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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.
The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 50 Years of the Nautilus SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 50 Years Jun 18, 2026

The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 50 Years of the Nautilus

The Patek Philippe Museum turns 25 this year, but the Geneva institution has bigger things on its mind. Open now through early next year, 1976 – 2026 Nautilus 50th Anniversary is a thematic exhibition that explores the history of the brand’s emblematic sports watch. The exhibit will showcase key references that have defined the trajectory of the Nautilus, which was designed by Gérald Genta and launched in 1976, at a time when the idea of a steel watch was generally thought to be beneath a brand like Patek Philippe. The success of the Nautilus would ultimately validate the brand’s belief that design and craftsmanship could transcend mere material, and helped accelerate Genta’s storied career as a designer. Naturally, the exhibition will feature each of the four 50th anniversary references released this year including the ref. 5610P. Past visitors will observe the exhibit is located on the museum’s top floor, which has been transformed with a temporary 1970s-inspired makeover to give the Nautilus its proper setting. Exhibition details The exhibition is included with general admission to the Patek Philippe Museum, which is open Tuesday through Friday, 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm, Saturday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm, and Sunday from 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm. The anniversary exhibit is scheduled to run until early 2027. Timed tickets can be purchased online, and advance reservation is recommended.  

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First Look – New Silk-Inspired Dials and a 38mm Case Join the Seiko Presage Classic Series Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series Few Jun 18, 2026

First Look – New Silk-Inspired Dials and a 38mm Case Join the Seiko Presage Classic Series

Few line-ups in Seiko‘s catalogue seem as focused on dials as the Presage Classic Series. While most new releases are quick to talk about case materials, bezels, or mechanics, the conversation here almost always starts with colour and texture. We have seen that through porcelain dials, open-heart references, and more recently, the 36mm “Edo Silk” […]

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Introducing: Citizen's New "The Citizen" And Attesa Recrystalized Titanium Limited Edition Eco-Drives Hodinkee
Citizen s New Jun 17, 2026

Introducing: Citizen's New "The Citizen" And Attesa Recrystalized Titanium Limited Edition Eco-Drives

What We Know Citizen recently announced two new limited-edition models as part of its celebration of the 50th Anniversary of its light-powered Eco-Drive movements. For those not in the know, Eco-Drive relies on any light source—not just solar—to power the movement and build a pretty impressive power reserve (in most cases). That adage holds true for the watches that they released most recently. Let's start with the one that will probably resonate the most with our audience: the new limited-edition version of "The Citizen." Limited to only 400 pieces, the watch features a relatively classic case design, measuring 40mm by 12.2mm, with the brand's proprietary Super Titanium case treated with Duratect Platinum. This is capped by what the brand calls its deep indigo-blue Tosa washi paper dial, with gold-colored (not true gold) accents on the applied indices and date surround. Washi paper, a special type of Japanese mulberry paper, was hand-dyed using natural lye fermentation to create a deep indigo color while preserving the paper's texture. More specifically, the color, called Kachi-iro, is a deep shade of indigo that is traditionally considered lucky because it is pronounced in the same way as the word for "victory color." Inside the case is the Cal. A060 Eco-Drive movement. When fully powered up, it has 18 months of power when in power-save mode. In addition to hours, minutes, and seconds (and hands and indices with lume), the movement has a clever perpetual calendar set...

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Vacheron Constantin Brings Back the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Brings Back Jun 17, 2026

Vacheron Constantin Brings Back the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

What is the ultimate first world problem? I can think of a handful. There’s the classic notion that we just have too much content to scroll through, stream, and consume. As the Boss put it, there’s 57 channels and nothin’ on. As I sit here typing up this article on hot early summer day with my AC blasting, I’m realizing it’s getting cold enough in here that I might need to add a layer. Woe is me! Just a few weeks ago, I bought a new iPhone and quickly found that Apple Music hadn’t automatically moved over all of my locally downloaded tunes during the initial data transfer. I was pretty disappointed when I realized only the second half of Turn on the Bright Lights was available to me on a late night drive home over the weekend. I just want to hear “Obstacle 1”! These are all annoyances, for sure. But none of them truly compare to the King of First World Problems, which is very obviously not being able to keep your perpetual calendar sufficiently wound. I mean, have you tried to reset one of these things recently? It can be really frustrating. Plenty of brands, like IWC earlier this year, have made moves to make their perpetual calendar movements more forgiving when resetting. Gone are the days, hopefully, when jumping past the current year means an expensive trip back to the manufacture in Switzerland.  Vacheron Constantin has a slightly different solution, which is to enable your perpetual calendar to remain wound for weeks at a time by allowing the wearer...

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First Look – Certina Doubles Down with the New DS Super PH2000M Sea Turtle Consverancy (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Certina Doubles Down Jun 17, 2026

First Look – Certina Doubles Down with the New DS Super PH2000M Sea Turtle Consverancy (Incl. Video)

Certina has a very long legacy in keeping watches safe from the effects of shocks and water, dating back to the Double Security system introduced in 1959. This has remained a key element in the brand’s watches, which it expanded last year with the DS Concept Extreme Shock Resistance system. Doubling down on this legacy, […]

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H. Moser Introduces the New Pioneer Centre Seconds “Sun Berry” Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Jun 17, 2026

H. Moser Introduces the New Pioneer Centre Seconds “Sun Berry”

I was trying to think back to when I first really became aware of H. Moser, and I have to think it was probably right around the time the Swiss Alp series was gaining traction (and some notoriety) in the watch community. Obviously that wasn’t the genesis of the brand, but it marked a turning point in the larger awareness of Moser in the cultural imagination of watch enthusiasts. I hate using the word “disruptive” but it really felt that way in the moment, playing as it did with the well understood shape of the world’s most popular smart watch, and making an attempt to send a statement about the importance of traditional Swiss watchmaking through aesthetic codes.  It was also around that time that Moser really began leaning into color as a defining trait of their design language, particularly through “Concept” dials which completely abandon markings and branding of any kind. They never really completely turned away from this, but as they’ve expanded into new complications, experimented with Vantablack, and have generally leaned into watches that sit at ever higher price points, some of the purely playful colorful stuff that reminds me of that initial period of Moser discovery has felt like it’s been moved to the background. The latest Pioneer Centre Seconds in a colorway the brand is calling “Sun Berry” is the first reference from Moser in a long time that really brings me back to those earlier, pre-pandemic days.  Collectors and enthusiasts will argue...

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Daring To Dive Deeper: The Certina DS Super PH2000M STC Fratello
Certina DS Super PH2000M STC Jun 17, 2026

Daring To Dive Deeper: The Certina DS Super PH2000M STC

I can’t believe how quickly time passes. It feels like just yesterday that I had a chance to check out the impressive Certina DS Super PH1000M STC. A quick peek tells me it was almost two years to the day that Certina unveiled the watch, celebrating the brand’s ongoing collaborative efforts with the non-profit Sea […] Visit Daring To Dive Deeper: The Certina DS Super PH2000M STC to read the full article.

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Q & A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Jun 17, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Q & A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team

This week on The Business of Watches, we take your questions on the business of timekeeping. We're joined by a swath of the Hodinkee team, including Editor-in-Chief James Stacey, Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich, and Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang.  We're answering your questions and marking 30 episodes of BoW. You submitted some excellent questions, including how changes in 3D printing technology will impact watch movement manufacturing, whether watch brands consider enthusiasts' preferences in their design and release schedules, and what the future of multi-brand watch boutiques looks like.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversations. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes1:18 F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold (Hodinkee)2:35 Kari Voutilainen 2:47 Marteau: The Heat Wave4:08 The Barrelhand Monolith Has Landed (Hodinkee) 11:45 Ming Polymesh (Hodinkee) 12:40 Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito (The Business of Watches) 13:10 Peanuts Watches by Citizen (collectpeanuts.com) 15:03 Timex 15:50 We Criticize The Wrong Thing When We Attack ...

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Introducing – Bremont is Back to Military-Approved Watches with the HMAF Collection Monochrome
Bremont Jun 17, 2026

Introducing – Bremont is Back to Military-Approved Watches with the HMAF Collection

Bremont’s lineup of rugged pilot and military tool watches has earned the British brand commissions for bespoke watches for military personnel and specialist groups around the world. Since 2019, Bremont has been permitted to use the signs, symbols and heraldic badges of the Ministry of Defence’s (MoD) three armed services – the Royal Navy, the […]

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Introducing – The Sizzling Hot Colours of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sun Berry Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Jun 17, 2026

Introducing – The Sizzling Hot Colours of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sun Berry

Nothing captures the relaxed vibe of summer quite like vibrant colours. Launched in 2015, H. Moser & Cie.’s Pioneer Centre Seconds was conceived as the brand’s everyday, all-purpose watch with a robust, versatile personality. Translating Moser’s minimalist, high-end watchmaking into a more wearable, active format, the Pioneer flaunts a more muscular, water-resistant case construction without […]

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First Look – The New-Generation Ulysse Nardin Freak X; Smaller, More Versatile and with new Movement Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Smaller More Jun 17, 2026

First Look – The New-Generation Ulysse Nardin Freak X; Smaller, More Versatile and with new Movement

In 2019, Ulysse Nardin launched the Freak X. More compact, more accessible and equipped with a conventional crown, it retained the essence of the original Freak (no hands, no dial, and no crown) introduced in 2001 by visionary watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, while adapting it for everyday wear and a broader clientele. Now, as the manufacture […]

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The Evolution Of A Freak: Introducing The “Crowned” Ulysse Nardin Freak [X] Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Freak [X] Jun 17, 2026

The Evolution Of A Freak: Introducing The “Crowned” Ulysse Nardin Freak [X]

The Freak is no ordinary watch. It was nothing short of a watchmaking revolution when it came out, and to this day, it remains an oddity that speaks to ingenuity and originality. The crownless watch was a trendsetter. It opened the door for Nouvelle Horlogerie watchmakers to come onto the world stage and, in the […] Visit The Evolution Of A Freak: Introducing The “Crowned” Ulysse Nardin Freak [X] to read the full article.

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Industry News – The EPHJ 2026, Where the Future of Watchmaking Takes Shape Behind The Scenes Monochrome
Jun 17, 2026

Industry News – The EPHJ 2026, Where the Future of Watchmaking Takes Shape Behind The Scenes

Every June, Geneva becomes the meeting point for the world of high precision. Held annually at Palexpo (June 16 to 19, for the 2026 edition), the EPHJ trade show brings together more than 20,000 visitors and over 800 exhibitors from the watchmaking, jewellery, microtechnology and medical technology sectors, making it the largest high-precision industry exhibition […]

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The Updated Traska Venturer GMT Doesn’t Wander Far — Just Far Enough Fratello
Jun 17, 2026

The Updated Traska Venturer GMT Doesn’t Wander Far — Just Far Enough

Traska is known for incrementally updating its existing collection. This has been a key factor in the young Floridian brand’s success. But on top of that, we have seen the new Traska Chronograph take a surprising design direction. Additionally, founder Jon Mack unveiled plans to release a new Jump Hour watch. So what happens when […] Visit The Updated Traska Venturer GMT Doesn’t Wander Far — Just Far Enough to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Hanhart Thermosphere Limited Edition, a Purpose-Built Watch Inspired by Firefighting Operations Monochrome
Ming Jun 16, 2026

Introducing – The Hanhart Thermosphere Limited Edition, a Purpose-Built Watch Inspired by Firefighting Operations

German watchmaker Hanhart presents the new Thermosphere Limited Edition, a model created in partnership with the Baden-Württemberg State Firefighters Association. Based on the robust Aquasphere diving watch, the Thermosphere adapts the concept to an entirely different environment, replacing underwater timing with a system inspired by breathing apparatus monitors used in firefighting operations. Limited to 112 […]

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Fratello Is Hiring: Staff Photographer In Our HQ In The Hague, Part Time Fratello
Jun 16, 2026

Fratello Is Hiring: Staff Photographer In Our HQ In The Hague, Part Time

We are once again looking to expand our team: Fratello’s reach continues to expand, and we’re growing our content creation capabilities to match the demands of an increasingly engaged global audience. If this sounds exciting to you, and you would like to join our growing team as a photographer on a three-day-per-week basis, read on […] Visit Fratello Is Hiring: Staff Photographer In Our HQ In The Hague, Part Time to read the full article.

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Introducing – The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Radiant Tantalum Monopusher Chronograph Monochrome
Jun 16, 2026

Introducing – The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Radiant Tantalum Monopusher Chronograph

In just a few years, J.N. Shapiro, initially a niche American independent focused on exceptional guilloché dials, has become one of the most ambitious names in contemporary American watchmaking.  Founder Josh Shapiro’s Resurgence project demonstrated that high-end mechanical horology can once again be produced in the United States, and the Infinity Series has allowed him […]

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J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Radiant, a Monopusher Chronograph and an Expansion of their Infinity Series Worn & Wound
Bremont Jun 16, 2026

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Radiant, a Monopusher Chronograph and an Expansion of their Infinity Series

It’s easy to think of J.N. Shapiro as a brand largely focused on a style of watchmaking from an earlier generation. But that’s a trap. While the design language is rooted in classicism and J.N. Shapiro prides itself on the highest level execution of traditional guilloche, the brand has also been open to experimenting with materials in a way that many other contemporary indies have embraced to great success in recent years. Their new watch, the Radiant, enters the Infinity Series with a host of exotic materials at its core, and the watch serves as a reminder that while J.N. Shapiro is capable of doing things in an old school way, and might lean into that at times, the brand is not opposed to taking a modern perspective on some of these old fashioned ideas.  J.N. Shapiro’s Southern California manufacture sits at the heart of the American aerospace industry, and that connection serves as a loose inspiration for the Radiant, a new monopusher chronograph that is a bit of a sequel to their first chrono, released just last year in a very small run for Escapement, a Boston area collector’s group. Watches that are linked to aerospace are nothing new, but usually watches in this genre are conceived as fit for an astronaut, or something along those lines (there’s been a glut of space-travel oriented watches just this year, from IWC, Bremont, and others). J.N. Shapiro takes a different approach, focusing on materials that are closely tied to the industry and have unique app...

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Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Jun 16, 2026

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back

What We Know Vacheron just brought back its incredibly unique Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and it's a welcome sight for dedicated collectors of the brand, along with general enthusiasts of unexpected yet innovative takes on complicated watchmaking. If you're not familiar with the original Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, launched back in 2019, the watch offered an incredibly novel solution to a problem often found within perpetual calendar watches. Let's be honest, though the entire appeal and genius of the perpetual calendar is for someone wearing one watch all day, every day, for the whole year, watches like these are most often owned by those with a large collection to begin with. A weekend for a perpetual calendar in a watch box or drawer would mean that the complication would need to be set again after winding, and so Vacheron introduced this perpetual calendar with a whopping 65-day power reserve. To achieve this, rather than putting in an unfeasibly large mainspring in the barrel, the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar lives up to its name by offering a new system that allows for switching between two beat rates for the watch—a contemporary high-beat 5Hz frequency with a 4-day power reserve for normal timekeeping during wear, but a much slower 1.2Hz mode with that prolonged power reserve for the "Standby" phase. The Caliber 3610QP comprises two separate gear trains for the two regulating systems, with a series of differentials tha...

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First Look – A Smaller Case and Fresh Colours for the Powerful Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Monochrome
Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Since Jun 16, 2026

First Look – A Smaller Case and Fresh Colours for the Powerful Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional

Since its launch in 2021, the Seastar 2000 Professional has occupied an interesting spot in Tissot’s catalogue. For around EUR 1,000, it delivers a specification sheet that normally comes with more expensive dive watches: a helium escape valve, a ceramic insert bezel, 600m water-resistance, ISO 6425 certification, and a robust Swiss movement. In short, this […]

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Hands-On With The Farer Pilot Series II Curtis — A Fresh Take On The Pilot’s Watch Fratello
Farer Pilot Series II Curtis Jun 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Farer Pilot Series II Curtis — A Fresh Take On The Pilot’s Watch

When I think of Farer, I don’t necessarily associate the brand with pilot’s watches. Moreover, I don’t link it to any particular watch category at all, even though I’ve previously reviewed a couple of iterations of the Farer World Timer. Instead, the brand is best recognized for its compelling use of color. That said, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Farer Pilot Series II Curtis — A Fresh Take On The Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.

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Insight: A Look At The Fusee and Chain SJX Watches
Ming from Jun 16, 2026

Insight: A Look At The Fusee and Chain

The fusee and chain system is one of those terms in high horology parlance that instantly elevates the status of a given watch. And yet few appreciate the elegance and subtle complexities of this horological contraption that surprisingly predates the invention of the hairspring itself. The need for constant torque A high-performance oscillating system requires a somewhat constant power source in order to keep it swinging consistently. This issue relates to isochronism and the insufficiencies of real-world oscillators. For a watch, this means that its precision is, to a degree, dependent on how constant the torque reaching the escapement is. This is not as easy as one might think. The mainspring stores potential energy in its wound coils, which it then slowly feeds into the gear train as the barrel unwinds. Because of how the system is built, and due to physics-related constraints, the power coming from the mainspring barrel is all but constant. Ideally, the torque would be linearly decreasing — meaning that the slope of the barrel torque is directly proportional to the arming angle. Coiled mainspring inside a barrel. When a mainspring barrel is fully wound, the torque it feeds into the going train is maximal, sometimes causing the balance wheel to swing too wide and over-bank. As the mainspring unwinds, the torque stabilises to a steadily declining rate. But as the movement enters its last hours of power reserve, the torque from the barrel decreases considerably and more...

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Hands-On With The Versatile And Thoroughly Modern Charlie Paris Alliance Fratello
Jun 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Versatile And Thoroughly Modern Charlie Paris Alliance

Charlie Paris has been designing and assembling accessible watches since 2014. The Alliance line represents the French indie brand’s take on a go-anywhere, do-anything (GADA) model. I got a chance to go hands-on with the Charlie Paris Alliance in two versions. This is how we got along. The Charlie Paris Alliance features a sunburst dial. […] Visit Hands-On With The Versatile And Thoroughly Modern Charlie Paris Alliance to read the full article.

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