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The Seven Special Edition Watches Of Time+Tide's FounderFest Hodinkee
Ming next month Aug 13, 2026

The Seven Special Edition Watches Of Time+Tide's FounderFest

New watch season is right around the corner, and our friends at Time & Tide are among the first to move, thanks to not one but seven new watches arriving in September. The watches coincide with the launch of the brand's own watch fair, FounderFest, a show built around independent watchmaking and live music in equal measure. Rather than one exclusive location, FounderFest spans Time & Tide's three Watch Discovery Studios: New York (460 Broome St), Melbourne (178 Collins St), and London (Portland House, 4 Great Portland Street), running 19–20 September, with New York serving as the event's HQ, hosting founders, live interviews, and musical performances. I recently had the chance to see—and photograph—every new piece coming next month. The watches go up for sale globally on 22 September via thefounderfest.com, which will also host the festival online for anyone not on the ground in one of the three cities. Let's jump right in! AWAKE — Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf 'Ultraviolet' Awake may only be seven years old, but in that short time, word has spread quickly on the Sơn Mài and its lacquer dials. For those unfamiliar, these dials are built from layers of natural lacquer applied by hand to the dial surface, then carefully sanded back, worked, and reapplied, a process repeated until the desired depth, texture, and visual effect are met. For the 'Ultraviolet' edition, they've added pure silver-leaf gilding and natural purple and black pigments, resulting in pieces of silver s...

Seiko Doesn’t Rest On Its Laurels: Introducing Two Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Watches Fratello
Seiko Doesn’t Rest Aug 13, 2026

Seiko Doesn’t Rest On Its Laurels: Introducing Two Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Watches

Seiko’s and Japan’s very first wristwatch, the 1913 Laurel, is one of the prettiest watches I have ever seen. More than a century after its conception, it still looks fresh. It’s also, as you can imagine, a rather important watch. To underline that and make it possible to wear a watch that honors the beginning […] Visit Seiko Doesn’t Rest On Its Laurels: Introducing Two Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Watches to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Ideal Watch Size Survey, Matador’s Reinvention, and Myspace’s Return Worn & Wound
Aug 8, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Ideal Watch Size Survey, Matador’s Reinvention, and Myspace’s Return

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Mark Cho’s Ideal Watch Size Survey is Back Co-founder of The Armoury and permanent resident on my own inspiration board, Mark Cho has once again put out his Ideal Watch Size Survey to the masses. For those unfamiliar, Cho first ran the survey from 2018 to 2021, asking participants about their actual wrist size, how they perceived their wrist size, and what they considered the ideal size for a watch. From this data, Cho and others, including ourselves, were able to glean information about industry trends, but also how those trends seem to affect the way we look at our own bodies. In fact, with nearly 1,000 respondents in the original survey, a significant percentage of people viewed their wrists as smaller than average, while Cho’s findings also pointed toward a growing interest in watches around the 37 to 39mm range (keep in mind, this was a time of Big Watch Supremacy in the marketplace). As with any data set, one can’t always say, “X equals Y,” but there is an interesting correlation (or is it causation? I always forget from my Statistics class) between what the industry makes, what collectors buy, and what we eventually convince ourselves we can wear. With...

Seiko Introduces A Purple Rotocall And Five Other New Watches For Its 145th Anniversary Fratello
Seiko Introduces Aug 6, 2026

Seiko Introduces A Purple Rotocall And Five Other New Watches For Its 145th Anniversary

I know it’s become a bit Seiko-heavy here these days, and I have the feeling we haven’t seen the end of it yet. This year marks Seiko’s 145th anniversary, and they’re making sure you are aware. This morning, we received another “drop” straight from Japan. Six new Seiko watches from different collections, all featuring a […] Visit Seiko Introduces A Purple Rotocall And Five Other New Watches For Its 145th Anniversary to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Decade For Watches Fratello
Aug 6, 2026

Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Decade For Watches

What was the ultimate decade for watches? And if you had to choose just one and could only wear watches from that period, which would you pick? They may sound like two straightforward questions, but they quickly become more complicated once you start considering design, movements, innovation, and the sheer variety of watches produced over […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Decade For Watches to read the full article.

The Business of Watches Podcast: Collective Horology CEO Asher Rapkin And Liberty Justice Center Chairman And CEO Sara Albrecht On Suing Trump Over Tariffs Hodinkee
Armin Strom Czapek Fears Ming Aug 5, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Collective Horology CEO Asher Rapkin And Liberty Justice Center Chairman And CEO Sara Albrecht On Suing Trump Over Tariffs

This week on The Business of Watches, Collective Horology co-founder and Chief Executive Asher Rapkin joins us. He brought his lawyer.  While Collective is a Ventura, California-based retailer of independent watch brands, including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, Ming and J.N. Shapiro, Sara Albrecht is the chairman and CEO of The Liberty Justice Center. That's the non-profit litigation firm that led the legal fight successfully challenging President Trump's initial round of tariffs all the way to the Supreme Court of the United States. They won in a surprise decision that ruled the President didn't have the authority to impose levies that increased the cost of importing goods into the U.S., including Swiss-made watches.  The government is now in the process of refunding the approximately $166 billion businesses paid out. Asher Rapkin, co-founder and CEO of Collective Horology in Ventura, California. Of course, the Trump administration found a workaround and immediately slapped on new tariffs and, on July 24, initiated levies of 10% and 12.5% on imported goods, including Swiss-made watches. That's the day that Collective Horology and another importer (dealing in exotic spices), filed a lawsuit against the President and various bodies and individuals in the administration including U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer.  Rapkin explains why his business decided to challenge the tariff laws and take on the President and his administration, while Albrecht lays out the legal...

10.5 Best Watches Under $100,000 That I Would Not Buy WatchRider
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Aug 4, 2026

10.5 Best Watches Under $100,000 That I Would Not Buy

If you search for watch recommendations in 2026, you will inevitably run into a very annoying trend: watch influencers making “best watches under $1,000” lists of affordable watches that they have never even touched. They show stock photos or videos, they clearly do not own them and they have absolutely no intention of buying them, especially when their own personal collections are full of expensive pieces. At one point recently, I watched a video where an influencer actually recommended an affordable watch in a list and then immediately admitted that she/he didn’t even like it. I mean, seriously? My approach is going to be the exact opposite and I think a lot more realistic. Instead of pretending to love budget watches I do not own or like, I am going to look at the “best” expensive luxury watches and not necessarily hyped watches, but watches under $100,000 that I do not have the money to buy. But here is the catch: even if I had the cash sitting in my bank account tomorrow, I still would not buy them, just to follow the dumb trend! 1. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch The Moonwatch is a legend. It went to the moon. It has the best history of any chronograph, period. The latest Master Chronometer update is brilliant. In fact, if there is one watch on this entire list that I truly recommend, it is this one. Part of its charm is that because of the unique subdial layout and movement architecture, there are no good fakes that can accurately reproduce the pr...

Fratello On Air: Nick From DC Vintage Watches and Matt From SOTP Join The Show Fratello
Aug 4, 2026

Fratello On Air: Nick From DC Vintage Watches and Matt From SOTP Join The Show

Mike is taking a week off from the podcast, but that doesn’t mean you have to go without an episode. Instead of finding one guest to fill the gap, I figured, why not two? So this week, I sat down with Nick from DC Vintage Watches and Matt (one half of the Spirit of Time […] Visit Fratello On Air: Nick From DC Vintage Watches and Matt From SOTP Join The Show to read the full article.

Buying Guide - Refreshing Elegance, with Five Very Stylish Dress Watches Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava Still with the recent Aug 2, 2026

Buying Guide - Refreshing Elegance, with Five Very Stylish Dress Watches

Compact and elegant watches can be timeless for a reason. It’s almost always a case of less is more, or offering something uniquely creative without overdoing it. Naturally, most people’s first thought will go to icons such as the Cartier Tank or the Patek Philippe Calatrava. Still, with the recent resurgence in the popularity of dress […]

SJX Podcast: Second-Chance Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Jul 31, 2026

SJX Podcast: Second-Chance Watches

The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing. In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

One of the Smallest Automatic Rectangular Watches - Orient FNRAP004W0 WatchRider
Ming reliable Jul 30, 2026

One of the Smallest Automatic Rectangular Watches - Orient FNRAP004W0

Finding a truly small automatic watch is surprisingly difficult. Finding one in a refined, vintage-inspired “tank” (rectangular) silhouette is almost impossible in modern horology. That’s what makes the Orient FNRAP004W0 in rose gold such a special gem. Having owned and worn this piece for many years, I can confidently say it remains one of the most charming, reliable, and unique watches in my collection. The Secret in the Back Perhaps the most impressive feature is what you cannot see from the top. For me, the absolute standout feature of the Orient FNRAP004W0 is what happens when you take it off and flip it over. Most watchmakers assume that anyone wanting a small, dressy tank watch does not care about what is inside, usually opting to drop in a cheap, battery-powered quartz movement. Orient, true to its Japanese horological roots, took the harder path. Inside this tiny case beats an in-house Japanese automatic movement( Cal. 55742). The fact that Orient engineered a self-winding mechanical engine to fit inside such a slender, 11.95 mm-thick frame is a quiet flex of their watchmaking prowess.  Art Deco Charm While the technical feat under the hood earns respect from watch enthusiasts, the external design is what wins hearts on a daily basis:  The Warmth of Rose Gold: The rose gold-plated stainless steel case gives the watch an understated, warm elegance. It avoids the flashiness of yellow gold, making it easy to style whether you’re dressed up for an even...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Jul 29, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices

This week on The Business of Watches, we take stock at the halfway point of the year for watch auctions. Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas, Europe and Middle East, gives us his take on what's driving the interest of the top watch collectors these days. It's a pivotal time, with the watch auction market setting record sales results at most of the top auction houses despite global economic challenges and geopolitical tensions and conflicts.  Remi Guillemin at the rostrum in Geneva.Photo courtesy Christie's  The last time the market was this hot was in the post-COVID era of 2021 and 2022. Guillemin believes this time is different, and he tells us why references from F.P. Journe and Cartier, and (surprise!) pocket watches, are driving the market these days and how that's a fundamental shift from the hype watch driven boom post-pandemic. He also shows us some of the watches in his personal collection and reveals the grail he's still chasing.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes 0:36 Remi Guillemin (Christie's website - scroll for bio) 1:00 Auctions: The Five Result...