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Time+Tide
A new in-house calibre and innovative smartphone-inspired chronograph pushers keeps this complicated "Jumbo" as thin as a normal one.The post Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak “Jumbo” RD#5 pairs a flyback chronograph with a flying tourbillon in an ultra-thin package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) reinvents the chronograph with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5. Inside the titanium and palladium BMG case – standing just 8.1 mm high – is the cal. 8100, a new take on the chronograph mechanism that employs spring-loaded racks to gather and store energy. The RD#5 is the fifth and final instalment in the “RD” series of watches that underline the impressive technical know-how of AP, particularly its Le Locle manufacture that evolved from Renaud & Papi (APRP). Conceived with the goal of creating a chronograph that is extra slim and easy on the fingers, the RD#5 boasts exceptionally light and comfortable pusher feel, an instantaneously-jumping minutes counter, and an exceptionally slim profile (thanks in part to peripheral winding), all while remaining amenable to industrial-haute horlogerie manufacturing. It’s one of the most technically interesting debuts of 2025, and we explain AP’s new take on the chronograph in detail below. The cal. 8100 with its unorthodox chronograph and peripheral rotor Initial thoughts Outwardly just another Royal Oak, with the same ideal proportions and class-leading bracelet as the iconic “Jumbo”, the RD#5 is actually one of the most innovative mechanical chronographs in recent years. Perhaps the only comparison for out-of-the-box chronograph construction is AgenGraphe that was unveiled almost a decade ago. The watch was evidently developed with two goals in ...
Fratello
Praesidus, a brand devoted to authentic WWII recreations, has teamed up with French watch news site The Watch Observer for a limited edition of its A-11 Type 44. Limited to 250 numbered watches, the new model pays tribute to the US Air Force’s 533rd Bomb Squadron. If that doesn’t immediately ring a bell, it is […] Visit Introducing: The Praesidus × The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 - A Limited WWII Tribute to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Hamilton is teaming up with Call of Duty: Black Ops 7, the newest entrant in the best-selling first-person shooter game series of all time.The post Khaki Field killstreak: Hamilton’s latest video game collab is with Call of Duty: Black Ops 7 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
For as long as I’ve been writing about watches (and in fact much longer) Hamilton has been associated with the silver screen. They are incredibly proud of their long history of popularizing specific watches through their appearances in movies. It’s a tradition that goes back decades, to when Elvis wore a Hamilton Ventura in Blue Hawaii, and has continued through the years with ties to some of the most widely seen films of the recent past, including Oppenheimer, Dune Part II, and more. Lately, however, Hamilton has shifted their focus just slightly by fully embracing what many see as a category that is equal to film in terms of storytelling and visual impact: gaming. The new Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition is the brand’s third watch that is specifically tied to a videogame, and follows an ambitious project made to coincide with the latest release in the Death Stranding series. The new version of the Khaki Field seen here is, at least on the surface, a bit easier to digest than the avant-garde Boulton concept seen in Death Stranding. And that certainly makes a great deal of sense for Call of Duty, which is, as these things go, a far more grounded gaming experience. It is, notably, one of those games that has broken through to the popular culture even beyond serious gamers. It’s a title that just about everyone knows, even if they don’t know they know it, a notion that seems to bolster Hamilton’s decision to lean into the video game wor...
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Time+Tide
The Laureato distinguishes itself from other 70s integrated bracelet luxury sports watches due to Girard-Perregaux's focus on movements.The post The history of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, an innovative 70s icon that continues to evolve today appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. merges a cheeky robot display with one of watchmaking's most complicated mechanisms.The post The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. brings a playful robot animation to a means-business split-seconds chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Ochs und Junior, the independent brand founded in 2006 around the inventive genius of Dr Ludwig Oechslin, has built its reputation on watches that present complex astronomical or calendar displays in radically simple, functional designs. Models such as the perpetual calendar, annual calendar, and moon phase are already cult favourites among collectors who appreciate mechanical […]
Monochrome
Released during Watches & Wonders 2025, Nomos’ Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer – a slim, sporty, water-resistant and user-friendly world timer – drew admiring crowds to the brand’s booth. One of the thinnest world timers on the market, the Nomos Worldtimer further wowed the crowds with its sensible tourist-class price. Following the inaugural references, Nomos returns […]
Time+Tide
The Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 9 becomes by far the most expensive watch by the young brand, but also the most complicated.The post Ōtsuka Lōtec bursts through the affordable barrier with the epic, tourbillon-equipped and chiming No. 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Fratello
Favre Leuba - formerly Favre-Leuba - is a historic brand we’re excited to cover here on Fratello. The world’s second-oldest watch company, just two years behind Blancpain, has a fascinating history and has produced some incredible watches. As was true for many marques, the Quartz Crisis proved challenging. While the brand never truly disappeared, it […] Visit Favre Leuba: How The Brand’s History Has Shaped Its Future to read the full article.
Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection is certainly not the brand’s dressiest work. However, the impressive watches, many of which are complete calendars, still look fairly formal. Well, that’s about to change because the watchmaker from the Vallée de Joux is launching a sportier new version of its Master Control Calendar. It features a two-tone gray sector […] Visit Jaeger-LeCoultre Spices Up Its Master Control Calendar With A Grained Two-Tone Sector Dial to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre has just introduced the Master Control Calendar Limited Edition, the latest addition to a long line of triple calendar watches going back decades. Packaged in the 40 mm Master Control case we’ve become familiar with, this new 500-piece stainless steel limited edition is all about the dial, which features a richly textured silver and grey livery on a “sector” layout. Despite the classical aesthetic, the Master Control Date is thoroughly modern on the inside with the cal. 866 featuring a silicon escapement that supports a 70-hour power reserve. Initial thoughts The triple calendar moon phase has long been a staple of the Jaeger-LeCoultre line-up; Pablo Picasso famously wore one. Add to this lineage the brand’s unique jumping date pointer, which jumps in a wide arc from the 15th to the 16th of the month to avoid confounding the moon phase display, and the result is a watch that manages to be both charming and technically distinctive. It’s also easily wearable in a 40 mm case, that, while larger than the vintage originals, gives the indicators on the dial plenty of space to breathe. Of course, the movement is the cal. 866, effectively a cal. 899 with a triple calendar module, which helps keeps the overall package quite sleek at 10.95 mm – on par with many simple time-and-date watches in this category. Upgraded a few years ago with a silicon escapement, the movement now runs for 70 hours when fully wound, adding convenience to wearability. Naturall...
Worn & Wound
One of the most exciting releases of the year that has weirdly gone a little under the radar is the Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton, which debuted in March just ahead of Watches & Wonders craziness. The timing of that release, in retrospect, may have somewhat dampened the response – it’s just an insanely competitive time on the novelties calendar. But I imagine anyone who has had a chance to handle these watches in person, at a Windup Watch Fair or elsewhere, comes away with a similar positive reaction. It’s just incredibly impressive that Formex is able to offer a watch with a full ceramic case and bracelet at the price point that these watches sit at (around $5,000 at today’s exchange rate). If there was a single loud objection to that initial batch of watches, it was likely centered around the skeletonized dial, which is just a bridge too far for some. It was only a matter of time before Formex announced non-skeletonized versions of the Essence Ceramica, and lucky for ceramic watch loving enthusiasts, that time is now. The new Essence Ceramica references arrive with the same full ceramic construction as their predecessors. The 41mm case still features the Formex Case Suspension System (a feature that allows the case to “flex” with your wrist for comfort and to mitigate shock) along with a screw down crown and that fantastic ceramic bracelet with micro-adjust on the clasp. The ceramic material is lightweight (30% lighter than steel) and much harder, so it...
Worn & Wound
Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer has been making “coffee timers” for years now. It’s a well established if not definitional part of his watch brand. Inspired by coffee culture, most Brew watches over the years have some mechanism to highlight the passing of 30 seconds, considered by most to be the ideal amount of time needed to pull the perfect espresso shot. I think just about everyone, including Jonathan, would agree that this timing mechanism works well as a brand signature, but that, for the most part, owners of Brew watches purchase them without thinking that they will definitely use it for coffee timing. It’s like buying a chronograph with a tachymeter scale – it’s there, you may even know exactly how to use it, but your enjoyment of the watch doesn’t derive from actively timing laps. That said, there are certainly some collectors, and perhaps professional baristas, who find real practicality in these coffee timers. But you’ll sometimes hear a common refrain: the analog means of timing a 30 second interval might not be the most user friendly in a pinch. Enter, the Metric Digital Blend, one of the most surprising watches we’ve seen this year. Housed in a familiar stainless steel Metric case, the Digital Blend is Brew’s first ana-digi watch, a throwback to the 1980s, and perhaps a truly useful espresso timer. Taking advantage of an LED display, the Digital Blend’s 30 second timer can be activated at the push of a button, with a helpful visual aid ...
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Time+Tide
The Horizon draws inspiration not only from the White Cliffs of Dover, but also from the pivotal Battle of Britain in 1940.The post Swan & Edgar’s Horizon blends minimalist design with maximum story appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Vaer is an American brand founded in 2016 that specialises in accessible yet refined watches for all occasions. Sure, we’ve heard this theme countless times, but details add up to make Vaer’s offerings a bit different and special. The G5 Pacific Steel 39mm USA GMT is a prime example that offers true (or traveller’s) GMT […]
Time+Tide
Sylvain Berneron's second watch couldn't be any more different than his first - at least at first glance. What it is, though, is brilliant.The post The Quantième Annuel proves Berneron isn’t a one-trick pony – not that anyone was worried appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Having an open mind to explore the perimeters of what watches you think you can wear can be a very worthwhile exercise.The post The Tudor Black Bay Pro’s thickness is a feature, not a flaw: the pros of exploring the boundaries of your personal taste appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Cartier is a brand that has been on an absolute roll in recent years. Some readers may remember a time when self-proclaimed watch geeks unfairly considered Cartier “a jewelry brand that also sells watches.” However, the tide of perception has truly shifted in the last decade or so, and Cartier’s timepieces now seem hotter than […] Visit Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage to read the full article.
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Fratello
Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Daan and Thomas face off with two affordable vintage-inspired dive watches this time. Thomas defends the Lorier Neptune, while Daan represents the new Baltic Aquascaphe MK2. These contenders have the aesthetic of ’50s and ’60s dive watches and house modern Miyota movements in 39(.5)mm cases. The Lorier costs US$599, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Lorier Neptune Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A few recent releases from both micro and big box brands alike have had Borna thinking the style is slowly merging with the mainstream.The post Are mesh bracelets having a moment, and do we have microbrands to thank for that? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Tudor introduces a complication it's never featured before, Casio supports breast cancer research and Tissot reprises its Grendizer collab.The post New releases from Tudor, Formex, Casio G-Shock and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
More than 90 years ago, Patek Philippe launched the watch that would become its signature, the legendary Calatrava - informed by Bauhaus simplicity, conceived of economic pragmatism, and boldly establishing the template for scores of men’s dress watches to follow. Today’s Calatrava collection is vast, comprising numerous high complications, but the basic time-only dress version remains the gateway drug for many a budding Patek enthusiast. In 2025, Patek Philippe unveiled the latest version, the salmon-dialed Ref. 6916, which represents the culmination of many decades’ worth of evolution on both the aesthetic and technical sides. Here is the story behind the Calatrava, and why it has become an undisputed icon of understated luxury. Reference 96 (1932) In the throes of the Great Depression, a new era was dawning for one of the great horological houses of Switzerland. Like much of the rest of the watch industry, Patek Philippe, which traced its prestigious history all the way back to 1839, had fallen on hard times by 1932. That was the year that brothers Jean and Charles Stern, founders of Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères, a successful Swiss dial-making factory and a longtime supplier for Patek Philippe, acquired the latter company and swiftly began the work of updating its product portfolio. In a modern age increasingly dominated by the wristwatches that had surged in popularity since the end of World War I, Patek’s output still largely consisted of ornate, highl...
Time+Tide
Visually dramatic and eminently wearable, ArtyA's latest creation can be optioned with a mirrored caseback to better admire its movement.The post Featherlight through the bends: ArtyA puts on a show with the Purity Curvy HMS Mirror Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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