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Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past

Rolex s Perpetual Padellone Annual Sep 15, 2026

Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past

Rolex has added a rather unexpected complication to its Perpetual collection with the new Perpetual Padellone. Taking its name from the vintage reference 8171, the watch combines a 39mm case with an annual calendar and a moonphase display. At first glance, it is perhaps the dial that grabs your attention, particularly the blue enamel moonphase […] Visit Hot Take: Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone Annual Calendar Takes A Nod From The Past to read the full article.

In-Depth - The new Rolex Perpetual Padellone, The Return of an Icon now with Annual Calendar and Dynapulse (Incl. Video)

Rolex Perpetual Padellone Sep 15, 2026

In-Depth - The new Rolex Perpetual Padellone, The Return of an Icon now with Annual Calendar and Dynapulse (Incl. Video)

It is not often that Rolex introduces a new watch outside of the industry’s main exhibition, Watches and Wonders (or Baselworld before it). In fact, in recent years, it has only happened on very rare occasions, such as the release of the Daytona Le Mans, the record-breaking Deepsea Challenge in titanium or the Deepsea D-Blue […]

Introducing: The Rolex Perpetual Padellone [Hands-On, Live Pics, Technical Brief, Competition, & Personal Thoughts]

Rolex Perpetual Padellone [Hands-On Live Sep 15, 2026

Introducing: The Rolex Perpetual Padellone [Hands-On, Live Pics, Technical Brief, Competition, & Personal Thoughts]

It's a watch that has been long-awaited: Rolex has just announced the new Perpetual Padellone—a very classic and technically impressive instantaneous annual calendar with moonphase. The new release comes three years after the launch of the 1908, which replaced the discontinued Cellini collection and introduced the Perpetual line. Now, that new collection goes in a more complicated direction. James Stacey is in Milan for the launch—and even got to see the watch in advance—so read on for a section later in this article featuring his hands-on impressions. The new 2026 Rolex Perpetual Padellone. Let's start with a piece of fun trivia. This is the first Rolex model—to my knowledge—to take its *actual* name from a nickname given by collectors to its historical predecessor. The ref. 8171—which Rolex explicitly cites as the inspiration for the new watch—was nicknamed the Padellone, Italian for "large frying pan," for its wide 38mm flat case and slightly domed dial. So it's appropriate that Rolex would return to Milan—arguably the birthplace of vintage watch collecting—to launch a watch that will likely make a lot of vintage lovers happy. A vintage Rolex ref. 8171 "Padellone." Even if you don't know the history of vintage Rolex or the 8171—which we'll cover in a minute—a new watch from Rolex (especially one launched off-cycle, so to speak, outside Watches & Wonders) is always a big deal. The only recent similar release was the surprise launch of the white go...

First Look - Chopard Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of its 1976 Icon with the Happy Diamonds Heritage

Chopard Celebrates Sep 15, 2026

First Look - Chopard Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of its 1976 Icon with the Happy Diamonds Heritage

A true child of its time, Chopard’s 1976 Happy Diamonds watch captured the spirit of the decade, a period marked by rebellion against rigid traditions, the rise of disco culture and a shift towards ready-to-wear luxury. Breaking away from traditional static diamond settings, Chopard’s Happy Diamonds were liberated from metal claws and allowed to spin […]

Hands-On: the Benjamin James Deerhurst Regulator

Hands-On: the Benjamin James Deerhurst Regulator

The trajectory of my watch enthusiasm over the past several years can be boiled down to one basic principle: seeking things that are different. It’s what led me to Arcanaut, briefly owning a M.A.D.1S, a devotion to the works of Jiro Katayama, and, ultimately, boredom with brands owned by the big conglomerates. It’s been, honestly, an exciting time to reject the mainstream, as there seems to be a neverending stream of microbrands doing interesting things either well outside the norm or just slightly tilted away from it. Benjamin James is a Hong Kong based microbrand that falls into the latter category. Their watches are not avant garde or challenging works of outsider art, exactly, but they represent the distilled point of view of their founder, and the Deerhurst regulator surprised me with its overall quality and some of its touchpoints. $1702 Hands-On: the Benjamin James Deerhurst Regulator Case Stainless steel Movement Sellita SW266-1 M Dial Burgundy Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Leather strap or bracelet Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 36 x 42mm Thickness 9.1mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $1702 The Deerhurst is a slim, 36mm dress watch available in three dial variations. My sample is in burgundy, but it’s also available in “Old English White” and “Denim Blue.” The design feature of the watch that will either charm you or make you roll your eyes is the Clous de Paris bezel, which in 2026 is perhaps one of the most old-fashioned...

Six Omega Stopwatches And A Lost NZ Racetrack

Omega Stopwatches Sep 15, 2026

Six Omega Stopwatches And A Lost NZ Racetrack

Here at Fratello, we get to cover all manner of watch-related stories. These include so many different watchmakers, from Rolex to Seiko to IWC. Omega, however, occupies a special place within the pantheon of watch brands for us. Today, we have a slightly different Omega story featuring stopwatches and a slice of New Zealand history. […] Visit Six Omega Stopwatches And A Lost NZ Racetrack to read the full article.

Chopard Happy Diamonds Heritage: 50 Years of Floating Diamonds, Reimagined

Chopard Happy Diamonds Heritage: 50 Years of Floating Diamonds, Reimagined Sep 15, 2026

Chopard Happy Diamonds Heritage: 50 Years of Floating Diamonds, Reimagined

The watch that set diamonds free turns 50, and Chopard is marking the moment with a Heritage edition that looks back without losing its nerve.

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1

Ferdinand Berthoud Sep 15, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1

The slate of truly new releases from Geneva Watch Days was fairly limited, but among the many new variants of existing models, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1 stood out for its lightweight and richly tactile ceramised titanium case and casual, almost sporty look. Initial thoughts Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) is no stranger to exotic case materials, having used ceramised titanium before (for the FB 1RES.4) as well as carburised stainless steel and bronze. But the FB 3SPC.4-1 is just the second FB 3SPC to come dressed in a non-precious metal case, and the first with a ceramised coating. The FB 3SPC arguably gives up some ground in the looks department, though this is subjective; many collectors find the exposed movement preferable to a conventional dial, since it makes it easier to appreciate the finishing without taking off the watch. That said, the design impacts legibility and some aspects of the layout seem counterintuitive, such as the upside-down orientation of the dial-side balance wheel. The FB 3SPC debuted in 2022 and remains the high-end brand’s entry level model, though with a retail price approaching US$200,000, it’s priced in line with complicated models from established brands. The value proposition of this time-only watch hinges on the appeal of the cylindrical hairspring — which while not unique in contemporary watchmaking is executed superbly — and the no-expense-spared approach to finishing that FB is known for. The pricing also reflects the low-volum...

First Look - IWC Celebrates 50 Years Of The Genta-Designed Ingenieur SL With Two Ingenieur Automatic Limited Editions

IWC Celebrates 50 Years Sep 15, 2026

First Look - IWC Celebrates 50 Years Of The Genta-Designed Ingenieur SL With Two Ingenieur Automatic Limited Editions

Birthdays are to be celebrated, so it’s no surprise IWC Schaffhausen honours the 50th anniversary of one of its most pivotal watches, the Ingenieur SL. Introduced in 1976 and penned by Gérald Genta, the Ingenieur SL was one of the early adopters of the integrated sports watch ethos. Lasting until the late 1990s, the Ingenieur […]

Introducing: Victorinox Maverick (Live Pics)

Victorinox Maverick Live Pics What Sep 14, 2026

Introducing: Victorinox Maverick (Live Pics)

What We Know Victorinox has refreshed the Maverick in what amounts to the most dramatic reinvention of the line since it was first introduced over two decades ago. The Maverick line has long been a fixture in Victorinox's watch offerings, and the new generation introduced this week reinforces its position as Victorinox's "dressy" take on a dive (or dive-inspired) watch. The new Maverick, available in a handful of colors across quartz and automatic models, largely keeps the same ethos and intent as previous Mavericks, but sheds much (read: nearly all) of the visual identity that has made the Maverick recognizable over the last twenty-odd years. Now measuring 39mm across, the new watches are simpler, smaller, and more focused in their design than the outgoing generation. The watch is available in two basic models — one quartz, powered by a Ronda 715 movement, and the other automatic, powered by a Sellita SW200. The watches are largely similar, but a few subtle differences remain. The first is the bezel (bidirectional on both models). The quartz version uses a polished mineral insert, while the automatic uses a polished ceramic with a fully luminous scale. The markers are also slightly different, and while each version's caseback is decorated with a Swiss Army Knife, the caseback on the automatic is transparent with a wireframe graphic, while that of the quartz is solid with an engraved image. Beyond that, these watches are very similar, so choices come down to movement and...

First Look - The new Venezianico Redentore Levius, Italian Power and Titanium Case

Venezianico Redentore Levius Italian Power Sep 14, 2026

First Look - The new Venezianico Redentore Levius, Italian Power and Titanium Case

Founded by brothers Alberto and Alessandro Morelli in 2017, Venezianico is a Venice-based brand, originally known as Meccaniche Veneziane. In recent years, it has increasingly focused on bringing more of its watch production and craftsmanship to Italy. The new Redentore Levius is one good example of the effort, combining a lightweight titanium case with a hand-engraved […]

Introducing: Benrus Type 3X (Live Pics)

Introducing: Benrus Type 3X (Live Pics)

What We Know With Benrus's revival well underway, 2026 opened with the reintroduction of the Sky Chief, a longtime Hodinkee favorite. Now the brand follows it with something new rather than another reissue: the Type 3X, developed in collaboration with U.S. Special Forces veterans. The watch traces back to the same premise that produced the original Type I and Type II: in the 1970s, the U.S. military wrote a formal MIL-SPEC for a wristwatch, and Benrus built the result. For the Type 3X, Benrus assembled a team of former Tier One special operations veterans to design a modern version of that watch from the ground up, prioritizing function over styling. The Type 3X comes in two styles: one with a black composite-carbon case and a green mid-case, and another with a silver case and a black mid-case. Both pair a unidirectional rotating titanium dive bezel with an aluminum inner ring, and a single-domed sapphire crystal with a double anti-reflective coating. The black dial carries Old Radium Super-LumiNova on the markers and hands, with a date window aperture at 6 o'clock. Inside is the ETA 2893 automatic movement, delivering a 42-hour power reserve, 250 gauss of anti-magnetic resistance, and a 24-hour quickset GMT hand offering "caller-style" functionality. Water resistance is rated to 20 atm (660 feet). The case closes with a titanium caseback featuring the Benrus logo. The Type 3X comes on a color matching velcro fabric strap with an additional black rubber strap included. I...

Introducing: The MB&F; SP One Pavée (Live Pics)

MB&F; Sep 14, 2026

Introducing: The MB&F; SP One Pavée (Live Pics)

What We Know The MB&F; SP One, released in 2025, was unlike any watch the brand had ever designed. And the name—SP stands for "Special Project" —was telling. The watch was neither a zany Horological Machine nor a futuristic twist on more conventional watch design like Legacy Machine. Rather, it was the brand's first-ever take on a dress watch, in very compact proportions and with a movement suspended in the middle of it all. Those who doubted MB&F; could ever make anything close to a dress watch have now been squarely disproven, with the design extremely well received by collectors and with a rather long waitlist today (three years for the platinum variant, and slightly shorter for the one in rose gold). With the original two references in rose gold and platinum, MB&F; now introduces a new, third variation in white gold called the SP One Pavée. The new case metal for the SP One is rather insignificant compared to the main change here: a complete gem-setting makeover. There are a lot of new diamonds in the new variant—255 to be exact. On the 38mm pebble-shaped case, diamonds grace the midcase, contrasting with the distinctive floating lugs of the watch. Diamonds grace the cap of the crown, as well as the pin buckle of the light, seafoam-colored strap. But that's not all—the inner beveled flange, previously a colorful brushed ring, is completely set in diamonds. The tilted dial, connected to the floating movement via conical gearing, is circularly brushed and treated...

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Michel Nydegger

Greubel Forsey seems Sep 14, 2026

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Michel Nydegger

With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority. Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches. We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D; is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker secretly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.

Buying Guide - Jumping For Joy, With Six Of The Coolest Jumping Hour Watches

De Bethune DB25 Digitale one Sep 13, 2026

Buying Guide - Jumping For Joy, With Six Of The Coolest Jumping Hour Watches

Fresh off the avalanche of releases during Geneva Watch Days, we’re revisiting a Buying Guide topic from earlier this year. Sparked by watches like the De Bethune DB25 Digitale, one of this year’s absolute best of the fair, and the refreshingly cool M.A.D.3, we take another look at Jumping Hour watches. From brands high and […]

New releases from FP Journe, Jacob & Co, Delma and more

Jacob & Co. gives new meaning Sep 12, 2026

New releases from FP Journe, Jacob & Co, Delma and more

This week brings some wildcards to the selection. In the dust that settled after Geneva Watch Days, François-Paul Journe announced a unique piece created with Prince Albert II of Monaco, to be auctioned for charity; Jacob & Co. gives new meaning to “gem-set” with a diamond-encrusted balance wheel; and Delma steps away from its usual … Continued

GWD26 Armchair Pick: Frank’s Top 3 from the New Release

GWD26 Armchair Pick: Frank’s Top 3 from the New Release

Our writer Frank deliberates on the recently concluded Geneva Watch Days 2026 and chooses three of his favourite watches from the show.

From Seiko to Panerai: 6 Watches That Prove Case Size Can Be Misleading

Two Broke Watch Snobs

Panerai 6 Watches Sep 12, 2026

From Seiko to Panerai: 6 Watches That Prove Case Size Can Be Misleading

A watch’s measurements rarely tell the full story. We compare six cases we’ve worn to show how shape, lugs, thickness, and proportions change the fit.

Hands-On: The Tudor Northflag

Tudor Northflag It's been Sep 11, 2026

Hands-On: The Tudor Northflag

It's been a big year for Tudor. The brand is in the midst of a major anniversary celebration, with 2026 marking 100 years since Hans Wilsdorf filed the first paperwork that eventually led to Tudor's creation. Appropriately, that anniversary has been the dominant story this year, and it was reflected in their major novelty for Watches & Wonders 2026: the Tudor Monarch. That watch was, I think, largely a successful launch for the brand, and the supporting releases, though subtle, were meaningful and (in some cases) necessary. Still, for those of us who find ourselves generally drawn to Tudor's more utilitarian offerings, it was easy to feel a little overlooked coming out of Watches & Wonders. That changed last week with the launch of the new Northflag. The new watch is an update on the North Flag from 2015, and is aimed squarely at those looking for a compelling everyday adventure and exploration–ready watch. It does that, but it also brings the same maturity that has begun to permeate the Tudor lineup. But more on that in a minute, because before we talk about the Northflag, I want to talk about the North Flag (I know, vaguely confusing), and to do that, I need to talk about anniversaries. The Tudor North Flag I'm on record in several places as having my doubts about whether this was really the year for Tudor to mark the 100-year milestone. An even cursory look at Tudor's history quickly reveals that, while the Tudor wordmark may have been trademarked in 1926, and while e...

Enthusiast Spotlight: Chris Sohl Dives Into the Soul of the All-New Certina DS Super PH2000M

Certina DS Super PH2000M Sep 11, 2026

Enthusiast Spotlight: Chris Sohl Dives Into the Soul of the All-New Certina DS Super PH2000M

For Chris Sohl—or simply Sohl, as most folks know him—watches and diving have always been intertwined. He got into both around the same time in 2015, discovering that each offered the same combination of history, adventure, technical detail, and, perhaps most importantly, an endless rabbit hole to explore. Nearly a decade later, he’s a technical diver, devoted dive-watch enthusiast, and self-described “Nerd Shepherd,” bringing people together around the things they love. In this edition of Enthusiast Spotlight, we caught up with Sohl to talk about his path into technical diving, the watches he trusts underwater, his most memorable dives, and why sometimes the best tool is the one that’s wildly overqualified for the job. Finally, we got Sohl’s first impressions of Certina’s new DS Super PH2000M, deep-water dive watch. Tell us a little bit about yourself and how you first got into diving. I’m a landlocked, scuba diving family man in Louisville, Kentucky, and a real big nerd about a lot of things. I find great joy in bringing people together over shared passions, especially watches and diving, and organizing the pursuit. I recently coined the label “Nerd Shepherd,” which I think captures what I’ve been up to for the past several years pretty well, from administering The Grey NATO podcast’s TGN Crew Slack, to organizing dives with friends across the watch enthusiast community. I got into watches and diving separately by chance, just months apart bac...

GWD26 Armchair Pick: Stanley’s top 3 from the new release

GWD26 Armchair Pick: Stanley’s top 3 from the new release

Geneva Watch Days. I cannot help but feel a little FOMO, as I was always on the ground with our Chief Editor during such events.

Introducing - Delma Adds a Meteorite Dial to its Midland Automatic

Introducing - Delma Adds a Meteorite Dial to its Midland Automatic

Delma’s Midland collection is the brand’s sporty-chic take on the integrated-bracelet watch, bringing some 1980s flavour to the category. The watches in this collection come in two sizes, 40mm and 34mm, with the automatic 40mm versions sitting at an accessible price point of around EUR 1,400. We have already seen the Midland in multiple colours, […]

7 Watches With 100M+ Water Resistance That Aren’t Dive Watches

Two Broke Watch Snobs

7 Watches With 100M+ Water Resistance That Aren’t Dive Watches

From field watches to GMTs and chronographs, these picks offer the water resistance we want without the usual dive-watch formula.

The Top 5 Watches That Should Never Have Been Discontinued

The Top 5 Watches That Should Never Have Been Discontinued

Another Friday, another list! After the hustle and bustle of Geneva Watch Days last week, we are slowly getting back into the normal swing of things. This allowed us to think about a good Top 5 topic for this week that isn’t about the best releases we have seen lately. This new list is all […] Visit The Top 5 Watches That Should Never Have Been Discontinued to read the full article.

First Look - The Cyma Grand Maestro Steel Cross Chronograph

First Look - The Cyma Grand Maestro Steel Cross Chronograph

Cyma’s history begins in the 1860s, with the establishment of the Tavannes Watch company in the Swiss Jura, laying the foundation for a manufacture that would become an important name in Swiss watchmaking, even though the Cyma name was only registered in 1903. By the 1920s, the company had grown into one of Europe’s major […]

The Chronograph That Rules Them All Is Back: Bow To The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In Platinum

A. Lange & Sohne Sep 11, 2026

The Chronograph That Rules Them All Is Back: Bow To The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In Platinum

There are 567 reasons to fall in love with the A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split in platinum. The only watch in the world capable of measuring intermediate and comparative times with an aggregate duration of up to 12 hours houses the 567-part hand-winding triple-rattrapante caliber L132.1, which has a hypnotizing effect on watch connoisseurs. […] Visit The Chronograph That Rules Them All Is Back: Bow To The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In Platinum to read the full article.

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

Patek Philippe Sep 11, 2026

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

One of the most appealing releases of Geneva Watch Days was the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator. While not an altogether new model, the watch incorporates a number of welcome updates, including a smaller case and a more refined dial that resembles an instrument panel on the wrist. The L.U.C 98.02-L movement remains in service, and is both COSC and Poinçon de Genève-certified. Moreover, the calibre achieves an impressive nine days of power reserve and is neatly finished, as is typical for Chopard’s higher-end offerings. Initial thoughts Chopard has long been a steward of the regulator format. In fact, the 1963 Heritage Regulator marks 20 years since the brand’s first contemporary regulator wristwatch. The regulator format is strongly associated with precision clocks, but Chopard’s interpretation reminds me of an automotive dashboard — perhaps intentionally, since the brand’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is known for his affinity for vintage cars. The latest example is substantially improved over prior generations, with several nips and tucks that result in a move wearable and less busy package overall. The watch is tangibly well made, with an expensive bill of materials and refined execution. The 1963 Heritage Regulator is priced at about US$50,000, and is limited to a concise run of 25 pieces in (ethically sourced) 18k white gold. By current standards, it’s a reasonable proposition, but still slightly above the going rate for a Patek Philippe...

Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References

Citizen Group who Sep 10, 2026

Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References

As part of their Geneva Watch Days presentation, Alpina unveiled several new solar quartz references in their Solarmetre line, which effectively places solar quartz movements made by La Joux-Perret in familiar Alpina references. It’s about the most natural move possible from a business perspective. Alpina and La Joux-Perret are both owned by the Citizen Group, who of course make Citizen watches and have been leaning heavily into solar quartz technology for years. The Alpina watches sit at a higher price point than the average Citizen, so the expansion of solar quartz across Alpina’s collection naturally begins an interesting conversation about value for enthusiasts who might have an interest in both brands. The core of the release last week would have to be a trio of new Startimer Pilot Solarmetre watches. These are solar quartz powered versions of the still new Alpina pilot watch introduced earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. I think the value here is in the particular way these watches take advantage of the smaller La Joux-Perret quartz movement compared to their mechanical counterparts. The mechanical versions of these watches measure 40mm in diameter and a hair over 10mm tall, while the Solarmetre watches come in at 38mm wide and 9.3mm thick. That’s a meaningful difference in size, with the added grab and go benefits of solar quartz (Alpina says the AL-140 movements here will run for 10 months in total darkness, and of course it doesn’t take much light to...

GWD26 Armchair Pick: Reuben’s top 3 from the new releases

Ming 57.05 Comet Sep 10, 2026

GWD26 Armchair Pick: Reuben’s top 3 from the new releases

Reuben picks three standout releases from Geneva Watch Days 2026: the GP Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, MING 57.05 Comet and L’Epée The Football.

First Look - New Sensations with Hublot’s new Big Bang Original Soft Touch Models

Hublot s new Big Bang Sep 10, 2026

First Look - New Sensations with Hublot’s new Big Bang Original Soft Touch Models

For over two decades, Hublot has embraced the ‘Art of Fusion’, blending unexpected materials like rubber, gold, ceramic, and sapphire into bold visual statements. The latest Big Bang Original Soft Touch pushes the boundaries even further, inviting us to experience how a watch feels. More than just a coating, Hublot has integrated a microscopic, textured […]