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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Vacheron Constantin Models Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Models Another Friday another Mar 21, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Vacheron Constantin Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll start looking ahead to Watches and Wonders. With the world’s biggest watch fair approaching, it’s time to highlight brands celebrating different anniversaries. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is celebrating its 270th anniversary in 2025. As that long history is too extensive to sum up with a […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Vacheron Constantin Models to read the full article.

Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original Mar 20, 2025

Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence

German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original has been on a streak of masterful moon-phase creations in recent years, releasing some absolutely exquisite dial colors in its PanoMaticLunar model (including the green-dial model I review here) and unveiling the first PanoLunarInverse model toward the end of 2024. Today, the brand continues shooting for the moon, in a visual and horological sense, with the launch of two new versions of its Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase family boasting two eye-catching - and historically inspired - new dial colors. Both of the watches’ dials - one in frosted silver, the other in frosted copper, achieved in a galvanic process - are created in homage to the rich mineral deposits once mined in the Ore Mountains, near the state of Saxony and the watchmaking town of Glashütte. Their finely grained surfaces, meant to evoke the thin layers of ice on the mountain rock, play host to the familiar and elegant details of the Senator Excellence family - including hand-applied, blued Roman numeral markers in gold and blued, polished poire hands complemented by a central seconds hand with the brand’s “double G” symbol as counterweight. The watches’ signature functions occupy carefully chosen spots on the dial without disrupting its overall clean, harmonious look. The large “Panorama” date display settles snugly in a double window at 4 o’clock, while the moon-phase elegantly balances it in the opposite corner above, its ...

Ressence Complicates Things with the Type 7 GMT SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet celebrating 250 Mar 20, 2025

Ressence Complicates Things with the Type 7 GMT

We’ve said it before, but 2025 is a big year for anniversaries in the watch business, with brands like Breguet and Audemars Piguet celebrating 250 and 150 years, respectively. But it’s not just the big brands that have something to celebrate; this year also marks the 15th anniversary of Ressence, which has just launched its first proper complication, the Type 7 GMT.  At launch, the Type 7 is available in Night Blue or Aquamarine, the latter being an 80-piece anniversary edition. It’s also the first Ressence to come equipped with a bracelet, enhancing its versatility. Initial thoughts Time flies when you’re having fun, which must be why I was shocked to realise Ressence is turning 15 years old this year. The Type 7 keeps the good times going with several of my favourite Ressence features, like the oil-filled dial chamber and the compression lock system for the keyless works, creating what is arguably the brand’s most wearable and versatile watch to-date. The wearability starts with the new grade 5 titanium case, which is just 41 mm by 14 mm. While not a small watch, it’s the smallest Ressence to feature the brand’s proprietary locking system for the winding and setting mechanism, which to-date has only been available on the much larger 46 mm Type 5 dive watch. This endows the Type 7 with 50 m of water resistance, which means you can take the watch pretty much anywhere. This versatility is enhanced by the matching grade 5 titanium bracelet; a first for the bra...

Seiko’s Advanced Astron Collection Gets Four New References Worn & Wound
Seiko s Advanced Astron Collection Mar 17, 2025

Seiko’s Advanced Astron Collection Gets Four New References

If you like your watches complicated and your timezones varied, chances are you’re already aware of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar line, first launched in 2012. No, the watch doesn’t shout haphazard driving directions at you. Instead, its latest models use GPS technology and a solar-sensitive dial to automatically update the time according to your geographic position up to twice a day. But Seiko wasn’t done there-almost exactly a year on from the introduction of the Caliber 5X83, the first pairing of Dual-Time tech with a chronograph function, Seiko has unleashed four new Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs. Each of the four new watches-references SSH175, SSH177, SSH179 and limited-edition SSH180-features a titanium bezel with a sapphire crystal insert, adding a touch of practicality and elegance to the already robust profile of the Astron. An imposing 44mm mirror-polished titanium case houses the Caliber 5X83 movement, which promises a litany of advanced features, most prominent of which is the aforementioned GPS-controlled time and time zone adjustment. A world time function, perpetual calendar correct to the year 2100, automatic DST adjustment, AM/PM and signal reception indications, accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, and more round out the slate of functions. Of course, the titular chronographs also loom large on the dial, with a 1/20th second counter at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour counter with hours and minutes at 6 o’clock during chronograph operation...

Will Breitling’s Gallet Acquisition Reshuffle The List Of The Top 10 Watch Brands? Fratello
Breitling s Gallet Acquisition Reshuffle Mar 17, 2025

Will Breitling’s Gallet Acquisition Reshuffle The List Of The Top 10 Watch Brands?

About five years ago, when another vintage Gallet chronograph watch landed in my collection, I told my wife what I had been daydreaming of for quite a while: “I will buy the Gallet brand someday!” Well, it seems that I was not the only one. Immediately after I learned about Breitling’s plans to acquire Gallet […] Visit Will Breitling’s Gallet Acquisition Reshuffle The List Of The Top 10 Watch Brands? to read the full article.

Seiko Refines the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Refines Mar 17, 2025

Seiko Refines the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph

One of the flagship high-tech analogue watches in Seiko’s catalogue, the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph has been reworked to give it visual elements more typically associated with Seiko’s higher-end mechanical watches. Amongst other things, the new Astron GPS chronograph features a sapphire-covered bezel, diamond-milled chapter rings, and facetted case details. It still retains the multi-function 5X83 movement that features GPS time- and time zone setting, perpetual calendar, and a six month power reserve on a full charge. Initial thoughts Someone recently asked me to recommend a useful watch for a person who has no interest in mechanical timepieces, with the condition that the watch has to be analogue and not look like a gadget. The Astron GPS chronograph fits the bill. The model’s newest iterations, four in all, have the styling details of a mechanical watch while having a multitude of high-tech features. One of its most useful features is the GPS time setting, which means the watch syncs with a GPS satellite and then displays the local time zone when travelling. The black and blue dial versions are especially restrained and well suited as a low-key everyday watch, though still a little large at over 44 mm in diameter. Useful watchmaking When sunlight is detected, the Astron GPS chronograph syncs with a GPS satellite automatically up to twice a day, while manual syncing can be done via a pusher in the case. Sunlight also powers the watch – under the dial ...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Commercial Moon Landing, “Jurassic” Scientific breakthrough, and Star Dials Worn & Wound
Mar 15, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Commercial Moon Landing, “Jurassic” Scientific breakthrough, and Star Dials

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. First Commercial Moon Landing On Tuesday, March 2nd, Firefly Aerospace successfully landed their “Blue Ghost” lander on the surface of the moon, making it the first private company to do so.  Over the next two weeks, Blue Ghost will conduct a number of experiments, 10 of which are for NASA, in an effort to gather data that will be used for the Artemis Project. While still in the early stages, Project Artermis looks to return humans back to the moon, something that hasn’t been done in over 50 years. Millions of Dollars Worth of Suitcases   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Peak Design (@peakdesign) Whether you’re into photography or just know someone who is, you’ve likely heard of Peak Design before.  While they made their name creating high quality camera bags and accessories, Peak Design has been branching out into various adjacent segments for some time now. In their most recent project, Peak Design set out to create their very own suitcase, which they’ve named the “Roller Pro”. Best described as a hybrid between the standard soft and hard shell options on the market, the Roller Pro features two unique opening methods, a carbon fiber ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models Another Friday Mar 14, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models

Another Friday, another list! Multiple people on the Fratello team own or have owned a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. One of them is Daan, who has a beautiful Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds. He usually wears it on a leather and canvas Casa Fagliano strap. Last week, though, he swapped it for an Arroway mesh bracelet, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models to read the full article.

Albishorn’s Thundergraph Revives the “California” Dial SJX Watches
Mar 14, 2025

Albishorn’s Thundergraph Revives the “California” Dial

Less than one year since its debut, Albishorn is back with its third chronograph. The Thundergraph continues the brand’s theme of “imaginary vintage,” this time taking inspiration from mountaineering, specifically the Swiss expeditions to Everest in 1952. With a focus on legibility, the Thundergraph features an unusual “California ghost” dial in petrol blue. Available in a limited run of 99 pieces that will be produced over a period of three years, the Thundergraph features a new iteration of the brand’s proprietary manually wound chronograph movement, developed by founder Sébastien Chaulmontet. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Albishorn since its launch, and have become more impressed with each new release. The Thundergraph is my favourite to-date, retaining the best elements of its stablemates while introducing an appealingly bold take on the California dial. The stainless steel case of the Thundergraph largely mirrors that of the earlier Type 10 and Maxigraph, and retains the appealing asymmetric form and red anodised aluminium chronograph monopusher. The case is actually just 39 mm at the case band, but wears larger due to its 42.7 mm bezel. Where the Thundergraph differs most from its siblings is its dial, which offers a sunburst finish in petroleum blue, which pairs perfectly with the rose gold-plated hands and dial markers. The so-called “California ghost” dial features Roman numerals on the top half of the dial, but rather than Arabic numer...

Obituary: Jean-Pierre Hagmann, Master Case Maker SJX Watches
Casio n he said “I’m Mar 14, 2025

Obituary: Jean-Pierre Hagmann, Master Case Maker

Jean-Pierre Hagmann passed away suddenly and unexpectedly on the night of March 7, 2025 at the age of 84. With his passing, the watchmaking has lost the most important case maker of the last 50 years. He was a friend whom I first met some 35 years ago. Born in Geneva in 1940 to a mechanic, Jean-Pierre was a living legend whose talent was evident from a young age. Jean-Pierre was an incredibly versatile and gifted precision machinist and craftsman. No mechanical problem was too difficult for him to tackle. “If you have a complex mechanical problem, you have to break it down into many small steps,” he once told me. On another occasion, he said, “I’m lazy by nature, so I always look for the simplest and quickest technical solution, which is often the perfect one.” After training as a jeweller at Geneva’s School of Fine Arts in 1956, Jean-Pierre didn’t want to go straight into the profession. His youthful curiosity and fervor led him to seek variety and adventure. Initially, he applied to Holiday on Ice, the iceskating theatre company, as a professional figure skater and taking the role of a clown. When that didn’t work out, he spent two years repairing coffee machines in the bistros of Geneva. Later, he worked as a mechanic in a racing motorbike workshop. Jean-Pierre’s boss recognised his talent and introduced him to one of the most famous racing drivers of the time, Etienne de la Mar. With his technical finesse Jean-Pierre helped  the Frenchman win the Eur...

Hamilton Introduces the American Classic Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces Mar 13, 2025

Hamilton Introduces the American Classic Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition

I have to start this one off with an admission: I am not a gamer. I really, really enjoy the Grand Theft Auto franchise and have fond memories of playing them deep into the wee hours of the morning with college friends in my younger, slightly less responsible days, but as a capital A “adult” I’ve never given all that much attention to the gaming world. Movies have always been my thing when it comes to getting lost in a narrative on a giant flatscreen TV. I make the comparison to movies here because it’s been frequently discussed how games have nearly replaced movies for a younger generation when it comes to immersive storytelling. Few things make me feel like an old fuddy-duddy more than talking to twenty year olds who have logged more hours watching Twitch streams than Scorsese movies.  The new watch from Hamilton, a watch brand long associated with the silver screen, is an example of the gradual shift in interest from filmed entertainment to gaming, and represents a pretty big swing for a brand that has carved out a very clear spot in the mindset of most watch enthusiasts. Hamilton conjures thoughts of American watchmaking history, countless appearances in films over the course of many decades, and classically designed value oriented tools (among many other things – their catalog is vast and they make watches in every style imaginable). But one thing they aren’t frequently associated with is the avant-garde, or truly experimental design, their 2001 inspired ...

Hands-On: the Chronofixe Astérix Worn & Wound
Timex Ironmans were character watches Mar 12, 2025

Hands-On: the Chronofixe Astérix

I’ve always had a bit of a thing for character watches. I know they’re divisive, but a character watch - whether it be a ridiculously expensive Spider-Man AP or a cheap quartz Armitron with a basketball-playing Bugs Bunny on the dial - can help create a shockingly profound connection between a watch and its wearer and be (when done well) a fun reminder not to take watches too seriously. I’ve owned a lot of character watches. Many of my earliest and most favorite childhood watches, if they weren’t Timex Ironmans, were character watches, and even today, I still find myself picking up a character watch here and there, though they rarely stick in my collection for very long. Most find their way to their next owners as gifts - a vintage Snoopy tennis watch went to my mother, while the aforementioned Bugs Bunny Armitron now sits on my younger brother’s wrist most days (though, much to my annoyance, he pointedly refuses to put a battery in it). Still, most of the character watches I’ve owned over the years have found their way into the trash or were lost in various moves or purges because, for as delightful a thing as character watches are, most aren’t that good, at least as watches. To generalize wildly, most character watches I’ve owned have felt, at best, transient and, at worst, disposable (admittedly, I’ve never owned an AP Spider-Man watch, so I can’t speak to that experience). Still, my love for the concept remains, and when a watch comes along t...

Hermès Elegantly Facelifts Arceau Complications SJX Watches
Hermes Mar 11, 2025

Hermès Elegantly Facelifts Arceau Complications

Whimsical and graceful in the typical Hermès style, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune and Arceau Le Temps Voyageur are both unusual takes on familiar complications; the two were incidentally conceived with the aid of Chronode, a complications specialist. Hermès has reworked the palette for both models, most notably with a two-tone case for the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune. This returns as a set of three watches, each featuring a dial made of a specific type of meteorite, namely Blue Grey Moon, Vesta, and Erg Chech. All three are housed in a 43 mm case with contrast-colour lugs. The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, on the other hand, is offered separately in two guises: 41 mm in white gold, or 38 mm in rose gold with diamonds. The Arceau L’Heure de la Lune three-piece set Initial thoughts Among Hermès’ whimsical complications, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune stands out as an unconventional and interesting reinterpretation of the simple date-and-moon-phase watch. Unlike traditional moon-phase displays, this employs mobile counters that orbit the dial over a 59-day cycle to reveal the current lunar phase. It’s a large watch and a little thick, but still elegant thanks to the design. The new variants look more modern than their predecessors thanks to the two-tone cases and meteorite dials that sport subtle colour accents that are typically Hermes. The main downside is the fact that the three are delivered as a set, which not only means the cost is high – the set retails for ...

Hands-On With The New Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Automatic And GMT Fratello
Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Automatic Mar 9, 2025

Hands-On With The New Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Automatic And GMT

It’s no secret that I have a huge soft spot for Christopher Ward’s C65 Dune series. I own the first-generation C65 Dune GMT, and the C65 Dune Automatic models are easily among the best affordable daily wearers. It came as a bit of a surprise that the brand decided to update the Dune lineup with […] Visit Hands-On With The New Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Automatic And GMT to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1 Fratello
Seiko Vanac Vs Toledano & Mar 9, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1

And before you know it, it is Sunday again! Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. We hope you are comfortable, with a cup of coffee in hand and a croissant nearby. Depending on where you are, maybe you are even greeted by a soft spring sunshine. Well, say goodbye to your peaceful morning because we […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1 to read the full article.

The Evergreens – An Interesting Case… The History of the Almost Century-Old Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Mar 7, 2025

The Evergreens – An Interesting Case… The History of the Almost Century-Old Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Today, there is only one Reverso, with Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on its dial, but this was not always the case. During the 1930s, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Cartier made watches that used the Reverso case for their timepieces. Moreover, the 1931 Reverso was not the first reversible case design. A few years earlier, Universal Geneve […]

Recapping the Launch Event of the Citizen Premier Collections Worn & Wound
Citizen Premier Collections   Mar 7, 2025

Recapping the Launch Event of the Citizen Premier Collections

  On the evening of Thursday, February 27th, atop Freedom Tower at the World Trade Center in NYC-with a perfect view of Citizen’s US headquarters within the Empire State Building-Eric Horowitz, the brand’s Managing Director, announced the formation of a new division within Citizen. Dubbed Citizen Premier, this new endeavor represents what Citizen describes as “the pinnacle of watchmaking,” and highlights their ability to marry technological innovations with high-end Japanese craftsmanship in what will be a range of higher end, more refined products, all while maintaining the tried and true value-driven offerings we’ve come to appreciate more and more in recent years. Citizen Premier is an entirely new category within the Citizen ecosystem that launches with two of their most popular brands: Series8 and Attesa. These collections push the boundaries of Citizen’s movement technology and materials expertise. Series8 incorporates bold, contemporary designs into modern sports watches housing automatic movements, while Attesa places a focus on Super Titanium, Eco-Drive technology, and avant-garde design. It’s clear that Citizen views this announcement as a major milestone at a time when the brand is enjoying renewed strength in the enthusiast market. It’s no secret that Citizen has been on a run lately with watches targeted directly at the enthusiast community. Chances are you’ve spotted various Citizens on wrists at Windups and meetups more frequently now ...

Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Mar 7, 2025

Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon

Drawn from a Russian fairy tale about a bun coming to life, the Kolobok 2 arrives a year after Konstantin Chaykin revealed the original Kolobok. Like its predecessors in the Wristmon collection, this features a dial inspired by the titular character’s face. But the Kolobok 2 marks a departure from the first version in two notable ways: it is now a regular production watch rather than a limited edition, and it features a La Joux-Perret base movement instead of an ETA. Initial thoughts The Kolobok 2 is the latest of many Wristmon models, arguably too many to date. However, the fact that this is a regular production model, as opposed to a limited edition, is a positive development since it indicates the brand is leaving behind the multiple-edition approach. That aside, the watch itself is an upgrade over earlier versions. Although the new Kolobok 2 has the same simple functions arranged as a face, it is powered by a new movement based on the La Joux-Perret G200, replacing the modified ETA 2892-A2 used in preceding entry-level Wristmon models. This calibre is a step forward for the Wristmon model. Amongst other things that put it ahead of the ETA 2892, the G200 sports a a full balance bridge with a free-sprung balance. Another wristmon The Kolobok 2 retains the same dimensions and technical specifications as its predecessors, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 12.2 mm in thickness. As with all Wristmons, it features a notched bezel with 12 screws and a case that’s predominan...

Tissot PRC 100 Solar Watch Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Mar 6, 2025

Tissot PRC 100 Solar Watch Review

Tissot is best known for introducing compelling models with Swiss-made craftsmanship, like its fan-favorite PRX line, at some of the market's most competitive price points. Today, the brand is breathing new life into a collection that had lain dormant for the past few years with the new solar quartz-powered PRC 100 Solar. The best part? All of the models retail for under $600.    Introduced in the mid-2000s, the PRC 100 line is defined by its geometry, namely, the twelve-sided dodecagonal bezel. The line offered several iterations, including both simple time and date options as well as chronograph takes on the model family. In recent years, the brand has focussed its energy elsewhere in its collection, and most of the enthusiast crowd has locked in on its aforementioned array of PRX models, which can be found in just about every color and size option one can dream up. But now, the PRC 100 is back with a bang, complete with all the set it and forget it convenience of quartz, but with a solar-powered twist with the brand’s advanced “Lightmaster” technology.  There are a number of solar quartz options available on the market today, but Tissot has gone the innovative route with the PRC 100 Solar. Typically, solar-powered watches have relied on solar paneling and cells beneath the dial for charging and often require some dial or bezel transparency for the photovoltaic energy to charge the battery. In the case of the Swiss solar quartz used in these models (which the br...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Revival Diver Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Revival Diver Mar 6, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Revival Diver

For most of my watch-buying life, fun dive watches have mostly been big dive watches. Colorful, loud, capable waterproof options have tended to correspond with case dimensions of equal impact and presence, while the sub-40mm dive watch space has belonged to relatively sedate interpretations of the classic dive watch formula - and even then, 39mm has been the sweet spot for ‘small’ divers. But over the last few release cycles (if those even exist anymore), we’ve started to see signs of a shift, and I can think of few better examples of this change than the Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648, released last year as part of Zenith’s grand re-entry into the dive space. Last summer, I got to spend a few weeks with the Zenith Defy Revival Diver’s bigger, brasher brother, the Defy Extreme Diver, and I came away wildly impressed. The Defy Extreme Diver was a watch that punched way above its weight class (or at least its price point) while feeling like a genuinely novel take on a modern dive watch from a brand with shockingly little history in the space. So when I had the chance to spend some time with that watch’s vintage-inspired counterpart, I jumped. This extended visit with the Revival Diver wasn’t my first hands-on experience with the watch - I got to spend a few minutes with it when I went to pick up the Extreme Diver back in June - but on that day, I didn’t find myself particularly taken with the Revival. While I’ve long admired Zenith’s dual identity...

Tissot Introduces the PRC 100 Collection with a New Solar Powered Movement Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Spring Drive comes Mar 6, 2025

Tissot Introduces the PRC 100 Collection with a New Solar Powered Movement

There are a number of watchmaking technologies that are tough to appreciate until you’ve actually spent considerable time with a watch. Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive comes to mind, especially if you’re inclined to constantly check your watch’s accuracy. The consistency over time of a Spring Drive movement is kind of mindblowing if you’re used to “normal” mechanical watches. Similarly, high accuracy quartz, from any brand, is tough to wrap your arms around until you’ve gone months without needing a reset because your watch is keeping time to within a second or two. And ultra-thin watches deserve a mention here as well. A watch that you literally forget you’re wearing because it’s so thin can be a special thing when properly executed.  But in terms of actually making your day to day life easier, there are few technologies that match the practicality of solar powered timekeeping. There are a bunch of brands that offer watches with solar movements, and for some it’s really become their stock-in-trade. Today, Tissot expands their solar offerings with the new PRC 100 Solar collection, bringing an aging collection up to date with some modern tech that should have broad appeal to both the mass market and the most sensible, practical, enthusiasts among us.  The PRC 100 was originally introduced in the mid 2000s and is easily identified by its dodecagonal bezel. PRC is an acronym that stands for “Precise, Robust, and Classic,” which seems like the right canv...

Seiko Marks 60 Years of Diving with Prospex Editions (and a Micro-Adjust Clasp) SJX Watches
Zodiac cycle Mar 6, 2025

Seiko Marks 60 Years of Diving with Prospex Editions (and a Micro-Adjust Clasp)

To celebrate 60 years of dive watches, Seiko is diving into the deep end with three additions to the Prospex range: the 60th Anniversary Marinemaster Professional (SLA081), 1968 Heritage Diver GMT (SPB509), and 1965 Heritage Diver (SPB511). Whether you’re a die-hard Seiko collector or simply a looking for an affordable, high quality diver, all three are distinct enough from their stablemates to be worth a look. But as exciting as the watches are, they’re arguably overshadowed by something simple yet significant, a feature Seiko enthusiasts have been requesting for a long time. The SPB509 and SPB511 are both equipped with a steel bracelet incorporating a micro-adjustment clasp that can be resized on the go by up to 15 mm, as opposed to the less practical diving extension found in preceding models. The 1968 Heritage Diver GMT SPB509 (left), and 1965 Heritage Diver SPB511 Initial thoughts In Western culture, significant anniversaries like the 25th, 50th, and 100th tend to be celebrated with great fanfare. In contrast, Japanese culture (and also widely East Asian culture) emphasises the 60th birthday – kanreki in Japanese – which also coincides with the completion of the traditional 12-year zodiac cycle. In this context, it’s worth looking closely at how Seiko is choosing to celebrate this milestone. The 1965 and 1968 Heritage models are powered by the well-known cal. 6R-series movements, which offer a 72-hour power reserve. While the pair are essentially variants o...

Seiko Revives the Funky, Facetted King Seiko Vanac SJX Watches
Seiko Revives Mar 6, 2025

Seiko Revives the Funky, Facetted King Seiko Vanac

In the 1970s, arguably no watch brand was having more fun than Seiko, which launched the bold King Seiko Vanac collection in 1972. Five decades on, Seiko returns to the concept with the all-new King Seiko Vanac, with bold dial colours and an angular, faceted case inspired by its namesake. Despite an entirely new design – the modern-day Vanac is not a remake – the collection captures the style and spirit of the funky 1970s originals perfectly. Available in five different dial colours, each inspired by the Tokyo skyline at a different time of day, the Vanac also features a new automatic cal. 8L45, now the highest-spec movement for Seiko’s mid tier watches. Initial thoughts The past decade has treated us to more than our fair share of vintage reissues, which by and large have focused on the glorious designs of the 1950s and 1960s. But there are only so many historical designs from this era that a brand can revisit, and as we move into 2025, it’s nice to see a little variety as Seiko looks to the 1970s. And while the Vanac is very much vintage inspired, it isn’t quite a reissue of any particular historical model. Though the bracelet is integrated, the design is different enough from Gerald Genta’s designs that it avoids the common pitfall of looking like it’s trying too hard to look like something else. A selection of vintage Vanac watches The Vanac features a 41 mm case that is quite chunky at 14.3 mm. The case itself is essentially an elongated hexagon, with a ...

Hands-On: The MK II Fulcrum 39 Worn & Wound
Mar 5, 2025

Hands-On: The MK II Fulcrum 39

One of my favorite games to play when visiting family is something I like to call “Guess, That, Price!” Here’s how it works: I excitedly dump out my rolls and pouches to reveal to the group what watches I have in for review at that time. They then pour over the details, proudly identifying the features of each watch, and then guess the retail price of each piece to see who comes the closest. On my most recent episode of “Guess, That, Price!” I had with me a trio of watches, one of which being the new MK II Fulcrum 39. As it made its rounds, they began calling out features such as the bezel action, the weight of the watch, and the overall rugged visual appearance. When prompted, the three contestants gave me their estimated MSRP of $22,000, $26,000, and finally $31,000. Yes, they are pretty bad at this game. However, what they lack in accuracy is made up for in providing an interesting data point for me. This watch has the potential to carry a higher perceived value than its actual asking price which is not something that typically happens. It pushed me to explore the watch further.  From the outset, I’ll admit I was a little disappointed with the new Fulcrum. A massive fan of MK II and Tornek-Rayville, I had inflated expectations that this piece would blow me away. To put it bluntly, this is my least favorite watch they have produced to date. I hate that I am writing that, and I hate that I am admitting that, but at the end of the day sometimes things fall sho...

Interview: Ming Thein on the All New Project 21, a Tantalum Dress Watch with a Restored Vintage Movement Worn & Wound
Ming Mar 5, 2025

Interview: Ming Thein on the All New Project 21, a Tantalum Dress Watch with a Restored Vintage Movement

If MING Watches isn’t on your radar, I don’t really know what to tell you. The brand, which has been around since 2017 and was founded by photographer and watch enthusiast Ming Thein (his current job title at the brand, at least according to LinkedIn, is ‘Supreme Overlord’), has stood at the forefront of the small independent movement since the day it launched, and has been a tremendous object lesson in the ability and aspiration of small brands.  In the nearly eight years since the brand launched, they’ve made a lot of very cool watches, and possibly cooler than the watches themselves has been the diversity of their offering - diversity in style, functionality, and (notably) price. Now, MING has released its latest marvel, the MING 21.01 ‘Project 21,’ a dream watch for Ming himself and a clear summation of what the brand has been and done up to this point while offering a glimpse into the eponymous founder’s head and maybe even offering some clues as to what will come next for the brand. So what is the Project 21? Well, put simply, it’s a 35mm tantalum-cased dress watch built around a historically significant ultra-thin movement. Factor in a little more nuance, and it’s exceedingly clear that the Project 21 is an experiment in pushing the brand to its limits, just to see where those limits happen to be. The new watch, which will only be available in extraordinarily limited quantities, was inspired by a challenge thrown down at a 2023 collector’s d...

Introducing the Lead Sponsors of the Windup Watch Fair Dallas Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Oris Mar 4, 2025

Introducing the Lead Sponsors of the Windup Watch Fair Dallas

With the Windup Watch Fair Dallas just a little over a week away, we’re excited to introduce you to our Lead Sponsors and give you a taste of what to expect from their offerings this year! As a reminder, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public to encourage anyone to attend, including both watch nerds and novices alike. Here are the details of our Dallas event: Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Saturday, March 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, March 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary Our Lead Sponsors at Windup Dallas-Christopher Ward, Oris, and Zodiac-are pillars of the Windup Watch Fair experience and the enthusiast community. They represent the breadth of what you can find at the show, so we’re excited to highlight a bit of what they plan to have on display. The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT Christopher Ward, the UK-based watch company, has never shied away from a “big umbrella” approach when it comes to making price-accessible timepieces that don’t compromise on style or quality. Their latest C63 Sealander 36 GMT is no exception. True to the Sealander’s ‘Go Anywhere, Do Everything’ mantra, the 36 GMT boasts an ultra-legible dial adorned with applied indices, a twin-flags logo, a symmetrical 6 o’clock date, and brushed and polished hands filled with Super-LumiNova®. The GMT hand, featuring a vibrant orange accent, adds a sporty contrast to the White, Black, and Dragonfly Blue d...

Introducing the New Sinn 613 St and 613 St UTC Worn & Wound
Sinn 613 St Mar 4, 2025

Introducing the New Sinn 613 St and 613 St UTC

The new year has already seen a slate of new Sinn timepieces with fresh color schemes, designs, and materials. But the German brand hasn’t forgotten the importance of the watch as a tool, either, and the new 613 St and 613 St UTC are prime examples of Sinn’s dedication to functionality in tandem with form.  With a crisp matte black dial and white chronograph subdial at 6 o’clock, the 613 St embodies Sinn’s most recognizable principles of legible design. Day and date windows sit at the 3 position, with Sinn’s Ar-Dehumidifying Technology logo at 4, indicating that the 613 St comes with the proprietary anti-fogging technology. A second subdial-black with light gray borders and numerals-occupies the 9 o’clock position, giving the 613 St both 60-minute and “running seconds” stopwatch functions.  The 613 St UTC variant adds another layer of complication, with a second time zone featuring light gray 24-hour markers around the inside of the dial. Here, a UTC text detail also replaces the day window and the 60-second subdial is infringed upon, but all else remains the same between the two siblings design-wise. Indices and the hour, minute, and second hands on both models are luminescent, as is the key mark on the minute-ratcheting captive diver’s bezel. An anti-reflective sapphire crystal sits atop the dial. Both 613 St variants are protected by the same bead-blasted stainless steel case, measuring 41mm in diameter. A screw-down crown and caseback seal in th...