Hodinkee
Introducing: Fleming Returns With The Series 1 Mark II "Redwood" And "Pacific"
More than just new dials, the brand has gone the extra mile to envision a more cohesive design from front to back.
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Hodinkee
More than just new dials, the brand has gone the extra mile to envision a more cohesive design from front to back.
Worn & Wound
From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. During Henry VIII’s reign (1509–1547), portable watches as we know them today had yet to emerge in significant numbers. Timekeeping was dominated by grand and stationary mechanisms, with tower clocks or ornate table pieces, serving both practical and symbolic purposes as a show of wealth and status. Watches, if present at all, were nascent and extremely rare. The first clocks and watches were expensive luxuries and only in the reach of royalty and landed gentry. There was, however, a sufficient demand for these items in the Tudor royal court which spread to a prosperous London. The beginnings of the horological industry were probably first initiated by King Henry VIII. During this period there was somewhat of a technical revolution, starting with the invention of the printing press which changed the way people received information. This filtered through to the court where there was a revoluti...
Hodinkee
Two countries, one community came together to honor five decades of light-powered technology.
Time+Tide
The Fleming Series 1 Mark II Pacific has a tantalum case that to 2.5 years to develop, and a movement with 189 hand-finished interior angles.The post The new Fleming Series 1 Mark II Pacific is a tantalum-cased masterclass of hand-decoration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Bell & Ross released the BR-X3 Micro-Rotor of 2025, a more accessible version to the skeleton tourbillon released in 2025.
Fratello
That’s heavy sh*t, man. Two years ago, we had the chance to go hands-on with the Fleming Series 1 Launch Edition Tantalum. In that alloy, which is roughly twice as heavy as steel, the watch made a lasting impression. It was “heavy” in hippie-speak because of its refined case shape, intricate dial details, and remarkable […] Visit Hands-On With The Fleming Series 1 Mark II Redwood Watch - High-End Watch Evolution At Its Finest to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We’ve had these types of chats before, but it’s always nice to see what we’ve missed. You’ll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new […] Visit Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out to read the full article.
Fratello
Our times aren’t ideally characterized by the term “gentlemanliness.” It seems most of us are more concerned with fighting for what we think the world owes us than with standing for dignified, gentlemanly conduct. This week, I am proposing a return of the gentleman in us all. I secretly, subliminally started last week with the […] Visit Reawakening The Gentleman In Us: The New Tissot Gentleman 38mm to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year was Breguet’s 250th anniversary, and the brand treated us to many beautiful new watches to mark the occasion. However, it also made me think about how its new leadership would handle the regular collection of Breguet watches. We see the first results today, with the new Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037, a previously […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar jumps straight to the top of its offering, combining a high complication with Darkblast®.The post Gerald Charles proudly shows off the shaped calibre of the new Masterlink Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
“How can you make a watch, my dear boy?” His aunt, Jeanette Salomons, then under medical care in St. Leonards-on-Sea, wrote back to her nephew, David Lionel Salomons, in early March 1867, shortly before her death. He was 16, orphaned since his father Philip’s death earlier that year. His mother, Emma Abigail Montefiore, had died when he was eight. At the time, Salomons lived with his uncle, Sir David Salomons (1st Baronet), the Lord Mayor of London, at Great Cumberland Place, near Marble Arch, making frequent visits to a nearby watchmaker’s shop, where he learned to use a lathe and to file metal to tolerances measured in a fraction of an inch. Fifty years later, that teenage training would allow him to assemble the most comprehensive collection of Breguet watches in history. Broomhill Salomons inherited the expansive Broomhill estate in 1873 when he was 22. His uncle, the first Sir David Salomons, had died without children, and the baronetcy passed to his nephew along with the estate near Tunbridge Wells. The house stood on substantial grounds, and Salomons began altering it almost immediately. Broomhill from the south, a photograph by Sir David Lionel Salomons, 1868 (cropped). Album 19, Richard Levy Family Archive. Image – By permission of the Salomons Museum. He built workshops housing machine tools like lathes, drill presses, and milling equipment. Then came electrical apparatus. Then storage for chemicals and photographic equipment. By the 1890s, the workshop...
Fratello
A round case is hardly a radical idea in watchmaking. For Bianchet, though, it absolutely is. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the brand will present the UltraFino Rotondo, and while it clearly belongs to the same family as the watch we’ve previously known as the UltraFino, this isn’t just a simple reshaping exercise. It marks […] Visit Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Rotondo - The Brand’s First-Ever Round Watch to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to believe, but Holthinrichs celebrates their tenth anniversary this year. It was ten years ago when brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs was completing his graduation project in architecture, that soon-to-be client found him online and requested a watch commission for his upcoming wedding. The watch Michiel would make eventually became the first production Holthinrichs, the Ornament 1, and the brand was off to the races. That first watch was powered by a Peseux 7001, one of the most tried and true manually wound calibers ever made. It’s a true workhorse and has been adopted by brands large and small for years, and someday when the history of the microbrand is written, the Peseux 7001 will almost certainly have its own dedicated chapter. Its calling card, in addition to its slender profile which allows for great flexibility in design, is the placement of a small seconds hand at the 6:00 position, a design element that serves as the inspiration for the new Signature LAB 1.S, one of two limited editions launched this week to celebrate ten years of Holthinrichs Watches. The Signature LAB 1.S follows last year’s Ornament LAB 1.24, which remains one of the most exciting watches I’ve ever reviewed for the website. There are a lot of things about that watch that are special, but chief among them is the beautiful 3D printed titanium case. Holthinrichs has been a real leader in 3D printing within the watch industry over the last decade, and this case design refl...
Worn & Wound
At the risk of sounding jaded, it’s all too easy to split our attention these days; scrolling on our phone while watching YouTube, texting while walking, and jabbing at huge screens in the car while driving. But sometimes dividing your focus can lead to something new and daring-at least, that’s what British-American watch revivalists Dennison have done with their Dual Time collection. Built on the concept of splitting the dial in half horizontally, each Dual Time model shows two dials, each with their own set of hands. The result is striking, especially paired with the stone dials in vibrant colors that the ALD collection-of which the Dual Time is a subcollection-is known for. Now, for the first time ever, Dennison has added indices to their Dual Time design, with their new “Shades” models. Like other Dual Time models, the Shades variants present two faces. Here, they are split into two dial colors each, with a fluid finish that Dennison says is an “exploration of light, perception, and restraint”. Basically, as the watch is moved, light plays off the opposing faces and changes the shades of the dial. It’s an alluring visual and one that is furthered by subtle texturing and the clever “split” of the dials on each model, giving both faces a slightly different reaction to light in contrast to each other. Three colorways are available: green, blue, and brown, with varying highlights and shadows that appear and vanish as the watch is positioned diff...
Fratello
It is safe to say that the past 12 months have been all about the renaissance of the jump-hour watch. With the Cartier Tank à Guichets, Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour, Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V, Maen × Nico Leonard Jump Hour, and Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Pink Gold, we have seen […] Visit Celebrating The Spirit Of The 1920s With The Semicolon Anachron Jump-Hour Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
Guido Terreni, the CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier since 2021, has focused on developing the Tonda PF collection, a refined luxury sports watch characterised by understated elegance and fine craftsmanship. A sportier counterpart to the main Tonda PF line, the Tonda PF Sport was launched in 2023 with automatic and chronograph models on integrated rubber straps. With […]
Monochrome
GoS occupies a very special space on the independent watchmaking scene. The Swedish atelier is one of the very few to truly master Damascus steel, not just as a decorative element, but as a material explored from forging to finishing. From early creations to the original Vinternätter (Winter Nights) of 2013, and later evolutions and […]
Fratello
There’s a particular stillness that settles in just before a freedive. One last breath, a quiet pause, and then the surface tension breaks as you slip beneath the water. Along the Pacific coastline of Sydney, where rocky shelves drop quickly into deep green-blue water, that moment feels both calm and demanding. It’s in these conditions […] Visit Taking A 20-Year-Old IWC Aquatimer 2000 Into The Ocean to read the full article.
SJX Watches
At long last, Omega has unveiled the spiritual successor to the beloved ‘Pie Pan’ Constellation, complete with its signature domed dial, observatory medallion, and ‘dog leg’ lugs, the Constellation Observatory. First teased on the wrist of actor Delroy Lindo at the Academy Awards, the Observatory debuts in an expansive range of case materials and dial treatments. The collection also marks the commercial debut of Swatch Group’s Laboratoire de Précision, which has developed a new chronometer testing process capable of certifying two-handed watches. As a result, the Observatory carries the unexpected distinction of being the first Master Chronometer that displays only the hours and minutes. The Observatory in 18k Sedna gold, the brand’s trade name for its proprietary rose gold alloy. Initial thoughts The Observatory embodies Omega’s strengths, capitalising on the brand’s historical pedigree and proprietary materials and technologies, including its own durable alloys and the co-axial escapement. The Observatory in steel. On the other hand, the Observatory suffers somewhat on account of its thickness, relying on a movement platform developed at a time when the trend toward large watches appeared to have no end in sight. That said, the case design does a decent job of reducing the perceived thickness, and it looks and feels thinner than many other watches that share its dimensions on paper. It also demonstrates the immense capabilities of the broader Swatch Grou...
Teddy Baldassarre
Given the meteoric rise of the Tudor Black Bay, the lineup has more often been affiliated with the diving genre. That said, for a decade, the Black Bay has included pieces oriented for more everyday wearing circumstances, with dropping the external bezel and reducing the water resistance to 100m. These pieces, first d
Deployant
Independent watchmaking supremo Andreas Strehler releases a second collection to his accessible brand which he calls Strehler.
Monochrome
10 years ago, a young architect named Michiel Holthinrichs had the idea to create watches… But not like every other young indie watchmaker. What made it unique? The Ornament 1 was the world’s first 3D-printed stainless steel watch. And it certainly had a design of its own, inspired by Michiel’s previous career. The specially-commissioned watch […]
Monochrome
It’s often said that ultra-thin watchmaking should be considered a complication in itself, and there’s a lot of merit to that statement. Making a watch slimmer than, let’s say, a millimetre or six, seven, is a considerable challenge to overcome. Often, it demands a different philosophy as to how a watch and, even more so, […]
Time+Tide
With Watches and Wonders happening next month, participating (big box) brands have to wait before being able to release any novelties. However, the past seven days have been extremely busy for the independents and Swatch Group brands! We have Credor debuting a new ceramic dial time-only watch, Krayon playing on the Pac Man anniversary, and … ContinuedThe post New releases from Credor, Krayon, Nomos and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Until late summer 2025, watch enthusiasts lived in a universe where Singer Reimagined watches were reliably awe-inspiring in their complexity. The brand’s many takes on racing chronographs matched its close relationship with Singer Vehicle Design. And then, come September 2025, Singer dropped the time-only Caballero. Out went the complications and intricate dial layouts. In came […] Visit Introducing: The Singer Reimagined Caballero, Now Reimagined In Titanium to read the full article.
Fratello
When Porsche Design invited me to visit the opening of its new Timepieces Manufaktur, I was immediately intrigued. Having visited the relatively small old workshop in Solothurn before, a big new facility inevitably implies lofty ambitions. What is the German carmaker/Swiss watchmaker up to? As your intrepid reporter, I made it my mission to find […] Visit Visiting Porsche Design’s New Manufaktur And Discovering What It Means For The Brand’s Future to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Seamaster Chronograph Ok, got a great one to start this week, a gorgeous vintage Omega Seamaster chronograph. This one dates to 1968 from the serial number on the movement. It has a tonneau style steel case that is 38mm wide, and is unpolished with nice crisp edges and the original brushed finish. Even the caseback Hippocampus medallion looks sharp. The original high dome acrylic crystal is in good shape, can’t see any cracks although it could use a polish. It is signed on the underside with the Omega logo as it should be. The reverse-panda three register dial is black with white subdials, and it looks to be perfect and original. White stick hands with lume and an orange sweep chono hand with black subdial hands complete the look. The large winding crown is also signed. This gem is powered by the famous and robust Omega caliber 861 movement, the same one used in the second generation of Omega Speedmasters. The movement is clean and runs and works well per the seller. The watch comes on the original bracelet, signed and in great shape. This watch is fabulous, and rare to see at auction. View auction here Dot Matrix Seiko Digital Watch This one was too cool to pass up,...
Teddy Baldassarre
Before we get into my review of the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye, let's get some context about the brand out of the way. Oris traces its foundation to 1904, when two natives of the Swiss watchmaking town of Le Locle, Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, opened their watch factory in the German-speaking Swiss town of Hölstein. Cattin and Christian named their company “Oris” after the Orisbach tributary, a brook near the factory.A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly popular wristwatches, Oris enjoyed a long period of growth and expansion throughout the following decades and even made its own movements. Losing its independence during the consolidation years of the Quartz Crisis, Oris regained it in the 1980s, when a management buyout transformed the company and solidified its mission to make only mechanical watches going forward. Today, Oris is well established as a staple for value-conscious collectors of Swiss-made watches. While much of its modern output is devoted to sport-oriented timepieces, like the popular Aquis and Divers (formerly Divers Sixty-Five) diving watches, the brand’s most recognizable and emblematic collection is the Big Crown Pointer Date, which has been a mainstay of the brand’s portfolio - and in constant production - since 1938. It was the first watch with a date indication displayed via a central hand on an outer scale, and it took the other part of its model name from its signature design element - an oversiz...
Monochrome
The path of Felipe Pikullik has never been about sudden breakthroughs, but about steady, hands-on progression. Early pieces from his Berlin atelier were built on reworked Unitas movements, extensively modified, skeletonised and hand-finished to create something much more personal than their origins suggested. From the poetic Sternenhimmel to the more expressive ZBM1, and later regulator-style […]
SJX Watches
Berlin-based Felipe Pikullik presents his second in-house caliber inside the Sternenhimmel FPA1. The independent’s attempt at a refined workhorse-like movement comes in the form of the newly-developed caliber FPA1, designed to power a range of future creations. Initial thoughts Mr Pikullik’s emergence into the crowded independent watchmaking scene was based on heavily skeletonised off-the-shelf movements. As he gained a reputation for deft finishing and began to consolidate his workshop, he slowly but surely transitioned toward in-house engineering. Starting with his own complication modules, the German watchmaker’s first truly in-house effort came with last year’s Moonphase II collection, which saw the launch of the calibre FPMP2. The openworked construction featured a moon phase and 24-hour indicator but, while undoubtedly well-crafted, it arguably lacked a cohesive design language. Its distinctive architecture also made it unsuitable as the foundation for a wider range of pieces. In contrast, the updated Sternenhimmel (German for “starry sky”) features what the independent watchmaker describes as a cornerstone movement for future models. The FPA1 is consequently far more grounded and classical in construction, yet manages to avoid the trap of looking too much like any other artisanal time-only calibre. The ornate backside of the FPA1 caliber. This specific iteration of the Sternenhimmel design is decidedly more modern and technically-oriented, with a flo...
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