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First Look – The New MB&F; HM12 The Guardian, A Sci-Fi Horological Machine with a Robot Companion Monochrome
MB&F; 5h ago

First Look – The New MB&F; HM12 The Guardian, A Sci-Fi Horological Machine with a Robot Companion

Childhood imagination and science fiction to inspire high-end watchmaking? Why not, and MB&F; is proof that it can be a successful combination. Since the launch of HM1 in 2007, Maximilian Büsser’s concept laboratory has consistently transformed memories of spaceships, supercars, aircraft and robots into complex mechanical creations for the wrist. Some of the brand’s memorable […]

Max-imum cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian” SJX Watches
MB&F; 5h ago

Max-imum cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian”

After more than 20 years, avante garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. It combines a Horological Machine with a high-end shaped movement, flying tourbillon the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a designer. That Maertens did the har...

It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026 Fratello
Tudor s Best Release 11h ago

It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026

Most watch enthusiasts would agree that Tudor’s introductions during Watches and Wonders 2026 were not very surprising, apart from the Monarch and maybe the black ceramic Black Bay. Overall, it was a year of updates, and they tend to be less exciting. Just as a reminder, we got a new dial color for the Black […] Visit It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026 to read the full article.

Seiko Celebrates their Long Relationship with PADI: Introducing the HBB002 PADI 60th Anniversary Diver Worn & Wound
Seiko Celebrates their Long Relationship 21h ago

Seiko Celebrates their Long Relationship with PADI: Introducing the HBB002 PADI 60th Anniversary Diver

Earlier this year, I helped a close friend pick out her first mechanical watch: a beautiful blue Seiko Prospex “Save the Ocean” special edition. For me, it was an easy recommendation, given my love of Seiko, their position as the true global king of entry- to mid-level watch purchases, and the prestige of the Prospex diver line itself. For her, as a lover of all things to do with the natural world, it was meaningful thanks to the eco-benefitting twist and oceanic theming. That particular Prospex was not the first, nor the last Seiko to showcase an organization doing work for ocean conservation and education: new for 2026 is the Prospex HBB002, celebrating the Professional Association of Diving Instructors’ (PADI) 60th anniversary.  Seiko’s connection with the world of diving goes far beyond the simple styling and function of many of their iconic diver timepieces. As the company points out, it released its first diver in 1965, just one year before the PADI itself was founded with the intention of raising training standards and expanding access to education on diving as a hobby and profession. Now operating in 183 countries, PADI also puts promoting ocean conservation at its forefront, a noble cause that Seiko themselves have championed with their Save the Ocean program. So, it makes sense that Seiko has supported PADI as a partner for ten years, and is celebrating that partnership and PADI’s sixtieth anniversary with the new HBB002 model.  The watch itself bring...

Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture Hodinkee
Hermes Yesterday

Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture

We've all been told at least once in life to stick to our own lane. It's an old trope that historically holds merit. Stick to one discipline, master it, and you'll succeed. But in 2026, the rulebook has changed in almost every aspect of life, and sometimes those one-trick ponies aren't the ones leading the charge; they're actually left in the stable. La Montre Hermès S.A in Brugg, Switzerland. In watchmaking, it transpires that the latest crop of brands to realize this are the names we most associate with being wider fashion houses. Empires sustained by hand-stitching legacy into cloth, amplified in the theatre of the catwalk, now play in the watchmaking arena. We've witnessed many of these names turn to watchmaking as an additional arm to their already bulletproof name, and crucially, they're delivering watches with real merit. For Hermès, despite having a presence in watchmaking since the early 20th century, with Universal Genève as the brand's watchmaking partner from the 1930s and the production of exclusively Hermès-signed pieces such as desk clocks, this rise has been built brick by brick since the 1970s. Outfitting horses came first, then their riders, and it quickly proved that true luxury comes from mastery, not scale. During the 1970s, the maison decided to build schools to train artisans the Hermès way, passing along hand-stitching, leather cutting, and scarf-printing techniques from master to apprentice. While other names pursued mass production or outsour...

First Look – The New Yema Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29 Refines the French Brand’s Architectural Dress Watch Monochrome
Yema Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29 Refines Yesterday

First Look – The New Yema Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29 Refines the French Brand’s Architectural Dress Watch

Named after the historic Granvelle Palace in Besançon, home to the city’s Museum of Time, the Yema Granvelle collection (2025) embraced a more architectural and elegant approach, stepping away from the brand’s familiar world of dive watches and tool-oriented sports models, and offering a model with a distinctive cushion-shaped case and powered by one of […]

Beaucroft Introduces the Arc, an Elegant Everyday Watch with Impressive Specs Worn & Wound
Yesterday

Beaucroft Introduces the Arc, an Elegant Everyday Watch with Impressive Specs

The microbrand/independent scene in the UK is truly one of the most exciting in the world, with dozens of brands vying for attention and an always growing community of excited watch enthusiasts eager to experience just about everything on offer. This is very much the vibe every time we attend British Watchmakers’ Day and have a chance to experience it firsthand, and honestly it’s invigorating in a way to be placed in an enthusiast environment that feels familiar but also very specific to the UK.  One of the more interesting brands to emerge from this scene is Beaucroft, based in Cambridge. Beaucroft is not the flashiest or highest profile microbrand in the UK, but they’re on the rise, and they tend to make an impression when you actually see the watches in person. Garrett was such a fan of the Element when he saw one he decided to purchase it for himself. My moment of conversion came at British Watchmakers’ Day 2025, where I still regret not purchasing the Penfold Special Edition released that year. Their newest release has been dubbed the “Arc” and is an update of the Seeker model originally launched in 2023.  The Arc leans into the design language that was established with the Seeker and the brand has continued to refine in every model since, namely flowing, natural case lines paired with dynamic, colorful fumé dials. The dramatic curved mid-case is, according to the brand, inspired by the Bridge of Sighs over the River Cam, not far from Beaucroft’s head...

Introducing: Beaucroft The Arc — An Evolution Of The Seeker Watch Range Fratello
Yesterday

Introducing: Beaucroft The Arc — An Evolution Of The Seeker Watch Range

Beaucroft introduces a new watch line called The Arc. This collection builds on one of Beaucroft’s defining designs, the Seeker, which established the brand’s signature flowing case and dial lines. Now, The Arc pushes that idea further. It remains an easy-wearing everyday watch but brings subtle improvements in construction and feel. The name comes from […] Visit Introducing: Beaucroft The Arc — An Evolution Of The Seeker Watch Range to read the full article.

Recommended Reading: 'Ultimate Collector Watches' From Taschen Offers A Scholarly Approach To Watch Books Hodinkee
Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches Yesterday

Recommended Reading: 'Ultimate Collector Watches' From Taschen Offers A Scholarly Approach To Watch Books

In two recent conversations, I repeated my frequently used adage: "I can't collect the watches, so I collect the knowledge." This was said when talking to two world-class collectors; one has one of the most complete collections of Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, and the other has probably the most important collection of Lange, F.P. Journe, and historical watches in the world. Both of them said the same thing, which I'll paraphrase. "I didn't have the money to collect these watches until X years ago, but before that, I was learning." That's why I own a lot of books—even if I probably will never reach those heights—and I'm always looking for more. Knowledge means a lot. Watch books often fall into two categories: either overly esoteric, with a ton of information, or overly broad, without a ton of information but with a lot of nice pictures. I have a bit of each, but I find myself returning to the former most often. You can glean a lot of information from books like AP's "20th Century Complicated Watches" or Patek Philippe's two-volume museum collection tomes, but you only need them once or twice a year. My books on Rolex Day-Dates or Khanjar Daytonas are awesome, but a bit less visited after the first pass. Dr. Helmut Crott's "The Dial" is maybe the most important book on my shelf, but sometimes more information than I want to sit and mindlessly digest. Taschen's new two-volume offering, "Ultimate Collectors Watches" by Charlotte and Peter Fiell, bridges the g...

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Delphis Glacier Monochrome
Chronoswiss Delphis Glacier Yesterday

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Delphis Glacier

The Delphis collection by Chronoswiss is home to increasingly expressive editions. The colourful and technically elaborate Delphis Firestarter, the refined Delphis Art Deco, the decorative and contemporary Delphis Dracula, Horizon and Dune, or the Delphis Sub Zero, inspired by glaciers and bright blue Arctic skies, all these and more were used by the Lucerne-based independent […]

Introducing – The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech to Join the Permanent Collection Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Yesterday

Introducing – The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech to Join the Permanent Collection

Blancpain expands the Fifty Fathoms collection and presents the new Fifty Fathoms Tech Ref. 5019A, a professional dive watch derived from the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa unveiled in 2023 and made specifically for closed-circuit rebreather divers and underwater explorers. The new version brings the same concept to a more universal watch, now featuring a date […]

The Swatch Collaboration Effect — Here’s What Happened (This Time) Fratello
Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Yesterday

The Swatch Collaboration Effect — Here’s What Happened (This Time)

The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop watch resulted in long queues at Swatch boutiques worldwide. We witnessed the chaos and mayhem at several of them on May 16th. Police had to enforce order, stores had to close, mall owners were angry, and managers of nearby shops were pissed because they couldn’t open or had […] Visit The Swatch Collaboration Effect — Here’s What Happened (This Time) to read the full article.

Hands-On With Cartier’s Most Versatile Santos de Cartier Yet? WatchAdvice
Cartier s Most Versatile Santos Yesterday

Hands-On With Cartier’s Most Versatile Santos de Cartier Yet?

I take Cartier’s titanium version of the Santos de Cartier hands-on to see if it really is the more versatile option in the brand’s signature collection. What We Love: A fresh take on a Cartier icon Much more suited as a daily wearer Light, robust and still has a sense of elegance What We Don’t: No open caseback for the 1847 MC movement Price point may feel high compared to other sports watches that also showcase movement Would love to see more dial colours for variation Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It’s not every day that we see Cartier venture outside the norm with the Santos de Cartier collection. For years, this collection has been one of the more appealing sporty-dressy everyday watches on the market, bringing together sporty proportions, a clean dial aesthetic, and a bracelet design that wraps beautifully around the wrist. But what has made it such a standout and appealing choice is that unmistakable Cartier charm: refined, instantly recognisable, and versatile enough to sit somewhere between a sports watch with dressy appeal and a daily wearer. The Santos’s history goes all the way back to 1904. As the story goes, Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed a practical way to tell the time while flying. Rather than having to reach for a pocket watch mid-flight, which was the norm at the time, Santos-Dumont wanted something tha...

Introducing – Kiwame Tokyo Releases the New Kubo Collection Monochrome
Kiwame Tokyo Yesterday

Introducing – Kiwame Tokyo Releases the New Kubo Collection

Kiwame Tokyo is a young Japanese microbrand founded in 2025 by watch industry veteran Masami Watanabe, dedicated to “honest watchmaking” from Asakusa, Tokyo. By this, Watanabe refers to timeless, well-finished and designed watches at accessible prices that steer clear of artifice and superficiality. The strong Calatrava dress-watch vibe of the debut Kurotsuki and Usuki models […]

Introducing: The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu — 2026 Racing Edition Fratello
Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Yesterday

Introducing: The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu — 2026 Racing Edition

Today, the 44th historical re-enactment of the Mille Miglia begins. The race, featuring more than 400 classic race cars, starts in Brescia and ends this Saturday in Rome. While the spectacular figure-eight route might not be a proper race anymore, it’s still exciting for so many other reasons. It’s quite the spectacle to watch a […] Visit Introducing: The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu — 2026 Racing Edition to read the full article.

Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition Yesterday

Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai

Making its debut in Shanghai, Oyster Story is an all-encompassing, immersive exhibition to mark the centenary of the Rolex Oyster water-resistant watch case, arguably the foundational achievement of the world’s largest luxury watch brand. Oyster Story takes place at June 10-28 at the West Bund Dome Art Center, a former cement factory in a district that was once an industrial area but is now being transformed into an arts and culture hub. The large, domed-shaped building on the banks of the Huangpu River covers almost 100,000 square feet, allowing for a comprehensive journey into the Oyster and Rolex history. The exhibition includes historical Rolex watches, including the actual timepieces worn by explorers and adventurers on landmark expeditions. The watches on show comprise those owned by Rolex “as well as privately owned watches kindly loaned for the event” according to the brand. Also on show is an in-depth look at modern-day Rolex watchmaking. “Cases, bezels, bracelets, dials, materials, movements: every stage of watchmaking is showcased here”, allowing a look into arguably the most advanced high-end-industrial watch manufacturing in Switzerland. The brand’s advances in timekeeping are also illustrated by the atomic clock developed by Rolex. Amongst other things it serves as a reference clock for Rolex watchmaking. Oyster Story is free to enter and open to the public.  

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Yesterday

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink”

Patek Phillippe’s 2026 collection is diverse, but one of my favourites is paradoxically one of the least novel: the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016 with a metallic “sand beige” dial and rose gold case. This is merely a new dial for a model that’s been in the collection for 20 years so it is not genuinely novel – though the movement has been upgraded and improved over that period – but it is appealing. The new ref. 5396R is handsome, and importantly, subtly evocative of vintage “pink on pink” watches, which pairs well with its traditional layout. Initial thoughts For anyone who likes old-school Patek Philippe design, the new ref. 5396R is likely the best looking annual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. Both the colour and style are classic with a capital “C”. Ironically, it is perhaps the least interesting because neither the design nor movement are new, but this illustrates the fact that the appeal of a watch is more than just intrinsic feature and specs. Good looks, however, come at a price. The new ref. 5396R costs CHF54,000, or about US$67,000. It’s expensive but not outrageously so compared to the competition. For example, it’s about 5% pricier than the recent Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar, which is a better watch in most tangible respects, but not quite as pretty as the Patek Philippe. The premium pricing reflects Patek Philippe’s privilege as it has both the status and history to price as it desires – which the brand deserves. But ...

Timex Expands their Atelier Line with New Chronographs Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Atelier Wen Yesterday

Timex Expands their Atelier Line with New Chronographs

Lots of ink has been spilled in the short span of time since the launch of the Formex Aria on the topic of small brands (microbrands, if you must) going upmarket and playing at significantly higher price points than consumers are accustomed to. When a brand releases a watch that is multiple times the cost of the watches they are already associated with, it can cause a near panic in the watch enthusiast community. Lots of “HOW COULD THEY?” type comments appear on websites like ours, Instagram, and over beers at local meetups as collectors grapple with the idea that watch brands, which are also businesses that support the lives of real human beings, might attempt to make the most of the increased popularity our hobby has received in these past few years.  And that’s really what it is, right? The mainstreaming of watches has led brands like Formex, Christopher Ward, Atelier Wen, and others to feel confident in their expansion upmarket. Gone are the days when microbrands appeal solely to value conscious consumers – they have the eye of at least some traditional luxury buyers as well, and the ambitious watches they’ve developed and the prices being asked are a reflection of that. Timex, of course, is not a microbrand, but their Atelier line is a significant move into a higher pricing tier, and some of those same dynamics are in play, I think with the release of two new chronographs in the brand’s highest end line of watches.  You might remember the Atelier collect...

Introducing: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition Yesterday

Introducing: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition

What We Know Among collectors I know and respect, Chopard has been somewhat quietly picking up steam. The launch of a dateless L.U.C. 1860 with a rosy salmon-toned dial in 2023 was a bit of a turning point, bringing the model—compact and beautifully finished—to a broader audience, and with it, Chopard. Revolution was early to the party with its own limited edition, featuring untreated 3N yellow gold and a Lucent Steel case. For that release, the dials were made by Metalem, which makes the dials for Philippe Dufour's Simplicity. Now, the idea is back with a new model with similar dial treatment, with a twist. The new L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition comes 26 years after the groundbreaking Quattro model, which featured a 9-day power reserve. This time, the same untreated 3N yellow gold dial is made in-house by the Chopard team, while the watch is still cased in Chopard's proprietary Lucent steel. There is a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock, small seconds, and a date at 6 o'clock. The hour and minute hands are high-polished dauphine shapes with kite-shaped applied hour markers that have a faceted mirror-polished finish. One of the reasons that collectors value Chopard's L.U.C line so much isn't just the quality of the function of the movements, but the quality of the finishing. Yes, the caliber 98.01-L movement doesn't have sharp edges for interior angles like has become so popular these days, but the Côtes de Genève and anglage are still sublime. The four large...

Introducing: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection Brings An Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch To The Swiss Value Brand (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Raymond Weil A.R.T Collection Brings 2 days ago

Introducing: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection Brings An Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch To The Swiss Value Brand (Live Pics)

What We Know Raymond Weil has been on a roll as of late, gaining plenty of credibility with the enthusiast crowd with models like its classic sector dial Millesime, the elegantly shaped Toccata, and the watch-nerdy and sold-out limited edition chronograph The Fifty, marking its half-century anniversary. For its next trick, the Geneva-based family-owned brand is jumping into a crowded and competitive category, the integrated bracelet sport watch. Meet the A.R.T. collection, Raymond Weil's take on a stylish yet practical, take-you-just-about-anywhere, Swiss-made watch.  With a steel case, the  A.R.T. is 38 millimeters in diameter and 9.95mm thick. The case, bracelet design, and finishing represent a step up for the accessible brand, with polished bevels, an elegantly curved shape, and chamfered center links on the H-link integrated bracelet, which Raymond Weil says is a first for the brand.  The round, smooth brushed bezel achieves a distinct design and shape from the faceted, polished cutout features at 3, 6, 9, and 12, while eschewing bolts or screws. The case is gently curved with bevels emphasizing angles at the sides and integrated lugs. With a push/pull-stamped and fluted crown, the watch offers 100 meters (330 feet) of water resistance, adding to its practical appeal.  The 38mm A.R.T. comes in three sunray-finished dial colors: metallic blue, a black dial the brand calls 'graphite,' as well as a 'sage grey' dial. There are two bicolor versions with a gold bezel ...