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Six exciting new chronographs from the post-pandemic season
We admit it. We have an obsession with chronographs. So we celebrate the complication! Here are six of our favourites from the post-pandemic season.
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Deployant
We admit it. We have an obsession with chronographs. So we celebrate the complication! Here are six of our favourites from the post-pandemic season.
Worn & Wound
Vulcain has been around in one form or another since the mid-1800s. A few ownership changes, some rocky years, a shutdown, and two eventual revivals make up the long and rocky road that is the Vulcain brand. If you’ve heard of the brand before, it’s most likely that the Cricket is the watch you’re familiar with. The Cricket gets the most attention, being worn on the wrists of American Presidents and having a unique alarm complication that made it stand out from the pack. While the Cricket is great, there’s another watch that doesn’t get quite as much attention, but definitely deserves it, and that’s the Chronograph 1970’s. This new release from Vulcain is a true-to-form recreation of a watch they released back in the 1970s, right down to the spot-on vintage proportions. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at this charming 38mm chronograph from Vulcain. $2781 Vulcain Continues Revival With New Chronograph 1970’s Case Stainless Steel Movement Sellita SW510 M BH Dial Black on Black, semi-gloss sunray Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Double domed sapphire with AR coating Strap Black leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 38x46mm Thickness 12.4mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty 2yr Price $2781 Case Vulcain’s vintage proportions and style are spot-on here. Measuring 38mm wide by 12.4mm thick (a hefty portion of that taken up by the double domed sapphire crystal), the Chronograph wears like a dream. It’s not just about the dimensions, because the ...
Hodinkee
We say Happy Birthday to the Italian icon that proves you can wear a watch and be glamorous all at once.
Deployant
Patek Philippe introduces its first Aquanaut model with the annual calendar complication, the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001.
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Discover the fascinating history of Vacheron Constantin, one of the oldest and most prestigious watchmakers in the world. From its founding in Geneva in 1755 to its innovative timepieces and iconic designs, learn about the brand's rich heritage and enduring legacy in the luxury watch industry.
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Worn & Wound
It’s hard to imagine how fine a more or less simple steel watch can be. You’ve likely encountered high-end steel watches from the typical luxury houses that come to mind. For example, Omega, Rolex, or Grand Seiko make stunning steel watches with excellent finishing. It’s fair to ask yourself, how much better or different can finishing get? And then, if you’re lucky enough to have the opportunity, you get to see Naoya Hida’s watches, and you realize that a seemingly simple steel watch still has plenty of room for elevation. The difference isn’t in broad strokes, it’s in the minutia. “Fit and finish” turned up that much more. Details are finished by hand for that wabi-sabi effect of subtle variations and vibrations that add life. I once heard a person refer to something as having “gravity” to define the “X” factor that sets something of quality apart. As a physical, unavoidable force of attraction, this makes sense. While it might take a loupe to truly appreciate the subtleties of the finish on a Naoya Hida watch, it pulls you in with a force beyond your control. I’ve had the experience of seeing the Naoya Hida watches twice now, about a year apart from each other, both times at Mark Cho’s Armoury location in NYC’s Tribeca. The first time was certainly exciting, but the second, which was just a few weeks ago, was revelatory. Perhaps that is because Mr. Hida, and his engraver Keisuke Kano, came to the US to present the watches in person. The ad...
Worn & Wound
Are you ready for the final frontier? Or rather, the next frontier? A new frontier, at the very least? Yes, all signs point to a big change in the world of watches on the horizon. A new world, or I guess frontier to be consistent, where you don’t have to win the lotto, inherit tons of wealth, or be uncommonly successful to buy an exotic watch. A world where brands that were once considered too small to matter are standing their ground against giants, showing that with a passion for watches and an innovative spirit, the seemingly impossible can occur. This is a very dramatic way of saying that there have been some cool releases in the last few years that have been accelerating in their frequency, indicating the beginning of a new trend of the previously “exotic” becoming more obtainable. We’ve seen affordable wandering hours pop up for a few years from the likes of Gorilla and Atowak. We’ve seen unexpected collaborations between approachable brands and high-end independents like Louis Erard and Vianney Halter. We’ve seen high-end independents branch out into the approachable space with offshoots like Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoke, SUF Helsinki by Stepan Sarpaneva, and M.A.D. Editions by Max Büsser. We’ve seen Christopher Ward shock the world by releasing a dial-side sonnerie au passage with the C1 Bel Canto. We’ve seen more too, so perhaps the trend is already here. Reinforcing this is the subject of today’s review, the Argon Space One. The first watch by...
Worn & Wound
For the last year, Swatch has existed primarily as the brand that makes and sells the MoonSwatch, their enormous, crossover hit made in partnership with Omega. It’s tough to underestimate the impact of the MoonSwatch on the watch world, mostly because its impact transcends the watch world. Your friends and family who are not part of the hobby, don’t read this site and others like it, and may not even own a watch, are almost certainly aware of the MoonSwatch. They’ve seen an advertisement for it, or have heard about it on the news, or perhaps they’ve stumbled onto the impressive MoonSwatch displays in a Swatch store, only to be told that the watches aren’t actually available to buy. Swatch has recently upped the ante somewhat on the MoonSwatch front by offering extremely limited versions with gold plated seconds hands, and it has me (and others) wondering if the hype for these watches has crested, and longing for Swatch to go back to making really cool Swatches like the ones so many of us grew up with. The truth is, Swatch never stopped making exactly those kinds of watches, but they’ve been somewhat lost in the hysteria for the MoonSwatch. Now, though, comes a series of watches that I think might actually rival the MoonSwatch in terms of enthusiast interest, at least in some quarters. The latest entry in the Swatch Art Journey collection (that has already seen releases this year with watches based on pieces by Roy Lichtenstein, René Magritte, and others) is ...
Worn & Wound
As I was considering how to begin this review, I found myself thinking about my own perception of how micro-brands get their start. Many of my favorite brands seem to come to life fully formed, with a watch or small collection that would appear to completely distill their essence, as if they’ve already gone through every possible growing pain. In the past few months I’ve come across more and more brands that seem to have figured it out immediately, with introductory watches that appear to be the product of a seasoned brand. Atmoss is the latest brand to make me feel this way with its debut watch, the SR-01. A clean and comfortable design presented as being a modern interpretation of a traditional pilot watch. One that has enough of what matters and none of what doesn’t, at least in my opinion. While pilot watches are not my primary focus as an enthusiast and collector, the SR-01 wound up winning me over, and has a suite of impressive specs that make it a legitimate entry into the genre at a price point that makes sense for those who might want to dabble in a watch with an aviation theme. The Right Specifications for the Right Price Although I try as much as possible to not put the words “specifications” and “price” in the same sentence, sometimes it’s impossible not to. Especially when the price tag of a watch falls well below the $500 mark. The SR-01 has a lot going for it considering its accessibility. First, reasonable dimensions with a case diameter...
Worn & Wound
The transformation of Bravur, the small Swedish microbrand that has always taken a demonstrably Scandinavian approach to their watch designs, into a boutique label focusing largely on cycling influenced watches, has to be one of the least expected developments in our space over the past few years. Maybe it shouldn’t have been, though. Brand founders Magnus Äppelryd and Johan Sahlin are both cycling enthusiasts, and the design inspiration for their watches has always come from a personal place. Maybe it was only a matter of time? Of course, not all of the watches in their collection are cycling inspired, but limited edition chronographs released to mark major pro cycling races have become something of an expectation at this point, and it has changed the brand identity in a real way. The latest watch in this vein, the La Corsa Rosa III, continues the trend while establishing some new design notes as well. I’ll come right out and say at the outset that I am not a cycling enthusiast. I don’t even really keep up with following cycling’s professional ranks in a casual way. I think that means I’m probably not the target market for these watches, but I have to say, I’ve always been really fond of them. I love watches that appeal to a very specific niche, the narrower the better, and these seem to fit that bill nicely. I’m also a big fan of the creative use of color on watch dials, and the general format Bravur has followed by borrowing traditional colors associate...
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Worn & Wound
There’s a certain level of homeland pride in every way that Bremont operates. It’s apparent in their designs and palpable throughout their entire company from top to bottom. The Giles brothers have made it their life’s mission to produce beautifully British-made mechanical watches and if there needs to be any more confirmation of how successfully that’s going, then let “The Wing”, Bremont’s vast campus and headquarters in Henley which has subsequently brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores, put any queries to bed. As Bremont ambassador and now friend of Worn & Wound, Alex Bescoby eloquently put it in a recent interview, “Bremont is all about beautifully putting together traditional and British design, and celebrating that.” Well, for the folks living across the pond, there’s lots to celebrate as this past weekend, in front of 2,200 ceremony attendees and millions watching around the world, King Charles III was crowned as Great Britain’s new monarch. It’s only fitting that Bremont, who already has an ongoing partnership with the Ministry of Defence (MoD) to honor His Majesty’s Armed Forces, has released two limited edition models that marks a moment in history with the coronation of His Majesty. The MBII King Charles III Limited Edition largely retains the familiar design cues of the Martin-Baker collection – dual crown configuration, internal rotating bezel, a distinct knurled barrel design and internal case reinforcements. As every other Bremo...
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Last year marked the inaugural Formula 1 race in Miami at the newly constructed International Autodrome, the second F1 race in the United States of the season before adding a third in Las Vegas this year (see our recap of the race experience right here). To celebrate the occasion, Mercedes team sponsor, IWC, released a Petronas-AMG themed Pilots Chronograph 41, featuring bright Petronas green dial accents, and a titanium case (see our live look at that watch right here). As we approach round 5 of the 2023 Formula 1 season, once again in Miami, IWC has returned to the Petronas Pilots Chronograph 41 with a bright new strap option befitting of the venue, and matching the special livery seen on the Mercedes cars for the race. The IWC Pilot Chronograph hasn’t always hit the right notes for our taste, but when it received a sized down 41mm case back in 2021, it started to make a lot more sense. Throw in the surprisingly excellent Tribute to 3705 and the watch really hit its stride. When it received a titanium case last year in Miami, the watch overcame one of its biggest downsides: its heft. The lightweight case made a huge difference (similar to the Ceratanium Tribute model), and remains a feature we’d like to see added to more regular production references of the watch. As it stands now, if you want the titanium case, you had better like bright colors as this Petronas green dial is the only way to get it. Thankfully, the Petronas green works well here, and while it’s cer...
Deployant
Franck Muller adds the art of Damascus steel to their Vanguard collection. Featuring the highly respected metal not only in the case, but also on the dial.
Worn & Wound
I must admit that I have been admiring this LA-based microbrand from afar for quite some time. I promise I will try to avoid the easy pun about taking “Nodus” despite my Dad status and love of cringy, unfunny jokes. Although Nodus watches have been a regular feature on my Instagram feed and at RedBar events, I haven’t had the chance to try them on or examine them closely myself. So when Nodus reached out and offered me a sneak peek at their new Unity line of watches, I jumped at the opportunity. Soon after, my curiosity got the best of me and I asked for a review sample. After seeing the watch in photographs, I was intrigued by its unique concept and bold use of color. It struck me as distinct from anything else in the Nodus catalog, particularly in contrast to their previous Duality Unity with its dual crown and inner rotating bezel. Still, I had reservations about where a watch like this could fit into my collection. A few days later, it arrived, and the timing couldn’t have been better. I wore it during a sunny Easter weekend and for a few days at the beach, and my initial intrigue quickly turned into fondness. The attention to detail, comfort, and playful color scheme charmed me. $700 Hands On with the All New Nodus Unity Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Pink/Blue Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 150 Dimensions 36.5 x 43.5mm Thickness 11.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $700 The first...
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Worn & Wound
Pardon the pun, but some things in the watch industry tend to happen like clockwork. Every spring, brands seem to understand that a selection of bright colors is going to put us in just the right mood heading into the warmer months, and we see releases from brands across the horological map opting for a rainbow of pastels and brighter tones that make you want to get outdoors, smell the flowers, fight your allergies, and all of the other springtime rituals we can’t get enough of. I’m not complaining: I love color, and I especially love thawing out of those long New Hampshire winters, so a release like the new Timex T80 Hyperbrights just puts a smile on my face. The Hyperbrights collection takes the classic T80 format and puts it through what is almost a psychedelic lens. What we have here are a trio of watches, each featuring a multi-tone dial and gradient resin straps that shifts from the dominant color to adjacent hues as it wraps around the wrist. The Blue Haze features a stainless steel case and complementary tones of light blue and green, and the Purple Haze is the latest watch to include what I think is clearly the color of the moment, along with darker tones of blue. Rounding out the trio we get the Pink Haza, which matches elements of the strap to the gold tone case for a rich, warm look. Timex does a great job of introducing new concepts and themes through watches that are familiar, and that’s exactly what they’ve done here, taking an 80s classic like the...
Worn & Wound
The worlds of photography and horology are inextricably linked in a number of ways. Both, of course, deal in precision. And time is essential to watchmaking in a very obvious way, and to photography in more subtle ways – the length of an exposure, of course, but also in how an image captures a single moment, and how many images, across a longer period of time, give us a particular impression of a subject. It shouldn’t be surprising to anyone that the Venn Diagram between these two pursuits covers so much shared ground, and it similarly shouldn’t be shocking that established brands in each enthusiast area have made attempts to explicitly link their products to those of their counterpart. Zach just brought us a review of an interesting photography themed watch from Horage, and now we have news of a new watch from Leica, the well respected German camera manufacturer. As seasoned as Leica is in the world of cameras, they are brand new to watches, only dipping into the space last year with their debut collection. This new pair of watches represent what is essentially a new colorway for the watches that were unveiled last year. The new ZM 1 and ZM 2 references seen here are inspired by Leica’s latest black and white only camera, the M11 Monochrom. These Monochrom Edition watches, as you’ve probably guessed, have been sapped of all color, with a dial that is essentially black on black, with only the most minimal stark white accents on the dial that draw your attention...
Deployant
Read a detailed review of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon watch, featuring a cushion-shaped steel case, a fumé dial, and an in-house automatic movement with a 3-day power reserve. This vintage-inspired special edition watch comes with an integrated steel bracelet and is water resistant to 12 ATM.
Hodinkee
The Antiquarian Horologist will examine the history behind the lineage of the mechanical singing-bird along with a case study.
Deployant
After almost 30 years of absence, Manufacture France Ebauches returns to making mechanical movement manufacture under the auspices of the Festina Group.
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Hodinkee
Lifetime membership card sells for record-breaking $20,000.
Deployant
Hublot releases another collaboration with Maxime Plescia-Buchi, this time imprinting the geometric Sang Bleu prism on to the Spirit of Big Bang collection.
Worn & Wound
Hublot and tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi are back again for another entry in the Sang Bleu collection, a series of watches named for Plescia-Buchi’s tattoo studios located in Los Angeles, Zurich, and London. The Sang Bleu watches always incorporate complex geometry and the watch design equivalent of the intricate line work that is core to Plesia-Buchi’s design language. These design elements translate remarkably well to a watch, if you’re at all inclined toward the abstract, at least. Up until now, the Big Bang has been Plesia-Buchi’s preferred canvas, but that changes here with a selection of watches using the barrel shaped Spirit of Big Bang as a starting point. As with previous Sang Bleu watches, the new editions seen here are marked by a series of facets throughout the case that create a compelling, sculpted look. The overlapping geometric shapes have a grid-like consistency and at some angles appear to take on the appearance of armor. Hublot has given Plescia-Buchi a great deal of freedom to work outside the normal constraints of the Spirit of Big Bang case shape. While that case is the clear inspiration for these watches and certainly falls under its larger umbrella, the lines of the case have been reworked to a certain extent, and the impression it gives from the front is quite a bit different in these Sang Bleu watches. The dial is sapphire and provides a view to the skeletonized chronograph movement underneath it. Time is read by rotating disc “...
Deployant
Piaget releases an e-commerce exclusive Polo Date 36mm. The novelty is in stainless steel with a midnight blue dial and leather strap.
Worn & Wound
The Collective has announced their latest Portfolio series watch done in collaboration with Czapek, and it’s just in time to capture some major summer vibes. The watch, which is called the P.04 Lanikai, takes inspiration from Hawaii’s unique beaches with a conceptual dial that captures their vibrant colors and textures. It’s a dial you can almost hear and feel, taking full advantage of the given real estate by forgoing even hour markers to maximize the feeling of connection with the source of inspiration. The concept is built within Czapek’s Antarctique 40.5mm steel case with integrated bracelet, and as fun as the dial is, it’s all business around back. The watch is officially the Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective, and the brand claims that three years of design, development and prototyping went into bringing it to life. Much of that revolves around the novel enamel dial which evokes those soft wave patterns of a sandy beach. The dial work was done by the artisans at Donzé Cadrans, who had to develop a process to create the unique scene in enamel. Their work begins with a concave blank, which creates the sense of depth to the dial even in its finished form. Next, the texture is stamped from a hand-engraved mold before the enamel itself is layered and fired. Enamel is notoriously tricky to get right, and the uneven depth at play here didn’t exactly help the situation, but there’s no arguing with the end result. All of that work is apparent at a glance...
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