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A New Twist on the Ocean Inspired Dive Watch LE from Zenith and Topper Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko dial textures – it’s Dec 15, 2025

A New Twist on the Ocean Inspired Dive Watch LE from Zenith and Topper

The last few weeks of the year are usually pretty quiet on the new release front, but there have been a handful of last minute limited editions come across the wires recently that are definitely of at least some interest. We just brought you news of a new Doxa LE from our friends at Topper Jewelers in Burlingame, CA, and in what amounts to an insanely quick turnaround, they’re back again with what surely has to be their final release of the year, a new collaboration with Zenith. This watch does one of my favorite things a watch can do, which is to completely hide its coolest feature most of the time, only allowing it to be visible under very specific conditions. It’s the same reason I love the less obvious and more subtle Grand Seiko dial textures – it’s the watch equivalent of a secret handshake.  The Defy Extreme Diver Topper Edition is built on Zenith’s contemporary diver platform, an overengineered, 600 meter diver in the Defy line. Zenith has done a nice job of building out their diver selections in the last year or so, almost to the point where it’s hard to believe that they went so long without a true diver in the collection. At the moment,  enthusiasts have the choice between the Defy Extreme Diver like the one seen here, or an only slightly more sedate “Revival” diver that’s essentially a one to one recreation of a vintage reference. The shared DNA between the two is obvious, and the way Zenith has positioned these watches within their own cata...

Hands-On: the Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm – One of the Biggest Surprises of 2025 Worn & Wound
Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm Dec 11, 2025

Hands-On: the Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm – One of the Biggest Surprises of 2025

It’s pretty uncommon for a watch line to maintain top-of-mind relevance with the watch community for more than a couple of years. Trends change, the hype spotlight shifts, and newness becomes necessary. We’ve seen brands try to push watches past their expiration points, resulting in diminished excitement and inevitably disappointing. With that said, one line that has endured far longer than I would have expected and is still going strong is the Tissot PRX. Launched in 2021, the PRX was an early entry into the affordable integrated sports watch category, which has also lasted longer than I would have bet. Yet despite being “several” years old, Tissot continues to surprise with updates to the PRX line, keeping it genuinely exciting. Smartly, they haven’t just used it as a throwback line, but rather to experiment with materials that typically come with a higher price tag. Notably, last year they made a forged carbon-fiber version that was lightweight and stealthy. While a material that had come downstream, so to speak, in the years prior, it was still unexpected from Tissot. But 2025’s entry wasn’t just surprising for Tissot; it was surprising for any large-scale brand, especially an affordable one. If you told me I’d be wearing a Damascus steel Tissot that cost $1,175 a few years ago, I would have said, “shut your face!” Just kidding, but I would have been immensely skeptical. An artisanal material, often seen in knife making, it’s scarcely used in watc...

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike SJX Watches
Chopard L.U.C Grand Strike Dec 11, 2025

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike

The 30th anniversary of the Chopard L.U.C. manufacture was one anniversary among many this year, but it will likely be remembered thanks to the Grand Strike, the most complicated watch in Chopard’s history and its first grande sonnerie. Building on the successful Full Strike minute repeater architecture and making full use of the brand’s patented sapphire gongs, the Grand Strike is a chronometer-certified two-train clock watch with a push-button minute repeater. In this context, the presence of the tourbillon is almost a footnote. Initial thoughts I can count on one hand the number of brands that have created their own grande sonnerie wristwatch. It’s one of the few things in watchmaking that’s proven challenging enough to still be rare, even in the days of computer-aided design (CAD) and advanced manufacturing technology like wire erosion. For this reason, the grande sonnerie has a towering cultural presence among watchmakers and collectors, looming above all other complications. For Chopard, the Grand Strike represents the culmination of 30 years of the L.U.C. manufacture, the brand’s haute horlogerie division. The first impression of the Grand Strike is one of extraordinary depth. There’s not much of a dial, save for the minutes scale etched on the inside of the sapphire crystal, and the small concentric sub-dials for the dual power reserve displays. This depth shrinks the watch visually, and it feels dense and compact despite its rather large 43 mm size and...

What is a Quartz Watch? Everything You Need to Know Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 10, 2025

What is a Quartz Watch? Everything You Need to Know

The advent of the quartz watch was the most disastrous event ever to befall the traditional luxury watch business, an existential threat that nearly toppled the watch industry as we know it. The invention of the quartz watch was among the most significant advances in the history of timekeeping and brought affordable wristwatches to the masses in a way that had never been seen before. These are the two main schools of thoughts on what the quartz watch has meant to the history of watchmaking, and both are essentially correct. As you contemplate whether to purchase a quartz watch, ponder the main differences between quartz and mechanical movements, and try to wrap your head around the various types of timekeeping technologies, let’s explore how quartz watches originated, how they evolved, and what their place is in today’s ever-changing watch world.  [toc-section heading="Quartz Movements Explained"] Unlike a mechanical movement, which stores its energy in a wound mainspring inside a barrel and releases it through a complex series of gears to move the hands, a quartz movement derives its power from a small electrical charge provided by a battery, which then passes through an integrated circuit that applies the charge to a tiny quartz crystal cut into the shape of a tuning fork. Thanks to something known as the reverse-piezoelectric effect, that tiny charge applied to the quartz tuning fork crystal causes it to vibrate at an incredibly high rate that dwarfs the output of ...

How Tight Should A Watch Be? Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 7, 2025

How Tight Should A Watch Be?

In the watch enthusiast community, we often find ourselves wading deep into the weeds of the most minute details. Typically, this concerns the mechanical inner workings of watches, whether a date window throws off visual harmony, or if the price of a watch is really justified. But as much nuance as there is in choosing a watch to add to your collection, so too is there nuance in getting that just-right fit on your own wrist.  We’ve recently dove into the deep end on the subject of how to actually wear a watch, and today, I’m charting a similar, yet deceptively simpler path: how to decide how tight your watch should be. This is more geared towards those folks out there who are just getting their hands on their first watch and need a little guidance before making any rash, link-related decisions. God forbid you’re facing a rubber strap that you’ll be cutting yourself. Down below, I’ll be sharing some quick and fast tips for finding the right fit for the watches in your collection, and some less obvious tips to consider before you go on your merry way.  [toc-section heading="Telltale Signs Your Watch Is Too Tight"]  First and foremost, your watch is not a tourniquet. If you feel any lightheadedness, numbness, or tingling, remove the offending piece from your wrist expeditiously.  Image: WatchUSeek Forum On a less dramatic note, comfort is your guiding light. Ideally, we want our watches to feel like an extension of ourselves, not an uncomfortable obtrusion. The...

In-Depth: The Mysterious Double-Movement Patek Philippe Pocket Watches SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Pocket Watches Sotheby’s upcoming Dec 6, 2025

In-Depth: The Mysterious Double-Movement Patek Philippe Pocket Watches

Sotheby’s upcoming auction in New York brings to light a pair of remarkable Patek Philippe pocket watches with double movements once owned by John Motley Morehead III (1870-1965), an American patron of the brand with exotic taste. Unknown even to Patek Philippe until now, the two watches each include a primary minute repeating base movement with a secondary movement under charismatic doré dials. Beyond their intrinsic rarity, the golden duo are significant from a historical perspective in offering a portal into early 20th-century American watch collecting, when interest began to shift from decorative to technical. The who A chemist who helped form Union Carbide, Morehead seems to have had a penchant for unusual, highly complicated watches. He also owned a triple complication with upside down “American” perpetual calendar, carillon minute repeater, and a double chronograph (as in, two separate chronographs) as well as a rattrapante but with only two seconds hands. The excellent research by Sotheby’s uncovered record of another of Morehead’s watches that was a carillon repeater with two sets of hands, like these watches, but powered by only one movement. Both double-movement watches going on the block at Sotheby’s have a primary movement with minute repeating on the back and a secondary simple movement on the front. The smaller of the two makes do with just a minute repeating base movement, while the larger watch also has a split-seconds chronograph with a minut...

Owner’s Perspective: Seiko 5 Sports SKX SRPL87K In The Vibrant Yellow Dial WatchAdvice
Seiko 5 Sports SKX SRPL87K Dec 5, 2025

Owner’s Perspective: Seiko 5 Sports SKX SRPL87K In The Vibrant Yellow Dial

A bright yellow Seiko that reminds you that watches are meant to be fun. They don’t all have to be technical and serious, just pure enjoyment on the wrist! This is my story with the SRPL87K. What We Love The mango-yellow dial brings instant personality and fun to any outfit. It’s an easy grab-and-go mechanical watch you never have to think twice about. The 5-link bracelet upgrade elevates the whole look far more than expected. What We Don’t The lume is good, but not as strong as some other Seiko models. 100m water resistance is fine, but 200m would’ve felt closer to classic SKX DNA. No bracelet option for the yellow dial out of the box — a missed opportunity given how good it looks on one. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 There’s something about Seiko’s SKX range that leaves an impression on you. Even if you never owned the original model, the SKX collection of modern is the entry-level diver and the perfect canvas for those who love to mod their timepieces. It is the watch that turned a lot of casual wearers into full enthusiasts! While Seiko may have closed the chapter on the original SKX line many years ago, the spirit of the collection certainly didn’t disappear. There have been many modern iterations in Seiko’s current collections that have been inspired by SKX models of the past, each carrying hints of the familiar dive watch DNA: the practicality, the simplicity, everyday toughnes...

The Most Durable Watches: What Are The Toughest Timepieces? Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 4, 2025

The Most Durable Watches: What Are The Toughest Timepieces?

While it’s all fine and dandy to get into the weeds of watches with the most complications, the most intricate hand-finished details, or precious metal construction, sometimes, you’re just looking for a watch that can take a beating. With that theme in mind, I’ve rounded up some of the most durable watches on the market today that you can wear confidently on your next adventure without fear of your wrist companion wimping out on you. I can’t, obviously, include every single durable watch out there, but down below, I’ve gathered durable watches with a great range of utility, style, and price point to get you started. And away we go… [toc-section heading="G-SHOCK Mudmaster Master of G-Land"] Case: 52.1mm Material: Resin and Steel Water Resistance: 200 meters Movement: Quartz Price: $880 I find it helpful on lists like this to begin with the most obvious. G-SHOCK is always the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about durable watches. I mean, the brand was created entirely with toughness in mind. Several pieces and sub-collections in the G-SHOCK universe would fit the bill, but I’m going to go with its Mudmaster line here. Another one to consider is the GX56BB-1, which has gotten the nickname “The King Of G-SHOCKs” and is shock-resistant from every angle.  Made with mud-resistance and shock-resistance in mind, the Mudmaster Master Of G-Land collection is G-SHOCK’s most tactical line. If you plan on navigating the most extreme of terrains, this i...

Introducing – The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, the Next Chapter in Sound and Substance Monochrome
Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 Dec 1, 2025

Introducing – The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, the Next Chapter in Sound and Substance

As part of its 250th anniversary celebrations, Breguet closed the year with a grande finale, the Experimental 1 and its innovative magnetic escapement. But there was one more watch as part of the celebratory collection… The Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, a new limited-edition minute repeater rooted in the brand’s heritage while pointing firmly to its […]

Breguet Reimagines the Classic Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Reimagines Dec 1, 2025

Breguet Reimagines the Classic Répétition Minutes

Along with the flagship Classique Grande Sonnerie Métiers d’Art 1905 pocket watch, Breguet just announced its first water-resistant minute repeater, the Classique Répétition Minutes 7365. While this 250th anniversary edition with a Breguet gold case and Bleu de France grand feu enamel dial is limited to 25 examples, it likely represents the future of the brand’s chiming watches: smaller and more robust. Initial Thoughts Despite the strong popularity chiming watches have seen at the high end for many years, it has felt like something of a weak point for Breguet, reliant on rather old movements that didn’t always sound the best. The ambitious and wild Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087 promised to fix this in 2018, but for unknown reasons that watch never made it to market. However, acoustically Breguet’s repeaters have become quite good despite the old bones, proving how key gongs and case construction are to repeaters. The 7087 doubles down on this approach, not even introducing a silent centrifugal governor which has become ubiquitous in modern chiming watches, even at the high end – the sound of which I’ve come to find quaint. The move to smaller sizes, 42 mm to 39 might be more dictated by market trends rather than any specific vision from the brand, but is one I appreciate either way, and while water resistance isn’t strictly necessary in a chiming watch, the peace of mind is reassuring. In the end, this watch comes down to how much you lik...

Hands-On With The New Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie Fratello
Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie When Nov 24, 2025

Hands-On With The New Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie

When you think of Blancpain, you probably see a mental image of the Fifty Fathoms, Bathyscaphe, or perhaps even a Villeret model. At least, those were the watches I had in mind when the folks at Blancpain invited us over to Le Brassus and see their latest creation a few weeks ago. This video is […] Visit Hands-On With The New Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie to read the full article.

In-Depth: Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie SJX Watches
Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie Blancpain Nov 24, 2025

In-Depth: Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie

Blancpain has just unveiled its most complex modern-day watch, the Grande Double Sonnerie, to mark its 190th anniversary. This CHF1.7 million grand complication signals Blancpain’s return to the highest tier of haute horlogerie. One of the most technically ambitious chiming wristwatches ever made, the Grande Double Sonnerie incorporates traditional complications: grande and petite sonnerie, minute repeater, flying tourbillon, and retrograde perpetual calendar, but also offers an unexpected twist with two distinct chiming melodies, a Westminster chime plus a a bespoke sequence composed for Blancpain by Eric Singer of rock band Kiss. Initial thoughts It has been some time since Blancpain unveiled a truly headline-grabbing complication. The manufacture made its name in this arena with the 1735 of 1991, but in the decades since, its output has leaned toward more conventional high-end offerings - perpetual calendars, tourbillons, carrousels, and chiming watches - while its commercial momentum has come largely from the Fifty Fathoms and Villeret triple calendar. The unexpected Grande Double Sonnerie is therefore a reminder of what Blancpain can do at the very top level of watchmaking. The Le Brassus-based manufacture tends to be overlooked when speaking of high horology today, but the Grande Double Sonnerie should remind enthusiasts how sure-footed Blancpain is in this regard. Even before considering the many complexities of the timepiece, the watch impresses from the fir...

Introducing: The New Atelier Wen × Revolution Ancestra Yáo Fratello
Atelier Wen Nov 23, 2025

Introducing: The New Atelier Wen × Revolution Ancestra Yáo

Atelier Wen has spent the last few years building a very different picture of Chinese watchmaking. After the recent launch of its flagship Inflection collection, the brand has shifted attention back to the Ancestra line, which was always meant to serve as the more artisanal counterpoint. That timing feels deliberate. The Inflection models reintroduced Atelier […] Visit Introducing: The New Atelier Wen × Revolution Ancestra Yáo to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Introduces a Monaco Inspired by F1 Races Held Under the Lights Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Nov 20, 2025

TAG Heuer Introduces a Monaco Inspired by F1 Races Held Under the Lights

For the second time this week, TAG Heuer has introduced a rather audacious Monaco. Yesterday we told you about the all new Air 1, a flagship of sorts that puts all of TAG’s resources to bear on a split second chronograph with no compromises. Today, TAG debuts a Monaco that’s a bit more accessible but no less specialized, a watch that is meant for F1 fans celebrating the unique experience of the circuit’s night races. Even a casual F1 observer (I count myself in this category) can appreciate the spectacle of a night race. It’s a very different aesthetic experience than a race run during daylight hours, and the new limited edition Monaco seen here really leans into that night race vibe with some dramatic applications of color throughout. To start, it’s built on a 39mm titanium case that has been DLC coated, and given a skeletonized dial treatment that we’ve seen from a bunch of earlier Monaco limited editions at this point. Where this watch really sets itself apart though a gradient effect that is layered throughout the dial and unique lume application.  Multiple lume colors are employed to draw the eye to either the chronograph or time telling functions, depending use case. The chronograph totalizers at 3 and 9 are rendered in blue, with turquoise hands, while green glowing lume is found on the primary hour and minute hands. There’s also additional purple lume throughout the minute track, and the bridges themselves have been given a gradient effect that range...

Chopard’s Striking Vision Fully Realised – L.U.C Grand Strike SJX Watches
Chopard s Striking Vision Fully Nov 19, 2025

Chopard’s Striking Vision Fully Realised – L.U.C Grand Strike

Chopard marks 30 years of the Chopard Manufacture with the L.U.C Grand Strike – its most ambitious complication to date, a minute repeating clock watch with grande et petite sonnerie striking on a pair of sapphire gongs. This comes on the heels of Chopard’s sister brand, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3, making 2025 arguably the most significant year for Chopard, product wise, since the 1997 launch of L.U.C. Initial Thoughts For hundreds of years the sound of clocks coordinated human society. In fact, the very word “clock” comes from the Latin word clocca, meaning bell. Before the noise pollution of the modern day, the bells of clock towers could disseminate accurate time over several miles. It is only that many first complicated the first watches, which were made by clock makers during the 16th century, were equipped with strikes. In 2016 Chopard launched its first self-developed chiming watch, the L.U.C Full Strike, a two-train trip repeater with sapphire gongs. It is not much of a surprise, I’ve multiple people speculate that a grande sonnerie was the next step given the design depictions Chopard made with the Full Strike. Even the name, “Full Strike” sounds like the name of a grande sonnerie, not just a repeater. The Grand Strike is class leading technically, it’s only weakness, the middling strike work power reserve is easily forgiven when considering its size. Aesthetically, however, the watch struggles, at least for me, though the si...

Highlights: Magnificent Matched Sets at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Nov 19, 2025

Highlights: Magnificent Matched Sets at Phillips Hong Kong

Matching sets are a motif of Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, with the most spectacular being the Concord Saratoga Splendour, a set of four minute repeating, high jewellery wristwatches representing the four precious stones – diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald – each with a distinct movement made by Christophe Claret. Also on offer is a set of three watches from Glashütte Original with Meissen porcelain dials, and a Patek Philippe Pagoda quartet. Lot 857, a matching pair of Bovets depicting Hong Kong harbour by day and by night. Image – Phillips Such sets enjoyed popularity at the top end of the market during the 1980s and 1990s, often centred around the four precious coloured stones, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. Perhaps the ultimate example of the matched set is the most complicated Patek Philippe watch, the Calibre 89, that was originally launched as a set of four in yellow, rose, and white gold, and platinum. Unfortunately, many of these sets have since been split up. Can these three escape that fate? Lots 858 to 862 – Concord Saratoga Splendour Set Concord was one of a few brands that saw great, but ephemeral, success during the 1980s and 1990s, in the same vein as Gerald Genta, Ebel, and Corum. In 1995 Concord launched the Saratoga Exor, a minute repeating tourbillon with perpetual calendar and bimetallic thermometer, set with 15.85 carats of baguette diamonds. With a price tag of CHF2 million, it was probably the second most expensive w...

In-Depth – Chopard Launches a Splendid Grande Sonnerie Watch, the L.U.C Grand Strike Monochrome
Chopard Launches Nov 19, 2025

In-Depth – Chopard Launches a Splendid Grande Sonnerie Watch, the L.U.C Grand Strike

On the occasion of Dubai Watch Week 2025, Chopard unveils the L.U.C Grand Strike, the brand’s most complex watch to date, with a Grande Sonnerie, a Petite Sonnerie, a Minute Repeater and a tourbillon regulator. Just like the brand’s Full Strike minute repeater, its acoustic merits are nothing short of extraordinary, in particular thanks to […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Tudor Watches Fratello
Tudor Watches Another Friday another Nov 14, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Tudor Watches

Another Friday, another list! The end of the year is almost in sight, and with that in mind, we will soon start our series of best-of lists for 2025. One of the brands that had a relatively quiet year compared to previous ones was Tudor. During Watches and Wonders, the brand presented some solid additions […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Tudor Watches to read the full article.

Report: Geneva Fall Auctions 2025 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3424/1 “Gilbert Albert” Nov 11, 2025

Report: Geneva Fall Auctions 2025

The just-concluded Geneva auction season was mostly a plateau with several striking peaks and a few lows. The peaks were marked by desirable timepieces that outperformed by far, yet shared little in common with one another in terms of style or period. The peaks ranged from multiple F.P. Journe watches to a diamond-set Patek Philippe ref. 3424/1 “Gilbert Albert” to the Breguet four-minute tourbillon pocket watch from 1809 to the Instagram-ready Patek Philippe ref. 3970 in “salmon” with Breguet numerals. Despite such diverse taste, the small pool of bidders seemed to have one thing in common: they were all focused on a “trophy” watch. The Christie’s saleroom in the Four Seasons. Image – Christie’s With few exceptions, contemporary watches from mainstream brands were cold, while vintage watches were mostly lukewarm – but as always there were exceptions. An Patek Philippe ref. 570 with a black dial signed “E. Gubelin” sold for an impressive CHF419,100 including fees, or US$523,000, at Christie’s, while Phillips sold a Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 “RCO” (or “Oyster Sotto”) for an equally impressive CHF1.39 million, or US$1.73 million – close to the historical peak for the model. A vintage watch that surprised on the downside was the 1927 Rolex Oyster worn by Mercedes Gleitze when she became the first woman to swim the English Channel in 1927 – a landmark in Rolex lore. Though it sold for CHF1.39 million, or US$1.74 million, there was just one bi...

The Best Rolex Blue Dial Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Nov 1, 2025

The Best Rolex Blue Dial Watches

When you think of Rolex, the first colors your mind usually conjures up are green and gold, long the emblematic colors of the Swiss power brand and its world-famous “crown” logo. (Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf is said to have settled on these colors because they symbolized wealth and success.) Blue, on the other hand, is not a color that most watch aficionados readily associate with Rolex, though many will associate it with other watch brands, like Breguet, Breitling, and Rolex’s own little brother, Tudor. However, when Rolex does decide to do blue - whether it’s for dials, bezels, or some combination of both - it does so in a way that really speaks to the brand’s avid fan base. Over the years, some blue-dialed Rolex watches, in fact, are not only popular but have become recognized as classics. Here are seven Rolexes with blue dials - some discontinued and collectible, others still available in the current collection - that have demanded enthusiast attention. (Price estimates for the discontinued models on the list are courtesy of WatchCharts.) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41, Ref. 126334 ($11,100) Rolex released the Datejust in 1945, and the model is today regarded as one of the world’s most classically elegant dress watches. The Datejust brought two now-familiar elements to the world of watch design, one of which can be found throughout the watch industry, the other being still closely associated with Rolex. The first was the addition of a date disp...

Complicated Collectors: Thomas Engel SJX Watches
Breguet Thoughts Oct 30, 2025

Complicated Collectors: Thomas Engel

Every great collection is a reflection of its owner. In the case of Thomas Engel (1927-2015), the imprint is unmistakable; the mind of an inventor, the discipline of a scientist, and the independence of a man who built his fortune by intuition and sheer will. Engel lived through war, displacement, and postwar scarcity, only to reinvent himself in the 1950s as a pioneer of polymer chemistry. By the time he turned to horology, he had already registered more than a hundred patents, licensed his inventions to multinational firms, and been hailed as a ‘modern Edison.’ The story that follows is drawn from Engel’s own accounts, above all his two books - Breguet: Thoughts on Time and Ein Moderner Thomas Edison - which preserve his memories, methods, and reflections. They allow his voice to guide the narrative, from his earliest mistakes to his most celebrated acquisitions, and from his inventions in plastics to his interpretation of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s works. Engel brought to collecting the same qualities that had defined his scientific career: a commitment to verification, a reliance on systematic method, and an instinct for invention. Each watch he acquired was studied as an instrument, its mechanism understood and its history traced. To hold a Breguet, for Engel, was to engage in dialogue with a fellow inventor across centuries. The man Thomas Paul Engel was born in Leipzig in 1927, amid the uneasy calm between wars. His father, a textile merchant dealing in fin...

Introducing – The New, More Compact, Still Fascinating Hautlence Sphere Series 3 Monochrome
Hautlence Sphere Series 3 After Oct 27, 2025

Introducing – The New, More Compact, Still Fascinating Hautlence Sphere Series 3

After its comeback in 2022, Hautlence (an anagram of Neuchâtel) doubled down on unconventional time displays with the Sphere Series 1, followed by the darker Sphere Series 2, both pairing a multi-axis spherical jumping hour with a retrograde minute. Those watches reintroduced the brand’s TV-screen silhouette and reminded collectors why Hautlence sits in the front […]

Credor Watches: Japan's Answer To Switzerland's Best Teddy Baldassarre
Credor Oct 23, 2025

Credor Watches: Japan's Answer To Switzerland's Best

Similar to Switzerland at the heart of Europe, Japan has a hierarchy of complexity in its watches, with brands like Grand Seiko often being the first to come to mind in the luxury segment. However, just like the artistic free spirits from Switzerland who uphold centuries-old principles of the craft, there is a brand with tremendous mystique that is quickly emerging as a name to be reckoned with. It simply goes by the name, Credor. A Brief History of Credor Watches Much like Grand Seiko, Credor was born as a luxury offshoot of Seiko, established in 1974 to produce precious metal watches under the "Crêt D'or" name, which translates from French as “pinnacle of gold”. The name evolved to “Credor” in the 1980s, which saw the introduction of the brand's triple-peaked logo capped by three stars. It remained as a co-brand with Seiko on watch dials throughout the ‘90s, was sold mainly in Japan, and appeared on watches that combined luxury with sport, along with select jewelry pieces.  The focus on both kinds of watches –  the luxury-sport and the jewelry – had one distinct commonality: a specific focus on design with a bent toward capturing a certain opulent fervor of the 1980s and ‘90s. You can see some similarities in these watches as what was coming out of Switzerland by way of a certain Gérald Genta (and the connection between he and Credor doesn’t stop there). Credor In The 1990s The 1990s are something of an inflection point for the brand, when the Seiko...

The 57 Best Swiss Watch Brands: A Complete Guide for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 20, 2025

The 57 Best Swiss Watch Brands: A Complete Guide for 2026

If you were to ask the average person on the street in any part of the world which nation comes to mind when they think about luxury watches, they’d likely not hesitate in naming Switzerland. While the realities of the international watch industry are more complex, and several other nations, such as Japan and Germany, are also prominent makers of excellent luxury watches, Switzerland will always, justifiably, be regarded as the world center of fine watchmaking. The country's longtime reputation for watch excellence springs not only from the sheer number of industry giants that call it home - including household names like Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet - but also from its world-renowned reputation for expertise in all the various crafts that go into fine watchmaking. The Swiss watch industry is as vast as it is complex, with different brands offering varying specialties in a wide range of price points for export around the globe.With all of that in mind, trying to boil down the Swiss watch industry to a subjective list of major players is a bit of a daunting task, as there are many dozens of brands worthy of inclusion. Here we attempt to provide a brief overview of some of the most prominent brands in the Swiss watch industry to give you a basic understanding of what makes each one special. For each brand, we'll provide a bit of history, showcase its major milestones and most important watches, and offer a bit of insight on w...

Urwerk’s UR-10 Spacemeter is Sci-Fi and Almost Conventional SJX Watches
Urwerk s UR-10 Spacemeter Oct 15, 2025

Urwerk’s UR-10 Spacemeter is Sci-Fi and Almost Conventional

Known for its avant-garde approach to watchmaking, Urwerk takes a surprise detour into orthodoxy with the UR-10 Spacemeter. At least at first glance, it is a round(-ish) sports watch with an integrated bracelet – and normal hour and minutes hands – as well as indicators you’ll find on no other watch. But conceptually, the UR-10 Spacemeter is typical Urwerk. The indicators on the dial are all astronomy related, bringing to mind past Urwerk models and the brand’s sci-fi style. Initial Thoughts Oddly, I find I find myself more impressed with the UR-10 aesthetically than technically. Urwerk has cultivated a military, sci-fi aesthetic that I’ve become enamoured with, especially the EMC. And, if the UR-10 is anything like its similarly sized and braceleted peers, it will wear well too. Then there are the dials, with ideal typography, which sit under a sapphire bubble and remind me of a flush-mounted ship’s compass. The complications are inspired by an unusual 19th-century regulator clock by Gustave Sandoz, and attempt to track both the Earth’s rotation and revolution. An interesting idea, but the execution is disappointing as the indications aren’t particularly mathematically accurate and based on arbitrary distances, like 10 km, rather than natural phenomenon like, say, a sidereal time watch, where one rotation of a sidereal hour hand corresponds to one rotation of the Earth. However, Urwerk likes to develop ideas over time, and the Spacemeter concept has potent...

Tritium Watches: How They Work, And How They're Still Being Made Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 10, 2025

Tritium Watches: How They Work, And How They're Still Being Made

The need to read the time in the dark has been a challenge for the makers of timepieces for hundreds of years. The first solution was not a visual but an audible one: watches that could chime the current hour and minute on demand. These types of watches, aka minute repeaters and sonneries, are quite rare and expensive today and regarded as luxuries rather than the utilitarian inventions they initially were. In the 1900s, a more practical option presented itself: treating a watch’s dial with luminous paint that made its time display visible in darkness. And while this approach proved to be much more cost-effective and practical, it also brought a new set of challenges, as the earliest substances used on the dials were discovered to be unsafe, for the people who made the watches and, to a lesser extent, those who wore them. Let There Be Light The first material applied to watch dials for nighttime luminescence was radium paint, which, thanks to radium’s half-life of 1,600 years, offered a long-lasting glow during that period before dimming - the catch being that, as its name implies, radium (specifically Radium-226, which was used as the base of the “Radiomir” substance registered by Guido Panerai ) is radioactive. In the 1920s, the mostly female factory workers who painted the watch dials with radium compounds started falling ill and dying at alarming rates, leading to lawsuits against the companies that produced the material and eventually, safer working conditio...