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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).

Introducing – Drawing with Gemtones, the New Czapek Promenade Diamond Drops Monochrome
Czapek Promenade Diamond Drops Czapek May 13, 2025

Introducing – Drawing with Gemtones, the New Czapek Promenade Diamond Drops

Czapek embraces the trend for more compact, unisex watch sizes and has clearly understood that the days when diamonds and gemstones were considered exclusively feminine adornments are well behind us. Released in 2024, Czapek’s Promenade collection is, in CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel’s words, “a canvas for creative expression” with beautiful dials that riff on the […]

Grand Seiko Snowflake Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko May 12, 2025

Grand Seiko Snowflake Review

  The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is not just a watch that helped define Grand Seiko as a luxury brand to be reckoned with in the 21st Century: it is also at the vanguard of an industry-wide movement toward making dials more beautiful, enticing, and unique - not only with the bold use of color, but with textures that play with the concept of 3D space and the interplay of light and shadow. Nearly every Grand Seiko model of note can claim a dial (and often a nickname) with a distinctly eye-catching motif, usually inspired by the breathtaking natural wonders of the company’s native Japan. Other luxury watch brands have noticed and followed suit - from luxury leaders like Rolex,  Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, to attainable brands like little-brother Seiko and its main competitor, Citizen. The “Snowflake,” Grand Seiko’s first and still most famous textured dial, is arguably the OG of this trend; here is the story of how it came to be and where it stands today. As success stories for new watch brands go, it’s hard to find a better case study in the past decade than Grand Seiko. The Japanese high-luxury watchmaker has, in its relatively short stint in the international market, elevated itself in the eyes of many collectors to the upper echelon of watchmaking prestige and collectibility, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. This plaudit, of course, comes with a caveat: Grand Seiko is not ...

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No May 10, 2025

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1

In a surprising turn of events, the Breguet Sympathique no. 1 has been acquired by its primary creator, Francois-Paul Journe, for the princely sum of CHF5.51 million including fees (equivalent to US$6.61 million). Notably, Sympathique no. 1 sold for almost as much as the Sympathique made for the Duc d’Orléans. Completed in 1991 for the Art of Breguet thematic auction, the clock was completed in 1991 by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a complications workshop founded by Mr Journe, who also recruited Denis Flageollet and clockmaker Dominic Mouret. And now it will soon become one of the key exhibits in the upcoming F.P. Journe Museum, which will be located near its manufacture in downtown Geneva. Determined bidding The impressive result for the clock exceeded most expectations, including mine. I had expected a result in the region of CHF2.5 million. And in a bit of intrigue before the auction, F.P. Journe sent out an announcement to its clients before the auction stating that it would not repair or service Sympathique no. 1; the buyer of the clock would have to go to Breguet. Getting to the hammer price was not difficult, illustrating the strength of the F.P. Journe name today. While there were a handful of bidders under the million-franc mark, it was eventually down to a gentleman in the room and Mr Journe himself. Past the CHF2 million mark it then turned into a contest between a phone bidder represented by Alex Ghotbi and Mr Journe. Bidding proceeded at a stea...

The New Tissot PRC 100 Is a Solar Sensation (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer May 10, 2025

The New Tissot PRC 100 Is a Solar Sensation (Hands-On)

While the PRC 100 Solar proved tough enough for Central Australia, would it be able to withstand the daily activities of an upper-middle class watch nerd? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, classic design Reliable and robust Wears slim and close to the wrist What We Don’t: The visible solar cells might put some people off Blank caseback — a blessing and a curse Can they add a microadjustment? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a reboot — whether it’s Michael Mann’s Heat, Robert Eggers’ Nosferatu, or Todd Howard’s Oblivion, there’s something magnetic about a classic getting the modern treatment. The watch world is no different. Heritage designs have seen a renaissance, with luxury brands like Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Rolex bringing back beloved models. Timepieces like the Chronomaster Revival Shadow, Carrera Glassbox, and Land-Dweller either faithfully revive past icons or remix archival elements into something fresh. Neo-vintage revivals — more recent classics brought back into production — are also gaining traction. While Omega’s Constellation and Piaget’s Polo ’79 represent the high end, this trend has seeped into the more accessible tier of watchmaking. Japanese powerhouses Seiko and Citizen have often led the charge, but one European brand stands tall among them: Tissot. Part of the Swatch Group, Tissot made waves in 2021 with the PRX, a heritage-inspired hit th...

The Seiko SKX173: An Owner’s Retrospective Worn & Wound
Seiko SKX173 May 9, 2025

The Seiko SKX173: An Owner’s Retrospective

It was December of 2011 when I picked up the Seiko SKX173 – the watch that got me into watches. I’d say it was all downhill from there, but I think I’ve managed to contain myself relatively well when it comes to watch enthusiasm – I’m more practical when it comes to collecting (don’t even consider myself a collector) since I really like to wear what I have. I do tend to lean towards the sentimental side, hence the Seiko SKX173 on my wrist today that’s been a part of my horological journey for the better part of the last 14 years. Although a lot has happened between then and now, I remember choosing the Seiko after hitting the watch forums and getting a better idea of what kind of watch I wanted. I wanted something that was rugged, durable, cool looking, and mechanical. At the time, I only had limited experience with some Timex quartz watches, and the SKX felt like a huge bump up. I paid roughly $250 for the SKX on Amazon and in a few days, the watch arrived.  It came on a rubber strap, which immediately got me searching around for other options. I ended up buying a WJean Super Oyster bracelet (which looking at it now is more jangly than it is super), a single pass leather nato (didn’t know that leather on a diver was a faux pas), and a chunky military-style nato from CountyComm. For me, that was all I needed. A solid watch, a few strap options, and that’s all. Man, how times were simpler. The Seiko SKX was a springboard for me, launching me into the worl...

Artem Expands Its Flagship Loop-Less HydroFlex Strap Range With A More Pronounced Taper Fratello
Zenith May 9, 2025

Artem Expands Its Flagship Loop-Less HydroFlex Strap Range With A More Pronounced Taper

Covering watches offers me an excellent opportunity to witness the evolution of products. While turnaround times for major watch upgrades can be years or decades, accessories such as straps evolve before your eyes. It feels like only yesterday that Artem achieved its zenith with the Loop-Less Sailcloth strap. But taking that design and producing it […] Visit Artem Expands Its Flagship Loop-Less HydroFlex Strap Range With A More Pronounced Taper to read the full article.

Introducing the Swatch SCUBAQUA Collection, a Series of Colorful Divers, Just in Time for Summer Worn & Wound
Swatch May 9, 2025

Introducing the Swatch SCUBAQUA Collection, a Series of Colorful Divers, Just in Time for Summer

If there’s one drum I’m constantly banging in the watch enthusiast discourse, it’s that the Swatch MoonSwatch is probably among the least interesting watches made by the brand. I know, I know. They are a phenomenon. They have probably introduced untold numbers of new collectors to our hobby. And they are meant to be fun and I should just chill out. This is all incredibly valid. But as a somewhat older, somewhat more grizzled watch collector who fondly remembers a pre-MoonSwatch era, I’m very much of the opinion that Swatch remains on the vanguard of creativity, you just have to walk past that MoonSwatch display briefcase in the boutique.  This week saw the release of what I think is a great example of a watch that is more impressive in just about every way than a run of the mill MoonSwatch. The new SCUBAQUA Collection even uses the same Bioceramic material found in the MoonSwatch, but in a way that, to my eye, is more uniquely Swatch. Based on the classic Swatch Scuba collection, the new SCUBAQUA watches are a thoughtful update using new materials with enhanced specs and a more contemporary feel.  The new SCUBAQUA watches are all about color and transparency, achieving what the brand calls the “jelly effect,” a principle common to many similarly transparent and colorful Swatches over the years. Each watch combines Bioceramic in the solid color sections of the case with castor oil derived biosourced materials for the transparent components. The dials in each v...

Hands-On With The Lovely Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Steel Rose Fratello
Angelus May 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Lovely Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Steel Rose

When I was asked to compile my list of favorite Watches and Wonders 2025 releases, the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Steel Rose was the first that sprang to mind. So, when I got the opportunity to spend some decent time with it, I jumped on it. I spent a couple of days with this beauty on […] Visit Hands-On With The Lovely Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Steel Rose to read the full article.

Collective Horology’s Open House LA Event Is Back For 2025 Fratello
May 8, 2025

Collective Horology’s Open House LA Event Is Back For 2025

If you’re in Los Angeles or just looking for an excuse to be, make sure Saturday, June 7th, is on your radar. That’s when Collective Horology’s Open House returns for its second year. If you’ve got even a passing interest in independent watchmaking, this is the kind of event you’ll want to check out, especially […] Visit Collective Horology’s Open House LA Event Is Back For 2025 to read the full article.

Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces May 7, 2025

Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement

Brew’s recent history has been marked by two distinct types of watch releases. There are watches that incorporate bold design choices in established platforms, like Metric Star from last year, or our own Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint limited edition. These releases take a distinct point of view on something that is familiar to Brew fans and watch enthusiasts more generally, and keep moving the ball forward on the brand’s aesthetic. Then there are more substantial releases that feel like the brand is reaching for greater heights, toying with an incrementally higher end product. The titanium Metric Chronograph, for instance, seemed like clear upping of the ante in terms of what the Brew catalog might look like across price points, materials, and so on, as did the first mechanical Metric when it was released almost two years ago. If you’ve spent any time at all talking to Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer, you know that he has no shortage of ideas for the brand, so there’s a prevailing sense that a watch that completely changes how we think about Brew could come at any time. The new Metric Manual Wind might be the best example of that to date.  It makes sense, in a lot of ways, that a watch like this would come now. This year marks Brew’s tenth anniversary, and the last decade (especially the last five years or so) have seen the brand grow at a clip rarely seen in the microbrand space. The Metric has proven to be a particularly durable platform for design innovations a...

Seiko’s Premier Diver-GMT Gets an Update with the Prospex SPB519 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko s Premier Diver-GMT Gets May 6, 2025

Seiko’s Premier Diver-GMT Gets an Update with the Prospex SPB519 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT

A new diver release from Seiko isn’t exactly going to set the world on fire, but it will surely please the legions of fans of the brand and its Prospex line. With a crisp white and blue colorway and nifty bracelet that can be microadjusted as wrist size changes throughout the day, the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT looks to be a worthy-if subdued-addition to the ever-growing catalog of Seiko dive watches. Pulling from a long tradition of purpose-built Seiko dive watches, the new SPB519 reference features a stainless steel case measuring in at 42mm in diameter, 48.6mm lug-to-lug, and 13.3mm thick, giving it a heftier frame than 2023’s closely-related Heritage Diver’s GMT (SPB381). A unidirectional bezel, and screw-down caseback and crown at 4 o’clock further push the watch into “serious” diver waters, supported by the 300-meter water resistance rating. Stylistically, the SPB519 takes on a sort of jaunty sailor persona, with a navy blue ceramic bezel and a silvery white dial. The applied indexes and hands are coated in LumiBrite, as are numerals on the bezel, and an anti-reflective coating protects the inner surface of the sapphire crystal.  Inside, the Caliber 6R54 automatic hand-winding GMT movement adds some spice to the otherwise by-the-numbers functionality of the watch, and boasts a 72-hour power reserve and “caller-style” independent 24-hour hand. The most interesting feature of the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, however, lies with the bracelet, which ...

Introducing the Squale Corallo NOS 2008, Featuring a New Old Stock Case from the Archives Worn & Wound
Squale May 6, 2025

Introducing the Squale Corallo NOS 2008, Featuring a New Old Stock Case from the Archives

These days, it seems like every watchmaker is getting back to their roots and releasing redesigns or homages to past hits. I won’t speculate on what this means for the world psyche at the moment, but it has certainly produced a few discussion worthy pieces, whether controversial, widely popular, and everywhere in between. Swiss dive watch specialist Squale is capitalizing on the nostalgia boom with the Corallo NOS 2008. While the Corallo isn’t a rehash of a specific model for the brand-originally founded in 1959 as a case maker for other brands and known for their extreme divers and tool watches-it is a callback to designs of that decade, both from Squale and the watch world as a whole, and revives their “Corallo” case style from the decade, as they rediscovered 300 new old stock (or NOS) examples of the case in their archives three years ago. The name means “coral” in Italian, supposedly chosen for the eight rounded humps that form the bezel of the watch, giving it a shape reminiscent of the aquatic life form. I can’t see the resemblance, but I do like the silhouette that the humps give the watch, imbuing it with a symmetry that feels aggressively tactical, and makes sense for extreme diving applications; a gloved hand underwater will have no problem gripping the bezel with the namesake protrusions. The Corallo measures in at 36.8mm in diameter, 10.5mm in thickness, and 44mm lug-to-lug, and the 316L stainless steel case itself is a blend of the original ...

Casio Duro Teddy Baldassarre
Casio May 6, 2025

Casio Duro

It’s hard to believe that the Casio Duro has only been around for fourteen years now. It’s been at the top of affordable dive watch lists so consistently that you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s been around since the 1990s, but indeed, 2011 was the year this S-tier value proposition hit the market. The original Casio Duro MDV-106 was a mainstream success, selling over 600,000 units in its first decade. And it’s not difficult to understand why the Duro was such a crowd pleaser: a 200-meter water-resistant diver with classically appealing sporty aesthetics and genuinely nice finishing for $50 at launch (it retails for a still downright cheap $70 these days). Even for a brand known for its affordable classics, Casio had a genuine hit on its hands and over the years added colorways like blue and gilt, along with several bezel variants. And, of course, being the watch of choice for Bill Gates certainly didn’t hurt in cementing the Duro’s reputation. Here, I will get into why the Casio Duro is one of the best affordable offerings of the last quarter of a decade. And since I know you’re thinking it, I’ll begin by addressing the smaller 38mm model and why I don’t categorize it as a “True Casio Duro.” Casio Duro Case and Wearability: Let’s start with the admission of the fact that the 44mm case size is the Casio Duro’s biggest flaw. Yes, it’s a pretty big diver measuring 44.2mm wide and 12.1mm thick with a lug-to-lug height of 48.5mm. To address the no...

Reintegration: Unexpected Integrated Bracelet Releases from Meistersinger and Chronoswiss Worn & Wound
Breguet Classique Souscription single-handed watches May 5, 2025

Reintegration: Unexpected Integrated Bracelet Releases from Meistersinger and Chronoswiss

If you had told me a few years ago that we’d still be seeing integrated bracelet watch designs in 2025, I probably would not have believed you. But what felt like many a passing fad that would take a year or two to cycle through has not only stuck around, but has become a bit of a necessity for brands seeking to expand their customer base. As such, at Watches & Wonders 2025 integrated bracelets were still prevalent, even getting a spotlight thanks to the Rolex Land Dweller. Well, I’m not here to cover that well-trodden territory again. Rather, I wanted to look at two integrated launches that have gone a little under the radar, both of which lean towards the quirky side of things: the Meistersinger Kaenos and the Chronoswiss Pulse One. The Meistersinger Kaenos Meistersinger is a curious brand. They are at once an oddball, focusing almost exclusively on single-handed watches, which is a very strange thing to do, and yet somewhat conservative, with designs that lean towards the traditional. Admittedly, as is evidenced by the recently released Breguet Classique Souscription, single-handed watches are rooted in 18th century design, but I digress. Well, the Kaenos mixes things up for the brand, introducing a far sportier and more aggressive style into their line. Measuring 40mm in diameter and 11.2mm in height, at a glance, the design of the Kaenos’ case and bracelet is pretty typical of integrated bracelet designs. A sort of barrel-shaped case with a circular dial opening...

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel Bezel Collection Fratello
Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel May 5, 2025

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel Bezel Collection

Doxa is back again with a new release! This time, it’s a variant of the popular and affordable Sub 200. The 42mm dive watch was released in 2019 at Baselworld, and this is the first major update. While in Geneva for Watches and Wonders and the adjacent events, we visited Doxa on our first night. […] Visit Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel Bezel Collection to read the full article.

Seiko Baby Alpinist Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko May 2, 2025

Seiko Baby Alpinist Review

Before I get into my owner's review of the Seiko Baby Alpinist, I want to talk about field watches as a category. What makes a field watch? Is an explorers' watch the same as a field watch? Is a mountaineering watch? I wouldn’t necessarily call this, or rather these, age-old questions. Instead they illustrate an intellectual conundrum I’ve personally faced, being a fan of a certain format of watches. Many who know me will also be sure to know I have a certain proclivity toward Rolex watches. I once wrote some of a definite treatise on the Rolex Explorer Ref. 14270 - the now neo-vintage version of the watch that was born right at the start of the 1990s and which has since served as the template for all Explorers to come. Its 36mm size, legible dial, and overall no-nonsense field-watch format have made it one of the best watch designs of all time. But it’s also not really a field watch, is it? It was born as a marketing exercise in the wake of Sir Edmund Hilary’s summiting of Everest alongside Tenzig Norgay. It’s an explorers watch, one with alpine roots. The Seiko Baby Alpinist SPB155 Speaking of alpine, we cannot mention the word without invoking one of the most well-known attainable icons of the 1990s and 2000s: The Seiko Alpinist. But let’s go back even further, to the late 1950s and early ‘60s, when Seiko launched the small, 35mm Laurel Alpinist – a design that was revived by the brand in 2021. Fast-forward to 1995, when Seiko released a familiar forma...

Hands-On: the Tissot PRX 25mm Worn & Wound
Tissot PRX 25mm If Hollywood May 2, 2025

Hands-On: the Tissot PRX 25mm

If Hollywood stars and trend forecasters are correct about the state of the watch world, it’s that bigger isn’t better anymore. Many brands are finding their sizing guidelines are in a state of flux the past few years, with many enthusiasts opting for classical sizing and subverting notions of gendered expectations. A push for inclusion within the collector community seems to have also correlated with the expansion of hallmark models into different sizing categories. The move serves to bring in new consumers and allows for a greater range of choice amongst all enthusiasts. The PRX has been Tissot’s tour de force in recent years. The reissue of an original 1970s design by the brand in 2021 sparked a bit of a revolution with enthusiasts – many of whom flocked to the watch for the competitive pricing and quality. The integrated steel bracelet and tonneau-style case shape evokes a groovy callback to the designs of the seventies when quartz movements were truly high-end and sports watches were king.  It makes sense, given the popularity of the Tissot PRX since its initial reissue, why it’s now offered in 59 different variations on the brand’s website today. As many of us know, there can be popular mainstream watches whose constant re-(and re and re-)releases begin to hit a nerve with the collector community after a while. Fortunately, it seems the PRX is one that hasn’t overstayed its welcome – and for good reason. This new 25mm reference expands the market in ...

In-Depth: Hidden Innovation in the Urwerk UR-150 “Scorpion” SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-150 “Scorpion” Urwerk May 2, 2025

In-Depth: Hidden Innovation in the Urwerk UR-150 “Scorpion”

Urwerk is universally known for its unique approach to time-telling, usually marrying the classic concept of wandering hours with avant-garde styling and reinvented mechanics. The brand’s signature brand of watchmaking is exemplified by the UR-150 “Scorpion”, which demonstrates the brand’s ability to reinvent the wheel in displaying the time. The UR-150 is a time-only watch, showing just the hours and minutes, but with a technical execution that is sophisticated and elaborate. Nicknamed “Scorpion” due to its crisp retrograde hour hand that brings to mind the desert creature’s swift sting, the UR-150 features a central carousel that creeps slowly over the course of one hour, only for the hour hand to snap back and reset with a lively action at the top of each hour. The concept of satellite and retrograde hours is not new to Urwerk – in fact the idea dates back to the Opus V – but in the UR-150 the mechanics underlying the time display have been refined, upgraded, and elaborated upon. Dissecting the time display module of the UR-150 is a fascinating process that speaks to the talent of the watchmakers and constructors at Urwerk who conceived these radical time displays. The mechanics are inventive, especially in the interconnected nature of the various sub-assemblies ranging from the retrograde to the satellite discs. The construction also incorporates finer engineering details like main shaft that supports two concentric but independent axes of the carrier...

Introducing the Kudoke 5, with a 24-Hour Display and a Slimmer Case Worn & Wound
May 1, 2025

Introducing the Kudoke 5, with a 24-Hour Display and a Slimmer Case

In 2019, the last year of Baselworld, I remember roaming the hall of AHCI and visiting Stefan and Ev Kudoke to see their new Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 models. The Kudoke 2 was an instant winner for me with the small hand engraved 24-hour day/night disc. Later that year, the Kudoke 2 won the “Petite Aiguille” GPHG award for the best watch under CHF 10,000. This put Kudoke as a brand on every collector’s radar.  My first impression of the Kudoke 5 is that it is a natural progression or a logical conclusion to the K2 model with the 24-hour day/night disc as the dial. While the small disc in the K2 works as a nice indicator, the full blown 24-hour dial with a large day/night sky is more poetic and truly feels like it naturally belongs as a dial.  The other noticeable thing about the K5 is that it is a brand-new case that is much slimmer than the previous models. It is officially listed at 7mm without the domed crystal (it’s 38mm in diameter and 47mm from lug to lug). Even though the domed crystal on the watch presented in Geneva last month was a prototype, it did not appear to add any height to the watch. This is the slimmest Kudoke watch I have seen.  According to Stefan, engraving the day/night disc is a complex process involving relief engraving. The stars, moon, and triangle remain in place during engraving and the rest of the elements must be lowered. The whole engraving process takes several days. The biggest challenge he faces is not denting the disc during this ...

Hands-On: Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver BN1024-01E Fratello
Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver May 1, 2025

Hands-On: Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver BN1024-01E

Citizen has updated one of its most popular Promaster Eco-Drive diver models. The BN0150-10E becomes BN1024-01E and has been updated in almost all areas-it’s bigger, goes deeper, is stronger, lasts longer, and is now suitable for professional use. Let’s dive into the details! For over 35 years, Promaster has stood for functionality and professional use. […] Visit Hands-On: Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Professional Diver BN1024-01E to read the full article.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Apr 30, 2025

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Review

There’s not much left to say about the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 that hasn’t already been said. It’s a watch that feels like it’s always been there, even though it was only released by Tissot in 2021, at exactly the right moment in history. With integrated-bracelet designs on the upswing, Tissot brought one to market that was fun, well designed, and well priced. It also happened to be based on an original ‘70s Seastar design from the brand. It was an instant hit, and the brand was quick to capitalize on its initial success by fleshing out a full collection, including different sizes, materials, and even movement options, culminating in the PRX Powermatic 80.  The PRX Powermatic 80 was introduced in both 35mm and 40mm variations, and quickly saw a variety of dial, case, and strap options that brought a diverse personality to the collection as a whole. In 2025, it feels like a fully mature staple of Tissot’s offerings, and the integrated-bracelet trend is showing no real signs of slowing down (more thoughts on that later), which should grant the watch a bright future. That said, I (and many others) will be curious to see how the PRX ends up evolving, and whether or not it will have real staying power for generations to come. Either way, for what it is right now, it’s a tough watch to beat when it comes to value and personality.  It's that combination that is the real draw of the PRX, and today, in 2025, it’s only strengthened. The PRX Powermatic 80 remains w...

The 15 Best Chinese Watch Brands: A Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 30, 2025

The 15 Best Chinese Watch Brands: A Complete Guide

At this point it’s a cliché to even mention how outdated and prehistoric a universally negative or condescending view of “Made in China” is in the world of watchmaking. Some of the most interesting new watch brands, and a consistently growing roster of some of the most talented and resourceful living watchmakers, are establishing reputations matching, or indeed exceeding, those out of Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. In this article I have assembled just 15 of these names, some of which have been around for decades and some of which are just coming on the scene. For your reading ease, I’ve broken these down into three categories: the established brands; the watchmakers; and the upstarts. Let’s start with the Chinese watch brand most of you already know… The Established Brands Seagull Tianjin Seagull Watch Group, aka Seagull, recently celebrated its 70th anniversary, and it’s not hard to see why this giant is the most well known and prolific Chinese mechanical-watch producer. The brand made China’s first Air Force Chronograph, which has been reissued as the iconic Seagull 1963 chronograph, a watch that still represents tremendous value at around $300. But it’s not just all affordable stuff these days. Last year, I wrote about the Seagull Split-Second Chronograph, calling it one of the best values in watchmaking at $3,200. Beyond the basic chronograph and this rattrapante, Seagull has added tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters to its repe...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 27000M Complicated Desk Apr 30, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock

Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...

Every Seamaster Worn by James Bond in the Omega Era, From "Goldeneye" Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Apr 29, 2025

Every Seamaster Worn by James Bond in the Omega Era, From "Goldeneye"

Omega became the official watch of the world’s most famous cinematic superspy, James Bond, in 1995, with star Pierce Brosnan sporting a Seamaster Professional watch in the first of his four films as Agent 007. Today - 30 years, nine movies, and two lead actors later - the Omega Seamaster retains its strong association with Bond’s signature style along with his penchant for exotic adventure. Here is a chronological rundown, movie by movie, of every Omega Seamaster model that James Bond has worn in his silver screen exploits during the last three decades.  Goldeneye, 1995 (Pierce Brosnan): Seamaster Professional 300M Ref. 2541.80 When Irish actor Pierce Brosnan came aboard for Goldeneye, the first new Bond film in six years, Oscar-winning costume designer Lindy Hemming came with him. It was Hemming, according to Omega, who suggested that an Omega Seamaster would be the perfect watch for Bond, despite the character’s established affinity for Rolex, which came from Ian Fleming’s original novels. “I was convinced that Commander Bond, a naval man, a diver, and a discreet gentleman of the world, would wear this watch,” Hemming said in an interview. At the time, the watch she chose was one with a quartz movement, the Seamaster Professional 300M Ref. 2451.80. In the movie, the 300-meter water resistant diver with blue dial is equipped with a built-in laser beam in the bezel, which Bond uses for a desperate escape from an exploding train car, and a remote detonator...

Nivada-Grenchen Updates the F77 with a Redesigned Case Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Apr 28, 2025

Nivada-Grenchen Updates the F77 with a Redesigned Case

We have officially reached that point in the integrated bracelet sports watch trend where the late entrants are getting their second generation, “improved” models to market. Case in point, Nivada-Grenchen and their F77. The F77 launched in March of 2023, a time period that most would agree saw the hype around this genre of watch begin to cool in a significant way. That doesn’t take anything away from the F77 as a watch, of course. I’m rather fond of the size and geometry of this one, and it’s a genuine part of Nivada’s heritage. But in terms of its timing, it did debut at “peak” integrated bracelet sports watch mania. And so here we are, two years later, and Nivada has launched a Mark II version of the F77. We’re now at a point, I think, where integrated bracelet sports watches are just part of the landscape, and a required offering for any brand wishing to cast even a somewhat wide net. It makes sense, then, that Nivada would work to improve theirs.  From the looks of it, they’ve made some fairly substantial changes to the case that could have a real impact on how the F77 wears, and it certainly has an impact on the overall aesthetic of the watch. The case measures 12.2mm thick, which is not appreciably different from the previous version, but the lugs have been completely redesigned. The first F77 had lugs that were quite flat and, for an integrated bracelet sports watch, fairly long. The new F77 Mark II has lugs that are much more dramatically curve...

The Timex Triprix: Showing Appreciation for the Forgotten “Poor Man’s Giugiaro” Worn & Wound
Seiko Giugiaro Apr 28, 2025

The Timex Triprix: Showing Appreciation for the Forgotten “Poor Man’s Giugiaro”

If you’ve read any of my work, you’ll know I’ve always had a fascination for 1980s and 90s watch design. It’s a period often overlooked within the collecting community, and through my writing and research, I hope to bring some much-needed attention to it. A few months ago, I wrote an article about the Timex Skiathlom that seemed to interest many of our readers. Another fun piece Timex produced during this same era was the Triprix. Though not as flashy as the Skiathlom, several notable aspects of its design set it apart from your typical digital watch. It’s fun, it’s mighty functional, and it’s as close to owning a Seiko Giugiaro for under $100 as you can get––what’s there not to love? The Triprix’s History and Design According to information gathered through various forums, advertisements, and websites, the Triprix was released in the late 1980s and continued production throughout the early 1990s. The model came out during a period where Timex set their eyes on producing timepieces aimed at sporting and leisure activities like skiing, surfing, fishing, sailing, and running. The central idea was for these timepieces to feature an array of functions that would assist the owner in their leisurely endeavors. According to a 1990 catalog, all variants of the Triprix sold for $40, the equivalent of roughly $100 by today’s standards.  Moving to its design overall, the most noticeable aspect is its slanted digital display. Reminiscent of Seiko’s A828 Digi...

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Apr 28, 2025

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Review

The pilot watch genre is a funny thing. These watches are marketed and sold for their connection to history and/or their usefulness within the field of aviation. This history has set a visual identity that defines the genre to this day, with complications like flyback timers and slide rules often featuring heavily. Of course, very few of the owners put these features to use, with fewer still serving as actual pilots. Thus, the pilot watch genre really serves as more of a vibe than any kind of practical watermark. There are exceptions to this, however, and ironically enough, some of the most practical everyday tool watches find themselves with the “pilot watch” designation, and there is perhaps no better example of this than the IWC Mark XX. The name of the game with any great tool watch is clarity. Ideally, there’s nothing superfluous to cloud the core goals of the tool, with a premium placed on simple legibility. One of the strongest templates based on this ethos is the IWC Mark XI from the late ‘40s. It wasn’t the first IWC Mk watch, but it is the one responsible for casting a die that persists to this day in the form of the Mk XX. There are important distinctions, which I’ll get to, but the underpinnings of the modern Mk XX collection are built on the same general formula that made the Mk XI great: it’s easy to use, easy to understand, easy to wear, and is exactly as stout as it needs to be. IWC enjoys a highly developed design language for its range of pi...

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models Fratello
Breguet Models Apr 25, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models

This year is full of watch brands celebrating all kinds of anniversaries, but if there’s one with a milestone anniversary, it is Breguet. The house celebrates its 250th anniversary this year. Yesterday, the festivities began with the release of the new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. It’s a brilliant first step in a new direction under […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models to read the full article.