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Romain Gauthier Introduces the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette SJX Watches
Jun 29, 2020

Romain Gauthier Introduces the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette

Romain Gauthier’s latest watch is a skeletonised version of its Insight time-only automatic first introduced three years ago. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette retains the same style as the brand’s other watches, but with more elaborate finishing thanks to the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Romain Gauthier excels in finishing and the new watch undoubtedly has even more of the brand’s top-quality work since there are more surfaces to decorate. The skeletonisation also goes well with the movement, accentuating the long curves and sharp points that are typical of Romain Gauthier style. Importantly, it’s not just a visual upgrade, but also a tangible one – instead of the usual brass, the bridges and base plate of the skeletonised movement are made of titanium. But the titanium parts are finished to the same degree as a standard brass movement, which is quite a feat. And the basic Insight is already a well-conceived watch in the first place. It avoids some of the impractical features, like button winding and back winding, that Romain Gauthier installed on earlier models just to be different. That said, the skeleton version also suffers from one shortcoming of the standard model, which is the thick, 12.9 mm case. Nonetheless, the Insight skeleton is largely an enhanced version of an already-excellent watch. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette with a carbon-composite case The only downside is the price – which is no doubt justifiable. The skeleton in an 18k gold...

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase Titanium Hands on Review WatchAdvice
Hublot Spirit Jun 24, 2020

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase Titanium Hands on Review

Introduction Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang collection has always piqued my interest, and when a 42mm variant was released back in 2016 – I paid attention. Primarily because I saw the size as more accessible, and the design more refined and in proportion. In fact, back then I wrote about this exact model —  The Hublot Spirit Big Bang Moonphase Titanium — for another publication. Surprisingly though – it took a good four years before I actually went hands-on for proper inspection.  After a couple of weeks on loan, I’m happy to report back on what it’s like to wear the Spirit of Big Bang around town. First Impressions As far as first impressions go, the Spirit of Big Bang is bold, brawny and makes quite the splash. Although fairly monochromatic in design, the SOBB feels significant, carrying an aura of cool on wrist. The size isn’t outrageous, it’s comfortable to wear, and from a distance, the Skeleton dial seamlessly blends into the titanium case. Although watch enthusiasts will instantly recognise the tonneau case shape, the Spirit of Big Bang maintained an ‘under-the-radar’ feel to it – which I found appealing. On The Wrist On the wrist, the Hublot SOBB sits snugly thanks to the curve on the underside of the tonneau case, which balances its height. Coming in at a reasonable 42mm, the case has a balanced blend of polish and satin finishing. Initially, I found the height took some getting used to, being a little thicker than my usual. The Spirit Of Bi...

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 Cartier collection Time+Tide
Cartier collection There are hundreds Jun 19, 2020

VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 Cartier collection

There are hundreds of emotions that flood through you when looking at a Cartier watch. Authentic historical contributions to aviation timekeeping, coupled with more than 170 years in the jewellery industry, shrouds the French name in an air of romance, adventure and audacious style. With few models is this truer than the Santos-Dumont, originally designed … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 Cartier collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

8 Rare Timepieces By Independent Watchmakers Featuring In Phillips’ June 2020 Geneva Watch Auction: XI (Updated With Results) Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Jun 19, 2020

8 Rare Timepieces By Independent Watchmakers Featuring In Phillips’ June 2020 Geneva Watch Auction: XI (Updated With Results)

Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction: XI will be led by a great selection of fine collectible timepieces hailing from powerhouses including Patek Philippe and Rolex as well as independent watchmakers such as F.P. Journe and Kari Voutilainen. And there's even a near-mythical Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter on offer here. Check out what other unusual timepieces by independent watchmakers you might find.

The 4 details that make the the all-new Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 Limited Edition so compelling Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 6007A-001 Limited Jun 18, 2020

The 4 details that make the the all-new Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 Limited Edition so compelling

2020 has been a year for a lot of things: a global pandemic, a quarter of a year spent indoors, no Baselworld, no Olympics, and iconic watchmakers like Patek Philippe and Rolex seemingly putting the kibosh on any new novelties. Except, while the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation has so far stuck to their guns, a short … ContinuedThe post The 4 details that make the the all-new Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 Limited Edition so compelling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Top 10 watches of Virtual Baselworld 2020, inc. Hublot, Longines, Seiko, Casio and Hamilton Time+Tide
Longines Seiko Casio Jun 16, 2020

VIDEO: The Top 10 watches of Virtual Baselworld 2020, inc. Hublot, Longines, Seiko, Casio and Hamilton

Any Seinfeld fans will know what I’m talking about when I say that the Home Delivery Watch Fair, where we re-created both SIHH (or Watches & Wonders, as it’s known now) and Baselworld, was more akin to Kramer’s version of the Merv Griffin show than it was a real watch fair. As in, it was … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Top 10 watches of Virtual Baselworld 2020, inc. Hublot, Longines, Seiko, Casio and Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly Neon SJX Watches
Swatch Jun 15, 2020

Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly Neon

Only just introduced earlier in the year, the Big Bold Jelly is a modern, majorly-upsized take on the Jelly Fish (ref. GZ010) of 1983 that had visible innards, just like the eponymous marine species. Now the jellyfish gets a dose of colour with the Big Bold Jelly Neon. Essentially the same watch as the clear Big Bold Jelly, it is dressed up in bright, neon colours – orange, yellow, green or blue – for a more edgy and lively look. Initial thoughts Swatch watches are popular for their eccentric, recognisable designs – and were wildly popular 30 years ago in their heyday – and the Big Bold Jelly Neon is no different. The watch is indeed big and bold. The translucent plastic case is 47 mm – matched with a translucent strap – and reveals the gears of the quartz movement on the clear dial. And it has the crown at two o’clock, which is pretty unconventional. The particular combination of whimsical quirks rarely exists in other watches, which makes the Big Bold case immediately distinct from afar. The Big Bold Jelly Neon is also the boldest and most vibrant variant of the model to date, thanks to the punctuating accents of colour on the face, which even extend to the lugs and the buckle. They are welcome additions to the “jellyfish” aesthetic, making the watch even more striking than the previous Big Bold Jelly and encapsulate the essence of Swatch – fun, cheerful and eye catching. And the colours also make the watch a good choice for the trendy who are into...

Shrouded In Mystery And Fire: Opals In Jaquet Droz And Piaget Timepieces – Reprise Quill & Pad
Piaget Timepieces – Reprise Alexander Jun 14, 2020

Shrouded In Mystery And Fire: Opals In Jaquet Droz And Piaget Timepieces – Reprise

Alexander Doerr had never really paid much attention to opals before, but upon closer inspection he realized this gemstone is extraordinary – shrouded in mystery and well worth learning more about. Looking at an opal is like looking at fireworks or even looking into a galaxy. And, as he learned, two Swiss watch brands specialize in using the fiery gemstone in watches: Jaquet Droz and Piaget.

VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green is flat out the best value dive watch on the market right now Time+Tide
Longines HydroConquest 41mm Jun 13, 2020

VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green is flat out the best value dive watch on the market right now

The Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green possesses two of the most popular characteristics found on any timepiece today – it’s a dive watch, and it’s green. But there’s so much more to this watch than those en vogue features. In fact, when you consider its very reasonable retail price, it might be one of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green is flat out the best value dive watch on the market right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Blue SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Jun 11, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Blue

Unveiled just last year, the Bell & Ross BR 05 was yet another luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelets, but priced more affordably than the average. The flagship model of the line up was the BR 05 Skeleton, an urban and contemporary open-worked watch that’s just been given a new look. The BR 05 Skeleton Blue is essentially the same as last year’s model, but facelifted with a blue-tinted sapphire dial that gives it a punchier look. Initial thoughts The BR 05 is one of my favourites from Bell & Ross. The design blends the key elements of the brand’s flagship military-aviation watches like the BR 01 and BR 03, and incorporates them into a case that is modern and sharp, giving it arguably greater mainstream appeal than the military-inspired pilot’s watches. While the BR 01 and BR 03 are undoubtedly icons, their tool-like appearance and large case – 46 mm and 42 mm respectively – definitely dissuade some. On the other hand, the BR 05 is much more manageable on the wrist at 40 mm wide and 10.4 mm in height. Though it’s smaller than the BR 01 and BR 03, the case is architectural in form, and features myriad textures – polished and satin-brushed surfaces, often separated by polished bevels. The result is a smallish but appealing case that manages to look three-dimensional. I feel that the BR 05 Skeleton works better as a whole, compared to its solid-dial counterparts. The open-worked movement enhances the visual depth of the watch. While the blue-tinte...

Auction Watch: Singer Reimagined Track 1 Prototype at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe souscription watches Jun 10, 2020

Auction Watch: Singer Reimagined Track 1 Prototype at Phillips

Founded in 2017 as the watchmaking arm of Singer Vehicle Design, the critically-acclaimed rebuilder of early 1990s Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined specialises in chronographs powered by an ingenious Agenhor movement. But before Singer Reimagined settled on its retro-inspired case design, it made a Track 1 prototype with an equally retro but more angular case that is going under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva watch auction, the same that includes a pair of much-hyped F.P. Journe souscription watches. The production version of the Track 1 has cushion-shaped, titanium case with a radial brushed finish that is very much reminiscent of sports chronographs of the 1970s that were produced by host of brands, ranging from Omega to Heuer. It also has a “bullhead” pusher layout, with the chronograph buttons on the left and right sides of the case. More importantly, the standard Track 1 features short lugs with a narrow hood over the end of the strap, making the strap look almost integrated. The Track 1 in 18k gold (left) and titanium In contrast, the prototype has longer lugs with a pronounced opening for the strap. It’s still made of titanium, with a similar brushed case finish, and also evocative of the 1970s, but a different look altogether. Like the production watch, the prototype has wide, polished bevels separating the brushed tops and sides of the cases The prototype is fitted to a NATO-style leather strap – with matching, brushed titanium rings – that loo...

LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch Time+Tide
De Bethune Jun 6, 2020

LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch

If you haven’t heard of James Thompson, aka Black Badger, you’ve probably seen his brightly lit work online. He’s done collaborations with independent watchmakers such as MB&F;, De Bethune, and Sarpaneva, and has more recently been working with the King of Customisation himself, George Bamford. While much of what Black Badger is known for is … ContinuedThe post LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; Introduces the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser SJX Watches
H. Moser Partners Jun 5, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser

Partners for more than a decade in the supply of hairsprings, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F; have recently announced their first watch collaboration. Both mark their 15th anniversaries with a pair of watches that each brand designed for the other, blending the defining traits of both. MB&F; helped styled the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F;, while Moser added its signature aesthetic to the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser. A refreshing take on MB&F;’s simplest Legacy Machine, the new LM101 has a steel case and the option of four dial colours in Moser’s signature smoked finish – Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, red fumé, and Aqua Blue fumé – each limited to 15 pieces. The watch incorporates the aesthetic sensibilities of H. Moser & Cie on the front, along with a slight redesign of the movement. Initial thoughts Based on the photos, the new LM101 is one of the most appealing recent watches from MB&F;, though that isn’t really a surprise since it synthesises the elements that have made both brands successful – and the elements remain successful when combine together. The most apparent is the sunray-brushed, fumé dial that is very much Moser. Although the brand did not invent the look, the smoked finish has become synonymous with the brand – and the fumé effect also translates very well on the LM101. While the Moser fumé finish has been added, the traditional sub-dials (for the time and power reserve) of the LM101 have been removed. This streamlinin...

Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie and Maximilian Büsser of MB&F; just had twins, and they’re bloody beautiful Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Jun 3, 2020

Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie and Maximilian Büsser of MB&F; just had twins, and they’re bloody beautiful

Collaborations, no matter the context, are fraught with the potential of being, more often than not a curious reduction in the individual talents involved. Instead of following the apparent logic that it may be ‘twice as good’ as the individual party’s work, it’s commonly quite the opposite. Half as good, if that. And consequently, neither … ContinuedThe post Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie and Maximilian Büsser of MB&F; just had twins, and they’re bloody beautiful appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: H. Moser × MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon  SJX Watches
H. Moser × MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Jun 3, 2020

Up Close: H. Moser × MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon 

Long rumoured and much anticipated, the tie-up between MB&F; and H. Moser & Cie. is here. Moser applied its sensibilities to the MB&F; LM101, while MB&F; revamped its Moser Endeavour Tourbillon. The result is the H. Moser × MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, which is more than a new, smoky paint job. It is indeed a Moser tourbillon enhanced with MB&F; design, but the redesign goes beyond the styling. An indirect going train was added to reposition the time display, and more importantly, the tourbillon has been reconstructed to feature a cylindrical hairspring, which is surprisingly cool in action. Initial thoughts When I found out about the Moser and MB&F; collaboration some months ago, I expected it to be a wristwatch with a fumé dial and MB&F;-inspired detailing – and it is. At a distance, it is reminiscent of the recent MB&F; LM Thunderdome Triple-Axis Tourbillon, which is substantially more complicated, but also substantially more expensive. Up close, the details reveal it is a Moser. Some details, like the fumé dial, are obvious, while others, like the curved hairspring stud holder and two-tone balance wheel, are more subtle. The watch is not as predictable as the MB&F; x Moser formula might imply. Despite sticking to Moser’s minimalist leanings, the face manages to be thoroughly three-dimensional, though legibility is so-so. Most importantly, it boasts a compelling tourbillon – that is really impressive in motion – while being less expensive than the typical...