Results for Type XX

Introducing: Naoya Hida Launches Its Fourth Series, Now With A 36mm Case

The Japanese brand's Type 4A and Type 4A-1 are a smaller, sportier take on its vintage-inspired watches.

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition

The latest from Kurono Tokyo is a new version of their Calendrier Type I, a reference that was a finalist in the 2022 GPHG awards. A triple calendar is an old school complication, so it makes sense for a brand like Kurono to experiment on this platform, with their design language so deeply rooted in Art Deco principles and mid 20th century ideas around size and style. The new Calendrier is a Kurono anniversary model, thus it will be sold as a “time limited” edition, meaning prospective owners will have specific windows during which they can make a purchase, and Kurono will fill every order placed in these windows. Kurono has also announced that this will be the final version of the Calendrier Type I, so if this is a reference you’ve been hunting, we’re approaching your last chance to snag one directly from the brand.  Kurono has dubbed this model the Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki,” a name derived from the maroon color of the dial. Azuki means “red bean” in Japanese, and in Japan is a color commonly associated with cars. Maroon was once a common standard vehicle color, so this watch is subtly auto inspired and a throwback in more ways than one.  According to the brand, achieving this particular tone of maroon was a significant challenge. To get the color right, Kurono used phosphor-bronze rather than the typical brass for the dial material, which allows them to get the proper shade of red during the finishing process. Kurono notes that phosphor-bronze is m...

The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic Gets a “Fugu” Makeover

Name any type of environment or situation, whether that be diving the depths of the ocean, exploring far-flung terrains, or navigating the skies, the Citizen Promaster without question has a very-capable watch for the job. But given the sheer amount of watches in Citizen’s catalog, their bread and butter remains within their collection of dive watches. Sure, you’ll find a straight-forward steel black dial diver, it’s a must for any watch brand. But just like how you’ll find fish in the ocean, you can also expect to discover a handful of eccentric divers with inquisitive case silhouettes and lume dials that’ll keep up with any bioluminescent organism in the dark. Citizen’s new addition to the Promaster Dive Automatic collection leans more into its marine animal namesake, the “Fugu” which in Japanese, translates to “pufferfish,” with its new dial texture, caseback emblem and a couple of case updates. Now it’s going to be obvious that I’ve used this introduction for Citizens Promaster Dive Automatic novelties as an excuse to learn more about the pufferfish, so be prepared for some facts about the well-known Tetraodontidae family member. That said, let’s dig right into the updates to the case, shall we? The three new Citizen divers are now fitted with a sapphire crystal and a 120-click unidirectional bezel. With the insert still made out of aluminum, Citizen has changed the bezel system to offer higher timing precision during diving scenarios such as ...

New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky

If the bubbly Oyster Perpetual wasn’t quite whimsical enough for you, or was not the right type of colourful – Rolex has got you covered. Introduced in two new variants, it revives the funky stone dials of the 1970s and fully enters the realm of quirky with high-end champlevé enamel dials – emojis and inspirational … ContinuedThe post New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Pairing the Tudor Pelagos 39 & the Rolex Submariner 14060M

As much as I advocate for expanding your boundaries when it comes to the type of watches you experience, most of our time is spent in the middle of our lane. These are the comfort food of watches, the sweet spot you keep coming back to. For me, these are typically simple divers or tool watches, the archetype of which is of course the Submariner. Not very exciting, but a great everyday companion that’s easy to use and read, with an uncanny ability to pair with pretty much any outfit or look. Plenty of other watches fall into the category as well, but the Submariner sets the bar, and does so particularly well in the form of the reference 14060M. Where more modern references have veered ever so slightly into “it needs to make a statement” territory, there is a humbleness that remains within the 14060, if ever a word could be applied to a Submariner.  The peculiar vibe of the 14060 may be absent within the present catalog of Rolex sports watches, but that doesn’t mean it’s not out there in other more modern watches. In fact, you don’t have to stray far from the family to find such a candidate. Tudor has managed to capture a lot of the charm of early Rolex references in recent years, and one in particular strikes me as a perfect embodiment of what I love about 5 digit Subs, and that is the Pelagos 39. When this watch was introduced I referred to it as the modern Sub we never got, and expanded on that in my full review of the watch. I’ve since welcomed a P39 into ...

How I Got Here: The 28-Year-Old Design Whiz At AnOrdain

The Scottish brand's in-house type specialist takes us along on her journey from art student to watch designer.

Baume & Mercier Finally Debuts an Interesting Watch

After several years of drift – and a low-priced, Kickstarter-type watch – Baume & Mercier has finally returned with something surprisingly interesting. Based on the brand’s trademark oblong watch, the Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” is based on reproduces a work by the titular French artist on its dial in textured, three-dimensional relief. With the dial pattern apparent only up close and the case entirely in matte black, the aesthetic is strikingly low key. Like Mr Soulages’ best known works, the dial relies on texture, direction, and the absence of colour, although concessions are made for branding and time telling. Initial thoughts Though some of its ladies’ watches do well in certain markets, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) has had a difficult recent history. While cycling through several chief executives, the brand also launched a great variety of products over the period, but none of them really caught on. But now it has created something unexpected. The concept is straightforward – a dial that recreates a work of art – but it still manages to be original and unusual. Despite its simplicity, the watch manages to capture the artist’s spirit on a tiny canvas. The monochrome finish and emphasis on texture is exactly what Mr Soulages himself is famous for. The retail price of a bit under US$6,000 is pretty steep for a time-only watch powered by a stock ETA 2892, but several factors count in its favour. One is the intrinsic appeal of the watch, and another...

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers - The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from anywhere in the world, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is an annual affair that seeks to identify the most promising watchmakers of the future. Interestingly, any candidate who has “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction” can participate, whether or not he or she has formal training. A candidate can enter any type of timepiece – last year’s winner was 29-year old Mario Scarpatetti, whose entry was a longcase clock with a patented secular perpetual calendar mechanism of his own invention. The Kalendar Perpeten clock made by last year’s winner, Mario Scarpatetti Mr Scarpatetti won a CHF20,000 grant sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, which is once again the prize for the YTC 2022. The winner will the selected by a jury of industry notables that include Francois-Paul Journe himself, Philippe Dufour, and Giulio Papi, who will make their choice according to four criteria: originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on fpjourne.com.  

The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) - Reprise

There was a time when the walls of many children's rooms were decorated with images of iconic supercars cars like the Ferrari Testarossa, Porsche 959, Lamborghini Countach, and McLaren F1. Today those same walls in the rooms of a new generation of kids are decorated by a completely different type of car: the super SUV. Martin Green explains why in this satirical editorial.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co.

What constitutes the ultimate tool watch for you? Should the case be made of durable materials? Do you want a movement that’s robust, reliable and easy to service? Should the size be small enough so it’s not prone to daily encounters with a door jam? It’s these type of questions that Tool Watch Co. (I … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Collection elevates the humble field watch to new heights

In all my years of collecting, there is one type of watch pretty much everyone enjoys. The field watch. Its a watch that dates back to a time of conflict and bravery; times when the lives of many depended on it’s legibility and accuracy. That historical importance, coupled with its relative affordability are two of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Collection elevates the humble field watch to new heights appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Grand Seiko SBGZ007 is a masterpiece that evokes the starry skies of Japan

Masterpiece is a strong label. It’s not something to be taken lightly. Many of us in the watch journalism game get rightly chastised for throwing around terms such as ‘iconic’ willy-nilly. But with Grand Seiko, and their Masterpiece Collection, I can type with full confidence that their creations live up to the classification. These watches … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGZ007 is a masterpiece that evokes the starry skies of Japan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Everything you need in a watch from the Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021

It’s tough to find a watch that does everything that you want. The checklist of things you’d ideally have can be pretty long sometimes, whether it’s water resistance, functionality, size, material or the type of strap that it arrives on. But when you do find a watch that ticks most, if not all, of the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Everything you need in a watch from the Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is…

The people have spoken, and it is clear that within the Fantasy Watch Collection 10K I was the people’s champion. I take great pride in my victory, listening to Queen’s “We Are the Champions” as I type this story. But I recognise I could not have won without your support, and thank you, the readers, … ContinuedThe post You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Just Because: The Pros And Cons Of The Different Types Of Travel Watches

The invention of time zones gave us multi-time-zone watches. But which works best when you're on the road?

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection

Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...

Design a Ressence Wristwatch for Charity

Intended to raise funds for medical research, independent watchmaker Ressence has just announced Time to Draw, a wristwatch design contest. The contest calls for participants to design the dial of the Ressence Type 1 Slim wristwatch, and the winner will turned into an actual, one-off wristwatch – with the designer’s name engraved on the case – that will then be sold at Sotheby’s. The Type 1 Slim Proceeds will go to KU Leuven in Belgium, specifically to support the university’s COVID-19 coronavirus research programme that is working on a vaccine and advanced detection of the virus. Taking part in the contest is easy: Download the Type 1 Slim templates from Ressence.com Get to work with any type of design tool – physical or electronic (there are no restrictions on design tools) Specify the exact colour of every component, including typography and luminous paint Submit the design by email before the closing deadline – 2:00 pm GMT on May 12, 2020 For the design template and more details, visit Ressence.com.  

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Titanio DMLS PAM01117

At a glance, Panerai’s latest Luminor unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2020 might look like, well, just another Luminor. But the Luminor Marina Titanio DMLS (PAM01117) is more than that. It incorporates a new type of luminous paint with an extra-bright glow, while boasting a titanium case produced via a process similar to 3D printing. And most crucially, the watch is covered by a 70-year warranty. Given that Panerai’s identity is inextricably linked with legible, glow-in-the-dark dials, the new “lume” found on the Luminor DMLS makes sense. The watch features Super-Luminova X – a lot of it. Beyond the usual dial and hands, the new Luminor also had luminous paint on the flange around the dial, crown locking bridge and lever, and the stitching of the fabric strap. The use of “lume” as a decorative element brings to mind the Lumen series of A. Lange & Söhne (which is a sister brand of Panerai within Swiss luxury group Richemont), but here the luminous paint is executed in clean lines for a geometric pattern. Though the Luminor DMLS is a large 44 mm in diameter, it is only 100 g, making it the lightest Panerai watch with a metal alloy case. The case is produced via direct metal laser sintering (DMLS), the same process to make the case of the Lo Scienzato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM00578 from 2016. DMLS is a form of 3D printing where a laser is used to melt titanium powder tiny amounts at a time, layer by layer as the case is built up. The nature of the p...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze

Slightly retro and conventionally shaped, the Bell & Ross Vintage line is a popular counterpart to the brand’s better-known, all-square BR 01 and 03. The Vintage collection gets three new models at Baselworld 2020 – namely a time-only, GMT, and chronograph – including the BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze limited edition. Notably, the new BR V2 watches are offered with a type of elastic fabric strap secured by a small hook, often known as an “MN” strap. That’s short for Marine Nationale – the French navy – and reputedly comes from the fact that such straps were originally fabricated by from parachute webbing by French navy personnel, who were said to have been issued watches without straps. Named after l’Aéronavale, the air arm of the French navy, the BR V2-94 limited edition is inspired by the colours of the French navy’s dress uniform. So the dial is a dark, metallic blue, matched with gold-plated hands and hour markers, and a bronze case. And bezel is fixed and features a blue, anodised aluminium insert that allows for measurement of elapsed time. The 41 mm case is made of CuAl7Si2 bronze, an alloy that’s almost all copper, save for 7% aluminium and 2% silicon. Over time, the alloy acquires a brownish surface oxidisation, in contrast to the green verdigris of more common bronze alloys. And like the other BR V2 chronographs, this is powered by an ETA 2894-2, which is an ETA 2892 base with a chronograph module on top. The other additions to the line wi...

Up Close: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395

In terms of press, Breguet’s most significant watch of the year is a relatively simple one, the Type 20 for Only Watch, which sold for 210,000 Swiss francs at the charity auction, or just over four times the high estimate. But the most significant watch in terms of haute horlogerie is the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395. The ref. 5395 a large, thin, and ornate watch that’s actually a variant of the large, thin, and simple ref. 5367 introduced two years ago. More elaborate than the typical Breguet, the ref. 5395 is beautifully executed, down to the smallest elements, like the blued-gold hobnail hour markers or mirror-polished countersinks. But most importantly, the movement within is finished exceedingly well – by hand – to a level that’s a cut above the average Breguet complication. Most of that is obvious in the photos below. Graceful proportions At 41mm and just 7.7mm high – thinner than the 8.1mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” – the ref. 5395 sits elegant and flat on the wrist.  Compared to larger, and usually more complicated, Breguet watches, this feels like what a classical Breguet should be. Because of its diameter, however, it can look like a dinner plate on smaller wrists. And the ref. 5395 doesn’t work on hairy wrists either, because the skeletonisation leaves a wide gap in between the bridges. That’s because the skeletonisation of the cal. 581SQ inside is extreme; according to Breguet some 50% of the movement’s mass was removed. And th...

2018 Revolution Round-Up: Ressence

This year, at SIHH 2018, Ressence presented the Ressence Type 2 e-Crown Concept watch, an automated setting technology for mechanical watches.

VIDEO: Grand Seiko 101 - 3 things you need to know 

For years Grand Seiko was a very underground, for-those-in-the-know type brand; its visibility outside of Japan was limited, and its passionate supporters revelled in the arcana of cryptic reference numbers, nicknames and shorthand galore. All that changed a few years ago when Grand Seiko went global, but there’s still an air of mystique around the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko 101 – 3 things you need to know  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: 6 signs the Tudor Black Bay might be the watch for you

Earlier this week we gave you some helpful watch/life advice to see if you’re the sort of person who should strap a Tudor Pelagos on the wrist. This advice would have been quite helpful if you’re the action-and-adventure type, whose idea of a good time is scrambling over rocks. But if the only rocks you’re … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 6 signs the Tudor Black Bay might be the watch for you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 29th September, 2017 - the ‘Don’t Argue’ Edition, inc. all the arguments we started this week

In Australian rules football (AFL) there is a particular type of defensive move called the ‘don’t argue’. It involves fending off an opponent with an outstretched arm, usually at full pace. This image pretty much sums up the move, but if you need a 9-second tutorial, check this out. It’s brutal if you’re on the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 29th September, 2017 – the ‘Don’t Argue’ Edition, inc. all the arguments we started this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: A different kind of dive watch - the Oris Regulateur ‘Der Meistertaucher’

If you dive, or even if you don’t, then you may know that a diver’s regulator is the hub of their equipment – it is what makes breathing underwater possible, after all. We may not be referring to that type of regulator here, but the latest offering from Oris, the updated Regulateur ‘Der Meistertaucher’ (Master … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A different kind of dive watch – the Oris Regulateur ‘Der Meistertaucher’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date

Jaeger-LeCoultre turned heads with its latest affordable price range timepieces at the SIHH 2017. Adopting a Tudor, Longines type business strategy, the Maison is set to reel in the ideal buyer persona with their highly attractive yet affordable Master Control models.

Pocket Guide: Types of Chronograph Scales

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 12th August, 2016 - The Olympic Edition, by Michael Klim

Important note: My hands are shaking so much it’s hard to type. Why? Michael Klim, the Australian Olympian who did this to the Americans in 2000 – it’s embedded below, too. Sorry Americans.) just saw me in the gym and offered to do a ‘light circuit’ with me. I accepted. And now, I can’t type. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 12th August, 2016 – The Olympic Edition, by Michael Klim appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget And The Art Of Diamonds

Setting a watch with diamonds is by no means an easy task. Especially when you talk about high jewellery, or Haute Joaillerie, watch things become very complicated. It is there where the design phase of these watches is critical. Here, a designer not only determines which type of setting he wants to see, but also if […]

Chronoswiss Sirius Artist: Seriously Artistic

Chronoswiss has always been a brand that was able to give a distinct cachet to its watches. Its elaborate styling takes you into a world where it isn’t quite difficult to imagine yourself as a master wondering through your romantic, stylish castle, or see yourself behind the wheel of an Jaguar E-type, taking on the […]