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Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection

Holy trinity is a term that gets tossed around a fair bit. Its origins and usage are debated by some within the community, but I personally recognise the three holy trinity brands as the manufacturers who have had the longest, most prestigious and continuous production: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Lately, the marketplace … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Parmigiani Introduces the Tondagraph GT “Panda” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin where he designed Jun 1, 2021

Parmigiani Introduces the Tondagraph GT “Panda”

Parmigiani got on integrated-bracelet sports watch bandwagon last year with the launch of the Tonda GT, in both chronograph and three-hand formats. Like many of its luxury-sports watch peers, the Tonda GT was penned with the help of a (somewhat) famous designer, Dino Modolo, an industry veteran whose best known work comes from his time at Vacheron Constantin, where he designed the original Overseas. While the Tonda GT is arguably Parmigiani’s first bona fide sports watch, it is surprisingly good – stay tuned for a review soon – and now Parmigiani has unveiled a pair of Tondagraph GT chronographs with “panda” dials. Decorated with clou triangulaire guilloche, the silvered dials are matched with glossy black ceramic registers, elevating the retro “panda” to a new level. Somewhat confusingly, the Tondagraph GT will be available in steel with a modular movement featuring an annual calendar, or in 18k gold equipped with a pure-play, integrated chronograph movement that’s both high-frequency and finely constructed. Initial thoughts The Tonda GT has an appealing, original look that most crucially avoids looking derivative, an easy pitfall in the integrated-bracelet sports watch segment. And despite being one of the many such sports watches, the Tonda GT stands out with its own style that is inspired by Parmigiani’s dress watches, resulting in a look that’s best described as curious but attractive. The Tondagraph’s case and bracelet are neither angular nor ...

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Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mar 18, 2021

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands

Christie’s Education, the learning division of the auction house, has just launched Behind the Curtain: Watchmaking Houses, a series of virtual classes catered to beginner enthusiasts that profile the most important watch brands – essentially the names that are typically the most sought after at watch auctions. Conducted by Geneva-based watch expert Antoine Géraud, the weekly courses cover the history, important watches, and key personalities at Patek Phillipe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier. Each lecture is 75 minutes, and recordings of each session will be available for seven days after the class should participants wish to revisit. The programme is essentially a crash course, making it ideal for beginners who want to learn more about key brands. And the length of the lectures seems ideal – punchy and brief, but enough to convey the necessary knowledge. The Patek Philippe ref. 5101P 10 Day Tourbillon Alongside the watch history classes is a separate programme covering the biggest names in jewellery, taught by historian Vanessa Cron. Just like the watch classes, these will go into the stories behind names like Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, and Cartier. With jewellers often being watchmakers as well, burgeoning watch enthusiasts might find the jewellery classes useful too. An Audemars Piguet Grand Complication pocket watch that sold at Christie’s in 2019 The price of a single class is HK$1,200, or about US$150. The ...

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MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Mar 7, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection

The 1940s were peak years for twin register chronographs with some notable greats from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Lemania.  As the functional sports watches of that era, the typical twin register layout was balanced with a delicate design language and an often whimsical art-deco flourish to the graphics. In 2021, their intricate detail and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Uncommon Longevity – The Story of Golay Fils & Stahl of Geneva SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin producing or retailing highly Feb 17, 2020

Uncommon Longevity – The Story of Golay Fils & Stahl of Geneva

Auction catalogues often offer early 20th century pocket watches of impressive, refined quality that bear the names of unfamiliar Geneva firms. Amongst the most prominent are Agassiz, Ed. Koehn, Haas Neveux, and Touchon. Despite their obscurity now, these brands were once amongst the best in the world – arguably the equals of Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin, producing or retailing highly complicated and extra-thin timepieces. All of them, save for one, are now defunct and long forgotten. In fact, most went under long before the Quartz Crisis. A single name has survived and prospered while remaining a family business, by evolving its business over the centuries – Golay Fils & Stahl. A familiar name As an avid reader of auction catalogues, I had come across Golay Fils & Stahl on several occasions, and the name stayed with me because of the high quality of firm’s pocket watches (Haas Neveux being another). Then in November 2019, Phillips sold the Patek Philippe ref. 3652 minute-repeating wristwatch. Not only was the watch relatively recent, having been made in 1985, it was a unique reference powered by a reworked vintage movement – and signed “Golay Fils & Stahl” on the dial. Few retailers get their name on modern Patek Philippe watches, let alone a one-off, custom timepiece. It piqued my curiosity. The ref. 3652 – essentially a Calatrava ref. 96 minute repeater By sheer chance that curiosity was satisfied when Melissa Wolfgang Amenc got in touch after see...

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Interview: Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin where his last job Jan 3, 2020

Interview: Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith

In mid 2017, Julien Tornare, became chief executive at Zenith, maker of the famed El Primero chronograph. This came after a 17-year stint at Vacheron Constantin, where his last job was running the brand’s operations in Asia, its most important market by a large margin. At Zenith, Mr Tornare was called upon to revitalise a brand that had been drifting for some time. Zenith was clinging on too tightly to the past – namely the landmark El Primero – to the exclusion of everything else the brand had achieved. The diversification beyond the El Primero is exemplified by the Defy, a product crucial to the brand’s resurgence. The collection swiftly became a bestseller since its debut two years ago, but also boasts a milestone for the industry at large with the radical silicon oscillator in the Defy Inventor. The Defy Inventor During the El Primero 50th anniversary event that took place late last year in Singapore, I sat down with Mr Tornare to discuss his vision for Zenith, and how his start-up approach to running the brand has helped propel it into the new decade. The interview was edited for length and clarity. It has been two years since you took over at Zenith. Do you think you’re past the toughest part of the job? The toughest was probably at the beginning; getting the team on board with my vision was the most challenging. You can only develop a brand when you have everybody with you, and when you come from an entirely different brand, that takes some time. The firs...

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Highlights: A Patek Philippe Trio at Phillips’ New York Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas prototype Dec 6, 2019

Highlights: A Patek Philippe Trio at Phillips’ New York Auction

The final watch auctions of the year take place in New York, and as usual Phillips is staging a thematic sale. Titled Game Changers, the auction is made up of watches owned by game-changing celebrities like Marlon Brando and Jack Nicklaus, or timepieces that were game changers in the horological landscape, like the F.P. Journe Octa Reserve de Marche prototype. Also in the sale is a would-be game changer: the Vacheron Constantin Overseas prototype in titanium, not yet a game changer since it has not been put into production, but being the coolest Overseas to date, it probably will. And also worth a look is the vintage Heuer Monaco with a hand-finished movement that’s being sold for charity. But this article is about a handful of Patek Philippe watches, including the sale’s top lot, a ref. 1518 “pink on pink”, as well as a less expensive but more intriguing skeleton pocket watch with paillonnee enamel decoration. The ref. 899 pocket watch decorated with blue enamel and paillons Lot 38 – Patek Philippe ref. 530 chronograph The ref. 530 is a desirable model because it’s oversized for a vintage watch – the case is 36.5mm in diameter – giving it proportions that are quite modern. And the ref. 530 is rare, although a several examples have come up at recent auctions. They sold for moderate prices, for varying reasons and perhaps a general market softness, so this one might be a chance to land a ref. 530 for a reasonable price. This example is attractive. The dial ...

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Vintage Vacheron with a two-year warranty hit the Melbourne boutique for a short time, and until sold out Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin boutique Nov 21, 2019

Vintage Vacheron with a two-year warranty hit the Melbourne boutique for a short time, and until sold out

What a time to be alive for Melbourne watch lovers. The embarrassment of riches in terms of local brand boutiques has had another glittering jewel added to the CBD war chest as T+T welcomed guests to an evening at the brand new Vacheron Constantin boutique at the ‘Paris end’ of Collins Street. Last night we … ContinuedThe post Vintage Vacheron with a two-year warranty hit the Melbourne boutique for a short time, and until sold out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction – Complications and Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin minute repeater pictured above Nov 18, 2019

Highlights: Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction – Complications and Enamel

Happening in just over a week, the Phillips Hong Kong watch auction is a 321-lot event spread over two days. Notably, the first session is an evening sale titled First, made up of 52 watches consigned by their original owners. The offerings in First, as well as the main sale the next day, are diverse array ranging from a possibly unique Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon with a black dial, and a wonderfully elegant Vacheron Constantin minute repeater (pictured above) – both consigned by the first owners no less – to vintage sports Rolex watches and Omega Speedmasters. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002G Another original owner Patek Philippe grand complication, the ref. 5033P Here we cover some of the complicated watch highlights, while other vintage and sports watches will be featured in a subsequent article. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. First, lot 833 – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph One of the best values in the segment of perpetual calendar chronographs is a pre-owned Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This example is in platinum, with a largish 43mm case that is suited to today’s taste for larger watches. The layout is traditional for a perpetual calendar chronograph, though the calendar windows are slightly small relative to the size of the dial. But this has a decorative flourish few of its peers have: the moon phase is a hand-engraved disc of white gold that features a tiny...

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Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 05 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Piaget Polo S Sep 4, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 05

Luxury sports watches in steel with distinctive case shapes and integrated bracelets have been an unstoppable trend of late. Though the segment was born in the 1970s with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and then Patek Philippe Nautilus, it’s arguably at the high-water mark now. Several brands have joined the party with their own luxury sport watches, each designed with a different impetus, but often met with a certain degree of controversy. Recent examples include the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Piaget Polo S, and Girard-Perregaux Laureato. And now, it’s the turn of Bell & Ross (B&R;) with the BR 05. Unsurprisingly, the BR 05 is a riff on the most iconic Bell & Ross design – the circle-within-a-square case. The BR 05 enters a crowded segment in both an affordable manner; it’s kitted out with a well-constructed case and customised movement for under US$5000. An unmistakable form At first glance, the rounded-square case and bezel with visible screws inevitably brings to mind Gerald Genta’s classics. But on its own, the BR 05 is a logical derivative of the signature B&R; case. The BR 05 is a compact watch, with a wide bezel making it look slightly smaller than it actually is. The case measures 40mm across and 10.4mm in height, which is relatively slim and within the general ballpark of such watches. That being said, a case below 10mm would have given it more elegant and classical proportions. And in contrast to the merely adequate depth rating of the ...

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Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet Unveil Watches for Singapore Charity SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Aug 11, 2019

Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet Unveil Watches for Singapore Charity

As has become a tradition for Singapore children’s charity Kidz Horizon Appeal, its annual fundraising dinner will include an auction of one of a kind watches created especially for the event. Past auctions included timepieces by Audemars Piguet, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin and Voutilainen. This year’s line-up is made up of three watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, and Louis Moinet, the proceeds from which will go to the charity that funds medical treatment for children from poor families. Inspired by the colours of the Greek island, the Franck Muller Vanguard Mykonos (also pictured above) is the first watch from a limited edition of 28 made for the brand’s retailer Sincere Watch, which donated the watch to Kidz Horizon. It’s a variant of Frank Muller’s popular sports watch, with a polished steel case that has an integrated strap and a white resin insert running lengthwise along its side. Inside is the FM 0800, an automatic ETA movement.  Vanguard Mykonos Commissioned by an anonymous donor, Roger Dubuis put together the Excalibur Huracàn “Kidz Horizon”, based on the wristwatch inspired by Lamborghini’s V10 coupe. Ordinarily available only with a titanium case, the Kidz Horizon edition has a case made from a combination of lightweight materials: titanium for the bezel and back, and a skeletonised case middle in C-SMC carbon – the same carbon composite used in the Huracan. The red accents on the dial and bezel are also unique to ...

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LIST: 5 of the best heritage reissues… ever Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historique Cornes … ContinuedThe Aug 25, 2017

LIST: 5 of the best heritage reissues… ever

Heritage reissues are hot and don’t seem to be cooling off any time soon. But as more and more brands jump on the retro train, the ratio of filler to thriller is becoming increasingly unbalanced. So we’ve put together some of the all-time greats – five cracking examples of retro done right. Vacheron Constantin Historique Cornes … ContinuedThe post LIST: 5 of the best heritage reissues… ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: We took the VC Overseas collection to an island paradise and It. Was. Glorious. Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection? I would Oct 12, 2016

VIDEO: We took the VC Overseas collection to an island paradise and It. Was. Glorious.

Was it really necessary? To take a journey involving two flights (one of them aboard a very small plane) to a tropical island somewhere between Sydney and New Zealand that, at any given time, has a maximum of 750 people on it to test out the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection? I would argue that, because Lord Howe … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: We took the VC Overseas collection to an island paradise and It. Was. Glorious. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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