on the tried and true 42mm flyback chronograph with the introduction of three new variants of the Big Bang Unico, each made primarily of ceramic. To kick us off, Hublot is introducing two new versions of the Big Bang Unico Ceramic, one in orange, and one in green, each in a limited edition of 250 pieces. These aren’t entirely new colors for the brand, we’ve seen green ceramic on the Big Bang Integral Chronograph, and Hublot produced an orange ceramic limited edition Big Bang Unico inspired by the Golden Gate Bridge through their San Francisco boutique a few years ago. That said, they are welcomed additions to the lineup, and will each have their fair share of fans. Both the Orange and the Green come equipped with color-matched rubber straps and feature black accents through...

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References Worn & Wound
Montblanc Expands Apr 10, 2024

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References

The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection, already notable for its unique glacial-inspired aesthetics, welcomes two new additions to its line-up: Bronze and Burgundy. Both models expand upon the Iced Sea collection to bring a moodier, more sophisticated look. The first of these, Bronze, marries a black glacier pattern dial with a bronze-tone case, a nod to the golden hues of dusk over frosty terrains. This reference stands out with its use of cupro aluminum for the case – a unique alloy that surpasses traditional bronze in resistance to wear and corrosion, promising durability while aging gracefully into a charming patina. It also introduces a bi-color unidirectional bezel, a new logo reflecting Montblanc’s heritage, and a titanium caseback adorned with a scuba diver motif, all complemented by a versatile black rubber strap with a brown accent. The Burgundy model, on the other hand, captures the deep reds of evening light on ice, paired with a black ceramic bezel. It comes with an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, ensuring a perfect fit for the wearer. Both models exhibit the meticulous craftsmanship Montblanc is known for, utilizing a special gratté-boisé technique for the dials to create an impression of depth and luminosity, while the casebacks feature detailed 3D engravings achieved through precise laser work. Each model’s case comes in at 41mm, accompanied by a sapphire crystal and equipped with an MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement that promises...

[Video] The Rado Anatom, and What the Next Vintage Watch Revival Might Look Like Worn & Wound
Rado Anatom Mar 28, 2024

[Video] The Rado Anatom, and What the Next Vintage Watch Revival Might Look Like

When you write about watches for a living, it’s impossible not to think about the concept of vintage reissues and vintage inspired watches on an almost daily basis. For the last ten years, at least, vintage inspired watches have been the key driving force in the watch market, even if you take a somewhat narrow view of what a “vintage inspired” watch really is. They have been ubiquitous for a long time now.  But that’s changing. We no longer live in an environment where every other watch that finds its way into my inbox is based on a design from the middle of the last century. They’re still there, to be sure, but it’s not nearly as overwhelming as it once was. It’s been gratifying to see many brands, a lot of them small and making watches at affordable price points, introduce popular contemporary designs that are original and have resonated strongly with the community. By the same token, the best makers of watches inspired by designs from the 1950s and 1960s have established themselves more firmly, and carved out niches for themselves in the enthusiast community where their watches don’t feel like knock-offs, but part of a long tradition, and possessed of their own unique design language.  It occurs to me though that my perspective on this could simply be that of someone who is getting older. I’ve rounded 40 now, and am shocked on a weekly basis to learn that albums and movies that meant a lot to me in high school and college are now celebrating 20 and 2...

Review: the Behrens BHR030 Ultralight 20g Worn & Wound
Behrens BHR030 Ultralight 20g It’s Mar 22, 2024

Review: the Behrens BHR030 Ultralight 20g

It’s been a long time since I’ve been impressed by a watch box. Normally I don’t pay attention. Often, a review watch arrives in some kind of travel pouch, and ultimately the packaging isn’t important anyway. It’s not why any of us buy a watch, but in the case of the Behrens BHR030 Ultralight 20g it’s a mouthwatering taste of what’s to come. The watch box is thin, curved and sleek, and promises that something special is waiting inside. When the black lid slides back, the watch does not disappoint. As the name suggests, the BHR030 is ultralight and, as you may notice, it is also ultra-thin, curved, and hypnotic. Behrens is a relatively new name in the watch game, founded in China in 2012, but one that is looking to make a big impact. You’ll note the branding in the top right corner of the watch says “Behrens Inventor” which gives an indication that the brand is forward thinking rather than focussed on classic watchmaking – though the watch itself should have been enough of a giveaway. Nothing about the BHR030 is traditional, and that starts with the case. The last part of the model name refers to its weight. 20 grams is equivalent to 8 US pennies, which is ridiculously light for a mechanical watch. That’s the weight of the watch head alone though, and with a strap attached that number shoots up to 34g. That’s right, the watch weighs only a little more than the svelte strap it comes fitted with. As you might have guessed, to achieve this lightness t...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Mar 15, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

IN PARTNERSHIP: Zenith has gone back to their vintage roots with a faithful re-creation of the intended design from the 70’s, and we’ve road-tested it to see if the 1970’s works in 2024! What We Love Vintage styling that doesn’t look out of place todayPracticality of the chronograph and calendar functionsThe subtle green colour that’s not in your face What We Don’t The 38mm size is a touch on the small sideLeather strap could be more detailed to suit the watchThickness when compared to the case size with the raised lugs Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Zenith came out of the blocks strong for 2024 where at LVMH Watch Week in January they went strong on their Chronomaster line. Part of these launches was the re-introduction of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in three colourways, which we covered here. The commentary and feedback from these releases were overall positive, especially amongst the collector community where vintage and sub 40mm pieces are received incredibly well. Just look at the below Instagram post from ChampsG with the comments on this. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) So when we agreed to do this hands on review, I was curious as to how I would like the green boutique edition, as quite frankly it’s not a watch I would generally gravitate towards – the Chronomaster Sport is a little more my style. But that’s what I love about havi...

Revisiting Shinola: the New Black Ceramic Monster Worn & Wound
Shinola Mar 11, 2024

Revisiting Shinola: the New Black Ceramic Monster

I first took serious notice of Shinola when the brand released its limited edition yacht timer, the Shinola Mackinac in 2022. It’s a funky, vintage inspired design, with a square case, circular yellow-orange dial, and pops of blue that make it an eye-catching piece, perfect for summer. I bought it-and probably overpaid, but, hey, everyone’s got that watch they bought with their heart not their financial sense-and at the same time bought into Shinola’s story as a company that pays homage to its Detroit roots and assembles their watches in America. The Mackinac really seems to represent a turning point for the company. Its release was followed by a string of watches seemingly designed for watch enthusiasts who took issue with Shinola’s pricey, quartz-heavy early catalog. Take the latest addition to the Shinola lineup: the Ceramic Monster, which I had the opportunity to spend a week with recently. The Monster line has always had the best case design of any of Shinola’s watches-particularly with the subtly curved lugs, which here allow the accompanying strap to be flush with the case, unlike other Shinola models which feature straight, spindly lugs-but the Ceramic Monster is the first in the lineup to look truly distinct from other brands’ divers. This is thanks not just to the color change-the watch is all black with some red and white highlights -but to the subtle rippling wave pattern featured on the dial meant to evoke a choppy day on the Great Lake...

Hands-On: the MAEN 39 Ultra Thin Worn & Wound
Maen Jan 1, 2024

Hands-On: the MAEN 39 Ultra Thin

Thinness in a watch, real thinness, the type that requires the word “thin” to be in the name, is almost like a complication unto itself. This is not an original observation, but I think it bears repeating, especially when a watch is impressively, almost hilariously thin. The new MAEN Manhattan 39 Ultra Thin fits neatly into this category, taking every aspect of the popular 37mm version of the watch up a notch. To me it feels akin, almost, to the Lorier Hydra SIII released last year. Not because it has anything specific in common with that watch, but because it represents the manifestation of a type of watch enthusiasts have been dreaming of at an accessible price point for years.  Before we get too deep into the wearing experience, let’s start with the numbers. The tale of the tape, for the MAEN 39 matters in a way I’d normally brush off. The 39mm diameter is just slightly larger than the original Manhattan. In truth, when you have the watches side by side, they look very similar. Part of this is because 2mm in this dimension is just not a whole lot of real estate on a case that’s elongated toward the bracelet sides, and part of it is a visual trick of the eye.  $999 Hands-On: the MAEN 39 Ultra Thin Case Stainless steel Movement ETA 7001 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Integrated steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 ATM Dimensions 39 x 47.8mm Thickness 6.9mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $999 Where the differences be...

Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko manages Nov 30, 2023

Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps”

When it comes to deciding on a new watch, I know I think about all the usual suspects: build quality, fit and finish, movement, and most importantly (for me anyway) is the look. In my conversations with other enthusiasts, brand heritage has also come up. But what happens if you’re looking at brands who are not old enough to have years of heritage? Well, I would argue that it’s important to discern what that brand stands for – their ethos.  $1185 Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps” Case Stainless steel Movement Soprod Newton Dial Red Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 30 meters Dimensions 38 x 46.8mm Thickness 11mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $1185 Buci, established in 2022 out of Paris, has a soul that is super-charged with poetry. Brand owner Nousseïma Baraket is both a poet and avid reader of poetry, on top of being filled with a love for horology. If you stop to think about it, our passion for watches is not without romance and poetry. Afterall, we willingly wear some of the smallest engine turning ecosystems in the world on our wrists, knowing full well that time is kept better on our phones and computers. We don’t need them, but our lives are enriched by their presence.  At this point we all know that watches have different stories to tell. Studio Underd0g lets us know that we can have fun with our classic watch designs. Grand Seiko manages to capture the nuances of nature in their dials. Buci oversees the integrat...

Circula Adds New Dial Colors to their Protrail and Aquasport II Collections Worn & Wound
Nov 23, 2023

Circula Adds New Dial Colors to their Protrail and Aquasport II Collections

Fresh off the heels of Circula’s latest release, the DiveSport 500m diver, the German maker is at it again and just in time for the holiday season, introducing two new colorways to each of their existing ProTrail and AquaSport II lines.  In case you are not familiar with the Protrail, it is Circula’s take on a modern field watch, boasting significant anti-magnetic properties (up to 80,000 A/m), a 1,200 Vickers scratch resistant stainless steel case, and an Elaboré Grade Sellita SW200. This robust go anywhere, do anything watch has a diameter of 40mm, lug to lug length of 46mm and 12mm thin, which is well within “Goldilocks” parameters. All this and 150n water-resistance to boot. The two new colors for the Protrail are green and grey. All are available on a sailcloth strap or matching stainless-steel bracelet. Pricing starts at around $800 for this model. Also seeing a refresh is the AquaSport II, Circula’s version of a modern skin-diver. Equally capable in the boardroom, as on the dive boat, this formidable 200m dive watch boasts many sophisticated details. Sporting an attractive hand-brushed stainless steel case, a 120-click sapphire bezel and the same Elaboré Grade Sellita SW200. Similar to the Protrail, this one is 40mm in diameter, 46mm from lug to lug and an impressive 12.6mm thick. “Goldilocks” parameters checked off once again.   A new brown/gilt dial joins the  AquaSport II collection, alongside recently introduced anthracite and red colorways. ...

Hands-On: the ochs und junior Settimana Seasons “Autumn” Worn & Wound
Nov 21, 2023

Hands-On: the ochs und junior Settimana Seasons “Autumn”

There are relatively few brands out there that don’t need a name on the dial. Sure, you can tell apart a Submariner, Seamaster, and Aquis with all branding removed. But how about recognizing a whole brand rather than a single model? One brand that doesn’t need a name or logo on their watches, yet still remain distinctive and recognizable to many enthusiasts is ochs und junior. From displaying the date through a series of holes around the dial, through to a moon phase complication accurate to 1 day every 122 years, the brand has continued to push ingenuity in function and display while keeping steadfastly true to its design ethos. Like many others, my admiration for the brand and designs have continued to grow, yet this is the first time I’ve held one in my hands. $2300 Hands-On: the ochs und junior Settimana Seasons “Autumn” Case Titanium Movement Sellita SW200-1 Dial Light Orange Lume SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Textile Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 40 x 41mm Thickness 13mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $2300 The watch I’m looking at today forms part of ochs und junior’s more affordable (and non-customizable) collections. What you see offered is what you can get. There is no choice of case material. No long list of dial, hand, disc and marker combinations. For some customers this probably doesn’t represent the full ochs und junior experience. For others, like me, restricting the choices to a small selection of pre-defined...

Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR 03 Former Olympic Nov 8, 2023

Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03

Former Olympic cycling coach Dave Brailsford once said, “If you broke down everything you could think of that goes into riding a bike, and then improved it by 1%, you will get a significant increase when you put them all together”. The new Bell & Ross BR 03 features several small tweaks to its most iconic line of watches, and although not every modification is objectively ‘better’, the combination of all of the changes give us a watch that somehow feels less intense and therefore significantly more wearable. I’ve spent some time with the new BR 03 Military Ceramic to work out just what makes it feel so different. On the face of it, not much has changed. A reduction in case diameter from 42mm all the way down to 41mm isn’t earth-shattering. Without seeing the two side by side you would be hard-pressed to know which one you are looking at. The other case changes are just as subtle. The shape has been altered slightly to round the corners a little more. The introduction of the BR 05 in 2019 saw a much softer ‘square’ shape from Bell and Ross. The new BR 03 remains much closer to the square instrument panel shape the brand is famous for, but the silhouette reshaping is one of those 1% changes mentioned above. $4300 Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Case Micro Blasted ceramic Movement BR-CAL.302 Dial Khaki Lume Numerals and hands Lens Sapphire Strap Khaki rubber Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 41 x 50mm Thickness 10.6mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Pu...

Bremont’s Refreshes the Supermarine S302 Worn & Wound
Bremont s Refreshes Oct 31, 2023

Bremont’s Refreshes the Supermarine S302

Bremont is launching a new generation of Supermarines with not one, not two, but three configurations. The headliner is a special edition created in partnership with freedivers and conservationists Ocean Ramsey and Juan Oliphant, while the other two are regular production models with new color schemes and materials. The Supermarine line has been a mainstay for Bremont, and this infusion of models looks to take it to the next level. Let’s get the specs out of the way: all three new references are 40 mm wide, 49 mm long, and 13 mm thick. Lug widths are a friendly 20 mm, and the cases are made of scratch resistant DLC treated stainless steel. Unidirectional ceramic bezels (more on that later) surround four-handed dials with dates at 3. A modified caliber BE-932AV provides 50 hours of power reserve, and water resistance is rated at 300 meters. All the Supermarines are Chronometer rated to the ISO 3159 standard. First up, the Supermarine Ocean. Limited to 400 pieces, this model is designed with respect to Ocean and Juan’s work with sharks and other endangered sea creatures. The bezel, dial, and integrated rubber strap are appropriately called “Thresher Grey,” and proceeds from each sale will benefit the “Save the Turtles International” charity. Aesthetically, the gray and beige tones work well with the orange text on the dial, rehaut, and GMT hand. Note that, like the S302 JET, the 24-hour bezel on the Supermarine Ocean is monochromatic. The watch can be configured ...

Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Oct 23, 2023

Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40

British watch brand Fears has revealed new dial colours for one of its primary offerings, the Brunswick 40. The new variants are the Aurora with a mother-of-pearl dial, and the Copper Salmon with its eponymous metallic finish. But the two are not just cosmetic updates as the model has also undergone some improvements, including a larger 40 mm case and a novel typeface employed for the numerals. Initial thoughts Since the re-establishment of the Fears brand six years ago, I have always held an appreciation for the vintage-inspired design of the Brunswick in particular, with its cushion-shaped case and the subtle dial detailing. The highlight among the new additions would be the Aurora, which stands out from the rest of the Fears catalogue. Its mother-of-pearl dial that is comprised of two parts and finished by hand, giving each dial a unique look. The Aurora Having said that, the large case size of 40 mm does leave the new Brunswick somewhat substantial especially given its shape, bringing to mind to the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta. And with a case height of about 11 mm – not thick but not thin either – the case will sit fairly tall on the wrist. The pricing of the new Brunswick depends on the dial: the Copper Salmon is priced at £3,550 with a strap, while the Aurora is available for £3,850, with either being approximately £200 more with the bracelet. These prices are consistent with the existing models in the current collection. Considering the intrinsic features of ...

Timor Launches a Contemporary Take on their Classic “Dirty Dozen” Watch Worn & Wound
Oct 10, 2023

Timor Launches a Contemporary Take on their Classic “Dirty Dozen” Watch

Field watches, as Zach alluded to earlier this week, are, in some sense, the best kind of watch. Free from extraneous moving parts or features, field watches are designed to do what watches do – tell time legibly and not break. At no point was this more necessary than during World War II when Britain’s Ministry of Defense issued a request for durable watches under the specification “WWW”: wrist, watch, waterproof. One of the famous 12 companies (AKA the Dirty Dozen) that answered the call was the Timor Watch Company. The rest, as they say, is history, and eight decades later we have the modern successor to the Timor WWW. Let’s get the specs out of the way: The new Modern Field 100M’s case is PVD-coated 316L steel for maximum stealth, and the domed crystal is also treated to combat glare. Timor has elected to preserve the watch’s historic 36.5mm size while keeping the remaining dimensions very reasonable: 12mm thick, 45.5mm lug to lug (18mm lug width), and 94 grams on the seat belt nylon strap. Inside is a modified Sellita SW260 movement. Water resistance is 100 meters, which Timor considers perfect “in rain, river, or during a rigorous workout.” The dial of the Modern Field 100M is what you would expect from a no-nonsense watch: Large Arabic hour markers paired with their 24-hour equivalents. Along the chapter ring is a smaller scale of 5-minute increments. Simple pencil hour and minute hands, carried over from the original Timor Dirty Dozen, make time-te...

Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California Worn & Wound
Isotope Hydrium California Isotope initially Sep 28, 2023

Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California

Isotope initially piqued my interest two years ago with their uniquely design-forward Hydrium “Will Return” dive watch. This timepiece was intentionally crafted to resemble the iconic “Will Return” sign often seen in shop windows, and its “Why not?” approach left a lasting impression on me.  Fast forward two years, and Isotope, founded in 2016 by José and Joana Miranda and headquartered in England, has expanded its Hydrium line with the Hydrium California. This watch, like its predecessors, boldly defies the conventions of typical dive watches, drawing inspiration from Isotope’s own heritage as much as from classic dive watches from the past century.  $1115 Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California Case Stainless steel Movement Landeron Automatic Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap FKM Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 48mm Thickness 12.9mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1115 When the Hydrium Califonia first arrived the first thing I noticed was its case. The starkly uniform bead-blasted finish, which reduces the risk of unwanted reflections that may attract predators during ocean adventures according to Isotope, immediately let me know I could expect this quirky dive watch to be utilitarian not only by design, but also in practice.  I eagerly strapped it to my wrist and, despite its generous thickness of 14.9mm, including the double-domed Sapphire Crystal, was pleased to learn that it wears true to its 40 mm diame...

Corum Looks Forward (and Back) with the Futuristic Concept Watch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus Sep 1, 2023

Corum Looks Forward (and Back) with the Futuristic Concept Watch

Corum’s latest creation is the Concept Watch, a one-off timepiece that departs from the brand’s current offerings in its futuristic style. For a brand better known for the Golden Bridge and Admiral’s Cup, the Concept Watch is bold, different, and not for everyone. Made of recycled titanium, the case contains a movement with a flying tourbillon and sapphire crystal bridges set against an aventurine base. The movement, however, is a La Joux-Perret calibre that’s been found in Corum watches for several years. Initial thoughts With most of its sports watches being large and ostentatious, it’s good to see the brand shifting towards something more elegant. The Concept Watch is compact at under 40 mm in diameter and relatively restrained in design. While it is more appealing than most of Corum’s recent watches, there are caveats. I am not fond of the case design, which is too reminiscent of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. A round case with apertures that maximises the view of the movement, one similar to that of the Franc Villa FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, would have made this less derivative. Also, the strap attachment appears awkward, and will probably not make its way into other ways. At the same time, even though the design is a break from the past, the CO374 movement has been employed by Corum for more than a decade now. It is a La Joux-Perret calibre found in various forms across several brands, including the Arnold & Son TES Tourbillon. Notably, Corum debuted a...

Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44 Worn & Wound
Seiko NH38A automatic Dial Black Aug 23, 2023

Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44

Just a few short weeks ago, Vero introduced their officially-licensed Smokey the Bear watches that were inspired not only by the bear himself, but the era in which he came into existence. Today, we’re taking a look at the Smokey ’44. It’s inspired by the military watches of the 1940s, blended with a wildfire-themed color palette and a depiction of the friendly-but-stern bear right at 12 o’clock on the dial. This officially-licensed piece of Smokey swag is a great representation of both Vero as a brand and what Smokey the Bear stands for. Vero isn’t all talk either, being that 10% of all sales go directly back to the US Forest Service for conservation efforts. Let’s take a closer look, and remember - only you can prevent wildfires. $450 Hands-On: the Vero Smokey ’44 Case Stainless steel Movement Seiko NH38A automatic Dial Black, textured Lume Green SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Leather + canvas Water Resistance 120 meters Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 12mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty 10 years Price $450 Case Clocking in at a comfortable 38mm, the case of the ’44 wears really well on my 6.75” wrist. There’s nothing overly notable about the case, and I say that in a good way. It’s a straightforward field watch with a sturdy case that inspires confidence that it’ll stand up to whatever you want to throw at it. With 120m of water resistance, the ’44 has more than enough protection from H2O for a swim and then some. I like how Vero c...

The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is exceedingly German and exceedingly dapper Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Aug 18, 2023

The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is exceedingly German and exceedingly dapper

Glashütte Original’s most underrated watch is now chronometer-certified… But not by COSC Its Panorama Date brings a signature Glashütte twist to a marine chronometer aesthetic Glashütte pivots from their typical striping to a 3/4 bridgeplate with a frosted finish Glashütte Original’s really cooking at the moment, with the German brand having released some serious stunners … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is exceedingly German and exceedingly dapper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot’s Lightens Up with the Big Bang Unico Sky Blue Worn & Wound
Hublot s Lightens Up Aug 15, 2023

Hublot’s Lightens Up with the Big Bang Unico Sky Blue

More and more, the luxury industry is looking to redefine what it means to be a “neutral” color. Instead of black, why not try a dark red? Instead of tan, a hunter green may do the trick. And if navy is a bit passe, then perhaps a lighter blue has just as much sophistication, but with a bit more impact on the wrist. Or, at least that’s the case with Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sky Blue. Inspired by summer sunshine and the cloudless skies that accompany it, Hublot’s latest watch is vibrant while remaining refined. To accomplish this balance, Hublot has leaned into their brand identity as a watchmaker that marries technical precision with a robust design language. The watch has a strong presence on the wrist at 42mm, which is enhanced by the added details, such as the metal rivets, crown, and complementary colored strap. The case of the watch itself is made of high-tech, ultra-tough ceramic, something the Swiss brand has become known for in the industry, that gives Hublot a lot of control over the color of their end product.  The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is powered by an in-house automatic movement called the Unico. Composed of 354 pieces and providing over 72-hours of power reserve, the Unico HUB1280 movement is a celebration of the Swiss watchmaking tradition. Like many watches in Hublot’s various collections, the Sky Blue has a skeletonized dial, allowing the wearer to witness the internal workings of this watch throughout the day. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is l...