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Every Tudor Black Bay: 79220R/B/N, 79230, 79030 BB58, 79830RB Pro, 7939 GMT METAS, S&G, Bronze, Chrono.
The Tudor heritage diver that revived the brand and references every vintage Submariner.
Revolution
Our favorite rabbit on the moon is back. The Revolution x De Rijke & Co. Miffy Double Moonphase “Black & Pink” adopts this beautiful light blush tone, and continues the story of two Miffies sitting on crescent moons, set against a backdrop of a midnight blue sky blanketed by stars. And just as Miffy the […]
Worn & Wound
Tudor expands their FXD family today with a new regular production reference that features a black dial and bezel. The watch follows the same formula as the Marine Nationale FXD that was released in late 2021, a flat 12.7mm thick, 42mm titanium case with a fixed lug design. There are a few changes here worth noting, however, and this might just be the most approachable FXD to date. While there is no official affiliation with this watch, the latest FXD was released alongside a display of the brand’s rich history in issued watches, right next to the original Sealab I at the Man In The Sea museum in Panama City Florida. The setting is a fitting reminder of the remarkable Sealab program, and an era when watches like this were used as indispensable tools, the same as a compass or knife. This the spirit of the FXD and even the broader Pelagos collection as a whole, and as such we’ll be putting the new watch through its paces on a dive in the Gulf of Mexico, keep an eye out for the full report from the experience coming soon. The black FXD welcomes the same bit of red text at the bottom of the dial that we saw in the Pelagos 39 released last year. It provides the same benefit here, serving to reduce the visual weight of the 4 lines of text at the bottom of the dial. The matte black dial is joined by a matte black bezel insert (no sunburst pattern here), and the bezel is the biggest departure from the original FXD. Rather than counting down, and bi-directional (features done...
Quill & Pad
The first Black Tot Day was in 1970, the last day on which sailors in the United Kingdom’s Royal Navy were issued their daily rum rations (“tots”). Pusser's has taken the exact recipe used by the Royal Navy when it discontinued the daily ration on July 31, 1970 and used it to make its rums, the only producer in the world to do so. Here, Ken Gargett fills us in on everything tot - he luckily doesn't go "sipping the admiral," though.
Time+Tide
The evolution of Speake-Marin continues. Back when the brand was owned by its founder, most of their business was conducted as bespoke orders for extremely wealthy clients. After the management shake-up, we’ve seen Speake-Marin release a few new and more affordable references as part of the Ripples collection as well as brightly coloured editions of … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Academic Black Tie is minimalist and avant-garde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
On January 1, 2022, watch spotters were flummoxed by a photograph of President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama in their New Year's Eve party dress. The former POTUS appeared to be wearing a black Royal Oak-style chronograph on a rubber strap. The watch in question turned out to be a collaboration between Teleport, a little-known U.S.-based fashion watch producer, and Actively Black, a U.S.-owned leisurewear company. Colin Alexander Smith managed to get his hands on one for a closer look, which he shares here.
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Time+Tide
The watch community may be more familiar with their Adventure, Independent, and Wild One collections, but a top-seller for the Norqain brand is their Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm. Today, a new limited-edition installment has just entered the chat, with a handsome bronze panda vibe, that appears to be a worthy successor to one of their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Bronze – Black Dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded by a group of watch enthusiasts from Singapore and Malaysia, Boldr Supply Co. first got off the ground on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter like many of its peers. Now best known for its affordable sports watches, the brand’s latest has a titanium case containing Seiko movement, but the highlight is something else, or more specifically, nothing else. The Venture Singularity has a dial of infinite blackness thanks to a coating of Musou Black, which absorbs 99.4% of incident light. Made by a Japanese company, Musou Black is similar to better known Vantablack in being blacker than black. Initial thoughts Boldr nails it again with another affordable and fun watch, but the Singularity stands out for its value proposition, one that’s arguably better than Boldr’s other offerings. As watches with ultra-black dial go, this has little competition – comparable watches usually cost much, much more. Boldr isn’t the first microbrand offering such a dial at a modest price but the Singularity is an unusually complete package with its lightweight titanium case and bracelet, along with a useful 200 m water resistance. Granted, the Singularity still looks and feels like it price aside from the dial, but it is something novel amongst watches that are very accessible. Priced at US$445, the Singularity unsurprisingly sold out quickly when the first batch went on sale. But it’s not a limited edition and pre-orders for the second batch are now open with delivery starting in...
SJX Watches
Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...
Time+Tide
Hublot has made a habit of mastering the art of collaboration – art being the operative word. Their creations provide many artist with an inspiring and complex canvas on which to express themselves, whether through colour, texture or material. That creative fusion brought to life by the imagination of an artist continues with their latest … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot x Shepard Fairey Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It is quite fitting Furlan Marri decided to name their collections “stories”. Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri knew from the outset they had many stories they wanted to tell. And by stories, I mean an effort to carefully roll out different horological visions, or chapters, with the goal of shaking up the notion of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
The first Black Tot Day was in 1970, the last day on which sailors in the United Kingdom’s Royal Navy were issued their daily rum rations (“tots”). Pusser's has taken the exact recipe used by the Royal Navy when it discontinued the daily ration on July 31, 1970 and used it to make its rums, the only producer in the world to do so. Here, Ken Gargett fills us in on everything tot - he luckily doesn't go "sipping the admiral," though.
Quill & Pad
On January 1, 2022, watch spotters were flummoxed by a photograph of President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama in their New Year's Eve party dress. The former POTUS appeared to be wearing a black Royal Oak-style chronograph on a rubber strap. The watch in question turned out to be a collaboration between Teleport, a little-known U.S.-based fashion watch producer, and Actively Black, a U.S.-owned leisurewear company. Colin Alexander Smith managed to get his hands on one for a closer look, which he shares here.
Time+Tide
The next chapter in the Seiko Prospex “Black Series” has arrived. Inspired by the world of night diving, the brand has taken the plunge with three new blacked out watches the SRPH11K (Samurai), the SNE577P (Tuna) and the SRPH13K (Monster). The “Black Series” concept first dropped in 2018 with two Solar models and an automatic Turtle, the SRPC49. The … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko unleashes a Black-Ops style Tuna, Monster & Samurai, all sub $650USD. Which do you pick? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Forget the ties, the socks and all those “gifts” you had lined up for this coming Father’s Day (which is this Sunday in Australia). Bulgari is mixing things up a bit by way of their newly released Father’s Day Gift Guide (which can be found here). Highlighted in the guide is a mixture of jewellery … ContinuedThe post Bet on black with the Bulgari Bulgari ref. 103540 for Father’s Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The watch looks very attractive despite its all black color. The spinning dial with all that diamonds and the contrasting satin-polished ceramic surfaces make for a highly reflective timepiece. Subtle bling if one were to term it. Priced at USD 27’300, the limited edition to 200 piece collaboration piece is expected to be highly collectible especially in Japan, where the artist Takashi Murakami hails from and where Hublot has a super fan base.
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Time+Tide
Unlike my erudite and learned colleagues on this website, those who have read this column in the past will know my horological lusts aren’t governed by the usual parameters. Which is my way of saying that a bargain is where I’m at. To paraphrase the great Billy Connolly: “My dad was so tight he’d wake … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Back in 2019, Longines introduced the Heritage Classic, a remake of a 1934 watch with a “sector” dial. Combining a popular, retro style with an affordable price tag – we gave it a thumb-up in our review – the original Heritage Classic was a success. Now Longines has given the Heritage Classic a black dial, while keeping the rest of the formula the same. Initial thoughts Longines can’t be accused of being imaginative, but that’s perfectly fine as the brand’s forte, at least for watch enthusiasts, is its vintage remakes. In fact, the new Heritage Classic comes just months after the Avigation Bigeye in a new colourway was unveiled. Aside from the dial, the new Heritage Classic is identical to the 2019 model in every regard, so it has the same appeal as its predecessor, though I prefer the black dial over the silver. The 2019 Heritage Classic There’s an austerity to the dark dial that better fits the “sector” dial, which is occasionally known as a “scientific” dial. I already liked the clean and minimalist look before, and now its lines seem sharper in black. However, the black dial forgoes the heat-blued hands of the silver dial, which is a shame, but a necessity given the need for contrasting hands. Priced at US$2,150 on a leather strap and slightly more on a beads-of-rice bracelet, the new Heritage Classic also has the same price – a good thing since that the 2019 original was one of the best value propositions of the year. The new Heritage Cl...
Time+Tide
In 2019, one of the most celebrated watches by the enthusiast community was the Longines Heritage Classic sector dial. The heritage reissue trend was in full flight, with Longines being one of the brands that had ridden the wave the best, and the blend of authentic historical design cues with a relatively affordable price made … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Classic sector dial, now available with black dial on bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther took the watch world by storm, and some very well known athletes have been spotted wearing it.The post From Neymar to Lebron – 4 powerhouse athletes spotted wearing the AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black is possibly the best looking modern Seamaster in today's lineup. It is in the larger size variant at 43.5 mm, but benefits from an all black case, dial and hands combination. By virtue of this matte black color, the watch is stealthy and unpretentious. The reliability of the co-axial movement with tested accuracy and anti-magnetism makes it ideal for a daily beater. Water proof to 300m, and fitted with a rubber strap, the watch is definitely versatile and sporty. It is priced at US$8650.
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SJX Watches
With no physical launch event this year, Omega unveiled its new watches in a prerecorded video that concluded with a cameo by its brand ambassador George Clooney. The line up was compact, indicating there will be more new models later in the year. There was only a single Seamaster Diver amongst the new offerings, and it was the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, Seamaster Black Black is typical of Omega in its quality and technology. It’s almost entirely ceramic on the outside, made up of components sintered, sculptured, and sanded with precision. And the Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement within boasts all of the brand’s technical innovations. For a bit under US$9,000, it is a fair deal for the quality and materials. But the all-black look is dated. The pioneer of the look was the Big Bang All Black of 2006, one of Jean-Claude Biver’s opening acts at Hublot. Its success created a wave of all-black watches that lasted for about a decade. And the novelty of the coloured ceramic will be quickly lost if additional variants in other colours of ceramic are introduced, as happened with the Dark Side of the Moon. Black ceramic The dial, bezel, case middle, and case back of the new Seamaster are all black ceramic, specifically zirconium dioxide, or ZrO2. The dial is etched with laser, creating an alternating polished and matte finish, with the polished elements standing out in slight relief. And to prese...
SJX Watches
With Seiko marking its 140th anniversary in 2021, a slew of commemorative editions are expected – the brand already got the ball rolling last year with a King Seiko and Grand Seiko. Now the anniversary line up gets something more affordable, the Presage Sharp Edged Series 140th Anniversary (SPB205). Limited to 4,000 pieces, the SPB205 is inspired by dawn in Tokyo, explaining the gold highlights on the dial set against an all-black case and bracelet, a first for the Presage series, which typically sticks to more traditional polished steel. Initial thoughts The Presage line is well liked for its variety of intriguing dial finishes at affordable prices. One of its sub-lines, the Sharp Edged Series, features a motif known as asanoha – which translates as “hemp leaf” – a geometric pattern traditionally found on clothing, that shimmers in the light thanks to its textured surface. The SPB205 might just be the most striking of the series to date. The gold indices and hands contrast beautifully against the graduated, brown-black dial, which adds a layer of subtlety to the asanoha texture, unlike earlier models featuring more obvious renditions in brighter colours. With its wide lugs and contrast finish on the bracelet, the SPB205 bears more than a passing resemblance to pricier Grand Seiko models. But it has a price tag of US$1,150, making the SPB205 compelling as a package – the dial, finishing, and blacked-out case. Though priced US$150 higher than the earlier vers...
SJX Watches
Unusually for a brand typically associated with robustly-constructed complicated watches, A. Lange & Söhne is unveiling its second ultra-thin wristwatch for the year, the Saxonia Thin “Black Gold Flux”. A limited edition of 50 watches, the new Saxonia Thin is fitted with a dial coated in “black gold flux”, more commonly known as aventurine glass. It’s powered by the hand-wind L093.1, the same calibre found in the 1815 Thin “Homage to F.A. Lange” launched three months ago. Initial thoughts Lange debuted its first aventurine-glass dial in 2018 with a Saxonia Thin that had a “copper blue”. A departure from the brand’s typical look, the sparkly dial gave a somewhat plain dial a lively, striking appearance. Arguably ideal for a dress watch because of its subtle nature, the aventurine-glass dial looks unadorned at a distance, but reveals the glittering metallic flecks up close and under the right light. It’s a useful variation of Lange’s house style that manages to be different in a discreet manner, while still being formal. Venetian glass Measuring 40 mm but standing only 6.2 mm high, the Saxonia Thin appears slightly larger than it is due to its proportions. The new dial should reduce its perceived size somewhat, since darker dials typically appear smaller. The dial is covered in aventurine glass, also known as goldstone, which is essentially glass with crystalline metallic inclusions that give it a characteristic sparkly finish. Invented by Vene...
Time+Tide
If there is any single watch to lovingly blame for the craze of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, it’s the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. When initially launched in 1972, it wasn’t the beloved reference it has become today – in fact, many people were confounded by its introduction, especially given its hefty price … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With December around the corner, the end-of-year party season should be kicking off around about now, with Christmas drinks and all manner of other festivities. Alas, with the UK still awaiting its COVID fate, any cocktail parties on Bond Street or Mayfair are on ice for now. Indeed, as lockdown ponders its own timeframe, it’s … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ralph Lauren ‘Negroni Bear’ Polo Bear watch made me want to wear black tie so bad, I did it in my garden appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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