Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for Powermatic 80 (ETA C07.111)

966 articles · 1,766 videos found · page 28 of 92

Year in Review: Eight Predictions for 2025 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin VC will all mark Dec 26, 2024

Year in Review: Eight Predictions for 2025

Twenty twenty-five will be shaped by several factors, ranging from major anniversaries for a trio of important high horology brands, to economic reality where the slowdown in demand will reshape retail channels (and already led one watch brand to go bust). And the coming year will also see the still-unknowable Rolex strategy unfold, which might happen under the radar but will definitely be interesting. Big watches for a big year Next year will be a milestone for trio of important brands. Audemars Piguet (AP), Breguet, and Vacheron Constantin (VC) will all mark significant anniversaries: 150 years at AP, 250 years of Breguet, and 270 years for VC. This implies some major timepieces or even mechanical objects are on the way. Such watches are practically convention as landmark anniversaries are often platforms for brands to launch major watches. Some of the most complicated watches in contemporary watchmaking were anniversary creations – Patek Philippe marked 150 years with the Calibre 89, and then 175 years with the Grandmaster Chime. The Patek Philippe Calibre 89 launched in 1989 for its 150th anniversary. Image – Patek Philippe Museum In 2005, when VC marked its 250th year, it launched the Tour de l’Ile, which was the most complicated wristwatch in the world at the time, and also the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction that year. With that in mind, VC might be working on something that lives up to its status as a maker of haute horlogerie complications. The Vac...

My Year in Watches: ‘Cause You Only Turn 40 Once Worn & Wound
Dec 19, 2024

My Year in Watches: ‘Cause You Only Turn 40 Once

At the end of last year, we made “resolutions,” and while I forgot we had done that until writing this post, I stayed pretty true to what I had said. I wanted to consolidate, focus, and potentially go big on a watch for my 40th birthday. I had to do the first to make the last part come true, and the second just kind of happened naturally. My tastes have changed quite a bit over the last two years, perhaps starting with the Bel Canto (shameless review plug). As such, I find myself drawn to a specific type of indie watch more and more, and frankly, I find most releases from large brands kind of boring. While that might be more of a “it’s not you, it’s me” kind of thing, I don’t see it changing anytime soon. But, back to my birthday, turning 40 was something I ignored until it was upon me. I’m not a big birthday celebration guy, but 40 felt different; it’s a bit of a terrifying number, thus it needed to be marked meaningfully. And, well, I can’t turn down a good opportunity to horologically spoil myself. However, to go big, I had to let several things go. While I’ll avoid the details, all said and done, I sold six watches and traded one, though in fairness, not all before making my purchase (you know how it is). I went down a rabbit hole of options, obsessing, as I tend to do, to such an extent that I even dreamed about scrolling Chrono24. Custom pieces, indies, vintage, big Swiss, maybe nothing; I pondered them all, even creating renders of potential be...

Hands-On: the Beaucroft Element “Forest Green” Worn & Wound
Dec 19, 2024

Hands-On: the Beaucroft Element “Forest Green”

Since their founding in 2020, Beaucroft has worked to blend historic timekeeping techniques with a bit of modern style to create watches at an affordable price point and attract a new generation of watch enthusiasts. Located in Cambridge, England, this independent British brand has partnered with Horologium for final assembly, testing, and regulation, creating a collection of watches with notable British provenance. Beaucroft’s newest watch, the Element, aims to become your new “GADA” (Go Anywhere, Do Anything”) watch with a touch of modern flair while retaining classic sport watch features. With six different dial colors currently available, you can find an Element to be as bold, or as stealthy, as you want. Within the independent and micro-brand space, first impressions of a brand are a critical moment in the relationship with the consumer, setting a tone that will either be reinforced or broken over time. For many consumers out there, the unboxing of a watch is often this first impression, as many of our favorite brands ship directly to consumers. While unboxing the Beaucroft for the first time, I was greeted with a dark teal leather service pouch, embossed with Beaucroft’s logo on the front flap. While service pouches are quite common in the industry, I always like seeing one included with a watch as it allows your watch to have a transportable “home”, for those moments when it does leave your wrist.  More so, it gives an appearance that the brand knows ...

The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Dec 15, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians

Originally conceived for pilots of the US military (and covered here by Fratello), the Omega Speedmaster Pilot is now available to civilians. The origins of the watch explain the military-influenced, instrument-style dial design, which is meant to evoke the utilitarian nature of an instrument panel inside a fighter jet. The regular production version of the watch retains the same specs as the military exclusive, but with different livery. The case has the straight lugs of the Speedmaster “Ed White” but in a larger format thanks to the automatic cal. 9900 inside. Initial thoughts I’m something of an outlier amongst enthusiasts since I prefer automatic to manual-wind, even within the Speedmaster collection. While a manual-wind movement is traditional for the Speedy, I appreciate the day-to-day convenience of an automatic. Additionally, Omega’s latest-generation automatic chronograph movements are all impressively high-spec. While the Speedmaster Pilot may not achieve the same aesthetic purity as its manual-wind counterparts, it remains an excellent everyday option, especially with the military provenance. That said, the military provenance is not exactly military-issue. The watch was designed for military pilots who presumably buy it on a personal basis for off-duty wear; it is not an actual mil-spec instrument watch. This can be seen in the dial design, which has aviation-inspired elements, rather than actual, functional indicators for pilots. Even though this is m...

First Look – High Jewellery Meets High Horology with the New Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 Monochrome
Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 Abraham-Louis Dec 4, 2024

First Look – High Jewellery Meets High Horology with the New Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358

Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) embraced all facets of horology, from his gravity-defying tourbillon regulator to his neoclassical design language and legible displays. While the Reine de Naples is the go-to collection for women, last year, Breguet dipped into its Classique collection and confected two dazzling jewellery models: the Classique Tourbillon 3358. The latest interpretation in white […]

Hands On: Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861 SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster “First Omega Dec 4, 2024

Hands On: Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861

Omega revived the CK 2998-inspired Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” earlier in the year. More than just another remake, I am convinced the FOiS may just be the perfect Speedmaster, at least for me. The second-generation “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) sports details that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a blue-grey “soleil” dial and domed sapphire crystal that completes the vintage-inspired look. And it’s powered by the latest generation Moonwatch cal. 3861. Initial thoughts Despite being interested in watches since my sophomore year in high school, I can’t say that the Speedmaster was ever a go-to watch for me. I have had a couple of Speedies here and there, but the model was never the centre of my attention as a collector. I mostly felt the modern Speedmaster, in its many forms, is good, especially for the price point, but never perfect. Based on that experience, I didn’t expect much of the FOiS, thinking it be yet another reissue, which is why I hesitated when I got the call from the Omega boutique in Seoul. My opinion changed when I went to the boutique to try it on. I was surprised to see how appealing it looked on the wrist, especially compared to the first-generation FOiS that was too plain with a black dial that seemed flat. Others seem to share my opinion. The critical response to the new FOiS has been mostly positive, other than the familiar debate over the faux-aged lume, which some find excessive but I personally don’t mind. In fact, I ...

Auction: Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch No. 001 for Charity SJX Watches
Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch Dec 2, 2024

Auction: Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch No. 001 for Charity

Soon to go on the block at Sotheby’s upcoming New York sale is the very first Citizen 100th Anniversary Special Limited Edition Pocket Watch, numbered “001/100” on the case back. The penultimate lot in the sale that will take place on December 6, the pocket watch is being sold to benefit 1% for the Planet, the environmental charity whose founders include the entrepreneur who established outdoor clothing brand Patagonia. Included with the pocket watch is a special edition copy of Citizen: The Essence of Time, a book that details the brand’s history over the past century. The book is numbered “001/100” to match the watch. The cal. 0270 Launched earlier this year to mark the centennial of Citizen’s first-ever watch, the anniversary pocket watch was inspired by the original 1924 timepiece. Though it has a vintage-inspired aesthetic, the pocket watch is entirely modern in construction and materials. The delicately textured dial is made via electrodeposition, while the case is polished titanium. More notably, the case houses the in-house cal. 0270, a newly developed manual-wind movement with a sophisticated construction that includes a free-sprung balance. After the automatic cal. 0200, this is the second mechanical movement unveiled by Citizen, continuing its progress in developing a stable of high-end in-house calibres. (We reviewed the pocket watch in detail last month.) Estimated to sell for around US$10,000-15,000, the pocket watch “001/100” will be sold a...

Louis Erard Introduces Le Régulateur Inspired by Vianney Halter’s Antiqua SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Le Régulateur Inspired Nov 28, 2024

Louis Erard Introduces Le Régulateur Inspired by Vianney Halter’s Antiqua

Having unveiled its first Vianney Halter collaboration in 2020, Louis Erard now follows up with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II that’s notably superior in style and details. Modelled on the Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter II retains the usual Louis Erard regulator format, but smartly tweaked to replicate key elements of the Antiqua, including the rivets on the bezel, case profile, and multi-part dial. The new regulator is offered in two limited editions of 178 pieces each: the one with a silvered dial and gilt chapter rings is available only on Louis Erard’s online store, while the second edition with an inverted dial finish will only be sold at the brand’s retailers around the world. The Louis Erard e-commerce exclusive (left), and the retailer edition Initial thoughts Louis Erard has rolled out numerous collaborations with independent watchmakers. Most of them are convincing tributes to the original, but of varying levels of customisation. A good number of them employ the stock regulator case but with an edition-specific dial, which was the case for the first Vianney Halter collab. The new Vianney Halter regulator, on the other hand, features components unique to this model, giving it a distinctive look. The dial, case, bezel, and case back are all made for this edition, with only the movement being stock. As result, this captures the look and feel of the original watch that inspired it much better than past collabo...

Auction: Japanese Watches in Demand at Phillips’ Toki Sale SJX Watches
Seiko Nov 25, 2024

Auction: Japanese Watches in Demand at Phillips’ Toki Sale

A thematic sale of watches related to Japan, Toki just concluded at Phillips in Hong Kong over the weekend, notching up HK$61.8 million with fees, equivalent to US$7.95 million. Comprised of watches sold in Japan or made for the country, the catalogue included familiar names like Seiko and Casio, but also independent watchmakers like Masahiro Kikuno, along with a host of limited editions by Swiss brands for the Japanese market. A novel concept given the dominance of Swiss brands in watch auctions, both in terms of value and volume, Toki surprised on the upside. The 115-lot auction included lots of surprising and notable results, like HK$1.14 million (about US$147,000) for the Casio G-Shock Dream Project, double the original retail price. Thomas Perazzi at the rostrum. Image – Phillips Toki and the subsequent main sale showed the momentum established during the Geneva auctions two weeks ago carried on into Hong Kong. The strength of the sale is also credit to the Phillips watch department in Asia led by Thomas Perazzi, which conceived Toki a year ago with the help of Tokyo-based consultants for Phillips, Kaz Fujimoto and Genki Sakamoto. The unusual theme was realised well with a carefully curated catalogue. Many of the watches in Toki were simply unavailable anywhere else. With only 35 made and all sold via a lottery in 2020, where else can one find a solid-gold G-Shock? This reflected in the diverse nature of the bidders. Most bids in the sale came from phone bidders an...

Business News: Seddiqi Introduces Rolex Certified Pre-Owned SJX Watches
Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Nov 22, 2024

Business News: Seddiqi Introduces Rolex Certified Pre-Owned

The Middle East’s largest luxury watch retailer, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, has just announced the debut of Rolex Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) in Dubai, starting with a dedicated CPO salon and followed by offerings online. Kicking off with several million dollars of inventory, Rolex CPO cements family-run Seddiqi’s status as one of the world’s leading Rolex retailers. While Rolex CPO in most countries is associated with recent models, Seddiqi’s CPO programme aims to go beyond that and also offer watches of interest to enthusiasts. The CPO line-up, including rare gem-set as well as vintage models, has been curated by members of the Seddiqi family, including chief executive Mohammed Seddiqi. “[CPO] not only enhances our overall offering but also creates an exciting new platform for watch enthusiasts to pursue their passion for exceptional timepieces,” says Mr Seddiqi, “[And] providing them with a certified pathway to acquire elusive and rare timepieces.” As is the norm for Rolex CPO, each watch at the CPO salon has been serviced and certified by Rolex. As a result, all watches will be accompanied by a CPO guarantee card and two-year warranty. The CPO salon will open November 29, 2024 inside the Rolex boutique in Wafi Mall, followed by CPO offerings on Seddiqi’s online store in early 2025. For more information, visit Seddiqi.com  

Collective Horology and Zenith Collaborate on a Limited Edition Defy Skyline Worn & Wound
Zenith Collaborate Nov 19, 2024

Collective Horology and Zenith Collaborate on a Limited Edition Defy Skyline

Collective Horology, the Southern California based retailer of independent watches, has unveiled their most recent collaboration, their second with Zenith. The ​​Zenith Defy Skyline C.X follows the El Primero C.01, Collective’s very first limited edition which was released into a very different watch landscape in 2019. Collective has changed along with the watch industry – they’ve become a full fledged retailer of independent watch brands, and have nixed the “members only” concept that the company was born with. It’s fair to say that Collective’s scope has widened considerably since 2019: their goal seems to be spreading the gospel of independent watchmaking at a huge range of price points to anyone who will listen, while continuing to hone in on storytelling in their own limited edition releases to make each of them feel special in their own way.  The Skyline C.X takes the latest version of Zenith’s Defy Skyline and strips it back aesthetically to resemble an imagined version of what the watch might have been had it debuted in the 1970s when the Defy collection was beginning to take shape. The theme Collective and Zenith are playing with for this edition is that of midcentury industrial design. To that end, virtually every surface of the case (and bracelet) has been given a micro blasted finish for a sleek, industrial look, and the familiar star motif seen on most Skyline dials has been given a dramatic gradient effect, with the engraved stars appeari...

Hands On: Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt Oval Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Nov 6, 2024

Hands On: Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt Oval Pocket Watch

A storied example of artisanal independent watchmaking, The Oval was the masterpiece by Derek Pratt (1938-2009), perhaps the greatest unknown watchmaker. Pratt began work on the Oval in 1982 as his magnum opus, the ultimate realisation of his aesthetic and technical vision. While his work for Urban Jürgensen is perhaps his best known, Pratt was an independent watchmaker with a diverse repertoire, including working with George Daniels on the co-axial escapement. Amongst his creations was a replica of John Harrison’s H4 marine chronometer. These projects, as well as the fact that the Oval was mostly hand made, meant the pocket watch took some two decades to complete. Although it’s a sizeable watch, the Oval is finely detailed, reflecting the high level of Pratt’s craft and the years he invested in creating the watch from scratch. Beyond its artisanal execution, the Oval also stands out for its technical achievement. Besides a detent escapement, the Oval also contains a horological first – a constant force mechanism integrated within the tourbillon – along with a thermometer, power reserve display, and moon phase on the dial. We took an in-depth look at the Oval in 2021, thanks to its current owner, Dr Helmut Crott. But now as the Oval heads to the auction block at Phillips, it’s worth one last look before it disappears into a collection. A two-decade odyssey A contemporary and friend of George Daniels (1926-2011), Pratt was one of the most talented horologists o...

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Nov 4, 2024

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype

One of the most significant examples of contemporary watchmaking, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” will soon go on the block at Phillips. Consigned by the estate of the original owner – meaning it’s a one-owner watch for over three decades – the “15/93” prototype carries within it the magic of independent watchmaking to a degree that rivals the landmark timepieces like the George Daniels Space Traveller’s Watch. The history of this tourbillon is well known: it is the second wristwatch made by François-Paul Journe, and the first one he sold. In early 1992 he sold it to a Parisian collector for a price that in hindsight is profoundly ridiculous, but was probably an extraordinary price to pay for a watch like this at the time. The gentleman who bought it owned it for some 32 years and clearly wore it often. There is no doubt he understood what the watch represented, even years ago before it was valuable, because he retained all of the original documentation that came with the watch, including copies of the technical plans. To the late original owner of this watch: you have my respect and admiration. “Prototype” Although I describe this as a prototype, it more accurately one specimen of a small series of hand-made watches. This series formed the template for the later Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité that was produced on a larger scale, albeit only numbering in the dozens, initially by hand and then with more industrial met...

Hublot and Takashi Murakami Team Up for the New MP-15 Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow Worn & Wound
Hublot Oct 29, 2024

Hublot and Takashi Murakami Team Up for the New MP-15 Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow

There is always something so intriguing to me about a collaboration when the brands really just go for it. But, I guess if one of the collaborators is Takashi Murakami, it’s sort of hard not to. For those uninitiated, Murakami is a contemporary Japanese artist whose work is at once psychedelic and joyful – but leans just a tad into the grotesque. But even if you don’t know the name, you’re undoubtedly familiar with the artist’s work. Murakami has collaborated with a wide range of celebrities, from Marc Jacobs to Kanye West (long before his anti semitic rants, for the record) to Pharrell Williams. And now, Murakami adds yet another collaboration with Hublot. The MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow is really one of those watches that makes you pause. It will, undoubtedly, have its naysayers who might prefer a more conservative style; but there’s something incredibly charming about this one for me. On the one hand, there is a level of craftsmanship that’s evident even from the photos; but it’s also an element of playfulness that intrigues me – especially when we’re talking about a watch that’s in the *ahem* $374,000 price range. You may remember that Murakami and Hublot have previously collaborated in the past, most notably on the Classic Fusion model with a decidedly Murakami lean. But that was just putting Murakami’s art within the context of Hublot. In 2023, they had released an MP-15 that showed the floral design but in a skeletal ca...

IWC Reveals Details of Ceramic Matrix Composite SJX Watches
IWC Reveals Details Oct 15, 2024

IWC Reveals Details of Ceramic Matrix Composite

Having made its debut with the Big Pilot AMG G 63 a year ago, ceramic matrix composite (CMC) is an innovative material currently unique to IWC in watchmaking. Little was disclosed about the material at launch, but IWC has just released additional detail on CMC. Notably, the material was developed in collaboration with the Deutsches Zentrum für Luft- und Raumfahrt (DLR), or German Aerospace Center, a national research institute specialising in aerospace, travel, energy, and even quantum computing. While novel materials are common in watchmaking, brands rarely reveal the origin of the materials, making this collaboration notable. Moreover, the DLR is a highly regarded, independent technical institute, which arguably gives CMC more credibility (and cachet) than most composites employed in watchmaking. Utilising a space-qualified like CMC in a watch tied to a high-performance SUV, however, seems to be a missed opportunity, though it’s a certainty IWC has plans for the the material. Blocks of CMC Staying true to size Fibre ceramic composites are a new class of materials, which combine the surface hardness of conventional ceramics with high tolerance to mechanical and thermal shocks. DLR’s previous work with ceramic composites revolved around making large components for aerospace applications, namely rockets or satellites. The institute was looking to adapt its short-fibre pressing technology for making smaller, near-net-shape parts – not unlike a watch case. Near-net-sha...

Modern Hues for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase SJX Watches
Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase Sporting Oct 8, 2024

Modern Hues for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase

Sporting a moon phase and retro design, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase was originally available only in sedate colours of cream and silver. Now the line grows to include dials in Havana beige, anthracite and green. Unlike the recent Conquest Heritage, the Moonphase is not a vintage reproduction, rather it’s a blend of vintage and modern, with the bonus of a solid 18k gold medallion on the back portraying a caravel on a blue sea of grand feu enamel. Initial thoughts The new trio are essentially cosmetic expansions of the line, so they do not seem novel on paper, but they are a smartly conceived products. The traditional styling is preserved, but with dials in striking colours that are now much more lively. The earlier versions were arguably too plain, with the subdued colours seeming a bit flat. The Flagship Heritage Moonphase is one of Longines’ more expensive models at US$3,050, but nonetheless is decent value considering the top-of-the-line ETA movement and solid-gold, hand-enamelled emblem on the back. Calendar complications Like most models in Longines’ vintage-based Heritage Classic collection, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase is compact by modern standards, but larger than the actual vintage originals. The stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm in thickness. Simple in style, the case has a domed, polished bezel and short, angular lugs with polished chamfers along their edges. Slightly domed to mimic a vintage watch, the dial is finished with a ...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s NYC Boutique Oct 6, 2024

[VIDEO] Four Unique Finds Currently at Grand Seiko’s NYC Boutique

The Grand Seiko Flagship Boutique located on Madison Avenue in New York City is a key, new destination for watch enthusiasts when visiting the city. This multi-level flagship store is the largest Grand Seiko Boutique globally with an impressive presence on the corner of Madison Avenue and 55th Street. Not only is it a well-designed experience, it’s a retail location that at any given moment is able to source extremely unique Grand Seiko references from around the world-even some rare and difficult to find pieces. In today’s video hosted by Worn & Wound Co-Founder and Executive Editor Zach Weiss, we’re visiting the boutique, meeting with Eric Downs, the boutique’s manager, and taking a look at four unique timepieces, three of which are only currently available only at this location, at this time. Zach breaks down each of the models and gives a brief description of why it’s a unique GS watch, especially for the US market.  Enjoy the video and please be sure to make the Grand Seiko Flagship Boutique, at 540 Madison Avenue, a must-see stop on your next trip to NYC. Don’t hesitate to stroll on in, meet their friendly, knowledgeable team, and ask if there’s anything extra special on display! The post [VIDEO] Four Unique Finds Currently at Grand Seiko’s NYC Boutique appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet SJX Watches
Breguet Breguet has Oct 6, 2024

Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet

Breguet has a new boss, Gregory Kissling, who started as chief executive at the beginning of October. Born in Neuchâtel – just like Abraham-Louis Breguet himself – Mr Kissling takes over one of the most storied brands in watchmaking. Although Breguet has ceded ground to its haute horlogerie competitors in recent years, the brand remains exceptional in terms of history and significance. Mr Kissling will no doubt seek to restore some of the brand’s glory. Appealing products will be key to that, and Mr Kissling has a strong track record. A micro-mechanical engineer by training, Mr Kissling began his career as a movement constructor at Cartier. He soon joined Omega as product manager in 2004, where he steadily rose through the ranks in product development. Two years ago Mr Kissling was named vice president of product at Omega, making him one of the most senior leaders of the company. Gregory Kissling outside the Breguet manufacture in Le Chenit Mr Kissling’s time in product development has seen Omega unveil watches that were well received by enthusiasts, particularly vintage-inspired Speedmaster models. Amongst the projects he was responsible for was the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321. He also worked on wider projects that spanned Swatch Group, including the development of proprietary precious metal alloys like Sedna and Moonshine gold. As the chief executive of Breguet, Mr Kissling reports to president Marc Hayek, who oversees the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group, na...

Omega Revives the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861 SJX Watches
Omega Revives Oct 3, 2024

Omega Revives the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861

Omega is reissuing the Speedmaster CK2998 with the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” that’s powered by powered by the latest-generation Moonwatch movement, the Co-Axial Master Chronometer cal. 3861. But the “First Omega in Space” (FOIS) is also a keen-eyed remake of the original and sports a detail enthusiasts will appreciate: the stepped dial is a subtle grey-blue dial that replicates the unique colour found on certain vintage Speedmasters made in the 1960s. Initial thoughts Omega issues enough vintage-inspired Speedmaster models that even someone familiar with watches like myself is sometimes confused. For the uninitiated, the FOIS and Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” will look very similar, but for the enthusiasts the distinction is clear. That said, the FOIS is one of the most appealing recent Speedmasters. The attention to detail in design is obvious and impressive. Moreover it’s a vintage remake with a twist: the grey-blue dial is esoteric enough that it looks different, but still a detail that Speedmaster fans will appreciate. The faux-vintage lume is a bit too much, but from a design perspective it works as the parchment lume complements the grey-blue dial. Add to that Omega’s typically high quality and relatively affordable price – this is marginally less expensive than the Moonwatch cal. 3861 with a sapphire crystal – and the new FOIS is both compelling and good value. CK 2998 returns The second Speedmaster model after the CK2915, the CK2998 was ...

Hamilton Adds White Dial and Bracelet to Khaki Field Murph 38 mm SJX Watches
Longines Sep 26, 2024

Hamilton Adds White Dial and Bracelet to Khaki Field Murph 38 mm

Originally conceived as a prop for the sci-fi film Interstellar, the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 mm is now available with a white dial or a stainless steel bracelet. This expands the Khaki Field Murph line two beyond the 42 mm original and the first 38 mm model that was only available with a black dial on a strap. The scaled-down Murph retains the same design as the original, which played a key role in the film directed by Christopher Nolan, which starred Jessica Chastain as Murph, a scientist working to save the Earth. Initial thoughts The Murph was a hit when it went from screen to store in 2019. It had a clean, vintage-military aesthetic with cathedral hands and no date, along with an affordable price tag. Now the white dial arguably gives it a more dynamic look than before, with the white adding contrast and also setting it apart from the numerous other military-inspired watches. Though the design isn’t novel, the Murph 38 mm is appealing for being simple and affordable. Starting at US$895 on a strap, the Murph 38 mm sits in between comparable watches from its sister brands Tissot and Longines, and is also in between in terms of fit and finish. In other words, it is priced right. Vintage-inspired aesthetics Water-resistant to 100 m, the Murph’s stainless steel case is a compact 38 mm in diameter, though tall at 11.1 mm high. The case is mainly brushed, except for the mirror-polished bezel. The optional steel bracelet has a matching brushed finish. And like most m...

Up Close: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier recently revived Sep 23, 2024

Up Close: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde

Having gone all in with the Tonda PF sports watch in the last couple of years, Parmigiani Fleurier recently revived its classic dress watch with the Toric Petite Seconde. Named after the model that launched the brand in 1996, the Toric Petite Seconde is a simple, three-hand watch. Despite its simplicity, the new Toric is expensively executed – the dial and hands are solid 18k gold, as are the bridges and base plate of the PF780 movement, a newly-developed manual-wind calibre. Style wise, the Toric takes after the earlier generation of the model and retains the signature knurled bezel, but presented in a minimalist manner with a wide, clean dial reminiscent of the Tonda PF. The platinum with a “grey celadon” dial (Editor’s note: The watches pictured are pre-production prototypes and consequently have imperfections in detail and finishing, including on the dial.) Initial thoughts Parmigiani accurately describes the Toric design as minimalist and the PF780 movement as modernist. And as expected of Parmigiani, the quality is excellent, inside and out. The Toric is dress watch but feels large at almost 41 mm in diameter, but the case stays thin at under 9 mm. Even though the Toric is obviously a dress watch, it almost also feels like a casual everyday watch because of the size, dial colours, and stock straps. I assume more formal dial colours like black in the pipeline; they would give this a decidedly different look. The case has the trademark knurled bezel, but is oth...

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection Teddy Baldassarre
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 18, 2024

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection

When A. Lange & Söhne makes a contribution to watchmaking, whether in the areas of technology, design, materials, or any combination of these or other elements, it tends to go above and beyond the call - to challenge itself to reach a little higher, to put its own distinctly Saxon spin on things. This philosophy is evident particularly in the brand’s approach to complications: not just a moon-phase, but a moon-phase that’s accurate for more than a century. Not just a tourbillon, but the first tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism. Not just a split-seconds chronograph, but the first “triple split” chronograph to make comparative time measurements of not just seconds and minutes but multiple hours.  It was in that overachieving spirit, no doubt, that Lange developed its own signature illumination system for watch dials, rolling it out in 2010 on the second generation of the groundbreaking Zeitwerk model that it had introduced the year prior. The system, called “Lumen” and patented in 2013, illuminates not only dial elements like hands and indexes in the dark but also components normally hidden beneath the dial’s surface, like date disks and decorated plates, wheels and bridges. Lange’s technical solution to the challenge of charging all of the elements uniformly - luminous-treated surface details like hands, hour markers and subdials, as well as non-treated parts beneath the surface - was a dial made of sapphire and coated with a semi-transparent ...

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025 SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Kross Studio Sep 17, 2024

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025

Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...