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Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.

Photographer Atom Moore Debuts “Second Nature” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Autodromo Nov 7, 2024

Photographer Atom Moore Debuts “Second Nature”

Taking photos of watches is hard. I’ve been trying for months to get better at it, and only occasionally do I end up with a photo that I think “works” in any meaningful way. The degree of difficulty in shooting these little objects is kind of off the charts. They are, of course, reflection machines, with light bouncing off of cases and crystals in ways that, for an amateur, can be difficult to control. And as any watch lover knows, the magic of this stuff is in the details, and it just takes a lot of skill to capture things that are so vanishingly small. So, I have a lot of respect and admiration for my colleagues and peers who make something so difficult look relatively straightforward. Atom Moore, for as long as I’ve been in the hobby, has been near the top of my and many other’s lists of top watch photographers in the game. His approach is completely unlike any other watch photographer I’m aware of, and the results, as they say, speak for themselves.  Atom, by now, has dedicated his career almost exclusively to watches. He’s been at it since 2015, and has worked with brands like Grand Seiko, Autodromo, and J.N. Shapiro. While some of his work with brands is what many of us in the industry would call “product photography,” it tends to be executed at a higher level. His photos for J.N. Shapiro’s Resurgence launch are a great example – the crisp macros reveal all of the detail you’d hope to see in Shapiro’s immaculately finished cases, dials, and...

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Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Sep 1, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 88 – An Unbelievable Collab, Pumpkin Spice Dials, and More!

On episode 88 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss takes you through several new and wild releases. Geneva Watch Days kicked off last week and with it, many cool things were announced. But that’s not all, as there were some surprise announcements too. There was a lot to cover from Armin Strom to Grand Seiko to Tudor. Check it out below. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, which has just added several awesome watches to its collection. From Hamilton, they’ve added the just released 33 and 38mm Khaki Field Quartz. Yes, 33mm just like the original Khaki fields. From Louis Erard is the new Metropolis Green, an art deco inspired collaboration with the Instagram famous @thehorophile. There’s also more from Casio, G-SHOCK, Laco, and others so head to windupwatchshop.com to check them out. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 88 – An Unbelievable Collab, Pumpkin Spice Dials, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko US exclusives Aug 18, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 87 – TAG Heuer Actually Made a Cool Watch and More!

On episode 87 of A Week in Watches, we take a look at a couple of new releases and then talk a bit about the state of the watch industry. First up are some sexy new Grand Seiko US exclusives with Kirazuri dials. After, we have the newest offering from TAG Heuer x Hodinkee, which revives a very cool old complication. Lastly, Zach Weiss gives his two cents on all of the gloomy news about the watch industry and whether or not it should matter to enthusiasts. Next week, the Windup Watch Shop is celebrating National Aviation Week with a focus on pilot watches of all types. From traditional fliegers to modern ana-digis, very affordable quartz to aspirational chronos, simple designs to complex functions, there’s something for everyone. So head over to Windupwatchshop.com starting August 19th and embrace your inner aviator! The post A Week in Watches Ep. 87 – TAG Heuer Actually Made a Cool Watch and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Limited Edition King Seiko KS1969 WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Aug 10, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Limited Edition King Seiko KS1969

The King Seiko KS1969 Limited Edition is a timeless tribute to Seiko’s heritage, reimagined for the modern era. What We Love: Like current Seiko models, this latest King Seiko gets a modern slimmed-down reinterpretation. The multiple polished finishes from the case, bezel, and dial elements to the bracelet! The greenish-blue colour combined with the dragon-scale pattern makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Not everyone may agree with the choice of dial colours for this collection from Seiko The movement needs to match the build quality and high level of finishing on the timepiece. It would’ve been great to get the date wheel to colour-match the new dial colours! Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 In July this year, Seiko unveiled a new series of King Seiko dress watches to revive a classic heritage design. Before we get into this latest creation, we first need to look at King Seiko and some of the signature designs that came with it. The name of King Seiko is just as important to Japanese watchmakers as the name and brand of Grand Seiko. The story goes that King Seiko was first launched in 1961 alongside Grand Seiko, who were direct competitors of each other. Seiko did this because of the brand’s relentless pursuit of perfection and quality, as the rivalry between King Seiko and Grand Seiko would produce some exceptional timepieces. The 1960s were seen as the golden era for Seiko, as the brand quickly...

First Look – The More Compact Seiko King Seiko KSK 36mm SPB457J1, SPB459J1 & SPB461J1 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Aug 7, 2024

First Look – The More Compact Seiko King Seiko KSK 36mm SPB457J1, SPB459J1 & SPB461J1

Seiko’s announcement in 2020 heralding the return of the long-slumbering King Seiko created a stir. As our readers will remember, Grand Seiko and King Seiko sub-brands were the result of an interesting experiment to promote competition between the Dani Seikosha (Grand Seiko) and Suwa Seikosha (King Seiko) watchmaking facilities. Pitched as internal rivals in the […]

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer in “Pogue” Colours SJX Watches
Grand Seiko First” Jul 24, 2024

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer in “Pogue” Colours

Affordable and powered by the sun, the Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC947 is dressed in the blue, red, and orange synonymous with the vintage “Pogue” chronograph. It’s not, however, a vintage re-issue but a modern take on a vintage design. “Pogue” refers to the vintage ref. 6139 that gets its name from astronaut William Pogue, who wore one during the Skylab 4 mission in 1973, making it the first automatic chronograph in space. Initial thoughts Seiko is expert at vintage re-issues at practically every price point, from the Seiko 5 Sports “Kamen Rider” to the Grand Seiko “First”. This isn’t the case for the SSC947, which mimics the Pogue’s colours but is otherwise a modern-day Prospex Speedtimer. That’s a good thing for everyone tired of historical remakes, although traditionalists might say the SSC947 doesn’t do justice to the original that’s something of a cult classic amongst Seiko enthusiasts. But the bottom line is, the SSC947 is an appealing, different alternative to the mostly conservative colours in the Prospex Speedtimer line. And it’s priced identically to earlier versions of the watch, so it offers the same value proposition. Dressed in the “Pogue” colour scheme The “Pogue” Featuring a two-tone red and blue tachymeter bezel, the SSC947 has a radially-brushed orange dial with brown sub-dials, just like its vintage inspiration. The flange around the dial is in dark brown to match the sub-dials. The specs are otherwise i...

Hands-On Impressions of the New Credor Locomotive Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Madison Avenue boutique Jun 7, 2024

Hands-On Impressions of the New Credor Locomotive

Walking into Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique last week, I was ready for a fun evening with great company. After all, that’s what you expect anytime you go to an event hosted by Complecto. What I wasn’t expecting was the opportunity to check out the latest and greatest from Credor, the recently relaunched Locomotive, just a day after its public launch. Timed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Credor, the revival of the Locomotive resurrects a long-dormant design from probably the most influential and well-known watch designer of the 20th century, Gerald Genta, and it more than lives up to both his name, and that of Credor. And speaking of names; when is a Seiko, not a Seiko? I admit, it’s a slightly odd question, but it bears asking. Seiko sells watches at just about every conceivable price point for every conceivable customer. But whether you’re picking up a Seiko for $79.94 on Amazon or a Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon for $350,000, every watch in the Seiko lineup will always have something in common - the word “Seiko” on the dial. It’s hard to think of another watch brand that not only sells watches at such dramatically different prices, but that doesn’t shy away from putting the same name on their entire collection. Sure, there are slight differences we learn to decode. Grand Seiko and Prospex elicit different reactions from collectors than Seiko 5 or Astron but, fundamentally, Seiko proudly declares just about every watch they make a Seiko. ...

#TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget Fratello
Grand Seiko vibe May 16, 2024

#TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget

It has wide, massive lugs, a Grand Seiko vibe, a mechanical hand-wound movement, a date with magnifier, and no lume, just the contrasting beauty of the sunburst dial and polished hands and indexes. Oh, and let’s not forget an attractive price tag. You might say these things make this Seiko Cronos Self Dater a perfect […] Visit #TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget to read the full article.

Credor Celebrates their 50th Anniversary with a New Limited Edition Eichi II in Yellow Gold Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko as Apr 30, 2024

Credor Celebrates their 50th Anniversary with a New Limited Edition Eichi II in Yellow Gold

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, the Japanese brand that is the highest end arm of the Seiko family. In recent years, Credor has taken something of a backseat to Grand Seiko, as the latter brand has grown in stature, with rising price points as well as the introduction of an honest to goodness Super Watch in the form of the Kodo. But a new release from Credor to celebrate their big anniversary serves as a reminder of why the brand is unique and important within the larger world of Seiko, and Japanese watchmaking in general. The Eichi II is Credor’s signature watch, highlighting everything the brand is most adept at. It features a porcelain dial made by a single artisan, and the complexity of its manufacture and strict tolerances for quality accepted by Credor apparently result in an exceptionally high failure rate. The result, however, is an uncommonly beautiful canvas for the hand painted markers that are this watch’s calling card. For this anniversary edition of the Eichi II, Credor has crafted a dial in dark blue, and the markers have been hand painted in gold. Upping the ante somewhat for this release, the Credor logo at 12:00 has also been hand painted, a first for an Eichi II. This is also the first time a yellow gold case has been made for an Eichi II.  Of course, another major draw of the highest end Credors is the immaculately finished movements made in the famed Micro Artist Studio. The Eichi II runs on the 7R14, a Spring Drive movement with a...

Introducing – Credor Celebrates its 50th Anniversary with the Blue/Gold Eichi II GBLT996 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Apr 25, 2024

Introducing – Credor Celebrates its 50th Anniversary with the Blue/Gold Eichi II GBLT996

While Grand Seiko is often regarded as the top-tier brand within the Seiko Group, there’s yet another hidden gem that’s not as easily available, not understandable, but equals (and sometimes surpasses) GS regarding complexity and attention to detail; Credor. Born in 1974, Credor gained international fame in the 2000s with the creation of highly complex […]

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a True Super Watch Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo I think Apr 24, 2024

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a True Super Watch

Each year at Watches & Wonders, we see a handful of novelties that I think can fairly be described as Super Watches. These are the truly audacious creations that are, effectively, out of reach for all but that 1% of the 1% that has the coin and the inclination to buy into something incredibly niche, that’s incredibly expensive, that (honestly) might be years away from actually being produced and successfully delivered. The Grand Seiko Kodo, I think, is a good example of a Super Watch. It stopped everyone in their tracks, had an eye watering price point, and was the ultimate artistic and mechanical expression of the brand that made it. This year had a few Super Watch candidates (including another Kodo) but I think the winner walking away was a watch from A. Lange & Söhne that took the radical step of combining all the things people love about the brand into one watch. A Super Watch, if you will.  The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” was easily my favorite watch name to say aloud during the show. When someone would ask me what my favorite watch of the week was (a question you’re asked about fifty times per day, minimum) I’d reflexively say “Oh, the Lange,” and then continue, probably looking skyward while counting out the watch’s cumbersome title on my fingers, like a school kid figuring out a math problem, “the Datograph, perpetual, tourbillon, lumen,” (I’d always screw it up here) “in honeygold!” I’d be really proud of myself f...

The Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date is One of the Best Named Watches and Coolest Under the Rader Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Options Around Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko comes Apr 1, 2024

The Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date is One of the Best Named Watches and Coolest Under the Rader Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Options Around

I have a small obsession with watch naming conventions. I’m absolutely fascinated by the decisions brands make in what to call their watches. Some brands, for example, use only reference numbers, and collectors wind up giving the most popular watches nicknames (Grand Seiko comes to mind, although last year saw a notable exception to the rule). Then there are countless brands that incorporate language of adventure, particularly on high seas, into watch names: the Submariner, the Supermarine, the Sea-Rambler, and on, and on, and on, and on. And of course there are brands that steal a strategy from car manufacturers (or is it the other way around?) and give their watches names in one of the Romance Languages, an attempt to instill a sense of class and taste. But what I like are the simple and punchy names that get right to the root of what the watch is about. Memorable, sometimes funny names that communicate an ethos and make you go, “Oh yeah, of course,” all at once. The Speake Marin Ripples is one of my all time favorites.  The Ripples is Speake Marin’s take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, a category that seems about as far afield as you might get from the brand’s roots, but that’s a story for another day. In my opinion, the Ripple is one of the most distinctive integrated bracelet designs to come on the scene in this recent period during which everyone under the sun has tried their hand at this type of watch. It belongs, I think, in the same conversat...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Next James Bond, Hermès Sued by California Shoppers, and the First Espresso in Space Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Under 38mm Mar 23, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Next James Bond, Hermès Sued by California Shoppers, and the First Espresso in Space

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Grand Seikos Under 38mm with Mark Cho  It’s no secret that we’re huge fans of Grand Seiko here at Worn & Wound, and as true enthusiasts for the brand, we feel like we can say with confidence that there are few in our space who are better advocates for Grand Seiko than Mark Cho. Cho has been retailing Grand Seiko through The Armoury for years, and has a great understanding of what makes these watches. He’s particularly enthusiastic about Grand Seiko’s more classic designs, inspired by vintage references and conservatively sized. In this video which went live recently on the Armoury’s YouTube channel, Cho takes us through as many “small” Grand Seikos as he can get his hand on, and reminds us that sometimes the best things really do come in small packages.  The First Espresso in Space   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by BREW WATCHES (@brewwatches) This one’s been shared around quite a bit already in the last week, but just in case you haven’t heard about what Brew recently got up to (way, way up) we thought we’d share it here as well. The Brew team rece...

Collector Profile: Andrew Benzer and His Prodigious “To Sell” Pile Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Mar 18, 2024

Collector Profile: Andrew Benzer and His Prodigious “To Sell” Pile

Andrew Benzer has around twenty or thirty watches he’d like to get rid of at any given time. The longtime reader and friend of Worn & Wound’s slough pile would form an impressive collection on its own, complete with grail watches like an Omega Speedmaster Professional. The watches he holds on to are even more varied and impressive. “I love watches, I love different kinds of watches,” said Andrew in an interview. “There is no other experience that’s akin to actually having something on your wrist for an extended period of time. And as a result, I have acquired probably more watches than most people would like to admit.” That collection is in the range of 60 to 70 watches and major names like Tudor, Omega, Zenith, and Grand Seiko, and smaller brands like Brew, Ming, and Halios. But like so many watch enthusiasts, for Andrew it all started with Timex and Seiko.    View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Andrew Benzer (@vintage1982benz) “My godfather gifted me a Timex for my first communion,” Andrew recalled. “And I remember just thinking it was the coolest thing in the world, it made me feel so grown up. I would wear it to school every day, I wore that thing until the plastic band basically disintegrated. And just from a very practical standpoint, I always thought a person should have a watch, you should know what time it is. This is in the 80s and 90s and well before smartphones and everything.” Timex led to Casio, Casio led to Fossil, and Fos...

A Quick Look At The New Seiko Presage Classic Series Two Broke Watch Snobs
Grand Seiko announced Mar 13, 2024

A Quick Look At The New Seiko Presage Classic Series

While I'm not one to usually find myself swooning over a new dress watch, I have to call out a nice release when I see it. The same thing happened when Grand Seiko announced the new SBGX355 ... drool. But now we're seeing something cool in a lower price tier from Seiko: the new Seiko Presage Classic series. I usually ignore the Presage collection outright (all that comes to mind are the Cocktail Time watches, which I can't stand). However, with these new Presage models, we see an interesting incorporation of Japanese culture into the design, and I can get behind it.

Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s titanium finishing Mar 12, 2024

Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium

Somehow, to this point, I’ve avoided taking a stand in the ongoing conversation in our ranks about the merits of titanium. Zach Weiss, our cofounder, is an unabashed fan, and confidently declares at every opportunity that all watches might as well be made of the stuff. Our friend Taylor Welden at Carryology takes it a step further, and said he’d happily eat little titanium chips if given the chance. No one’s titanium journey on this team has been more closely watched than Kat Shoulders’ though, who was first a skeptic, then an adopter, and now, well, her stance continues to evolve.  For my part, I guess I don’t have a strong opinion either way. I have nothing against titanium watches at all, and I’ve owned several, but it’s not, in general, a material I seek out. I think it’s because as a metal, it tends to not have the characteristics I like most. I like elaborate, complex case finishing, and a bit of weight. I tend to prefer steel’s glassy shine to titanium’s grays. There are exceptions, of course. Grand Seiko’s titanium finishing is notable in that it has many of the qualities of steel. And some watches just work better when they are feather light.  $11800 Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Case Titanium Movement El Primero 3600 Dial Gray Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Titanium bracelet Water Resistance 10 ATM Dimensions 41 x 46.8mm Thickness 13.6mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $11800 The new Chronomaster Sport f...

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Quartz Snobbery Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko 9F caliber I’ve since Feb 13, 2024

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Quartz Snobbery

Snob is a loaded, and sometimes divisive word in horology. Being called a snob, or calling someone a snob, is a quick way to draw blood by attacking someone’s particular approach to enthusiasm. As an enthusiast who cherishes the community aspect of this hobby, I’ve always been proud that my foundation in this hobby was built on the absence of snobbery. Or so I thought.  I’m a frugal guy, and enthusiasm on a budget is a common theme in most of my articles. A keen eye for value shaped my early days in the hobby- an approach I haven’t managed to shake. For years, I assumed that embracing watches in all price brackets was enough to rid myself of any snobbery.  But the more I “learned” about watches, the more I noticed snobbery seeping into my opinions, and in some cases stopping me from experiencing some truly awesome watches. I’d fawn over the latest Lorier release, only to question how a Hesalite crystal would hold up to an active lifestyle. Or I’d opt not to experience a 5 ATM field watch that I truly liked, instead compromising for 10 and 20 ATM alternatives. A quartz crystal, a small part of which is bound for a Grand Seiko 9F caliber I’ve since gone through an un-learning process thanks to a handful of watches that challenged what I thought I knew and allowed me to expand my horological horizons by kicking some snobby tendencies. For the next few installments of Selling Points That Don’t Sell Me, let’s explore some selling points that DO sell me a...

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Seiko Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jan 25, 2024

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Seiko

In this edition of Inside the Collection, Zach Weiss and Kat Shoulders examine what collecting Seiko has meant to them over the years. It’s a common collecting trope that Seiko is the gateway drug for many watch collectors just getting their start, and as you’ll see here that’s certainly the case for Zach and Kat. But Seiko also endures in both of their collections years later, and in surprising ways. There’s so much variety in the Seiko collection (going back decades) that it’s impossible to ever get bored of the brand, and there are always new things to discover beyond the familiar dive watches and entry level Seiko 5.  Zach Weiss  The greatest thing about Seiko watches, or the brand/company as a whole, is that no matter where you are in your collecting lifecycle, there is likely a watch that will appeal to you. From Seiko 5 to Prospex to Grand Seiko to Credor, there is something to find that will suit a taste, need, and budget. And to be clear, that doesn’t exclude a Credor customer from picking up a new Seiko 5 and vice versa. As a collector, that has kept them as a constant for me over the years. Starting with the Seiko 5 SNK field watches that one could pick up for a song a decade ago, then heading to vintage-styled Prospex divers, and now mining for oddities like the Seiko Sportura Kinetic Chronographs (not to mention Grand Seiko’s delights) there is simply always something for me to look for.  It’s quite dangerous as I often find myself bored wit...

Exhibition: Seiko Explores the Amusing and Avant-Garde with Power Design Project 2024 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s distincti Jan 22, 2024

Exhibition: Seiko Explores the Amusing and Avant-Garde with Power Design Project 2024

Seiko has just opened the latest installation of Power Design Project, the annual exhibition that invites watch designers to explore experimental ideas designs centred on a particular theme that diverge from their conventional designs, generating innovative concepts that might one day be incorporated into watches. This year’s exhibition is titled Incredibly Specialized Watches and serves as extension of last year’s event with a continued focus on avant-garde designs with a functional twist. One of this year’s creations is a sukiyaki timer that helps the wearer cook beef in the hotpot dish – complete with a Kobe beef-pattern strap. Originally conceived two decades ago and halted in 2009, Power Design Project was revived in 2022 to capitalise on the increased interest in Seiko’s diverse stable of timekeepers. Taking place at Seiko’s exhibition space in the trendy district of Harajuku, the 2024 exhibition takes place from January 19th to March 31st. For this year’s exhibition, Seiko recruited seven designers to create distinct perspectives on wristwatches, with each design meant to specialise in a specific timekeeping function. As a result, the exhibition features seven watch models, but each with in two different configurations of the dial, case, and strap, resulting in 14 different timepieces in total. The sukiyaki watch Consider the ambidextrous wristwatch concept created Seiko’s in-house designer Kento Ito. This watch epitomises Grand Seiko’s distincti...

The Affordable Seiko 5 “Field” Gains a GMT Function SJX Watches
Grand Seiko or Tudor Although setting Dec 13, 2023

The Affordable Seiko 5 “Field” Gains a GMT Function

Seiko has expanded its range of (very) reasonably priced sports watches with the Seiko 5 Sports Field Sports Style GMT. Available in stainless steel (SSK023) or black-coated steel (SSK025), it retains the military-inspired aesthetics of its time-only counterparts, while incorporating an additional hour hand showing a second time zone. Initial thoughts  The new models evoke a sense of familiarity with the “field” style dial and 24-hour markers, a longstanding design that’s been part of the Seiko 5 line-up for decades. But now the dial adopts a modern, utilitarian style, departing from the vintage-inspired aesthetic found in the time-only “field” models such as the SRPG35 and SRPJ85. And purists will appreciate the absence day-of-the-week display, with the dial having just the date. The black-on-black SSK025 achieves an almost ideal look for this type of watch. The near-monochromatic aesthetic creates an extremely satisfying contrast with the orange accents that brings to mind a fighter jet cockpit. The SSK025 Beyond the cosmetic changes, the new models are typical of Seiko’s entry-level GMT models. They are more accurately described as dual time zone watches with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than true GMT watches that feature an adjustable local-time hour hand, as seen in pricier watches from Grand Seiko or Tudor. Although setting the time for a second time zone involves a few additional steps, this represents an acceptable compromise consid...

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Dec 5, 2023

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen”

Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the  Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...

Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko manages Nov 30, 2023

Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps”

When it comes to deciding on a new watch, I know I think about all the usual suspects: build quality, fit and finish, movement, and most importantly (for me anyway) is the look. In my conversations with other enthusiasts, brand heritage has also come up. But what happens if you’re looking at brands who are not old enough to have years of heritage? Well, I would argue that it’s important to discern what that brand stands for – their ethos.  $1185 Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps” Case Stainless steel Movement Soprod Newton Dial Red Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 30 meters Dimensions 38 x 46.8mm Thickness 11mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $1185 Buci, established in 2022 out of Paris, has a soul that is super-charged with poetry. Brand owner Nousseïma Baraket is both a poet and avid reader of poetry, on top of being filled with a love for horology. If you stop to think about it, our passion for watches is not without romance and poetry. Afterall, we willingly wear some of the smallest engine turning ecosystems in the world on our wrists, knowing full well that time is kept better on our phones and computers. We don’t need them, but our lives are enriched by their presence.  At this point we all know that watches have different stories to tell. Studio Underd0g lets us know that we can have fun with our classic watch designs. Grand Seiko manages to capture the nuances of nature in their dials. Buci oversees the integrat...